All of the comunications and rf cable that I have used, I have been told to
only ground it at one end. But, I have heard a lot of things in the past ;-)

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jerry Carter
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:29 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware


Hey John,
    One question, Do you ground the shielded ethernet at the top by the
radio or on the ground? I just installed a setup with it and grounded it at
the bottom (ground). Did I make a mistake?

Jerry

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hokenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:22 AM
Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware


> A couple of suggestions to make things happier up on top of the tower....
>         1.    Use the Polyphaser that has a male on the equipment side and
> female on the antenna side and screw it directly on the SB AP.
>         2.    Bond a good ground connection from the Polyphaser to the
tower
> leg--#10 or larger wire--you can order a flat plate from Polyphaser 
> that attaches under the provided locknut to give you two screw holes 
> to attach
a
> double hole crimp lug to it.
>         3.    Run DB style shielded Cat5 up the tower and bond the shield
to
> the tower at the top, 150' down (middle) and at the bottom where it 
> leaves the tower.
>         4.    If you are using the maxrad 120* sectors, save yourself some
> grief and a.  Throw away the lousy tilt mounts they provide...they are 
> aluminum and to not stay in place....we picked up some stainless 
> conduit hangers and stainless 1/4-20 hex bolts and attached them 
> directly to the tower leg, using some spacers on the top hanger to get 
> exactly the correct amount of downtilt we wanted.
>         5.    Also, make sure you order them with a male N connector so it
> will attach directly to the female on the Polyphaser.
>         6.    Lastly, seriously consider putting the antenna, Polyphaser
and
> radio together on the ground--and using 3:1 DB shrink (the kind with 
> hot glue on the inside) to seal the antenna-to-polyphaser and 
> polyphaser-to-radio connections--you'll be glad you did.  
> Alernatively, I would rather use Scotch self-fusing rubber tape and 
> Scotchkote than rubber tape.  When I use this technique I put 4-5 
> layers of rubber tape that
fuses
> into a single piece, then three coats of Scotchkote---been doing this 
> over 30 years now and never had it leak.
>
> JH
>
> PS...you might want to search the archives for my treatese on proper
install
> techniques.
>
> PPS...YDI has a nice calculator for setting the downtilt.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Haynes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:39 PM
> Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware
>
>
> > You will need 6 coaxial jumpers (one on each side of the polyphaser)
> unless
> > you use the Nfemale-Nmale protector. Add in 6 rolls of 3m 33 
> > Electrical
> tape
> > ($2.50ea) as well as a can of 3m liquid electrical tape ($10-20). 
> > Don't skimp on the weatherproofing! You will need an enclosure at 
> > the base of
> the
> > tower (unless there is a building) to put the power supplies, 
> > router, powerShot, etc... .
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:33 AM
> > To: Bill Flood
> > Subject: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Lancaster Networks wrote:
> > > I need to provide them with a COMPLETE proposal of this whole 
> > > thing, and right now, this is what I am going to propose to them:
> > >
> > > (3) SmartBridges AirPoint Pro Outdoor  @ $330.00 ea = $990.00
> > > (3) Maxrad 120 degree beamwidth antenna @ $407.52 ea = $1222.56
> > > (3) LMR-400 4ft jumper coax cable @ $24.00 ea = $72.00
> > > (3) Polyphaser 2.4ghz coaxial lightning protectors @ $35.66 ea = 
> > > $106.98
> >
> > Looks good.
> >
> > > Has anyone needed to use polyphasers? We use them as a standard 
> > > where you have 100-300 foot hardline runs, but in this case, it's 
> > > ethernet cable. But I don't feel like climbing up the 300 foot 
> > > tower to replace a blown radio either.
> >
> > Polyphasers rock. But you know this already. Put a Coax protector on 
> > the
N
> > connector at the radio, and run your antennas pigtail off of that. 
> > Be
sure
> > to ground the polyphaser well. The SmartBridges use a plastic case, 
> > so
you
> > can't ground em. Once the ethernet comes inside, put a Polyphaser 
> > IS-T1 protector on the ethernet. They make a three port model, would 
> > be
perfect
> > for you. Bear in mind you will need to protect the PoE seperately. 
> > The
> IS-T1
> > only protects two pairs. (Or 2 pairs X 3 ports on the IS-3T1)
> >
> > > This brings me to another point, are SB's products reliable enough 
> > > that I won't need to spend my entire life climbing the tower to 
> > > fix them or reflash them? them?
> >
> > There are no serial ports on the units, and you can reset the
> configuration
> > from the power injector, so I don't see why you would need to climb,
> except
> > to replace the entire radio. My APs are all Cisco or Trango, never 
> > used SmartBridges anywhere other than a CPE. Not sure if I would 
> > trust them.
> >
> > > I plan on mounting the antenna's with a bit of a downtilt, but all 
> > > at the top of the 300' tower, because I am looking for long-range 
> > > performance. Any methods for calculating downtilt that work good? 
> > > I've used my knowledge in the broadcast/radio industry to make my 
> > > own calculations, and with the use of ComStudy (an excellent 
> > > program for calculating RF propagation)
> >
> > YDI (www.ydi.com) has a number of javascript forms that will do all 
> > the common calculations for you. Check em out.
> >
> > Jeremy
> > (Fromer Lancasterite)
> >
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