Hi Brad,
Good to hear you have a zinc ahead of the strut but is it far enough
ahead that you can push the shaft back to remove the shaft coupling half?
Rotational play between shaft & coupling is not as bad as excess
clearance between the hub & shaft. I would attempt a temporary repair
and deal with it at the next haulout. Best case scenario is all you
need is a new key, they do get worn quite a bit with lost motion (it
takes quite a hit every gear shift).
Get them apart and measure along the keyway on both pieces to
determine wear pattern.
If you find either keyway shows wear you have two options, 1) make a
stepped key that matches each slot (keyway) size; 2) fit a tiny shim
with the key in the worn slot.
A stepped key is not difficult to make by hand, I've done a
few for industrial pump situations, but it can be tedious.
A shim for this is going to be like working on a miniature
train set. But you might get lucky and find something that just fits.
For either temp repair I suggest Loctite between coupling half &
shaft (and set screws as Danny mentioned) for re-assembly. Get the
hub, with key laid in, started onto the shaft by 25%, then smear
Loctite on loading area and get the coupling half into proper
position and tighten immedately.
Whoa, I didn't even finish that last sentence and heard the shouting.
Chill man, it's not 5200. This is from Loctite info:
"Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..
Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't
be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is
needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature
Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this
process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still
hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040)
to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with
clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.
For the permanent repair the only new thing you'll need is a key. A
machine shop will true the offending keyway and possibly match it to
the other keyway if it's off a bit too or just true the one and make
a custom (stepped) key to use. If it's the stepped key options then
make sure you get a couple of spares and the dimensions.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island
At 11:16 AM 05/06/2015, you wrote:
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I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it
back in and the boat back together discovered that the propeller
shaft coupling is a little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8" of
rotational movement on the shaft, like possibly the keyway is
worn?. Have tried tightening the set screws, which secures the
coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is movement
of the coupling on the shaft. It's been recommended that I have the
boat hauled, the coupling removed, the shaft pulled out and
provided the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the
shaft, and then reinstalled for a final alignment.
My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with
a loose coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?
Thanks,
Brad Crawford
CnC 36
Seattle
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