It all made sense to me Robert.
The bi-metal instrument regulator makes 5 volts and a 7805 makes 5 volts.
The motor case gets hot a bit later than the windings, but it generally
takes a while to fry the windings, so knowing the motor case temperature
is not perfect, but quite useful.
Bill D.
On 10/26/2016 11:11 PM, ROBERT via EV wrote:
I give up. The statement "I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid
state 7805 " does not make sense. A voltage regulator is used with an alternator or a
generator. In addition, a bi-metal regulator is an old style regulator. Also, the 7805 is an IC
voltage chip that output 5VDC (i.e. 05). So you replaced a 12VDC regulator with a 5VDC source ...
I do not think so. The statement "(I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case)
Works fine with the ZEVA unit" The ZEVA unit is for SOC and amp measurement and you used a
temp sending unit. In addition, why did you want to measure the temperature of the motor case? By
the time the case gets hot, the motor windings are fried. You use RTDs embedded in the motor
windings to measure the temperature of an electric motor for protect. I give up.
________________________________
From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Tom Keenan via EV
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 5:59 PM
To: Cor van de Water; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
I ended up replacing the bi-metal 'voltage regulator' with a solid state 7805
(if memory serves) to provide voltage to the fuel gauge and the temperature
gauge (I use an OEM temp sending unit attached to the motor case). Works fine
with the ZEVA unit on the '89 style gauges.
Tom Keenan
On Oct 26, 2016, at 3:33 PM, Cor van de Water via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
Reason your resistor goes up in smoke at the end of the scale
is that the display of the tank level takes quite a bit of power,
the (cheap and rugged) way Ford did this was using a bi-metal to
drive the needle and a *heater* to control the position of the needle
by bending the bi-metal due to it getting warm.
So, if it requires say 1/4 Amp at the minimum resistance of the heater
then the resistor may need to be able to dissipate 2 Watts or burn up
if it is too light...
You should be able to drive the needle by outputting a voltage, probably
the easiest is a PWM controlled output, with the duty cycle controlling
the position of the needle.
No resistors needed. But you are likely to see that the PWM must stay
below
about 50% duty cycle or it overheats the bi-metal (needle in the corner)
so set the start (empty) and end (full) PWM limits accordingly.
Success!
Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless
office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water
XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info
http://www.proxim.com
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-----Original Message-----
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of ROBERT via EV
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 3:21 PM
To: Bill Collins; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
So. What does it matter? Did the PCM drive the gauge or did the tank
sensor? Look at the vehicle wiring diagram. If the sensor came to the
PCM, and the PCM output a signal to the gauge then you will never figure
out the PCM signal type or level. The PCM is gone. Look at what you
have at present .... a gauge and Amp transmitter and determine their
signal requirements. Do not guess ... get the spec or you may damage
the devices.
________________________________
From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bill Collins via EV
<ev@lists.evdl.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 11:33 AM
To: ev@lists.evdl.org
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone
The PCM probably had a resistor to a regulated voltage source, so that
the tank
sender produced a varying voltage instead of just a resistance.
Bill
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