Most of the Early Nissan EFI systems are pretty similar and mine runs 
with the bare minimum of connections hooked up so I guess I would try 
that to begin with, it should only need the -ve coil pulse, a constant 
12v and a switched 12v to work (plus an earth of course).  I would try 
checking that the throttle position sensor wasn't damaged during the 
swap, because mine only worked intermittently at the start and it just 
went haywire sometimes, nearly stalling then idling at 2000rpm etc until 
Errol sent me another one to fix it.  Like Terry said, it sounds like 
it's engaged 'limp-home-mode' for some reason (usually a sensor fault- 
I've had this too with the water temp sensor plug which I broke :) which 
for my ECU means it runs insanely rich mixtures but maybe yours just 
wont go over a certain injector duty cycle?

Not much but I hope this helps..

-  Tom

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>Is anyone familiar with the EFI from a 280ZX? I've just fitted an L28E from
>a 280ZX into a 1975 Datsun Laurel complete with the injection and I have a
>problem. I've wired it up as it should be according to the Nissan diagram
>and it started first time but won't rev over 1800 rpm! At that speed the
>injectors cut out and it dies until the revs have dropped a bit then the cut
>back in.
>
>I've checked all the connections and everything seems fine. The system was
>running fine before the transplant. At first I thought it may be a faulty
>AFM but I've tested it and the wiring harness and it's fine. I've even tried
>a different AFM but there was no change. The fuel pressure is fine (I tested
>the VW pump before fitting and it was good and I've fitted a new regulator)
>
>The only connection from the ignition to the ECU is the one from the
>negative terminal on the coil to pin#1 on the ECU....could this be causing a
>problem?
>
>Anybody got any ideas?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Eddie Rattley
>England
>www.ratdat.com
>
>
>


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