I will respond below:
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 '85 TD Wagon castor Adjustors and other
suspension stuff
From: Andrew Strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, December 22, 2013 10:52 am
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
The word I use is perfectify.Andrew, I would appreciate more constructive advice, since you own the same car, do you really think this is "fun for me"?.
On Sun, Dec 22, 2013 at 10:50 AM, Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com>wrote:
> If Martha wouldn't replace it then it doesn't need done.........lol
>
> Martha is not driving my car, I am.I didn't catch the part about still sitting level.I was saying, the car sits level as compared with any other car.Sure does seem like a
> lot of work for "it's old, it might go bad, new is better".I think you missed my point. The point was...if one is installing A, and B &C (rubber parts or other little parts) sit next to it, given the mileage, does it make sense to replace C, rather than incurr the same (labor cost/time wasted to drive out to the shop) to go back to the same area to swap out (c)? I have been reading how rubber parts deform, crack, etc. If I have to spend for labor, I want to make the most of it.The whole car is a collection of used parts, why pick out ones that aren't broken to
> upgrade to new?See above.../ It'll be ok, make it drive nice and be safe and call it
> good. If it ain't broke, don't fix it is the motto around here.> MikeThat is what I am after Mike, I am not attempting to "restore" the entire car.
> On Dec 22, 2013 9:51 AM, "Dan Penoff" <d...@penoff.com> wrote:
>
> > I would agree, as even my level of nit-pickyness wouldn't mandate
> > replacing adjusting bolts unless they were coming out for another job.Dan, that is one of the questions I have been trying get answers to, if something else was coming out for another job, wouldn't it make sense to do it then? I also also asked, how would you tell from driving about the bolts?
> >
> > I see a lot of the work specified here as being near overkill. How leaky
> > are the rear struts?I assumed they leak bad enough because the ride sucks at this point.Is the rear suspension clunking?Banging and ThumpingIf the
> > self-leveling system is working properly and not bottoming out under load
> > or driving conditions, there is nothing that would indicate replacement
> of the major components.Well, something needs doing, as I say it rides like a skateboard; Who' is around the DC,VA,MD area? I would be happy to drive somewhere so you can here and feel what I am talking about.I would add that a number of people have
> > successfully rebuilt leaky rear struts as well.Well, I don't engage in DIY on the car, so rebuilding leaky struts is not happening I guess.> > I wonder about the amount of work going into a car of that age. You have
> > to take a step back and ask yourself if it's really necessary.I hear what you are saying, but what I see as "necessary" is different from the next guy. Not sure what "bottoming out means, but the ride is harsh, almost "BANG, THUMP" when riding over bumps and rough pavement. I don't like driving cars where the suspension feels like it is holding together by rubber bands! I have loaded it with chairs, tables and boxes and I did not notice that it sagged in the rear. Would this suggest that the leveling is working properly? I drove to Baltimore, and to Kensington, MD and it was fine as far as handling. I had suspension work done (4 shocks, and ball joints/bushings on the black sedan, and it made a world of difference in the ride.
> >
> > I'm thinking someone's mechanic is looking to buy a new boat....
> > Dan
> > I have no control over that decision, but it is really none of my business. That is neither here nor there. The car needs work, and I don't/can't do it, I am stuck with the car because I paid too much for it, the mechanic who worked on it before I got it sucks, and somebody has to do its so it looks like I don't have a choice in the matter.
> > On Dec 22, 2013, at 9:34 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:
> >
> > > Replacing the rear control arms for play? What? That sounds
> ridiculous.
> > > Why wouldn't you replace just loose bushings?OK, it is the bearings, and I am just telling you what have on my notes from the shop. These would be rear control arm bushings? But there no mention there is a problem with them.
> > > Replace camber adjusting bolts? Unless the car is so rusty they won't
> > come out without damage there is no need to replace them. They don't wear
> > out.OK
> > >
> > > I don't know your mechanic but it sounds like he saw you coming and is
> > > taking advantage of your lack of expertise on the subject.No, you don't know them so please refrain from passing so much judgement, where are you located, would look my car over?
> > >
> > > Anyone else catch that?
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > On Dec 21, 2013 6:56 PM, <r...@rhonald.me> wrote:
> > >
> > >> OK, I am getting new Bilstein shocks in front, Sachs-Boge self
> leveling
> > >> shocks and Febi accumulators in the rear. The car is still perfectly
> > level
> > >> even when loaded.
> > >>
> > >> 1. While the car is up, the shop says the castor adjustors have wear
> > >> (small). Does it make sense to do this now? From what I have seen,
> it
> > >> relates to the front end alignment. I am getting confused looking at
> > >> parts. Is this what I need x 2?
> > >>
> > >> * 1163300018 *
> > >> <http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/1163300018.jpg>
> Genuine
> > >> Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>
> > >> Alignment Caster/Camber Kit; Front Lower Inner; Eccentric Bolt Kit
> > >> 2 kits per car.
> > >>
> > >> 2. Deciding whether to have the ball joints done at the same time
> > though
> > >> there is no inspection reports of wear noted and the car does not
> > present
> > >> any tracking issues. Is it possible to check anything when it is not
> on
> > >> the lift? Two boots and two boot kits, correct? Just wanting to get
> > >> everything tight again. The black sedan is all done and it made a
> > world of
> > >> difference, but...just in time for two huge tree branches to smash the
> > top
> > >> in the middle. Sighhhh!
> > >>
> > >> 3. Where is the hydraulic suspension filter located for the self
> > leveling
> > >> suspension in the rear?
> > >>
> > >> * 0021845501 *
> > >> <http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0021845501.jpg>
> Genuine
> > >> Mercedes <http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brandnames.html>
> > >> Hydraulic Suspension Oil Filter
> > >> For models with self-leveling rear suspension.
> > >> 4. I have to wait on the Rear Control Arms. Told they have some
> play.
> > >> Not sure how to feel this when driving.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Thanks
> > >>
> > >> R
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -------- Original Message --------
> > >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 '85 TD Wagon oil cooler lines
> > >> From: Gary Hurst <jabbahur...@gmail.com>
> > >> Date: Sat, December 21, 2013 12:38 pm
> > >> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> > >>
> > >> also, that's just hte upper hose. the lower hose might just be
> available
> > >> only in tructec or genuine mercedes, so you might have to get the
> lower
> > >> one in genuine or just live with the tructec. seems i too have a
> special
> > >> agreement with monark to sell you those hoses, but i'd probably get a
> > >> genuine one if i were you if the tructec actually turns out chinese
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 11:24 AM, <r...@rhonald.me> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> Morning All, I am ready to replace the oil cooler hoses on the
> wagon. I
> > >>> was price shopping, and came across these.
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> >
> https://mercedessource.com/store/116-123-617-turbo-diesel-upper-oil-cooler-hose-instructions
> > >>>
> > >>> Has anyone had experience with these? The German company?
> > >>>
> > >>> Looking for recommendations.
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks
> > >>>
> > >>> R
> > >>> 85 300TD Wagon 230,000 miles
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> _______________________________________
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> > >>>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european
> cars*
> > >> *www.BuyEUROparts.com <http://www.BuyEUROparts.com>*
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