I have a 1983 24, not a 25, but it's a solid hull, not sure that an older 25 
would be cored, but as always, I could be wrong. Just in case they have similar 
construction, I'll mention a couple of things on mine that needed immediate 
attention: The deck to hull bolts all the way around were a little loose, 
allowing 3-4 leaks. The previous owner tried caulking the toe rail to deck seam 
to fix them, but slightly tightening all the bolts did the trick (not too tight 
or the butyl would all squeeze out. One of those leaks must have gone on for 
years because it rotted the cabin-cockpit bulkhead on the starboard side, which 
was only visible by climbing down into the seat hatch in the cockpit. I scabbed 
on marine ply, epoxy and screwed, after cutting the rot away (fun in a tight 
space). The 24 has a 3/4" plywood plate connecting the mast's compression post 
to the hull. It was rotten, looked like fir ply, so while the mast was down I 
replaced that with a thicker piece of marine ply, epoxied to the hull. As for 
the outboard comment about it not staying in the water, I sail on Lake 
Champlain where we don't get "seas", we get short chop which I don't go out in 
if it's over 4 feet, too pounding, not much fun. I have a 6hp Tohatsu SailPro 
(plenty of power in fresh water) with the extra long 25" shaft mounted on an 
adjustable transom. At the lowest transom setting the motor is almost in the 
water, the prop couldn't possibly come out of the water. The short chop puts 
the boat at pretty steep angles, which I assume is as good a test of the 
outboard as in bigger seas. I think the 25" shaft makes sense.
Ed

> On Sep 19, 2018, at 9:15 AM, <bushma...@aol.com> <bushma...@aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Roger; welcome to the list....I have owned a 1982 25 with a saildrive....it 
> has a design flaw which is not worth repairing...water comes in through the 
> "grommet" on the shaft : I rebuilt mine 3 times before putting an outboard 
> on...best move.   We simply glassed in the hole.
> 
> The 25 sails like a much larger boat; when a breeze comes up, she heels to 
> about 20 degrees and accelerates...(you will like that); the deck, although 
> cored, is very strong and well built.  Keep the bottom reasonably clean and 
> have a good set of sails and enjoy yourself!   If you race, you can still 
> out-point many other boats even though the head sail sheets to the 
> toerail...I thought about adding tracks, but you really don't need them.  
> Feel free to call or email me if you have specific questions.
> 
> It is a great boat...
> Richard
> 
> s/v Bushmakk4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 602.5
> 
> Richard Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Slade via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Roger Slade <roger.sl...@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Wed, Sep 19, 2018 8:16 am
> Subject: Stus-List 1982 C&C 25
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> New to the group.  I am going to look at a fresh water C&C 25 built in 1982 a 
> second time and wondered about any ideas of what to look for that is specific 
> to this model.  I believe this boat has a cored deck and cored hull, so will 
> look for any respective issues with water intrusion, deformities, etc.  Boat 
> has been sitting for past 8 years (indoors) so assume it may be difficult to 
> identify and wet areas of decking, but will look for any cracking or 
> deformities around stanchions, fittings, mast step, etc. 
> 
> Boat has a 15hp OMC saildrive which needs a rebuild (seized) , so thinking 
> strongly of removing that and filling in the hole and going with outboard.  
> (engine is already out, but drive is stil in).   
> 
> Interested in any other thoughts on potential problem areas to check out.
> 
> Thanks! 
> _______________________________________________
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