I talked with a friend who is really into machining and welding about that 
concern, he assured me it is not. Heating to a nice red glow and then allowing 
it to cool back to room temperature, with no quenching, is not going to change 
the character or temper of that steel. Dimitri may also have some knowledge 
here.
 
The bigger danger is the fire hazard and the risk of burning your hands, both 
usually succumb to common sense precautions.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Mon Nov 04 10:40:28 EST 2019 MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
 
> That would make a difference in the removal.
> 
> The only problem I have with heating a significant 
> amount of a structural member is the question of 
> what it does to the temper of the metal and hence 
> the strength. I'd hate to be going around a corner 
> at speed and have the piece give away. May look 
> cool in a movie but....
> 
> Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
> 
>> 124 lower ball joints have the rim on the opposite side as a 123, so that
>> method won't work because the stem is in the way and needs to be dealt
>> with. I usually cut off the stem with the saw-z-all in order to get
>> clearance to fit the press or to make a flat surface to pound on. Leaving
>> the control arm mounted in the car means not much clearance between fender
>> and ball joint to swing a hammer. The first set I did, I cut them off and
>> hammered them out, that was a lot of work. Second set, rigged up adapters
>> to press them out after cutting off stem and heated up the arm / joint with
>> a torch, they pressed out pretty easy.
>> -------------
>> Max
>> Charleston SC
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 8:40 AM MG via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> They must be in there a lot tighter then in the
>>> 123. I knocked the ball joints out of mine with
>>> two hammers very easily. Put the ball of one
>>> hammer on the bottom of the ball joint and then
>>> hit the flat head of that hammer with a bigger
>>> one. The round ball end supposedly collapses the
>>> outside of joint and causes it to pull away from
>>> the socket it sits in and the whole thing pops
>>> right out with a few good hefty whacks.
>>> 
>>> I watched the tech do that with a set of ball
>>> joints on another 123 so I knew it worked for them.
>>> 
>>> Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
>>> 
>>>> The hazard fraught tool is a big C clamp, just one arm. The proper shop
>>>> 
>>> tool is a complete 'O', like two C clamps that share one screw, so it is
>>> very strong.
>>> 
>>>> I think I found a place that sold aftermarket version once, but mucho
>>>> 
>>> dinero. I'll check my book marks.
>>> 
>>>> Removal is much easier with generous application of the blue wrench,
>>>> 
>>> until the end of the control arm is just glowing dull red, and then hammer
>>> that sucker right out.
>>> 
>>>> Max Dillon
>>>> Charleston SC
>>>> 
>>>> Sat Nov 02 17:41:36 EDT 2019 Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
>>>> 
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>:
>>> 
>>>>> I am getting ready to do ball joints on a 201. I have done a 124 before
>>>>> using the HF tool and some sections of cast iron pipe connections for
>>>>> adapters. With this setup I got it done on the 124 years ago but it was
>>>>> a pain in the ass. I have located the pipe pieces I used but in the
>>>>> move I have no idea where the HF ball joint tool went to. I figure this
>>>>> would be a good time to just get the proper one. So, with that said,
>>>>> what is the proper tool? Car has about 180K on it, should I just pull
>>>>> the control arms and replace the bushings also? That requires another
>>>>> special tool to press those in and out?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> --
>>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
>>>>> https://www.avg.com
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> _______________________________________
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>>>>> 
>>>>> 
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