VACList DigestVACList-Digest Sunday, May 5, 2002 Issue 294
Today's Topics:
1. Re: looking to improve lighting
2. Window Help
3. Re: looking to improve lighting
4. Re: Stuff for sale
5. Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
6. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
7. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
8. Re: 5/2 Digest & File Attachments - Please Read
9. Electrical Advice
10. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
11. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
12. Battery Chargers
13. Re: Battery Chargers
14. Re: Battery Chargers
15. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
16. Re: Electrical Advice
17. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
18. Re: Electrical Advice
19. Re: Battery Chargers
20. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
21. Re: Battery Chargers
22. Re: Battery Chargers
23. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
24. Re: Battery Chargers
25. Re: Battery Chargers
26. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 21:38:55 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: looking to improve lighting
on 05/04/02 2:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as to what type (incandescent
> or florescent) , style, and voltage (12 volt dc or 110 ac) fixtures that
> others have used for supplemental lighting to lighten up the interior of
> their trailers. Where would you go shop for new fixtures?
Hi Charlie,
The idea about adding another light where a power source is already
available is how I did it. Specifically, I added 12 volt fluorescents next
to 12 volt incandescents. This more than doubled my lighting. No new wiring
was needed. Very simple installation with wire nuts (I don't solder when
connecting wires over my head), portable drill, pop rivet tool and pop
rivets.
By doing this, I can use the fluorescents when we don't have a 110 volt
hookup and the incandescents (and fluorescents) when we do have a 110 volt
hookup. For us, this is more than sufficient for a brightly lit interior.
In the 1986 32' Airstream we sold last Summer, I had installed a 12 volt
light near my wife's side of the bed where she could easily reach it during
the night. Also, I installed a 110 volt fluorescent light inside the
microwave compartment where it shines directly into the oven.
In our 1977 31' Airstream we used last Winter, I installed a 12 volt
incandescent light in the microwave compartment. It's rarely used, but is
very convenient when needed. I leave a light bulb (7 watts) socket plugged
into the extra outlet under our sink. It's always on when we have 110 volt
power and helps me see what's under there on cloudy days.
As for the 110 volt lights, that's a different story. If you look carefully,
you'll find 110 volt outlets that are not conveniently positioned by the
factory, i.e. under the sink (for the built in food processor), in back of
the microwave compartment (two outlets and only one is needed), behind the
bathroom sink on the outside wall (for the built in vacuum cleaner) and
probably other places I haven't found yet.
These "under used" outlets might be a good place to tap into the 110 volt
power and run the wire to where you want another outlet, such as near an
unobtrusive wallside corner for your small 750 watt electric heater (the one
that hardly makes any noise, but provides enough heat to keep everything
slightly warm on chilly nights).
These outlet boxes are easily made up with standard electrical wire and
junction boxes from your local hardware store. They can be made to fit into
a hole you make in a compartment wall or made for attaching outside a wall.
After securing the box permanently (pop rivets) in or against a wall (under
the dining table or wherever it's secure, convenient and not noticeable or
kickable), you'll be in business.
There are good and valid reasons for an electrician telling you how to make
this installation to ensure it meets code. Follow his advice.
While you're in the hardware store, get extra of everything and make up a
four outlet junction box with pigtail for use in your outside 110 volt
outlet when you need an extension cord for appliances that came with a two
foot cord (30 cup coffee pot), or your string of awning lights, or the
reading light on your picnic table for reading after dark.
The only extra 110 volt outlet we use routinely is for a reading light in
another location separate from the main reading light. That light also
serves as a night light (it's on a dimmer switch) when we are out for the
evening. Returning to a softly lit Airstream is more enjoyable for us than
to one that's totally dark inside.
These are only a sampling of ideas used by many of us. My supplemental
outlets have been in operation for 25 years without any problem. It's
important to follow national electrical codes. I've said that twice in this
note. Be smart and do your homework if you're not an electrician.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 22:10:47 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Window Help
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Thanks for the replies on my window question. I'll try the various
suggestions for locating a replacement window.
Thanks, Cliff
--part1_28.261c7386.2a05eea7_boundary
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Thanks for the replies on my window
question. I'll try the various suggestions for locating a replacement window.
<BR>Thanks, Cliff</FONT></HTML>
--part1_28.261c7386.2a05eea7_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 4 May 2002 22:34:06 -0500
From: "Charlie Gunkel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: looking to improve lighting
Terry,
Thank you so much for the tips. I appreciate you taking the time to send
such a helpful reply.
Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 8:38 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: looking to improve lighting
> on 05/04/02 2:47 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as to what type
(incandescent
> > or florescent) , style, and voltage (12 volt dc or 110 ac) fixtures that
> > others have used for supplemental lighting to lighten up the interior
of
> > their trailers. Where would you go shop for new fixtures?
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> The idea about adding another light where a power source is already
> available is how I did it. Specifically, I added 12 volt fluorescents next
> to 12 volt incandescents. This more than doubled my lighting. No new
wiring
> was needed. Very simple installation with wire nuts (I don't solder when
> connecting wires over my head), portable drill, pop rivet tool and pop
> rivets.
>
> By doing this, I can use the fluorescents when we don't have a 110 volt
> hookup and the incandescents (and fluorescents) when we do have a 110 volt
> hookup. For us, this is more than sufficient for a brightly lit interior.
>
> In the 1986 32' Airstream we sold last Summer, I had installed a 12 volt
> light near my wife's side of the bed where she could easily reach it
during
> the night. Also, I installed a 110 volt fluorescent light inside the
> microwave compartment where it shines directly into the oven.
>
> In our 1977 31' Airstream we used last Winter, I installed a 12 volt
> incandescent light in the microwave compartment. It's rarely used, but is
> very convenient when needed. I leave a light bulb (7 watts) socket plugged
> into the extra outlet under our sink. It's always on when we have 110 volt
> power and helps me see what's under there on cloudy days.
>
> As for the 110 volt lights, that's a different story. If you look
carefully,
> you'll find 110 volt outlets that are not conveniently positioned by the
> factory, i.e. under the sink (for the built in food processor), in back of
> the microwave compartment (two outlets and only one is needed), behind the
> bathroom sink on the outside wall (for the built in vacuum cleaner) and
> probably other places I haven't found yet.
>
> These "under used" outlets might be a good place to tap into the 110 volt
> power and run the wire to where you want another outlet, such as near an
> unobtrusive wallside corner for your small 750 watt electric heater (the
one
> that hardly makes any noise, but provides enough heat to keep everything
> slightly warm on chilly nights).
>
> These outlet boxes are easily made up with standard electrical wire and
> junction boxes from your local hardware store. They can be made to fit
into
> a hole you make in a compartment wall or made for attaching outside a
wall.
> After securing the box permanently (pop rivets) in or against a wall
(under
> the dining table or wherever it's secure, convenient and not noticeable or
> kickable), you'll be in business.
>
> There are good and valid reasons for an electrician telling you how to
make
> this installation to ensure it meets code. Follow his advice.
>
> While you're in the hardware store, get extra of everything and make up a
> four outlet junction box with pigtail for use in your outside 110 volt
> outlet when you need an extension cord for appliances that came with a two
> foot cord (30 cup coffee pot), or your string of awning lights, or the
> reading light on your picnic table for reading after dark.
>
> The only extra 110 volt outlet we use routinely is for a reading light in
> another location separate from the main reading light. That light also
> serves as a night light (it's on a dimmer switch) when we are out for the
> evening. Returning to a softly lit Airstream is more enjoyable for us than
> to one that's totally dark inside.
>
> These are only a sampling of ideas used by many of us. My supplemental
> outlets have been in operation for 25 years without any problem. It's
> important to follow national electrical codes. I've said that twice in
this
> note. Be smart and do your homework if you're not an electrician.
>
> Terry
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 06:13:16 -0400
From: "Kenny L. Pate" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stuff for sale
gota rock gaurd??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Larson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 6:25 PM
Subject: [VAC] Stuff for sale
> hi everyone,
>
> I have some parts out of my 73 airstream Safari for sale. Specifically, I
> have an overhead light fixture (complete and working) for $15.00 and an
> overhead vent assembly (needs TLC) for $10.00. Buy both for $20.00. All
> prices do not include S/H. Call or email me if you are interested.
>
> Olly Larson
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 952-890-6566
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 08:05:49 -0400
From: "Eric and Linda Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1F40B.AB4D9310
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am trying to wire my Dodge truck with a seven-wire Bargman Connector =
to match my 61 Bambi so I can bring it home. The 62 wiring diagram on =
Airstream Classics shows a center hub yellow wire going to the brake =
controller and hub #2 as a blue battery charge wire. The new Bargman =
diagrams show the center yellow wire as an auxiliary circuit and the =
blue #2 hib wire as the electric brake wire. Has anyone run into this =
and what should I do, re-wire the trailer wires or wire the Bargman =
specifically to fit my Bambi? Then I could not haul a different type of =
trailer. Eric and Linda Evans
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1F40B.AB4D9310
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2715.400" name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am trying to wire my Dodge truck with =
a=20
seven-wire Bargman Connector to match my 61 Bambi so I can bring it =
home. The 62 wiring diagram on Airstream Classics shows a center =
hub=20
yellow wire going to the brake controller and hub #2 as a blue battery =
charge=20
wire. The new Bargman diagrams show the center yellow wire as =
an=20
auxiliary circuit and the blue #2 hib wire as the electric brake =
wire. Has=20
anyone run into this and what should I do, re-wire the trailer wires or =
wire the=20
Bargman specifically to fit my Bambi? Then I could not haul a =
different=20
type of trailer. Eric and Linda Evans</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C1F40B.AB4D9310--
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 06:56:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gregory Paulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
Alot of manufacturers in the early days didn't pay
much attention to wiring things to a "code". In
Airstreams case they were consistant with the color
coding in that Yellow was brake, Black, back-up, Blue
was charge, White...ground, Red...left turn,
brown...right turn..., and Green...tail/marker lights.
It wasn't until the late 70's early 80's that RV
manufactureres adopted a consistant coding.
Now all trailer ready truck packages come with the
same color code to their tow plugs although not into
the plug, but out to tow trailers is the same. The
diagram that you got with your new plug will allow you
to tow just about anything (except older Airstreams)
and have the correct wiring. I'd change the plug on
the Airstream. This means you'll have to put the
trailer yellow to the blue on the plug, the blue to
the black, and the black to the center pin (aux),
red,brown,green,white remain the same.
Greg Paulsen
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 10:20:13 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--MS_Mac_OE_3103438813_173065_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
on 05/05/02 8:05 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am trying to wire my Dodge truck with a seven-wire Bargman Connector to
match my 61 Bambi so I can bring it home. The 62 wiring diagram on
Airstream Classics shows a center hub yellow wire going to the brake
controller and hub #2 as a blue battery charge wire. The new Bargman
diagrams show the center yellow wire as an auxiliary circuit and the blue #2
hib wire as the electric brake wire. Has anyone run into this and what
should I do, re-wire the trailer wires or wire the Bargman specifically to
fit my Bambi? Then I could not haul a different type of trailer. Eric and
Linda Evans
Eric,
I always rewire the trailer. That way I can use any of my trailers with the
same truck. Secondly, it's easier for me to get at and and work on the
trailer wiring than on the truck wiring. Thirdly, once I had learned the
colors and size of wire for each of the functions, it became simple logic
for locating the same on the trailer pigtail. Fourth, if any of the trailer
wires don't carry out their function, it's obviously not the truck's fault.
Fifthly, I don't mess with any wiring that I know to be fully operational
(my truck's wiring).
How's that for starters?
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--MS_Mac_OE_3103438813_173065_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [VAC] Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
on 05/05/02 8:05 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">I am trying to wire my Dodge =
truck with a seven-wire Bargman Connector to match my 61 Bambi so I can brin=
g it home. The 62 wiring diagram on Airstream Classics shows a center =
hub yellow wire going to the brake controller and hub #2 as a blue battery c=
harge wire. The new Bargman diagrams show the center yellow wire as an=
auxiliary circuit and the blue #2 hib wire as the electric brake wire. &nbs=
p;Has anyone run into this and what should I do, re-wire the trailer wires o=
r wire the Bargman specifically to fit my Bambi? Then I could not haul=
a different type of trailer. Eric and Linda Evans<BR>
</FONT></FONT><BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE>Eric,<BR>
<BR>
I always rewire the trailer. That way I can use any of my trailers with the=
same truck. Secondly, it's easier for me to get at and and work on the trai=
ler wiring than on the truck wiring. Thirdly, once I had learned the colors =
and size of wire for each of the functions, it became simple logic for locat=
ing the same on the trailer pigtail. Fourth, if any of the trailer wires don=
't carry out their function, it's obviously not the truck's fault. Fifthly, =
I don't mess with any wiring that I know to be fully operational (my truck's=
wiring). <BR>
<BR>
How's that for starters?<BR>
<BR>
Terry<BR>
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<BR>
<BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 08:16:20 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 5/2 Digest & File Attachments - Please Read
All Listees,
The Thursday Digest went out truncated due to a problem stripping off a
photo attachment (Digests get no attachments).
1- I will resend that Digest later today to all subscribers, so just delete
it if you are not a Digest user.
2- We have allowed small attachments ever since getting server based
software that blocks any virus attachments, but this may change as we get
ready to upgrade the software later again this year to an application that
doesn't allow attachments, but will have member shared file/photo areas
instead. Many other improvements will come with this change, too.
Maybe it's time to block all attachments to get people used to the idea.
This will mainly affect those whose email applications add excess file size
(text & Headers) as attachments. There are many of you out there that do
that.
So if you get a rejection notice back from a posting, just do it again, but
this time delete the file attachment and or reduce delete all unnecessary
text. This becomes a factor in long threads (reply to a reply to a reply...)
Let's see how it goes...
RJ
VAC Webmaster
> From: "Rick Langer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Fri, 3 May 2002 16:40:29 -0400
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Fw: [VAC]
>
> Hi RJ, This is all I got of the May 2 VACList. Is there any chance you
> could resend the missing entries?
> Thank you,
> Rick Langer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Thursday, May 02, 2002 8:30 PM
> Subject: [VAC]
>
>
>> VACList-Digest Thursday, May 2, 2002 Issue 291
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 10:40:01 -0500
From: "Jeff Griffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Electrical Advice
<html><div style='background-color:'><P>Hello All:</P>
<P>While replacing a segment of skin from my '68 Caravel, I found an uninsulated
copper wire hanging freely. Looks like it was once attached to something. The copper
wire leads back to the circuit breaker box. Electricity works with the wire hanging,
but <P>Any help greatly appreciated</P>
<P>Jeff</P></div><br clear=all><hr>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print
your photos: <a href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/46'>Click Here</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 11:53:44 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
Eric,
I posted this reply in the "other" list, will repeat it here because
you repeated your question here. <<grin>>
Wire the connector on the trailer to match the modern standards, don't
change your vehicle.
Although you can and should pay attention to the colors on the trailer
pigtail, the best method is to actually test the function of the wires
on the pigtail to confirm things. Using a battery and an inline fuse,
you can easily check out the functions, make a diagram, and wire the
connector accordingly.
When replacing a bad connector, I've often found that the pigtail cord
is also in need of replacement. Sooo... I'll prewire a length of the
special "trailer" 7-conductor cable to the new connector, then route it
to the junction area and connect it to the trailer wiring. The junction
area is often found under the trailer, perhaps near the step. There will
be a cover that's attached to the belly skin with pop rivets; proceed
accordingly.
While test-driving our 'new to us' Avion, I had the misfortune to get
the umbilical cable pinched in the hitch during a sharp turn. This
shorted out the wires, causing the brakes to lock up. Yanking the cable
out of the hitch and fiddling with it got the short cleared so I could
continue into my driveway. Although I've carried a spare connector in
the past, I'm modifying that to "carrying a spare connector, already
wired to an 8' hunk of cable". I find it kind of a bugger to terminate
that wire in the connector, something I'd much rather do "on the bench"
than "in the field, alongside the road". When I replaced the cable on
this trailer, I installed Riv-Nuts in the belly skin so
removal/replacement of the cover is done with a screwdriver rather than
a pop-rivet tool.
<<Jim>>
Eric and Linda Evans wrote:
> I am trying to wire my Dodge truck with a seven-wire Bargman Connector
> to match my 61 Bambi so I can bring it home. The 62 wiring diagram on
> Airstream Classics shows a center hub yellow wire going to the brake
> controller and hub #2 as a blue battery charge wire. The new Bargman
> diagrams show the center yellow wire as an auxiliary circuit and the
> blue #2 hib wire as the electric brake wire. Has anyone run into this
> and what should I do, re-wire the trailer wires or wire the Bargman
> specifically to fit my Bambi? Then I could not haul a different type of
> trailer. Eric and Linda Evans
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 11:56:35 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
Terry,
Plus, if/when you trade tow vehicles, you don't need to rewire the new
one. Or if you need someone else to tow your trailer in a pinch, his
"standard" wiring should allow everything to work. <<grin>>
<<Jim>>
Terry Tyler wrote:
> on 05/05/02 8:05 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> I am trying to wire my Dodge truck with a seven-wire Bargman
> Connector to match my 61 Bambi so I can bring it home. The 62
> wiring diagram on Airstream Classics shows a center hub yellow wire
> going to the brake controller and hub #2 as a blue battery charge
> wire. The new Bargman diagrams show the center yellow wire as an
> auxiliary circuit and the blue #2 hib wire as the electric brake
> wire. Has anyone run into this and what should I do, re-wire the
> trailer wires or wire the Bargman specifically to fit my Bambi?
> Then I could not haul a different type of trailer. Eric and Linda
> Evans
>
> Eric,
>
> I always rewire the trailer. That way I can use any of my trailers with
> the same truck. Secondly, it's easier for me to get at and and work on
> the trailer wiring than on the truck wiring. Thirdly, once I had learned
> the colors and size of wire for each of the functions, it became simple
> logic for locating the same on the trailer pigtail. Fourth, if any of
> the trailer wires don't carry out their function, it's obviously not the
> truck's fault. Fifthly, I don't mess with any wiring that I know to be
> fully operational (my truck's wiring).
>
> How's that for starters?
>
> Terry
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 12:34:08 -0400
From: "john or cindy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Battery Chargers
Hi fellow VACrs
I have been reading a lot about the old Univolts being replaced by a modern
Inteli-Power with a Charge Wizard. Maybe even using a Magnetek from the
Airstream dealer's inventory.
I have two trailers with batteries needing to be charged. I'm seriously
considering pulling the old Univolt and using a standard shop battery
charger.
My thinking is when dry camping I can go for two or three days without a
recharge needed. The battery chargers I have in my personal shop will charge
at up to 10 amps per hour. Considering I don't use many amps during the day
when I'm away from the trailer and not much when sleeping, the lower charge
rate during a 24 hr shore power hookup should make up for the short term
high draws during breakfast & dinner hours. My truck charging system puts
out up to 30 amps when traveling from camp to camp during the dry camping
days.
Considering two trailers, I can carry the batteries & charger from trailer
to trailer depending which trailer I'm using that weekend. The thought of
$200 or more for each trailer is too much for me to pay if I can work around
it with existing parts form my garage.
What do you think?
John Young
"If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy"
(R. Green)
WBCCI & VAC 6034
1958 22' Caravanner
1973 25' Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 14:20:53 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
John,
What you want to do will work. We had a failure of the UniVolt in our
'68 A/S while on a trip, so we went to Wal-Mart and bought a $40.00
battery charger to get us by.
A year or 2 later, the converter in our Avion failed (a refurbed
StatPower 20-amp Tru-Charge unit), again while on a trip. Of course, our
$40.00 battery charger was at home, and we needed power Right Now
because of its being Winter and needing to run the furnace. Sooo... it
was off to Wal-Mart again for another $40.00 10-amp charger. We used it
for nearly a week, until we got to a Camping World to buy an
Inteli-Power w/Charge Wizard. It took me several more days to get a
Round Tuit and install the I-P + C.W., with the battery charger doing a
fine job in the meantime.
Interesting observation: I connected the charger directly to the
batteries, which are under the front couch in that Avion, bypassing the
eMeter. That meant that the eMeter couldn't track Amp Hours INTO the
battery, only OUT. Over a period of about 3 days, the eMeter tracked
usage and started showing "Battery Low". However, selecting the Battery
Voltage function showed that the battery was in fact fully charged. We
could easily have gone "forever" with just the 10-amp charger, or so it
seems.
Long trips will now see us carrying the Wal-Mart charger as a backup. In
fact, I'm using it right now in our "new" Avion, as the converter
doesn't seem to be charging the battery at all and I've not yet gotten
around to replacing it with another I-P + C.W.
You might be disappointed in the charge rate from your vehicle to the
trailer; the eMeter shows that I'm charging at well UNDER 10 amps, due
to the voltage drop in the wiring. The usual #10 wire plus the
connectors lets the vehicle's voltage regulator see mostly the vehicle's
battery, so when it's charged, the trailer isn't getting much juice.
Anyone who does a significant amount of boondocking and depends on their
batteries to carry the load should have an eMeter or equivilant gadget
so they KNOW what's going on with the electrical system. I figure that
you wouldn't dream of driving a vehicle without working guages, and this
is no different. The silly lights or analog meters that are provided by
most RV manufacturers are pretty useless for determining battery condition.
<<Jim>>
john or cindy wrote:
> Hi fellow VACrs
> I have been reading a lot about the old Univolts being replaced by a modern
> Inteli-Power with a Charge Wizard. Maybe even using a Magnetek from the
> Airstream dealer's inventory.
>
> I have two trailers with batteries needing to be charged. I'm seriously
> considering pulling the old Univolt and using a standard shop battery
> charger.
>
> My thinking is when dry camping I can go for two or three days without a
> recharge needed. The battery chargers I have in my personal shop will charge
> at up to 10 amps per hour. Considering I don't use many amps during the day
> when I'm away from the trailer and not much when sleeping, the lower charge
> rate during a 24 hr shore power hookup should make up for the short term
> high draws during breakfast & dinner hours. My truck charging system puts
> out up to 30 amps when traveling from camp to camp during the dry camping
> days.
>
> Considering two trailers, I can carry the batteries & charger from trailer
> to trailer depending which trailer I'm using that weekend. The thought of
> $200 or more for each trailer is too much for me to pay if I can work around
> it with existing parts form my garage.
>
> What do you think?
> John Young
> "If the women don't find you handsome,
> they should at least find you handy"
> (R. Green)
> WBCCI & VAC 6034
> 1958 22' Caravanner
> 1973 25' Tradewind
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 11:52:11 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Jim,
I went up to Camping World in San Marcos yesterday to check out the
Intellipower and Charge Wizard.
There were two Intellipower chargers on sale. The more expensive one was
$219 (members) and mentioned 2 stage charging. The second was $189
(members) and did not mention multi-stage chargers but did recommend that it
could be used with the Charge Wizard. I assume both units could use CW?
The Charge Wizard itslf was not much to look at. Has anybody had a really
positive experience with Intellipower cheap model and Charge Wizard? Also
there were 3 low end chargers that appeared to be nothing more than
transformers with DC alligator clips. They were priced from $40 - $60 and
all claimed to prevent overcharging. Almost sounds to me like you could
plug a Charge Wizard into the Univolt.
Bob in Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 15:29:42 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
Tim and Linda. For safety sakes, focus your attention to safety, and not how
many different trailers you can tow with the same connector. Life is worth
far more than the price of a connector.
Also, using a Bargman "flat blade" connector is not a good idea. First of
all, they corrode badly, and secondly, one grain of sand will stop it from
working. Also as they age, you will have to clean it every time you want to
use the trailer.
Instead you can use the "Pollack" connectors that have the "aircraft type
pins," which are self cleaning. They cost a little more, but provide the
ultimate in performance. A corroded or ill fitting connector can fail at any
time, perhaps when you need the brakes the next time, and then it's too late.
Ask anyone who has had the experience.
Most Airstream dealers carry those connectors and boots for them.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 15:41:00 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Electrical Advice
What color is that wire?
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 13:42:51 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
A liberal application of Ford dielectric grease has prevented a new 7
flat pin Bargman from corroding for two years so far. Replacing the
connector was FAR easier than cleaning the old one.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 15:29:59 -0500
From: "Jeff Griffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Electrical Advice
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Andy:</P>
<P>The wire is solid copper and is uninsulated. Looks like the wire used for
themocouplers.</P>
<P>Jeff<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<DIV></DIV>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<DIV></DIV>>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: [VAC] Re: Electrical Advice
<DIV></DIV>>Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 15:41:00 EDT
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>What color is that wire?
<DIV></DIV>>Andy
<DIV></DIV>>inlandrv.com
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
<DIV></DIV>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: <a
href='http://g.msn.com/1HM105401/43'>Click Here</a><br></html>
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 16:31:53 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Has anyone determined how low or high primary voltage input changes the
output of the Intellipower? How does it compare to a "Univolt."
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 16:34:45 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
You mean Ford has come out with something that "lasts?" Amazing.
(Humor intended.)
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 14:40:33 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Jim,
You have a much more complicated system than mine. My question (for
the group) is "Will the Charge Wizard work in conjunction with the Univolt,
which still charges (a little too well). OR must the Charge Wizard be used
only with the Intellipower Unit. BTW Intellipower has changed ownership
and the packages have all sorts of different names.
Bob in Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 16:09:53 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2002 11:52 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Battery Chargers
> Jim,
> I went up to Camping World in San Marcos yesterday to check out the
> Intellipower and Charge Wizard.
> There were two Intellipower chargers on sale. The more expensive one was
> $219 (members) and mentioned 2 stage charging. The second was $189
> (members) and did not mention multi-stage chargers but did recommend that
it
> could be used with the Charge Wizard. I assume both units could use CW?
>
> The Charge Wizard itslf was not much to look at. Has anybody had a really
> positive experience with Intellipower cheap model and Charge Wizard? Also
> there were 3 low end chargers that appeared to be nothing more than
> transformers with DC alligator clips. They were priced from $40 - $60
and
> all claimed to prevent overcharging. Almost sounds to me like you could
> plug a Charge Wizard into the Univolt.
>
> Bob in Oceanside
>
The only difference between the two Inteli-Power (note: there is only one
"l" there....a search with two will give bad results.) units is the output.
The less expensive one puts out 40 amps, the other 55 amps. Both are
multi-state chargers, and both will accept the Charge Wizard.
I don't know of any other converter that will accept the plug of the CW
without some major work on the user's part. The CW simply plugs into a port
on the I-P and acts as a charge controller, reading the battery state and
then switching the Inteli-Power to the proper function.
AFAIK, the unit is still made by Progressive Dynamics, and there has been no
change in ownership.
This ain't rocket science guys.....it works, and it's inexpensive.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 19:29:52 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
Gerald,
I've been using either dielectric grease or Corrosion-X spray on both
sides of my trailer connectors. Ya gotta do *something*!
<<Jim>>
Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:
> A liberal application of Ford dielectric grease has prevented a new 7
> flat pin Bargman from corroding for two years so far. Replacing the
> connector was FAR easier than cleaning the old one.
>
> Gerald J.
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 19:38:55 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Bob,
You didn't give model numbers, so I can't tell for sure what you're
looking at.
I have the 40-amp I-P, plus the Charge Wizard. No, the latter isn't much
to look at, but it works exactly as advertised. My eMeter tells me so.
The C.W. will work ONLY with converter/chargers that are designed for
it, not anything else. The C.W., used with the appropiate I-P charger,
provides 3-stage charging. The voltage is set to 14.4 until the battery
is 80% charged, drops to 13.6 for 24 hours, then drops to 13.2 if the
battery isn't being used at all. While in this long-term-storage mode,
it will kick up to 14.4 volts for 15 minutes, every 24 hours or so. That
keeps the electrolyte stirred up and prevents sulphation.
Some of those little "transformer with clips" outfits are trickle
chargers, or battery maintainers. Their purpose in life is to keep your
battery topped off while it's in storage, w/o overcharging it. They're
incapable of charging a "low" battery in any reasonable time. And
although they won't overcharge a battery, they probably won't really
FULLY charge it at all.
<<Jim>>
My Airstream wrote:
> Jim,
> I went up to Camping World in San Marcos yesterday to check out the
> Intellipower and Charge Wizard.
> There were two Intellipower chargers on sale. The more expensive one was
> $219 (members) and mentioned 2 stage charging. The second was $189
> (members) and did not mention multi-stage chargers but did recommend that it
> could be used with the Charge Wizard. I assume both units could use CW?
>
> The Charge Wizard itslf was not much to look at. Has anybody had a really
> positive experience with Intellipower cheap model and Charge Wizard? Also
> there were 3 low end chargers that appeared to be nothing more than
> transformers with DC alligator clips. They were priced from $40 - $60 and
> all claimed to prevent overcharging. Almost sounds to me like you could
> plug a Charge Wizard into the Univolt.
>
> Bob in Oceanside
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 19:41:31 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Andy,
Neither the I-P nor UniVolt should be much affected by varying input
voltage. The I-P will do a great job, the Univolt will work as well (or
poorly) as it ever did.
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Has anyone determined how low or high primary voltage input changes the
> output of the Intellipower? How does it compare to a "Univolt."
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 19:55:21 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
Andy,
You certainly have more experience than most of the folks here, but:
Why does "everyone" use the Bargman connector? I believe that's what's
provided on a vehicle with a "factory tow package", is it not? The
connectors that I use have a spring action to them and are as
self-cleaning as anything else that I've seen.
I'm not saying that they're not without fault; I've had connectors that
physically plugged together but didn't pass electricity. And not
necessarily from failure per se, but some sort of mismatch. There are
differences in brands, of course, and buying the ones from our friends
in China probably isn't the best idea.
Anything that has 12VDC on it and is exposed to the weather will want to
corrode, that's why the smart folks use dielectric grease or something
to help prevent it.
Also, I don't know about anyone else, but when travelling, we stop about
every hour or hour and a half. EVERY time we start out again, I pull the
light switch and peek at the trailer's clearance lights in the mirror,
THEN press the manual button on my brake controller. EVERY TIME!
If Tom & Linda do elect to install some sort of bastard connector (look
up 'bastard' as used in this context), I'd hope they'd purchase an extra
set of male and female parts and make up an adaptor cable. Sooner or
later, they'll either want or HAVE to tow their trailer with a different
vehicle, or want or have to tow a different trailer. That adaptor
pigtail will come in handy in either case.
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Tim and Linda. For safety sakes, focus your attention to safety, and not how
> many different trailers you can tow with the same connector. Life is worth
> far more than the price of a connector.
> Also, using a Bargman "flat blade" connector is not a good idea. First of
> all, they corrode badly, and secondly, one grain of sand will stop it from
> working. Also as they age, you will have to clean it every time you want to
> use the trailer.
> Instead you can use the "Pollack" connectors that have the "aircraft type
> pins," which are self cleaning. They cost a little more, but provide the
> ultimate in performance. A corroded or ill fitting connector can fail at any
> time, perhaps when you need the brakes the next time, and then it's too late.
>
> Ask anyone who has had the experience.
> Most Airstream dealers carry those connectors and boots for them.
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
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