Start with a Series 2 Bluebird block (better oil flow and Probably less
kays)
Lightened flywheel and add new clutch (might as well as the engine is out,
use original crank and rods as for pistons use i think 260Z pistons as they
are a L20 plus 30 thou over (as about that), including the front pulley send
all this away to be balanced which isn't expensive at all.
Probably best to start with a 180B head and get it ported as the combustion
chambers are different (filled in) then add 280ZX valves to the inlet side.
Get the largest cam possible to be fitted without shims (personal
preference) and the standard series 2 electronic dizzy with aftermarket
coil.
As you mentioned induction if you are refering to turbocharging watch your
compression ratio it may be too depending on pistons and it will ping thus
making you angry cause you can't give it shit all the time.
Sorry about the sketchy details but its been probably 3 years since i built
my last L series i'm into Sr20DET's now
That combo will net probably 175hp plus i dunno about 200hp
Rhys
>From: "Andrew Kubenk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 22:41:05 +0950
>
>
>ive got a mate with a fairly tough L20 in a stanza and we were discussing
>freshening
>up the old donk.
>so
>i need a few suggestions on making about 200 flywheel hp fairly reliably.
>we are starting with, 2x45 webers, datrally manifold, fairly ported head,
>larger
>valves, flat tops.
>please advise as to how far the head (port, polish, valve size) and
>block(pistons?
>balancing etc) needs to go as well as possible upgrades to induction
>without
>too many electronic gizmos.
>please advise and thanking in advance.
>andrew
>
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