On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote: > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from ever being replied to. Been there, done that too many times already. > The docs are on the SD card > but if there is no SD card the content of the card is on Github. > There is a video walkthrough and a PDF doc both in assembly and setup. Got that, printed most of it. Output moved to printers location in another bedroom. > THey also have the CAD files for the printer, Should you want to make > your own parts or improvements. The firmware is there too. (It uses > Marlin) > > BTW "Marlin" is the equivalent to LinuxCNC. It reads the g-code, > does motion planning and then steps all four steppers. It is > impressive if you look at the rates they get using such low-end > computer hardware. readjusted bed on 22lb paper, fiddly due to tendency to lay arm on x bar while fiddling with back knobs. Also needs stronger or longer springs. Or Z home switch lowered at least 2 mm, but its at bottom now. Restarted cat-3.5h just for S&G. First few layers look fairly good, but display isn't showing % done yet. Now says 2%. Cat is about 1.5mm high. > https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting > > Why am I up so late? I have some machines still running, parts > taking "forever". I can see that effect already. . . > EDIT, saw your next post. How to get PLA to stick to the bed. The > #1 most important thing is the hight adjustment. It to low the bad > blocks the nozel and nothing comes out. It to high the plastic just > extrudes into the air and get hard before it hits the plate. It is > VERY picky that the adjustment is dead-on. They say to use a sheet > of paper as a feeler guage. But it matter what kind of paper, You > have to try a few. > > If done right PLA will stick to a cold aluminum plate but heating up > to 60C helps. i thought I had it up to 60C, but display now says 48. Looks like its well stuck to the hot plate. But I am VERY disappointed unless I can locate something that will run cura in this all linux house. No linux executable in that .zip. Does this mean I have to burn up a spool of pla getting slic3r configured? That SOB must have over 100 variables to play with. And apparently no "canned" profiles for the wide variety of printers available. I'll do some google digging. > Also the speed is importent. about 30 mm per second works for many > people but 15mm/sec works even better Humm, current maxvels are 500 ack the display, but it sure isn't moving that fast right now. > > After a while you look at the first layer and know if it is right or > if not how much to turn the screws on each corner > > Play with: > nozel temp, 200 > bed temp 45 > bed adheision coating, glue stick (somebrands are best) with water of nothing, didn't even give it an alky wipe. > not or hair spray or blue tape or kapton tape or,.... > Height at "zero" > print speed in mm/sec > > Somecombination of the above will work. A good test is to print a 6 > or 7 inch wide circle, one layer tall. The bed has to be VERY flat > for that to work. Then print a 50mm cube and test for square on all > corners and 50mm on each side. Write with sharpis which way to X, Y > and Z before removing cube. > > Once you learn how to make parts stick to the bed, you will find you > have another problem: How to remove then without resorting to a > hammer? One video showed a 2 later coke bottle 2/3rds full of water swung sideways, popped off and had to retrieve from floor :) > > Beginner hint: In the slicer just use "raft" as the bed adhesion > method and do that until you learn. Rafts are nearly fool proof. > > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 1:09 AM andy pugh <bodge...@gmail.com> wrote: > > On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett <ghesk...@shentel.net> wrote: > > > The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb > > > > > > port, looks like an OTG port. Does anyone know what thats about? > > > No other documentation came with it. > > > > Is there a CD with it? Or an SD card? They tend to provide docs that > > way rather than on paper. On paper now. And somewhat better than whats packed in the box. Serious nit: Needs a pair of holes drilled thru the upright on the left so one does not have to remove and re-install the whole x bar assembly while trying to get it square. With the drilled holes, one could run the Z up to where an allen wrench could reach thru the holes to loosen/tighten those screws while adjusting for square with a caliper measurement from the X bar to the top of the post on each side. Serious nit2: Those 2 screws don't fit the allen wrench supplied, nor did they fit other wrenches of the supposedly same size. One time screws are bull shit. If this is square enough, I am tempted to anoint it with green loctite. Cheers, Gene Heskett -- "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." -Ed Howdershelt (Author) If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable. - Louis D. Brandeis Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
