Dear Brooks:
Thank you for allaying my worries and all those wonderful
suggestions. I will definitely look into getting an O2 cylinder from the local
welding supplier.
Regards
Harsha Godavari
Brooks Bradley wrote:
> Dear Harsha,
> I do not know ----for sure---if there is a likely-hood
> for oil contamination during operation of the pump assembly. Most of these
> systems utilize an oil-less, sealed-bearing arrangement......however, until we
> disassemble one, I cannot say with confidence that this is the case.
> If I had need for such a system (especially an
> emergency) I would not allow my consternation regarding a possible hydrocarbon
> contamination to prevent utilizing the misted CS. This is, merely, an opinion
> and carries no additional assurance. In any event I suspect that it would
> require elevated temperatures to precipitate a major stress to the air
> pump----but I can offer no guarantee of such. If suffering from a major,
> active pathogen, your choice would become one of priorities..........pretty
> easy for
> me.
> Sincerely, Brooks
> Bradley.
> p.s. Regarding the Medical Grade oxygen. In spite of the fact you are lead
> to believe that Medical Grade oxygen is superior to that in a conventional
> Oyy/Acetylene system----such is not "actually" the case. The fact of the
> matter is that Medical Grade
> oxygen is processed and filled by the same equipment (is, in fact, the same 02
> supply).....the difference being----the 02 CONTAINER is tested for residual
> contamination to qualify as Medical Grade. This operation would carry much
> more validity---especially for us---if it were not for the fact that the
> over-whelming majority of all pathogenic forms are ANAEROBIC and are disabled
> in the presence of 02. Additionally, hydrocarbon agents such as oil or
> long-chain toxicants, polymers etc., are FUEL AGENTS......and if present would
> constitute an EXPLOSION hazard. Hence the great care---by
> the manufacturers----to keep such away from the 02 processing areas. What you
> are paying the exorbitant fee for MEDICAL GRADE is the TESTING of the
> container and the paper "guarantee" that such has been done.
> Sincerely, Brooks
> Bradley.
> harsha godavari wrote:
>
> > Brooks:
> > I have a query regarding this pump (and may be others of this
> > type). Is there any possible oil contamination from it? I understand that
> > oil could be a problem with tire inflators.
> >
> > I was going to use a small oxygen tank and discovered that I need to get a
> > medical prescription to rent one of those. I have one those tire inflators
> > sitting around, not being used !
> >
> > Regards
> > Harsha Godavari
> >
> > Brooks Bradley wrote:
> >
> > > During the past several days I have been
> > > having an off-list dialogue with another list member...relative to
> > > acquiring a smaller, less cumbersome unit that possessed some degree of
> > > portability. I imposed on one of our technicians to investigate.
> > > First, he tried to utilize several different aquarium pumps....none were
> > > effective due to excessively low output pressure. Next he investigated
> > > using the air discharge side of a high-quality vacuum pump. This was
> > > workable, but cost-prohibitive due to requiring a high-efficiency pump.
> > > Finally, through a serendipitous circumstance we chanced upon using a
> > > little 12 vdc air pump available at Harbor Freight, for about $11.00..
> > > It is manufactured by Campbell Hausfield and the stock number is #36688.
> > >
> > > The system is comprised of the 12 vdc tire inflation
> > > pump, one double gang aquarium air-control valve (Walmart 2..00), about
> > > 4' of silicone airline tubing from Walmart (#JM005..2.44 m size. Costs
> > > about .90 for an 8' package); a conventional air compressor gage...0 to
> > > 100 psi indicated; one 1/4" air brush coupler # P-1655 from Harbor
> > > Freight....cost about .99.
> > > Assembly procedure: Cut the 4' section of silicone
> > > tubing into two equal sections; connect one section to either of the
> > > output connections on the aquarium gang-valve; after screwing the
> > > airbrush coupler on the pressure gage, slip the remaining end of of the
> > > tubing coming from the gang-valve over the exposed end of the air brush
> > > coupler. Next open the remaining control valve on the gang-valve
> > > assembly to Full Open (fully counter-clockwise). Now connect the
> > > remaining (other) piece of silicone tubing to the single INLET
> > > connection to the gang-valve. Open the end-cover on the Air Pump and
> > > remove the little orange-colored nozzle adapter and screw it into the
> > > discharge-outlet of the Pump air hose....but only about 2 or 3
> > > threads----any more and you cannot move the locking handle sufficiently
> > > to unseat the discharge-line check valve (unless the check valve is
> > > unseated, insufficient pressure will be achieved). Next, connect the
> > > small end of the nozzle adapter well into the silicone tubing coming
> > > from the gang-valve INLET. At this time what you have is the Air Pump
> > > connected to the gang-valve; the gang-valve with one outlet valve
> > > connected to the Air Pressure Gage and the other outlet valve OPENED and
> > > vented to atmosphere.
> > > Operation: With the system connected as outlined above,
> > > connect the Air Pump to a 12 volt DC source (auto cigarette
> > > lighter is excellent, since the furnished power connection is a
> > > cigarette lighter probe). Any quality 12 volt battery charger may be
> > > used, but be sure to connect to the power leads correctly. The center
> > > contact on the cigarette lighter should be the (+) and the side-springs
> > > should be the (-). With the system running as described the Air
> > > Pressure Gage should be reading near Zero. Next, slowly close the
> > > gang-valve outlet control (the one you left FULLY OPEN to atmosphere)
> > > until pressure begins to indicate on the Gage; slowly continue closing
> > > until the indicated pressure is 25 psi. If one or both of the hoses
> > > blow off, just reinstall and push up snuggly. Friction pressure only
> > > should suffice for 25 psi----if not, use some small-gage copper wire (28
> > > gauge is fine) sections (about 1.5" length) and wrap them around each of
> > > the tubing connections and twist securely. CAUTION: This little pump
> > > can develop quite high pressures under "dead-head" conditions....so one
> > > should increase pressure slowly, unless you want to blow hoses
> > > everywhere. Once you have the system working at 25 psi you,
> > > essentially, have it calibrated for the specific valve settings and
> > > "theoretically" should be able to operate it without the pressure
> > > Gage----if you so choose (but I would not). If you choose to operate
> > > without the pressure gage, all you do is to disconnect the Air Pressure
> > > Gage and connect the air brush nebulizer inlet directly in place of the
> > > pressure gage. DO NOT CHANGE THE SETTING ON THE VALVE VENTING TO
> > > ATMOSPHERE. If you choose to keep the Air Pressure Gage in the circuit,
> > > obtain an "inline" Tee connection (compatible with the tubing
> > > size...Aquarium department, Walmart....about .80) Cut the main air
> > > supply hose going to the gang-valve and insert the "T" valve (one end of
> > > tubing from Air Pump and the other section going to the gang-valve
> > > INLET. Now, using a new section of tubing of desired length, connect
> > > one end to the remaining outlet of the "T" valve and the other to the
> > > Air Pressure Gage's Airbrush Adapter fitting. What you now have is the
> > > Air Pressure Gage sensing the input pressure to the gang-valve
> > > assembly....CONTINUALLY. One advantage to this set-up is that when you
> > > trigger the Airbrush Nebulizer, you can monitor the pressure drop. If
> > > the pressure drop falls below 20 psi when you trigger the
> > > airbrush.....just recalibrate your system to a higher initial pressure.
> > > I suggest 30 psi.
> > > Actually, the system is very simple to construct
> > > and I have endeavored to explain to the lowest common denominator of
> > > technical expertise. My goal is for the "unknowing" non-technical
> > > person to be able to assemble this little system.
> > > If you do not understand my feeble explanations,
> > > just email me and I will try to answer in a fashion acceptable to your
> > > comprehension.
> > > Our resident "tinkerer" has done quite well (I
> > > believe) in composing this simple address to the challenge for a very
> > > economical, somewhat portable, airbrush air-drive system.
> > > Sinerely, Brooks
> > > Bradley.
> > >
> > > --
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> > >
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