My air identical pump ($25, Wal-Mart) burned out after 15 min. continuous use. I've had better luck (on TIRES) with a $9 version from Family Dollar.
CAUTION: The obvious question regards the PURITY of the effluent air--does is contain oil vapor from lubricated O-rings (potentially injurious), or is there a dry diahpragm? (I'll dissect a similar unit that's in my defunct technology junkpile.) On the assumption that this caveat is affirmative, a cheaper alternative to O2 would be used scuba tanks, which are inexpensively charged air that's certified oil-free, breathable-quality, because of the pump type used. --Russ ----- Original Message ----- From: Brooks Bradley <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2002 9:05 PM Subject: CS>Airbrush Nebulizer Sys. Modification > During the past several days I have been > having an off-list dialogue with another list member...relative to > acquiring a smaller, less cumbersome unit that possessed some degree of > portability. I imposed on one of our technicians to investigate. > First, he tried to utilize several different aquarium pumps....none were > effective due to excessively low output pressure. Next he investigated > using the air discharge side of a high-quality vacuum pump. This was > workable, but cost-prohibitive due to requiring a high-efficiency pump. > Finally, through a serendipitous circumstance we chanced upon using a > little 12 vdc air pump available at Harbor Freight, for about $11.00.. > It is manufactured by Campbell Hausfield and the stock number is #36688. > > The system is comprised of the 12 vdc tire inflation > pump, one double gang aquarium air-control valve (Walmart 2..00), about > 4' of silicone airline tubing from Walmart (#JM005..2.44 m size. Costs > about .90 for an 8' package); a conventional air compressor gage...0 to > 100 psi indicated; one 1/4" air brush coupler # P-1655 from Harbor > Freight....cost about .99. > Assembly procedure: Cut the 4' section of silicone > tubing into two equal sections; connect one section to either of the > output connections on the aquarium gang-valve; after screwing the > airbrush coupler on the pressure gage, slip the remaining end of of the > tubing coming from the gang-valve over the exposed end of the air brush > coupler. Next open the remaining control valve on the gang-valve > assembly to Full Open (fully counter-clockwise). Now connect the > remaining (other) piece of silicone tubing to the single INLET > connection to the gang-valve. Open the end-cover on the Air Pump and > remove the little orange-colored nozzle adapter and screw it into the > discharge-outlet of the Pump air hose....but only about 2 or 3 > threads----any more and you cannot move the locking handle sufficiently > to unseat the discharge-line check valve (unless the check valve is > unseated, insufficient pressure will be achieved). Next, connect the > small end of the nozzle adapter well into the silicone tubing coming > from the gang-valve INLET. At this time what you have is the Air Pump > connected to the gang-valve; the gang-valve with one outlet valve > connected to the Air Pressure Gage and the other outlet valve OPENED and > vented to atmosphere. > Operation: With the system connected as outlined above, > connect the Air Pump to a 12 volt DC source (auto cigarette > lighter is excellent, since the furnished power connection is a > cigarette lighter probe). Any quality 12 volt battery charger may be > used, but be sure to connect to the power leads correctly. The center > contact on the cigarette lighter should be the (+) and the side-springs > should be the (-). With the system running as described the Air > Pressure Gage should be reading near Zero. Next, slowly close the > gang-valve outlet control (the one you left FULLY OPEN to atmosphere) > until pressure begins to indicate on the Gage; slowly continue closing > until the indicated pressure is 25 psi. If one or both of the hoses > blow off, just reinstall and push up snuggly. Friction pressure only > should suffice for 25 psi----if not, use some small-gage copper wire (28 > gauge is fine) sections (about 1.5" length) and wrap them around each of > the tubing connections and twist securely. CAUTION: This little pump > can develop quite high pressures under "dead-head" conditions....so one > should increase pressure slowly, unless you want to blow hoses > everywhere. Once you have the system working at 25 psi you, > essentially, have it calibrated for the specific valve settings and > "theoretically" should be able to operate it without the pressure > Gage----if you so choose (but I would not). If you choose to operate > without the pressure gage, all you do is to disconnect the Air Pressure > Gage and connect the air brush nebulizer inlet directly in place of the > pressure gage. DO NOT CHANGE THE SETTING ON THE VALVE VENTING TO > ATMOSPHERE. If you choose to keep the Air Pressure Gage in the circuit, > obtain an "inline" Tee connection (compatible with the tubing > size...Aquarium department, Walmart....about .80) Cut the main air > supply hose going to the gang-valve and insert the "T" valve (one end of > tubing from Air Pump and the other section going to the gang-valve > INLET. Now, using a new section of tubing of desired length, connect > one end to the remaining outlet of the "T" valve and the other to the > Air Pressure Gage's Airbrush Adapter fitting. What you now have is the > Air Pressure Gage sensing the input pressure to the gang-valve > assembly....CONTINUALLY. One advantage to this set-up is that when you > trigger the Airbrush Nebulizer, you can monitor the pressure drop. If > the pressure drop falls below 20 psi when you trigger the > airbrush.....just recalibrate your system to a higher initial pressure. > I suggest 30 psi. > Actually, the system is very simple to construct > and I have endeavored to explain to the lowest common denominator of > technical expertise. My goal is for the "unknowing" non-technical > person to be able to assemble this little system. > If you do not understand my feeble explanations, > just email me and I will try to answer in a fashion acceptable to your > comprehension. > Our resident "tinkerer" has done quite well (I > believe) in composing this simple address to the challenge for a very > economical, somewhat portable, airbrush air-drive system. > Sinerely, Brooks > Bradley. > > > -- > The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. > > To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: > [email protected] -or- [email protected] > with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line. > > To post, address your message to: [email protected] > Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html > List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]> > >
