All,

Thanks for the input. By following the instructions from the inputs I received, I was able to calibrate K2. I'm all set. Thanks for the help.

Sam
N2MXY

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Samuel C. Ramac
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


"The heavens declare the Glory of GOD, and the sky shows us His Handiwork" Psalm 19:1

                                 __o
                               _'\<,
                           ...(*)/(*)____.




From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 20, Issue 16
Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 04:01:13 -0500 (EST)

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Today's Topics:

   1. RE: FW: K2/100 SWR accuracy (Dan Barker)
   2. PBMME Merry Christmas! (Edward R. Breneiser)
   3. Grab a K6XX CW Indicator WPM+ Option Kit (Edward R. Breneiser)
   4. WA3WSJ: Need Info about SMD LED Installed in KX1
      (Edward R. Breneiser)
   5. K1 setback... (Tom Althoff)
   6. K1 Future Improvements to VFO D3, R17,    R18 any one tried??
      (Paul Webb)
   7. Attaching sides to K2 RF board (jrb)
   8. RE: Attaching sides to K2 RF board (Don Wilhelm)
   9. RE: Attaching sides to K2 RF board (Craig Rairdin)
  10. RE: Attaching sides to K2 RF board (Kevin Shaw)



From: "Dan Barker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] FW: K2/100 SWR accuracy
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 08:35:37 -0500
Be sure you are talking Apples and Apples here. There may be an Orange in
the mix!

The responses you've gotten for calabrating your SWR to match the external
meters are assuming you are putting your tuner in bypass mode. You didn't
say that, and may not be doing so. What you said was "press[] TUNE". The K2
SWR meter will normally read the SWR between the Radio and the Tuner. Your
external meters will read the SWR between the Tuner and the Antenna.

There may be nothing wrong at all.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

<snip>
You might want to adjust the KPA100's R26 and R27 to agree with your
external
meters.
</snip>


<snip>
> When SWR is measured using a MFJ 962 tuner, a Daiwa 101N meter, a Bird
> 43, Autek RF-1, or a MFJ 249 analyzer, the indicated SWR is always higher
> than that shown on the K2.
>
> For example, pressing TUNE on the K2 may indicate a 1.0:1, but the other
> meters all consistently indicate a value significantly higher - lets
> say 1.4:1
</snip>







From: "Edward R. Breneiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
CC: [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net,N3EPA <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] PBMME Merry Christmas!
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 09:49:23 -0500
Hello all,

I was asked if repeater contacts are ok for the PB Xmas Event.
Yes, any mode of communication is ok with me.
If you can use two tin cans and a loooong string, go for it!
This is meant to be a FUN event. There's only ONE restriction on
operating as a Polar Bear. You MUST operate from the highest ground in
your area during this event. No set rules here, just try to get some
elevation under your feet.

Hope to put you in my Polar Bear Log this Saturday. Don't forget to send
in those pictures of your Polar Bear Operation.

As always, the first contact I make on Saturday will receive a polar
bear claw replica with your call sign engraved into it and a hole
drilled into it so you can put it on your keychain. It looks so COOL!

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
Polar Bear #1








From: "Edward R. Breneiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] Grab a K6XX CW Indicator WPM+ Option Kit
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 11:17:46 -0500
Hello all,

Check out my web page for the
K6XX CW Indicator LED in the WPM+ button.
Click on the links for some great install pictures.
If you want a look go to:

http://www.wa3wsj.com/K6XX/K6XXwpmLED.html

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ








From: "Edward R. Breneiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Need Info about SMD LED Installed in KX1
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 11:24:07 -0500
Hello all,

Has anyone installed a SMD LED for the K6XX CW Indicator in a KX1?
If so, could you send me some info about your install and a few pics
to put on my website for others to see.

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ








From: "Tom Althoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 setback...
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 14:55:50 -0500
Well...my tilt stand and backlight kit arrived today which I ordered AFTER I had ordered my K1 and some parts to repair my K2/100/AT.

My disappointment? For some reason the order for the K1 and the K2 replacement parts did NOT get shipped out last Friday as originally planned. 8-(

They are going to do it today. Hopefully they'll have it overnighted for delivery tomorrow or Saturday at the latest. In the mean time I added the auto-tuner to the order.

I assembled the tilt stand a few minutes ago. I suppose having looked at the photo on the Elecraft website so many times that showed the long support arms in place I was pleasantly surprised that "wide range" meant there were another pair of shorter support bars that just tilt the radio up to a normal viewing angle when placed on the desktop. I assembled the EC-1 project enclosure and mounted it on the tilt stand just to get an idea of how I want to operate.

I plan on building a long-life battery pack into the EC-1 and perhaps set the K2 on top of it instead of using the tilt stand.

So I am QRT unless those K2 parts and the K1 arrive in time for the weekend. Oh well. Time to make up some fused power cables for mobile and portable operation of my K2.

Tom K2TA
K2 #1117
K1 #????







From: "Paul Webb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Future Improvements to VFO D3, R17, R18 any one tried??
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 23:06:09 -0000
Hi Gang

Just reading page 59 of the K1 manual and it talks about provisions for
improvements to the VFO temperature compensation

And the use of D3, R17 and R18.

Anyone tried this out and done any before and after tests.

I would be most interested to see if it made any difference, if no one as
tried it anyone know a reason why not to try it or I will

Have a play



All the best

Paul

M0BMN










From: jrb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Attaching sides to K2 RF board
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:08:16 -0800
Hello All and Merry Xmas

Can't figure out where I went wrong here. Attached two 2-D fasteners to one bare area and one "unbare" area as per locations pictured on page 38. Yet when I went to attach the sides to the RF board, the only holes that fit are the "bare" ones, one of which I've attached a 2-D fastener to.

Have I confused left with right sides and attached the fasteners to one of the bare areas in error?
i.e. do the formerly masked areas go on the bottom, not the top?

Sorry to be so dense, but the manual is really unclear here, unless the stippled areas in the figures are the
bare areas.

TIA

Jeff

KG6ZVT






From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "jrb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Attaching sides to K2 RF board
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 20:43:57 -0500
Jeff,

Yes, the long rectangular bare area (previously masked) will go at the
bottom.  The other mouning holes may (or may not be) masked, but if masked
they will be short rectangular areas.

Remove the 2D connector from the bare area, then look at the diagrams
carefully.
The words in the paragraph above the diagrams use the 'bare areas' only as
an indicator that the panels are oriented correctly - and is shown as the
long rectangular light shaded area in the diagrams - the 2D connectors are
to be positioned as shown by the dark shaded areas, there will be one at the
top corner (above the bare area) and the other will be at the back -
centered vertically.

The 2D connectors that are already fitted to the RF Board will attach to the
bare area when you get everything together.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Can't figure out where I went wrong here. Attached two 2-D fasteners
> to one bare area and one
> "unbare" area as per locations pictured  on page 38. Yet when I went
> to attach the sides to the RF
> board, the only holes that fit are the "bare" ones, one of which I've
> attached a 2-D fastener to.
>
> Have I confused left with right sides and attached the fasteners to
> one of the bare areas in error?
> i.e. do the formerly masked areas go on the bottom, not the top?
>
> Sorry to be so dense, but the manual is really unclear here, unless
> the stippled areas in the figures are the
> bare areas.
>
>







From: "Craig Rairdin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>,<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Attaching sides to K2 RF board
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 19:42:46 -0600
Take a look at the pictures at my Web site and see if that helps:

http://www.craigr.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=32

There's one picture for each page in the manual, generally taken at the end
of the tasks for that page. The one for page 39 looks like it might help.

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jrb
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 7:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Attaching sides to K2 RF board


Hello All and Merry Xmas

Can't figure out where I went wrong here. Attached two 2-D fasteners
to one bare area and one
"unbare" area as per locations pictured  on page 38. Yet when I went
to attach the sides to the RF
board, the only holes that fit are the "bare" ones, one of which I've
attached a 2-D fastener to.

Have I confused left with right sides and attached the fasteners to
one of the bare areas in error?
i.e. do the formerly masked areas go on the bottom, not the top?

Sorry to be so dense, but the manual is really unclear here, unless
the stippled areas in the figures are the
bare areas.

TIA

Jeff

KG6ZVT
_______________________________________________
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
 http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

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From: "Kevin Shaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
CC: 'jrb' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Attaching sides to K2 RF board
Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 20:47:13 -0500
Hi Jeff,

I'm about 10 pages ahead of you in building my K2.

Sounds like you have the 2-D fasteners in the wrong spot(s). If you have the
side (left or right) laying on the table with the inside surface facing up
and the two "bare" areas toward you, the 2-D fasteners attach to the holes
at the top left (or right) corner and the right (or left) side.

I hope this makes sense. If not, let me know and I'll send you a picture.

Kevin
N8IQ\4


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jrb
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 8:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Attaching sides to K2 RF board

Hello All and Merry Xmas

Can't figure out where I went wrong here. Attached two 2-D fasteners
to one bare area and one
"unbare" area as per locations pictured  on page 38. Yet when I went
to attach the sides to the RF
board, the only holes that fit are the "bare" ones, one of which I've
attached a 2-D fastener to.

Have I confused left with right sides and attached the fasteners to
one of the bare areas in error?
i.e. do the formerly masked areas go on the bottom, not the top?

Sorry to be so dense, but the manual is really unclear here, unless
the stippled areas in the figures are the
bare areas.

TIA

Jeff

KG6ZVT
_______________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
 http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft

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Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com









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