I rebuilt the front suspension on a TD and an SD.  That part is just a bolt 
with that cam washer head to adjust in/out on the lower control arm.  It is not 
really a wear item.

As mentioned elsewhere you probably have worn bushings which are rubber sleeves 
inside the inner control arm attachments.  That would give the impression of 
loose. The upper can be changed relatively easy but the lower requires spring 
removal.  If you decide to do that (and it is a job doable in the driveway, 
nothing too exotic but you need a spring compressor and an air impact wrench 
helps) you might as well renew the ball joints and some links on the steering 
too.  You might want to do the uppers (you buy the arm/bushing already 
assembled) then see if there is still play, which is likely.  That will mean 
lower bushing time.  It is a separate part you press in once the old bushing 
comes out of the arm.

That of course depends on how long you want to keep the car as the parts will 
be a few hundred dollars and whatever labor costs.  Once done it will be good 
another 20 or 30 years and 200k or 300k miles.

I have a writeup on doing the job on the TD and pics of the SD but did not do a 
writeup.

--R (sent from my miniPad)

On Dec 22, 2013, at 3:26 AM, "Scott Ritchey" <ritche...@nc.rr.com> wrote:

I can address the ball joints.  Jack the front end to unload the wheel and
try to wiggle the tire from the top and bottom.  If it moves at the bottom
ball joint, replace the ball joint.  Also, if the ball joint boot is torn,
replace the ball joint.  



To replace the ball joint the steering knuckle must be removed completely,
which involves removing the brake caliper and the hub/brake disk/dust shield
assembly first.  There are two special tools that let you disconnect the
upper ball joint (first) and then the lower ball joint (second) to remove
the knuckle/spindle.  The ball joint can be pounded out of the spindle with
a big hammer but another special tool (there are two types) is needed to
press in the new ball joint without damaging the boot.  



I haven't done the inboard bushing where camber gets adjusted.  The
eccentric kit you show is just the bolt, which may be OK.  The main thing to
replace is the rubber bushing assembly which requires removal of the lower
control arm.  And that requires a GOOD spring compressor.  This is a big job



The shocks are not difficult to replace and don't require special tools
other than 12 point sockets the correct size.



As I recall, that filter goes inside the fluid reservoir, which is inside
the engine compartment.



Concerning this suspension/steering work.  It's probably investigating first
to see what really needs to be replaced.  Inspecting for torn ball joint
boots is trivial.  Ball joint shake is easy.  Inspecting the bushing at the
eccentric takes some experience.



Scott



 _____  

From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
r...@rhonald.me
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:56 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 '85 TD Wagon castor Adjustors and other
suspensionstuff



OK, I am getting new Bilstein shocks in front, Sachs-Boge self leveling
shocks and Febi accumulators in the rear.  The car is still perfectly level
even when loaded.



1.  While the car is up, the shop says the castor adjustors have wear
(small).  Does it make sense to do this now?  From what I have seen, it
relates to the front end alignment. I am getting confused looking at parts.
Is this what I need x 2?





1163300018 
<http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/1163300018.jpg> 


Genuine Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>  
Alignment Caster/Camber Kit; Front Lower Inner; Eccentric Bolt Kit 
2 kits per car. 




2.  Deciding whether to have the ball joints done at the same time though
there is no inspection reports of wear noted and the car does not present
any tracking issues.  Is it possible to check anything when it is not on the
lift?  Two boots and two boot kits, correct?  Just wanting to get everything
tight again.  The black sedan is all done and it made a world of difference,
but...just in time for two huge tree branches to smash the top in the
middle.  Sighhhh!  



3.  Where is the hydraulic suspension filter located for the self leveling
suspension in the rear? 





0021845501 
<http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0021845501.jpg> 


Genuine Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>  
Hydraulic Suspension Oil Filter 
For models with self-leveling rear suspension. 


4.  I have to wait on the Rear Control Arms.  Told they have some play.  Not
sure how to feel this when driving.





Thanks



R



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 '85 TD Wagon oil cooler lines
From: Gary Hurst <jabbahur...@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, December 21, 2013 12:38 pm
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>

also, that's just hte upper hose. the lower hose might just be available
only in tructec or genuine mercedes, so you might have to get the lower
one in genuine or just live with the tructec. seems i too have a special
agreement with monark to sell you those hoses, but i'd probably get a
genuine one if i were you if the tructec actually turns out chinese


> On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 11:24 AM, <r...@rhonald.me> wrote:
> 
> Morning All, I am ready to replace the oil cooler hoses on the wagon. I
> was price shopping, and came across these.
https://mercedessource.com/store/116-123-617-turbo-diesel-upper-oil-cooler-h
ose-instructions
> 
> Has anyone had experience with these? The German company?
> 
> Looking for recommendations.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> R
> 85 300TD Wagon 230,000 miles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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-- 


*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com <http://www.BuyEUROparts.com>*
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