i've owned like 20 mercedes cars and i only miss 2:

w123 diesel wagon
w115 diesel, 4 on the floor


On Mon, Dec 23, 2013 at 2:20 PM, Andrew Strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>wrote:

> It is constructive.  Do not overly improve something when it is functioning
> as intended, or you will burn a big hole in your pocket!  I learned this
> the hard way.
>
> AS
> 1983 300TD
> 1983 300TD
> Each charming in its own way, though not perfect.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2013 at 1:27 PM, <r...@rhonald.me> wrote:
>
> >
> >  I will respond below:
> >
> > -------- Original Message --------
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 '85 TD Wagon castor Adjustors and other
> > suspension stuff
> > From: Andrew Strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>
> > Date: Sun, December 22, 2013 10:52 am
> > To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >
> > The word I use is perfectify.
> >
> > *Andrew, I would appreciate more constructive advice, since you own the
> > same car, do you really think this is "fun for me"?.*
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 22, 2013 at 10:50 AM, Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com
> > >wrote:
> >
> > > If Martha wouldn't replace it then it doesn't need done.........lol
> > >
> > > *Martha is not driving my car, I am.*
> >
> > I didn't catch the part about still sitting level.
> >
> > *I was saying, the car sits level as compared with any other car.*
> >
> >  Sure does seem like a
> > > lot of work for "it's old, it might go bad, new is better".
> >
> > *I think you missed my point.  The point was...if one is installing A,
> and
> > B &C (rubber parts or other little parts) sit next to it, given the
> > mileage, does it make sense to replace C, rather than incurr the same
> > (labor cost/time wasted to drive out to the shop) to go back to the same
> > area to swap out (c)?*  * I have been reading how rubber parts deform,
> > crack, etc.  If I have to spend for labor, I want to make the most of
> it.*
> >
> >   The whole car is a collection of used parts, why pick out ones that
> > aren't broken to
> > > upgrade to new?
> >
> > *See above...*
> >
> >
> >
> > /  It'll be ok, make it drive nice and be safe and call it
> > > good. If it ain't broke, don't fix it is the motto around here.
> > > Mike
> >
> > That is what I am after Mike, I am not attempting to "restore" the entire
> > car.
> >
> >
> > > On Dec 22, 2013 9:51 AM, "Dan Penoff" <d...@penoff.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I would agree, as even my level of nit-pickyness wouldn't mandate
> > > > replacing adjusting bolts unless they were coming out for another
> job.
> >
> >       *Dan, that is one of the questions I have been trying get answers
> > to, if something else was coming out for another job, wouldn't it make
> > sense to do it then?  I also also asked, how would you tell from driving
> > about the bolts?*
> > > >
> > > > I see a lot of the work specified here as being near overkill. How
> > leaky
> > > > are the rear struts?
> >
> >       I assumed they leak bad enough because the ride sucks at this
> > point.
> >
> > Is the rear suspension clunking?
> >
> >       Banging and Thumping
> >
> > If the
> > > > self-leveling system is working properly and not bottoming out under
> > load
> > > > or driving conditions, there is nothing that would indicate
> replacement
> > >    of the major components.
> >
> > *Well, something needs doing, as I say it rides like a skateboard; Who'
> is
> > around the DC,VA,MD area?  I would be happy to drive somewhere so you can
> > here and feel what I am talking about. *
> >
> >  I would add that a number of people have
> > > > successfully rebuilt leaky rear struts as well.
> >
> > *Well, I don't engage in DIY on the car, so rebuilding leaky struts is
> not
> > happening I guess.  *
> >
> > > > I wonder about the amount of work going into a car of that age. You
> > have
> > > > to take a step back and ask yourself if it's really necessary.
> >
> > *I hear what you are saying, but what I see as "necessary" is different
> > from the next guy. Not sure what "bottoming out means,  but the ride is
> > harsh, almost "BANG, THUMP" when riding over bumps and rough pavement.
> I
> > don't like driving cars where the suspension feels like it is holding
> > together by rubber bands!   I have loaded it with chairs, tables and
> boxes
> > and I did not notice that it sagged in the rear.  Would this suggest that
> > the leveling is working properly? I drove to Baltimore, and to
> Kensington,
> > MD and it was fine as far as handling.   I had suspension work done (4
> > shocks, and ball joints/bushings on the black sedan, and it made a world
> of
> > difference in the ride.*
> > > >
> > > > I'm thinking someone's mechanic is looking to buy a new boat....
> >
> > > > Dan
> >
> > > > *I have no control over that decision, but it is really none of my
> > business.  That is neither here nor there.  The car needs work, and I
> > don't/can't do it, I am stuck with the car because I paid too much for
> it,
> > the mechanic who worked on it before I got it sucks, and somebody has to
> do
> > its so it looks like I don't have a choice in the matter.*
> >
> > > > On Dec 22, 2013, at 9:34 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Replacing the rear control arms for play? What? That sounds
> > > ridiculous.
> > > > > Why wouldn't you replace just loose bushings?
> > *OK, it is the bearings, and I am just telling you what  have on my notes
> > from the shop.  These would be rear control arm bushings?  But there no
> > mention there is a problem with them.*
> >
> > > > > Replace camber adjusting bolts? Unless the car is so rusty they
> won't
> > > > come out without damage there is no need to replace them. They don't
> > wear
> > > > out.
> >
> > OK
> > > > >
> > > > > I don't know your mechanic but it sounds like he saw you coming and
> > is
> > > > > taking advantage of your lack of expertise on the subject.
> >
> > *No, you don't know them so please refrain from passing so much
> judgement,
> > where are you located, would look my car over?*
> > > > >
> > > > > Anyone else catch that?
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > On Dec 21, 2013 6:56 PM, <r...@rhonald.me> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> OK, I am getting new Bilstein shocks in front, Sachs-Boge self
> > > leveling
> > > > >> shocks and Febi accumulators in the rear. The car is still
> perfectly
> > > > level
> > > > >> even when loaded.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> 1. While the car is up, the shop says the castor adjustors have
> wear
> > > > >> (small). Does it make sense to do this now? From what I have seen,
> > > it
> > > > >> relates to the front end alignment. I am getting confused looking
> at
> > > > >> parts. Is this what I need x 2?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> * 1163300018 *
> > > > >> <http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/1163300018.jpg>
> > > Genuine
> > > > >> Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>
> > > > >> Alignment Caster/Camber Kit; Front Lower Inner; Eccentric Bolt Kit
> > > > >> 2 kits per car.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> 2. Deciding whether to have the ball joints done at the same time
> > > > though
> > > > >> there is no inspection reports of wear noted and the car does not
> > > > present
> > > > >> any tracking issues. Is it possible to check anything when it is
> not
> > > on
> > > > >> the lift? Two boots and two boot kits, correct? Just wanting to
> get
> > > > >> everything tight again. The black sedan is all done and it made a
> > > > world of
> > > > >> difference, but...just in time for two huge tree branches to smash
> > the
> > > > top
> > > > >> in the middle. Sighhhh!
> > > > >>
> > > > >> 3. Where is the hydraulic suspension filter located for the self
> > > > leveling
> > > > >> suspension in the rear?
> > > > >>
> > > > >> * 0021845501 *
> > > > >> <http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0021845501.jpg>
> > > Genuine
> > > > >> Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>
> > > > >> Hydraulic Suspension Oil Filter
> > > > >> For models with self-leveling rear suspension.
> > > > >> 4. I have to wait on the Rear Control Arms. Told they have some
> > > play.
> > > > >> Not sure how to feel this when driving.
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Thanks
> > > > >>
> > > > >> R
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> -------- Original Message --------
> > > > >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 '85 TD Wagon oil cooler lines
> > > > >> From: Gary Hurst <jabbahur...@gmail.com>
> > > > >> Date: Sat, December 21, 2013 12:38 pm
> > > > >> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> also, that's just hte upper hose. the lower hose might just be
> > > available
> > > > >> only in tructec or genuine mercedes, so you might have to get the
> > > lower
> > > > >> one in genuine or just live with the tructec. seems i too have a
> > > special
> > > > >> agreement with monark to sell you those hoses, but i'd probably
> get
> > a
> > > > >> genuine one if i were you if the tructec actually turns out
> chinese
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 11:24 AM, <r...@rhonald.me> wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >>> Morning All, I am ready to replace the oil cooler hoses on the
> > > wagon. I
> > > > >>> was price shopping, and came across these.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > >
> > >
> >
> https://mercedessource.com/store/116-123-617-turbo-diesel-upper-oil-cooler-hose-instructions
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Has anyone had experience with these? The German company?
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Looking for recommendations.
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> Thanks
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>> R
> > > > >>> 85 300TD Wagon 230,000 miles
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
> > > > >>>
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> > > > >>>
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
> > > > >> --
> > > > >>
> > > > >>
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> > > cars*
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