Thanks all - something else to upgrade over the winter!  New guys and
sheets and new pole end and mast track fitting.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 17, 2012, at 6:03 PM, "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote:

Oh,no!  Not the dip pole vs end for end gibes discussion again?  :)  <----
note smiley face

Joel,

"Conventional wisdom" says that a 35 footer is the break point for dip pole
vs end for end gybes.  IMHO, that is tempered by the material comprising
the pole.  I think with a carbon pole, one could do end for end gibes in
slightly larger boats.

Anyway, to answer your question to Keith, we do end for end gybes on
Touche', a 35-1.  I've done foredeck on 24 to 40 footers for over 20 years
and on Touche' for 13 years.  In my area, we strongly feel that end for
ends are faster and reduce the potential for collapsing the chute.  We've
done end for ends in 20 knots with "relative" ease.

The key is the way the trimmer and, especially, the helmsperson, visualize
the gybe.  IMHO, the crew should think about "keeping the boat under the
chute" or "turning the boat under the chute" not thinking about the "chute
coming across the boat".  I think this is critical.

The helmsperson needs to regulate the speed of the turn to match the action
on the foredeck.  Often, the helmsperson wants to get the boat on the new
gybe too early.  He/she needs to turn slowly and watch the foredeck and
wait until the pole is made on both the guy and mast before completing the
turn.  Similarly, the foredeck shouldn't dally and should get the job
done.  If done proficiently, the chute show continue to draw even while the
pole is detached.  What many don't realize is the boat's VMG downwind is
probably fastest during the turn.  :)

On Touche' we're blessed with a very good and very experienced
helmsperson.  Makes all the difference in the world.

If the helmsperson turns too quickly,  then the chute "comes across the
boat" and the boat is no longer "turning under the chute".  It may take a
bit of focus but changing the way the crew thinks about the gybe will pay
off.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



  ------------------------------
*From:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
*To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Monday, September 17, 2012 3:39 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List WTB and Re: C&C 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys

Keith,

Is an end for end gybe easier/faster/safer than a dip pole on a 35?

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 17, 2012, at 12:48 PM, "Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR"
<keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:

> I assume you are talking about how we jibe after detaching the lazy
> guy...
>
> We are likely to take off the lazy guy only on long-ish legs with few if
> any jibes. (think point to point races)
> But, if we need to jibe, we hook it back up.
> Since we only drop the lazy guy on really light winds, it's no big deal.
>
> If we are likely to be jibing back and forth a lot, we don't take it
> off.
>
>
> -Keith
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Hall [mailto:wh...@alum.mit.edu]
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 8:48
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List WTB and Re: C&C 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys
>
> How do you jibe this setup? Do you have to attach a guy during the
> jibe?  That sounds tricky!
>
> My boat is new to me and came with an asymmetric chute that doesn't
> measure well for PHRF - it's pretty small, yet I'm penalized for it on
> the rating.  Any former racers out there have a functional symmetric
> chute that they'd like to part with?  How about a pole?  Ideally, luff
> length would be 50', foot / mid-girth would be 27'9" and pole would be
> 15'5"
>
> Bill Hall
> 1985 C&C 37 Starfire
> Stamford, CT
>
> On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 8:12 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR
> <keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:
>> On Beyond the Sea, we've had a few different setups.
>>
>> Originally we had 3/8" stayset for the sheets and an older,
>> sorta-low-stretch 1/2" line for guys.
>>
>> I've never really had issues with the sheets, but the guys were too
>> stretchy and in any sort of reaching condition they'd let the pole
> bang
>> the forestay.
>>
>> This year we upgraded all of it.
>>
>> I used 3/8" ultra-tech for guys. With ronstan snap shackles and donuts
>> to protect pole jaw
>>
>> For spin sheets, I spliced 1/4" spectra to some 3/8" Samson "LS" line,
>> with the spectra exposed.  Effectively a stripped line, but without
>> paying "spectra-prices" for the part that is laying on the cockpit
> floor
>> under no load.  I think I went with 20' stripped, but I'd make it less
>> if I had to do again. Maybe 15' next time.
>>
>> For shackles, I seem to do the opposite of everyone.
>>
>> I go for large bales for the spin sheets and small bales for the guys.
>> My reasoning is this: the rings for the clews are sorta small, and
>> there's not room for both shackles to attach, so I attach the sheet to
>> the clew, and the guy to the sheet's shackle.  Hence the need for a
>> large bale for the sheet.
>>
>> This allows us to take the guys off for light air nights without
>> struggling with getting it out of the small-ish ring on the clew.
>>
>> I probably could stop using sheets and guys, and instead just go
> SHEETS
>> with twings...but I have the crew all trained on sheets and guys, no
>> need to solve a problem that isn't there. And yes, we end-for-end with
>> this setup.
>>
>> -Keith M
>> C&C 35-3
>> "Beyond the Sea"
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Indigo [mailto:ind...@thethomsons.us]
>> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 12:24
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 35Mk III Spinnaker Sheets / Guys
>>
>> I am thinking of getting new spinnaker sheets made up this winter for
>> Indigo.  I will probably go with standard snap-shackles as the Tylaska
>> shackles are a luxury I do not really need.  I was wondering what line
>> is recommended by other 35MKIII listers, and whether it makes sense to
>> remove the cover (and how much).  I will be sticking with my older
> guys
>> for at least another year or so.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jonathan
>>
>> Indigo
>>
>> 35MIII - Southport CT
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> --
> William D. Hall, Ph.D.
> 203 653 2886 (o)
> 617 620 9078 (c)
> wh...@alum.mit.edu
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com


  _______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Reply via email to