VACList DigestVACList-Digest Sunday, September 1, 2002 Issue 412
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Local news story
2. Remove caulking
3. Remove caulking
4. Stove problem solved
5. Argosy-Fuse Box
6. Re: Remove caulking
7. Interesting WBCCI Rally Publication - - 1976
8. Re: Interesting WBCCI Rally Publication - - 1976
9. Re: Remove caulking
10. Brake Controller - Prodigy
11. Water Heater Cover
12. 62 curtain rod tabs
13. Re: Water Heater Cover
14. High Mileage Unit
15. Bicycle Carriers
16. Re: High Mileage Unit
17. VACList guidleines
18. Re: Water Heater Cover
19. Re: High Mileage Unit
20. Walmart Tongue Jack
21. Re: Bicycle Carriers
22. Wiring IntellPower into 64 GT
23. Re: Bicycle Carriers
24. Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
25. Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
26. Re: Brake Controller - Prodigy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 20:25:52 -0400
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Local news story
Thanks for passing that along - I saw it on TV in the spring, but didn't
record it, so it was nice to see it again. Someone on list today (I
deleted the email, and can't remember who it was) asked whether
anyone knew people in the video - I have met Vince, the guy who has
the Clipper and a ton of other trailers. The TV crew apparently went up
to his (huge) warehouse up by Auburn CA, where he's got an
astonishing collection of trailers; not just Airtsreams, but lots of
different kinds. Four of his trailers are on display at the Towe Auto
Museum through this weekend. Worth a look, if you're in the
neighborhood.
Amanda
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Tim Shephard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 09:51:21 -0700
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [VAC] Local news story
Our local news did a nice story on vintage airstreams last night. I
posted
the video on my website.
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/
Enjoy
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
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Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 19:50:11 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Remove caulking
Jeanne asked:
The caulking is some sort of silicone. Before we can
caulk with Vulkem we have to remove this old stuff. What kind of tool can we
use so we don't scratch the aluminum?
Some recommend popsicle sticks. I used about 8 or 10 inches of a small
dowel sharpened to a very dull point in a pencil sharpener. The dowel was
easy to grip and I didn't have any popsicle sticks.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 21:31:49 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Remove caulking
on 08/31/02 6:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> A recent heavy rain brought in moisture on the front floor. Thank goodness we
> hadn't worked on the floor yet. Examination of exterior seams in the area
> revealed loose caulking. The caulking is some sort of silicone. Before we can
> caulk with Vulkem we have to remove this old stuff. What kind of tool can we
> use so we don't scratch the aluminum?
Jeanne,
I used a lobster pick first and a putty knife second. They worked easy as
can be. Also, I used a ladder with a blanket thrown over the top where it
rested against the Airstream. Another blanket was thrown on the Airstream
where I laid while working in the center area.
The day I did it was selected from the Weather Channel. I wanted three days
when it was guaranteed to be sunny, dry and low humidity. One day to remove
the old stuff, one day to apply the new stuff and one day for the new stuff
to dry thoroughly.
While I was at it, I cleaned off and recaulked ALL THE VENTS and the tv
antenna (disassembled and lubricated the mechanism, too).
I used plenty of sunscreen and wore a big floppy hat to keep my ears and
neck from burning.
Go for it - do it throughly and you'll be pleased with yourself in the years
to come,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 21:39:57 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Stove problem solved
on 08/31/02 7:12 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
> A few weeks back I asked help in locating parts for my old Magic Chef stove.
> This is the end of the story. The Airstream dealer in my part of MI looked at
> the old stove and said the valves were shot and that they couldn't get
> replacement parts. Then I got on our List and asked for help. Some of you
> referred me to salvage firms. Two offered me your old ones for free but you
> live far away. Other suggestions were to replace the stove with a cooktop and
> forget the oven which usually isn't used much anyway. One person suggested I
> check with local appliance repair places. That seemed to be the least work so
> I called a used appliance dealer and asked if he had parts for old gas
> stoves. He said "No problem." He had lots of old gas stove parts and knew
> where to get new replacements if needed. I now have a working stove/oven with
> 4 new valves and burners at one-third the cost of a new stove/oven.
> Furthermore I'm authentic!
Way to go, girl. I love it when someone perseveres and takes the simplest
route. I'm one of those who replied to your earlier request. Thanks for the
update. It's good to know my suggestion was in the ball park.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 18:59:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: "www.TRADESHOWSandEVENTS.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Argosy-Fuse Box
Hey folks,
The heater blower motor does not work on the dash of
my 77 Argosy. I am assuming it might simply be a blown
fuse. Can anyone tell me where the Fuse BLock is
located?
Brad
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 22:48:22 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Remove caulking
Also, mineral spirits will make the silicone a lot less gummy.
Daisy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> A recent heavy rain brought in moisture on the front floor. Thank goodness we
> hadn't worked on the floor yet. Examination of exterior seams in the area
> revealed loose caulking. The caulking is some sort of silicone. Before we can
> caulk with Vulkem we have to remove this old stuff. What kind of tool can we
> use so we don't scratch the aluminum?
>
> Jeanne
> 1971 Safari
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 22:15:55 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Interesting WBCCI Rally Publication - - 1976
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Greetings All!
I just acquired a book unlike any I have run across. It chronicles the
1976 WBCCI International Rally in Louisville, Kentucky. This is a
hardbound book that is a photo chronicle of events that began with the
arrival of participants through the closing ceremony. There are also
articles that chronicle the history of International Rally activities.
There are historical Rally photos beginning with 1958 through 1975 - -
most are similar to the aerials sold at current Internationals. The
book is exceptionally interesting due to the number of photos featuring
trailers in attendance as well as the tow vehicles - - nearly all seemed
to be either full-size GM or Chrysler sedans with a few Mercurys,
Suburbans, and Travelalls. Just through reading this publication, the
implication was that these books were published for more than just the
1976 International Rally. In addition, forms were included in the back
of the book to order copies of photos included in the book. Has anyone
encountered similar publications for Rallys of the 1960s or 1970s? The
publication information is as follows:
Title: SO PROUDLY WHE HAIL (The Free Spirit of 76) - - - 19TH
INTERNATIONAL RALLY WBCCI JUNE 28 - JULY 4, 1976 LOUISVILLE KENTUCKY
Copyright: 1976 By - International Publications
Rallybook created by George Sempel/Photography By Stevens Kilgore
I have really be surprised by the amount of information included in the
publication, and I have learned several things about Rally activities
about which I had been curious.
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Greetings All!<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>I just acquired a book unlike any I have run =
across.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>It chronicles the 1976 WBCCI
International Rally in </span></font><st1:place><st1:City><font size=3D2
face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>Louisville</span></font></st=
1:City><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>, =
</span></font><st1:State><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>Kentucky</span></font></st1:=
State></st1:place><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>. <span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>This is a hardbound book that is =
a photo
chronicle of events that began with the arrival of participants through =
the
closing ceremony. <span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>There =
are also
articles that chronicle the history of International Rally =
activities.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>There are historical Rally =
photos
beginning with 1958 through 1975 - - most are similar to the aerials =
sold at
current Internationals. <span =
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The book is
exceptionally interesting due to the number of photos featuring trailers =
in
attendance as well as the tow vehicles - - nearly all seemed to be =
either
full-size GM or Chrysler sedans with a few <span =
class=3DSpellE>Mercurys</span>, <span
class=3DSpellE>Suburbans</span>, and <span =
class=3DSpellE>Travelalls</span>.<span
style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Just through reading this =
publication,
the implication was that these books were published for more than just =
the 1976
International Rally. <span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>In =
addition,
forms were included in the back of the book to order copies of photos =
included
in the book.<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>Has anyone =
encountered
similar publications for <span class=3DSpellE>Rallys</span> of the 1960s =
or
1970s?<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> </span>The publication =
information
is as follows:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Title:<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> =
</span>SO
PROUDLY WHE HAIL (The Free Spirit of 76) - - - 19<sup>TH</sup> =
INTERNATIONAL
RALLY WBCCI JUNE 28 – </span></font><st1:date Month=3D"7" =
Day=3D"4"
Year=3D"1976"><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:
Arial'>JULY 4, 1976</span></font></st1:date><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'> =
</span></font><st1:place><st1:City><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>LOUISVILLE</span></font></st=
1:City><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'> =
</span></font><st1:State><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>KENTUCKY</span></font></st1:=
State></st1:place><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p=
>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Copyright:<span style=3D'mso-spacerun:yes'> =
</span>1976 <span
class=3DGramE>By</span> – International =
Publications<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DSpellE><font size=3D2 =
face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>Rallybook</span></font></spa=
n><font
size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'> created by
George <span class=3DSpellE>Sempel</span>/Photography <span =
class=3DGramE>By</span>
Stevens Kilgore<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>I have really <span class=3DGramE>be</span> surprised =
by the
amount of information included in the publication, and I have learned =
several things
about Rally activities about which I had been =
curious.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><st1:PersonName><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>Kevin D. =
Allen</span></font></st1:PersonName><span
style=3D'mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 =
Suburban<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>1978 Argosy Minuet<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar =
in-training)<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'>WBCCI/VAC #6359<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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Message Number: 8
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 20:51:24 -0700
From: Pearl Main <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Interesting WBCCI Rally Publication - - 1976
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Kevin D Allen My copy went into recycle bin last week because it had been
badly damaged by water.... now am sorry should hve kept it.... Knew that
would happen when doing a masive sort out Am gladI did offer the old NL and
roger Hightower will get them inmail in a couple of days. Pearl in SoCal
> Greetings All!
>
> I just acquired a book unlike any I have run across.It chronicles the 1976
> WBCCI International Rally in Louisville, Kentucky. This is a hardbound book
> that is a photo chronicle of events that began with the arrival of
> participants through the closing ceremony. There are also articles that
> chronicle the history of International Rally activities.There are historical
> Rally photos beginning with 1958 through 1975 - - most are similar to the
> aerials sold at current Internationals. The book is exceptionally interesting
> due to the number of photos featuring trailers in attendance as well as the
> tow vehicles - - nearly all seemed to be either full-size GM or Chrysler
> sedans with a few Mercurys, Suburbans, and Travelalls.Just through reading
> this publication, the implication was that these books were published for more
> than just the 1976 International Rally. In addition, forms were included in
> the back of the book to order copies of photos included in the book.Has anyone
> encountered similar publications for Rallys of the 1960s or 1970s?The
> publication information is as follows:
>
> Title:SO PROUDLY WHE HAIL (The Free Spirit of 76) - - - 19TH INTERNATIONAL
> RALLY WBCCI JUNE 28 � JULY 4, 1976LOUISVILLEKENTUCKY
>
> Copyright:1976 By � International Publications
>
> Rallybook created by George Sempel/Photography By Stevens Kilgore
>
> I have really be surprised by the amount of information included in the
> publication, and I have learned several things about Rally activities about
> which I had been curious.
>
> Kevin D. Allen
>
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
>
> 1978 Argosy Minuet
>
> 1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
>
> WBCCI/VAC #6359
>
--------------BA5FFB788B51D60BB6FB0731
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<p>Kevin D Allen My copy went into recycle bin
last week because it had been badly damaged by water.... now
am sorry should hve kept it.... Knew that would happen
when doing a masive sort out Am gladI did offer
the old NL and roger Hightower will get them inmail in a couple of
days.
Pearl in SoCal
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<div class=Section1>
<div class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Greetings
All!</font></font><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
just acquired a book unlike any I have run across.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>It
chronicles the 1976 WBCCI International Rally
in </span><st1:place><st1:City><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>Louisville</span></st1:City><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>, </span><st1:State><span
style='font-sizestyle='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>This
is a hardbound book that is a photo chronicle of events that began with
the arrival of participants through the closing ceremony. <span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>There
are also articles that chronicle the history of International Rally activities.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>There
are historical Rally photos beginning with 1958 through 1975 - - most are
similar to the aerials sold at current Internationals. <span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>The
book is exceptionally interesting due to the number of photos featuring
trailers in attendance as well as the tow vehicles - - nearly all seemed
to be either full-size GM or Chrysler sedans with a few <span
class=SpellE>Mercurys</span>, <span
class=SpellE>Suburbans</span>,
and <span class=SpellE>Travelalls</span>.<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>Just
through reading this publication, the implication was that these books
were published for more than just the 1976 International Rally. <span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>In
addition, forms were included in the back of the book to order copies of
photos included in the book.<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>Has anyone
encountered similar publications for <span class=SpellE>Rallys</span>
of the 1960s or 1970s?<span style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>The publication
information is as follows:</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Title:<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>SO
PROUDLY WHE HAIL (The Free Spirit of 76) - - - 19<sup>TH</sup> INTERNATIONAL
RALLY WBCCI JUNE 28 � </span><st1:date Month="7" Day="4"
Year="1976"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:
Arial'>JULY
4, 1976</span></st1:date><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'></span><st1:place><st1:City><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>LOUISVILLE</span></st1:City><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'></span><st1:State><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-famil
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>Copyright:<span
style='mso-spacerun:yes'></span>1976 <span
class=GramE>By</span>
� International Publications</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class=SpellE><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'><font face="Arial"><font
size=-1>Rallybook</span></span><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial'>
created by George <span class=SpellE>Sempel</span>/Photography <span
class=GramE>By</span>
Stevens Kilgore</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><font face="Arial"><font size=-1>I
have really <span class=GramE>be</span> surprised by the amount of
information included in the publication, and I have learned several things
about Rally activities about which I had been curious.</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoAutoSig"><st1:PersonName><span
style='font-size:12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'><font face="Times New Roman"><font
size=+0>Kevin
D. Allen</font></font></span></st1:PersonName><span
style='mso-no-proof:yes'><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoAutoSig"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=+0>1964
Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoAutoSig"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=+0>1978
Argosy Minuet</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoAutoSig"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=+0>1975
Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoAutoSig"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt;mso-no-proof:yes'><font face="Times New Roman"><font size=+0>WBCCI/VAC
#6359</font></font><o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</blockquote>
</body>
</html>
--------------BA5FFB788B51D60BB6FB0731--
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2002 23:39:47 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Remove caulking
Jeanne wrote:" . . . What kind of tool can we use so we don't scratch the
aluminum?"
Hi Jeanne,
I've not got to sealing the seams on my '69 Safari yet, other than the lower
curves under the trim strips. However, on the '74 Argosy I have cleaned all
the seams of old paint and rust, etc. and found that a dental tool set does
the best job. The various tools can cut out the old caulk and pull dirt out
from the lap. Certainly, the dental tools can scratch, so you must work
slowly and very carefully.
For removing large caulk, I frequently work very carefully with a very sharp
chisel! :(
Most likely I'll compare the sharpened dowel and the nut pick
recommendations with the dental tools when I start on the Safari.
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 07:07:09 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Brake Controller - Prodigy
Hi All,
A visit to http://www.tekonsha.com/frcontact.html
will facilitate view of a streaming video that compares the braking of
the Prodigy with other brake controllers. I found it very informative.
Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 11:39 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Remove caulking
> Jeanne wrote:" . . . What kind of tool can we use so we don't scratch
the
> aluminum?"
>
> Hi Jeanne,
>
> I've not got to sealing the seams on my '69 Safari yet, other than the
lower
> curves under the trim strips. However, on the '74 Argosy I have cleaned
all
> the seams of old paint and rust, etc. and found that a dental tool set
does
> the best job. The various tools can cut out the old caulk and pull dirt
out
> from the lap. Certainly, the dental tools can scratch, so you must work
> slowly and very carefully.
>
> For removing large caulk, I frequently work very carefully with a very
sharp
> chisel! :(
>
> Most likely I'll compare the sharpened dowel and the nut pick
> recommendations with the dental tools when I start on the Safari.
>
> Regards, Joy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 07:19:57 -0500
From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Water Heater Cover
Working on my 62 Sovereign. I'm replacing the original Bowen water heater
with an Atwood. I have the tank mounted on treated wood blocks and strapped
down similar to the original. I have the inner cover modified and mounted. I
used plumbers putty under the flange because that is what the old sealant
appeared to be (any comments?). Now I need to mount the treasured Bowen
outer cover but the vent for the exhaust is on the wrong side of the cover.
Has anyone ever reversed the cover? It looks like you may be able to bend
out the tabs and flip the cover over. I considered cutting a hole or louvers
over the new exhaust site. I also considered doing nothing if you guys think
the cover would vent enough as is.
Thanks,
Evans
62 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 07:32:36 -0500
From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 62 curtain rod tabs
My 62 Sovereign has a small curved shower curtain track but no tabs so I
have no clue what they look like. Does anyone have a source for these
jewels? A pattern or description of the lopsided curtain would be nice too.
Thanks,
Evans
62 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:08:17 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Cover
J.Evans wrote: "Working on my 62 Sovereign. I'm replacing the original Bowen
water heater with an Atwood. I have the tank mounted on treated wood blocks
and strapped
> down similar to the original. I have the inner cover modified and mounted.
I
> used plumbers putty under the flange because that is what the old sealant
> appeared to be (any comments?)"
Hi J.Evans,
Your approach to mounting the water heater is similar to my installation
where I replaced the 10 gallon Bowen with a 6 gallon Atwood. However, a
major difference is the caulking used behind the flange. I don't think
plumbers putty is an appropriate material for the purpose. Rather, there's
a butyl tape made specifically for the purpose and comes in zillion foot
rolls. Just cut of a strip of the 1/8 inch X 1 inch tape like caulk and
stick it to the surface. After the flange is fastened in place, trim the
excess if any. Any RV parts outlet like "Camping World" has this tape.
I know this is heresy for restoration, but why not just bite the bullet and
paint the outer cover with silver paint? Or, go to the expense and
fabricate a stainless cover. My experience with two installations is that
modification of the original cover makes it look pretty messy. The painted
cover on my '69 Safari looks great as far as I'm concerned. It's my opinion
that the vent opening is a critical aspect of the design of the water
heater. Any cover that impedes the flow of "hot" gas or is constructed of
different material than provided by the manufacturer can reduce the
efficiency of the water heater. In a worst case, it could create a fire
hazard.
Regards, '69 Safari, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 11:03:39 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: High Mileage Unit
--part1_28.2bef0988.2aa3864b_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
OK, another question from one of the newbies. I'm looking at a very high
mileage unit (excess of 400,000 miles I'm told) it's a late 50's 26 footer.
What problems should I look for? I've only seen E-mailed photos so far, it
looks to be in good shape, albeit a few beauty marks. Or should I pass on
such a well enjoyed unit?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
--part1_28.2bef0988.2aa3864b_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>OK, another question from one of the
newbies. I'm looking at a very high mileage unit (excess of 400,000 miles I'm
told) it's a late 50's 26 footer. What problems should I look for? I've
onl<BR>
<BR>Thanks in advance,
<BR>
<BR>Jason</FONT></HTML>
--part1_28.2bef0988.2aa3864b_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 11:15:18 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bicycle Carriers
Question for those who haul bicycles when towing --
What have you found that works well? I'm interested in recommendations for
racks/carriers to accommodate three
bicycles on both roof top carriers as well as the kind that
would fit in the hitch receiver. Thanks.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 11:01:01 -0700
From: James Clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: High Mileage Unit
This would be a good one to check for what has been replaced and when
...Are you interested in holding tanks? Unless a lot of work has been done
on the unit, it would not meet my expectations for an extended stay RV..
More like a hard shell tent with indoor cooking. When you consider average
mileage on a family car is 10+ thousand per year, 50 years and 400K would
mean that the trailer was behind the car about 3/4 of the time... Thats a
lot of towing... I had a late 50's unit (in 1963 )and lived in it for 6
months on and off... If you add a furnace and forget about holding tanks,
it can be a fairly nice accommodation in full hookup parks... I added a
forced air furnace complete with ducts (Armstrong I think) and a new air
conditioner and we lived primarily in the South...There were no holding
tanks in my unit...
To make it the equivalent of a modern unit would be a lot of work...(but
doable...)
Jim
At 11:03 AM 9/1/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>OK, another question from one of the newbies. I'm looking at a very high
>mileage unit (excess of 400,000 miles I'm told) it's a late 50's 26
>footer. What problems should I look for? I've only seen E-mailed photos
>so far, it looks to be in good shape, albeit a few beauty marks. Or
>should I pass on such a well enjoyed unit?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Jason
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:35:07 -0700
From: VACList Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: VACList guidleines
The following VACList guidelines are sent to all subscribers on the
first of every month for reference, and to new subscribers when they
sign-up. Please be familiar with them.
Welcome to the VACList - a service of the Vintage Airstream Club. While
we are a very laid back and easy going list, there are some rules,
relating to behavior, that we would like followed:
SUBJECT LINES: Please try to change them when you alter the course of
the current discussion. It is often hard to remember, but please try.
This makes it easier to find information in the archives at a later date.
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REPLIES: Please delete all the unnecessary text when replying back.
Just a snippet or paragraph is needed to remind the readers of the
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Do not reply back with "Me Too!'s" that clutter up the list - make sure
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USE PLAIN ASCII TEXT: No HTML, no stylized text, no signatures - just
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formatting goes along with the message as an attachment. If you have
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size and attachment size is restricted to help prevent spammers &
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NO SWEARING, NO PREACHING, NO POLITICS -- No Kidding. Airstreamers are
a very diverse group of people from every corner of the US and overseas,
from every religion, race and walk of life. What plays well in your neck
of the woods may be offensive somewhere else.
MOST COMMERCIAL POSTS ARE NOT ALLOWED -- but there are exceptions. If
you are simply a dealer looking to shill your stock or services on this
list, you will be quickly removed from the group. On the other hand, if
you tailor your information and replies to genuinely be helpful, you
will be more than welcome - and greatly appreciated.
If you are a manufacturer of restoration parts or materials, by all
means inform the List with a brief "new product" announcement - but
please conduct all follow-up business off-list.
AIRSTREAM "FOR SALE" NOTIFICATIONS ARE WELCOME -- Many people are
looking for their first (or 3rd, 4th+) Airstream. If you find one
available in your area, please pass the info along. If you are selling
an airstream. please put the information in the free VAC Classifieds.
For restoration parts, list all the details in the VAC Classifieds parts
section, eBay or a website. (the list doesn't mind getting the first
crack at a bargain!) After all, one of the greatest needs to restore an
Airstream is parts. But please, keep marketing and all business
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Some specifics about the VACList:
It is a service offered by the Vintage Airstream Club (VAC) and the VAC
Webmaster. It is intended to promote membership in the WBCCI/VAC and to
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As this is not public media, and as you have willingly signed up for it,
you also agree to abide by the List Owner's rules (the Webmaster and the
volunteer Monitors). If you don't want to do so, you are free to leave.
If you don't follow the rules, we are free to release you from
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(please read it if you don't believe this) does not guarantee your right
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You may be warned if you have problems adhering to the above requests.
You may get set to "moderated" for "cooling off", or you may be
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Please understand that our time is as important to us as yours is to
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need be, the stick will come out to make sure it stays fun.
If you have any issue with one of the above rules, please send a message
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Best of trails,
RJ Dial
VAC Webmaster
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toby Folwick
Monitor
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Scott Scheuermann
Monitor
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Edward Emerick
Monitor
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 10:57:36 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Cover
Which vent cover do you have? Is it this style?
http://vintageairstream.com/h20_vent.jpg
If so, depending on which Atwood you used and how you mounted the pan,
the heater will exhaust out the old vent cover just fine, as it will be
recessed back from flush. If the exhaust is flush with the skin, then
you might have some sheetmetal work ahead. There are original versions
of this style that have the hood on the forward side of the cover
plate. If you have a different style cover, see if you can find a photo
of it in the archives, and what model Atwood you installed.
Joy's tip about the butyl mastic is a good one, or even Vulkem works
good in applications like this (large hidden voids).
I would try and retain the cover though, while the 1969 and later body
style can look OK with the flat door, the older vintage coaches look
rather funny. Sort of like taking off the front grill off a '57 Chevy
and installing a plastic air scoop and dam in its place.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
On Sunday, September 1, 2002, at 05:19 AM, J.Evans Woodward III wrote:
> Working on my 62 Sovereign. I'm replacing the original Bowen water
> heater
> with an Atwood. I have the tank mounted on treated wood blocks and
> strapped
> down similar to the original. I have the inner cover modified and
> mounted. I
> used plumbers putty under the flange because that is what the old
> sealant
> appeared to be (any comments?). Now I need to mount the treasured Bowen
> outer cover but the vent for the exhaust is on the wrong side of the
> cover.
> Has anyone ever reversed the cover? It looks like you may be able to
> bend
> out the tabs and flip the cover over. I considered cutting a hole or
> louvers
> over the new exhaust site. I also considered doing nothing if you guys
> think
> the cover would vent enough as is.
> Thanks,
> Evans
> 62 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 11:11:29 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: High Mileage Unit
That's a tough question. I'm just in from spending another 6 hours this
morning of rebuilding the windows on the latest project, the 1957 Flying
Cloud. About 60 hours down another 180 to go.....
What I'm saying, is after 47 years, everything is going to be in bad
shape unless it has been maintained and used every season for that last
47 years. The best you can hope for is an "arrested state of decay"
that can serve as a starting point for a restoration. Unless you want
to make every trip you take a living nightmare, there are very few
vintage trailers that are ready to go with just a little clean-up.
And, I have only seen a few 1950's trailers (those annually maintained)
that do not have significant floor damage. 1960's and 1970's trailers
are getting to be the same.
Why get an old trailer? Only get one if you already have a trailer that
you can use while you spend a few years restoring an old one. When you
get done, you will have the coolest trailer around, and will give you
great satisfaction and enjoyment.
Best of luck,
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
On Sunday, September 1, 2002, at 08:03 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> OK, another question from one of the newbies. �I'm looking at a very
> high mileage unit (excess of 400,000 miles I'm told) it's a late 50's
> 26 footer. �What problems should I look for? �I've only seen E-mailed
> photos so far, �it looks to be in good shape, albeit a few beauty
> marks. �Or should I pass on such a well enjoyed unit?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jason
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 12:56:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jill Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Walmart Tongue Jack
Walmart has a top-crank tongue jack for $29.00.
It is rated for 1,000# tongue weight. Is anyone
familiar with this jack? Should I have any reason
to be concerned with it regarding safety and very
basic functionality? (if it even fits my rig).
Jill
Oregon
1960 TW
=====
"Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
and everything is right on schedule."
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
http://finance.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 16:04:26 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bicycle Carriers
on 09/01/02 11:15 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Question for those who haul bicycles when towing --
>
> What have you found that works well? I'm interested in recommendations for
> racks/carriers to accommodate three bicycles on both roof top carriers as well
> as the kind that would fit in the hitch receiver. Thanks.
>
Hi Jim,
Over the years, I've used a carrier on the front bumper, on the rear bumper,
on the hitch receiver and on the roof. All of them resulted in the bicycles
getting filthy from road dirt and spray on rainy days. Keeping the chains
cleaned was a "must do job" before we could use them after driving in the
rain, along with a general cleaning.
If I didn't have a Van and if I hadn't found a better way, I'd probably look
into one of the zippered bags for bikes - with sewn in accomodations for the
hardware used with bumper, hitch receiver and roof top carriers. They came
on the market after we bought our Van back in the 70s.
For the last 20 years of RVing, it's been a new day for us. Our kids are
grown and on their own. As a result, I changed my bicycle carrying method.
The easiest way for me to haul my one bicycle is inside our E-250 Ford Van.
The bike goes crosswise behind the front seats along with our electric wheel
chair (secured with its' own seat belts). The bicycle is shorter than the
Van is wide, it takes up very little room (width of pedals is about 18
inches), is easy to secure with bungy cords to floor loops I installed and
is simple to remove or put back without unpacking or removing anything
inside the Van.
I moved the Van's rear seat back 6 inches to gain additional, immediately
accessible floor storage space for our water filters, fresh water hoses,
tool boxes, air pressure tank, a personal lift, a wheel chair lift and power
attachments to operate them. In spite of these items, there is still a
comfortable amount of space for two adults to sit on the factory original
rear seat (with seat belts).
Plus, I built a floor to ceiling closet with shelves along the streetside
wall for spare parts, my scuba gear, my mountain climbing gear, cushions,
propane cooking grill, Coleman one burner stove, and the usual hoses and
belts for our Van's engine.
Why am I telling you this when you're asking for ideas about outside storage
of bicycles? Who knows, you may buy another tow vehicle. If it's a Van,
you'll have this idea as a viable option.
If I didn't need to carry the wheel chair, I'm sure I could get three
bicycles behind the front seats and still have plenty of room for two adults
or three children on the rear seat (plus a portable, cushioned game table in
front of them). I could make that change this afternoon in an hour.
When I tow with our Suburban or 1975 Mercury Station Wagon, I don't take the
bicycle. There is no 18 inch slice of space for it to slip into like there
is with our Van. Both are good tow vehicles, but they are not convenient
storage vehicles for what we must carry, plus what we like to carry.
This reply may be of little use to you. Perhaps, it'll help those with Vans
or those thinking of buying another tow vehicle.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 14:48:41 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wiring IntellPower into 64 GT
I am ready to replace the Univolt transformer in my 1964
Globe Trotter with an Intelli Power 9100 converter (40 amp
model PD9140AR), but have a few questions on how to wire the
IntelliPower into the Globetrotter.
The Univolt transformer has a one line 110 volt AC input
and two AC outputs line of 12 volts AC for the lights and 18
volts AC for the fan and water pump.
The G64 GT electric control panel in the rear compartment
has two 2 position toggle switches to switch the Lights
(switch 1) and the Fan & Pump (switch 2) between City Power
(12 & 18 volts AC) and Battery Power (12 volt DC from the on
board battery). When the panel switches are set to
Battery, the loads (lights, fans and pump) all get 12 volts
and are not connected to the Univolt at all. When the
switches are set to City Power, the loads are connected to
the Univolt (12 volts AC for lights and 18 volts AC for fan
& pump) but are not connected to the Battery at all.
Switching is an either/or, mutually exclusive selection
between the Univolt AC transformer or the 12 volt DC
Battery.
The IntelliPower is a converter (CONtracts 120 volts
down to 12 volts while also changing AC to DC) that also has
the optional Wizard for three level charging of the 12 volt
Battery when plugged into AC.
THe installation wiring diagram for the IntelliPower shows
its 12 volt DC output attached to the cable that go from the
battery to the 12 volt panel. I presume attaching the
IntelliPower 12 volt output wires at this point allows the
IntelliPower to provide 12 volts directly to the loans on
the other side of the 12 volt panel while also charging the
battery at one of 3 stages depending on battery condition.
Whereas the Univolt transformer is never wired to the
Battery and is wholly isolated from the Battery, the
IntelliPower converter is always wired to the Battery.
My question is: where do I attach the 12 volt + and -
output wires from the IntelliPower to the 12 volt circuit in
the 1964 Globe Trotter? It seems I should attach them to the
Battery end of the two pole switches for Lights and Fan &
Pump on the Control panel and permanently leave the switches
set to Battery. Moving the two pole switches to City Power
after the IntelliPower is wired in would simply disconnect
everything so no lights, fan or pump would get any power.
It seems I should always leave the control panel switches
set to Battery whether or not the IntelliPower is plugged
into 120 volts AC because the IntelliPower simply
supplements the 12 volt Battery when the IntelliPower is
getting 120 volts AC when plugged in, and is adding nothing
to the Battery when it is not plugged in (so that the loads
run directly off the 12 volt Battery).
Should I remove the City Power / Battery Power control
panel, wire the wires permanently in the Battery position,
and just wire the IntelliPower to the 12 volt Battery?
Help from someone who has done this will be greatly
appreciated.
thanks!
Fred Coldwell
Denver, CO.
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 17:19:08 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bicycle Carriers
Terry, my previous tow vehicle was a E-250 van that I ordered set up for
towing with the big 460 engine, auxiliary fuel tank and all the bells and
whistles. Like a dummy, I let the van go when the ' 73 Sovereign was sold. I
didn't realize I would have a chance to get another Airstream when I bought
my current tow vehicle, a 2001 F-150 4X4 extended cab that I use for my
everyday transportation. If I had known I'd be getting another Airstream, I
would have done things differently about a tow vehicle. The pickup is paid
for so I'll be keeping it a while.
I found that a van made a good tow vehicle for my Sovereign and my two
daughters each had a seat to herself so they didn't have to touch each other
on long trips.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 16:04
Subject: [VAC] Re: Bicycle Carriers
> on 09/01/02 11:15 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Question for those who haul bicycles when towing --
> >
> > What have you found that works well? I'm interested in recommendations
for
> > racks/carriers to accommodate three bicycles on both roof top carriers
as well
> > as the kind that would fit in the hitch receiver. Thanks.
> >
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Over the years, I've used a carrier on the front bumper, on the rear
bumper,
> on the hitch receiver and on the roof. All of them resulted in the
bicycles
> getting filthy from road dirt and spray on rainy days. Keeping the chains
> cleaned was a "must do job" before we could use them after driving in the
> rain, along with a general cleaning.
>
> If I didn't have a Van and if I hadn't found a better way, I'd probably
look
> into one of the zippered bags for bikes - with sewn in accomodations for
the
> hardware used with bumper, hitch receiver and roof top carriers. They
came
> on the market after we bought our Van back in the 70s.
>
> For the last 20 years of RVing, it's been a new day for us. Our kids are
> grown and on their own. As a result, I changed my bicycle carrying method.
> The easiest way for me to haul my one bicycle is inside our E-250 Ford
Van.
>
> The bike goes crosswise behind the front seats along with our electric
wheel
> chair (secured with its' own seat belts). The bicycle is shorter than the
> Van is wide, it takes up very little room (width of pedals is about 18
> inches), is easy to secure with bungy cords to floor loops I installed and
> is simple to remove or put back without unpacking or removing anything
> inside the Van.
>
> I moved the Van's rear seat back 6 inches to gain additional, immediately
> accessible floor storage space for our water filters, fresh water hoses,
> tool boxes, air pressure tank, a personal lift, a wheel chair lift and
power
> attachments to operate them. In spite of these items, there is still a
> comfortable amount of space for two adults to sit on the factory original
> rear seat (with seat belts).
>
> Plus, I built a floor to ceiling closet with shelves along the streetside
> wall for spare parts, my scuba gear, my mountain climbing gear, cushions,
> propane cooking grill, Coleman one burner stove, and the usual hoses and
> belts for our Van's engine.
>
> Why am I telling you this when you're asking for ideas about outside
storage
> of bicycles? Who knows, you may buy another tow vehicle. If it's a Van,
> you'll have this idea as a viable option.
>
> If I didn't need to carry the wheel chair, I'm sure I could get three
> bicycles behind the front seats and still have plenty of room for two
adults
> or three children on the rear seat (plus a portable, cushioned game table
in
> front of them). I could make that change this afternoon in an hour.
>
> When I tow with our Suburban or 1975 Mercury Station Wagon, I don't take
the
> bicycle. There is no 18 inch slice of space for it to slip into like there
> is with our Van. Both are good tow vehicles, but they are not convenient
> storage vehicles for what we must carry, plus what we like to carry.
>
> This reply may be of little use to you. Perhaps, it'll help those with
Vans
> or those thinking of buying another tow vehicle.
>
> Terry
>
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 17:59:52 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
At 02:37 AM 8/31/02 -0400, you wrote:
>Just a question from a not tech person. Why can't the electric temp
>control be turned to high and just check the resistance across the plug
>terminals?
>
>Supposedly the heating element is open/burned-out. If so, the reading
>across the plug terminals should be infinite resistance? Seems an easier
>way to check?
Sure, that should work. Just be sure the fridge is not connected to shore
power when you try it - Ohm-meters only work safely when the circuit is
dead; you don't want the meter to complete a circuit.
- Dick
(5368)
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 18:04:44 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
At 07:58 AM 8/31/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Opening the thermostat should be the same as disconnecting one end... but
>if you can lift one end, then you are sure... voltage readings across the
>element should give the line voltage with the element either good or
>bad... ( V=IR for the working and line voltage for the open element
>) either way it's line voltage..
If the *only* thing in the circuit is the heating element, then that's
correct - you would be connected directly across the source voltage, and
would see that reading on the meter, regardless of the condition of the
heating element. If there were other resistances in the circuit, then the
drop across a good element would be lower than line voltage, and that
across a bad element would be near line voltage on an analog voltmeter.
- Dick
(5368)
- Dick
(5368)
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 19:11:53 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Brake Controller - Prodigy
http://www.bargman.com/tekcat/prodigy.html
Joy,
The above URL will take you right to the video site.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 7:07 AM
Subject: [VAC] Brake Controller - Prodigy
> Hi All,
>
> A visit to http://www.tekonsha.com/frcontact.html
> will facilitate view of a streaming video that compares the braking of
> the Prodigy with other brake controllers. I found it very informative.
>
> Regards, '74 Argosy, Joy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 11:39 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Remove caulking
>
>
> > Jeanne wrote:" . . . What kind of tool can we use so we don't scratch
> the
> > aluminum?"
> >
> > Hi Jeanne,
> >
> > I've not got to sealing the seams on my '69 Safari yet, other than the
> lower
> > curves under the trim strips. However, on the '74 Argosy I have cleaned
> all
> > the seams of old paint and rust, etc. and found that a dental tool set
> does
> > the best job. The various tools can cut out the old caulk and pull dirt
> out
> > from the lap. Certainly, the dental tools can scratch, so you must work
> > slowly and very carefully.
> >
> > For removing large caulk, I frequently work very carefully with a very
> sharp
> > chisel! :(
> >
> > Most likely I'll compare the sharpened dowel and the nut pick
> > recommendations with the dental tools when I start on the Safari.
> >
> > Regards, Joy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #412
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