> From: pauljsmi...@cs.com
> Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 8:53 AM
>
> In a message dated 4/23/03 5:37:13 PM Eastern
> Daylight Time, peter.tar...@sanmina-sci.com writes:
>
> > Bill -
>
> > If you're referring to what I think you are, it's
> > "fuller's
> > earth and waterglass," which is a clay-like mineral and
> > sodium silicate solution.
>
> A former agency engineer I worked with also used
> this waterglass adhesive for thermocouples. It
> worked great and was usually easy to remove
> thermocouples without damaging.


How well the waterglass adhesive removes from the
thermocouples must depend on the percentages of each
constituent in the admixture and the amount of water used to
make the sodium silicate solution.  I've had it turn to
stone.  Probably greater amounts of fuller's earth will aid
in making it more crumbly and greater amounts of water (to a
limit) will allow the admixture to also be softer.

Fuller's earth and water glass takes a long time to dry and
makes thermocoupling a more tedious activity than is
necessary.

In using cyanoacrylates, I've noticed that the accelerant
makes the adhesive more brittle than setting in air would.
Two more advantages of using the smallest possible amount is
that, when you're done, the thermocouple can be removed from
the part by placing a sharp blade at the margin and prying
it up (or cracking it away) from the sensed part *and* the
residue on the thermocouple can be broken off by gently
applying pressure (working from the outside-in) with a pair
of needle nose pliers (one with checkering on the jaws).
The residue literally cracks off and more times than not,
leaves a good bead intact.


Regards,

Peter L. Tarver, PE
Product Safety Manager
Sanmina-SCI Homologation Services
San Jose, CA
peter.tar...@sanmina-sci.com






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