I found my old installation notes for the ZEVA adapter -

When I received the Electron Ford Escort from the original owner, none of the 
gauges did anything (they were all dead - just sat there at the lowest 
reading).  I found a business in Australia that made an adapter to turn the 
tachometer into an amp meter, and the ‘fuel’ gauge into a ‘percent remaining’ 
gauge.  The temperature gauge is not connected to the ZEVA adapter, it is wired 
in the same fashion as the original ICE engine using an OEM temp sending unit. 

89 Ford Escort IVR (instrument voltage regulator) is a bi-metal type that 
provides an average pulsating value of +5.0 volts to the instrument cluster.  
Ground is frame ground.  Replaced with a LM7405 (5V, 1A) solid state regulator. 
 Fits inside the old bi-metal can.  Now, instead of the ‘wagging finger’ caused 
the old bi-metal IVR constant voltage fluctuations, the needles are fairly 
solid.  There is a slight movement downwards (about 1/8 scale) when I turn on 
the headlights.  Might have something to do with the instrument lights drawing 
power across the single instrument cluster ground wire, which depresses all 
instrument cluster voltages.

At any rate, here are a couple of important numbers -

‘Fuel Gauge’ - 10 ohms full, 75 ohms empty.

Temperature gauge - 73 ohms cold, 10 ohms hot. (has nothing to do with the ZEVA 
adaptor - I just wanted to have the gauge do something instead of sitting there 
dead, so I used the OEM temperature sender and attached it to the motor case.  
After about 15 miles or so, the motor warms up enough to bring the needle just 
into the ’normal’ range (about 115f or so).

Make sure you are wiring correctly.  The small connector on ZEVA circuit board 
can be connected backwards.  When connected incorrectly (pin 4 where pin 1 
should be) the gauges start to do something, but then the entire system loses 
power.  Acts like it was working when miswired, at least for a short while.  I 
discovered the problem was in interpreting the instructions.  Although the 
installation leaflet was very clear as to which pins were #1, #2, etc. the 
small plastic connector plug was not labeled the same way.  The leaflet has #1 
on the right, but the plastic connector has a #1 on the -left-.

The tachometer can be set for various resolutions (‘8 cylinder’, ‘6 cylinder’, 
and ‘4 cylinder’).  I have the Electron Ford Escort set at ‘8 cylinder’ go get 
a bit more resolution from the Ammeter (ex-tachometer). In 8-cylinder mode, 
1000 RPM = 50 amps.  At the max my controller puts out (about 350 amps) the 
‘RPM’ falls nicely in the yellow zone for the original ICE (7,000 RPM).   If I 
wanted to have a more direct 1:1000, I could set it for 4-cylinder mode, and 
1000 RPM would be 100 amps.

Again, this is how it works on a 1989 Ford Escort conversion.  Newer vehicles 
may use a different instrument cluster setup.

Tom Keenan

> On Oct 27, 2016, at 10:03 AM, ROBERT via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> 
> Paul, I would like to see the details.  Did you attached a temp sending unit 
> to the motor?   It may help to determine the signal type and level needed by 
> the ZEVA.
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org <mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org>> on 
> behalf of paul dove via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org <mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>>
> Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2016 4:30 AM
> To: Tom Keenan; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
> 
> I did this on my Celica. I can dig up the details if you want them.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Tom Keenan via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>> 
>> I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 
>> 7805 (if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the 
>> temperature gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor 
>> case). Works fine with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges.
>> 
>> Tom Keenan
>> 
>>> On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
>>> is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
>>> the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
>>> drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
>>> by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
>>> So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
>>> then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
>>> if it is too light...
>>> You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
>>> the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
>>> the position of the needle.
>>> No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
>>> below
>>> about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
>>> so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.
>>> 
>>> Success!
>>> 
>>> Cor van de Water
>>> Chief Scientist
>>> Proxim Wireless
>>> 
>>> office +1 408 383 7626                    Skype: cor_van_de_water
>>> XoIP   +31 87 784 1130                    private: cvandewater.info
>>> 
>>> http://www.proxim.com
> Proxim - Wireless Broadband, Backhaul Solutions and Access 
> ...<http://www.proxim.com/ <http://www.proxim.com/>>
> www.proxim.com <http://www.proxim.com/>
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> bridge, point to multipoint, wireless broadband and wireless access points.
> 
> 
>>> 
>>> This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and
>>> proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation.  If you received
>>> this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender.  Any
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>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
>>> To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
>>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>>> 
>>> So.  What does it matter?  Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
>>> sensor?  Look at the vehicle wiring diagram.  If the sensor came to the
>>> PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
>>> out the PCM signal type or level.  The PCM is gone.  Look at what you
>>> have at present .... a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
>>> signal requirements.  Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
>>> the devices.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
>>> <ev@lists.evdl.org>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
>>> To: ev@lists.evdl.org
>>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
>>> 
>>> 
>>> The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
>>> the tank
>>> sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.
>>> 
>>> Bill
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