Charlie:
I made the decision to use an adhesive (Sika) that will 'flex' as I
am sure the cabin top does on my boat (probably my car does as well.)
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-21 10:38 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
This is getting confusing.
Before I knew about the 'structural' aspect of the windows of my 1995
C&C XL, a local yard replaced them with what looks like acrylic at least
partially held in place with screws, the heads of which I can see on
the outside of the windows. This was about 10-12 years ago.
They have started leaking seriously again and are badly 'crazed' now
by the sun in NC. My lexan companion way hatch and sliding cover
look like new and were replaced at about the same time. Thus I am
thinking lexan for the window material when I do replace them.
I plan to have the windows replaced this spring and my yard is very
capable of doing what needs to be done.
Apparently some list members replace their windows with plexus (an
incredibly tough but inflexible 2-part adhesive that I have used
before on hatch handles)
which I thought was the gold standard for our windows.
OTOH, per these email comments, some use a more flexible product like
Sika.
Maybe both solutions work well and apparently since we are dealing
with boats, neither of them are truly permanent.
My dilemma is which way to go--plexus super tough adhesive or Sika
which appears to be more flexible, assuming one is preferred.
Of course, it could be that either will work and last about the same
amount of time--suggestions or recommendations from the list?
Thanks,
'
Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
cenel...@aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Paul Fountain <p...@seasource.ca>
Sent: Wed, Oct 21, 2015 8:45 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows
When the second windows were installed, they used Sika 295 and primer
also, then a Sika caulk around the windows looks great. – Kim was an
artist with how well he matched the gel coat where he did repairs …..
*/Paul Fountain/*
/Managing Director/
*/SeaSource Inc./*
/Bookkeeping & IT Services./
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com?>] *On Behalf Of *robert via
CnC-List
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 21, 2015 8:40 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
*Subject:* Stus-List Replacing Windows
I don't know what choices in adhesives C&C had to choose from in 1984
when my boat was built, nevertheless, the one used was Plexus, which
harden like resin and was the cause of my windows leaking.
The windshield on my car is part of the vehicle's 'structural
integrity' and it is held in place by a Sikaflex product....I used
Sika 295 UV when I replaced my windows about 7 years ago.....I had my
car windshield replaced about 2 years ago and I asked the guys doing
it what was the adhesive they were using.....they told me it was Sika
with a Sika primer and probably the only difference in the two
products was the 'curing time'. The windshield guy said that they
can't use a product with a 24 hour cure time.....the Sika product they
used has a cure time of approx. 2 hours. I understand the logistics
of the shorter cure time for the car windshield.
Seven years with the Sika 295 and no issues to date.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-21 9:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I just replaced the glued in ports on a small 26 footer. I put
them in with LifeSeal. The manufacturer currently puts them in
with silicone. The ports are around 4 feet long but the opening
does have a post in the middle for strength.
I can't help but wonder why not put the newer C&C ports in with a
more flexible adhesive? I understand they are supposed to be
structural and that stiff adhesives are conventional wisdom but is
it absolutely necessary? I guess without a structural engineer
revisiting any calculations that Rob Ball did, we may never know.
Just idle curiosity.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 6:52 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
We have done the windows twice – first time the contractor
used ¼” – lots of issues, then had South Shore make a new set
from the original templates, and they are 3/8” and have done
much better – had a lot of repair work around the windows as a
result of the first contractor, so could not make our own
templates.
*/Paul Fountain/*
/Managing Director/
*/SeaSource Inc./*
/Bookkeeping & IT Services./
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Gary
Russell via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 20, 2015 9:16 PM
*To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com
<mailto:captnga...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* Stus-List Replacing Windows
I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on
High Maintenance (1990 C&C 37 Plus). The windows have been
replaced before (not original) and are currently 1/4" acrylic.
Is that the right thickness? I've seen in some places
references to 3/8" windows. So were the original windows 1/4"
or 3/8"?
Thanks,
Gary
s/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
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