At 11:20 AM 2/9/2012, Bob Camp wrote:
Hi
I would avoid super heat type approaches. The risk is getting the glass to
metal seals on the base to hot to fast. Normally the can needs more heat
than the base, but not always. A lot depends on just how thick each one is
and what they are made of.
It's open!
Solder sucker didn't help. Solder wick and a hot iron got most of
the solder out, then I used the 140 W gun and a screwdriver to pop
the edges loose. Not easy for me at all.
Probing around, it looks like the signal is at the output cap, but
not at the output pin. The joints look a bit funky, so maybe I can
just retouch them and be done. We'll see.
Thanks a lot for the advice, ideas, and measurements.
--
newell N5TNL
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