The Best 35mm Nikon?
Hi, I'm looking for reccomendations on which 35mm Nikon lens to buy. My main objective is superlative optical quality. I don't necesarily care if its an AF or MF lens, though I prefer the latter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
F100 in Hong Kong
The Nikon F100 is now widely available in Hong Kong. The current price from my authorised Nikon dealer is HK$11,500 which is a shade under US$1,500. When the F5 was introduced, he advised me to wait a couple of months as the initial price would drop. I assume the same will be true of the F100.
Future of the F5
Talking to my Nikon dealer today. He, also the owner, said he was told by Nikon that the F100 might be cut significantly into the F5 sales. He also was told that Nikon may not keep the F5 around much longer. George
You never know what you can do till you try
The 20-35 2.8 is a great lens. I use one on a daily basis and really could not live without it. At $1600 for a gray market lens, I can ... And live without it quite well, thank you. Richard
N90s pricing
I'm contemplating selling the following gear, would you guys help me with pricing? N90s w/MB-10 including the MS-10 and MS-11 battery trays MF-26 Photosecretary The gear is in mint condition, one year old and I have all boxes. The N90s shot approximately 60 rolls of film. Thanks, Rich
Nikon lens-cleaning services?
Does anybody know how much Nikon USA charges to thoroughly clean a lens? I have a 500mm mirror reflex that has the beginnings of a fungus (I think), but I'm wondering what the ballpark would be on such a service, and whether they can even guarantee the results. TIA, Laurel Scott Duncan
MF-30
Is Nikon developing an MF-30 for the F100? I hope they do. Ive been using my MF-26 to imprint a six digit sequence number on frame #0 which helps me label my negatives in order. Really great when shooting roll after roll and never having to number each roll with a pen. This is just one of the features which would have been nice if they ever included it in the MF-29. So any news yet? Cmon Nikon, you dont have to keep us in the dark. Carlo _ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: Nikon F5 EC-R Focusing Screen (V4, #201, Message 5)
I agree with Wayne Jordan: I definitely would like Nikon to provide an improved E Screen for the F5, such as the one provided for the F100. Even if it doesn't have red indicators, I would at least like the spot metering to track with the autofocus indicators like it does in the EC-B Screen. Miles Smith
300/4 + Sigma 1.4 TC
Has anyone used the new Sigma 1.4 APO TC with the Nikkor 300/4? If so, how have the images been? I wish to keep my lenses all Nikon, but there is no 400/5.6 AF option other than third party. The Sigma TC will preserve AF and all metering funtions, according to Sigma. I would love to hear from anyone who has tried this combo. Thanks, Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA
re:Photo Data Recording Sheet [v04.n198/29]
I created a sheet to fit in a small 4"x7" ring binder. I did it in Excel. It has been added to my web page if anyone wants to take a look at it. It has Mode,Fstop,Shutter Speed, Meter (ie 3d, cw,spot), Foc (wide/Spot), MM lens used and a comments section. I have not used it very much, so if you have any comments/improvements, let me know. RStephen Winter [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.accessone.com/~ghwerig
Re: Good Lense for Portraits? [v04.n200/30]
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:44:42 -0500 From: MIKE MOORE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Good Lense for Portraits? [v04.n200/30] Message: 30 I'm considering buying a 105mm 2.8 D AF Micro-Nikkor for portraits. I'll be coupling it to a N70. Good choice? I shoot mostly BW if it matters. Also anyone know if there is an abundance of these lenses in good shape used? Thanks, Mike Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] It is great for portraits. However, at normal distances it isn't sharper than the AIS 105 f2.5. Sorry, don't believe there are many of these lenses available on the used market. You could try Del's for example. Jim
FA vs FEx
Fellow users, Ok, ok, I had a handful of suggestions not to bring AF technology into dusty, humid tropics for months. I only have ~$400 or $450 to spend on a body. I want some sort of automation (at least aperature priority), I have a mechanical release that I intend to be useful (rather than buy an electronic release for those long exposures). It seems that an FA or FE-2 or even an FE would do the job. I am not going to shoot a billion photos so I don't think that I need a 'professional' body, but I do want something a bit on the sturdy side. What are the cons and pros of these bodies (FA, FE, FE-2)? Thanks for your thoughts, John
Re: nikon-digest V4 #201
Maybe it's just me, but I don't understand all the belly aching about the F100 the MB-15? Why not just wait till it comes out and check it out. If you like it, buy it! If you don't, Don't! These guys are in the business of selling camera gear and they make decisions and publish material based on what they feel will sell the most gear. If you think they are motivated by any other agenda you are mistaken. Yes, they consider the imput they receive from a certain group of pro's but in the long haul, the amature weekend/vacation photographer is where they make the money. And those folks are not buying F-5's and F-100's at $1,900.00 1,300.00 a pop. IMHO. Sam
RE: How much computer for coolscan? [v04.n200/12]
Larry, IMHO if you are a computer newbie you could probably do all you want to do with one of the new Macintosh Imacs. Now before all you PC zealots bombard me with hate mail, again IMHO, the Imac has the most bang for the buck right now. You will be somewhat limited on software, certainly not from a graphics stand point as this is Mac's forte, but possibly in business type software. I am a Mac user, but have used lots of "Wintel" machines. I simply find the Mac more intuitive and user friendly. Good Luck which ever way you decide to go, Mike Moore Eightball Studios [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Mexico
Hello, Sorry, this is not really Nikon topic, but here can i hope an answer. In May, i'll go to Mexico (Playa Del Carmen/Yucatan) for my hollidays with my loved Nikon stuffs. It's the first time that i go outside of Europe and North Africa, so forgive me if my questions are really stupids. So, here are my few questions : 1) I've seen in documentation that the weather is "Tropical", so with a lot of humidity. I've also seen in the list many problems due to humidity. How is the humidity there ? Is it dangereous for the stuffs ? I don't want to come back with a culture of fungus in my lenses and in my bag. Sorry, but if i'm paranoiac, this is due to the list :)) 2) The security. How is the security there, can i walk with a body around my neck without be attacked. 3) If you've suggestions, there are welcome Sorry for my broken english ... Jean-Pierre Evrard - Belgium
F100
The Nikon F100 should prove to be an ideal main camera as well as a second camera body to the F5. This is the first time that Nikon has launched a true pro-level camera which supports its flagship model, in this case the F5. Built with a tough magnesium alloy body, and with the basic features of the F5, photographers will now be able to enjoy the technological advancements which was once only available in the F5. Not that much heavier than an F90X/N90s, it makes such a good carry-anywhere camera. Innovations like the red focus area indicators, and closest AF area priority will surely be useful. Keeping the basic controls in a very similar layout as the F5 will definitely be welcomed. That means less fumbling when handling the two cameras on a shoot. One question I would really like to ask Nikon. Will there ever be an MF-30 Multi-Control Back for the F100? And, will there be a Custom Function for the F100 which allows for a slower sync speed, Release-priority in AF-S, Focus-priority in AF-C and other such CFs which are already available in the F90X/N90s and F5? Carlo _ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: Lithium battery prices...
could someone please post the actual average best prices of lithium cells in the U.S. ? ...don't know where it is cheaper to feed my babies ;-) Well, I buy them bulk, as I happen to use them in both my N90s as well as all my flashlights. Luckily, the flashlight manufacturer has a great deal on them right now - 48 batteries for $120 - just $2.50 each! These are Varta batteries by the way, and seem to last a good long time. Anyway, the URL is: http://www.surefire.com/ Click on the "battery special" icon, follow the directions, and you should have a whole load of batteries in a week or two. By the way, check out their tactical flashlights while you're there - about the same size as a MiniMag, but much, much brighter than a 4-D cell MagLite...(No, I don't work for or have any financial interest in them - they just make a great product that not a lot of people outside of law enforcement and gun freaks know about.) If you're not interested in buying so many, Mouser usually has reasonable prices on them also. See: http://www.mouser.com/ -- Paul H. Yoshimune [EMAIL PROTECTED]
SC off-camera flash cord
I still wish for a new SC-20, 21, or whatever off-camera flash cord it will be which incorporates a focus assist beam. If you are asking me why not wish for a focus assist beam built into the camera body, here is my answer. A focus assist beam built into the camera body will have the same limitations as a built-in flash. Looking at camera designs now, especially made by Nikon, one can see that there actually is no ideal spot to integrate a focus assist projector lamp which will not be blocked by fingers, or by the use of large lenses or lenses with really large lens hoods (24-120mm lens for example). Also the ideal location for a focus assist beam is right over the centerline of the lens. It should cross the axis of the lens throughout the assist beams range. It is also at this mounting point where there is much space to be utilized. By placing the focus assist beam assembly over the prism housing, adequate clearance can be accomplished to allow its unhampered use even with a 24-120mm lens with lens hood attached. Nikon is also know for producing products which as much as possible remain compatible throughout the whole range. If they do come out with such a product, I would happily use it with my F90X/N90s, F5, and the F100 when I get it. Carlo _ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Patenting in and out, up and down, over, under, sideways, down
"Justin R. Bregar" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I also own an F5 and I had it programmed by Nikon at the last NPPA Conference to leave the Film leader out. No Charge. I asked the Tech to confirm my suspicion that Canon (please excuse my filthy mouth) has the patent on A USER SERVICEABLE OPTION TO LEAVE THE FILM LEADER OUT. He said that is why they can program it and we can't. Dirty Shame, I did like the option on my old A2e, before I upgraded to the F5. Drew Nope. Minolta's 800si can be programmed to leave it out when rewound. It's a Nikon thing. In addition, for something to be patented it must not be "obvious to one skilled in the art". I really doubt leaving the leader out and autorewind fall into this category. I have heard that the Patent Office has been a bit liberal in their granting of patents lately. However, if an idea really should not have been patentable in the first place it could be challenged in court. I agree. Patenting leaving a leader out is like trying to patent an open door as opposed to a closed door. This is a condition, not an object, and I really doubt this kind of thing can be patented. My 2 cents - drrrRicardo
Re: Good Lense for Portraits? [v04.n200/30]
I'm considering buying a 105mm 2.8 D AF Micro-Nikkor for portraits. I'll be coupling it to a N70. Good choice? I shoot mostly BW if it matters. Also anyone know if there is an abundance of these lenses in good shape used? Thanks, Mike Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] Two years ago I made a comparison with my 85/1.8 and the 105/2.8 micro I suggest to buy the 105 micro only if you are interested in its macro capabilities or you need a longer focal lenght than the 85. The optical performance of both (only one sample tried) are basically equal with an almost imperceptible edge of the 85 wide open (2.8) (I rarely use the 85 at 1.8 because it is too soft IMHO). The 85 is a compact lens, allows for a brilliant image in the viewfinder, costs less and you can find plenty of them used. The 105 micro is a very good versatile lens but I found that its biggest drawback is the AF speed (very slow especially if you use it along the whole focus range), it costs more and it's not simple to find it used. hope this helps Massimiliano Marchetti web page: http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Gallery/8043
Re: Teleconverters for 200mm f2 [v04.n201/7]
Can anyone confirm that the TC-14B is the most suited teleconverter (in the 1.4X range) for the 200mm f2 or is it the TC-14A? Paul, This is what my nikon catalogue says regarding the AIS 200/2: TC-14A - There is occasional vignetting. When used at smaller apertures than f11 with high shutter speeds there is occasional uneven exposure. TC-14B - When used at smaller apertures than f11 with high shutter speeds there is occasional uneven exposure. Overall, it seems the TC-14B would be better since there is no risk of vignetting. I suspect it would be sharper too. "Uneven exposures" may be due to the following. At small apertures the aperture blades need to move a long way to the correct position, which takes time. Adding the TC between the camera and lens may increase this time slightly, so when fast shutter speeds are used, the lens may not be fully stopped down when the exposure starts. This is unlikely to be a real problem, I imagine the reason for having a 200/2 is so you can use wide apertures! Also, at small apertures, shutter speeds tend to be long. Roland.
Re: Circular Polarizing Filter for F3? [v04.n202/3]
Thomas Buro asked: Does the F3 require a circular Polarizing Filter for correct exposure? Thomas No, the F3 only needs a Linear Polarizer. Terry
Re: Flash compensation range scale on SB24 [v04.n202/2]
Negative compensation means you want less light on the subject - so for any given output, the subject must be further away. Using TTL, the output of the flash will be reduced to compensate, but a limit is reached when the flash is at full output. In this case, it will be capable of illuminating a subject which is further away (twice as far for your example -2EV) than with "normal" illumination. Regards John Bean
Re : Circular Polarizing Filter for F3?
Hi Thomas, A circular polariser is a linear polarisering film with a special glass behind it to rotate the polarised light. I am using a linear polariser with my F3 and I had no exposure problems. I think the mirror in the F3 is different to the mirror in the AF cameras. The F3 mirror has many visbile tiny perporated holes to let the light through to the secondary mirror, so that the rays of light are not so much affected. I think the perporations on the AF mirror are much smaller, so they do affect the polarisation of the light rays. Maybe someone else can clarfiy this or correct me. Hope this helps, Sover
FA meter modes
"Daniel I. Applebaum" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The FA also provides matrix metering with non-CPU lenses, but only with AI-S lenses, not AI or AI modified. The FA (like the F4) DOES matrix meter true AI lenses if they have the maximum aperture lug. I don't know whether all do. AI'd and non-Nikon AI lenses do not have this lug (look at the back of the lens: the maximum aperture lug is the stubby protrusion at about 7 o'clock). Matrix metering requires that the camera know the actual f/ratio of the lens so it can estimate the brightness of the scene. All AF Nikons except F4 obtain the maximum aperture electronically only. MLP
RE: Flash compensation range scale on SB24
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:13:20 + (GMT) From: Krisada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Flash compensation range scale on SB24 [v04.n202/2] Message: 2 Hi, I am wondering if someone can help explain... Why when I set the compensation of the SB24 say to -2EV (or any negative numbers), the range indicator on the back of the SB24 increases to greater distance? I was expecting it to be less distance if -2EV means I want 2 stop less light from the flash. Is something wrong with my SB24? thank you Krisada Hi, The range indicator on the back of your SB24 shows the distance you can reach if the flash would fire with it's full power (no TTL-sensor interruption). This means: if you need less light (-2EV), then the light can reach (again at SB's full power) longer distance. Example for SB26 (in meters): GN:42 ISO:100 ASA lens: 50mm f-stop:5.6 Max. distance is 42/5.6=7.5 m -2EV = f-stop=2.8 Max. distance=42/2.8=14.3 m The requested EV compensation works at the moment of the exposure, in your case the flash will be interrupted at -2EV situation (the foreground object will be darker). I hope it helps. Bye. Benjamin
