I bought a K3S and then I upgraded my #4XXX K3 which has two receivers with
every upgrade that Elecraft offered. It was mostly just a fun project, but
it's also a backup for the shack. One thing though, I swapped all the
filters and just put the 2.7KHz ones I got with the K3S in the K3. And I
also
Is there a menu item that says what synthesizer is installed?
Mike, NJ2OM
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Far worse than the K3 with the old synth in it.
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
On 1/25/21 5:04 PM, Wes wrote:
Yeah but... how did the Collins look?
Wes N7WS
On
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What was the last K3 serial number?
73, Dick WC1M
73, Dick WC1M
> On Jan 25, 2021, at 1:46 PM, Scott Manthe wrote:
>
> The K3 had the new board after SN 8800.
>
> 73,
> Scott N9AA
>
>
>> On 1/25/21 11:33 AM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>> Was the KSYN3A synthesizer ever built into the K3 as a
I wonder if I can upgrade my K3, (Sn # 53, yes 53), to the HRO-500
concentric knob? Anyone done that?
And yes, I have expressed interest to Elecraft for the synth upgrade.
We (K8AJ and myself) will be buying a K4, but when it shows up, um, she
gets primary use of it.
I'll be allowed to
to see what is in your radio.
73 Bill AE6JV
On 1/25/21 at 8:05 PM, hullspee...@gmail.com (Warren Merkel) wrote:
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 11:33:35 -0500
From: To: Henry Pollock - K4TMC
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Difference between a K3 and a K3S
Was the KSYN3A synthesizer ever
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 2021 11:33:35 -0500
From:
To: Henry Pollock - K4TMC
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Difference between a K3 and a K3S
Was the KSYN3A synthesizer ever built into the K3 as a standard item? If so,
beginning at what serial number?
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
Yes
Yeah but... how did the Collins look?
Wes N7WS
On 1/25/2021 5:16 PM, Dave Cole wrote:
I did something similar as well, I have a neighbor that lives around 700 feet
away, he ran a Collins S-Line. I convinced him to buy a K3, which he did.
I did screen grabs of his signal with the K3, and
Hi,
Remember those filters are Roofing Filters, not the normal filters you
see in a rig, and use to isolate a CW signal...
The digital filter, (you just dial the bandwidth you want from the front
panel), in the K3 far surpasses anything I have used in the past, I get
to very narrow
I did something similar as well, I have a neighbor that lives around 700
feet away, he ran a Collins S-Line. I convinced him to buy a K3, which
he did.
I did screen grabs of his signal with the K3, and neither of us having a
new synth, then when he installed his, then when I installed
I bought a K3 SN 8858 just before the K3S was announced at Dayton. It
had the new synthesizer. I was curious to see what the difference was
between the two and ran a few simple tests in my alleged lab using an
older K3 as a reference rig. I found the new rig had a lower noise
floor by a
Wow. Thanks for all the replies!
There are some options that I don't care about, like the extended receive
range. I would like the I/O board, DVR, 100w, ATU.
Not sure about the transverter but if I find a K3 that has it, fine. Is the
main reason for getting the transverter option is so you
D
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 1:03 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Difference between a K3 and a K3S
>
> I think it was, but have no idea what the starting S/N was. It was near the
> end of the K3 run.
>
> 73,
> Carl
> AB1DD
>
> Resistanc
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
> Behalf Of AB1DD
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 1:03 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Difference between a K3 and a K3S
>
> I think it was, but have no idea what the sta
: Monday, January 25, 2021 1:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Difference between a K3 and a K3S
I think it was, but have no idea what the starting S/N was. It was near the
end of the K3 run.
73,
Carl
AB1DD
Resistance is futile.
(don't know about reactance, though)
On 1
I agree.
My sort of early K3 ( s/n 17xx) simply has received every possible
upgrade put including the new synth board and the new I/O board. So is
pretty close to the K3S seems to me. If I was unlucky enough to have
purchased the last K3 I would have simply put in all the upgrades. Both
are
t-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of AB1DD
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 1:03 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Difference between a K3 and a K3S
>
> I think it was, but have no idea what the starting S/N was. It was near
> the end of the K3
...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of AB1DD
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 1:03 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Difference between a K3 and a K3S
I think it was, but have no idea what the starting S/N was. It was near
the end of the K3 run.
73,
Carl
The new I/O board was also an option that was sold separately as an upgrade
to the K3, as was the KXV3B, where the pre-amp was located. If you find a
K3 with all those upgrades plus the synth (like mine ;), it's pretty close
to the same thing as the K3S.
On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 7:48 AM AB1DD
The K3 had the new board after SN 8800.
73,
Scott N9AA
On 1/25/21 11:33 AM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
Was the KSYN3A synthesizer ever built into the K3 as a standard item? If so,
beginning at what serial number?
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
On Jan 25, 2021, at 10:51 AM, Henry Pollock - K4TMC wrote:
I think it was, but have no idea what the starting S/N was. It was near
the end of the K3 run.
73,
Carl
AB1DD
Resistance is futile.
(don't know about reactance, though)
On 1/25/2021 11:33 AM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
Was the KSYN3A synthesizer ever built into the K3 as a standard item? If so,
Was the KSYN3A synthesizer ever built into the K3 as a standard item? If so,
beginning at what serial number?
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
> On Jan 25, 2021, at 10:51 AM, Henry Pollock - K4TMC
> wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> You can look at the numbers on Sherwood Engineering's Receiver Test Data
>
The K3 has a bipolar HPA, the K3S is FET. In my case the bipolar is more
reliable and has lower TX IMD.
Wes N7WS
On 1/25/2021 8:48 AM, AB1DD wrote:
Mike,
You don't get the new knob and bezel!
Seriously, You don't have the new i/o board, with it's sound card built in and
USB
Sorry, the below att levels should have been Preamp levels, and the ATU
should be built in! Need another cup of coffee.
73,
Carl
AB1DD
Resistance is futile.
(don't know about reactance, though)
On 1/25/2021 10:48 AM, AB1DD wrote:
Mike,
You don't get the new knob and bezel!
Seriously, You
Mike,
You can look at the numbers on Sherwood Engineering's Receiver Test Data
List, specifically the 5th, 6th and 7th items from the top, and the KX3 is
just a few items lower.
73,
Henry - K4TMC
On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 10:29 AM NJMike wrote:
> If a K3 has been upgraded to the latest
Mike,
You don't get the new knob and bezel!
Seriously, You don't have the new i/o board, with it's sound card built
in and USB connectivity. There are a couple other things changed on the
mother board that you can't get anyway with out buying a K3S. They
weren't showstoppers for me. There is
If a K3 has been upgraded to the latest synthesizer - the KSYN3A - what's the
difference between it and the K3S?
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
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Buyer beware.
I bought a superb, almost new, almost unused Bird 8141, in its original box and
it failed after a short while. Taking it apart it was obvious that it had been
well and truly cooked. It must have been hammered. The main connection had
corroded and separated from the element.
I bought an air-cooled Bird 8201 rated 500w to 3-GHz from e-bay for
$300. It can handle 1500w for short transmissions.
73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
dubus...@gmail.com
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> On Jul 2, 2020, at 3:42 AM, NW0M wrote:
>
> Don't over-think this one. For 98% of us hams the MFJ dummy loads will work
> fine.
>
> The MFJ-260C is rated at 300 watts and sells for $50.
Looking at the rating curve in the manual, that is 300 W for 30 seconds or 100
W for 90 seconds.
For
I ordered the MFJ-260C. Thanks for all the replies!
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
> On Jul 2, 2020, at 6:44 AM, NW0M wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Don't over-think this one. For 98% of us hams the MFJ dummy loads will work
> fine.
>
> The MFJ-260C is rated at 300 watts and sells for $50.
>
> The
Hi Mike,
Don't over-think this one. For 98% of us hams the MFJ dummy loads will work
fine.
The MFJ-260C is rated at 300 watts and sells for $50.
The MFJ-264 is rated for 1500 watts (an Ohio vendor sells it for $80) if you
think an amplifier is in your future plans.
73, Mitch
--
Sent
I have a MFJ-264 which is rated for 100W more or less
continuously and 1500W for 10 seconds. It seems to work within
its specs. I've used it at up to 1KW or so.
I assume it is like most MFJ equipment, it does what it is
specified to do, but don't push it even a little bit beyond.
73 Bill
The difference between a "dry" and an "air cooled"? I think they are the
same. The difference is with "oil cooled". Heathkit used to sell a
"Cantenna" which was a dummy load in a gallon paint can. Add your own
transformer oil. IIRC it was rated for a KW for a short period.
Ken WA8JXM
On
A dry dummy load is good for up to its power rating - but do not exceed
that rating. The air cooled dummy loads not only require power for the
fan, but may be over-rated for their power spec.
I prefer dry or oil immersed dummy loads.
A good dummy load should present a 1.0 SWR for all the
Basically the same thing. I suggest the Vectronics DL-650 (dx engineering)
or a commercial pull from Ridge Equipment. For serious testing, I fire up
my 2GHz, 6kW water-cooled dummy load--louder than 10 KPA-1500s on PCP.
Always get more capacity than you need. --because you'll need it later. If
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An air-cooled dry dummy load is just fine for 100 W. I like the Oak Hills
Research RFL-100 kit. $50 and easy to build. It uses twenty 5 W resistors.
http://www.ohr.com/rfl100.htm
I wrote up my build of that kit here.
https://observer.wunderwood.org/2016/12/31/building-a-dummy-load/
If you
I need to purchase a dummy load for use with my K2/100. What's the
difference between a dry dummy load and an air cooled dummy load? Which is
better?
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
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Paul,
Comparing the technical side of the K2 DSP NR with the K3 NR is like
comparing apples and oranges.
The KDSP2 is DSP added at audio, while the K3 NR is done at the 15kHz IF.
The K3 offers many more settings that are available with the K2 DSP, so
I encourage you to experiment some more.
If anyone has a moment to provide instructions on how best to adjust the NR, I
would appreciate it as well.
73,
John
WA1EAZ
> On Jun 7, 2016, at 5:16 PM, Paul Wilton wrote:
>
> I have been using a K3S in a 2m SSB VHF contest this evening and find that
> the DSP NR is
I have been using a K3S in a 2m SSB VHF contest this evening and find that the
DSP NR is a bit a disappointment compared with my usual K2 rig. My QTH has a
fair degree on man-made noise so on the K2, I normally run with the NR at level
4 (factory settings - I haven’t adjusted them). However,
...and many of the improvements in the K3S can be retrofitted into a K3.
Elecraft has been superb in maintaining compatibility through its product
evolution.
/Rick N6XI
On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 7:48 PM, Nr4c wrote:
> Check the website for mods and I think you'll find that
Is there a difference between and early version of the K3 and a later version?
Just wondering if it is not updatable, etc.
Gary, AG1T
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Check the website for mods and I think you'll find that virtually all the
hardware mods and updates can be added to every vintage K3 up to April of 2015
when it was replaced by the K3S.
Sent from my iPad
...bc nr4c
> On Jan 19, 2016, at 10:27 PM, Gary Travis Roberts
>
Yes, all K3's can be upgraded to the point where the K3s was introduced.
My K3 S/N 0056 has been updated to the last configuration available.
73 - K0PP
On Jan 19, 2016 20:28, "Gary Travis Roberts"
wrote:
> Is there a difference between and early version of the K3
Hi Björn,
You can also take a look at my Unofficial Guide to Elecraft K2
Modifications at the address
http://la3za.blogspot.no/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
http://la3za.blogspot.no/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html .
It has a section describing the serial number
Hi,
can someone explain me the difference between AB? Is it nessesary to upgrade a
A to B?
I bought a used K2 with #14xx. So I expect rev. A.
vy 73 de Bjoern
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Bjoern,
The best description is in the K2 A to B instruction manual, so I would
suggest you download that and do a physical examination of your K2 to
see whether the upgrades have been done or not.
The A to B instructions also list several other associated upgrade mods,
so you might want to
Looking at the Pricing Sheet
What is the difference between;
Internal ATU w/2nd Ant. Jack @ $259, and
100-W Internal ATU, Installed @ $289...
Does that imply that the ATU w/@nd Ant will not handle 100W??
Dave KK7SS
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Dave G. wrote:
Looking at the Pricing Sheet
What is the difference between;
Internal ATU w/2nd Ant. Jack @ $259, and
100-W Internal ATU, Installed @ $289...
Does that imply that the ATU w/@nd Ant will not handle 100W??
Looks to me that the difference is between the 'no-solder kit'
Ken,
Thank you. I was still referring to the Spread Sheet put up by
wa5znu...
Dave KK7SS
If you check the Elecraft web site order form, you will find that they
fixed that.
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You must
Perhaps I should take my spreadsheet down now that Elecraft has their
real order form up. Thank you for pointing out the error...the last
thing I want to do is cause confusion.
Maybe my next project will be a filter-chooser wizard!
73,
Leigh/WA5ZNU
On Sat, 5 May 2007 4:07 pm, Dave G. wrote:
I have been playing with the KDSP2 on my K2 and was wondering if the
DSP filters are significantly different in their effects than the
effects of filters FL1 thru FL4.
To me, they seem a bit redundant, in terms of audio effect on listening.
Noise reduction is remarkable when
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