From: "Tom Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) One example of where a failed (open) cap *does* matter is when it happens to be directly in the path of a signal (e.g., the audio). You'll get weak, scratchy, or no sound if that cap goes. Cleaning will not help that problem, of course -- you must replace the cap. To find the cap in question, connect one lead of an ohmmeter to the speaker terminal, and use the other one to find the cap that's connected to it (likely near the speaker, or near the sound chip).

This is exactly what happened to my Classic, although at the same time its date and time functions got lost as well (in spite of a new battery); and the dishwasher method did not help. But could you just tell me what readings are to be expected if the cap is still functional, as compared to when it's faulty (my only experience with an ohmmeter is in checking circuits; "1" being the reading when the circuit is interrupted, '0' if it is not).

Another question which crosses my mind: since both the cap and the speaker have two terminals (two leads), can I connect the meter to either one, or not?

And while we're at it, how long does it take for an unplugged Classic to lose its high tension so as to render the discharging procedure unnecessary... are we talking about days, weeks... or even longer?
Thanks a lot,
Jan




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