Could the worn keyway be related to the need for the transmission rebuild?  I 
have gone through two transmission rebuilds in the 30 years I've owned my boat. 
 I've never encountered a loose keyway though.

If there is any chance of losing your shaft, I would fix it ASAP and I wouldn't 
rely on a zinc to keep your shaft in place unless you don't use the boat while 
you are counting on it. 

Just my $0.02...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Jun 5, 2015, at 3:40 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Brad,
> 
> Good to hear you have a zinc ahead of the strut but is it far enough ahead 
> that you can push the shaft back to remove the shaft coupling half? 
> 
> Rotational play between shaft & coupling is not as bad as excess clearance 
> between the hub & shaft. I would attempt a temporary repair and deal with it 
> at the next haulout. Best case scenario is all you need is a new key, they do 
> get worn quite a bit with lost motion (it takes quite a hit every gear 
> shift).  
> 
> Get them apart and measure along the keyway on both pieces to determine wear 
> pattern. 
> If you find either keyway shows wear you have two options, 1) make a stepped 
> key that matches each slot (keyway) size; 2) fit a tiny shim with the key in 
> the worn slot. 
>         A stepped key is not difficult to make by hand, I've done a few for 
> industrial pump situations, but it can be tedious.
>         A shim for this is going to be like working on a miniature train set. 
> But you might get lucky and find something that just fits.
> For either temp repair I suggest Loctite between coupling half & shaft (and 
> set screws as Danny mentioned) for re-assembly. Get the hub, with key laid 
> in, started onto the shaft by 25%, then smear Loctite on loading area and get 
> the coupling half into proper position and tighten immedately.
> 
> Whoa, I didn't even finish that last sentence and heard the shouting. Chill 
> man, it's not 5200. This is from Loctite info:
>> "Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..
>> 
>> Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
>> 
>> A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be 
>> removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break 
>> down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun 
>> or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful 
>> disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, 
>> use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. 
>> Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film 
>> that Chisel leaves on the surface.
> 
> For the permanent repair the only new thing you'll need is a key. A machine 
> shop will true the offending keyway and possibly match it to the other keyway 
> if it's off a bit too or just true the one and make a custom (stepped) key to 
> use. If it's the stepped key options then make sure you get a couple of 
> spares and the dimensions.
> 
>         Cheers, Russ
>         Sweet 35 mk-1
>         Vancouver Island
> 
> At 11:16 AM 05/06/2015, you wrote:
>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>          boundary="----=_NextPart_000_005F_01D09F81.10182600"
>> Content-Language: en-us
>> 
>> I recently had my transmission out for a rebuild and upon putting it back in 
>> and the boat back together discovered that the propeller shaft coupling is a 
>> little loose on the shaft, maybe 1/8” of rotational movement on the shaft, 
>> like possibly the keyway is worn?.  Have tried tightening the set screws, 
>> which secures the coupling but eventually they work loose and again there is 
>> movement of the coupling on the shaft.  It’s been recommended that I have 
>> the boat hauled,  the coupling removed,  the shaft pulled out and provided 
>> the shaft is ok, a new coupling fitted and faced to the shaft, and then 
>> reinstalled for a final alignment.  
>>  
>> My question to the group is has anyone else been running around with a loose 
>> coupling and is this something I should be immediately concerned about?
>>  
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Brad Crawford
>> CnC 36
>> Seattle
>>  
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