VACList-Digest Friday, May 3, 2002 Issue 292
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
2. Re: Looking for vent cover
3. Re: Looking for vent cover
4. Re: Water Heater Removal
5. Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
6. Re: Water Heater Removal
7. Re: '76 Airstream Polish Job
8. Re: Aluminum Termination Cap
9. Re: trailer for sale
10. Re: Water Heater Removal
11. Re: Alclad
12. Re: Water Heater Removal
13. Univolt
14. Re: Univolt
15. New upholstery...
16. Re: Univolt
17. Re: Univolt
18. rodents
19. Re: Looking for vent cover
20. Re: Anyone able to specify what kind of glass to install in our 1958 18ft
Traveller?
21. Re: Alclad
22. To Webmaster
23. Re: Refrigerator Repair
24. Re: kind of glass to install in our 1958 18ft Traveller?
25. Re: Bowen cover
26. Re: Univolt
27. Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
28. Equalizer Hitch Identification
29. Re: Univolt
30. Re: Univolt
31. Re: Equalizer Hitch Identification
32. Re: Univolt
33. Airstream Book out of print
34. Thetford SlideOMatic
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 20:03:26 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
Go Nuts on the upolstery color and pattern. The rule on owning a
possibly valuable antique of any kind is do no irreversable damage.
Since recovering the sofa is reversible....
Daisy, who has imitation leather on her couch.
My Airstream wrote:
> I have to admit that some of the contemporary fabrics, especially the light
> southwestern colors have a real appeal for me. Would it hurt the value of
> the coach to go away from the stock upholstery? Suddenly I am getting
> excited to do drapes and couches. Oh well :)
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 20:07:23 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Looking for vent cover
Mine says ZipDee on it, as in the awning folks. They may have them for
sale.
Daisy '73 Ambassador
> Rick Langer wrote:
>
> I looking for a range hood exhaust fan vent cover for my '66
> GlobeTrotter. From searching the photo archives, it seems the same
> ones were used from '64 through at least the mid '70s. Does anyone
> have one or maybe know where I can get one?
> Thanks,
> Rick Langer
> WBCCI,VAC,TCT
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 20:08:02 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Looking for vent cover
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Rick, my replacement cover came from ZipDee. Hopefully, they still have =
them.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Rick Langer=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 10:27
Subject: [VAC] Looking for vent cover
I looking for a range hood exhaust fan vent cover for my '66 =
GlobeTrotter. From searching the photo archives, it seems the same ones =
were used from '64 through at least the mid '70s. Does anyone have one =
or maybe know where I can get one?
Thanks,
Rick Langer
WBCCI,VAC,TCT
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<BODY bgColor=3D#b8b8b8>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rick, my replacement cover came from =
ZipDee.=20
Hopefully, they still have them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Rick=20
Langer</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 02, 2002 =
10:27</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Looking for vent =
cover</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I looking for a range hood exhaust fan vent cover =
for my '66=20
GlobeTrotter. From searching the photo archives, it seems the same =
ones were=20
used from '64 through at least the mid '70s. Does anyone have one or =
maybe=20
know where I can get one?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rick Langer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT =
size=3D2>WBCCI,VAC,TCT</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:16:56 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Removal
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Tom, if the ' 69 Airstreams have the same Bowen water heater that was in =
my ' 68 model, it's a little tricky to get it out. Also, I don't think =
you will be able to repair the leak effectively unless you tank is =
different than the one I replaced. My suggestion is to replace the tank =
and avoid the problem for another 30 years. I believe someone posted the =
process for removing a water heater that is probably in the archives -- =
www.tompatterson.com. It may not have been a ' 69 model tank replacement =
though.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 14:43
Subject: [VAC] Water Heater Removal
Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lately about water =
heaters. I will be attempting to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. =
Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the =
leak. Are there any potential problems that I should be aware of when =
removing this water heater? Thanks in advance for any hints.=20
Tom Fairbank=20
1969 25 ft tradewind=20
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Tom, if the ' 69 Airstreams have the =
same Bowen=20
water heater that was in my ' 68 model, it's a little tricky to get it =
out.=20
Also, I don't think you will be able to repair the leak effectively =
unless you=20
tank is different than the one I replaced. My suggestion is to replace =
the tank=20
and avoid the problem for another 30 years. I believe someone posted the =
process=20
for removing a water heater that is probably in the archives -- <A=20
href=3D"http://www.tompatterson.com";>www.tompatterson.com</A>. It may =
not have=20
been a ' 69 model tank replacement though.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 02, 2002 =
14:43</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Water Heater =
Removal</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT size=3D2>Hello all: =
There has=20
been alot of discussion lately about water heaters. I will be =
attempting=20
to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It leaks =
from=20
somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the leak. Are there =
any=20
potential problems that I should be aware of when removing this water =
heater?=20
Thanks in advance for any hints. <BR>Tom Fairbank <BR>1969 25 ft=20
tradewind</FONT> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 19:37:23 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
Very good point Daisy. Re-upholstering is not like tearing out the galley
or other major surgery.
Thanks,
Bob
> Go Nuts on the upolstery color and pattern. The rule on owning a
> possibly valuable antique of any kind is do no irreversable damage.
> Since recovering the sofa is reversible....
>
> Daisy, who has imitation leather on her couch.
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 22:39:17 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Removal
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on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lately about water heaters. I
will be attempting to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It
leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the leak. Are there
any potential problems that I should be aware of when removing this water
heater? Thanks in advance for any hints.
Tom Fairbank
1969 25 ft tradewind
Tom,
Suggestion:
If the tank itself is leaking and not one of the fittings to it, then save
yourself a lot of headaches and replace the whole thing. Otherwise, you'll
be revisiting that job and it'll get old fast.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2">Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lat=
ely about water heaters. I will be attempting to remove mine this week=
end. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere inside and I am h=
oping to repair the leak. Are there any potential problems that I shou=
ld be aware of when removing this water heater? Thanks in advance for any hi=
nts. <BR>
Tom Fairbank <BR>
1969 25 ft tradewind</FONT> <BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
Tom, <BR>
<BR>
Suggestion:<BR>
<BR>
If the tank itself is leaking and not one of the fittings to it, then save =
yourself a lot of headaches and replace the whole thing. Otherwise, you'll b=
e revisiting that job and it'll get old fast. <BR>
<BR>
Terry<BR>
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
</BODY>
</HTML>
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Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 22:39:17 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '76 Airstream Polish Job
Hi Karl,
I read your note where you commented on taking off from all the hard work
of polishing. Suggestion:
Last year, when I needed the clearcoat removed from my peeling endcaps and
then repolished and clearcoated. I asked Joe Pershing at Oasis RV in Tucson
to do the hard work. His man did a fine job.
There is something to be said for someone else doing the hard work,
especially if your dermatologist is raising a caution flag.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 22:39:17 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Termination Cap
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on 05/01/02 1:23 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
We are looking for a replacement of the aluminum termination cap for the
dump valve, in our '64 GlobeTrotter. We have the original elbow for dumping,
but are missing the blank cap for driving. None of the standard fittings
we've tried fit at Camping World or the local RV Parts "junkyard"
fit...anybody have a spare they would be willing to part with? Or any other
suggestions?
Rob & Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter "Maxwell"
WBCCI #1824
Hi Rob,
Have you called all the Airstream dealers (www.airstream.com) with 800
numbers?
Terry
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on 05/01/02 1:23 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">We are looking for a replacem=
ent of the aluminum termination cap for the dump valve, in our '64 GlobeTrot=
ter. We have the original elbow for dumping, but are missing the blank cap f=
or driving. None of the standard fittings we've tried fit at Camping World o=
r the local RV Parts "junkyard" fit...anybody have a spare they wo=
uld be willing to part with? Or any other suggestions?<BR>
</FONT></FONT> <BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">Rob & Shari Davis<BR>
'64 GlobeTrotter "Maxwell"<BR>
WBCCI #1824<BR>
</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE> <BR>
Hi Rob,<BR>
<BR>
Have you called all the Airstream dealers (www.airstream.com) with 800 numb=
ers? <BR>
<BR>
Terry
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Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 02 May 2002 22:47:28 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: trailer for sale
Hey Airstreamers,
Here's another one for sale. If this sparks your interest, call the
telephone number in Pearl's note.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
---------
on 05/02/02 4:08 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Talked to friend this morning and his brother has his A/S for sale about 27'
> thinks it is a 69 - asking about $4000 - recently refurbished inside - I
> haven't seen it - they don't have e-mail - phone number is 909 658 2383
>
> Would you post it on the Vintage - since I am off it right now and leaving
> for Chicago on Sat morning for a couple of weeks?
>
> Wondering where you are? Have been off the net for 2 weeks down to the
> Colorado river and going off on trip now. The friend used to have A/S
> thought you might post it where needed. Pearl
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:57:31 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Removal
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Re: [VAC] Water Heater RemovalTerry,
I just removed the water heater from my '68 Ambassador (28'). Not a simple
chore. You have to gain access to the interior wall around the heater and
remove the rivits holding three aluminum panels that close the space between
the heater and the wall on the inside wall. Because of the design of the
heater, it had to be removed from the inside of the trailer. Physically
would not fit through the exterior opening. Concur with the other good
advice. Replace it now and save yourself a lot of trouble later. Much too
big a job to do over. The other problem I had was that the new heater was
taller, but narrower. Had to cut the opening larger, then had a shroud
fabricated to frame in the new heater. Overall it looks pretty good, but
you may want to shop a little more than I did to find a closer replacement.
I replaced the one in my '60 and it was virturally a one for one fit. Also
was much easier to remove as it just slipped out the opening.
Good Luck
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
Terry Tyler
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:39 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Heater Removal
on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lately about water heaters.
I will be attempting to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind)
It leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the leak. Are
there any potential problems that I should be aware of when removing this
water heater? Thanks in advance for any hints.
Tom Fairbank
1969 25 ft tradewind
Tom,
Suggestion:
If the tank itself is leaking and not one of the fittings to it, then save
yourself a lot of headaches and replace the whole thing. Otherwise, you'll
be revisiting that job and it'll get old fast.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [VAC] Water Heater Removal</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2715.400" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D447005003-03052002>Terry,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D447005003-03052002>I just=20
removed the water heater from my '68 Ambassador (28'). Not a =
simple=20
chore. You have to gain access to the interior wall around the =
heater and=20
remove the rivits holding three aluminum panels that close the space =
between the=20
heater and the wall on the inside wall. Because of the design of =
the=20
heater, it had to be removed from the inside of the trailer. =
Physically=20
would not fit through the exterior opening. Concur with the other =
good=20
advice. Replace it now and save yourself a lot of trouble =
later. =20
Much too big a job to do over. The other problem I had was =
that the=20
new heater was taller, but narrower. Had to cut the opening =
larger, then=20
had a shroud fabricated to frame in the new heater. Overall it=20
looks pretty good, but you may want to shop a little more than I =
did to=20
find a closer replacement. I replaced the one in my '60 and =
it was=20
virturally a one for one fit. Also was much easier to remove as it =
just=20
slipped out the opening. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D447005003-03052002>Good=20
Luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D447005003-03052002>Pete </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Terry =
Tyler<BR><B>Sent:</B>=20
Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:39 PM<BR><B>To:</B> Multiple recipients of=20
VACList<BR><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Water Heater=20
Removal<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
wrote:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=3D2>Hello all: There has been alot of =
discussion lately=20
about water heaters. I will be attempting to remove mine this =
weekend.=20
(1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere inside and I =
am hoping=20
to repair the leak. Are there any potential problems that I =
should be=20
aware of when removing this water heater? Thanks in advance for any =
hints.=20
<BR>Tom Fairbank <BR>1969 25 ft tradewind</FONT> =
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Tom,=20
<BR><BR>Suggestion:<BR><BR>If the tank itself is leaking and not one =
of the=20
fittings to it, then save yourself a lot of headaches and replace the =
whole=20
thing. Otherwise, you'll be revisiting that job and it'll get old =
fast.=20
<BR><BR>Terry<BR>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] =
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:21:57 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alclad
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Bob. 2024T3 was used from day one, to 1982 1/2. Andy
Thanks for the tip Andy. My coach is going to be overhauled with HUD grant
from the City of Oceanside, but I have to do all the sourcing for the
contractor. Will be needing a replacement fan for the bathroom vent, I have
two handles but only one stock cylinder. Am trying to find a second stock
cylinder but (if no luck) will order a couple of the Hehr unit that you
built.
Also would like to replace all the light covers. Do you think your
aftermarket light covers will burn up like the originals? Or has plastic
come along over the years. I love what you guys are doing for the VAC
owners. Great catalog. Hope there is more to come.
Bob
66 Safari in Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 21:26:21 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Removal
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Re: [VAC] Water Heater RemovalSomebody ought to slice one of these old =
water heaters in half and then post a pic. It must be something to see =
how mere minerals can stuff up a 10 gallon space. I couldn't believe it =
when I drilled through the outlet. The stuff if like Kevlar :(
Bob
66 Safari in Oceanside
About to let the pros change out my heater
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Pete Ryner=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:57 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Heater Removal
Terry,
I just removed the water heater from my '68 Ambassador (28'). Not a =
simple chore. You have to gain access to the interior wall around the =
heater and remove the rivits holding three aluminum panels that close =
the space between the heater and the wall on the inside wall. Because =
of the design of the heater, it had to be removed from the inside of the =
trailer. Physically would not fit through the exterior opening. Concur =
with the other good advice. Replace it now and save yourself a lot of =
trouble later. Much too big a job to do over. The other problem I had =
was that the new heater was taller, but narrower. Had to cut the =
opening larger, then had a shroud fabricated to frame in the new heater. =
Overall it looks pretty good, but you may want to shop a little more =
than I did to find a closer replacement. I replaced the one in my '60 =
and it was virturally a one for one fit. Also was much easier to remove =
as it just slipped out the opening. =20
Good Luck
Pete =20
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf =
Of Terry Tyler
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:39 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Heater Removal
on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lately about water =
heaters. I will be attempting to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. =
Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the =
leak. Are there any potential problems that I should be aware of when =
removing this water heater? Thanks in advance for any hints.=20
Tom Fairbank=20
1969 25 ft tradewind=20
Tom,=20
Suggestion:
If the tank itself is leaking and not one of the fittings to it, =
then save yourself a lot of headaches and replace the whole thing. =
Otherwise, you'll be revisiting that job and it'll get old fast.=20
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [VAC] Water Heater Removal</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>Somebody ought to slice one =
of these old=20
water heaters in half and then post a pic. It must be something to =
see how=20
mere minerals can stuff up a 10 gallon space. I couldn't believe =
it when I=20
drilled through the outlet. The stuff if like Kevlar=20
:(</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>Bob</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>66 Safari in=20
Oceanside</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>About to let the pros change =
out my=20
heater</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Pete=20
Ryner</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 02, 2002 =
8:57=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Water Heater =
Removal</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D447005003-03052002>Terry,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D447005003-03052002>I=20
just removed the water heater from my '68 Ambassador (28'). Not =
a simple=20
chore. You have to gain access to the interior wall around the =
heater=20
and remove the rivits holding three aluminum panels that close the =
space=20
between the heater and the wall on the inside wall. Because of =
the=20
design of the heater, it had to be removed from the inside of the=20
trailer. Physically would not fit through the exterior =
opening. =20
Concur with the other good advice. Replace it now and save =
yourself a=20
lot of trouble later. Much too big a job to do over. The =
other=20
problem I had was that the new heater was taller, but =
narrower. Had=20
to cut the opening larger, then had a shroud fabricated to frame in =
the new=20
heater. Overall it looks pretty good, but you may want to =
shop a=20
little more than I did to find a closer replacement. =
I replaced the=20
one in my '60 and it was virturally a one for one fit. Also was =
much=20
easier to remove as it just slipped out the=20
opening. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D447005003-03052002>Good=20
Luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D447005003-03052002>Pete </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Terry=20
Tyler<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:39 PM<BR><B>To:</B> =
Multiple=20
recipients of VACList<BR><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Water Heater=20
Removal<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
wrote:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=3D2>Hello all: There has been alot of =
discussion=20
lately about water heaters. I will be attempting to remove =
mine this=20
weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere =
inside and=20
I am hoping to repair the leak. Are there any potential =
problems=20
that I should be aware of when removing this water heater? Thanks =
in=20
advance for any hints. <BR>Tom Fairbank <BR>1969 25 ft =
tradewind</FONT>=20
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Tom, <BR><BR>Suggestion:<BR><BR>If the tank =
itself is=20
leaking and not one of the fittings to it, then save yourself a lot =
of=20
headaches and replace the whole thing. Otherwise, you'll be =
revisiting that=20
job and it'll get old fast. =
<BR><BR>Terry<BR>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01C1F220.01798160--
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 22:16:28 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Univolt
I am finally prioritizing the removal of my Univolt system. It likes to fry
batteries. We all know this. But I couldn't help but read up on the unit
in the Airstream manual. It says that it will not overcharge your battery.
Since it obviously does, they must be referring to charging from the pullers
alternator . . . or are they?
I have seen some multi-stage chargers in the $200-$300 range. Will they
handle both AC charging and DC through the vehicle alternator without frying
the battery. Anybody have good experiences with any low priced multi-stage
chargers? My coach stays in one park pretty much all the time so AC is the
biggest problem.
Bob
66 Safari in Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 2 May 2002 22:36:44 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Intelipower. That's the only thing to replace a Univolt with, and they are
on sale right now at Camping World.
The flyer I received today shows it at $179.10 for members, good through
5/21. Then there is a $15.00 coupon on the last page.
My local store usually has the flyers available there, for those who don't
get it in the mail.
Be sure and get the Charge Wizard as well.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 00:49:38 -0600
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: New upholstery...
Bob ~
I agree with Daisy...the upholstery can always be changed out later. We
just finished our side gaucho with a "retro-funky fabric" that alot of folks
may think is gross...but we love it! The upholstery is what makes each
trailer unique and reflect the owner's own style & personality. Unless you
have a "concourse, showroom-perfect, never been on the road" trailer...have
some fun!
Check out www.insideout-design.net/maxwell/during/cushions/sofa.jpg if you
want to see our wacky fabric ~
Shari Davis
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 00:31:38 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Roger
I'm going to high tail it up to San Marcos Camping World. Will the
Intelipower handle both AC & DC charging? (the full range of service that
Univolt was supposed to do)
BTW . . . whats the Charge Wizard for?
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Intelipower. That's the only thing to replace a Univolt with, and they
are
> on sale right now at Camping World. The flyer I received today shows it at
$179.10 for members, good through 5/21. Then there is a $15.00 coupon on
the last page.
>
> My local store usually has the flyers available there, for those who don't
> get it in the mail. Be sure and get the Charge Wizard as well.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 08:33:57 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Bob,
The Inteli-Power will do exactly what you want; the Charge Wizard
turns it into a "smart charger" that:
Charges the battery rapidly when it's low
Won't overcharge it when you're connected to shore power for long periods.
<<Jim>>
My Airstream wrote:
> I am finally prioritizing the removal of my Univolt system. It likes to fry
> batteries. We all know this. But I couldn't help but read up on the unit
> in the Airstream manual. It says that it will not overcharge your battery.
> Since it obviously does, they must be referring to charging from the pullers
> alternator . . . or are they?
>
> I have seen some multi-stage chargers in the $200-$300 range. Will they
> handle both AC charging and DC through the vehicle alternator without frying
> the battery. Anybody have good experiences with any low priced multi-stage
> chargers? My coach stays in one park pretty much all the time so AC is the
> biggest problem.
>
> Bob
> 66 Safari in Oceanside
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 08:56:35 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: rodents
Eric wrote:
>
> I am beginning to restore a 61 Bambi. I have heard there is a problem =
> with rodents getting between the skins or between the floor and the =
> bellypan. Do I need to remove the inside skins and bellypan? If I do, =
> can similar ribbets be used to put the skins back? Is there a suitable =
> replacement for the insulation? Any other tips from someone who =
> restored a early 60s Airstream? Eric, #2235
I recently removed the lower front inside panel on my '62 Bambi. The area
between the walls was clean and rodent free. The insulation was dry and
nice. I would not remove the inside skin just to look for infestation as
the walls seem very secure. I am going to do a little re-wiring and taking
out thisThe area between the belly pan and the floor is another story.
There is every indication that little acorn loving critters have spent quite
a bit of time in there.
I believe the inside rivets are just plain old 1/8 inch aluminum pop rivets
available at your local hardware store. They all have the little dimple in
the middle which makes drilling them out very easy. Be sure you get all
aluminum. Some people use Olympic rivets and a rivet shaver inside and out.
these are available at Inland RV, Airstream Dreams and probably other
places. Since I do not plan to remove any more inside panels I am planning
to use pop rivets to match what I took out. I also bought some Cleco clamps
from Aircraft Spruce to help with re-assembly. Probably not absolutely
necessary but should help to get things lined up.
Unless someone convinces me otherwise I don't think I will replace the
insulation I take out of the floor. I don't anticipate any seriously cold
weather camping and the insulation seems to hold all manner of bad stuff
like moisture, odors, rodents and their residue. I think it also
contributes to floor rot and frame rusting. Since heat rises I don't think
the uninsulated floor will be a big problem on moderately cold days. I will
re-use the insulation from the wall which seems much more important. I'm
sure there is an acceptable replacement insulation out there but I have not
checked into it.
I would welcome any comments from the more experienced members of the group,
particularly if anything I have said is controversial or plain old wrong.
Good luck with your Bambi Eric.
Dick
1962 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 10:12:51 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Looking for vent cover
Jim Greene. Zip Dee does not have the covers. We tried to buy the molds, so
that we could continue the availability. They have chosen to discard the
mold. Therefore, we had a mold created that allows us to make them out of
fiberglas. When the part is cured, we then paint it metallic silver, and then
clear coat it with polyurethane. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 10:07:00 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Anyone able to specify what kind of glass to install in our 1958 18ft
Traveller?
Will,
I believe that what was used in '58 was double strength glass. Last time we
replaced some in our '60 we just went to the local hardware store.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Henshall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 12:11 AM
Subject: [VAC] Anyone able to specify what kind of glass to install in our
1958 18ft Traveller?
> Hi everyone,
>
> We have enjoyed reading this informational and entertaining list. Time to
> jump in with a question..<grin>
>
> We are replacing all the windows in our new project, a 1958 18ft
Traveller.
>
> Any recommendations as to the kind of glass to use?
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 10:39:37 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Alclad
I realize that this is not the best solution to the white hot water heater
doors, but I have found that a coat of Rust-oleum in the aluminum color to
be a tolerable solution. I have used it for years on the frame and steel
propane tanks, so I am not adding another color to the trailer. It does not
match a highly polished trailer, but does OK for a moderately polished one.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Norgaard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 12:21 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Alclad
> Hi Dick,
> I've got a similar problem with the water heater cover. My Trade Wind had
a
> 110 volt only, no propane, water heater. I put in a new 10 gallon, 2-way
> Suburban. The only choices for covers was either white or colonial white.
> I'm thinking of having it chromed. Once the trailer's polished, should
match
> quite well.
>
> Brad Norgaard
> '59 Trade Wind
> Phoenix
> #2699, VAC, TCT
>
>
> >
> > On a related topic, when replacing the original water heater is there a
> > preferred way of dealing with the old vent? My understanding is that
the
> > new Suburban and Atwood water heaters have covers available but they do
not
> > have Airstream (alclad) covers available. Is this true or am I just
looking
> > in the wrong place? Is it preferable to salvage the old Bowen cover and
> > retrofit it to the new heater? Mine is less than perfect.
> >
> > Thanks for your help.
> >
> > Dick
> > 1962 Bambi
>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 03 May 2002 09:40:41 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: To Webmaster
Webmaster:
On the following digest I received only topics 1 through 4. I would
appreciate it if you would re-send. Thanks,
Dick
VACList-Digest Thursday, May 2, 2002 Issue 291
Today's Topics:
1. Alclad
2. Re: '76 Airstream Polish Job
3. 61 Bambi Restoration
4. 1964 Dump Cap
5. For Sale Today
6. Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
7. Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
8. Aluminum Termination Cap
9. Re: Alclad
10. Re: Aluminum Termination Cap
11. Re: Alclad
12. Looking for vent cover
13. Re: Alclad
14. Re: Alclad
15. Water Heater Removal
16. Re: Water Heater Removal
17. Solardome replacement
18. Re: Alclad
19. Re: Solardome Replacement
20. Re: Alclad
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 08:27:28 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Refrigerator Repair
I concur with Chris, the appliance parts store here in town has generic
flange mount, push-on and adhesive mount refrigerator door gaskets by
the foot that can adapt to almost all the Dometic, marvel, Kreft &
Servel doors.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 4:07 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Refrigerator Repair
>
>
> A warning- Dometic gaskets are expensive (probably over $100
> for the set)- you might measure and try a place that sells appliance
> repair parts to see if you can get a generic replacement.
> Chris Bryant
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 08:32:52 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: kind of glass to install in our 1958 18ft Traveller?
The original was single strength (3/32") glass.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 30, 2002 9:12 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Anyone able to specify what kind of glass to install in
> our 1958 18ft Traveller?
>
> Hi everyone,
> We have enjoyed reading this informational and entertaining
> list. Time to
> jump in with a question..<grin>
> We are replacing all the windows in our new project, a 1958
> 18ft Traveller.
> Any recommendations as to the kind of glass to use?
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 08:58:13 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Bowen cover
There are postings in the archives from those who have replaced their
HW Heater and reframed the opening and reinstalled the old cover. Long
story short, at all cost, reinstall the old exterior shroud over the
modified opening. The archives are also full of postings from those
who lament installing the flimsy new door,.
I've been collecting exterior shots of the 3 major styles of Bowen
covers and will add them to my personal site to aid in the manufacture
of replacements as a Restoration Topic. Will notify the List when it is
ready.
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 6:02 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Alclad
>
>> On a related topic, when replacing the original water heater
> is there a
> preferred way of dealing with the old vent? My understanding
> is that the
> new Suburban and Atwood water heaters have covers available
> but they do not
> have Airstream (alclad) covers available. Is this true or am
> I just looking
> in the wrong place? Is it preferable to salvage the old
> Bowen cover and
> retrofit it to the new heater? Mine is less than perfect.
> Thanks for your help.
> Dick
> 1962 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 08:57:21 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Bob,
I'm not sure what you mean by AC & DC charging. The converter is designed
to convert AC to DC and pump it into the battery. If you are hitched up and
plugged in to the puller's electrical system, there is a direct DC
connection that provides limited charging to the battery.
AFIK there is no DC charging capability in any converter..."converter" means
it converts AC to DC.
The Inteli-Power does that conversion more efficiently than the Uni, and is
much quieter. The Charge Wizard is a plug-in that controls the
Inteli-Power. It will monitor the state of the battery and switch the
Inteli-Power to the appropriate output. It's inexpensive (less than $30 I
think) and well worth it. It also provides a visual means of indicating the
battery state.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 09:01:15 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
That is an excellent price, and worth the wait. 2 months will fly by..
RJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 9:50 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Help with new upholstery (how to?)
>
> I found a person who does upholstery out of their house.
> They have been in
> the business for about 20 years, and doing it as private
> business for the
> last 10.
>
> They gave me an estimate of $250 labor, and $10/yd (need 19
> yds). So its
> going to be around $450 which is a far cry from my original
> quote of $977.
> The only catch is I have to wait two months because she is so booked!
> -Tim
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 09:10:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Johm O'Cain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Equalizer Hitch Identification
Is there anyone out there that has any knowledge of
equalizer hitches?
I am "researching", to buy, a 1957 (I think) Airstream
trailer.
I haven't been able to identify the Equalizer hitch!
Is there an expert out there somewhere. Or, for that
matter, anyone that would like to "try his/her hand at
identifying it for me? I have photographs that I can
email.
J O H N
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 14:14:58 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Univolt
--part1_11a.10625133.2a042da2_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
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In a message dated 5/3/02 12:04:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> The Charge Wizard is a plug-in that controls the
> Inteli-Power. It will monitor the state of the battery and switch the
> Inteli-Power to the appropriate output. It's inexpensive (less than $30 I
> think) and well worth it. It also provides a visual means of indicating
> the
> battery state.
>
>
My '77 Excella has two batteries. Will I require two Charge Wizards running
off of one Intelli-Power unit, or is that not a possibility? Will one Charge
Wizard serve for a two battery system?
Thanks,
John
--part1_11a.10625133.2a042da2_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial"
LANG="0">In a message dated 5/3/02 12:04:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">The Charge Wizard is a plug-in that controls
the<BR>
Inteli-Power. It will monitor the state of the battery and switch the<BR>
Inteli-Power to the appropriate output. It's inexpensive (less than $30 I<BR>
think) and well worth it. It also provides a visual means of indicating the<BR>
battery state.<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
My '77 Excella has two batteries. Will I require two Charge Wizards running off
of one Intelli-Power unit, or is that not a possibility? Will one Charge Wizard
serve for a two battery system?<BR>
<BR>
Thanks,<BR>
John</FONT></HTML>
--part1_11a.10625133.2a042da2_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 11:39:53 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
John,
The Charge Wizard plugs into a port on the Inteli-Power, so it can control
whatever the Inteli-Power is attached to.
According to the manual, the I-P can handle multiple batteries, even those
of different capacities.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 11:50:56 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Equalizer Hitch Identification
I'll bet it's a Reese but please send a picture.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johm O'Cain" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 9:10 AM
Subject: [VAC] Equalizer Hitch Identification
> Is there anyone out there that has any knowledge of
> equalizer hitches?
> I am "researching", to buy, a 1957 (I think) Airstream
> trailer.
> I haven't been able to identify the Equalizer hitch!
> Is there an expert out there somewhere. Or, for that
> matter, anyone that would like to "try his/her hand at
> identifying it for me? I have photographs that I can
> email.
> J O H N
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 12:03:48 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Thanks Roger,
The Airstream Manual for my 66 Safari, says the following about Univolt
charging. "The UNI-VOLT incorporates a unique voltage sensing section in
the charger circuit that automatically controls charging current. When the
battery is fully charged, shut-off is compete; it is impossible to
overcharge."
I say bull pucky and I know a lot of people who will corroborate my
experience. If what Airstream said in the manual were true than I shouldn't
be on my second new battery in two years. I'm itchin for the state-of
the-art.
Bob
Oceanside, CA
PS: Roger, I now understand that DC charging from the puller is direct.
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 16:02:23 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Airstream Book out of print
I just received my First Edition copy of the out of print Landau R/Phillippi
J Airstream book from Airstream for only $10.00. Lots better than paying big
bucks on ebay or Amazon. Also ordered a couple of other items and it all was
ordered and received in less than a week.
KPrice
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 13:27:42 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Thetford SlideOMatic
Thetford's Slide-O-Matic is the stock unit in my 66 Safari. It was working
perfectly until I returned from my winter trip to Mexico. The trailer
stayed here in the park with the water turned off.
Too much has already been written about the maladies that occurred to my
Bowen 9 gallon H20 heater during this period. It is scheduled for
replacement soon.
Now the the Thetford is on the slipper Slide-O-Matic into oblivion. The
felt gasket that used to seal the bowl is falling apart. The linkage
doesn't seem to fully close when I take my foot off the pedal and there
appears to be a leak coming from the pipes under the Thetford "Aqua Magic"
box which sits behind the toilet seat. Something has to be done soon or the
base floor will get rotten.
Funny as it seems i liked the old Slide-O-Matic. It was simple, clean and
easy to use. Is repair a feasibility or is replacement the only way to go.
If I have to replace, which is the most compatible unit.
Sorry for the sudden onslaught of questions. I usually get the jobs done
and then crawl back in my hole :)
Bob
66 Safari under seige
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 10:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Univolt
> Intelipower. That's the only thing to replace a Univolt with, and they
are
> on sale right now at Camping World.
>
> The flyer I received today shows it at $179.10 for members, good through
> 5/21. Then there is a $15.00 coupon on the last page.
>
> My local store usually has the flyers available there, for those who don't
> get it in the mail.
>
> Be sure and get the Charge Wizard as well.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Hightower, N7KT
> WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
> 1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
> Mesa, AZ
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
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