Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread Robin Bowes
honestguv wrote:
 Passive bi-amplification does almost nothing (but not quite nothing)
 and would appear to be mainly an old audiophile marketing tool.

I agree, active bi-amplification is better, but actually, passive 
bi-amping makes quite a considerable difference.

I used to use it myself until one of my amps packed up! :)

R.

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread NewBuyer

Robin Bowes;291936 Wrote: 
 honestguv wrote:
  Passive bi-amplification does almost nothing (but not quite
 nothing)
  and would appear to be mainly an old audiophile marketing tool.
 
 I agree, active bi-amplification is better, but actually, passive 
 bi-amping makes quite a considerable difference.
 
 I used to use it myself until one of my amps packed up! :)
 
 R.

I also agree, I have heard passive bi-amping make a very nice
improvement with some 2-way passive speakers, when the speakers are
bi-wirable and their internal passive crossovers are independent (not
tied together within the speaker). The usual explanation you will find
for this (besides the usual-suspect biwiring arguments) is that by
having separate amplifiers separately driving each individual passive
crossover (low-pass and high-pass), the separate crossover loads are no
longer dependently modulating an otherwise sole amplifier output driver.
Whether this reason is true or not, I personally don't know - I have
often wondered what the reason was for the audible difference from this
arrangement.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] What happened to the links?

2008-04-16 Thread funkstar

Someone probably deleted them while cleaning up the server.

Probably shouldn't have gone in a directory called temp in the first
place :)


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] What happened to the links?

2008-04-16 Thread wireless200

funkstar;291940 Wrote: 
 Someone probably deleted them while cleaning up the server.
 
 [...]


Well, considering one of Sean's best arguments is, to paraphrase, yes
DACs and other components have subjective and unmeasurable factors to
their sound but of the things that are measurable, the TP DAC beats
Benchmark's, and others, then these gifs were very important screen
shots illustrating his proposition.  One (noise floor) basically swayed
me over from the Benchmark to buy the TP.

regards, David


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread wireless200

seanadams;291893 Wrote: 
 That's wrong - below radio frequencies, you want a low source impedance
 and a high load impedance. 100R into 10K is a good (and typical)
 arrangement for audio.

Obviously, the theorem is not wrong
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_theorem 
but I'll take your word on the desired relative impedances being the
best.  Why is this and from there how do you reconcile a speaker's
typical impdendance with a typical SS amp's output impedance (high back
to low)?

regards, David


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread opaqueice

pfarrell;291888 Wrote: 
 
 OK, I'm missing something here.
 
 You remove the jumper on the speaker between the woofer and tweeter, 
 bypassing the internal crossover in the speaker. Where is the
 (passive) 
 crossover???
 

Inside the speaker case, naturally.

We're talking about speakers with two sets of binding posts.  Those
usually come with removable jumpers shorting the high/low posts. 
Internally, there's typically a high pass filter between the tweeters
and the high posts, and a low pass filter between the woofer and the
woofer posts.  The only connection between the two sections comes from
the external jumpers.  So you can remove the external jumpers and
bi-amp in a way that's perfectly safe for the drivers.  

seanadams;291892 Wrote: 
 If the IS a passive crossover at all... otherwise it'll cook. If you're
 multi-amping then I don't think that's a given. Indeed, I'd prefer to
 ONLY use active (line level, low current) crossovers in that scenario.

It's early and I haven't had my coffee, but I'm not seeing at the
moment how there could NOT be a high-pass filter between the tweeter
binding posts and the tweeter in a bi-wireable speaker - is that
possible?  The only problem I can see is if the posts are internally
shorted (in which case the external jumpers would just be for show). 
Then bi-amping might make the amplifier(s) unhappy, although the
drivers should still be fine.

In any case, anyone trying this should make certain to read the
documentation that came with their speakers and follow the
manufacturer's recommendation.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread opaqueice

wireless200;291953 Wrote: 
 Obviously, the theorem is not wrong
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maximum_power_theorem 

I think Sean was probably referring to the doesn't bode well part of
your post when he said it was wrong.  Read the second paragraph of the
wiki article you linked to and you'll see why.

 Why is this and from there how do you reconcile a speaker's typical
 impdendance with a typical SS amp's output impedance (high back to
 low)?
 

Reconcile what?  In both cases the source impedance is much lower than
the load, as it should be.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread bigfool1956

I have four Alecto monoblocks driving my speakers, two per speaker.
Adding the second pair of amps was a significant upgrade in terms of
bass control and depth. It also made an (admittedly lesser) improvement
to the treble, removing a layer of grain.

When using stereo amps, it is normal to use one amp for the two bass
sections of the speakers, and one for the two treble sections
(horizontal). HOWEVER, although many people don't try this, it is
actually better to use one stereo amp for the left speaker, and the
other one for the right speaker.

This way the power supply is only dealing with a single speaker's worth
of bass delivery, and any crosstalk is kept within the same speaker. 

Of course, if you decide to go the bi-amping route, then it is trivial
to try out both arrangements.

On the question of whether bi-amping is an improvement, per se. That is
a somewhat different issue. I found that when I had the opportunity to
use a single pair of Bryston 600W monoblocks (the 7B's if I remember
correctly), then I found them to be a considerable improvement over the
two pairs of Alectos.

In other words, bi-amping is not a universal panacea. It can be a cost
effective way of upgrading an existing system, if you simply double up
on you existing power amp(s).

I would dearly love to compare lower powered bi-amped Brystons with a
single pair of the 7Bs.

Active speakers, where each individual frequency range in a speaker is
driven with a different amp, and where the crossover frequencies are
controlled electronically prior to the power amps are a very different
kettle of fish. 

Just to be clear, although many people view active speakers as
containing the crossover electronics, and amps within the enclosure,
widespread use of this topology is quite recent. The term active
speakers also applies to the topology that has the crossover and all
the amps in your equipment rack, with multiple speaker cables running
to each speaker. This is not what is referred to in common audio
parlance as bi-amping (sorry Pat).


-- 
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David Ayers
Music is what counts, hifi just helps us enjoy it more

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread Patrick Dixon

You are in danger of confusing the OP IMO:

Bi-amping is using a pair of amps to drive a conventional passive
loudspeaker.  Using a (line level) crossover before the amplifiers, is
generally known as 'active' and is a quite different approach.

Bi-amping usually works because the passive loudspeaker has two sets of
binding posts, which allow the crossover to be split into HF and LF
parts.  Each part of the crossover is then driven by a separate
amplifier.  The HF and LF parts of the speaker's crossover may further
split the signal to multiple speaker drive units.

At the very least, bi-amping allows each amplifier to 'see' a reduced
crossover/drive unit load, and doubles the potential power into the
speaker.  You can argue whether it's better to use two amps of 'n'
watts bi-amped or a single amp of '2n' watts, but bi-amping can
definitely make a big difference to the sound - depending on the actual
components used of course.


-- 
Patrick Dixon

www.at-tunes.co.uk

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Burning amp in with dummy load

2008-04-16 Thread agentsmith

ModelCitizen;291744 Wrote: 
 I'm perplexed why you asked this here. The Naim forums seem the obvious
 place to ask.
 
 MC

Actually I cheated, I asked in both forums.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Burning amp in with dummy load

2008-04-16 Thread agentsmith

iPhone;291742 Wrote: 
 All joking aside, at least the wife lets you enjoy your hobby and even
 allows the buying of new stuff. Most of us can#8217;t have everything,
 so at least having a better half that allows us to enjoy our hobby is
 more then half the battle. 
 
 After all these years my better half finally understands the difference
 between a boom box and good stereo understanding why something that just
 produces sound is not the same as a system attempting to produce music
 as it was actually recorded. I think over time good music reproduction
 grows on everybody and they begin to realize a boom box for what it is,
 a substitute of convenience or last resort!

Actually it was quite a battle with my wife to be able to bring these
babies home.  My wife still does not understand the differences between
a clock radio and a good system.  But then again I bought the Meridian
F80 last month  I went nuts in buying new gears in the past few
months, now the wife would probably kill me if I bring another black
box home.


-- 
agentsmith

System 1: SB2 and a mostly Naim system
System 2: SB2 connected digitally to a Meridian F80

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread bigfool1956

Yes, of course - a dual mono design is effectively the same as my set up
using monoblocks.

Another thing about vertical bi-amping is that it does give you the
opportunity to site the amps near the speakers, and run long
interconnects if you so wish.


-- 
bigfool1956

David Ayers
Music is what counts, hifi just helps us enjoy it more

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread opaqueice

wireless200;292026 Wrote: 
 
 TP (100 ohms) into Amp (10k ohms) vs Amp output (~4 ohms) into speakers
 (~4 ohms).  In one case the impedance is not matched in the other it is.
 I assume this is because the speaker is a physical transducer and you'd
 need maximum power transfer but again I'd like to hear a designer's
 perspective.

Eh?  What kind of SS amp has an ouput impedance of 4 ohms?  Mostly
they're well under .1 ohms (usually expressed in terms of the damping
factor).

An amplifier with an output impedance close to the impedance of the
speaker it's connected to will audibly distort.

 Yes, this is a whole 'nother matter - LC effects.  Not really wanting to
 get into that at this time for my purposes.
 

It's -not- another matter - it's one of the main reasons you need the
output impedance much less than the input impedance.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread bigfool1956

Take the highly regarded Brystons as an example. Their pre-amps have an
output impedence of 110 ohms, and their power amps an input impedence
of 50k ohms. 100 ohms or so is pretty much a standard value for
pre-amps, and matches the output of the TP.

Therefore this is a technical non-issue in your case. I hope that puts
your mind at rest.


-- 
bigfool1956

David Ayers
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread Phil Leigh

I would agree with most of the posts. I have speakers that are designed
to be run in a bewildering variety of consigurations that I won't list
here, simply by changing the orientation of the connection panel on the
back. I run mine active (x-overs are optional plugin modules inside the
stereo power amps).

One of the many options is to run the mid+treble as  vertical bi-amp
and run the bass as a horizontal bi-amp. This addresses the crosstalk
benefit but not the mono bass needs more power problem.
In my old active system, the manufacturer reccomendation was to run
left bass+right mid from one amp and right bass and left mid from
another, with the treble from the third amp...(imagine the wiring
nightmare that was! - especially with non standard XLR cabling).


If I was tri-amping (not active)  would run mid+bass vertical and
treble horizontal. YMMV.

For me personally I find active is a significant leap in quality from
bi/tri-amping as the passive crossover is gone, gone, gone...and so is
the small waste of electricity that is dumping power for no reason
because of the insertion loss. Active seems to give much better control
at the bass end in particular and has an overall grip on the
rhythmic/dynamic aspects of the music that I find lacking in many
non-active setups. Also of course it is much easier to design whatever
x-over slopes you want to make the drivers+cabinet sound good when
working at line level...


That's not to say that active is a panacea of course.


-- 
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...SB3+Stontronics PSU - Altmann
JISCO/UPCI - TACT RCS 2.2X with Good Vibrations S/W - MF X-DAC
V3/X-PSU/X-10 buffer (Audiocomm full mods)- Linn 5103 - Linn Aktiv 5.1
system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Townsend
Supertweeters, Kimber  Chord cables

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread cliveb

wireless200;292047 Wrote: 
 The Mcintosh mc402 gives 2, 4, and 8 terminals as output load
 impedance.
Yes: that's the required LOAD impedance, ie. the input impedance of the
device you're driving (the speakers). The output impedance of the
amplifier itself (the SOURCE impedance) will be significantly smaller -
as opaqueice says, probably less than 0.1 ohms.

wireless200;292047 Wrote: 
 Again as stated earlier I think it's to generate maximum voltage across
 the input.  But if that were absolutely the case then speakers
 impedances should be as high as possible.  The physical machinations
 required of a woofer or tweeter must account for this difference.
High impedances mean that less current gets passed, which of course
means lower power. Speakers need to have a fairly low impedance so that
sufficient current will pass that you'll get a usable loudness. And in
turn, this means the output impedance of the amp must be extremely low.


-- 
cliveb

Transporter - ATC SCM100A

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread iPhone

wireless200;292026 Wrote: 
 Well I think NewBuyer had it right: you want maximum voltage across the
 target but I wanted to hear Sean's explanation.
 
 
 I want to use the TP as a pre-amp and avoid buying a separate pre-amp. 
 That's why I'm asking these questions.  Although it's good information I
 don't really want to hear other's are doing it... I like to know what
 the pros and cons are from a technical perspective.  An MC402 by itself
 is pricey and if I've got to buy a pre-amp too then I've got to take
 that into account for my budget.
 
 regards, David

Hello David,

You asked a question and for advice. Sean answered it (the designer of
SB). Then you turn around and disagree with him with some lame
wikipedia link. Wikipedia is a large general information source. It is
not the exact or absolute answer to a very specific question you posed.


From source to driver device we are not looking for maximum power out
(power as in watts), we are looking for maximum efficiency as in signal
voltage gain transfer without causing distortion of the audio signal.
The wikipedia was describing in general terms maximum power transfer of
power in watts to an output device. As in an RF amplifier to an antenna
load where impedance mismatch causes output power to be lost in the
form of heat.

As for the outputs on the Transporter, they are well-designed line
level outputs. The unbalanced RCAs have 2Vrms output and the Balanced
have 3Vrms (8.5Vpp). Any amplifier with a properly designed input gain
stage and 29dB of overall gain is going to be loud enough for most
people not to need a pre-amp. More to the point is trying the
Transporter alone, if it is not loud enough for your taste, buy or use
a pre-amp. A good dealer would most likely let you try this at the
shop. If the TP alone does not get loud enough for you, then there is
always the Mac I-Amp Model MC6900.

Last but not least, what are you trying to drive that needs 400 watts
per channel? Most people never use more then the first 25 watts of
their amplifier unless they have very inefficient speakers. The Mac
MC252 has 250 watts and plenty of dynamic headroom.

Yes I have 300 watts per channel. My room is fairly large and my
speakers are not the most efficient, but having said that, I would
never be able to use more then 2/3 of the power. Turning the pre-amp
gain past Two O’clock would cause permanent hearing loss. I would have
bought 200 watt mono blocks, but Charles only makes 300 watt mono
blocks.


-- 
iPhone

iPhone

Last.FM http://www.lastfm.com/user/mePhone

Media Room:
Transporter, Vandersteen Quatro Signature, Ayre MX-R Mono Blocks, VTL
TL-6.5 Signature Pre-Amp, VCC-5 Reference Center Channel, four VSM-1
Signatures, Runco 710, RAM Oppo DV970HD, VeraStarr 6.4SE  

Living Room:
SqueezeBox Duet, Vandersteen Model 3A Signature, Two 2Wq subs, VCC-2,
Two VSM-1, ADCOM GTP-870HD, Cinepro 3K6SE III Gold 

Bedroom:
Squeezebox 3, Thiel 2.3, NAD C370

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread wireless200

opaqueice;292032 Wrote: 
 Eh?  What kind of SS amp has an ouput impedance of 4 ohms?  Mostly
 they're well under .1 ohms (usually expressed in terms of the damping
 factor).
 
 An amplifier with an output impedance close to the impedance of the
 speaker it's connected to will audibly distort.
 
 It's -not- another matter - it's one of the main reasons you need the
 output impedance much less than the input impedance.

The Mcintosh mc402 gives 2, 4, and 8 terminals as output load
impedance.   Musical Fidelity Kw550 specs a 50 ohm output load loop
impedance.  

Of course LC effects will distort the waveform (or even eliminate it at
certain frequencies due to filtering effects).  I guessing if there were
no LC effects, then there would still be valid reasons for the
relatively different impedance values between source and target.  

Again as stated earlier I think it's to generate maximum voltage across
the input.  But if that were absolutely the case then speakers
impedances should be as high as possible.  The physical machinations
required of a woofer or tweeter must account for this difference.


-- 
wireless200

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread bigfool1956

Don't try and compare line level situations with speaker load
situations, as there is more to take into account in the case of
speakers.

In the line level situation, which you asked about initially, the
connection is made using voltage bridging (AKA impedence bridging).
Maximum power transfer is not required, and this configuration is more
resistant to noise.

In the case of a power amp to speaker connection, you need to be able
to a number of things. You need to be able to generate a serious amount
of power to move the speakers, and you need to be able to control these
mechanical devices, particularly around the area of their mechanical
resonance.

For these reasons, speakers have a relatively low impedance, to enable
good power delivery, but the power amp will, as opaquiece states,
typically have an output impedance of around 0.1 ohms.

While the lower output impedance does not optimise the power transfer,
it does increase the damping factor. The higher the damping factor, the
better controlled the speaker will be. Thus there is a trade off between
power delivery and control.

Also, you misunderstand the labelling of the output terminals on the
MacIntosh. When they say 2, 4, or 8 ohm output load impedence, they are
talking about the nominal impedance of the speakers, and not the the
output impedance of the amplifier itself.


-- 
bigfool1956

David Ayers
Music is what counts, hifi just helps us enjoy it more

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread Ben Diss

I'd recommend that you get the amp/speakers you want and hook up the TP
directly to the amp and give it a listen.  If you don't like what you
hear, then add a pre-amp.  I wouldn't budget for one right out of the
box.

Having said that, I ended up using one because I like the way it
sounds.  I'm using an SB3+Dac and adding a preamp brought the lower
frequencies to life.  I also like the tube sound in my preamp.  You may
not experience any of this with your equipment combo, so I think it
makes sense to give it a listen and go from there.

-Ben


-- 
Ben Diss

'SB3' (http://www.slimdevices.com/pi_squeezebox.html) - 'Lavry DA10'
(http://www.lavryengineering.com/productspage_da_10.html) - 'BAT
VK-31SE' (http://www.balanced.com/products/line/Vk-31SE/index.html) -
'Halo A21' (http://www.parasound.com/halo/a21.php) - 'BW 803D'
(http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/display.aspx?infid=1156)

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread opaqueice

Phil Leigh;292052 Wrote: 
 
 For me personally I find active is a significant leap in quality from
 bi/tri-amping as the passive crossover is gone, gone, gone...and so is
 the small waste of electricity that is dumping power for no reason
 because of the insertion loss. Active seems to give much better control
 at the bass end in particular and has an overall grip on the
 rhythmic/dynamic aspects of the music that I find lacking in many
 non-active setups.

The bass in my (active, quad-amped) system is the best I've ever heard.

I think it has more to do with the dipole radiation pattern than
anything else, but it would be very difficult (if not impossible) to
design a passive crossover that can compensate for the dipole rolloff,
so they go together.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] audio insanity

2008-04-16 Thread gharris999

Hey.  Nice rugs!


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread Phil Leigh

David - power transfer is irrelevant in the context of audio (generally
speaking). It is very important in power stations and radio
transmitters.
Amplifiers and pre-amps have active devices in them - transistors and
valves - that amplify the voltages. Power transfer is only relevant
where we are trying to minimise losses in passive circuits like power
lines etc.

In line-level audio, we care about voltages rather than power. Optimum
voltage transfer occurs with low source and high sink impedance so that
the sink does not load the source. 

For speaker to power amp matching (and this differs slightly between
valve amps with output transformers and tranny amps) the issue is that
the PSU can only deliver so many volts (say 40) before it distorts. So,
the output transistors vary the voltage between 0-40 volts (max). The
speaker impedance is say a fixed 8 ohms (lets ignore reactance here)
and the output impedance is usually lower - say 2 ohms. The output
transistors do the work of varying the voltage to deliver the requisite
power to the speakers. This is the opposite to mains wiring or
antennas where we want to lose as little power as possible along the
line - there are no amplifiers to compensate for the power loss along
the way.



The downside (if you can call it that) of having a low internal or
output impedance of an amp is that more power is lost as heat within
the output devices...that's why amps get hot. 

As an example, if your power amp can swing 40V from its PSU rails, has
an impedance of 2 ohms and is running into an 8 ohm speaker, the max
voltage the amp could deliver to the speaker would be:
40*(8/8+2) = 32 volts
The power the amp could deliver into the speaker would be
(39.5*39.5)/8=128 watts
and
the power lost inside the amp by heating up the heatsinks would be
(32*32)/2=
512 watts of heat

That's roughly 25% efficiency. This is for a Class A amp with full
power delivery at all times (not class B!!!)


If the impedance of the amp was 8 ohms:

volts to speaker= 40*(8/(8+8)) = 20v
power to speaker = (20*20)/8 = 50 watts
power lost to heat = (20*20)/8 = 50 watts

That's 50% efficiency...but the amp can only deliver 40% of the power
of the other example. Given that the maximum volt swing from the PSU is
a fixed thing and the speaker impedance is a fixed thing, the amp
designer only has one choice...if he wants to deliver more power, he
has to sacrifice overall efficiency and lower the impedance of the
amp...


I hope I haven't confused things?

...dons flame-proof suit, waits for attack by real electronics
engineers :o)


-- 
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...SB3+Stontronics PSU - Altmann
JISCO/UPCI - TACT RCS 2.2X with Good Vibrations S/W - MF X-DAC
V3/X-PSU/X-10 buffer (Audiocomm full mods)- Linn 5103 - Linn Aktiv 5.1
system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Townsend
Supertweeters, Kimber  Chord cables

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread SadieKate

Okey-dokey, I better get out two bottles of Vitamin I.  My eyes are
crossed.  Thank you to opaqueice for providing pictures - even in
color!  

I had already found the Rod Elliot article and immediately knew I
needed the Cliff Note version.

Carry-on.  I have plenty of friends who will enjoy the thread and
translate for me.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread wireless200

Thanks Phil and others I think I've got a better understanding of what's
going on there.

Actually I understand the Wiki article just fine.  I derived the
theorem in 2nd year EE and have an MSEE.  It's covered in every
Circuits 101 class.  Actually I think opaq is a little confused about
what it says because the reason the theorem doesn't apply for my
question wasn't due to the parts about power transfer or efficiency. 
Of course thankfully others stepped up with very good clear-headed
explanations as to what was going on.

Thanks to Phil and others for that.  There were some very good replies.
As far as needing 400 watts.  I have inefficient speakers.  Aerial 7Bs
(rated 86 dB but measured less in Stereophile).  They drop to 4 ohms in
the bass region.  I thought about getting an MC252 but the MC402 was
reommended for my speakers.  But probably either one would work. 
Follow the old adage for cars - get the biggest engine you can in the
model you want to buy.  :)

I've owned a 400 watt Krell and a 300 watt Musical Fidelity with these
speakers and, yeah, they could get loud but I don't think they were
overkill by any means.  Also of course it has to do with delivering
peak power when it's needed.  Certainly the Aerials swallow the 100
watt Marantz I have hooked up to them now.  It'll get loud too but you
can tell they need something with more power or ability to deliver
power when needed.

Also nothing meant against Sean by quoting that link. No need for me to
go and re-explain the theorem when a link would do.  I was looking for a
little more explanation and others nicely stepped up.

regards, David


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread wireless200

opaqueice;292064 Wrote: 
 Actually the wikipedia article is fine - he just needed to read (and
 understand) past the first two sentences.  Maybe that was too much to
 expect.

Actually understanding the article - standard fare in any circuits 101
class - isn't the issue.  The article doesn't say anything about what
is best for audio quality does it.

Obviously there's more to it than power transfer and efficiency.  I
think that's where you're getting confused.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread Shredder

Wireless, not sure you need all that power for the Aerials. FWIW, I have
Aerial Model 9s-pretty similar to the 7bs except with more bass. When I
first got them, I powered them with a 150 watt Classe intergrated.
Sounded teriffic. However, I had been told by numerous sources that the
9s would only really sing with more power. I then purchased 2 350 Classe
monos off of Audiogon. Not a great purchase. The bass may be a little
punchier, but all in all not a significant improvement.

I have heard the Aerials w/Mac gear and that is definitely a good
match.

Perhaps relevant to your original question, I run my TP directly into
my power. Without attenuators, my amps had way way too much gain. Added
Endler stepped attenuators and am now happy as a clam.

Good luck.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread opaqueice

wireless200;292136 Wrote: 
  I think that's where you're getting confused.

Confused about what?


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread wireless200

Shredder;292146 Wrote: 
 [...]Perhaps relevant to your original question, I run my TP directly
 into my power. Without attenuators, my amps had way way too much gain.
 Added Endler stepped attenuators and am now happy as a clam.
 
 Good luck.

Shred, why didn't you adjust the jumpers inside the TP?  Do you not
want to open it up?
regards, David


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread darrenyeats

I've come to understand that less 'rated power' can -in principle-
confer an advantage.

Every active component has a dynamic range and that includes power
amps. This means a lower rated amp -can- have an advantage conferred to
it against a bigger amp whose dynamic range stays mostly unused even at
maximum usable volume.

I am talking about comparing differently powered models of the same amp
design e.g. FPB200 vs FPB600. (Clearly, amps of different basic design
have different current delivery into hard or complex loads and better
load handling is in principle a good thing, but that's an aside to my
point.)

So bigger isn't automatically better. It depends!
Darren


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SB3 / Inguz - Krell KAV-300i (pre bypass) - PMC AB-1
Dell laptop - JVC UX-C30 mini system

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread opaqueice

Actually, I -am- confused about Phil's post.

Phil Leigh;292086 Wrote: 
 
 As an example, if your power amp can swing 40V from its PSU rails, has
 an impedance of 2 ohms and is running into an 8 ohm speaker, the max
 voltage the amp could deliver to the speaker would be:
 40*(8/8+2) = 32 volts
 The power the amp could deliver into the speaker would be (32*32)/8=128
 watts
 and
 the power lost inside the amp by heating up the heatsinks would be
 (32*32)/2=
 512 watts of heat
 
 That's roughly 25% efficiency. This is for a Class A amp with full
 power delivery at all times (not class B!!!)
 

In your examples you treated the amp as a voltage source and the output
impedance as if it were in -parallel- with the load.  But (regardless of
the class) I thought output impedance is defined as the part of the
internal resistance that's in -series- with the load (again, treating
the amp is a voltage source, as you did).

If that's right, an amp with an output impedance of 2 ohms driving an 8
ohm speaker will only lose (40-32)*(40-32)/2 = 32 watts of power, not
512, and the efficiency goes to 1 as the output impedance goes to
zero.

The reason class A amps have low efficiency is because they have an
output transistor which dumps current to ground even when the signal is
zero.

Right?


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Duet + DAC versus Transporter

2008-04-16 Thread NoFlyZone

iPhone;291745 Wrote: 
 If you can spring for a few more hundred dollars a Duet or SB3 would
 sound great with a Bel Canto e.One DAC3 D/A processor. I really enjoy
 my Transporter, but if I were going to get a DAC for the Duet or SB3
 and could afford a Transporter, I would get the Bel Canto e.One DAC3.
 To noticeably out perform that combo, I think you would have to spend
 two to three times as much on a better DAC.

I have a slightly modded SB3 with the Welbourne Power supply. I'm also
thinking of the Transporter but with the Modwright truth mods. I've
been on the fence trying to decide between an outboard DAC such as
Audio Notes 2.1 kit or another high quality DAC. Not being able to
audition such devices IN MY SYSTEM it makes shopping for such upgrades
an exercise in reading user opinions and gleaning information from
there. Our system sounds very good with the Nuforce 9SEV2's but I feel
now the limiting factor is the native SB3 DAC (1748KE). The sound just
has a certain hardness and grain going strightly through the SB3. 

So to take the Modwright Transporter route or outboard DAC is the
question. Perhaps the Duett to outboard DAC is more favorable than the
Modwright transporter? 

I plugged my old Audio Research LS15 into the mix thinking this would
be magic. It sucked.. Where to go?

Hey, it's just a hobby ;-)


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Duet + DAC versus Transporter

2008-04-16 Thread tomjtx

NoFlyZone;292168 Wrote: 
 I have a slightly modded SB3 with the Welbourne Power supply. I'm also
 thinking of the Transporter but with the Modwright truth mods. I've
 been on the fence trying to decide between an outboard DAC such as
 Audio Notes 2.1 kit or another high quality DAC. Not being able to
 audition such devices IN MY SYSTEM it makes shopping for such upgrades
 an exercise in reading user opinions and gleaning information from
 there. Our system sounds very good with the Nuforce 9SEV2's but I feel
 now the limiting factor is the native SB3 DAC (1748KE). The sound just
 has a certain hardness and grain going strightly through the SB3. 
 
 So to take the Modwright Transporter route or outboard DAC is the
 question. Perhaps the Duett to outboard DAC is more favorable than the
 Modwright transporter? 
 
 I plugged my old Audio Research LS15 into the mix thinking this would
 be magic. It sucked.. Where to go?
 
 Hey, it's just a hobby ;-)

Have you heard a stock TP?

It would make sense to hear that 1st , wouldn't it?


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread Phil Leigh

opaqueice;292163 Wrote: 
 Actually, I -am- confused about Phil's post.
 
 
 
 In your examples you treated the amp as a voltage source and the output
 impedance as if it were in -parallel- with the load.  But (regardless of
 the class) I thought output impedance is defined as the part of the
 internal resistance that's in -series- with the load (again, treating
 the amp is a voltage source, as you did).
 
 If that's right, an amp with an output impedance of 2 ohms driving an 8
 ohm speaker will only lose (40-32)*(40-32)/2 = 32 watts of power, not
 512, and the efficiency goes to 1 as the output impedance goes to
 zero.
 
 The reason class A amps have low efficiency is because they have an
 output transistor which dumps current to ground even when the signal is
 zero.
 
 Right?

erm...

surely the speaker is wired in parallel across the amp output? - thats
why if you wire 2 identical speakers in parallel to an amp their
impedance halves and the power delivery doubles...at least until the
amp psu gives up!

when the internal impedance of an amp hits zero that's a short circuit
and the amp blows up!
My example was VERY simplistic.
AFAIK the amp is a voltage source in most cases. That's what the
transistors do - they they act as a tap for the PSU voltage.
I'm happy to be wrong...


-- 
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You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...SB3+Stontronics PSU - Altmann
JISCO/UPCI - TACT RCS 2.2X with Good Vibrations S/W - MF X-DAC
V3/X-PSU/X-10 buffer (Audiocomm full mods)- Linn 5103 - Linn Aktiv 5.1
system (6x LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Townsend
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread NewBuyer

I always thought that Musical Fidelity does a good job explaining the
benefit of reserve power in their amps - they focus on dynamic range
and performance with musical transients, rather than a sustained db
level performance. 
'_Here_is_one_such_explanation_from_them_'
(http://www.musicalfidelity.com/products/supercharger/dynamicrange.html),
and from there, also be sure to click on their System Diagnostic link
to see an interesting interactive graphic...


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread seanadams

O is correct - when we speak of the impedance of a source, we are
talking about what is effectively a series resistance in the source.
For a power amp driving speakers, you want it as low as possible. See
diagrams here: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/imped.htm. Also, highly
recommend reading: The Art Of Electronics.

But getting back to the subject of line-level audio, there's an example
here if we suppose we're using  passive attenuators, i.e. a resistor
divider. Let's say you have a typical 100 ohm source and you want to
divide its output voltage level in half. One way to do this would be to
put a resistor divider on the output, say two 500 ohm resistors (for a
load of 1K). Now you have an output with a higher impedance because the
source is not as stiff, it's going through this high resistance that
you've added in order to create the voltage divider. However, it's not
exactly half, because the divider itself is also acting like a load,
pulling down on the source's 100 ohm impedance. The voltage division is
effectively as if you have a 600 ohm resistor and a 500 ohm resistor.
But also, the new output after the divider has a higher Z because the
load is being driven through that additional resistance of the divider.

Alternatively, since there is some impedance in the load, you could
just hang a single resistor to ground on the output, and this will
create a voltage divider in conjunction with the source's 100 ohm
impedance. But now the source is working much harder because it has to
drive that relatively low impedance, not just the amplifier's high Z of
10K ohm. This will significantly increase the distortion level of an
op-amp output.

If you've followed all this so far it should make sense why you'd want
a low source Z and a very high load Z for a line level signal. You're
not trying to transmit gobs of power as with a speaker output, nor are
you trying to deal with reflections as with a high-frequency signal.
Instead, you are just trying to get signal information (a voltage
level) from A to B as accurately as possible (low noise, low
distortion). This is best achieved by a stiff or strong (ie low Z)
source feeding a high Z load. The reason line-level sources have a
100ohm impedance instead of close to 0 is to provide some short-circuit
protection for the output. And in Transporter, this impedance is in fact
provided by a series resistor.

By contrast, for speakers, you are trying not just to move information,
but to actually get work done, and for that to happen your load must
have a fairly low impedance: a few ohms, instead of many Kilo-ohms.
Otherwise, the voltage required to make the load do anything would be
ridiculously high. Also, now that you're dealing with significant power
transfer, you want a source impedance as close to zero as possible,
because otherwise a bunch of energy is being wasted in the source.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] The ultimate minimalistic highend system ?

2008-04-16 Thread totoro

opaqueice;286439 Wrote: 
 I had mixed impressions too.  I wasn't impressed with the midrange,
 although on some recordings it was adequate.  As for the bass, I
 thought it was too much: I have some recordings of solo bowed acoustic
 bass where the bassist suddenly plays a sustained, very low note.  On
 the beolabs it sounded clear and defined, but with the volume set to
 realistic levels in the higher registers the bass note made the whole
 room shake - totally unrealistic.  But perhaps there's an adjustment
 for bass level which they had simply set too high.  
 
 
 
 SB3-Benchmark DAC1-Linkwitz Orion sounds wonderful :-).

Hmmm---

I'd been hoping to read a review from you of your system. I'm sure it
sounds pretty wonderful, but I don't know if the outboard xovers and 
big amp required make it a minimalist system :).


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] output inpedance of the TP

2008-04-16 Thread seanadams

As to why impedance _matching_ (in the proper sense of the term) of amps
and speakers is usually NOT desirable: basically the reason is that the
efficiency is very poor.

Let's suppose you have a power amplifier with an output Z of 0.1 ohms,
and you want to get maximal power out of it. It might seem that this
would deliver the most power into a 0.1 ohm speaker... and you could
make a 0.1 ohm speaker by tying a bunch of regular speakers in
parallel. The problem is that for this to work, the amp would need to
be able to deliver enormous quantities of current at a very low
voltage, and it's not feasible to design one that could do that. 

Conversely, let's say you have a 8 ohm speaker. For a given source
voltage, maximal power would be delivered to the speaker when the
output also has a 8 ohm internal impedance, but the problem is that
under that condition you are burning an equal amount of power in the
source: a lot of work is getting done by the load, but the system as a
whole is only 50% efficient. In practice you are better off designing
for efficiency, and upping the voltage.

At first it is not really obvious why it works like that, but if you
imagine the two extremes of the situation it makes more sense. If you
put a short circuit (using a very large wire) across a battery, the
battery will heat up but the wire will not. No work has been done
outside the battery, so the system is 0% efficient. Now consider an
infinitesimally tiny load attached to the battery. Efficiency is now
100% - the battery will not get hot because it isn't strained, but not
much work is being done either, because the load is insignificant. It
should be more intuitive now that the maximal power transfer would
happen when the load is being driven as hard as the source can push,
but this is not the same thing as maximal _efficiency_. Since solid
state amps naturally have a very low Z, it does not make sense to put
an additional resistance at the source - that would just waste power in
the amp. Instead we enjoy higher efficiency by using a 4 to 8 ohm load,
and use higher voltages to reach the output power levels desired.

So that is why if an amplifier says it has 4 ohm outputs what they're
really saying is this output can make voltage and current levels
suitable to power a 4-ohm load, not this output has a 4ohm
impedance.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] The ultimate minimalistic highend system ?

2008-04-16 Thread pski

What's the consensus on Dynaudio around here?

They're making a PC 2.1 system with all speakers individually
powered. About US $2000.

It's minimalistic. Add an outboard DAC if that's too cheap.

p


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Bi- and vertical-amping

2008-04-16 Thread pski

bigfool1956;291994 Wrote: 
 I have four Alecto monoblocks driving my speakers, two per speaker.
 Adding the second pair of amps was a significant upgrade in terms of
 bass control and depth. It also made an (admittedly lesser) improvement
 to the treble, removing a layer of grain.
 
 When using stereo amps, it is normal to use one amp for the two bass
 sections of the speakers, and one for the two treble sections
 (horizontal). HOWEVER, although many people don't try this, it is
 actually better to use one stereo amp for the left speaker, and the
 other one for the right speaker.
 
 This way the power supply is only dealing with a single speaker's worth
 of bass delivery, and any crosstalk is kept within the same speaker. 
 
 Of course, if you decide to go the bi-amping route, then it is trivial
 to try out both arrangements.
 
 On the question of whether bi-amping is an improvement, per se. That is
 a somewhat different issue. I found that when I had the opportunity to
 use a single pair of Bryston 600W monoblocks (the 7B's if I remember
 correctly), then I found them to be a considerable improvement over the
 two pairs of Alectos.
 
 In other words, bi-amping is not a universal panacea. It can be a cost
 effective way of upgrading an existing system, if you simply double up
 on you existing power amp(s).
 
 I would dearly love to compare lower powered bi-amped Brystons with a
 single pair of the 7Bs.
 
 Active speakers, where each individual frequency range in a speaker is
 driven with a different amp, and where the crossover frequencies are
 controlled electronically prior to the power amps are a very different
 kettle of fish. 
 
 Just to be clear, although many people view active speakers as
 containing the crossover electronics, and amps within the enclosure,
 widespread use of this topology is quite recent. The term active
 speakers also applies to the topology that has the crossover and all
 the amps in your equipment rack, with multiple speaker cables running
 to each speaker. This is not what is referred to in common audio
 parlance as bi-amping (sorry Pat).

This is malarky. Again physics is the issue. The benefit of bi-amping
is derived from the fact that each amplifier has a fixed range to
reproduce. The net effect is a result of Ohm's law. Unlike evolution,
this is not a theory. 

If you are using a single amp on each channel, you will experience
benefits only because your amp was not capable of running two channels
simultaneously.

Active speakers are a different issue entirely.

Another whole point of bi-amping is the ELIMINATION of passive
crossovers.

Any input Mr. Farrell?


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] audio insanity

2008-04-16 Thread tyler_durden

What a waste.

TD


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] audio insanity

2008-04-16 Thread swhite58

W.A.F. = 0

If he has one :)


-- 
swhite58

Clark Connect Linux file server-Various boxes with flashing
lights-SB3-Zhaolu D3 DAC-NAD C320BEE-Polk Monitor 4.5/Sennheiser
headphones

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