The 2QM15 I had got progressively harder to start as it got colder out (30
- 40 secconds of cranking before it would fire), but would run fine once it
got going and start again instantly several hours later.   The engine had
lots of hours so I was concerned the engine was going to need a re-build.
I tried several things, with little effect, and then took the injectors
out, took them to a shop that replaced the tips.   It made a huge
difference.  In the summer it would start to fire almost instantly, and in
10 or so in the fall.

Cranking RPM is an important part of the mix.  Before looking at the fuel
system, I'd make sure your cables are good.   Test with a volt meter
connected to the positive lug on the starter motor and the engine ground.
Have someone turn it over.  The voltage will drop by 1 to 1.5 v, if any
more then start inspecting and cleaning connections on both positive and
negative cables and the battery terminals.  If the starter is a bit
sluggish, and there is very little or no voltage drop when you turn it
over, then the starter itself should go to an auto electric shop for
brushes or solenoid replacement.  (IMHO it better to rebuild original than
roll the dice with Nappa replacement)

Eric

On Wed, Oct 5, 2016 at 8:16 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No glow plugs on these engines.  Precombustion chambers instead.  I can
> start mine in the dead of winter with seemingly no other indication that it
> is cold outside.
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> On Oct 5, 2016 11:03 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> How many hours on your engine? How are you filters? Does it have glow
>> plugs, a bad glow plug will cause hard starting. Dirty injectors will also
>> cause this, but I think there would be more issues, like poor idle. With
>> the smooth running agter start I don't think it is fuel related.
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>>
>> svPegasus
>>
>> LF38 #4
>>
>> just west of Ballard, WA.
>>
>>
>>
>> ------ Original message------
>>
>> *From: *Michael Jones via CnC-List
>>
>> *Date: *Wed, Oct 5, 2016 18:19
>>
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>>
>> *Cc: *Michael Jones;Tristan Jones;
>>
>> *Subject:*Stus-List yanmar diesel
>>
>>
>> Hello experts,
>>
>> I wonder if you can help me with any suggestions. I have a C&C34 with a
>> 3GM30 F. This motor runs well and smoothly, water circulates, no smoke.
>> Recently it has been taking more and more revolutions to get it started.
>> When it is turning over there does not appear to be anything going on, but
>> when it starts its immediately smooth and normal (no coughing and
>> spluttering).
>>
>> This leads me to think that there must be a leak in the fuel system which
>> is allowing the fuel to drain back out of the injectors. The fact that it
>> seems to start with all 3 cylinders suggests that the leak is before the
>> injector pump.
>>
>> I cannot see any fuel leaking out at the supply pump or filter, so I'm
>> wondering if anyone can suggest where I should start looking? Or what might
>> cause this and not show fuel leaking or spraying out? I'd like to introduce
>> some method into my troubleshooting!
>>
>> Thanks and regards
>>
>> Mike Jones
>> c&C34 Seanachai
>> Oak Bay, Victoria.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 25, 2016, at 6:09 AM, Dave S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding
>> issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to
>> post some photos I took awhile back, here they are:
>>
>>
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>>
>>
>> Dave 33-2 Windstar
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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> _______________________________________________
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