In most of the little hot water tanks the anode is part of the hot water
outlet nipple.  Follow the link for pictures of the tank rebuild I did.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 30, 2015 10:26 AM, "phorvati . via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> And make sure you have zinc anodes.  Electrolysis will eat something.
> On Aug 29, 2015 8:51 PM, "Jim Watts via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Put a meter on it and read what kind of voltage you are getting. 110V AC
>> does not generally give little shocks.
>>
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>
>> On 29 August 2015 at 16:15, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I'm working my way down my project list and finally got to my hot water
>>> tank.  The PO just told me that it didn't work.  I was getting 120V at the
>>> heating element so I checked the element and it was fried.
>>>
>>> I installed a new element and turned it on for a test. Got hot water
>>> after about 10 min, so I went to close everything up. But when I was doing
>>> that I touched the pressure relief valve and got a small shock.
>>>
>>> The green ground wire runs to one of the mouting bolts on the heating
>>> element and also to the water tank frame. So that seems ok. I also checked
>>> for continuity between the hot and neutral wires and the relief valve or
>>> frame and got none.
>>>
>>> So i'm puzzled. The shock wasn't big, but i definitely felt something.
>>> Any ideas???
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> Atacama 33 mk ii
>>> Toronto
>>> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
>>> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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