NEVER EVER bond the shielding to the tower. You are just begging for
trouble, Lightning travels the path of least resistance from the ground
up. If it is the shielding on your cat5 cable, so be it. When you ground
it in several places you are creating a ground loop.  Oh and you can't
order them with male connector's they are made in china and you would
have to order like a 1000 of them to have special made. I like 3m tape
better. The hot-melt stuff is pretty cool. Also have seen people use
electrical silicone on the connections they say that it keeps the
gaskets from drying out and cracking. ... Jason

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:23 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware

A couple of suggestions to make things happier up on top of the
tower....
        1.    Use the Polyphaser that has a male on the equipment side
and
female on the antenna side and screw it directly on the SB AP.
        2.    Bond a good ground connection from the Polyphaser to the
tower
leg--#10 or larger wire--you can order a flat plate from Polyphaser that
attaches under the provided locknut to give you two screw holes to
attach a
double hole crimp lug to it.
        3.    Run DB style shielded Cat5 up the tower and bond the
shield to
the tower at the top, 150' down (middle) and at the bottom where it
leaves
the tower.
        4.    If you are using the maxrad 120* sectors, save yourself
some
grief and a.  Throw away the lousy tilt mounts they provide...they are
aluminum and to not stay in place....we picked up some stainless conduit
hangers and stainless 1/4-20 hex bolts and attached them directly to the
tower leg, using some spacers on the top hanger to get exactly the
correct
amount of downtilt we wanted.
        5.    Also, make sure you order them with a male N connector so
it
will attach directly to the female on the Polyphaser.
        6.    Lastly, seriously consider putting the antenna, Polyphaser
and
radio together on the ground--and using 3:1 DB shrink (the kind with hot
glue on the inside) to seal the antenna-to-polyphaser and
polyphaser-to-radio connections--you'll be glad you did.  Alernatively,
I
would rather use Scotch self-fusing rubber tape and Scotchkote than
rubber
tape.  When I use this technique I put 4-5 layers of rubber tape that
fuses
into a single piece, then three coats of Scotchkote---been doing this
over
30 years now and never had it leak.

JH

PS...you might want to search the archives for my treatese on proper
install
techniques.

PPS...YDI has a nice calculator for setting the downtilt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Haynes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:39 PM
Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware


> You will need 6 coaxial jumpers (one on each side of the polyphaser)
unless
> you use the Nfemale-Nmale protector. Add in 6 rolls of 3m 33
Electrical
tape
> ($2.50ea) as well as a can of 3m liquid electrical tape ($10-20).
Don't
> skimp on the weatherproofing! You will need an enclosure at the base
of
the
> tower (unless there is a building) to put the power supplies, router,
> powerShot, etc... .
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:33 AM
> To: Bill Flood
> Subject: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware
>
>
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Lancaster Networks wrote:
> > I need to provide them with a COMPLETE proposal of this whole thing,
> > and right now, this is what I am going to propose to them:
> >
> > (3) SmartBridges AirPoint Pro Outdoor  @ $330.00 ea = $990.00
> > (3) Maxrad 120 degree beamwidth antenna @ $407.52 ea = $1222.56
> > (3) LMR-400 4ft jumper coax cable @ $24.00 ea = $72.00
> > (3) Polyphaser 2.4ghz coaxial lightning protectors @ $35.66 ea =
> > $106.98
>
> Looks good.
>
> > Has anyone needed to use polyphasers? We use them as a standard
where
> > you have 100-300 foot hardline runs, but in this case, it's ethernet
> > cable. But I don't feel like climbing up the 300 foot tower to
replace
> > a blown radio either.
>
> Polyphasers rock. But you know this already. Put a Coax protector on
the N
> connector at the radio, and run your antennas pigtail off of that. Be
sure
> to ground the polyphaser well. The SmartBridges use a plastic case, so
you
> can't ground em. Once the ethernet comes inside, put a Polyphaser
IS-T1
> protector on the ethernet. They make a three port model, would be
perfect
> for you. Bear in mind you will need to protect the PoE seperately. The
IS-T1
> only protects two pairs. (Or 2 pairs X 3 ports on the IS-3T1)
>
> > This brings me to another point, are SB's products reliable enough
> > that I won't need to spend my entire life climbing the tower to fix
> > them or reflash them? them?
>
> There are no serial ports on the units, and you can reset the
configuration
> from the power injector, so I don't see why you would need to climb,
except
> to replace the entire radio. My APs are all Cisco or Trango, never
used
> SmartBridges anywhere other than a CPE. Not sure if I would trust
them.
>
> > I plan on mounting the antenna's with a bit of a downtilt, but all
at
> > the top of the 300' tower, because I am looking for long-range
> > performance. Any methods for calculating downtilt that work good?
I've
> > used my knowledge in the broadcast/radio industry to make my own
> > calculations, and with the use of ComStudy (an excellent program for
> > calculating RF propagation)
>
> YDI (www.ydi.com) has a number of javascript forms that will do all
the
> common calculations for you. Check em out.
>
> Jeremy
> (Fromer Lancasterite)
>
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