I'd like to re-engage on this.  You mention replacing a lot of stuff on this
old car.  Are you doing this yourself or paying someone?  The reason I ask
is you may be spending $$$ to fix what ain't broke.  If you want to build a
show car, that's one thing.  But if you want a useful transportation
workhorse you need to identify the (probably few) real problems vs changing
parts at semi random.  

 

Front shocks are conventional and can be changed at any time; you don't need
to disassemble the front suspension to replace front shocks.  

 

The rear shocks are hydraulic cylinders and never need to be replaced unless
they leak or show obvious damage.  Those two rear spherical accumulators do
wear out (they lose the gas charge) but that will be obvious as a real hard
ride, effectively a hydraulically-locked rear suspension.  If the ride isn't
hard, the accumulators are probably OK.  There are rubber bushings in the
rear trailing arms which get hard and there is one large rubber piece on
each rear side (which gets deformed) that effects ride and ride height and
may need replacement but doesn't require disassembling the rear suspension
(I forget what it is called).  But seriously, if the back end isn't leaking,
stays level, and doesn't ride hard, it's probably OK.

 

Front shocks are conventional and can be changed at any time; you don't need
to disassemble the front suspension to replace front shocks.  At the front
end, the upper ball joint assembly seldom wears out if the boot is intact.
It carries very little load.  Also, depending on corrosion, there is danger
of breaking the end off the torsion bar (required to replace upper ball
joint/bushings) so don't mess with that just for fun.  The lower ball joint
bears the weight of the car so if it shows movement or the boot is torn
replacement will eventually become a safety issue.  The ball joints are
cheap; get good ones.  The labor to replace them isn't so cheep and some
special tools ate needed.  Frankly, if the lower ball joint boots are OK the
ball joint is probably OK too.  Also at the front end are guide rods (aka
brake rods) that brace the outer end of the lower control arm against the
chassis.  These can get dry and wear out.  

 

I guess the main thing is to assess the condition of all the parts before
you start replacing things.  With new suspension rubber it may ride like a
new car but it isn't a new car.  So don't waste a lot of cash on a fool's
errand.

 

There are other important things like brakes, engine mounts, and flex disks
that you need to look at.

 

Scott

 

  _____  

From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
r...@rhonald.me
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 '85 TD Wagon castor Adjustors and other
suspensionstuff

 

OK, I am getting new Bilstein shocks in front, Sachs-Boge self leveling
shocks and Febi accumulators in the rear.  The car is still perfectly level
even when loaded.

 

1.  While the car is up, the shop says the castor adjustors have wear
(small).  Does it make sense to do this now?  From what I have seen, it
relates to the front end alignment. I am getting confused looking at parts.
Is this what I need x 2?

 



1163300018 


Genuine Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>  
Alignment Caster/Camber Kit; Front Lower Inner; Eccentric Bolt Kit 
2 kits per car. 


 

2.  Deciding whether to have the ball joints done at the same time though
there is no inspection reports of wear noted and the car does not present
any tracking issues.  Is it possible to check anything when it is not on the
lift?  Two boots and two boot kits, correct?  Just wanting to get everything
tight again.  The black sedan is all done and it made a world of difference,
but...just in time for two huge tree branches to smash the top in the
middle.  Sighhhh!  

 

3.  Where is the hydraulic suspension filter located for the self leveling
suspension in the rear? 

 



0021845501 


Genuine Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>  
Hydraulic Suspension Oil Filter 
For models with self-leveling rear suspension. 


4.  I have to wait on the Rear Control Arms.  Told they have some play.  Not
sure how to feel this when driving.

 

 

Thanks

 

R

  

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