I found that clear mailing tape works well to cover the bottom of the hole. Bend the end over to help removal later. A shop vac for removing the core is essential. West Systems has a nice booklet and videos that explain proper technigues.
West suggests wetting the inside of any hole; core and skins with unthickened epoxy first. I start with about 3 or 4 pumps of resin and hardener in a plastic cup (Dollar Store throw aways). I mix thoroughly with an acid brush, for well over 1 minute, wet out the holes, then I add 404 High Density filler to the cup mixing until it is like mayonaise or peanut butter, and fill the holes using the brush to push it into any voids in the core. One problem with West is the amine blush that forms when it cures, and requires grinding before adding another layer. Scrubbing with a good 3M pad removes it easiest if the surface isn't too rough. Don't wet out more holes than you have prepaired filler. You can keep adding more epoxy/filler as long as the first is still reacting, is in gel form and hasn't cured hard. Once it is hard, you need to grind off the amine blush to get a good bond. Also, in warmer weather, if your cup of epoxy starts to overheat, you can set it in a shallow pan of water to slow down the reaction, and prevent a fire. In colder weather, I like to have a heat gun handy to warm the surface before applying and to warm the epoxy to get it to kick. I also use a heat lamp to keep heat on an area to be sure it will cure thoroughly. I don't like to epoxy anything if the temp of the substrate is below 40 or above 80. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ----- Original Message ----- From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>. To: "kelly petew" <kellype...@msn.com>, "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 12:11:14 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa core from drilled hole I just did this for my new stainless steel handrails. I didn't have real good luck with a bent nail so I tried various sizes of allen wrench. I found that a 3/16th or 1/8th inch drill bit through 3/8th holes at various angles worked best. I shop-vaced the chips out. After that you'll have better luck finishing up the hole with anballen wrench. If these are new holes, you might try to avoid drilling through the bottom skin. Otherwise you'll have to tape or plug the bottom hole when you go to fill with epoxy. I wet out the hole with clear penitrating epoxy and then fill in stages with thickend epoxy. If you drill through the bottom layer you can use masking tape to plug it, then a drop or two of 10 minute epoxy in the void to seal it. That way none of the CPE or thickened epoxy leaks out. I was filling the holes in 40-50°F weather so I used the fast hardening agent. In a large flat area this would have been fine but since some of my voids were close to 3 or 4 Tbsp (or 45-60ml) this caused a thermal run away in some of the holes. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Feb 26, 2015 11:44 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: I want to remove balsa core from some drilled holes and replace it with epoxy. I've heard that a bent nail inserted into an electric drill works. But I wonder if there is a tool designed specifically to do this job. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Pete W. Siren Song C&C 30-2 Deltaville, VA _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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