Thanks David; The "history brush" is not a term I'm familiar with, neither is "USM". Could someone explain a bit.
****PS: After all the talk of "Kill Files" and such I was a bit worried I'd joined a rather "Snobbish" list! I promise not to tell anyone but this one of the most helpful and friendly lists I've had the pleasure of joining. Tour even nice to us rookies!**** Thanx! Don > -----Original Message----- > From: David Miers [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2004 8:22 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: RE: 35mm Scanning Prices? > > > > > > > All suggestions welcome! :-/ > > > > Don > > > > > > > > Having a local processor scan them for you well, from what I've > seen, that's > a lost cause. If you don't want to scan your own I'd forget about > digitalized film. If I just have some snapshots and I feel lazy, I might > have a 1 hour lab process and print for me even yet. That often > costs less > then the ink and paper when printing yourself. Printing at home costs are > huge and when your calculating the savings of digital cameras it's really > only fair to consider the film itself and processing, which is > much cheaper > then processing and printing. The good part is, if I happen to > have a real > keeper image here, I still have the negative that I can go all out with > later for a better print. Prints from 1 hour labs suck, but as c41 > processing is fairly standardized they usually don't screw up the negative > too badly. > > Film scanning, editing, and printing has it's own learning curve which I'm > sure you can master if you can print in a color darkroom. If your working > with most flatbeds, you just added to your frustration. However I would > challenge you to a race with a ScanDual III. You have to give me the > handicap of having my film processed first though ok .. 8).. 15 minutes at > Walmart for $1.75 while we have a coffee. Ready set go, you start hooking > up your card or camera to computer, download your image, edit, and print. > I'll load my scanner, scan, edit, and print and you might be surprised > because you'd better keep moving or I might just win especially > with fairly > clean negatives just back from processing. On a larger group of > images, yes > I'll fall further behind probably, but you only said a couple..8). > > One thought for you though, film scans tend to need noise removal software > and the history brush in the full version of Photoshop is > important for dust > without losing all the detail you lose by just applying Dust & Scratch > removal. > >
