VACList DigestVACList-Digest       Monday, September 9, 2002      Issue 420
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Re: pex size
        2. Re: 
        3. Re: Water Pressure
        4. Re: '62 Overlander/roof vents
        5. words of wisdom
        6. Bunk request
        7. Re: pex size
        8. Re: words of wisdom
        9. Re: Water Pressure
       10. Full bed in the middle - suggestions?
       11. Re: Water Pressure
       12. Re: Water Pressure
       13. Re: pex size
       14. Re: Rear Speaker Wires
       15. Re: pex size
       16. Re: Water Pressure
       17. Re: axles
       18. Re: pipe sizes and PEX
       19. any experience with service at DonMar?
       20. Re: any experience with service at DonMar?
       21. Re: Manabloc (was: pex size)
       22. Re: Manabloc (was: pex size)
       23. Aluminum Bright
       24. 62 safari
       25. PEX replacement for copper .  .  .
       26. Argosy Axle replacement
       27. Re: Argosy Axle replacement
       28. Re: Argosy Axle replacement
       29. Re: PEX replacement for copper .  .  .
       30. Re: Water Pressure
       31. Re: roof vents
       32. Re: Aluminum Bright
       33. Re: Argosy Axle replacement
       34. Re: Argosy Axle replacement
       35. Re: Rear Speaker Wires
       36. Stuck in Kamiah?, Who says!
       37. Stuck in Kamiah?, Who says!
       38. Re: Aluminum Bright
       39. Re: Stuck in Kamiah?, Who says!
       40. Re: Aluminum Bright
       41. prepping for compounding and polishing
       42. Re: prepping for compounding and polishing
       43. Re: pex size
       44. Re: Water Pressure
       45. Re: prepping for compounding and polishing
       46. Re: Backflow from demand pump
       47. Re: ody repairs and source for dinette that turns into bed
       48. Re: axles
       49. Re: Argosy Axle replacement




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 19:36:44 -0500
From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pex size

I went with the 1/2. I picked up the tubing and fittings at Lowes, Home Depo
also carries PEX. They only have the crimp type and the compression type
fittings. I wish I could have gone with the flair-it type but didn't want to
wait on a shipment. Worked on it today and got about halfway done. It's easy
to fit and run, just hope it won't leak. Thanks for all the advice.
Evans
62 sov

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
James Greene
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 8:18 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: pex size


Evans, following up on my first post, I was reading the instructions on
overhauling the Peters and Russell water pump in my ' 68 Tradewind and it
says to "use a minimum of 1/2" O.D. tubing or 3/8" pipe" including fittings.
I'm not sure what that means. Is there a difference in tubing and pipe? If
3/8" was adequate, why mention 1/2" since it exceeds the 3/8" minimum. I
still think 3/8" is sufficient for replumbing your Airstream and 1/2" is
supposed to be cheaper. Unless one size is easier to work/install, I'd still
use the less expensive size. That's just me.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 21:12
> Subject: [VAC] pex size
>
>
> > Well I've decided to redo all my plumbing. It looks like pex flair-it is
> the
> > way to go. Should I use 3/8 or 1/2? Most of the existing copper is 3/8
but
> > most supply houses carry 1/2.
> > Thanks,
> > Evans
> > 62 sovereign
> > 90 dodge 3/4 cummins 4x4
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>




To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text





------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 19:50:59 -0500
From: John Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 

Chuck, I fought for several years with my 2 roof vents with their various
problems, bought after market repair parts that were not quite the solution, and
finally took a cue from several people on this list and replaced them with 2
Fantastic Fans from Camping World.  Relatively easy to install, and thus far, I
think, a great improvement on the originals.

The center twin beds:  I had the same problem.  Finally removed everything from
the front (living room) of the trailer and put a nice queen size futon in.  It
is great for seating and lounging during the day, and it folds down at night to
form a very comfortable large bed for my wife and me.  Now the kids can have the
mid-coach bunks, which by the way at 74" long were a tight squeeze for me anyway
at six feet 2 and 1/2 inches.

Of course you can convert the mid-coach twins to a full size bed with a little
ingenuity. You might consider a Murphy bed that will fold straight up to form a
wall on one side when not in use; or take a look at the original design used by
Airstream for a pull-out fold-down "double" bed.  In fact you could probably
convert one of the existing bunks into a pull-out, and have a local custom
mattress factory build you a mattress to fit your exact dimensions.  It won't
leave you with much of an aisle for bathroom access, though.

Anyway, almost anything is possible if you are not trying to maintain your coach
absolutely "original."  Somebody out there has surely done exactly what you are
imagining.

John

chuck mclaughlin wrote:

>
> tomorrow,rick davis is delivering my deceased grandfathers airstream to me
> in maine from travellers rest in dade city<my grandfather used to be pres of
> n.e. chapter of wally byam caravan club in the 1960's> where it was in
> storage for over 6 years. it is a 1962 or so overlander with 2 twin beds in
> the middle.  we have two children, boy and girl, ages 7 and 8. we would like
> to have a full size bed for my wife and i in the middle-any suggestions on
> reconfiguring and or plans to do the same. the kids can always sleep on the
> floor. also, any suggestions about replacing the roof vents-rick davis said
> they are gone-thanks chuck mclaughlin
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 20:08:11 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

The Bernoulli principle, maybe?  Hmmmm, you got me thinking too.
Randy


> Thomas, unfortunately this practice will not protect your trailer from
> overpressurization at all.  A throttled valve or similar device only
reduces
> pressure when there is active flow in the system.  When the flow is halted
> at the point of use, e.g. by turning off the faucet in your trailer, the
> pressure equalizes all the way from the source through your entire system.
> The only result of a throttled supply valve is that it reduces flow and
> pressure when you most want it, i.e. when you are drawing water from the
> system.  You really need a regulator at the hose connection which will
open
> as flow is demanded, and close as flow demand is reduced, maintaining a
> relatively constant pressure on your system.
>
> Thomas LaVergne wrote:
>
> > When I suspect high water pressure at an RV Park I tend to only turn the
> > spigot on part way.  My onboard pressure valve works but I don't want
> > overextend it.
> > Thomas '79 Ambassador
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 21:18:57 -0000
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '62 Overlander/roof vents

Chuck,

Most people are replacing their deceased vents with fantastic vents. If they
are too pricey for you standard vents are available and should work well.

As for the bed, my wife and I converted the twin beds in our '60 Overlander
to a king size bed. There are four small platforms that sit between the beds
and 2 pieces of foam that fit nicely into place. The platforms stow away in
the rear closet and the foam pieces form "sofa bolsters" for the twin beds.
The only downside is that the kids would have to climb over (or under) your
bed to get to the bathroom. Pictures are available, just email me offlist.

Scott

Sep 2002 19:04:20 -0500
> From: chuck mclaughlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

  . ... it is a 1962 or so overlander with 2 twin beds in
> the middle.  we have two children, boy and girl, ages 7 and 8. we would
like
> to have a full size bed for my wife and i in the middle-any suggestions on
> reconfiguring and or plans to do the same. the kids can always sleep on
the
> floor. also, any suggestions about replacing the roof vents-rick davis
said
> they are gone-thanks chuck mclaughlin




------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 18:25:42 -0700
From: Pearl Main <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: words of wisdom

Hi Terry and Sandie:    My thoughts completely....we took the kids everywhere we
could and as they grew up started with grandchildren for a month during the
summer school vacation....  Now they tell me its my fault they like to travel
but they remember all of the interesting places we wandered to.   Every early
spring would ask where they wanted to explore in summer and then sent them maps
so they could do most  of the planning.....  like going up to Leadville Co on a
gravel road (over 9000')  then a couple of days later saying grandma there  is
ice on the water lets go where it is warm.     My 64   Soverign has been in all
48 states   lots of Nat'l Parks,
COE campgrounds,  farmers fields  etc   and tho I am slowing down still feel
that when I have to give up the trailer my life should be at an end     I don't
agree with some of the enviourmentalists but everyone has their own opinion.
When Earth
first had animal  and plant life it was not what is out there today and  setting
aside land to protect something from extinction forgetting that some new species
is in the future.   Not everything new is beneficial  (West Nile sketters)  but
remember if you
are 60 years old how many changes have developed over your life time.
Keep our wheels rolling      Pearl in soCal



------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 20:14:25 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bunk request


Eric wrote:

> Secondly,  I am looking for one or two canvas/alumin. frame suspended bunks.
> I have seen a style that mounted on the ceiling with a round metal plate.
> In that plate was a keyhole for a stranded metal wire that suspended the
> bunk.  On the wall are two J shaped cast aluminum hooks that hold the wall
> side of the bunk.  My father in law said I could borrow  one from his A/S
> but to do so I would have to take the hardware off his trailer and my kids
> (his grandkids) couldn't go on vacation with them.  Does anyone have these
> or are they still made?  As you can see it would solve our sleeping dilema
> for my son and daughter?


I looked at a Tradewind a while ago that had the plates and J shaped hooks
but no bunks.  The unit was pretty rough and I did not buy it.  I'm sure I
have the guys name and number if you would like to contact him about buying
just the hardware.  (assuming he did not sell it) Then the bunks could just
go with the kids regardless of the trailer.  If you would like a name and
number write me off-list.

Dick
'62 Bambi



------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 21:43:56 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pex size

Mat,

Thanks for the URL address for this company and it's products.  I'm very
impressed so far and I just may use this product when I replace *all* the
copper water lines in our '69 29' Airstream International Ambassador.  This
product looks ideal for keeping those mineral deposits out of the water
system and I especially like the fact that it will take a bit of freezing
without bursting.

Have you sought out this material here in the USA as of yet?  If so, who
carries it or do you think you'd have to deal directly with the company?

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Worner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 6:12 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: pex size


> Gerald et. al.,
>
> Take a look at:
>
>     http://www.vanguardpipe.com/index.html
>
> for the tubing and the "Manabloc" system.  I almost (but not quite) would
like
> to replace all my plumbing with this system just for the overall
convenience.
> If I ever do have to do any work in either trailer, or even another house
for
> that matter, that's the way I will go.
>
> gshippen wrote:
>
> > Hello guys,
> >
> > I've been following your discussions on the "pex".  Where would one
purchase
> > these materials?  Any other names involved?  How about the connectors to
the
> > faucets, etc?
> >  Thank you,
> >
> > GAS
>
> Matt
> --
> Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner
> WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971
> 1975 31' Sovereign, (The Tinsel Tubesteak)
> 1976 24' Argosy rear door (Bun Metallica)
> 2000 F-350 PSD
> Hensley Arrow
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 21:55:14 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: words of wisdom

on 09/08/02 9:25 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hi Terry and Sandie:    My thoughts completely....

Gracias, dear Friend,

Terry



------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 22:21:25 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

This is one of the laws of physics.  I'm not sure it's the Bernoulli
principal though but it may be, I'm a bit rusty without ready access to my
old books.

If you have high pressure, you will have low volume.  If you have high
volume, you will have low pressure.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 9:08 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Pressure


> The Bernoulli principle, maybe?  Hmmmm, you got me thinking too.
> Randy
>
>
> > Thomas, unfortunately this practice will not protect your trailer from
> > overpressurization at all.  A throttled valve or similar device only
> reduces
> > pressure when there is active flow in the system.  When the flow is
halted
> > at the point of use, e.g. by turning off the faucet in your trailer, the
> > pressure equalizes all the way from the source through your entire
system.
> > The only result of a throttled supply valve is that it reduces flow and
> > pressure when you most want it, i.e. when you are drawing water from the
> > system.  You really need a regulator at the hose connection which will
> open
> > as flow is demanded, and close as flow demand is reduced, maintaining a
> > relatively constant pressure on your system.
> >
> > Thomas LaVergne wrote:
> >
> > > When I suspect high water pressure at an RV Park I tend to only turn
the
> > > spigot on part way.  My onboard pressure valve works but I don't want
> > > overextend it.
> > > Thomas '79 Ambassador
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
text
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 23:21:47 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Full bed in the middle - suggestions?

on 09/08/02 8:04 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> tomorrow,rick davis is delivering my deceased grandfathers airstream to me in
> maine from travellers rest in dade city<my grandfather used to be pres of n.e.
> chapter of wally byam caravan club in the 1960's> where it was in storage for
> over 6 years. it is a 1962 or so overlander with 2 twin beds in the middle.
> we have two children, boy and girl, ages 7 and 8. we would like to have a full
> size bed for my wife and i in the middle-any suggestions on reconfiguring and
> or plans to do the same. the kids can always sleep on the floor. also, any
> suggestions about replacing the roof vents-rick davis said they are
> gone-thanks chuck mclaughlin
> 

Hi Chuck,

Unless you have a strong reason for NOT wanting to sleep up front (away from
the kids), the idea suggested by John Anderson would seem like a sensible
"first phase" solution. The benefit is - it could be accomplished easily in
an afternoon. 

If after a few trips, this arrangement turns out to be unsatisfactory, the
futon could replace one of the twins (assuming you selected a futon that
would fit in either location). One benefit would be plenty of walking space
during the day. That could be a significant plus.

My thinking comes from experience with our center bedroom floor plan. It
came with a permanent full size bed and mattress (curbside). There was very
little room to walk past it or open the closet doors on either side of the
vanity (streetside).

After scouring the countryside, I found another trailer (in a bone yard)
exactly like ours except the bed could be made into a couch during the day.
It had a two piece mattress with pillow storage in shams.

I did a complete swap of all the hardware with the owner. He didn't want any
money for the exchange because he had a bed where there was a bed - before I
came along. The fit in our trailer was perfect, including storage lockers
under the bed and the sliding mechanism.  It took me half a day to make the
exchange. 

An offshoot of this idea is what John suggested. You might want to create a
couch arrangement by modifying the twin bed hardware. It's commonly done by
RV manufacturers of other brands. This means finding one on a dealer's lot
and taking pictures of it could give you a leg up on increasing the
versatility of your twin bed.

A few years later after our swap was made, we came across a 3' X 2' island
table. This gives us additional work space during the day while sitting on
the couch. The wood grain and color was an exact match with our interior
woodwork. The island table came with a 3" circular socket that I screwed
into the floor, a table top with a matching circular socket (screwed into
the table's underside), and a circular chrome leg that inserts into each
socket when in use. I positioned the floor socket close to the couch's edge
when it was used as a couch, thereby not interfering with walking past the
table during the day. When not in use and the couch opened as a bed, the
table top and chrome leg slip into one of closets beside the vanity.

The installation is elegantly simple and easy. This modification turned out
to be one of the smarter things I've done. It enables either one of us to
sit on the couch with a hard, flat surface for project work and a soft
surface (the couch) for project supplies. Plus, nothing has to be put away
when it's time for meals (that used to be an annoying inconvenience).

Because you have a boy and a girl, this configuration could mean one of them
gets to sleep on the living room couch (instead of the floor). That would be
the ideal time to determine a "fair" way for who sleeps on the adjacent bunk
bed in the same area with Mom and Dad and who sleeps in the "privacy suite"
up front. <grin> This easily lends itself to lessons about games of chance
as well as "the laws of statistical probability" (one of my favorites).  Yes
- I know - we all have our quirks.

You are going to have a good time with this. I can see it coming already. We
have a boy and a girl also, which made for dynamics similar to what you must
be or will be experiencing.

Keep us posted on how you decide to modify and how you go about
accomplishing it, would you? I'm sure others will be interested, too.

New topic. Roof vents. There are at least three options to consider. You've
read about the fantastic fans. Second, you might want to only replace the
vent covers as part of "phase one."  Third, there are Lindeen Covers that
allow the vents to remain open when it's raining and not allow water inside.
The advantage of these covers is they don't break during hail storms. They
are made out of lexan (the stuff bullet proof vests are made of).

You were fortunate to have found Rick Davis available to deliver your
grandfather's trailer. He's often in high demand.

Traveler's Rest is one of the places where we've considered buying shares.
But, we haven't decided which of the available choices would work best for
us. 

Later, 

Terry

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]







 



------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 22:31:51 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

At 10:21 PM 9/8/02 -0400, you wrote:
>This is one of the laws of physics.  I'm not sure it's the Bernoulli
>principal though but it may be, I'm a bit rusty without ready access to my
>old books.
>
>If you have high pressure, you will have low volume.  If you have high
>volume, you will have low pressure.

         That's the one, Tom...Bernoulli.

- Dick
(5368)



------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2002 22:50:31 -0400
From: "Thomas LaVergne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure


----- Original Message -----
<From: John Anderson
Thomas, unfortunately this practice will not protect your trailer from
overpressurization at all.>

I never thought about that but as soon as I read your post it made sense.
Thanks!
Thomas



------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 22:07:52 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pex size

Since iron pipe as well as plastic pipe is connected by threading or
gluing the outside diameter, all the same trade sizes have the same
outside diameter for the same "size." E.g. 3/8" water pipe with standard
wall thickness is 0.675" O.D.. When the pipe is schedule 40, the inside
diameter is just over 3/8". Schedule 20 has a wall about half as thick,
so the inside diameter is larger. Schedule 80 has a wall about twice as
thick so the inside diameter is smaller. Schedule 20 in plastic is
sometimes called DWV for Drain, Waste, and Vent. Schedule 80 in steel is
often used for high pressure and high temperature, such as power plant
steam lines. But all 3/8" pipe uses the same threads, while the inside
varies in diameter according to the schedule of the wall thickness.
(www.mcmaster.com page 2)

Rigid copper pipe, types K, L, and M are soldered on the outside so
their outside diameters are the same with the wall thickness and inside
diameter vary. The trade size is the inside diameter of the Flexible
copper tubing, is not soldered, so the size is the inside diameter for
use with flare fittings, or for compression ring fittings. Type K has
the heaviest wall and the smallest inside diameter. The outsides of
rigid copper tend to run 1/8" larger than the "trade size". E.g. 1/2"
copper is 5/8" O.D. and the inside diameters are .527, .549, and .569
respectively. (www.mcmaster.com page 96).

Plumbing codes call for pipes large enough that opening a faucet at the
sink or flushing the toilet doesn't significantly change the flow at the
shower or visa versa. Modern plumbing codes then require flow
restrictors at shower heads and faucets to reduce the waste of water. In
a camper, we generally have FAR less water available so more flow
restriction is handy to make that water last longer, wasting far less
while waiting for hot water to come from the water heater or continuing
to flow while we reach to turn the faucet off. These water saving
considerations would argue for as small a pipe as practical (probably
1/4 is getting the flow too restricted). I'd vote for 3/8" tubing rather
than 1/2" or 3/4" just to minimize the volume in the pipe that has to be
wasted to move hot water from the water heater to the faucet. Remember
that in cross section, 1/2" pipe is nearly double the cross section of
3/8" and 3/4" has four times the cross section of 3/8" pipe.

I've been on the road, with an alternative ISP, but doing my e-mail by
connecting to my regular ISP from the internet, but that changed the
server's name and this list would not accept my posts, though others did
without complaint. Perhaps this one is a little too restrictive.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 22:08:01 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rear Speaker Wires

There have been drawings found for '69 Airstreams and someone on this
list has them on his website. I have downloaded them to my computer but
I don't know if they apply to '68 models at all.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 08 Sep 2002 22:08:04 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pex size

James Greene wrote:
> 
> Evans, following up on my first post, I was reading the instructions on
> overhauling the Peters and Russell water pump in my ' 68 Tradewind and it
> says to "use a minimum of 1/2" O.D. tubing or 3/8" pipe" including fittings.
> I'm not sure what that means. Is there a difference in tubing and pipe? If
> 3/8" was adequate, why mention 1/2" since it exceeds the 3/8" minimum. I
> still think 3/8" is sufficient for replumbing your Airstream and 1/2" is
> supposed to be cheaper. Unless one size is easier to work/install, I'd still
> use the less expensive size. That's just me.
> 
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
> 

1/2" tube is 3/8" inside diameter. 3/8" pipe is just a little over 3/8"
inside diameter.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 07:00:18 -0700
From: James Clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

I'm scratching my head as well, but I think everyone is talking about 
pressure drop across an orifice being proportional to the flow...ie... no 
flow, no pressure drop... high flow a lot of pressure drop...

It is certainly possible to have high flow and high pressure at the same 
time...like the plumbing in a fireboat... lots of water moving and lots of 
pressure...and lots of work done if someone wants to get into that one... 
(no motion, no work...)

Having a trailer with all the various systems will bring you right back up 
to speed on basic physics if you work on them much... I almost bought into 
putting a pressure gage on an LP tank until I realized that the pressure 
would be fairly constant until the tank was empty...I also remember 
relearning that water is not very compressible... I filled the tank to 
overflowing and then applied the gas station air hose that must have had a 
fairly high pressure setting....water all over the 
place....immediately....the demand pump is a lot easier on the nerves...

I am still having trouble understanding why two regulators in series is a 
problem... I use an external at the supply faucet and it seems to work 
fine... maybe my internal is stuck open... I know the demand pump will put 
water out the inlet on the trailer if I don't cap it... I don't think that 
is normal either...

Jim



At 10:21 PM 9/8/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>This is one of the laws of physics.  I'm not sure it's the Bernoulli
>principal though but it may be, I'm a bit rusty without ready access to my
>old books.
>
>If you have high pressure, you will have low volume.  If you have high
>volume, you will have low pressure.
>
>Tom
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 9:08 PM
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Pressure
>
>
> > The Bernoulli principle, maybe?  Hmmmm, you got me thinking too.
> > Randy
> >
> >
> > > Thomas, unfortunately this practice will not protect your trailer from
> > > overpressurization at all.  A throttled valve or similar device only
> > reduces
> > > pressure when there is active flow in the system.  When the flow is
>halted
> > > at the point of use, e.g. by turning off the faucet in your trailer, the
> > > pressure equalizes all the way from the source through your entire
>system.
> > > The only result of a throttled supply valve is that it reduces flow and
> > > pressure when you most want it, i.e. when you are drawing water from the
> > > system.  You really need a regulator at the hose connection which will
> > open
> > > as flow is demanded, and close as flow demand is reduced, maintaining a
> > > relatively constant pressure on your system.
> > >
> > > Thomas LaVergne wrote:
> > >
> > > > When I suspect high water pressure at an RV Park I tend to only turn
>the
> > > > spigot on part way.  My onboard pressure valve works but I don't want
> > > > overextend it.
> > > > Thomas '79 Ambassador
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > > >
> > > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
>text
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 00:07:58 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: axles

Jon wrote:

" Does anyone have a fairly new unit or a Vintage unit
 with new axles?  If so, I would like to know what the
 angle of the axles is on these units."

Hi Jon,

I put the trailer on the ramps today and struggled with measurements of the
"axle assembly".  I measure the outside of the dura torque assembly as 61-
9/16 inches.  The mid axle measurement perpendicular to the across
measurement is 1 - 3/4 inches.  My calculations for the cosine of the
measurements was less than .0175. I don't have charts to convert this to
degrees, but it seems like it will be between 1 and 2 degrees.  Sure hope
someone on the list knows the actual degree of the axle.

The bracket is welded to the outside of the frame and is necessary element
for replacement.

You may be talking about the angle of the torque assembly rather than the
arch of the axle.  If so, my torsion assembly is at near "0" degrees with
the wheel off the ground.  With the wheel on the ground, there's at least a
5 degree positive list.  Meaning that the axles are shot!  There might be a
slight torsion before the upper stop, but it's  not enough to keep from
destroying the Argosy.  I see a lot of damage caused by the condition.

This doesn't answer  your question, but just a look see at the torsion arms
will tell you what the condition of your dura torque axle is in.

                                         Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy





------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 06:06:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pipe sizes and PEX

Although Gary already spelled out the details, let me
put this another way.  The topic of pipe and tubing
sizes is often confusing.

Pipe is sized according to inside diameter.  So, in
theory, a nominal 3/8" pipe will have an ID of 3/8". 
Pretty simple so far, right?

The trouble is that pipe is available in a variety of
wall thicknesses.  Some applications require really
thick walls, while others don't need the added
material expense.  But, folks would like to be able to
use the same fittings for all 3/8" pipes, regardless
of the wall thickness.  SO, in order to do this, all
pipe is made to a standardized OD which will result in
the NOMINAL ID if the standard wall thickness is
selected.  Got it?! :)

Tubing is more straightforward.  It is sized by OD. 
You can pick a variety of ID's for the same OD based
on wall thickness.  Copper is a good example of this,
with at least three wall thicknesses I know of, two of
which are available at most hardware stores.

I think the issue with PEX tubing size will have a lot
more to do with the ID and number of fittings.  When
you do piping loss calcs, you'll find fittings create
much more loss than the pipe they work with.  I
suspect the 1/2" PEX is fine--IF the fittings have a
large ID.  (My entire household is supplied from the
main by a single 1/2" copper line.  But, of course,
that's at city water pressure.)

Let me second the opinion of Joy about valves and
other fittings.  It's worth the money to buy them with
bigger ID's when you are using precious battery power
to push water through them.  So, unless you plan to
use full hookups, I'd look carefully at the fittings. 
This may require the larger diameter pipe, but not for
the pipe's sake.

Jon in SC
68 Overlander

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 06:35:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: any experience with service at DonMar?

I have been considering whether or not to have some
repairs on my unit done by a dealer (frame separation,
floor repair, tank re-installation, possible frame
reinforcement).  The nearest dealer is DonMar (I'm in
Columbia, SC).

Has anyone had service work done by DonMar?  What was
it?  Were you happy with it?

Alternatively, is there another dealer "nearby" (let's
say a day's drive max) that you would give an
unqualified recommendation for?

Feel free to reply off list if you prefer.

Jon in SC
68 Overlander

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 10:25:46 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: any experience with service at DonMar?

Out-of Doors-Mart in Greensboro, NC located off of I-40 is the authorized
Airstream dealer near us, Jon.  They do good work from what I've heard.

Tom in NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "jon fitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 9:35 AM
Subject: [VAC] any experience with service at DonMar?


> I have been considering whether or not to have some
> repairs on my unit done by a dealer (frame separation,
> floor repair, tank re-installation, possible frame
> reinforcement).  The nearest dealer is DonMar (I'm in
> Columbia, SC).
>
> Has anyone had service work done by DonMar?  What was
> it?  Were you happy with it?
>
> Alternatively, is there another dealer "nearby" (let's
> say a day's drive max) that you would give an
> unqualified recommendation for?
>
> Feel free to reply off list if you prefer.
>
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
> http://finance.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 10:26:47 -0500
From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Manabloc (was: pex size)

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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        charset="iso-8859-1"

I was leaning towards using this system too as a result of 
the previous discussions in here.  But, after looking into it 
for awhile, I decided against it.  The block itself is not 
very big, but the way the lines come into it means that you 
need a fairly large area to install it.  There was no way 
I could fit it into my rear trunk and have it serviceable. 

Considered some other locations, like under the bed, or in a 
closet floor, but finally decided that I liked the simplicity 
of the original water supply runs.  Ended up grafting on a PEX 
duplicate of the original lines just past the stock regulator 
and drain valve cluster.

I'm not saying it can't be done.  I'm just chiming in to 
suggest working up a complete plan before yanking out what's 
already there. 

Jimbo / '76 Sovereign

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Worner [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>
>    http://www.vanguardpipe.com/index.html
>
>for the tubing and the "Manabloc" system.  I almost (but not quite) would
like
>to replace all my plumbing with this system just for the overall
convenience.
>If I ever do have to do any work in either trailer, or even another house
for
>that matter, that's the way I will go.


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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2654.89">
<TITLE>RE: [VAC] Manabloc (was: Re: pex size)</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I was leaning towards using this system too as a =
result of </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>the previous discussions in here.&nbsp; But, after =
looking into it </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>for awhile, I decided against it.&nbsp; The block =
itself is not </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>very big, but the way the lines come into it means =
that you </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>need a fairly large area to install it.&nbsp; There =
was no way </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>I could fit it into my rear trunk and have it =
serviceable. </FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Considered some other locations, like under the bed, =
or in a </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>closet floor, but finally decided that I liked the =
simplicity </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>of the original water supply runs.&nbsp; Ended up =
grafting on a PEX </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>duplicate of the original lines just past the stock =
regulator </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>and drain valve cluster.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I'm not saying it can't be done.&nbsp; I'm just =
chiming in to </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>suggest working up a complete plan before yanking =
out what's </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>already there. </FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Jimbo / '76 Sovereign</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: Matt Worner [<A =
HREF=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]=
et</A>]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A =
HREF=3D"http://www.vanguardpipe.com/index.html"; =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://www.vanguardpipe.com/index.html</A></FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;for the tubing and the &quot;Manabloc&quot; =
system.&nbsp; I almost (but not quite) would like</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;to replace all my plumbing with this system just =
for the overall convenience.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;If I ever do have to do any work in either =
trailer, or even another house for</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;that matter, that's the way I will go.</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
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------------------------------

Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 09:35:36 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Manabloc (was: pex size)

Don't forget all those drain valves! They can be very handy
winterproofing the system.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 11:54:06 -0500
From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Aluminum Bright

My father-in-law works for a tractor trailer Mfg. He carries a product
called Aluminum Bright that they use on trailers. Has anyone had any
experiance using this product on airstreams? I suspect there is a good
reason people spend hrs. polishing but I thought I'd ask.
Thanks,
Evans
62 sov



------------------------------

Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 08:25:43 -0700
From: Sharon Chaytor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 62 safari

I sure like this group so far, reminds me of my horse lists, with lots of 
helpful people, and a sense of community...

Anyway. Thanks for the notes re what to look for in this 62 that we are 
looking at, and the discussion on axles is very timely for us, as well!

This 62 has a single axle, and seems to ride quite low (tires are low, and 
the axle could be shot) Anyone gone and put a second axle on? And, raised 
up the trailer, so it rides higher? We like to do a bit of off roading, and 
like clearance. One of the reasons why we were looking at airstreams was 
the general sturdiness of the trailer.

Oh, and we are taking the appliances as not working, as the fellow who is 
selling it does not know if they work or not.

Sharon, in BC
airstreamless, but getting closer!



------------------------------

Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 13:06:43 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: PEX replacement for copper .  .  .

Hi All,

While the Quest tubing was discontinued some years ago and mostly
unavailable, the Quest fittings are widely used for connecting PEX.  The
Quest fittings have a stainless forcing ring inside that grips the PEX and
keeps the tube from loosening.  The seal is made through what seems to be a
teflon bevel that is squeezed against the PEX tube and the Quest body.  It's
important that the fittings only be tightened until a squeak is heard.  Not
much more than hand tight.

Quest also makes valves that are useful in PEX installations as they do not
require a compression tool.  In fact, it's possible to use Quest fittings
for most all PEX connections.

For faucet connections, I found that a PEX adapter from 1/2 inch to the 1/2
inch pipe found on most faucets is available.  It uses a hard white rubber
wedge to seal the fitting against the 1/2 inch faucet stub.  I used these to
connect faucets and water pumps.

I've found Lowe's sorely lacking in PEX tube as compared to local contractor
plumbing supply shops.

Hope this helps someone out there!

                   Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy



------------------------------

Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 13:59:09 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Argosy Axle replacement

Hi All,

Well, the '74 Argosy is headed for the trash heap due to the high cost of
replacement axles.  The cost of the axles if not identified for an Airstream
of more than 20 years old was $350 from a local RV dealership.  From
Inland RV, the cost is $800 plus shipping.  I find the cost difference
unacceptable - near $1000 for the tandem axles of the Argosy.  I'm unsure if
I will continue restoration of the '69 Safari for the same reason.

Guess it's time to start looking at Avion or other travel trailers where
contracts for running gear don't make restoration impractical!

                                     Disappointment rules, Joy




------------------------------

Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 12:11:43 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Argosy Axle replacement

It may be that the axles can be recovered without replacement. If the
shock mounts are sturdy, look into adding springs around the shocks, or
buying shocks with built on springs, as used for off road trucks. It
doesn't matter to the suspension whether the springs are on the axles or
are external on the shocks. Hot rod catalogs show shock springs in
various load ratings, though NAPA has only one load rating. Last
Saturday I found a set in my dad's garage that I'd used on a hot VW
about 30 years ago. Might work well on my Caravel, if I can fit them in
the available space. If one can find shocks with factory springs, the
fittings will be a little more compact than the lowest cost after market
springs. An other alternative might be shocks that include air for added
springing. They are handily adjustable with a simple air hose and more
compact than shocks surrounded by springs.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 12:41:30 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Argosy Axle replacement

Why don't you sell one trailer and use that money for new axles, that way
you won't have to start all over with an unfamilier trailer......

Ken Johansen
5358
59 Traveler
75 Tradewind



>
>Well, the '74 Argosy is headed for the trash heap 
> 
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 29
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 11:57:55 -0700
From: "Tim  Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: PEX replacement for copper .  .  .

I have about decided to go with CPVC for the main runs and elbows, tees,
valves, etc...

Then use transitions to go to PEX for the sinks and toilets since
flexibility there would be desireable.

CPVC fittings are around $1 average where the Flair-Its are $4 on average.

Just another way to do it.

-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302






------------------------------

Message Number: 30
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 12:24:23 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

E. Bernoulli's Principle

Key Concepts
Streamlining involves reducing the turbulence that results when a fluid
flows. In streamlined (laminar) flow, the fluid behaves as if it consisted
of thin sheets of fluid. The interchange of fluid between the sheets is
minimal in streamlined flow.

When turbulent flow occurs, whirlpools and eddies form. Turbulence results
in extra drag on objects moving through a fluid.

The study of forces and pressures that change the motion of fluids is called
hydrodynamics. The study of streamlining objects in air is called
aerodynamics.

An incompressible, inviscid fluid which moves into a region having a
different cross-sectional area (A) undergoes a change in speed (v). The
product A � v remains constant.

P1A1v1 = P2A2v2

If the fluid is incompressible, P1 = P2 and they cancel to give:

A1v1 = A2v2 (equation of continuity)

For the speed to undergo change, there must be a change in force. A change
in force results in a change in pressure.

The (lateral) pressure exerted by an incompressible fluid varies inversely
with the square of the speed of the fluid. (Bernoulli's principle)

Bernoulli's equation:

P + �v2 + gh = constant

If there is no change in elevation, gh = 0, so that P + �v2 = constant

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 7:21 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Pressure


> This is one of the laws of physics.  I'm not sure it's the Bernoulli
> principal though but it may be, I'm a bit rusty without ready access to my
> old books.
>
> If you have high pressure, you will have low volume.  If you have high
> volume, you will have low pressure.
>
> Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 9:08 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Water Pressure
>
>
> > The Bernoulli principle, maybe?  Hmmmm, you got me thinking too.
> > Randy




------------------------------

Message Number: 31
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 12:35:24 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: roof vents

I recently installed the Fantastic Vent "Create-a-Breeze", the least
expensive and simplest in their lineup.  I am very pleased with it's ability
to quietly evacuate a lot of air out of the roof vent.

I remember back before my stock Airstream bathroom fan stopped working that
it too did a good job of moving air through the coach.  Now I'm wondering
whether the Airstream vent fan pulled air in from the vent or sucked air
out.
Anybody know?

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA

From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: '62 Overlander/roof vents


> Chuck,
> Most people are replacing their deceased vents with fantastic vents. If
they
> are too pricey for you standard vents are available and should work well.




------------------------------

Message Number: 32
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 12:44:33 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Bright

When I'm shooting up I-5 and these spotless aluminum trailers and tankers go
by, I always wondered how they KEEP them so shiny.  I'd love to hear more
about Aluminum Bright.

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 9:54 AM
Subject: [VAC] Aluminum Bright


> My father-in-law works for a tractor trailer Mfg. He carries a product
> called Aluminum Bright that they use on trailers. Has anyone had any
> experiance using this product on airstreams? I suspect there is a good
> reason people spend hrs. polishing but I thought I'd ask.
> Thanks,
> Evans
> 62 sov
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 33
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 15:52:50 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Argosy Axle replacement


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I am not supprised about the price From inland. Looking under my trailer I 
believe that using a little Yankee Ingenuity there are other solutions. Go to 
some who builds heavy dutity utility trailers And have him take a look I dont 
think that it would be impossable to convert to leaf springs and shackles. 
Too many people who clame to be mechanics are mearly part changers and if an 
exact replacement is not avalable they have no clew. 
2ndly Try to buy direct or make friends with a trailer manufacture who mite 
be able to buy a set O.E.M. O E M price at least in the marine busness was 
50%+10% off list.
Dont give up there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Jim Smith
!965 Tradewind (the Silver Abaltross1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" 
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I am not supprised about the price From inland. Looking under my 
trailer I believe that using a little Yankee Ingenuity there are other solutions. Go 
t2ndly Try to buy direct or make friends with a trailer manufacture who mite be able 
to buy a set O.E.M. O E M price at least in the marine busness was 50%+10% off 
list.<BR>
Dont give up there is more than one way to skin a cat.<BR>
Jim Smith<BR>
!965 Tradewind (the Silver Abaltross1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel</P></FONT></HTML>

--part1_11a.1673bd67.2aae5612_boundary--


------------------------------

Message Number: 34
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 14:01:00 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Argosy Axle replacement

To be more specific:

trail master suspension sells a "4way" shock with close fitting
adjustable spring. I don't know if they sell one to fit the front of a
'69 chevy half ton pickup or not. They also sell a horizontal shock with
spring intended for a motor home steering stabilizer. That might work on
Airstreams with horizontal shocks.

PRO shocks has springs to fit over shocks in three lengths, and various
spring rates from 100# to 500#.

Monroe Sensa-Track 58000 series load adjusting shocks have springs.
Monroe Mas-Air take up to 150 PSI air to add a few hundred pounds load
capability.

Surely more than one of these options can take over the spring loading
from the softened rubber pucks without destroying a budget, or breaking
the shock mounts.

Gerald J.
-- 
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.


------------------------------

Message Number: 35
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 16:50:38 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Rear Speaker Wires

Dr. J, I found the diagrams for the ' 74 Airstreams but I haven't found
anything for the 1960s  trailers. Maybe who ever has the information will
let me know.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2002 23:08
Subject: [VAC] Re: Rear Speaker Wires


> There have been drawings found for '69 Airstreams and someone on this
> list has them on his website. I have downloaded them to my computer but
> I don't know if they apply to '68 models at all.
>
> Gerald J.




------------------------------

Message Number: 36
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 13:55:42 -0700
From: Jeffrey Engle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Stuck in Kamiah?, Who says!

        Somebody recently told me about "www.workampers.com", My wife and I 
have no kids, live in our Airstream full time, have no bills that can't 
be taken care of in a few months, I'm 40, she's 30, have our AS 
completely redone with a tow rig that runs great and has had major work 
done in the last 2 yrs. as well... sounds like a recipe to me!, not to 
mention I'm married to the one wife in a zillion that loves this 
"lifestyle" as much as I do.
        I've been struggling all my life to get that perfect career, but 
after collage, ended back in the same boat I started, low-end jobs, no 
retirement...Then I thought, "I can go
anywhere and do those kinds of jobs" why not make the best of it and 
have some adventure while we're still young enough to enjoy it? Sure 
retirement is a big issue and not to be taken lightly at my age, but at 
the same time, I'm not making any great headway in that department 
sitting here unemployed anyway. I'd venture to say that working at 
anything right now would be beneficial all the way around. So on that 
note, those club get together's aren't  as far off as I thought..
        If there's anybody out there who's done this sort of thing, I would 
appreciate hearing from you!.......Jeff & Daile



------------------------------

Message Number: 37
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 13:55:42 -0700
From: Jeffrey Engle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Stuck in Kamiah?, Who says!

        Somebody recently told me about "www.workampers.com", My wife and I 
have no kids, live in our Airstream full time, have no bills that can't 
be taken care of in a few months, I'm 40, she's 30, have our AS 
completely redone with a tow rig that runs great and has had major work 
done in the last 2 yrs. as well... sounds like a recipe to me!, not to 
mention I'm married to the one wife in a zillion that loves this 
"lifestyle" as much as I do.
        I've been struggling all my life to get that perfect career, but 
after collage, ended back in the same boat I started, low-end jobs, no 
retirement...Then I thought, "I can go
anywhere and do those kinds of jobs" why not make the best of it and 
have some adventure while we're still young enough to enjoy it? Sure 
retirement is a big issue and not to be taken lightly at my age, but at 
the same time, I'm not making any great headway in that department 
sitting here unemployed anyway. I'd venture to say that working at 
anything right now would be beneficial all the way around. So on that 
note, those club get together's aren't  as far off as I thought..
        If there's anybody out there who's done this sort of thing, I would 
appreciate hearing from you!.......Jeff & Daile



------------------------------

Message Number: 38
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 16:59:51 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Bright

Some of those are stainless steel tankers and reefers.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 3:44 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Aluminum Bright


> When I'm shooting up I-5 and these spotless aluminum trailers and tankers
go
> by, I always wondered how they KEEP them so shiny.  I'd love to hear more
> about Aluminum Bright.
>
> Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 9:54 AM
> Subject: [VAC] Aluminum Bright
>
>
> > My father-in-law works for a tractor trailer Mfg. He carries a product
> > called Aluminum Bright that they use on trailers. Has anyone had any
> > experiance using this product on airstreams? I suspect there is a good
> > reason people spend hrs. polishing but I thought I'd ask.
> > Thanks,
> > Evans
> > 62 sov
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 39
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 17:17:11 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Stuck in Kamiah?, Who says!

Jeff,

Join the Airstream List at Yahoogroups.com www.groups.yahoo.com and sign up
with a name and password of your choice.

Hunter runs the Airstream List at Yahoogroups.com and she does have friends
who are or have been involved with the "workampers" before.  They lead a
very interesting life and some of them even work out of their trailers.
Sound like something you'd like?

Hope to see you on the Airstream List.  I'm going to forward this message to
the list owner, Hunter Hampton.  Her email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
I'm sure she will write you back if you write to her first about wanting to
join the Airstream List.

Tom Meeker
WBCCI 5303

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Engle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 4:55 PM
Subject: [VAC] Stuck in Kamiah?, Who says!


> Somebody recently told me about "www.workampers.com", My wife and I
> have no kids, live in our Airstream full time, have no bills that can't
> be taken care of in a few months, I'm 40, she's 30, have our AS
> completely redone with a tow rig that runs great and has had major work
> done in the last 2 yrs. as well... sounds like a recipe to me!, not to
> mention I'm married to the one wife in a zillion that loves this
> "lifestyle" as much as I do.
> I've been struggling all my life to get that perfect career, but
> after collage, ended back in the same boat I started, low-end jobs, no
> retirement...Then I thought, "I can go
> anywhere and do those kinds of jobs" why not make the best of it and
> have some adventure while we're still young enough to enjoy it? Sure
> retirement is a big issue and not to be taken lightly at my age, but at
> the same time, I'm not making any great headway in that department
> sitting here unemployed anyway. I'd venture to say that working at
> anything right now would be beneficial all the way around. So on that
> note, those club get together's aren't  as far off as I thought..
> If there's anybody out there who's done this sort of thing, I would
> appreciate hearing from you!.......Jeff & Daile
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 40
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 14:56:23 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aluminum Bright

I'm only talking about the aluminum ones.  The ones that use "Aluminum
Bright" polish.  But I do get your message :)

Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA

> Some of those are stainless steel tankers and reefers.
>
> Tom
>
> > When I'm shooting up I-5 and these spotless aluminum trailers and
tankers
> go
> > by, I always wondered how they KEEP them so shiny.  I'd love to hear
more
> > about Aluminum Bright.
> >
> > Bob Kiger  http://cruiserbob.com

> > From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [VAC] Aluminum Bright
> > > My father-in-law works for a tractor trailer Mfg. He carries a product
> > > called Aluminum Bright that they use on trailers.



------------------------------

Message Number: 41
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 16:03:04 -0600
From: Ken Roth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: prepping for compounding and polishing

hi there:  I've put up some pix of my 69 globetrotter with 'new' 
interior and clearcoat stripped for polishing.  these are the 'BEFORE' 
pix which I'm hoping will show just how dramatically different the rig 
looks after polishing.  you can see the images at 
www.kenroth.com/globe.html.  if you've got suggestions or caveats at 
this stage, I'd love to hear them.

thanks.
________________
Ken Roth
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
415.550.6958
503.709.5373 (cell)



------------------------------

Message Number: 42
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 16:57:12 -0600
From: Maxwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: prepping for compounding and polishing

Ken Roth wrote:

> hi there:  I've put up some pix of my 69 globetrotter with 'new' 
> interior and clearcoat stripped for polishing.  these are the 'BEFORE' 
> pix which I'm hoping will show just how dramatically different the rig 
> looks after polishing.  you can see the images at 
> www.kenroth.com/globe.html.  if you've got suggestions or caveats at 
> this stage, I'd love to hear them.
>
> thanks.

Ken ~

The interior looks great!  You've done a terrific job so far...can't 
wait to see the results of your polishing efforts!  We're hoping to do 
ours yet this year, we've stripped and are getting ready to 
compound/polish using the same products/technique...we'll see!  Good 
luck, keep us posted!

-- 
Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
WBCCI #1824, VAC
www.InsideOut-Design.net/Maxwell





------------------------------

Message Number: 43
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 18:59:14 -0400
From: Matt Worner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: pex size



Tom wrote:

> Mat,
>
> <snip>
>
> Have you sought out this material here in the USA as of yet?  If so, who
> carries it or do you think you'd have to deal directly with the company?

No occasion to buy yet, thank goodness, just intellectual curiosity at this
point.  Followed their distributor search and found a supply house just 5 miles
down the road though.  Searching by product (Manabloc) came back with over 500
hits.  Seems like finding a dealer shouldn't be too hard.

If you can't find a place near you, let me know and I'll investigate the local
dealer here (north Jersey) and see what is the scoop.

By the way, instruction manuals are on their site as well. (In .pdf)

>
>
> Tom
>

<snip>

Matt
--
Pam, Matt and Darrell Worner
WBCCI, VAC, WNJU & WDCU #4971
1975 31' Sovereign, (The Tinsel Tubesteak)
1976 24' Argosy rear door (Bun Metallica)
2000 F-350 PSD
Hensley Arrow




------------------------------

Message Number: 44
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 18:13:59 -0500
From: John Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure

What a great topic!  Wouldn't an Airstream trailer and all its systems make a
great high school physics lab?  Actually, I'm a bit nervous about wandering off
topic and facing inevitable (and probably appropriate) chastisement.

The principle behind all of this is, like James Clark said, flow in a fluid
system is proportional to (the square root of) the change in pressure resulting
from any flow restriction in the system, such as an orifice, throttled valve,
pipe elbow, or even the pipe itself.  Of course, there are multipliers based on
the size and characteristics of the orifice and of the fluid.  But all we really
need to know is that when flow ceases in a filled system, there is no longer any
pressure drop (other than associated with changes in elevation combined with the
force of gravity, etc., as Cruiser Bob notes).  So we need a variable orifice
(regulator) that is smart and quick enough to keep up with our irregular habits
of water use and keep our tubes intact.

I actually never gave much thought to excessive park water pressure until one
day I hooked up in a new park and saw water streaming out a point on the bottom
of my trailer as soon as I opened the hose bib.  It took me a while to figure
out that it was my water heater relief valve lifting, from the high park water
pressure.  So there is an argument for not plugging your water heater relief!

One problem with multiple regulators is that they all have a time function,
i.e., they are designed to work fairly fast, but they don't respond
instantaneously to changes in pressure.  So with two in a system, they can force
each other into an oscillation that would spit out no more than a few dribbles
of water at a time.

John



------------------------------

Message Number: 45
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:12:17 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: prepping for compounding and polishing

Ken,

Your trailer is looking terrific.  I really like the way you installed the
wood floor from side to side versus lengthwise.

What's up with the Airstream film you made?  Is it readily available to
others?

Tom in NC

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Roth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 6:03 PM
Subject: [VAC] prepping for compounding and polishing


> hi there:  I've put up some pix of my 69 globetrotter with 'new'
> interior and clearcoat stripped for polishing.  these are the 'BEFORE'
> pix which I'm hoping will show just how dramatically different the rig
> looks after polishing.  you can see the images at
> www.kenroth.com/globe.html.  if you've got suggestions or caveats at
> this stage, I'd love to hear them.
>
> thanks.
> ________________
> Ken Roth
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 415.550.6958
> 503.709.5373 (cell)
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 46
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 18:23:38 -0500
From: John Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Backflow from demand pump

James, my trailer developed this problem also a year ago.  There is an angle
(check) valve on the line from the hose attachment to the cold water main in the
trailer, and it appears to have failed internally.  Do you have a similar valve?
It does not look very hard to replace; I just haven't taken the time to do it.  In
fact it may just be stuck open with a piece of mineral, and could be cleaned and
reinstalled.

James Clark wrote:

> ... I know the demand pump will put
> water out the inlet on the trailer if I don't cap it... I don't think that
> is normal either...
>



------------------------------

Message Number: 47
Date: Mon, 09 Sep 2002 19:28:01 -0500
From: chuck mclaughlin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ody repairs and source for dinette that turns into bed

on 9/7/02 7:04 PM, VACList at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> -Digest       Saturday, September 7, 2002      Issue 418
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> 1. Re: Classic Airstream Club misinformation
> 2. Re: The Plan - 9/6
> 3. Stuck in Kamiah?#**##??
> 4. Re: Introduction/ Piano Hinge/ & Bunk Request
> 5. Re: My airstream Pictures..
> 6. Re: Stuck in Kamiah?#**##??
> 7. Re: Introduction/ Piano Hinge/ & Bunk Request
> 8. Re: Stuck in Kamiah?#**##??
> 9. ".....what do you guys do?"
> 10. Water purifier-filter pipe dream
> 11. Re: Plumbing
> 12. Re: Water purifier-filter pipe dream
> 13. Introduction, and 62 safari?
> 14. Re: Network Associates Webshield -  e-mail Content Alert,
> 15. Re: unk Request
> 16. Re: Introduction, and 62 safari?
> 17. Vintage Airstream Available
> 18. Re: Hammock Bunks
> 
> 
rick davis just delivered my grandfathers 62 overlander-all in all just as i
remembered it-it also had wally byam badges for my sister and myself from
about 35 years ago on a trip to bensons animal farm. i was wondering if
anyone had plans or sources for a dinette which would convert to a bed for
the front of the airstream. the current design on both this and my
globetrotter has what i believe is a goucho and it seems to be a flawed
design in that the bed does not look very comfortable for 2 and it requires
a seperate table to eat.  the next item is that the front  part of the
trailer body seems to be loose from the frame and when you shake the
tongue of the trailer the body bounces a bid. upon inspection i noticed that
an angle iron had been bolted from under the tongue into another angle iron
on top of the floor boards and that old fix was loose. in removing the
gaucho i could see that the inner skin had seperated from the floor. i could
not see the condition of the outer skin were it met the floor due to the
under body skin and various trim parts. as i can bearly figure out a
screwdriver i am looking for suggestions as to what is the fix and what type
of buisness can do the work<we live in southern maine>. if the fix entails
removing a portion of the belly skin would it be best to remove all of the
belly skin,inspect floor and replace plumbing with pex and coat frame with
por 15 or someother rust treatment-the step into the trailer is broken due
to rust but in general the rust does  not seem too bad. at this point i am
signing off-i am sure i will have more soon-thanks chuck mclughlin   



------------------------------

Message Number: 48
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:48:11 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: axles

Hi Jon,

You mentioned an Airstream dealership in Columbus, SC.  I heard of  an RV
dealership that had many salvage Airstreams.  Have you been to the Columbus
dealership?  If you have  phone number, I'd appreciate you sending it to me.

Since the axles after mid '74 last forever, maybe .  .  .

                         Regards, Joy




------------------------------

Message Number: 49
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2002 19:36:55 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Argosy Axle replacement

Joy, it's my understanding that the Henchen (sp) axles used on Airstreams
and Argosys are also used on some other SOB trailers, larger utility
trailers, horse trailers, etc. Since everything RV is double the price, I'd
suggest checking with the folks that make horse trailers to see if they have
the axles and what pricing they offer. There has to be more than one source
for axles.

Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 13:59
Subject: [VAC] Argosy Axle replacement


> Hi All,
>
> Well, the '74 Argosy is headed for the trash heap due to the high cost of
> replacement axles.  The cost of the axles if not identified for an
Airstream
> of more than 20 years old was $350 from a local RV dealership.  From
> Inland RV, the cost is $800 plus shipping.  I find the cost difference
> unacceptable - near $1000 for the tandem axles of the Argosy.  I'm unsure
if
> I will continue restoration of the '69 Safari for the same reason.
>
> Guess it's time to start looking at Avion or other travel trailers where
> contracts for running gear don't make restoration impractical!
>
>                                      Disappointment rules, Joy




------------------------------


End of VACList-Digest  #420
************************************



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