VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, May 6, 2002 Issue 295
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Battery Chargers
2. Re: Battery Chargers
3. Re: Battery Chargers
4. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
5. Re: Battery Chargers
6. Re: Battery Chargers
7. Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
8. Re: Battery Chargers
9. Zip Awnings...
10. Re: Zip Awnings...
11. Re: Battery Chargers
12. Re: Battery Chargers
13. Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
14. Re: Zip Awnings...
15. Re: Zip Awnings...
16. Re: Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
17. It's pouring
18. Re: Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
19. Re: It's pouring
20. Re: Electrical Advice
21. Re: Electrical Advice
22. Re:
23. DC converters/chargers
24. Re: DC converters/chargers
25. Safari Weight
26. Re: It's pouring
27. Re: It's pouring
28. Re: Safari Weight
29. Re: Safari Weight
30. tongue set-up
31. Re: tongue set-up
32. Re: Safari Weight
33. Re: Safari Weight
34. Re: Safari Weight/'93 Buick LeSabre Tow?
35. Re: Battery Chargers
36. Re: Battery Chargers
37. Re: Battery Chargers
38. Re: Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
39. Re: DC converters/chargers
40. Re: tongue set-up
41. Re: It's pouring
42. Re: Battery Chargers
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 17:02:26 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Jim & Roger,
Thanks for all the feedback about the chargers available at Camping
World. The sale lasts until the 21st of the month so I'll high tail it up
to San Marcos and PU the 40 amp model and Charge Wizard.
One last question. Why would Airstream state that their Univolt wouldn't
overcharge when the darn things are legendary for boiling batteries? Is it
just age? Also I haven't heard from Dr. G. and I'm sure he would know the
answer to this question.
Thanks again.
Bob
66 Safari in Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 17:16:16 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
> I have the 40-amp I-P, plus the Charge Wizard. No, the latter isn't much
> to look at, but it works exactly as advertised. My eMeter tells me so.
Where do you get this emeter? Whats a good price for one?
Thanks
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 18:36:06 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Not only are the univolts legendary for over charging batteries, many of
the small "trickle" chargers will also overcharge a battery. A few of
the new battery maintainers have voltage limiting but I've wrecked more
than one battery with a cheap 3 amp charger that charged continuously,
never tapering to match the charged voltage of the battery.
My dad converted our Univolt to solid state regulation long ago and I'm
not fiddling with it until it breaks. I believe he used a circuit I
designed that works quite well.
The regulation of the Univolt is based on ferroresonance, and as
capacitors age the voltage setting can change. Shock could dislodge the
magnetic shunt in the core if its not bolted in very securely and that
will change the voltage. Also since resonance is essential to the
regulation technique, running a Univolt on a small generator will
guarantee failure of regulation because the voltage is very sensitive to
frequency.
Very likely the Univolt was designed with the same tolerances as
automotive voltage regulators of the era which accepted charging
voltages of 13 to 15 volts. And guaranteed needing new batteries before
the end of the battery guarantee. We now know that holding charging
voltages (knew then but Detroit was too cheap to build good voltage
regulators) need to be held to a tolerance of more like 0.1 volt at 14.2
for charging, a little less for floating and a little more for
equalizing (once a month or so) and when we do that we get much better
battery life (and all of the expected battery capacity).
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 21:09:43 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
on 05/05/02 3:29 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Also, using a Bargman "flat blade" connector is not a good idea. First of
> all, they corrode badly, and secondly, one grain of sand will stop it from
> working. Also as they age, you will have to clean it every time you want to
> use the trailer.
Andy,
How long does it take for them to corrode? I'm wondering when I should start
looking for that problem. On one of my tow vehicles, the flat blade
connector is still working perfectly after 7 years.
Once a year I put a dab of dielectric grease on it (as I do on the Pollack
connectors in my other tow vehicles) and I always protect the connector with
an empty frozen OJ container (made out of plastic) when the flat blade
connector is not in the tow vehicle's connector.
I never hang my connector where sand can get up into it (like when it rains
and the weight of falling drops kick up sand).
Second question: When they age, what happens to them that requires cleaning
every time they are used? I'd like to be on the alert for age symptoms. So
far, all I do is wipe off excess dielectric grease on hot days.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 18:25:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gregory Paulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
The univolt is no longer a "uni-volt" Just a regular
converter.
Camping World online sells the IP for 249.00 and the
Charge Wizard for 29.95...=278.95 (not Presidents
Club)
Found a web site called rvpartsoutlet.com that has the
combo for 223.34, and the Magnatek TU550 for 211.00,
though don't know how their service or inventory is.
Greg Paulsen
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 18:57:49 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Greg Paulsen wrote a recommendation with pricing of http://rvpartsoutlet.com
vs. Camping World. I was at CW yesterday and the prices (for members) are
fresh in mind. When it comes to the Inteli-power converter and Charge
Wizard the website is cheaper. Unfortunately they are in California and
will charge me sales tax + shipping, which makes them about equal.
Also I think I get credits for each purchase with Camping World. I will
definitely bookmark this site.
Thanks,
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 05 May 2002 20:17:34 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Early 60s Bargman plug hook-up
Keeping the contacts coated with dielectric grease ought to make the
connectors last a very long time. Its whole purpose is to prevent
corrosion from moisture and it does that well. My '86 Ford truck came
with a dielectric grease on all the lamps and in 14 years, I never had a
lamp socket corrosion problem. Most other connectors included some
dielectric grease for the same purpose and it worked.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 19:25:07 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Thanks Gerald,
You have convince me beyond the shadow of a doubt to dump the Univolt.
We all know the old saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." But Univolt
breaks other things because it doesn't ferroresonate properly ?!:)
Thanks once again for your clarity and wisdom.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> The regulation of the Univolt is based on ferroresonance, and as
> capacitors age the voltage setting can change.
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 20:44:25 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Zip Awnings...
My '71 Safari has an awning I have never opened. I don't really know how.
I assume it's a zip dee but I don't know for sure.
If it is, would this be the correct instructions to open/close it?
http://www.zipdeeinc.com/CurvedAwnOp.html
I am also sure that the fabric is most likely in bad condition since the
rest of the trailer was. Has anyone replaced the fabric themselves?
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 21:11:05 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Zip Awnings...
Dear Tim,
Your Safari looks great. Hard to believe that none of the appliances
work. I'd begin by checking the Univolt, battery and electrical. Do you
have a gas lamp. Make sure you replace your gas cylinder valves with OPD.
Then I would try to light the gas lamp. It's the simplest of the on-board
gas appliances to tell whether you have a system problem or whether each
appliance needs service/replacement. If you get sick of messing with the
Zip Dee I might be interested in buying it and . . . yes, I would replace
the fabric.
Where are the three beds? My 66 Safari has one up front and one opposite
the galley on the street side of the coach. Have a ball with your
restoration.
Bob Kiger
66 Safari in Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Zip Awnings...
> My '71 Safari has an awning I have never opened. I don't really know how.
> I assume it's a zip dee but I don't know for sure.
>
> If it is, would this be the correct instructions to open/close it?
>
> http://www.zipdeeinc.com/CurvedAwnOp.html
>
> I am also sure that the fabric is most likely in bad condition since the
> rest of the trailer was. Has anyone replaced the fabric themselves?
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 00:14:59 -0400
From: William Jacobs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
John,
This is probably wishful thinking. The last time I measured the charge
going into the battery from the truck it was about 4/10 of an amp. The
long run of wire and the connectors drop a lot of voltage and the
voltage is regulated at the truck battery.
bill
25 ft Trade Wind in WV
john or cindy wrote:
> My truck charging system puts
> out up to 30 amps when traveling from camp to camp during the dry camping
> days.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 00:39:42 -0400
From: William Jacobs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Andy,
There is more than one kind of Univolt. The one in my 76 Trade Wind is
listed at 11.5 volt RMS out. It to is a ferroresonate unit. It will
not over charge a battery. I have it plugged in now and it has been
since last August when I put the trailer in storage. It will keep the
battery up with out boiling the water out. One problem is that it takes
a long time to charge the battery. It will supply about 55 amp but can
only charge the battery at about 3 amp. It only supplies 16 volts peak
and not very much power there. I believe that Univolt is a trade mark
(Trade name) of General Signal but I am not sure.
I have connected a varac to the input of this unit and the output did
not change by more than 1/2 volt as I swung the input from 30 to 150
volts. The regulation is very good.
The second type of Univolt ( I have one of these also but do not use
it. I am not sure that it says "Univolt" on it. is just a transformer
and a diode. It has two big fuses on the front panel. There is no
regulation at all and it will boil the battery dry. It is rated at 12
volt RMS also.
If you want a 1 page of 'Theory of Operation', I will send you one off
list.
bill
25 ft Trade wind in WV
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Has anyone determined how low or high primary voltage input changes the
> output of the Intellipower? How does it compare to a "Univolt."
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 21:58:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Leggett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
On the advice of this list, I recently purchased and
installed an I-P 9140 and the charge wizard - but have
one outstanding question:
To what do you connect the I-P independent chassis
ground? The installation instructions specifically
state you should not use the same ground as the output
side to the 12v load.
Do you ground it to a copper water line, or the
trailer frame, or what?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
John Leggett
1968 Safari
WBCCI #1154
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 22:00:20 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Zip Awnings...
Thanks Bob.
A lot has changed since those pictures. I am too lazy to update the
webpage....
I now have a new Penquin A/C, new fridge. I have fixed the heater, and the
water heater already worked. I have also serviced the gas tanks with new
OPD valves and had the original regulater checked. I wanted to keep it
because it looks beefier than the newer ones.
I have also just replaced the floor and getting things ready to build new
cabinet doors.
Since the original tambour doors were shot, I have decided to just replace
them with regular doors made from birch wood and stained to match.....
I will do that while I wait for my June 21st appointment for the upholstrey.
I have two twin beds in the midsection and one double up front. I had to
fix some hardware on them but they seem to be ok....
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2002 9:11 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Zip Awnings...
> Dear Tim,
> Your Safari looks great. Hard to believe that none of the appliances
> work. I'd begin by checking the Univolt, battery and electrical. Do you
> have a gas lamp. Make sure you replace your gas cylinder valves with OPD.
> Then I would try to light the gas lamp. It's the simplest of the on-board
> gas appliances to tell whether you have a system problem or whether each
> appliance needs service/replacement. If you get sick of messing with the
> Zip Dee I might be interested in buying it and . . . yes, I would replace
> the fabric.
>
> Where are the three beds? My 66 Safari has one up front and one opposite
> the galley on the street side of the coach. Have a ball with your
> restoration.
> Bob Kiger
> 66 Safari in Oceanside, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Zip Awnings...
>
>
> > My '71 Safari has an awning I have never opened. I don't really know
how.
> > I assume it's a zip dee but I don't know for sure.
> >
> > If it is, would this be the correct instructions to open/close it?
> >
> > http://www.zipdeeinc.com/CurvedAwnOp.html
> >
> > I am also sure that the fabric is most likely in bad condition since the
> > rest of the trailer was. Has anyone replaced the fabric themselves?
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 22:15:44 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Zip Awnings...
Tim wrote about his 71 Safari:
> I have two twin beds in the midsection and one double up front.
Where's the galley?
bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 22:21:52 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
I'm real interested in the answer to this question as well. Lot's of good
stuff out there right now.
Bob
66 Safari in Oceanside.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Leggett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, May 05, 2002 9:58 PM
Subject: [VAC] Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
> On the advice of this list, I recently purchased and
> installed an I-P 9140 and the charge wizard - but have
> one outstanding question:
>
> To what do you connect the I-P independent chassis
> ground? The installation instructions specifically
> state you should not use the same ground as the output
> side to the 12v load.
>
> Do you ground it to a copper water line, or the
> trailer frame, or what?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> John Leggett
> 1968 Safari
> WBCCI #1154
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 22:35:31 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: It's pouring
I come back from my Mexico vacation and there was no hot water pressure.
Learned all about calcium from you great people. Now, all the bathroom
fixtures are leaking. The toilet leaks and doesn't shut off unless I really
force it. On constant vigil to keep leaks from sogging up floor. That's
the bad news.
The good news is that I qualified for a HUD Grant up to $3500 for repairs.
I am replacing the asbestos floor, pulling the A/C and patching the ceiling
and replacing the water heater and possibly all the copper and bathroom
fixtures.
I need (just short of deperately) to find California contractors who are
sensitive to the unique qualities of vintage Airstream and WILL DO THE JOB
ON SITE. I have no choice in this matter. I don't want to turn this over
to a local hack who has never worked on an Airstream.
The work has to be done by a licensed contractor. Please, if you have a
lead on a good Airstream capable contractor I am in Oceanside, CA. Ready to
go.
Bob Kiger
760 966-5081
Thanks for any help.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 07:11:15 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
On Sun, 5 May 2002 21:58:14 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
>To what do you connect the I-P independent chassis
>ground? The installation instructions specifically
>state you should not use the same ground as the output
>side to the 12v load.
>
>Do you ground it to a copper water line, or the
>trailer frame, or what?
It should be connected to the trailer frame- usually by a #8
bare wire.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 05:13:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gregory Paulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: It's pouring
Bob:
Although we don't work away from our location, we are
not too far from you and we Only work on Airstreams,
call us, maybe we can help.
Greg Paulsen
Inland RV 1-800-877-7311
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
http://health.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 10:01:02 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Electrical Advice
Jeff. That wire is a "ground" wire. It cannot cause a problem.
Andy
inlandrv.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 09:18:46 -0500
From: "Jeff Griffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Electrical Advice
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P>Andy:</P>
<P>Thanks.</P>
<P>Jeff<BR><BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<DIV></DIV>>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<DIV></DIV>>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: [VAC] Re: Electrical Advice
<DIV></DIV>>Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 10:01:02 EDT
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Jeff. That wire is a "ground" wire. It cannot cause a problem.
<DIV></DIV>>Andy
<DIV></DIV>>inlandrv.com
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
<DIV></DIV>>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
<DIV></DIV>>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 09:13:27 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Jim Dunmeyer wrote to Eric's question:
>
> When replacing a bad connector, I've often found that the pigtail cord
> is also in need of replacement. Sooo... I'll prewire a length of the
> special "trailer" 7-conductor cable to the new connector, then route it
> to the junction area and connect it to the trailer wiring. The junction
> area is often found under the trailer, perhaps near the step. There will
> be a cover that's attached to the belly skin with pop rivets; proceed
> accordingly.
This is exactly what I found on my 62 Bambi except for the location of the
cover. I wound up taking out the entire pigtail and have ordered a
pre-wired new one. On the Bambi the pigtail runs in the curbside arm of the
A-frame and terminates at a cover just behind the front of the trailer body
to the inside of the A-frame. Under this cover you will find a bundle of
red wires for the trailer lighting, Two orange wires, one a lead to the
battery and one to the 12 volt inside wiring and a green wire to ground and
the negative battery terminal. When you cut off the pigtail it may be
helpful to leave a little colored piece of the old pigtail on the trailer
wires until you connect the new pigtail so you can relate to the earlier
response regarding color coding. My wiring was really kind of messed up
from some previous "fixes". I am very glad I decided to re-wire the trailer
to todays standard.
Dick
1962 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:47:30 -0400
From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DC converters/chargers
All this discussion of Univolts and Chargers leads me to asking a dumb
question as it relates to my '63 Overlander.
My Overlander is pre-Univolt. The DC and AC systems are totally independent
of each other with no charging of the battery except through auto alternator
while towing. In order to add a dc converter/charger where is the best
location to place it, and how would I actually wire it in?
The battery box is on the street side and the AC hook up cable and fuse box
is on the curb side. Shall I simply find a location where the AC of the
converter can be plugged it, and then splice the dc output into what???
The Overlander is still under "re-construction" and I have actually never
used it, so my understanding of it's operation is an assumption on my part.
Any recommendations as to configuring the electrical would be appreciated.
Phil R
Guilford, CT
63 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 09:34:25 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: DC converters/chargers
Phil,
I would locate the converter as close to the battery as possible. The
Inteli-Power comes with a cord & plug for an AC outlet, so if you have one
near the battery box that's fine.
Output of the converter would be direct to the battery. You might have to
make up some cables, but that shouldn't be a big deal.
Roger
Roger Hightower, N7KT
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 12:36:54 -0500
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Safari Weight
Hello everyone. Does anyony know the approx weight of a 1966 22ft Safari? My
truck blew the crankshaft and I was wondering if my 1993 Buick LaSabre with
a 3800 V6 would do the job for a short trip from Wichita, Ks to Ft Worth,
Tx.
Thanks
George Thomas
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 12:54:27 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: It's pouring
bob how did you get HUD to pay for it
gina
>From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] It's pouring
>Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 22:35:31 -0700
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>
>I come back from my Mexico vacation and there was no hot water pressure.
>Learned all about calcium from you great people. Now, all the bathroom
>fixtures are leaking. The toilet leaks and doesn't shut off unless I
>really
>force it. On constant vigil to keep leaks from sogging up floor. That's
>the bad news.
>
>The good news is that I qualified for a HUD Grant up to $3500 for repairs.
>I am replacing the asbestos floor, pulling the A/C and patching the ceiling
>and replacing the water heater and possibly all the copper and bathroom
>fixtures.
>
>I need (just short of deperately) to find California contractors who are
>sensitive to the unique qualities of vintage Airstream and WILL DO THE JOB
>ON SITE. I have no choice in this matter. I don't want to turn this over
>to a local hack who has never worked on an Airstream.
>
>The work has to be done by a licensed contractor. Please, if you have a
>lead on a good Airstream capable contractor I am in Oceanside, CA. Ready
>to
>go.
>
>Bob Kiger
>760 966-5081
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:55:43 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: It's pouring
----- Original Message -----
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> bob how did you get HUD to pay for it
> gina
HUD has made money available to municipalities to make necessary repairs on
"permanently installed" mobile homes. You must meet the income standards,
which is about $21,000 for a single person. Contact your city administrator
to see if they have the program.
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 11:57:58 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Safari Weight
Unloaded you 66 Safari should weigh 3340 pounds. Tongue weight is 350.
Bob Kiger
http://cruiserbob.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: [VAC] Safari Weight
> Hello everyone. Does anyony know the approx weight of a 1966 22ft Safari?
My
> truck blew the crankshaft and I was wondering if my 1993 Buick LaSabre
with
> a 3800 V6 would do the job for a short trip from Wichita, Ks to Ft Worth,
> Tx.
>
> Thanks
> George Thomas
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 15:14:09 -0400
From: "Nick Novia" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Safari Weight
George
According to my manual...my Safari...1968...is 3490 pounds...empty.
Right now...it's about half that! <g>
Nick Novia Ct
'68 safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
Bluegrasser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 1:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] Safari Weight
> Hello everyone. Does anyony know the approx weight of a 1966 22ft Safari?
My
> truck blew the crankshaft and I was wondering if my 1993 Buick LaSabre
with
> a 3800 V6 would do the job for a short trip from Wichita, Ks to Ft Worth,
> Tx.
>
> Thanks
> George Thomas
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 14:07:57 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: tongue set-up
My Airstream had a very poorly fabricated battery holder behind the LP
tanks. I am considering moving the LP tanks back and fabricating a new
battery holder with an aluminum cover to sit in front of the tanks. This
would put the wider tanks on the wider part of the tongue and the narrower
battery on the narrow part of the tongue. Are there any potential problems
with this change? I am re-wiring to the battery anyway so I would run the
hot wire in the tongue channel making for a nice neat job. Any thoughts
would be appreciated.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 13:24:58 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
Run two wires to the battery, one hot, one ground and connect the ground
to the ground post at the distribution block. Its a better connection
than via the frame. Be sure the anchor the battery so it can't bounce up
to the aluminum battery cover.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 14:30:18 -0500
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Safari Weight
Thanks Bob, the info is appreciated.
-----Original Message-----
From: My Airstream [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 1:58 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Safari Weight
Unloaded you 66 Safari should weigh 3340 pounds. Tongue weight is 350.
Bob Kiger
http://cruiserbob.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 10:36 AM
Subject: [VAC] Safari Weight
> Hello everyone. Does anyony know the approx weight of a 1966 22ft Safari?
My
> truck blew the crankshaft and I was wondering if my 1993 Buick LaSabre
with
> a 3800 V6 would do the job for a short trip from Wichita, Ks to Ft Worth,
> Tx.
>
> Thanks
> George Thomas
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 14:40:04 -0500
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Safari Weight
I know what you mean. I am in the middle of a full restoration project with
66 Safari and only half done. But the electric and plumbing and AC is all
done. I still need to reinstall the cabinets. But I am working in Ft. Worth
Tx and my truck is in the process of having the engine rebuilt so I have no
way of towing my 30ft 5th wheel which I use when I travel for work. I am
staying in a older pop-up with no AC. So I thought I might use my Safari
temporally until I get my truck back on the road.
Thanks for the help
George Thomas
'66 Safari
-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Novia [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 2:14 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Safari Weight
George
According to my manual...my Safari...1968...is 3490 pounds...empty.
Right now...it's about half that! <g>
Nick Novia Ct
'68 safari
WBCCI #2577
WDCU
VAC
Bluegrasser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://photos.yahoo.com/bptcityboy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas, George C (N-YOH)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 1:36 PM
Subject: [VAC] Safari Weight
> Hello everyone. Does anyony know the approx weight of a 1966 22ft Safari?
My
> truck blew the crankshaft and I was wondering if my 1993 Buick LaSabre
with
> a 3800 V6 would do the job for a short trip from Wichita, Ks to Ft Worth,
> Tx.
>
> Thanks
> George Thomas
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 15:06:11 -0500
From: "Kevin D. Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Safari Weight/'93 Buick LeSabre Tow?
Greetings George!
I was wondering if my 1993 Buick LaSabre with
> a 3800 V6 would do the job for a short trip from Wichita, Ks to Ft Worth,
> Tx.
I would be very hesitant to consider the Buick LeSabre as a tow vehicle. If
my memory serves correctly, the maximum trailer weight permitted by factory
rating was 2,400 pounds - - and even that required a load distributing hitch
setup.
With all of the drivetrain under the hood, the additional heat generated in
towing a trailer would likely require the addition of a transmission cooler,
and even then the stock (read standard) radiator would likely be overwhelmed
(IMHO). With the front wheels providing motivation as well as steering,
transferring some of the hitch weight to the front axle would almost be a
necessity (IMHO) for traction in adverse driving conditions.
I tried towing a Nomad trailer weighing 3,000 pounds with my Pontiac that
had a 4.1 liter V6, and it was simply overwhelmed by the trailer - - even
though it had a Reese hitch and all of the factory options to tow a 3,000
pound trailer. The maximum speed on flat, level highway was 44 MPH.
Good luck with your decision!
Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:33:26 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Bob,
Dr. G. pointed out that the UniVolt could well change voltage as the
capacitors age.
I'm gonna get a new I-P + C.W. for our "new" trailer, probably tomorrow.
<<Jim>>
My Airstream wrote:
> Jim & Roger,
> Thanks for all the feedback about the chargers available at Camping
> World. The sale lasts until the 21st of the month so I'll high tail it up
> to San Marcos and PU the 40 amp model and Charge Wizard.
>
> One last question. Why would Airstream state that their Univolt wouldn't
> overcharge when the darn things are legendary for boiling batteries? Is it
> just age? Also I haven't heard from Dr. G. and I'm sure he would know the
> answer to this question.
>
> Thanks again.
> Bob
> 66 Safari in Oceanside
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:37:19 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Tim,
I bought mine from Jade Mountain, I think it's
http://www.jademountain.com. You also need the 500 amp shunt to go along
with it. IIRC, the price was about $230.00 more or less, for both.
There are a number of similar units out there that provide the same
functions, but they're all priced about the same.
If you've looked at the pics of our '73 Avion, you've seen the control
panel that I built. It's mounted above the fridge, which is just behind
the door. I can see the eMeter while sitting on the couch, and I frankly
admit to finding it very entertaining to watch. I set it to wake up the
display whenever there's more than 1.5 amps of current flowing, so it's
awake most of the time we're in the trailer.
<<Jim>>
Tim Shephard wrote:
>>I have the 40-amp I-P, plus the Charge Wizard. No, the latter isn't much
>>to look at, but it works exactly as advertised. My eMeter tells me so.
>>
>
>
> Where do you get this emeter? Whats a good price for one?
>
> Thanks
>
> -Tim
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> eFax (508) 590-0302
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 37
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:46:35 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Bill,
I think that UniVolt is AirStream's name for whatever converter
they're using at the moment. I've had 2 different ones here:
One had a large transformer, 2 diodes, an SCR or Triac, and a little
printed circuit board that controlled the SCR/Triac. The board was bad,
allowing the thing to put out full voltage (about 16), cooking the battery.
The other one also had a large transformer and 2 diodes, but also
included a bank of 3 capacitors. It had a fuse panel on the end that
held all the branch circuit fuses and a shunt for the ammeter. This one
had the (in)famous "Airstream Hum", the other one was quiet.
Both were labeled "UniVolt", both came in AirStreams, but they were made
by different manufacturers. Both crapped out and are now in the junk pile.
They also weighed a ton, the Inteli-Power weighs about 4.5#.
<<Jim>>
William Jacobs wrote:
> Andy,
> There is more than one kind of Univolt. The one in my 76 Trade Wind is
> listed at 11.5 volt RMS out. It to is a ferroresonate unit. It will
> not over charge a battery. I have it plugged in now and it has been
> since last August when I put the trailer in storage. It will keep the
> battery up with out boiling the water out. One problem is that it takes
> a long time to charge the battery. It will supply about 55 amp but can
> only charge the battery at about 3 amp. It only supplies 16 volts peak
> and not very much power there. I believe that Univolt is a trade mark
> (Trade name) of General Signal but I am not sure.
> I have connected a varac to the input of this unit and the output did
> not change by more than 1/2 volt as I swung the input from 30 to 150
> volts. The regulation is very good.
> The second type of Univolt ( I have one of these also but do not use
> it. I am not sure that it says "Univolt" on it. is just a transformer
> and a diode. It has two big fuses on the front panel. There is no
> regulation at all and it will boil the battery dry. It is rated at 12
> volt RMS also.
> If you want a 1 page of 'Theory of Operation', I will send you one off
> list.
>
> bill
> 25 ft Trade wind in WV
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 38
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:49:50 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Grounding an IntelliPower Converter
John,
The ground connection should go to the frame of the trailer.
<<Jim>>
John Leggett wrote:
> On the advice of this list, I recently purchased and
> installed an I-P 9140 and the charge wizard - but have
> one outstanding question:
>
> To what do you connect the I-P independent chassis
> ground? The installation instructions specifically
> state you should not use the same ground as the output
> side to the 12v load.
>
> Do you ground it to a copper water line, or the
> trailer frame, or what?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> John Leggett
> 1968 Safari
> WBCCI #1154
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Health - your guide to health and wellness
> http://health.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 39
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:53:23 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: DC converters/chargers
Phil,
Just connect the output of the Inteli-Power to the battery and you're
good to go.
If you don't have one, now's the time to install a catastrophe fuse.
This should be fairly hefty, in the 40-amp range, and should be mounted
and connected as near to the battery as possible. It's usually
recommended that the fuse be in the Negative lead, but it doesn't make a
lot of difference.
<<Jim>>
Phil Renner wrote:
> All this discussion of Univolts and Chargers leads me to asking a dumb
> question as it relates to my '63 Overlander.
>
> My Overlander is pre-Univolt. The DC and AC systems are totally independent
> of each other with no charging of the battery except through auto alternator
> while towing. In order to add a dc converter/charger where is the best
> location to place it, and how would I actually wire it in?
>
> The battery box is on the street side and the AC hook up cable and fuse box
> is on the curb side. Shall I simply find a location where the AC of the
> converter can be plugged it, and then splice the dc output into what???
>
> The Overlander is still under "re-construction" and I have actually never
> used it, so my understanding of it's operation is an assumption on my part.
> Any recommendations as to configuring the electrical would be appreciated.
>
> Phil R
> Guilford, CT
> 63 Overlander
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 40
Date: Mon, 06 May 2002 16:56:34 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tongue set-up
Dick,
FWIW: I wouldn't run the wires inside the tongue if it's "boxed"
unless you can guarantee that no water will follow the cable into the
tongue. If it's just channel iron, that's different.
I replaced the entire 'A' frame on my A/S because of the umbilical
cord's being routed through the tongue. Rusted 'er all to hell, it did.
<<Jim>>
Dick and Kris Parins wrote:
> My Airstream had a very poorly fabricated battery holder behind the LP
> tanks. I am considering moving the LP tanks back and fabricating a new
> battery holder with an aluminum cover to sit in front of the tanks. This
> would put the wider tanks on the wider part of the tongue and the narrower
> battery on the narrow part of the tongue. Are there any potential problems
> with this change? I am re-wiring to the battery anyway so I would run the
> hot wire in the tongue channel making for a nice neat job. Any thoughts
> would be appreciated.
>
> Dick
> '62 Bambi
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 41
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 17:45:19 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: It's pouring
Bob, I got to ask. How did you get a $3,500 HUD grant to renovate your
Airstream? Is this a California deal or can anybody qualify?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 1:35
Subject: [VAC] It's pouring
> I come back from my Mexico vacation and there was no hot water pressure.
> Learned all about calcium from you great people. Now, all the bathroom
> fixtures are leaking. The toilet leaks and doesn't shut off unless I
really
> force it. On constant vigil to keep leaks from sogging up floor. That's
> the bad news.
>
> The good news is that I qualified for a HUD Grant up to $3500 for repairs.
> I am replacing the asbestos floor, pulling the A/C and patching the
ceiling
> and replacing the water heater and possibly all the copper and bathroom
> fixtures.
>
> I need (just short of deperately) to find California contractors who are
> sensitive to the unique qualities of vintage Airstream and WILL DO THE JOB
> ON SITE. I have no choice in this matter. I don't want to turn this over
> to a local hack who has never worked on an Airstream.
>
> The work has to be done by a licensed contractor. Please, if you have a
> lead on a good Airstream capable contractor I am in Oceanside, CA. Ready
to
> go.
>
> Bob Kiger
> 760 966-5081
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 42
Date: Mon, 6 May 2002 14:51:55 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Battery Chargers
Yikes. I'd love to have one, but I would have to sell a lot of my junk on
ebay to afford one ;-)
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Dunmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2002 1:37 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Battery Chargers
> Tim,
> I bought mine from Jade Mountain, I think it's
> http://www.jademountain.com. You also need the 500 amp shunt to go along
> with it. IIRC, the price was about $230.00 more or less, for both.
>
> There are a number of similar units out there that provide the same
> functions, but they're all priced about the same.
>
> If you've looked at the pics of our '73 Avion, you've seen the control
> panel that I built. It's mounted above the fridge, which is just behind
> the door. I can see the eMeter while sitting on the couch, and I frankly
> admit to finding it very entertaining to watch. I set it to wake up the
> display whenever there's more than 1.5 amps of current flowing, so it's
> awake most of the time we're in the trailer.
>
> <<Jim>>
>
> Tim Shephard wrote:
>
> >>I have the 40-amp I-P, plus the Charge Wizard. No, the latter isn't much
> >>to look at, but it works exactly as advertised. My eMeter tells me so.
> >>
> >
> >
> > Where do you get this emeter? Whats a good price for one?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > -Tim
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
> > eFax (508) 590-0302
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
> <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
> <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
> <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
> <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
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