VACList-Digest Saturday, May 4, 2002 Issue 293
Today's Topics:
1. Inspection help
2. Re: Univolt
3. Re: Univolt
4. Re:
5. Re: Hot Water Tank
6. Re: Univolt
7. Re: Univolt
8. looking to improve lighting
9. Re: Univolt
10. Re: Window Needed
11. Re: Water Heater Removal
12. Re: Hot Water Tank
13. Re: Hot Water Tank
14. Re: Univolt
15. Stuff for sale
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 17:20:28 -0700
From: "Alec Fisken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Inspection help
There's a 1973 Airstream trailer for sale in Southern Oregon that I really
want to see, but I can't make it down there any time soon. Is there anyone
in the Ashland to Medford area who would like to check it out for me, and
make a few bucks in the process? Please contact me off list if you are
interested. Thanks!
Kathy Fisken, Seattle WA
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 17:32:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gregory Paulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
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According to the instruction sheet, the Magnatek TU550 that Airstream use now, and has
for a few years, has the ability to read the battery and supply a charging current
applicable to the battery condition, up to the full converter output. What more could
Greg Paulsen
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
--0-1433094406-1020472358=:99614
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
<P>According to the instruction sheet, the Magnatek TU550 that Airstream use now, and
has for a few years, has the ability to read the battery and supply a charging current
applicable to the battery condition, up to the full converter output. What more
co<P>Greg Paulsen</P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="http://rd.yahoo.com/welcome/*http://health.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! Health</a> -
your guide to health and wellness
--0-1433094406-1020472358=:99614--
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 18:17:58 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
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Dear Greg,
Are you suggesting that I buy a Magnatek TU550 instead of the =
Intellipower with Charge Wizard? Wonder how much they cost?
Bob
66 Safari
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Gregory Paulsen=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 5:32 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Univolt
According to the instruction sheet, the Magnatek TU550 that Airstream =
use now, and has for a few years, has the ability to read the battery =
and supply a charging current applicable to the battery condition, up to =
the full converter output. What more could you ask for?
Greg Paulsen
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>Dear =
Greg,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2> Are you =
suggesting=20
that I buy a Magnatek TU550 instead of the Intellipower with Charge=20
Wizard? Wonder how much they cost?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>Bob</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>66 =
Safari</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=3DCourier size=3D2>Oceanside, =
CA</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Gregory=20
Paulsen</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, May 03, 2002 5:32 =
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: =
Univolt</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P>According to the instruction sheet, the Magnatek TU550 that =
Airstream use=20
now, and has for a few years, has the ability to read the battery and =
supply a=20
charging current applicable to the battery condition, up to the full =
converter=20
output. What more could you ask for?</P>
<P>Greg Paulsen</P>
<P><BR>
<HR SIZE=3D1>
<B>Do You Yahoo!?</B><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://rd.yahoo.com/welcome/*http://health.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! =
Health</A>=20
- your guide to health and wellness</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C1F2CE.DA9272A0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 17:34:44 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Terry,
I imagine that the main reasons for the weight difference is in two areas.
First being the frame, second the number of items included in the newer
trailer. Even so it sounds to me like you are comparing an empty weight on
the '61 to a maximum loaded weight on the '71.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Rockfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2002 3:01 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re:
The 1971 is in
> much better shape. but the gross weight
> on the 61 is approx. 3400 lb. and the 71 is 6000 + lb. is that due to the
> aluminum panels being different ?
>
> Terry A. Rockfield http://www.qsl.net/kc8kof/
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 00:37:35 -0400
From: Patricia Raimondo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hot Water Tank
Here, here. I vote with the removal of the Bowen and install the Atwood!
It was painless and works great. Heats 6 gallons in record time. Why
bother with trying to repair the old ? Go with the inevitable, replace!
Patti
67 Safari (for the moment)
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 21:57:25 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
The Magnatek is more expensive than the Inteli-Power. It doesn't have
anything like the Charge Wizard that will give a visual indication of what
it's doing.
I think that being able to see what's going on is the big plus here.
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 23:31:28 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
I think so too. Charge Wizards may be to battery charging what install
Wizards are to windows. They make life a lot simpler for the simple minded
like me.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Univolt
> The Magnatek is more expensive than the Inteli-Power. It doesn't have
> anything like the Charge Wizard that will give a visual indication of what
> it's doing.
>
> I think that being able to see what's going on is the big plus here.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 01:47:14 -0500
From: "Charlie Gunkel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: looking to improve lighting
Greetings from Tulsa,
We now have a 1977 Sovereign 31 ft. center bath. Previously we had a 1965
Sovereign which over the last 18 years has helped create many great
memories for my wife, our three kids, and myself. . I have been in the
process of putting pergo flooring in galley and doorway, with new carpet
elsewhere. I'm now motivated to do some other improvements to make our times
spent in the trailer even more enjoyable..
One of the things we would like to do is improve the lighting throughout the
trailer. All of the original lighting fixtures work fine but the lighting
still leaves a lot to be desired. A friend suggested I look into adding
some of the new 12 volt fixtures now used in trailers and RV's where 12
volts was readily available, and also new 110 volt light fixtures where 110
was available. I hadn't really thought about it until he suggested it. We
normally have 110 available where we camp, so a couple 110 volt fixtures
might be a possibility.
I am interested in what others have done to improve the lighting in their
vintage trailers. One idea he had was a light under the galley sink storage
area, over the front couch, and additional lighting in the center bath. The
shower has only indirect lighting from the fixtures on both side of the
vanity mirror over the sink so the lighting is really poor in the shower
and not all that great in the bathroom.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as to what type (incandescent
or florescent) , style, and voltage (12 volt dc or 110 ac) fixtures that
others have used for supplemental lighting to lighten up the interior of
their trailers. Where would you go shop for new fixtures?
I have been enjoying the vaclist for a long time. Thanks everybody for the
knowledge you've shared which has helped me and others in our own
restoration projects.
Cheers,
Charlie Gunkel
. .
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 06:18:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gregory Paulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
Depending on your coach size, and number of appliances
you need to run you may only need a 45 amp. I think
you'll be able to find one in the $200 range
Greg Paulsen
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 09:29:56 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Window Needed
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I have a 71 23' Land Yacht that has had the window by the door broken. The
glass frame itself is 21 3/4 by 18 1/2 inches. It is a curved piece of glass.
If anyone knows of availability, I sure would appreciate finding where I
could get a replacement.
I am about 40 miles south of Tyler Texas - not much available around here.
My WBCCI No. is 26925 and we are also members of the VAC.
E-Mail is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone 903.683.4457
Thank you for any help.
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>I have a 71 23' Land Yacht that has had
the window by the door broken. The glass frame itself is 21 3/4 by 18 1/2 inches. It
is a curved piece of glass.
<BR>If anyone knows of availability, I sure would appreciate finding where I could get
a replacement.
<BR>I am about 40 miles south of Tyler Texas - not much available around here.
<BR>My WBCCI No. is 26925 and we are also members of the VAC.
<BR>E-Mail is [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone 903.683.4457
<BR>Thank you for any help.</FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 11:56:38 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Removal
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Re: [VAC] Water Heater RemovalMy experience with water heater removal =
was a bit different than Pete's. Without taking out part of the =
fiberglass endcap in the bathroom (which I did not want to do) I could =
not get to the rivets holding the aluminum strips on the inside coach =
wall enclosing the water heater. The Bowen style water heater is in =
front of them and blocks access.
Consequently, I took out the old heater from the outside by making a =
diagonal cut into the top corners of the aluminum strips from the =
outside which lets the water heater squeeze through with some effort by =
bending the aluminum strips toward the outside as the water heater comes =
through. After the old heater was out, I straightened the aluminum =
strips and then installed the 6 gal Atwood from the outside.
I used the original Bowen three-piece heater door to maintain the =
original look and avoided patching the trailer skin to fill in to fit =
the smaller current water heaters cut out. =20
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Pete Ryner=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 23:57
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Heater Removal
Terry,
I just removed the water heater from my '68 Ambassador (28'). Not a =
simple chore. You have to gain access to the interior wall around the =
heater and remove the rivits holding three aluminum panels that close =
the space between the heater and the wall on the inside wall. Because =
of the design of the heater, it had to be removed from the inside of the =
trailer. Physically would not fit through the exterior opening. Concur =
with the other good advice. Replace it now and save yourself a lot of =
trouble later. Much too big a job to do over. The other problem I had =
was that the new heater was taller, but narrower. Had to cut the =
opening larger, then had a shroud fabricated to frame in the new heater. =
Overall it looks pretty good, but you may want to shop a little more =
than I did to find a closer replacement. I replaced the one in my '60 =
and it was virturally a one for one fit. Also was much easier to remove =
as it just slipped out the opening. =20
Good Luck
Pete =20
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf =
Of Terry Tyler
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:39 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Heater Removal
on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello all: There has been alot of discussion lately about water =
heaters. I will be attempting to remove mine this weekend. (1969 25 ft. =
Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere inside and I am hoping to repair the =
leak. Are there any potential problems that I should be aware of when =
removing this water heater? Thanks in advance for any hints.=20
Tom Fairbank=20
1969 25 ft tradewind=20
Tom,=20
Suggestion:
If the tank itself is leaking and not one of the fittings to it, =
then save yourself a lot of headaches and replace the whole thing. =
Otherwise, you'll be revisiting that job and it'll get old fast.=20
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
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<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [VAC] Water Heater Removal</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>My experience with water heater removal =
was a bit=20
different than Pete's. Without taking out part of the fiberglass endcap =
in the=20
bathroom (which I did not want to do) I could not get to the rivets =
holding the=20
aluminum strips on the inside coach wall enclosing the water heater. The =
Bowen=20
style water heater is in front of them and blocks access.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Consequently, I took out the old heater =
from the=20
outside by making a diagonal cut into the top corners of the aluminum =
strips=20
from the outside which lets the water heater squeeze through with =
some=20
effort by bending the aluminum strips toward the outside as the water =
heater=20
comes through. After the old heater was out, I straightened the aluminum =
strips=20
and then installed the 6 gal Atwood from the outside.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I used the original Bowen three-piece =
heater door=20
to maintain the original look and avoided patching the trailer skin to =
fill in=20
to fit the smaller current water heaters cut out.=20
</FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] =
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Pete=20
Ryner</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 02, 2002 =
23:57</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Water Heater =
Removal</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D447005003-03052002>Terry,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D447005003-03052002>I=20
just removed the water heater from my '68 Ambassador (28'). Not =
a simple=20
chore. You have to gain access to the interior wall around the =
heater=20
and remove the rivits holding three aluminum panels that close the =
space=20
between the heater and the wall on the inside wall. Because of =
the=20
design of the heater, it had to be removed from the inside of the=20
trailer. Physically would not fit through the exterior =
opening. =20
Concur with the other good advice. Replace it now and save =
yourself a=20
lot of trouble later. Much too big a job to do over. The =
other=20
problem I had was that the new heater was taller, but =
narrower. Had=20
to cut the opening larger, then had a shroud fabricated to frame in =
the new=20
heater. Overall it looks pretty good, but you may want to =
shop a=20
little more than I did to find a closer replacement. =
I replaced the=20
one in my '60 and it was virturally a one for one fit. Also was =
much=20
easier to remove as it just slipped out the=20
opening. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D447005003-03052002>Good=20
Luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D447005003-03052002>Pete </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Terry=20
Tyler<BR><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:39 PM<BR><B>To:</B> =
Multiple=20
recipients of VACList<BR><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Water Heater=20
Removal<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>on 05/02/02 2:43 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
wrote:<BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT size=3D2>Hello all: There has been alot of =
discussion=20
lately about water heaters. I will be attempting to remove =
mine this=20
weekend. (1969 25 ft. Tradewind) It leaks from somewhere =
inside and=20
I am hoping to repair the leak. Are there any potential =
problems=20
that I should be aware of when removing this water heater? Thanks =
in=20
advance for any hints. <BR>Tom Fairbank <BR>1969 25 ft =
tradewind</FONT>=20
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Tom, <BR><BR>Suggestion:<BR><BR>If the tank =
itself is=20
leaking and not one of the fittings to it, then save yourself a lot =
of=20
headaches and replace the whole thing. Otherwise, you'll be =
revisiting that=20
job and it'll get old fast. =
<BR><BR>Terry<BR>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
</BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 12:26:06 -0400
From: "Nick Novia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hot Water Tank
Patti
Tell me more about your water heater replacement! I have a '68
Safari...gutted...can I "easily" replace the old 10 gallon? What about the
exterior skin fit?
Nick Novia Ct
'68 safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
Bluegrasser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patricia Raimondo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 12:37 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Hot Water Tank
> Here, here. I vote with the removal of the Bowen and install the Atwood!
> It was painless and works great. Heats 6 gallons in record time. Why
> bother with trying to repair the old ? Go with the inevitable, replace!
>
> Patti
> 67 Safari (for the moment)
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 16:01:04 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hot Water Tank
Nick, I replaced the water heater in my ' 68. It will be easier to replace
with your Safari gutted. The new tanks have a smaller access door than the
original. Therefore you will have to add some aluminum on the top and sides
to the exterior to fill in the gap. I thought it looked best to reuse the
original ' 68 water heater door which is what I did. That covered the added
strips and makes the skin and water heater installation look original.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nick Novia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 12:26
Subject: [VAC] Re: Hot Water Tank
> Patti
> Tell me more about your water heater replacement! I have a '68
> Safari...gutted...can I "easily" replace the old 10 gallon? What about
the
> exterior skin fit?
> Nick Novia Ct
> '68 safari
> WBCCI #2577
> WDCU
> VAC
> Bluegrasser
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Patricia Raimondo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 12:37 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Hot Water Tank
>
>
> > Here, here. I vote with the removal of the Bowen and install the Atwood!
> > It was painless and works great. Heats 6 gallons in record time. Why
> > bother with trying to repair the old ? Go with the inevitable, replace!
> >
> > Patti
> > 67 Safari (for the moment)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 17:01:20 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Univolt
John,
Your batteries are in parallel, I believe, so they look like one big
battery to the converter/charger.
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 5/3/02 12:04:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
>
> The Charge Wizard is a plug-in that controls the
> Inteli-Power. It will monitor the state of the battery and switch the
> Inteli-Power to the appropriate output. It's inexpensive (less than
> $30 I
> think) and well worth it. It also provides a visual means of
> indicating the
> battery state.
>
>
>
> My '77 Excella has two batteries. Will I require two Charge Wizards
> running off of one Intelli-Power unit, or is that not a possibility?
> Will one Charge Wizard serve for a two battery system?
>
> Thanks,
> John
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 17:25:14 -0500
From: Richard Larson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Stuff for sale
hi everyone,
I have some parts out of my 73 airstream Safari for sale. Specifically, I
have an overhead light fixture (complete and working) for $15.00 and an
overhead vent assembly (needs TLC) for $10.00. Buy both for $20.00. All
prices do not include S/H. Call or email me if you are interested.
Olly Larson
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
952-890-6566
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #293
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