Never use a sledge hammer when a tack hammer will work. Your problem is a simple interface problem. The AutoblockAmp outputs a signal to drive a gauge. Look at the specifications for the AutoblockAmp and determine the type of output signal (resistance, voltage, etc.) and the level of the signal (22 - 240 Ohm, 0 - 5VDC, etc.). Another method is to connect a multi-meter from the AutoblockAmp signal output pin and the negative/ground pin on the AutoblockAmp. I would try the AC voltage scale first (it is the safest selection) then I would try the DC scale, and then the resistance scale. If the output is a PWM signal, the meter will fluctuate. I like to use an analog meter so that I can see the minimum and maximum needle movement. After you determine the type and level of signal that the AutoblockAmp outputs then determine the input that the fuel gauge requires. The specification for the fuel gauge should be available from Ford or search the web or call the local Ford de aler and ask a mechanics. After you get this info, if necessary, you can easily replace the fuel meter with a compatible meter. Why design a custom interface using a microcontroller for such a simple problem? From reading the info on the AutoblockAmp from the web, it appears that your AutoblockAmp is an older model that is not programmable? If it is programmable, the type of output signal may be programmable. If you want to discuss the more, my e-mail is bhensle...@msn.com.
________________________________ From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Rick Beebe via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2016 8:46 AM Cc: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electronics help anyone I actually have a Zeva sitting on my workbench. It had the same problem. I replaced it with the AutoblockAMP in large part because of the programmability of the latter plus the packaging is much more industrial. Thanks Bill. I'm actually quite versed in Arduinos. I built a battery box heat controller using a Pro Mini, a relay board and some temperature probes. I have an ISAScale high precision shunt with CANBus output that I'm playing with that I'll use an Arduino to read and to display SOC, Amps, etc on a small LCD that I'll imbed in the dash. I actually do have that setup driving a fuel gauge. I was resisting going that route for this just because I also have to find a place to put it, get an appropriate power supply, etc. But it may be the best option. --Rick > On Oct 26, 2016, at 1:33 AM, Tom Keenan <tnan...@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I have a similar device in my old Electron Ford Escort - a ZEVA fuel gauge > driver plus. It works quite well with the old Ford analog gauges. > http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144 [http://www.evwest.com/catalog/images/thumbs/def/display/products/zeva-fuel-gauge-driver-plus-4.jpg]<http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144> ZEVA Fuel Gauge Driver Plus, EV West - Electric Vehicle ...<http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=144> www.evwest.com This device displays the state of charge of your EV's battery pack on the factory fuel gauge in your dash. The FGD+ is also able to drive your factory ... > You might try their setup file - might be the same device as the one you > have, just made in Australia. > Tom Keenan > >> On Oct 25, 2016, at 1:05 PM, Rick Beebe via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote: >> >> I have a 1998 Ford Ranger (http://evalbum.com/4674) that I bought as a [http://www.evalbum.com/imgm.php?n=4674a.jpg&w=250&h=140]<http://evalbum.com/4674> Rick's 1998 Ford Ranger - evalbum.com<http://evalbum.com/4674> evalbum.com Owner: Rick Beebe: Location: Hamden, Connecticut US map: Email: Vehicle: 1998 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab (White) extended cab. 6' bed. 5 speed manual. Bed lift ... >> lead-acid EV and converted it to Lithium. In the process I replaced >> almost everything. I bought an AutoblockAMP from RechargeCar (sadly, >> discontinued). It's a slick hall-effect current sensor that measures >> current and counts amp-hours. It outputs a pulsed signal to show amps on >> a tach (works great). It has another line that puts out 12v to light up >> a "low battery" light at some specified threshold and a third one that, >> I believe, uses PWM to ground to simulate a variable resister to drive >> the fuel gauge to show SOC. >> >> I have the service manual for the truck and indeed it shows a single >> wire from the gauge to the sensor in the tank. 22ohms empty and 240ohms >> full (that's from memory so don't quote me). The problem is it doesn't >> work. Connecting that wire to ground through any resistance does >> nothing. The engine computer (PCM) was removed during the initial >> conversion. The fuel sensor wire also went to the PCM but I don't see >> anything in the wiring diagram that should influence the gauge. What I >> have discovered is that I can make the gauge work by supplying voltage >> rather than a connection to ground. 2volts is empty and 9volts is full. >> >> I haven't got a clue as to the piece of magic that the PCM (or some >> other wire) must have provided such that the gauge is now "backwards." >> So I've tried seeing if I can convert the AutoblockAMP signal. My first >> attempt was to use it as 1/2 of a voltage divider and that sort-of >> worked except for finding the right value to drive the gauge full scale. >> Plus if, while I'm adjusting the ABAMP and I get too close to one end >> of the scale the resister burns up. My second attempt, thinking it was a >> PWM signal, was to use a PNP mosfet. That looked promising but isn't >> driving the gauge linearly enough. It goes from full to empty in the >> first quarter of the SOC. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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