VACList DigestVACList-Digest Friday, August 30, 2002 Issue 410
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Intellivolts & cork floors
2. Re:
3. Re: outside light cover
4. Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
5. Grey Water In Bambi
6. Re: VAC - Two Doors
7. Re: VAC - Two Doors
8. Re: Grey Water In Bambi
9. Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
10. Re: Grey Water In Bambi
11. Re: Sagging coach
12. Re: Sagging coach
13. Re: Sagging coach
14. Re: Sagging coach
15. Re: Sagging coach
16. Re: Sagging coach
17. Re: outside light cover
18. Re: outside light cover
19. Re: Sagging coach
20. Re: Sagging coach
21. Dent Eraser
22. Re: outside light cover
23. Re: outside light cover
24. Re: Dent Eraser
25. Re: Dent Eraser
26. Dumpiing & Sagging coach
27. Re: Andy - Sagging coach
28. Re: Andy - Sagging coach
29. Re: Dumpiing & Sagging coach
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 20:36:36 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Intellivolts & cork floors
Hi Jeff,
My only thoughts about anything electrical are to go around and check
all the wires, connections and fuses. After that you need someone else.
On the floor, cork is expensive, however it is a warm color, cleans up
like a breeze, flexes with the trailer, is insulation against heat and
cold, and sounds. Dog toenails on vinyl or Pergo are noisy, as are
people feet. My parents have a cork floor in their kitchen that is 30
years old, has been very abused, and still looks great.
go see:
http://home.tiac.net/~jtdjtd/aspix/floor.html
there will be pix of the final product there soon.
I have spilled water on it, tracked sand in, and I am a very messy cook,
so far so good. And , thanks Jim Green, it does look pretty spiffy.
http://www.corkandfloor.com/
http://www.corkfloors.com/
The second one is where I bought mine, very good product and excellent
service, including a lot of silly questions answered cheerfully.
Jeffrey Miller wrote:
>
> My distinguished colleagues :
> I have two questions tonight for the assembled cognoscenti
> 1) I have bit nails in two over my new Intellivolt 9000 55 amp unit
> failing to charge the battery or power the 12V stuff. If I charge the
> Delco 12V battery (new) w/ an external charger it runs the lights &
> stereo 2 or three days
> I think the Intellivolt has a problem but need to know how to be sure
> ( I also suspect the wiring).
> 2) I need to rip out the hi-lo shag & put in some cork or linoleum Any
> thoughts on that? My floor is so solid (yippee)
> Jeff Miller (PhD in nothing useful to trailer restoration)
> 69 Overbudget
> 01 Duh-rango
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:07:04 -0400
From: "wam52" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
------------------------------
Here you go Dave
http://www.timberman.com/salvage.htm
WAM
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 13:09:18 -0400
From: Dave Lowrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RV Salvage Yards
Does anyone know of any RV Salvage Yards in the Ohio, Indiana or Kentucky
areas?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:11:18 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: outside light cover
Bob,
That "scare light" is still used and available through an Airstream dealer.
Grote sells it as a backup light, have been since well back into the 60's.
Because it was designed as a backup light the lens will melt down with
extended use.
Charlie
My Airstream wrote:
> The lens on the outside light cover on my 66 Safari is semi-melted out of
> shape. It is 4 1/4" in diameter and made of white plastic. Anybody got a
> spare?
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
> 66 Airstream Safari
> Mira Mar Mobile Park
> Oceanside, CA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Elaine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 8:36 AM
> Subject: [VAC] outside light cover
>
> > We have a 1950 Cruiser and the outside porch light cover is missing. I
> > would like to know what it looks like, and if it is possible to get
> > another one. It is kind of pointed at the top and about 3" long. A
> > tiny bulb fits in it and it works. Our unit is nearly original and we
> > would like to try to keep it as close to that as possible. Thanks.
> > Chuck and Elaine
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
> >
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 21:16:15 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
Derek,
The electric heating element has very likely failed. A quick check would
be to measure resistance between the leads of the heating element. It
should be in the neighborhood of 50 ohms. Replacements are available.
Charlie
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hello, I have a 73 Excella 500 w/ Original Frig works fine on propane
> but has stopped working on elec. have power from the junction box to
> T-stat how does one ck the 110 heating element what should the
> resistance be on a good unit and are they available still? Any input
> is appreciated!
>
> Thank you all, Derek
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 05:23:47 -0400
From: "Eric and Linda Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Grey Water In Bambi
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We're trying to install a separate grey water system in our 61 Bambi but =
the shower and the toilet were plumbed together originally. Has anyone =
successfully converted to a dual system? Any other suggestions? Eric =
and Linda
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>We're trying to install a separate grey =
water=20
system in our 61 Bambi but the shower and the toilet were plumbed =
together=20
originally. Has anyone successfully converted to a dual =
system? Any=20
other suggestions? Eric and Linda</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 08:28:55 -0400
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: VAC - Two Doors
Check out the two door overlander on ebay .
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1855427298
I`d bid , but I guess I cant have `em all , much as I`d like to...
Chris
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 08:27:46 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: VAC - Two Doors
There couldn't be many of these around. Hope someone rescues it before it
ends up in a hunting camp or worse.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Elliott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 7:28 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: VAC - Two Doors
>
>
> Check out the two door overlander on ebay .
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1855427298
>
> I`d bid , but I guess I cant have `em all , much as I`d like to...
> Chris
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:44:07 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Grey Water In Bambi
> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
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on 08/30/02 5:23 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
We're trying to install a separate grey water system in our 61 Bambi but the
shower and the toilet were plumbed together originally. Has anyone
successfully converted to a dual system? Any other suggestions? Eric and
Linda
Hi Eric,
Have you checked Tom Patterson's website?
>>http://www.tompatterson.com<<
Tom usually captures such details and includes them is his data (over 40,000
pages).
I recall this topic being discussed in detail several years ago.
Terry
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<HEAD>
<TITLE>Re: [VAC] Grey Water In Bambi</TITLE>
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<BODY>
on 08/30/02 5:23 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE=3D"2"><FONT FACE=3D"Arial">We're trying to install a sep=
arate grey water system in our 61 Bambi but the shower and the toilet were p=
lumbed together originally. Has anyone successfully converted to a dua=
l system? Any other suggestions? Eric and Linda<BR>
</FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
Hi Eric,<BR>
<BR>
Have you checked Tom Patterson's website?<BR>
<BR>
>>http://www.tompatterson.com<< <BR>
<BR>
Tom usually captures such details and includes them is his data (over 40,00=
0 pages). <BR>
<BR>
I recall this topic being discussed in detail several years ago. <BR>
<BR>
Terry <BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BODY>
</HTML>
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Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 10:45:57 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
Charlie, dumb question time -- how would one measure the resistance? Unplug
the heating element from the 110V service and measure the resistance
through the heating element? If there's 110V at the heating element and no
heat, pretty likely the element has a break.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie/Betty Burke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 23:16
Subject: [VAC] Re: Elect. portion of Frig.
> Derek,
>
> The electric heating element has very likely failed. A quick check would
> be to measure resistance between the leads of the heating element. It
> should be in the neighborhood of 50 ohms. Replacements are available.
>
> Charlie
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Hello, I have a 73 Excella 500 w/ Original Frig works fine on propane
> > but has stopped working on elec. have power from the junction box to
> > T-stat how does one ck the 110 heating element what should the
> > resistance be on a good unit and are they available still? Any input
> > is appreciated!
> >
> > Thank you all, Derek
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 11:07:37 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Grey Water In Bambi
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Hi Eric,
I attended the Cherry Blossom event near Washington, DC as a visitor and =
toured several vintage units. One was a bambi, I think, that the owner =
had changed the bath to a center installation on the streetside over the =
axle. I didn't ask about gray water/black water, but it was a neat, =
personalized trailer with lots of crafted wood cabinets. Think he =
created a rear bedroom. Really nice polished outside.
Anyway, possibly he is on the VAClist and can tell you how he handled =
the remodeling.
Without knowing anything about anything, I would consider putting in an =
above floor black water tank if you have an existing combo tank under =
the floor. Convert the under floor tank to the gray water tank. My '74 =
Argosy has a rear bath and the toilet is centered against the rear wall =
- the tank is above the floor. Uses a short style toilet to achieve a =
reasonable seat height. The under floor gray water tank is mounted in =
what would normally be the under floor black water tank. In this case, =
the housing seems to be part of the support for the floor as a cross =
brace isn't in the usual place. Another style, is for the toilet to be =
located in the corner on top of the black water holding tank. The =
outlet drops outside the main frame rail and through the banana curve. =
I think this is optimal for an addition if you can tolerate creating a =
personalized interior rather than restoring the original.
The combo tank in my '69 Safari is too close to the rear frame to mount =
a centered black tank above the floor. However, a corner installation =
would be a great modification as the toilet is near that location in =
the original layout. The dump would be outside the main frame rail.
My thought is that consideration of a new tank above the floor is a =
definite plus. If you have to leave other plumbing, you could put the =
tub/shower pan on a platform. My '69 Safari tub is on a 5 inch platform =
anyway. Another couple of inches wouldn't hurt a short guy like me! :) =
Seems that the modern Bambi has an angled corner toilet and a bed next =
to it in the rear. I think the toilet uses the above floor tank and an =
underfloor gray water tank.=20
Past threads concerning this, plumbed the sink drain into a closet tank, =
leaving the tub connected to the black water tank. Most likely, this is =
the simplest approach next to the "blue boy". =20
In the '69 Safari, I removed the 40#, six gallon water heater and =
replaced it with a 10 pound, 6 gallon unit (both empty) and saves 30 =
pounds at the rear of the trailer. Also trashed the old Univolt at =
about 50 pounds for the 5 pound Intelipower. Saves about 80 pounds at =
the rear. A 12 gallon black water tank above the floor would keep the =
balance and not overstress the frame. Hmmm, I hate the below floor =
tanks, the housings, the nasty installation/maintenance issues.
You can take all this tongue in cheek as the ravings of a mad restorer!
'69 Safari,
'74 Argosy,
Joy
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Hi Eric,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>I attended the Cherry Blossom event =
near=20
Washington, DC as a visitor and toured several vintage units. One =
was a=20
bambi, I think, that the owner had changed the bath to a center =
installation on=20
the streetside over the axle. I didn't ask about gray water/black =
water,=20
but it was a neat, personalized trailer with lots of crafted wood=20
cabinets. Think he created a rear bedroom. Really nice =
polished outside.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Anyway, possibly he is on the VAClist =
and can tell=20
you how he handled the remodeling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Without knowing anything about =
anything, I would=20
consider putting in an above floor black water tank if you have an =
existing=20
combo tank under the floor. Convert the under floor tank to the =
gray water=20
tank. My '74 Argosy has a rear bath and the toilet is centered =
against the=20
rear wall - the tank is above the floor. Uses a short style toilet =
to=20
achieve a reasonable seat height. The under floor gray water tank =
is=20
mounted in what would normally be the under floor black water =
tank. In=20
this case, the housing seems to be part of the support for the floor as =
a cross=20
brace isn't in the usual place. Another style, is for the toilet =
to be=20
located in the corner on top of the black water holding tank. The =
outlet=20
drops outside the main frame rail and through the banana curve. I =
think=20
this is optimal for an addition if you can tolerate creating a =
personalized=20
interior rather than restoring the original.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>The combo tank in my '69 Safari is too =
close to the=20
rear frame to mount a centered black tank above the floor. =
However, a=20
corner installation would be a great modification as the toilet is =
near=20
that location in the original layout. The dump would be outside =
the main=20
frame rail.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>My thought is that consideration of a =
new tank=20
above the floor is a definite plus. If you have to leave =
other=20
plumbing, you could put the tub/shower pan on a platform. My '69 =
Safari=20
tub is on a 5 inch platform anyway. Another couple of inches =
wouldn't hurt=20
a short guy like me! :) Seems that the modern Bambi has an=20
angled corner toilet and a bed next to it in the rear. I =
think the=20
toilet uses the above floor tank and an underfloor gray water=20
tank. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>Past threads concerning this, plumbed =
the sink=20
drain into a closet tank, leaving the tub connected to the black water=20
tank. Most likely, this is the simplest approach next to the=20
"blue boy". </FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>In the '69 Safari, I removed the 40#, =
six gallon=20
water heater and replaced it with a 10 pound, 6 gallon unit (both empty) =
and=20
saves 30 pounds at the rear of the trailer. Also trashed the old =
Univolt=20
at about 50 pounds for the 5 pound Intelipower. Saves about 80 =
pounds at=20
the rear. A 12 gallon black water tank above the floor would =
keep the=20
balance and not overstress the frame. Hmmm, I hate the below floor =
tanks,=20
the housings, the nasty installation/maintenance issues.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4>You can take all this tongue in cheek =
as the=20
ravings of a mad restorer!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D4></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D4> &nbs=
p;  =
; =20
'69 Safari,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D4> &nbs=
p;  =
; =20
'74 Argosy,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial=20
size=3D4> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
Joy</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 12:52:27 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
Jim. In time, we all learn. There has yet to be a sagging floor on any
Airstream ever built, that was stationary. Only some of those that moved had
the problem. That tells it all.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 12:20:09 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
I am sure there is point to this somewhere, but "darned" if I can see it!
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Sagging coach
> Jim. In time, we all learn. There has yet to be a sagging floor on any
> Airstream ever built, that was stationary. Only some of those that moved
had
> the problem. That tells it all.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:19:54 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
Don. Some folks "still" find it impossible to believe that "lack of proper
running gear" balance hurts anything. My 37 years background with the
Airstream product sure demonstrates otherwise. However, as I recently stated,
It doesn't matter to me if someone disbelieves that fact. I have rebuilt them
for that reason for 37 years, and that part of the repair business is as
strong as ever.
Facts are facts, period, like it or not. Simple laws of Physics.
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:30:11 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
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I dont thinh the unbalanced wheels have much to do with the sagging. It hasa
lot to do with a very flimsy frame I was supprised when I pulled the belly
pan on my 65 tradewind as to how much under built it is much of the
satrength of the airstream has to do with the way the superstructur is
built.But the weight behind the axels is excessive when the holding tanks
are full. )One should always try to dump before driving if at all possable.
1/2 to 3/4 full is eaven worse as the pounding thats takes place in an
unbaffeled tank can be destructive.far worse than the full tank would be. I
have a total of 45 gal capicity in my gray and black water tank. I try never
to go any distance without dumping .Also full tanks tend to throw the trailer
out of balance.
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
1992Dodge Cummins Diesel
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">I dont thinh the unbalanced wheels have much to do with the
sagging. It hasa lot to do with a very flimsy frame I was supprised when I pulled the
bellyJim Smith<BR>
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)<BR>
1992Dodge Cummins Diesel</P></FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:52:38 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
Jim Smith. Then please explain why owners that keep the running gear properly
balance, AND, travel with full tanks, NEVER, have the problem.
And those that don't want to believe (their choice), always have the problem.
Of course, it can't be a lack of care problem, so it must be Airstreams
fault. Not!!.
If you ever checked the "flimsy" frames on an airplane, you would never get
on one, let alone ride in it.
We rebuild them everyday, because of improper balance. Therefore I am
reporting this to others, based on several thousands of examples. To each his
own. For those who dispute the fact, it comes out of your pocket, sooner or
later, not mine.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 13:56:54 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 11:27:47 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: outside light cover
Charlie,
Thanks for clearing that up. It seems silly to me that an Airstream entry
light, which might be left on for extended periods, should be made of a
melting material. I thought that perhaps a previous owner had put a too hot
bulb in the fixture. Wondering when I do replace the melted lens if a lower
wattage bulb would solve the melt down problem. The existing light is very
bright.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie/Betty Burke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2002 8:11 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: outside light cover
> Bob,
>
> That "scare light" is still used and available through an Airstream
dealer.
> Grote sells it as a backup light, have been since well back into the 60's.
> Because it was designed as a backup light the lens will melt down with
> extended use.
>
> Charlie
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 12:51:24 -0700
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: outside light cover
> Charlie,
> Thanks for clearing that up. It seems silly to me that an Airstream entry
> light, which might be left on for extended periods, should be made of a
> melting material
Hi Y'all:
I have one of those lenses on my '67. I at first thought that because my
trailer was from AZ that the lens had "relaxed" due to heat and was bulged
out at the bottom. After looking at it more closely, my opinion is that it
is designed that way. To me it looks like the lens is formed with a
"drip-lip" at the bottom to direct rainwater away from the trim ring.
I'll be glad to take a picture of mine and send it to anyone who is
interested in it. I suspect that my lens is identical.
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 16:11:13 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
I don't doubt that moving them was a source of problems. What is commonly
held as the problem was moving them with full holding tanks and probably
over bumpy roads where the momentum of the bouncing rear holding tank
contents over stressed the frame and caused it to bend. The factory fix was
to reinforce the frame in the area of the axles as you know. I'm surprised
that the relatively high frequency vibration of out of balance wheels would
have the same effect.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 12:52
Subject: [VAC] Re: Sagging coach
> Jim. In time, we all learn. There has yet to be a sagging floor on any
> Airstream ever built, that was stationary. Only some of those that moved
had
> the problem. That tells it all.
>
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 15:17:11 -0700
From: James Clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sagging coach
This may be the way it is on the new freeways, but I would expect that the
best balance in the RV world would make little difference when the wheels
drop into a pot hole or the trailer hits a speed bump that didn't seem too
bad when the tow truck went over it, but threw everything out of the sink
when the trailer went over it... Bottom line is that Airstream made heavier
frames to support the tanks and the things that happened to them...and of
course the heavier stuff that the owners demanded be in the trailer....
Lets not fight over semantics, the balance is important, but not
everything... or the separations would not be limited to the units with the
smaller frames...I imagine one could bend the frame on a new one if you hit
the right pot hole with the max load on board...
Jim
At 01:52 PM 8/30/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>Jim Smith. Then please explain why owners that keep the running gear properly
>balance, AND, travel with full tanks, NEVER, have the problem.
>And those that don't want to believe (their choice), always have the problem.
>Of course, it can't be a lack of care problem, so it must be Airstreams
>fault. Not!!.
>If you ever checked the "flimsy" frames on an airplane, you would never get
>on one, let alone ride in it.
>We rebuild them everyday, because of improper balance. Therefore I am
>reporting this to others, based on several thousands of examples. To each his
>own. For those who dispute the fact, it comes out of your pocket, sooner or
>later, not mine.
>
>Andy
>inlandrv.com
>airstreamparts.com
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 15:26:55 -0700
From: James Clark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Dent Eraser
This is definitely for the real metal benders among us...
I was half listening to the radio the other day and heard of a device that
took dents out of tuba and saxophone plumbing... It is the Dent Eraser by
C. G. Conn and can be checked out at www.unitedmusical.com click on C.
G. Conn and then on Literature/Catalog....
The idea is to use a strong magnet on the outside and a steel ball on the
inside... a .pdf is available that shows the thing in use... I know this
would mean taking off the inside panel, but so would any other kind of
method that I know about... I would think that the aluminum would be softer
than the brass on a tuba and would "roll out " fairly easily... maybe too
much...
If anyone decides to try this , I would like to know how much success if
any....
Good Erasing
Jim Clark
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 14:08:16 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: outside light cover
I think you're right about the drip lip design . . . but mine also puckers
and slobbers making it milky and hard to see through. I'm going to see how
the ebay auction goes and then buy one from Grote when I locate it in their
catalog.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 12:51 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: outside light cover
> > Charlie,
> > Thanks for clearing that up. It seems silly to me that an Airstream
entry
> > light, which might be left on for extended periods, should be made of a
> > melting material
>
> Hi Y'all:
>
> I have one of those lenses on my '67. I at first thought that because my
> trailer was from AZ that the lens had "relaxed" due to heat and was bulged
> out at the bottom. After looking at it more closely, my opinion is that
it
> is designed that way. To me it looks like the lens is formed with a
> "drip-lip" at the bottom to direct rainwater away from the trim ring.
>
> I'll be glad to take a picture of mine and send it to anyone who is
> interested in it. I suspect that my lens is identical.
>
> GQ '67 Safari
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 17:14:33 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: outside light cover
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: outside light cover
> Charlie,
> Thanks for clearing that up. It seems silly to me that an Airstream entry
> light, which might be left on for extended periods, should be made of a
> melting material. ...........
>
> Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
Bob,
"... should be made of a melting material. .. " Really? Typo I hope?
Tom
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 17:55:16 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Dent Eraser
Once aluminum is stretched, I've never seen it "un-stretched" and returned
to it's original condition.
The softer the aluminum, the more it stretches. Brass would be harder, less
stretching of the metal so this thing must just take out the wrinkles sort
of.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2002 6:26 PM
Subject: [VAC] Dent Eraser
> This is definitely for the real metal benders among us...
> I was half listening to the radio the other day and heard of a device that
> took dents out of tuba and saxophone plumbing... It is the Dent Eraser by
> C. G. Conn and can be checked out at www.unitedmusical.com click on C.
> G. Conn and then on Literature/Catalog....
>
> The idea is to use a strong magnet on the outside and a steel ball on the
> inside... a .pdf is available that shows the thing in use... I know this
> would mean taking off the inside panel, but so would any other kind of
> method that I know about... I would think that the aluminum would be
softer
> than the brass on a tuba and would "roll out " fairly easily... maybe too
> much...
>
> If anyone decides to try this , I would like to know how much success if
> any....
>
> Good Erasing
>
> Jim Clark
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 16:03:06 -0700
From: Tuna <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Dent Eraser
Also: i've seen a couple of versions of a dent-pulling device on late-night
tv commercials: it uses hot glue to attach (temporarily) a threaded post in
the middle of the dent... a bar with two more posts (one at each end) braces
the central post, screwing hand-nut onto the glued-on post then pulls the
dent out...
see, for example:
http://www.twist-a-dent-puller.com/ about $30...
on the other end of the expensive spectrum, i found this electromagnetic
'dent-puller' used on aircraft:
http://www.electroimpact.com/edr.asp
looks very expensive... and heavy... it weighs around 850lbs. but it works
from one side of the dent.
tuna
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 18:34:16 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Dumpiing & Sagging coach
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Jim,
Dumping keeps you regular.
As for the monocoque structure of the Airstream I don't quite think you =
understand how the sum of all parts equals a very strong unit. Have you =
ever done mechanical work on aircraft? You'd be very surprised when you =
found out how light the material really is yet how strong it really is =
at the same time. What about structural engineering? Have you ever =
studied that before? You'd be amazed and saying to yourself, "How'd =
they do that!?"
Andy is right and he knows from where he speaks in regards to the =
sagging rears.
Just remember to keep dumping when you need to and you will be OK. =
Right, Andy?
Tom in NC
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
Subject: [VAC] Re: Sagging coach
.................. I try never to go any distance without dumping =
.Also full tanks tend to throw the trailer out of balance.
Jim Smith
1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
1992Dodge Cummins Diesel
------=_NextPart_000_0090_01C25053.D84E1A20
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Dumping keeps you regular.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>As for the monocoque structure of the =
Airstream I=20
don't quite think you understand how the sum of all parts equals a very =
strong=20
unit. Have you ever done mechanical work on aircraft? You'd =
be very=20
surprised when you found out how light the material really is yet how =
strong it=20
really is at the same time. What about structural =
engineering? Have=20
you ever studied that before? You'd be amazed and saying to =
yourself,=20
"How'd they do that!?"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Andy is right and he knows from where =
he speaks in=20
regards to the sagging rears.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Just remember to keep dumping when you =
need to and=20
you will be OK. Right, Andy?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Tom in NC</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Re: Sagging =
coach</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica>
<P align=3Dleft><FONT lang=3D0 face=3DArial size=3D2=20
FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF">.................. I try never to go any distance =
without=20
dumping .Also full tanks tend to throw the trailer out of =
balance.<BR>Jim=20
Smith<BR>1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)<BR>1992Dodge Cummins=20
Diesel</P></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 18:35:23 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Andy - Sagging coach
Andy,
Where is your business located? I'd love to visit your place one day!
Tom in NC
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [VAC] Re: Sagging coach
> Don. Some folks "still" find it impossible to believe that "lack of proper
> running gear" balance hurts anything. My 37 years background with the
> Airstream product sure demonstrates otherwise. However, as I recently
stated,
> It doesn't matter to me if someone disbelieves that fact. I have rebuilt
them
> for that reason for 37 years, and that part of the repair business is as
> strong as ever.
> Facts are facts, period, like it or not. Simple laws of Physics.
>
> Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 18:51:40 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Andy - Sagging coach
Tom. We are in Corona, California.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 19:13:34 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dumpiing & Sagging coach
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Having built quite a bunch of raceing Hydroplanes as well as fiberglass sail
boats I think I undderstand monocque construction quite wellWhen you build a
light hull under 100lb and expect it to hold togeather at speeds in the
excess of 100mph you nees to have a small understanding othe forces it is
subjected to . I have seen un baffeled fule tanks litteraly tare themselves
loose that is tre resoning behind the statement that 3/4 to1/2 fukk holding
tanks put a greater strain on the structure than full ones the sloshing back
and forth of the liquid in the tank exert conciderable force on the
structure. also the pendulum effect that the tanks are at the very rear
compounds the effect.
I may not have had 37 years with Airstream but in 50+ years in somewhat
related fields I tont think I am A complete fool
Jim Smith
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><P ALIGN=CENTER><FONT SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"
FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Having built quite a bunch of raceing Hydroplanes as well
as fiberglass sail boats I think I undderstand monocque construction quite wellWhen
youI may not have had 37 years with Airstream but in 50+ years in somewhat related
fields I tont think I am A complete fool<BR>
Jim Smith</P></FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
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