Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Nu Force amp and pre amp on the way

2009-05-27 Thread Schindler

The cool thing about the Sander amp is he offers a 30 day trial at users
home, free of charge. So there is no risk to try them. For the Nuforce
amps I am not aware of such an offer and here in Switzerland I don't
know any dealer who have them.

So I ordered a Sanders amp. Looking forward to try them...

Christian


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Anybody have experience with passive preamps?

2009-05-27 Thread duke43j

2) the hiss reduces with new valves then quite rapidly comes back (2
months?)
Yes


3) the output impedance of the 2.5 is 200 ohms, the input impedance of
VTL's own power amps is 100k
Yes


4) hissing noise is not due to impedance problems IME - and according
to the specs you shouldn't have a problem anyway if everything is
working properly
I don't know how to explain why it's OK in his system, but not in
mine.


5) I suspect that you have a faulty resistor or capacitor in the
pre-amp - or possibly a fault in the valve heater circuits. New valves
cause a change in bias conditions but over time the underlying fault
causes the new valves to deteriorate. I've seen this in valve guitar
pre-amps.
The problem is in both channels. It is unlikely the same fault would be
in both channels.


6) It is possible a fault is damaging the valves - do you have an old
set? - swap them out with the current set and see if the old ones
immediately hiss.
Not sure I understand you here. New tubes are OK for a while. Old ones
hiss.


7) How does the hissing change with the volume and mute controls on the
pre-amp? is the hissing identical on left and right channels?
Volume control has no effect, so the noise is coming from after the
volume control. Mute kills the noise. Both channels are identical.


8) You commented that the top end sounds rolled-off... but the specs
say the preamp goes to 60kHz -3dB... that seems odd.
I'm dubious of specs written like that. Three dB down from 20 to 20 KHz
is not very good for a preamp. I really don't care what the unit does
above 20 KHz. Besides, the tonality is not a problem. It is just not as
extended as the DAC = amp configuration. I suspect it was designed that
way to give the unit a warmer sound. 


I'm hesitant to send the unit back to VTL because:
a) I suspect they would say I just need new tubes
b) While it was being repaired, the amp  speakers would be connected
to the TV (I am outvoted on this). I wouldn't be able to listen to
music. I'd have withdrawal symptoms. DTs, etc. 

Based on what you say, I believe I will contact VTL to see what they
say. Thanks for the suggestions. I rather hope it is broken. It would
save me the expense of upgrading.


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Which headphones?

2009-05-27 Thread BlueScreenJunky

ok thanx a lot =)
I'll just get an official replacement cable for my 600s I guess, I
don't really believe in cables improving sound quality and the
aftermarket ones I saw were ridiculously expensive.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Why Reclock If Using Low Jitter DAC

2009-05-27 Thread timequest

duke43j;426889 Wrote: 
 I've been doing some reading on this in my search for an external DAC
 for my own system. I believe that older DAC designs were very
 susceptible to jitter, and reclockers had a useful function in reducing
 the jitter before it reached the DAC. The more modern DAC designs that
 contain asynchronous rate converters are much more tolerant of jitter.
 That being the case, I believe a reclocker won't give you much of an
 improvement when used with a modern DAC. (I expect a loud chorus of
 replies with that remark.) Also, the older DACs were based on a
 resistive ladder approach which had linearity problems. The newer
 designs are based on a delta-sigma scheme and are much more linear. I
 would suggest you try a modern DAC such as the Benchmark or Cambridge
 Audio and see how it sounds. I think you will be quite pleased with the
 performance without an external reclocker. You could always add a
 reclocker later, but I don't think you'll find it necessary.

I tend to agree, however I continue to read about SB users utilizing
the Pace-Car re-clocker in conjunction with very high quality modern
external DACs.  Why would this be necessary unless the external DAC
isn’t effective at reducing the jitter it is being fed?  Obviously
marketing comes into play…but who’s marketing – the re-clocker’s, or the
DAC manufacturer’s?  I realize too, that there is some real science at
“play” here.  According to the designer, my external DAC is measured at
less than 1ps jitter (0.005% @ 10 kHz; 0.0038 @14 kHz; 0.002% @20 kHz);
but what do these low numbers really mean?  Does this mean that the DAC
is reducing the jitter from the transport down to these very low specs? 
If so, I can’t see the need for a re-clocking device (unless 0.005%
jitter is audible).  However, there appears to be some science (and
marketing) behind the concept that a re-clocker can significantly
improve jitter in devices like the SB3/Duet – even when these devices
are used in conjunction with external DACs.  Can someone help me
understand this…maybe sort through the science/marketing?


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Why Reclock If Using Low Jitter DAC

2009-05-27 Thread darrenyeats

timequest;427061 Wrote: 
 I tend to agree, however I continue to read about SB users utilizing the
 Pace-Car re-clocker in conjunction with very high quality modern
 external DACs.  Why would this be necessary unless the external DAC
 isn’t effective at reducing the jitter it is being fed?  Obviously
 marketing comes into play…but who’s marketing – the re-clocker’s, or the
 DAC manufacturer’s?  I realize too, that there is some real science at
 “play” here.  According to the designer, my external DAC is measured at
 less than 1ps jitter (0.005% @ 10 kHz; 0.0038 @14 kHz; 0.002% @20 kHz);
 but what do these low numbers really mean?  Does this mean that the DAC
 is reducing the jitter from the transport down to these very low specs? 
 If so, I can’t see the need for a re-clocking device (unless 0.005%
 jitter is audible).  However, there appears to be some science (and
 marketing) behind the concept that a re-clocker can significantly
 improve jitter in devices like the SB3/Duet – even when these devices
 are used in conjunction with external DACs.  Can someone help me
 understand this…maybe sort through the science/marketing?
If we take the Benchmark as an example they publish specs showing that
output distortion doesn't change as input jitter is increased. The
take-home point is that the measurements (whatever you think of them)
don't change when the input jitter changes.

http://www.benchmarkmedia.com/system1/files/documents/DAC1.pdf

Either they are printing drivel or you don't need a re-clocker. There
doesn't appear to be a middle ground. I don't have a Benchmark and I've
no plans to buy one so I've no point to prove. I'm just saying. :)
Darren


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(Inguz bass EQ'd) SB3 - (pre bypassed) Krell KAV-300i - PMC AB-1
(caps bass EQ'd) Laptop - Genius Slab SW-flat2.1 700
SB3 / Rio Karma / Laptop - JVC UX-C30 / Sennheiser PX-100

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Why Reclock If Using Low Jitter DAC

2009-05-27 Thread darrenyeats

I ought to add, if you're worried about jitter, or worried that you
should be worried, you can always just use the SB3 or TP standalone.
That avoids the brain-dead S/PDIF interface without needing any clever
and apparently controversial jitter-killing electronics. Less boxes too!
;)
Darren


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(Inguz bass EQ'd) SB3 - (pre bypassed) Krell KAV-300i - PMC AB-1
(caps bass EQ'd) Laptop - Genius Slab SW-flat2.1 700
SB3 / Rio Karma / Laptop - JVC UX-C30 / Sennheiser PX-100

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Why Reclock If Using Low Jitter DAC

2009-05-27 Thread Phil Leigh

darrenyeats;427088 Wrote: 
 I ought to add, if you're worried about jitter, or worried that you
 should be worried, you can always just use the SB3 or TP standalone.
 That avoids the brain-dead S/PDIF interface without needing any clever
 and apparently controversial jitter-killing electronics. Less boxes too!
 ;)
 Darren

All true - but unfortunately there is still jitter in the SB3 DAC (much
less in the TP however...). I don't have the SB3 specs to hand but they
are merely good - not stellar like the TP's.

SPDIF is not the only source of jitter. Power supplies are also
involved...


-- 
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...
SB3 (wired) - TACT 2.2X (Linear PSU) + Good Vibrations S/W - MF
Triplethreat(Audiocom full mods) - Linn 5103 - Aktiv 5.1 system (6x
LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Townsend Supertweeters, Blue
Jeans Digital,Kimber Speaker  Chord Interconnect cables
Outdoors: Boom

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Why Reclock If Using Low Jitter DAC

2009-05-27 Thread timequest

darrenyeats;427085 Wrote: 
 If we take the Benchmark as an example they publish specs showing that
 output distortion doesn't change as input jitter is increased. The
 take-home point is that the measurements (whatever you think of them)
 don't change when the input jitter changes.
 
 http://www.benchmarkmedia.com/system1/files/documents/DAC1.pdf
 
 Either they are printing drivel or you don't need a re-clocker. There
 doesn't appear to be a middle ground. I don't have a Benchmark and I've
 no plans to buy one so I've no point to prove. I'm just saying. :)
 Darren



This is what I want to believe, that the jitter issue is resolved by
using a good DAC with low jitter measurements.  If this was simply the
case however, then why would the minimum length of the digital cable
necessarily be a factor; if the DAC would “correct” any jitter issues,
why even worry about what’s upstream from the DAC?  Discussions
regarding the importance of minimizing jitter in the digital cable
(i.e.: lengths of 1.5 meters or more), or by re-clocking the signal
before the DAC, leads me to believe there is more to the issue of
reducing jitter than simply incorporating a “low-jitter” DAC.  I would
like to have a better understanding…


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Anybody have experience with passive preamps?

2009-05-27 Thread iPhone

duke43j;426822 Wrote: 
 Shortly after I bought the VTL I took it back to the dealer to try it in
 his system. The noise wasn't nearly as pronounced through his McIntosh
 amp and BW 800 speakers. I had to put my ear right up to the speaker
 before I heard any noise. From that demo I concluded that my preamp
 wasn't broken, but my system was somehow more sensitive to the noise
 (possibly a low input impedance of his amp vs. my 100 KOhm amp??). In
 looking for another preamp I've been shying away from tubes because of
 the noise problem I'm currently having. 
 Going to a dedicated stereo system is not practical in my house. But I
 like the idea of trying an upgraded VTL preamp. It would tell me if I
 need to just get a better quality tube preamp, or move to solid state.
 From the comments you've given me it sounds like passive preamps are not
 for me. You mentioned the Ayre preamps. Can you describe their tonality
 (i.e. compared with your VTL or with other solid state preamps)? The
 Ayre K-xr is out of my league, but the K-5xe has a surround bypass and
 is within my price range.

It really sounds like something is wrong with the pre-amp. How long ago
did you check it at the dealer? An amplifier can deal with under or over
voltage better then a pre-amp, do you know for sure that you have proper
voltage and current at the outlet you are using? The VTL is a quality
tube pre-amp and should work with just about any amp/speaker combination
out there. Which is why I feel its something in your home or the pre-amp
itself. Also do we know if the amp is OK? Did you take your pre-amp and
AMP back to the dealer and listen to them on a pair of the dealers
speakers. Can you isolate the pre-amp on another phase or with an
isolation transformer to rule out any ground loops? Not being onsite
seeing and hearing it, I am trying to think of anything it might be.
Phil also raises some points that need to be verified/eliminated.

Onto the Ayre K-5xe, it is an excellent SS pre-amp. It is very nature
or neutral as in like its almost not even there in the system. Ayre
sounds great with Thiel or Vandersteen speakers.  Now the KX-R is the
true meaning of a SS pre-amp that doesn't add, color, subtract, or do
anything to the signal, the music just lives. I am seriously thinking
about ordering one but have my eye on the new Vandersteen Model 7s. So
if the K-5xe is in your price range that would be an option and have no
concerns about buying a used one.

But again, I think it at least pays to have the VTL checked/serviced
and verify that the amp is not part of the problem.


-- 
iPhone

*iPhone*   
Media Room:
Transporter, VTL TL-6.5 Signature Pre-Amp, Ayre MX-R Mono's,
Vandersteen Quatro, VeraStarr 6.4SE 6-channel Amp, VCC-5 Reference
Center, four VSM-1 Signatures, Runco RS 900 CineWide AutoScope 2.35:1  


Living Room:
Duet, ADCOM GTP-870HD, Cinepro 3K6SE III Gold, Vandersteen Model 3A
Signature, Two 2Wq subs, VCC-2, Two VSM-1  

Kitchen: Squeezebox BOOM
Bedroom: SB3, GFR-700HD, Thiel 2.3, Second Boom
Home Office: SB3, NAD C370, two VSM-1
Home Gym: SB3, Parasound Vamp v.3, Thiel PowerPoint 1.2
House Portable: SB3, Audioengine A5
Thunderbird: Duet, Mac Mini
Expedition: SB3, ToughBook

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Why Reclock If Using Low Jitter DAC

2009-05-27 Thread Phil Leigh

timequest;427138 Wrote: 
 This is what I want to believe, that the jitter issue is resolved by
 using a good DAC with low jitter measurements.  If this was simply the
 case however, then why would the minimum length of the digital cable
 necessarily be a factor; if the DAC would “correct” any jitter issues,
 why even worry about what’s upstream from the DAC?  Discussions
 regarding the importance of minimizing jitter in the digital cable
 (i.e.: lengths of 1.5 meters or more), or by re-clocking the signal
 before the DAC, leads me to believe there is more to the issue of
 reducing jitter than simply incorporating a “low-jitter” DAC.  I would
 like to have a better understanding…


These are two different issues...the 1.5m cable is NOT to do with
jitter, it's to do with reflections on the transdmission line...


-- 
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...
SB3 (wired) - TACT 2.2X (Linear PSU) + Good Vibrations S/W - MF
Triplethreat(Audiocom full mods) - Linn 5103 - Aktiv 5.1 system (6x
LK140's, ESPEK/TRIKAN/KATAN/SEIZMIK 10.5), Townsend Supertweeters, Blue
Jeans Digital,Kimber Speaker  Chord Interconnect cables
Outdoors: Boom

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Why Reclock If Using Low Jitter DAC

2009-05-27 Thread silverlight

Happy to toss in my 2 cents.  I'm no audio engineer, but I'm a music
lover, trained musician across quite a few instruments, and have
played/orchestrated/arranged and listened to live music in a variety of
venue types (which I recognize in an audiophile community is very common
of course!  I'm always humbled reading these forums!).  What I can say
is that to my ears (and a few others who have heard it) and in my
particular audio setup the PaceCar2 reclocker has had a surprisingly
positive impact.  I've had it for almost 2 weeks as has been breaking in
nicely.  I use the Transporter, feed the PaceCar, SPDIF to a Meridian
568.2 (which I recognize isn't as good as today's 2 ch DACs of
equivalent price or even lower as it's a few years old now, but very
musical and impressive for a multi-channel processor when paired with
quality cabling/power/etc.).  I have it set up to do A/B comparisons
between (1) Transporter's analog output (using it's internal DAC), (2)
T's digital coax output using Meridian's DAC, and (3) Toslink out to
PaceCar to Meridian.  Frankly the comparison is almost silly to the
point that it's a tad depressing switching back to (1) or (2). 
Listening to 24/96 music is truly a treat with this system.

I don't have any personal experience with the Benchmark DAC or some of
the top DAC's in the market today to know if the relative impact on
performance would be the same or not, so just giving you all one data
point.


-- 
silverlight

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