Paul:
Forgive me in that I don't exactly know your boat....my old age seems to
recall you saying it was a C&C 27......two (2) 1/2" lines as your bridle
with chafe covering out through your fairleads is quite adequate. If
you go with that, I'd be more concerned with what is the mooring
attached to on the bottom. Do you know for sure?
I thought I did with my boat.....there were supposed to be two (2) 45
gallon drums filed with concrete, and chained together 8 feet apart so
that if the boat lifted one drum with the boat attached to only one, the
chances of it lifting the second one 8 feet away should be
remote.......an 8 foot wave, storm surge where my boat is located, not
likely, but nevertheless, not impossible but surely not sustained.
A September storm a few years back, my boat dragged the mooring approx.
300 feet.....no damage, other than some severe chaffe on the two 5/8"
bridle(s) even with chaffe guards on the fairleads. Turned out I didn't
have two 45 gallon drums of cement, just one, and my boat probably
bounced that one during the wave surge highs the 300 feet from where it
should have remained.
So Paul, my boat dragged and/or bounced a 45 gallon drum filled with
cement and never produced even a tiny crack in the gelcoat around the
deck cleats;
And remember, no matter where our boats are in a hurricane, they are
always in God's hands....that's why we have insurance.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-03-14 6:37 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:
It's not that the cleat is badly fitted on the foredeck, I think it's
just undersized for a long-term unattended mooring. At most it will
accommodate a 1/2" or so line, which I think is too small. Fine if
you are on the boat and attending to it, but that's not going to be
the case.
Given that I would have to cut the rail to fit chocks, and replace
that cleat for something bigger, I think I'll just go with fabricating
a mounting block over the rail and putting cleats straight onto that,
through-bolted and backed of course. Less points for chafe to happen,
and it leaves the central cleat free if needed as well. Or maybe a
bow eye, but attaching the lines to that may prove troublesome, not
sure I want a big shackle smacking into the bow.
Cheers,
Paul.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2015 10:10:15 -0700
To: jackbren...@bellsouth.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Paul, you will be happy to know you can keep track of your boat when
it's out there. http://bulletcam.ca/images/portfolio/axisq60.jpg
The view changes every so often, but rotates through about six set
angles.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 14 March 2015 at 09:10, jackbrennan via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
As someone whose C&C 25 went through 4 small and 1 large
hurricanes on a mooring at Key Biscayne:
You want to size mooring lines so there is some give, just like an
anchor line. Bigger is not necessarily better.
In a large storm, stagger maybe 5 lines of different length so
that one takes over as another breaks. They will break in big storms.
I never saw a mooring cleat pull out. Lines always went first. A
main culprit was an unusually large wave that would pull the bow
up and snap a perfectly good, protected line. Make the lines as
long as they can be in a storm.
I was on a helix mooring. The anchors always held, but a weak
point was the line from the helix to the mooring. They need to be
replaced every few years or after particularly bad storms like
hurricanes.
Duct tape makes good chafe guard in a fix.
Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO
-------- Original message --------
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List
Date:03/14/2015 11:06 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Paul Baker ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck hardware for mooring
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