We'll have to agree to disagree on the bonding. I tend to treat the cat5 aluminum jacket just as I would a chunk of heliax, and I DON'T want it acting as an antenna and coming much above ground. To each his own on that one I guess--been doing two-way stuff for about 30 years now and am set in my ways....
I guess he can do what I've been doing on the sectors, chop off the female connector and replace it with a male....then it can screw directly to the Polyphaser and eliminate the pigtail....works well for us anyway. JH ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jason Keller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 11:30 PM Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > NEVER EVER bond the shielding to the tower. You are just begging for > trouble, Lightning travels the path of least resistance from the ground > up. If it is the shielding on your cat5 cable, so be it. When you ground > it in several places you are creating a ground loop. Oh and you can't > order them with male connector's they are made in china and you would > have to order like a 1000 of them to have special made. I like 3m tape > better. The hot-melt stuff is pretty cool. Also have seen people use > electrical silicone on the connections they say that it keeps the > gaskets from drying out and cracking. ... Jason > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 1:23 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > A couple of suggestions to make things happier up on top of the > tower.... > 1. Use the Polyphaser that has a male on the equipment side > and > female on the antenna side and screw it directly on the SB AP. > 2. Bond a good ground connection from the Polyphaser to the > tower > leg--#10 or larger wire--you can order a flat plate from Polyphaser that > attaches under the provided locknut to give you two screw holes to > attach a > double hole crimp lug to it. > 3. Run DB style shielded Cat5 up the tower and bond the > shield to > the tower at the top, 150' down (middle) and at the bottom where it > leaves > the tower. > 4. If you are using the maxrad 120* sectors, save yourself > some > grief and a. Throw away the lousy tilt mounts they provide...they are > aluminum and to not stay in place....we picked up some stainless conduit > hangers and stainless 1/4-20 hex bolts and attached them directly to the > tower leg, using some spacers on the top hanger to get exactly the > correct > amount of downtilt we wanted. > 5. Also, make sure you order them with a male N connector so > it > will attach directly to the female on the Polyphaser. > 6. Lastly, seriously consider putting the antenna, Polyphaser > and > radio together on the ground--and using 3:1 DB shrink (the kind with hot > glue on the inside) to seal the antenna-to-polyphaser and > polyphaser-to-radio connections--you'll be glad you did. Alernatively, > I > would rather use Scotch self-fusing rubber tape and Scotchkote than > rubber > tape. When I use this technique I put 4-5 layers of rubber tape that > fuses > into a single piece, then three coats of Scotchkote---been doing this > over > 30 years now and never had it leak. > > JH > > PS...you might want to search the archives for my treatese on proper > install > techniques. > > PPS...YDI has a nice calculator for setting the downtilt. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tom Haynes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2003 10:39 PM > Subject: RE: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > > > You will need 6 coaxial jumpers (one on each side of the polyphaser) > unless > > you use the Nfemale-Nmale protector. Add in 6 rolls of 3m 33 > Electrical > tape > > ($2.50ea) as well as a can of 3m liquid electrical tape ($10-20). > Don't > > skimp on the weatherproofing! You will need an enclosure at the base > of > the > > tower (unless there is a building) to put the power supplies, router, > > powerShot, etc... . > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: Friday, July 18, 2003 12:33 AM > > To: Bill Flood > > Subject: Re[4]: [smartBridges] New Firmware > > > > > > On Fri, 18 Jul 2003, Lancaster Networks wrote: > > > I need to provide them with a COMPLETE proposal of this whole thing, > > > and right now, this is what I am going to propose to them: > > > > > > (3) SmartBridges AirPoint Pro Outdoor @ $330.00 ea = $990.00 > > > (3) Maxrad 120 degree beamwidth antenna @ $407.52 ea = $1222.56 > > > (3) LMR-400 4ft jumper coax cable @ $24.00 ea = $72.00 > > > (3) Polyphaser 2.4ghz coaxial lightning protectors @ $35.66 ea = > > > $106.98 > > > > Looks good. > > > > > Has anyone needed to use polyphasers? We use them as a standard > where > > > you have 100-300 foot hardline runs, but in this case, it's ethernet > > > cable. But I don't feel like climbing up the 300 foot tower to > replace > > > a blown radio either. > > > > Polyphasers rock. But you know this already. Put a Coax protector on > the N > > connector at the radio, and run your antennas pigtail off of that. Be > sure > > to ground the polyphaser well. The SmartBridges use a plastic case, so > you > > can't ground em. Once the ethernet comes inside, put a Polyphaser > IS-T1 > > protector on the ethernet. They make a three port model, would be > perfect > > for you. Bear in mind you will need to protect the PoE seperately. The > IS-T1 > > only protects two pairs. (Or 2 pairs X 3 ports on the IS-3T1) > > > > > This brings me to another point, are SB's products reliable enough > > > that I won't need to spend my entire life climbing the tower to fix > > > them or reflash them? them? > > > > There are no serial ports on the units, and you can reset the > configuration > > from the power injector, so I don't see why you would need to climb, > except > > to replace the entire radio. My APs are all Cisco or Trango, never > used > > SmartBridges anywhere other than a CPE. Not sure if I would trust > them. > > > > > I plan on mounting the antenna's with a bit of a downtilt, but all > at > > > the top of the 300' tower, because I am looking for long-range > > > performance. Any methods for calculating downtilt that work good? > I've > > > used my knowledge in the broadcast/radio industry to make my own > > > calculations, and with the use of ComStudy (an excellent program for > > > calculating RF propagation) > > > > YDI (www.ydi.com) has a number of javascript forms that will do all > the > > common calculations for you. Check em out. > > > > Jeremy > > (Fromer Lancasterite) > > > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe > > smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in > the > > body type unsubscribe smartBridges) > > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org > > > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe > smartBridges <yournickname> > > To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe > smartBridges) > > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe > smartBridges <yournickname> > To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe > smartBridges) > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org > > > The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List > To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> > To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) > Archives: http://archives.part-15.org The PART-15.ORG smartBridges Discussion List To Join: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type subscribe smartBridges <yournickname> To Remove: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (in the body type unsubscribe smartBridges) Archives: http://archives.part-15.org
