Re: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass
I have used a talking compass, a braille compass, as well as a Trekker/maestro. The talking compass was accurate as long as the battery was charged and the temperature outside was relatively warm. The braille compass I liked better because no matter what the temperature was outside, it was accurate. The Braille compass was accurate and never let me down, untill...one night I was coon hunting and got the unit soaked. Even now after it has dried out it is completely unreliable. The Trekker is relatively new to me and I haven't had an oppertunity to use it in all weather conditions so won't comment on it at this time. I am not sure what the name of either the talking compass or the braille compass was. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: BlindHandyMan Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 4:13 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Reliable Compass Hi all, I realize this topic has been discussed before and I did look in the archives before sending this message but found the number of messages on the topic to be a bit daunting. I'd simply like to know if anyone is using a Braille compass that works reliably for them. I tried the Columbus Talking Digital Compass and I found it to be absolutely worthless. In a majority of the times I tried to use the compass it gave me readings that were completely wrong. I returned it yesterday. I've seen advertisements for a couple of Braille compasses but I'd like to know if they're any better than the talking compasses before I go through all the trouble of ordering one only to return it a few days later. Any advice on a reliable Braille compass will be greatly appreciated. Take care, Ed Przybylek [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] show room shine
I use Astro Shield. - Original Message - From: Carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 9:53 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] show room shine when washing the truk any tips on getting that show room shine? i'm in the north east of the UK you can contackt me on skype carlf16 and joine my list for unabridged audiobooks send a blank email to ub_ab_bookspace+subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray
A few years ago I read in the Outdoor Life magazine that mixing a feminine douche double strength will take care of the skunk odor. Can't prove it by me...I stay away from such cridders! - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 11:34 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray Here is the best spray I located. It was, quick to get rid of the smell. The only problem is it may or may not fade cloth. It does a good job of animals, cement and clothes. 1 16 ounce bottle Peroxide 1 small box of baking soda 2 tablespoons of liquid soap. (lemon if you have it) 1 gallon of water. Mix and use immediately. do not cap or save. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: bhm Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 7:06 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray What is the best way to clean up a skunk spray and can clothing be cleaned? I just got a call from my daughter her husband got sprayed this morning taking out the trash. The skunk was along side of his porch, this is in the middle of town. Anyway he changed his clothes but had to go to work with his new fragrance. He works in a factory that has a very strict point system. If you are late, call off you get some points and ten points in a year you are fired. Anyway my daughter is very upset with the odor in her home. --- Please visit my home page, it is motivational, educational, inspirational with a touch of humor. There is also a very extensive resource list for the blind. http://www.LennyMcHugh.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray
Both Dan...May the wind always be at your back..Unlike the rooster on my cupalo which always faces into the wind.. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 8:36 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray On Mon, 30 Aug 2010, NLG wrote: A few years ago I read in the Outdoor Life magazine that mixing a feminine douche double strength will take care of the skunk odor. Can't prove it by me...I stay away from such cridders! Which critters, skunks or feminine hygiene products? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
No, I have copper connected directly into the water heater/tank and no, I am not returning the heated water from the furnace back through the pop valve. I installed a T at the tank and the return line connects into the T. The pop valve on the tank is functional as well as the other pop valve I installed at the highest point in the run. As far as to how long a water heater will last depends on the water being heated. I am on well water and so are others here in my neighborhood. We get 5 to 6 years use from our water heaters/tanks before they spring a leak and need to be replaced. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 12:18 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? if i understand correct, you want to connect the PEX from the copper directly to your water heater? if this is the case, that is a big no no. PEX, or any plastic pipe is not to be used for direct connection to water heaters. They actually make flexible water heater lines that are about 2 foot long. they are 3/4 female on both ends. this is for the inlet and outlet. You should get 10 years or more out of a water heater. the last one I replaced was about 25 years old. And please don't tell me you are returning the water in through the pressure relief valve, without some way of relieving pressure. I don't even want to think of the mess if the thermostat broke, and the coils kept heating the water. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:19 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
I don't have any filters, softeners, or anything else on my system. My water is as clear as a bell but is on the acidic side. My basement ceiling is low and there is no way I could change the anode without disconnecting the tank, draining it and tipping it on its side to have enough clearence to replace the anode rod. s - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 12:03 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? Sounds like an interesting concept. Never heard of it before, but around here with electric rates averaging $0.07 to $0.08 per KW, conserving electricity isn't a big deal. You must have some bad water. i know people on wells that are on 30 years on their water heater, they have only replaced the elements, and have no filtration system. Soften water can shorten the life of a water heater to. have you tried replacing the anode every year or two have you thought of having the return end of the pump connect with your furthest hot water supply? this would give you almost instant hot water, because it would keep hot water in your hot water supply lines. Insulate the pipes good, and should be a good energy saver, and a water saver. You won't be waiting several seconds or longer for hot water to reach your faucets. Then you only have the one connection to your water heater to worry about when you replace it. have fun. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 10:02 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? No, I have copper connected directly into the water heater/tank and no, I am not returning the heated water from the furnace back through the pop valve. I installed a T at the tank and the return line connects into the T. The pop valve on the tank is functional as well as the other pop valve I installed at the highest point in the run. As far as to how long a water heater will last depends on the water being heated. I am on well water and so are others here in my neighborhood. We get 5 to 6 years use from our water heaters/tanks before they spring a leak and need to be replaced. - Original Message - From: Michael baldwin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 12:18 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? if i understand correct, you want to connect the PEX from the copper directly to your water heater? if this is the case, that is a big no no. PEX, or any plastic pipe is not to be used for direct connection to water heaters. They actually make flexible water heater lines that are about 2 foot long. they are 3/4 female on both ends. this is for the inlet and outlet. You should get 10 years or more out of a water heater. the last one I replaced was about 25 years old. And please don't tell me you are returning the water in through the pressure relief valve, without some way of relieving pressure. I don't even want to think of the mess if the thermostat broke, and the coils kept heating the water. Michael _ From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:19 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace
Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
Thanks for the info. I am going to plumb it in using the PEX and if I have any problems I can always replace the PEX with copper.As far as temperature is concerned, , last year I took the temperature of my hot water several times a day. 6:00 in the morning after no use from 10:00 the previous evening(of course the fire was banked for the night), again around noon, again after supper, then once more before bed, and my hot water temperature never got above 152 degrees F. I monitored the temperature for a month or more, so don't see any problems with exceeding the 180 degree temperature. Thanks to all for your tips and advice. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 3:57 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? There seems to be some variance in the recommended bend for PEX. I have looked up several references, most commonly recommended radius is 8 times the outside diameter of the tube and this applies to the inside radius. A couple mentioned 6 times the outside diameter and one stated 10 times. 3/4ths inch pex then should bend around 4 inches inside radius. This is of course in the direction of the coiled tubing. The radius against the coiled direction is considerably more. All of the references I saw which mentioned temperature seem to agree on 180 degrees F. Dale leavens. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 10:09 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? Thanks for the reply. Not sure where I got the impression that PEX 3/4 inch could be coiled into a loup of 7 inches...Like I said, I never worked with PEX before and with new technology coming out every day, maybe they have a braded PEX or some product that can be? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? PEX is flexible but only to an arc of maybe 3 feet diameter. In your situation you might consider a loop or an arc allowing you the extra length when/if you need it. With a hundred feet though you should be able to replace it when that occasion arises. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] PEX?
I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
Thanks for the reply. Not sure where I got the impression that PEX 3/4 inch could be coiled into a loup of 7 inches...Like I said, I never worked with PEX before and with new technology coming out every day, maybe they have a braded PEX or some product that can be? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? PEX is flexible but only to an arc of maybe 3 feet diameter. In your situation you might consider a loop or an arc allowing you the extra length when/if you need it. With a hundred feet though you should be able to replace it when that occasion arises. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX? I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24 inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4 inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric bill considerably. This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always, the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool, copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as even soft copper of the same size. All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the integrity of the PEX tubing? Thanks :) However, [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] minor freezer problem
On mine, the drain is on the right side. Check to make sure the drain is not obstructed. If it is not, check the setting of the temperature inside the freezer. It could be that the setting is to low. Or it could also be that the defrost element is not working. Hope this gives you some ideas. - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 11:15 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] minor freezer problem I have a upright freezer that's about 3 to 4 years old, it's suppose to be a frost free freezer. Ever since we move here last December, I am accumulating ice build up on the inside bottom. I cleaned the build up off a couple of weeks ago and yesterday I open the door and tried to pull the bottom heavy wire drawer out and found it was froze in place. So I had to pull a little harder to free it. This is on the inside bottom right side only. Any suggestions as to what's going on? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question
That part is called a needle valve. Hope this helps. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 11, 2010 9:43 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tacumseh engine carbeurator question Good evening, I have a wood chipper and leaf shredder powered by a horizontal four stroke Tecumseh engine. The damn engine has given me a lot of grief over the years, trouble starting after periods of inactivity. Oddly, this year it has behaved fairly well. Then it began leaking fuel around the top of the sediment bowl. The problem appears to be the little pin like valve arrangement which should close off the fuel flow when the float raises and pushes the little beggar into the orifice. Well I disassembled it, there is a little spring clip which I was trying to figure out where it connects when I lost the little pin like valve closer in the grass. I need to know what this little bad boy is called so I can see if I can chase down a new one. It is a 6 or 8 sided pin about half an inch long I suppose beveled to a point at one end and with a ring milled out very near the other end where this little spring wire clip snaps onto it. It sits on top of the float so, when the float is up it pushes firmly into the fuel port from the fuel tank. Those of you with mechanical training may know what this little device is called. Thanks for this. Dale leavens. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Ambutek graphite canes?
I have a graphite Ambutech folding white cane and it appears to have aluminum where the parts of the cane fit together. This aluminum doesn't run the full length of the cane. If it did the cane would be heavier and mine weighs a lot less than an all aluminum ambutech folding cane. The only thing I don't like about mine is; if you crack it, which I did, you can get some hellish carbon fiber slivers in your hands when unfolding it. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 8:33 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ambutek graphite canes? I have just received two of what are supposed to be Ambutek graphite folding canes. I have never met such equipment before now and hope someone on the list knows more about them than I. These appear to me to be metallic although the outer coating might well be something like graphite. The insertion points are very certainly metal, probably aluminum. Is this correct or did someone put the wrong equipment in the parcel? Thanks. If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gas Stove Question?
Could be that your son noticed the difference because the front burner is a different size than the back burner. You can varify this by feeling the caps that sit on top of the burner. The higher BTU burner has a larger diameter cap(usually made of castiron) . - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 5:18 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gas Stove Question? Okay, I know I haven't posted in a while, but here is my question. What can I do if the flame on two of my gas burners does not appear to be the same, even when adjusted to the same setting on both burners? We were making pancakes this morning, and of course, we had to place the grittle over two burners. The flame was higher over one of the burners, than it was on the other. What might account for this, and how can we fix it, if it's even repareable? I wouldn't have noticed this because I don't usually use burners simultaneously, in that fashion, so it took us some time to figure out. Our sighted son was the one that noticed one of the flames was higher, than the other. Claudia [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty?
Did you buy this heater new? Has it been burning dirty since new? If so, I too think you should check the orifice. Could be that the orifice installed is for natural gas which is largerthan that used for propane. If so, this could cause the soot and smell you describe. - Original Message - From: RJ To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 2:55 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty? If not, check the jet that regulate the gas flow.. There is a name for this opening, but just can't remember how to spell it. For there are more than two letters. smile - Original Message - From: John Sherrer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 11:42 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty? If the unit is still under warranty then return it for another unit. John http://WhiteCane.org http://BlindWoodWorker.com http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane http://anellos.ws - Original Message - From: Jerry Richer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 7:37 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Why does my Propane heater burn so dirty? Sorry, I forgot to mention that very important point. This Propane heating stove is not vented to the outside. It's one of those advertised as so clean burning that it can be safely used indoors without venting to the outside. Jerry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] bluebird house question
Lenny, If you have a saw mill over there in Pottsville, see if you can get some slabs. A hell of a lot cheaper than plywood and should be rough enough on the non bark side. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 5:09 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] bluebird house question Doing more research, I learned that the front inside board should be rough so the young birds can climb up. It was also stated that exterior grade plywood is a good product to use. Since I am probably going to purchase enough for 20 boxes I most likely will use the plywood. Now what is the best way to rough up the inside of the front panel? I have a wood rasp or I could purchase a few washers to use with my stacked dado cutter and make a bunch of grooves across the boards. Any other ideas? --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] microwave oven with real push buttons
Hi Lenny, For those who may be interested in a talking microwave, blind mice mart has the following on sale. 20 in 10! New Year Special Free Shipping and Save an additional 10% off the Mice Price On the Magic Chef 1.0 Cubic Foot Talking Microwave! Enter the Coupon Code mo2010 at check out to receive the 10% discount! Talking Magic Chef Microwave 1 CF Suggested Retail $369.00 Shipping Charge $40.00 10% 20 in 10 Discount: $34.40 Your Mice Price With 10% Discount: $309.60 and Free Shipping*! You save almost $100.00! Hurry, this offer ends Friday, January 8th, 2010! Enter the Coupon Code mo2010 at check out to receive the 10% discount! Mice have Lay Away available for this item! Contact Dale Campbell at Blind Mice Mart or read more about Lay Away following the Microwave! More about this fantastic microwave! Sometimes you deserve to have the best... Talking Magic Chef 1.0 Cubic Foot Microwave: This 1 cubic foot 1000 watt Magic Chef M/O is modified so functions speak in a male voice for the blind. Enhanced buttons, timer feature, adjustable power levels, and more. White Only 20 inches W x 12 inches H x 15 3/8 inches D. Allow 3 weeks for shipment *Free Shipping to U.S. Mainland addresses only. UPS Ground Service. Microwave Features: * 1000 Watts maximum cooking power *. 1.0 Cubic foot oven space. * Clear male voice with adjustable volume level in 8 steps. * Adjustable cook time from 1 second up to 99 minutes. * Adjustable power level, 4 power level settings: Hi, Medium, Low and Defrost. * Built in kitchen timer, adjustable from 1 second up to 24 hours 59 minutes. *AM/PM clock, * Attend to food timer. This feature permits you to stop the oven every so often, within the cook time, to stir or reposition your food. Adjustable up to 59 minutes, 59 seconds. * Enhanced Keypad: each button of the keypad is a raised ring to make them easy to locate by touch. A momentary press of any button will tell you what the button does. * Removable glass turntable. This talking microwave was designed with the visually impaired in mind. Around Included: * . Audio instruction cassette tape. * Written instructions on how to use the talking portion of the oven. . * Original operating Instructions for the oven before it was modified. White only Until midnight, Friday, January 8th, 2010 you can save over $99.00! Suggested Retail Price: $369.00 Mice Price $344.00 10% Discount: $34.40 Your New year's 20 in 10 Sale Price: $309.60! Enter the Coupon Code mo2010 at check out to receive the 10% discount! Here is the link to order yours today! Remember, it takes about 3 to 4 weeks to ship... each microwave is modified to order Don't Delay, Use this link and Order Yours Today! http://www.blindmicemart.com/product.asp?dept_id=7005pfid=TMO2 This special ends Friday, January 8th, 2010 * Enter the Coupon Code mo2010 at check out to receive the 10% discount! Happy New Year! Have a MICE Day! Shop BlindMiceMart.com On-line-It's safe and secure! www.BlindMiceMart.com Order by Phone: (713) 893 7277 Order by Skype: Skype Address: BlindMiceMart E-mail a message to the Mice! sa...@blindmicemart.com Blind Mice Mart accepts major credit cards, PayPal, money orders, and your check! Have you visited the Blind Mice Movie Vault yet? The Mice have over 1,200 DVS audible Movies waiting for you! The downloads are Free! Use the following link and get yourself one or two now! http://www.blindmicemart.com/assets/product_images/movies2.html Every purchase at Blind Mice Mart benefits the Mouse Hole Scholarship Program! The Mice have given away over $13,000.00 in scholarships thanks to your support! Get all the info on the Mouse Hole Scholarship Program at Blind Mice Mart! Blind Mice Mart Members receive special sale notices and special sale prices throughout the year! Join Blind Mice Mart today and become a part of the Mice Mart! You Won't Lose Your Tail at Blind Mice Mart! Membership is Free! Prices and charges are subject to change without notice. All prices are exclusive of applicable shipping charges and Texas sales taxes unless otherwise noted. * Free Shipping Specials are shipped via Ground in the U.S. Mainland unless otherwise noted. We ship to U.S. addresses only unless otherwise noted. Contact us with questions about shipping to other locations. sa...@blindmicemart.com Make sure you don't miss out on any news from Blind Mice Mart! Add our e-mail address to your address book now! sa...@blindmicemart.com Your Satisfaction is important to us at Blind Mice Mart! If you are not satisfied with a purchase, contact our owner, Dale Campbell, directly: Phone: 713 893 7277 Blind Mice Mart 16810 Pinemoor Way Houston TX 77058 -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://blindtreasures.com/pipermail/blindattic_blindtreasures.com/attachments/20100104/62e897e0/attachment.html ___ Blindattic mailing list blindat...@blindtreasures.com
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Condensation on Storm Door?
Your condensation on your front storm door is most likely caused by warm air inside your home leaking around your inner door, coming in contact with the colder storm door and forming the condensation Check your inner door's seals to make sure they are forming a tight seal when the door is closed. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, November 27, 2009 4:33 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Condensation on Storm Door? Hi, We have the same storm doors on both the front back entrances, of our home. We've noticed that there is a great deal of condensation, on our front door, and we can't figure out why. The door has a steel frame, with glass panes on top bottom. Everything looks like it's still in place, and yet, we cant figure out why this is happening! All of the seals still seem intact too, but I don't know enough about doors to even begin to guess! Claudia MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net Skype: claudiadr2009 Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question
1 horsepower equils 746 watts so a 2.25 horse motor equils 1678.5 watts. Dividing 1678.5 watts by 120 volts and you get 13.9875 amps. - Original Message - From: David Ferrin To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 7:12 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric motor question We just got a new treadmill that has a 2.25 horse power motor in it. I don't recall the formula for calculating the electrical current usage but I know that there are several on here who do know it off the top. It is on a fairly lightly used circuit but that of course depends on the time of day as outside lights ETC are also on that line. I can change things around here and need to know if I should or not. David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com VIP Conduit Tech Support www.vipconduit.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] 3,000 w generator
Hi Lennie, I bought a kit and installed on my generator that lets me use gasoline or natural gas. When I need to run it here around the house I run it on natural gas. If I need to run it at camp (where there is no natural gas) I operate it on gasoline. I called our friend Alex over there in Pottsville (September 16th, to wish him a happy birthday) and he told me he heats his house with natural gas. I think you would be happier using natural gas verses propane for the simple fact that it is always available, no need to remember to fill the propane tanks. How long that generator would run on a 20 lb tank of propane would depend on the load on the generator. Perhaps if you did a search for the number of BTU's in a gallon of gasoline and compared it to the number of BTU's in a gallon of propane, you could get some idea. I'm sure others on the list might know the answer. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 8:29 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 3,000 w generator I learned that Aldies has a 3,000 watt generator for about $200. I also found on the net that there are conversion kits for generators to run on natural or propane. I wonder how long it would run on a 20lb propane tank. It is a unit that I would hope never to use. I thought about it just for an emergency Because of this I would not want to store liquid fuel. Has anyone converted a unit to run on propane? --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when addressing. Help stop identity theft. Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Oil Tank?
If this is the standard 275 gallon oval shaped tank, two guys can easily carry it out of your basement, provided who ever put it into the basement to begin with, put it in via the basement entrance. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 4:08 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Oil Tank? Hi All, We have an old, empty oil tank sitting in our basement; this thing is huge, and we're told that the only way to remove it is to break it up into pieces and carry it out. What is the safest way of removing this tank? It's either some kind of hard metal or steel construction! Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] precast concrete stairs
I installed a set for my brother in 1983 and like you never had any trouble . I installed these on a concrete footer which is well below the frost line and have had no problems with shifting. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 8:54 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] precast concrete stairs Do any of you have pre cast concrete stairs on your property? we have three sets of these durable concrete stairs. one down that lead up and out of the basement and , two other stair sets that go to the front and side door of this house and they were installed in 1979. the only problem we have had and it is not the stairs falling apart but the front porch stairs have shifted towards the house so I am going to have to find a way to get under that left side and use some sort of fulcrom to lift and shimmy up those stairs . Lee -- The sixties were good to you, weren't they? -- George Carlin . --PG84sNqatZFp6j6W5rlLQpy8vha-0Y9GELrLlIM-- margin-bottom: ä8$üÔ6 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] precast concrete stairs
I don't know where you live but if you have harsh winters, frost can be a problem. Here in Pennsylvania, where I live, I have a smokehouse. The smoke is produced in a piece of 20 inch pipe aproximately 3 foot long. I didn't put a footer for the pipe, just layed it on the ground because I wasn't sure at the time where I really wanted the smokehouse located. (A long story short) the smokehouse has been in the same place since the mid 1960's and every time after a winter, I have to streighten up the smoke barrel when I use the smokehouse because of the frost heaving it. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 11:12 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] precast concrete stairs ah -ha. I bet that is the problem with the front porch as ithe so called foot ing is less than 6 inches thick and it is on the surface to line up with thesidewalk. thanks.Lee On Mon, Sep 07, 2009 at 10:14:00AM -0400, NLG wrote: I installed a set for my brother in 1983 and like you never had any trouble . I installed these on a concrete footer which is well below the frost line and have had no problems with shifting. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 8:54 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] precast concrete stairs Do any of you have pre cast concrete stairs on your property? we have three sets of these durable concrete stairs. one down that lead up and out of the basement and , two other stair sets that go to the front and side door of this house and they were installed in 1979. the only problem we have had and it is not the stairs falling apart but the front porch stairs have shifted towards the house so I am going to have to find a way to get under that left side and use some sort of fulcrom to lift and shimmy up those stairs . Lee -- The sixties were good to you, weren't they? -- George Carlin . --PG84sNqatZFp6j6W5rlLQpy8vha-0Y9GELrLlIM-- margin-bottom: ä8$üÔ6 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- The sixties were good to you, weren't they? -- George Carlin . [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] small engine problem
Crank shaft seal. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 3:46 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] small engine problem A neighbor was just given an older Suzuki quad runner. It has either a 230 or 250 cc engine. There is oil shooting out by the magneto. He now has oil all over the garage floor. Any ideas where the oil is coming from? --- Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.lennymchugh.com Lenny Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon
What exactly is wrong with your siding? If it is just coming apart and there isn't any seperation of the locking channel, it would be easier to get a unzipping tool to loosen the siding, pull the nails, move them up a fraction of an inch, and then rezip the siding. - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Hi Tom, I'm beginning to think you're right. More and more, it's beginning to look like a mechanical solution (screws, pop rivets, etc.) will be a better solution. Any information your technician might provide, though, may still prove helpful. Thanks. Take care, Ed From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Fowle Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:35 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gluing Nylon Ed, That's a huge set of specs, I doubt there is anything. sounds to me like the fix is going to be more trouble than just replacing the siding, but then I'm not there. I'll ask. Tom [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Homemade Remedies for Your Garden
Condy crystals are Potassium permanganate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia This salt, formerly known as permanganate of potash or Condy's crystals is a This crystalline material was known as Condy's crystals or Condy's powder. ... - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:29 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Homemade Remedies for Your Garden Your yeast based spread in England is known as Marmite, in Australia it is similar though I understand not quite the same and is known as Vegemite. There is also a product known as Vegemite in New Zealand, I was recently told by a rather charming New Zealand immigrant that their version is slightly different than the Australian version, Jewel may be able to clarify that further. My Janet is a frequent user of marmite, it is not always available locally but our kids send her jars frequently enough to keep her dependence under control. It is foul smelling and rather disgusting looking stuff and tastes a lot like sucking on an Oxo cube. Don't know what the other stuff is. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Homemade Remedies for Your Garden Aloha Spiro, I have been contemplating your question about the yeast based sandwich spread, and just can't come up with anything. We even checked our mayonaise jar to make sure there was no yeast in it. Such a puzzle, Betsy At 02:54 AM 7/19/2009, you wrote: what are Condy crystals? Also, what is a yeast based sandwich spread? Thanks On Sun, 19 Jul 2009, Lee A. Stone wrote: thanks 4 sharing ray and there is another old standby and even I hate to waste any beer, but you put the cheapest beer yu can find in a little like a baby jar or like a mayo jar top and the slugs will be drunk and maybe deceased by noon the following day. Lee On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 06:36:09AM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote: When insect pests invade your plants you've got to get on to the problem right away. You can use home made remedies where possible because they're generally safer for the environment and more economical. However , Be careful of these solutions around children, as they should not be ingested. Don't store them in soft drink bottles and make sure you keep them out of reach of children. Scale and Mealybugs: Make an oil preparation that suffocates them by mixing four tablespoons of dishwashing liquid into one cup of vegetable oil. Mix one part of that mixture to about twenty parts of water, put it in your sprayer and spray the affected plants. Aphids, Caterpillars and Other Insects: Add two tablespoons of soap flakes to one litre of water and stir thoroughly until completely dissolved (this is quicker in warm water). There is no need to dilute this further, just spray it on as is. Black Spot Fungicide:, Black Spot's a major problem with roses, but this fungicide mixture works miracles. Add three teaspoons of bicarb soda to one litre of water. Don't get carried away with the bicarb soda because if you make it too strong, it'll cause all sorts of problems. Add a few drops of either dishwashing liquid, or fish emulsion to help the solution adhere to the leaf more effectively. Fungicide: Mix one level teaspoon of bicarb soda into one litre of water. Add one litre of skim milk and a pinch of Condy's Crystals which you can get from a produce agent (someone that supplies to horse owners). Shake thoroughly. Grasshopper, Caterpillar and Possum Deterrent: Mix a cup of molasses into one litre of water and spray it over new foliage. Nematodes: Add half a litre of molasses to two litres of water and spread over one and a half square metres of affected garden area. All-round Insecticide: Chop four large onions, two cloves of garlic, and four hot chillies. Mix them together and cover with warm, soapy water and leave it to stand overnight. Strain off that liquid and add it to five litres of water to create an all-round insecticide. Pesticide: Crush a whole bulb of garlic and cover with vegetable oil. After two days, strain off the liquid, add a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid and use one millilitre of concentrate to one litre of water. Herbicide: Add a cup of common salt to a litre of vinegar. After it's dissolved, brush it directly onto weeds. Remember, it's not a selective weed killer. It'll kill anything it touches so be very careful how you use it. Predator Attractor: Predators that prey on pests are great things to have in the garden. Lacewings are particularly desirable because they consume aphids and many
Re: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble
What I would do is get a thin wire and poke it into that center hole. to determine if the screw/rivott is hollow. If it is not hollow, I would rule out it being a pop rivott. If the wire bottoms out, I would suspect it being a screw, in which case I would try fitting different sizes of torx screwdrivers to see if I could get one to fit. I am not sure what kind of screw that is that you describe. I have seen a lot of wierd headed screws. I even have a screwdriver around here that is shaped like an hourglass. Have you tried a flat bladed screwdriver to see if it will fit across the hole into the slots? Good luck. --- Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 9:51 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble torx, that is possible. But isn't there some kind of indication inside that little hole? There is one single screw with a notch at (for example) the 9 O'clock and the 3 O'clock position on it's circumference. What is that kind called? Didn't see anything like that on what I am assuming is rivotting. Thanks, let me know more if you will. On Mon, 13 Jul 2009, NLG wrote: Before you start drilling out double check to make sure they aren't really torx headed screws. If they are torx, it could save you a lot of trouble. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 4:21 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble even if the back side of the rivet is not accessible? I've done rivotting, minor stuff with those soft metal rivots that are stamped. Don't both sides of the rivot have to be held in order for them not to fly into the mechanism? For clarity, taking off the cover to the luver mechanism will open a box in which it is held from weather exposure. So this is to say when I put the cover back on, there are sides that would keep me from supporting the back of the rivot. On Mon, 13 Jul 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: Pop Rivets are installed using a gun. You don't have to install all eight simultaneously. You do them one by one. You insert a rivet into the gun and then push the head of the rivet hrough the holes in the materials you are riveting together. When you've got the rivet in place you squeeze the handles of the gun and that installs the rivet. Nothing to it. Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.comm From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 4:06 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble okay, on the rivots: I would assume that the heads would go in through the inside wall and point outward so I could put the mechanism cover over them. If that's correct, how do I hold 8 of them in place to do that, and then what holds them in placewhen they get popped? Sorry, not being cute; i'm tu\ruly that ignornat. On Mon, 13 Jul 2009, wstep...@everestkc.netmailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net wrote: Spiro: As far as replacement parts go, you might try getting a hold of the manufacturer if they're still in business. Failing that, I've heard, though don't know this personally, that places like restoration hardware stores can sometimes be helpful. As far as rivets go, you might probably can, use pop rivets to replace the ones you drill out, so you'll want to pay attention to how long they are. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.netmailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Spiro sp...@iamspiro.commailto:spiro%40iamspiro.com Date: Monday, July 13, 2009 12:42 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble I have a luver door. It is luvers (sorry, spelling?) from knee to top. I love it. Two summers ago the handle no longer opened and closed the luvers. I can open and close them by hand. I was told there were screws and never found them. I again wanted to see if I could fix this, so yesterday found some screws to remove the handle housing from the door. found the problem. the firsttooth on the action bar, which interacts with the sliders on the luver control frame is stripped away. Without grab on that first tooth, no go, and no progress from there. I checked that the rest of the system is fine by tilting the housing so that the handle gear made contact with the next and progressing
Re: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble
Before you start drilling out rivots double check to make sure they aren't really torx headed screws. If they are torx, it could save you a lot of trouble. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 4:21 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble even if the back side of the rivot is not accessible? I've done rivotting, minor stuff with those soft metal rivots that are stamped. Don't both sides of the rivot have to be held in order for them not to fly into the mechanism? For clarity, taking off the cover to the luver mechanism will open a box in which it is held from weather exposure. So this is to say when I put the cover back on, there are sides that would keep me from supporting the back of the rivot. On Mon, 13 Jul 2009, Darrin Porter wrote: Pop Rivets are installed using a gun. You don't have to install all eight simultaneously. You do them one by one. You insert a rivet into the gun and then push the head of the rivet hrough the holes in the materials you are riveting together. When you've got the rivet in place you squeeze the handles of the gun and that installs the rivet. Nothing to it. Darrin Porter Senior Technical Engineer United Ocean Services, L.L.C. 601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230 Tampa, Florida 33602 (813) 209-4247 (office) (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone) (813) 242-4849 (fax) darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.comm From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spiro Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 4:06 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble okay, on the rivots: I would assume that the heads would go in through the inside wall and point outward so I could put the mechanism cover over them. If that's correct, how do I hold 8 of them in place to do that, and then what holds them in placewhen they get popped? Sorry, not being cute; i'm tu\ruly that ignornat. On Mon, 13 Jul 2009, wstep...@everestkc.netmailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net wrote: Spiro: As far as replacement parts go, you might try getting a hold of the manufacturer if they're still in business. Failing that, I've heard, though don't know this personally, that places like restoration hardware stores can sometimes be helpful. As far as rivets go, you might probably can, use pop rivets to replace the ones you drill out, so you'll want to pay attention to how long they are. Good luck. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: wstep...@everestkc.netmailto:wstephan%40everestkc.net Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Spiro sp...@iamspiro.commailto:spiro%40iamspiro.com Date: Monday, July 13, 2009 12:42 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] door trouble I have a luver door. It is luvers (sorry, spelling?) from knee to top. I love it. Two summers ago the handle no longer opened and closed the luvers. I can open and close them by hand. I was told there were screws and never found them. I again wanted to see if I could fix this, so yesterday found some screws to remove the handle housing from the door. found the problem. the firsttooth on the action bar, which interacts with the sliders on the luver control frame is stripped away. Without grab on that first tooth, no go, and no progress from there. I checked that the rest of the system is fine by tilting the housing so that the handle gear made contact with the next and progressing teeth. But I have the following problems: 1. toothed action ba is rivotted to mechanism bar. 2. cover, or surroung for the luver mechanism is rivotted. I had some sighted assistance to determine that these are not allen heads, no sides verified by a few attempted allen sizes. What are the thoughts of the group? If I were to pop the rivot on the action bar, where would I get a new, proper length, toothed bar? If i needed to get into the rest of the works, how would I replace drilled out rivots? Is that a tap and screw job? $1000 door and instal, and a 19 year longevity. Is it reasonable to just say goodbye? Thoughts? Thanks Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the message and any attachments from your system. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] --5bTJOihLaRp8R7W78-shXcx80mqFG1H6vW0MfIw-- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dropped ceilings
What I do is use a water level to install the wall angles first. Next figure out how long and wide the room is to figure out how long and wide the first (starter ceiling block has to be. You want the ends of the room as well as the width of the room blocks to be as near to the same size as possible. Next your main Tees need to be cut so that your blocks will be the same length on both ends of the room. These main Tees run perpendicular to your joyces. Next, what I do is to run strings across the room from one wall angle to the opposite wall angle. I use dental flauce because it sags less than other string. Now it is time to run the main Tees. Screw in your lag screw making sure it hits your joyst. This lag screw will have a hole in the end of it nearest the floor. Using wire you attach it to the hole in the lag screw and down and through the hole in your main T, then back up through the hole in the lag screw. Using a screwdriver or something similar twist the wire untill the main T is level to the string. After all your main Tees are installed, it is just a matter of snapping the cross Tees into them and laying in your blocks. I also use lag screws and wire at each intersecting cross Tee. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 3:06 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dropped ceilings I believe I know the basic concept of installing a dropped ceiling, but am I correct in thinking that there are wires hanging from the joists, supporting the long rails of the ceiling framework? What kind of spacing do you use and is it incredibly, amazingly, staggeringly frustrating to get them all to the same length? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Water pressure and the well
Check the nipple that goes to the pressure valve for corosion (blockage) and clean or replace it. - Original Message - From: RJ rjf...@verizon.net To: handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 11:59 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Water pressure and the well I been a city person most of my life, until 6 years ago. I can tell you there is a all together set of learning to do, living in the country. Last week I had my son and his family of 4 on a weeks visit. Well last Saturday the pressure went to 0 and the pump wasn't working. I took off the pressure switch cover and had my son throw the tester on the points. There was juice. I than went out and took the black tape off the wires in the well. The tester had a very fine light. Back to the basement. The pump started to run but the pressure wasn't there before the pump shut down agan.Found a valve near the pressure valve about 1/2 hour later and open the valve and tapped the pressure valve. The pump started up again. But shut down. Figured with all the iron in my water, that the pressure valve was plugged after 6 years. Open the valve agan and gently tapped the valve. the pumped kicked on and I let the water run for a while. Now the pump runs, the pressure is back to normal and I am going to purchase another pressure valve just in case. But I will be doing the same thing to the pressure valve as I do to the holding tank and water tank, that will be to flush them out once a month. I did pour some bleach down the well today for my spring clean out. RJ Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Water pressure and the well
Depending on how much iron you have in your water, once a month flushing may suffice. However if you are like me, a lot of times, I have better things to do, than needless things. Here's what I did on my system. I installed a pressure gauge on the larger line before the nipple that goes to the pressure switch. When I replaced the nipple that goes to the pressure switch, I also installed a T on the nipple, just before the switch and installed another pressure gauge there. Now by checking the pressures on both gauges, (which should be equil). I can tell when it is time to clean the nipple. Except for my water being on the hard side, I have no softener or other treatment in the system, and it has been over ten years since I had to replace that nipple. By the way, I replaced the nipple with a brass one. - Original Message - From: RJ rjf...@verizon.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:33 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Water pressure and the well That is what I wound up doing. smile - Original Message - From: NLG nge...@pennswoods.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 16:07 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Water pressure and the well Check the nipple that goes to the pressure valve for corosion (blockage) and clean or replace it. - Original Message - From: RJ rjf...@verizon.net To: handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 11:59 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Water pressure and the well I been a city person most of my life, until 6 years ago. I can tell you there is a all together set of learning to do, living in the country. Last week I had my son and his family of 4 on a weeks visit. Well last Saturday the pressure went to 0 and the pump wasn't working. I took off the pressure switch cover and had my son throw the tester on the points. There was juice. I than went out and took the black tape off the wires in the well. The tester had a very fine light. Back to the basement. The pump started to run but the pressure wasn't there before the pump shut down agan.Found a valve near the pressure valve about 1/2 hour later and open the valve and tapped the pressure valve. The pump started up again. But shut down. Figured with all the iron in my water, that the pressure valve was plugged after 6 years. Open the valve agan and gently tapped the valve. the pumped kicked on and I let the water run for a while. Now the pump runs, the pressure is back to normal and I am going to purchase another pressure valve just in case. But I will be doing the same thing to the pressure valve as I do to the holding tank and water tank, that will be to flush them out once a month. I did pour some bleach down the well today for my spring clean out. RJ Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Interesting grounding issue.
Another option would be to use plastic. I built a shoppe back in 1984. This is a large shoppe 28 feet by 48 feet with both hot and cold watter lines. In the 25 years I have never had a problem with any leaking pipes. Over the years, I have had to replace a couple of hot water tanks though and as you know, they never seem to just hook back up to the existing pipeing without some modifications. In my opinion plastic is a good product and easy to work with. - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 10:35 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Interesting grounding issue. Well there is the standard compression fitting and the Shark bite things. I haven't hadany problems with the compression fittions and recently tried the bite things and they worked well. Maybe I'll use the torech to light the bar b q. Ron - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 5:44 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Interesting grounding issue. Yeah, it would seriously suck if all your efforts resulted in a leak. That is why I also have not attempted to take this on myself. I got a couple of valves I want to replace as well, but I need to get someone in here who can do the job. I still have a goal of trying to learn to sweat pipes. On Jun 10, 2009, at 2:30 PM, Dan Rossi wrote: Lee, I actually have two main shut-off valves inside the house. One of them is right before the meter. It is a big four inch, cast iron wheel. The water line then goes up, then straight down the length of the basement. Someone installed a regular shut-off valve in the middle of that line before it branches anywhere. I want to change that big old cast iron valve with a ball valve, then, remove the shut-off that is in the middle of nowhere. If I had any cohones I would just do the work myself. But, I've never sweated a fitting in my life. I'd like to try, but I don't think Teresa would be as enthusiastic. I'd be pretty nervous myself. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Intro and a question.
Before you crunch the plug or cut the wire off check below the hole that the wire is plugged into and see if there is a small slot. Insert a small bladed screwdriver into the slot, while pulling on the wire. This should release the wire . - Original Message - From: Terry Klarich To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com ; Carlos P. Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2009 9:48 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Intro and a question. One thing I didn't mention. The common and hot might be pushed into holes in the back of the plug rather than attached to the screw terminals. If this is the case, you may or may not be able to pull the wire out. If you can't just cut it off at the plug and restrip the wire. Otherwise, you can get some channel locks and crunch the plug and then get it out. I prefer the channel lock method myself. :) Terry On Sat, 06 Jun 2009 05:02:25 -0400you write: Never done this before but am willing to try. Heading to the hardware store today. Thanks, C. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow
The spelling is schrader. A tire valve is a schrader valve. They are also used on air condition and refridgeration units, as well as some fuel rails. Just ask the Auto Zone guy or gal again for a tire valve stem that has a thread and nut to attach it to the rim instead of the type that is rubber that attaches to the rim by pulling it through the rim. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 05, 2009 8:40 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow Do you know where I can get Shrader fittings? I called Autozone and they didn't know what I was talking about. Thanks, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Arthur Rizzino Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 9:46 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow Valve stem like fittings can be purchased with a pipe thread on them. I believe they are called shrater valves (however it is spelled. If you want to modify the earlier idea you might wish to use a T fitting, 1. male tool connector, 2. fitting for tire gage, 3. some kind of valve to allow the bleeding off of air if you go to high with the air pressure. Art - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 8:50 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow Lenny, that's very clever, I'll have to try that. It's such an obvious solution to the problem, but I just never thought of it. Someone, a few days ago, said Sears has a talking tire gauge on sale this week, so I think I'll check it out and try to hook it up to my compressor. Do you know if there are any fittings available to adapt the tire stem to a pipe thread because I don't have a way to braze something. Do you think it could be soldered like copper pipe is soldered, if so, I could get that done. Thanks, Tom From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 8:26 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow The way I check mine is with a talking tire pressure gage. I had a part made that took the brass tire stem from a truck tire brazed to a 1/4 inch male air fitting. I stick this thing into the compressor and using the talking tire gage I can set the compressor output psi. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy bobswo...@nc.rr.com mailto:bobsworld%40nc.rr.com mailto:bobsworld%40nc.rr.com To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 5:43 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow When I was in the garage business, they kept air pressure at 180 PSI so you're not likely to damage your tools with a home compressor. As for the regulator, I don't know of a way to read it without sight. Since all regulators are not created equal, you'll have to play with yours to see which way increases pressure. Usually on the ones I've used it's counter clockwise. Go to one extreme and plug a tool in. Then go the other way to see the change. I like lots of air pressure so for my car tools I've got the regulator backed all the way out, and I'm not going into how to increase the pressure setting for the shut off switch but I have mine cranked up a little more than stock. Compressor is 9 years old now so it hasn't complained yet. And I got more than my money worth from it. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 10:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] regulating air flow Is there a way for a totally blind person to figure out how to use the air regulator on an air compresser? I know it's a dial you turn, but there is a gage which I assume tells you the air pressure being fed to a tool. So lets say a tool uses 75 to 100 psi. Can you tell when the air pressure is in that range? I'd assume if the tool works, then it's in the correct range. But I wouldn't want to damage the tool by providing too much pressure. Also, which way increases pressure, clockwise or counterclockwise? Thanks for any info. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Black lung
An auto parts store should have a canister type respirator. The kind used for painting cars. If you were closer, I'd lend you mine. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: Blind Handyman List Sent: Friday, June 05, 2009 9:27 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Black lung So, do any of you have a recommendation for a good respirator? One that is comfortable to wear and does a good job? Those paper masks don't do such a great job. Last evening, we got home to find that the mason had done exactly what we asked. He pulled out a window and bricked it up, and bricked up the lower half of the back door. Here is why I like working with this guy. When he repointed the house, he left his scaffolding behind for me to use in putting up the ledger board and joists for the deck, it was very handy. Yesterday, he somehow managed to notch the door jam enough for him to brick up the lower part of the wall, but left the full upper and inner jam in tact, so I can still keep the door on the hinges until I get a window to install, (the door opens in so this is great). And, the upper jams are all intact so I don't have to build out new framing for the window. The window that he removed and bricked still had all the interior framing there, and in order to plaster over it and make it flush with the surrounding wall, I had to rip out the framing. This is a nearly 90 year old house in Pittsburgh. The amount of dust and soot pouring out of one stupid little window area is astounding. I wasn't thinking and didn't have any paper masks around at the time. I feel like I have a chest cold today. You know, without a saws all getting a window frame out is kind of tricky. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
No but I have used a makeshift one that was louder. I pulled the buzzer unit from under the dash of a 80's Chevy truck, hooked up two wires to it and used it as a continuity tester when I couldn't find mine. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 11:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter well, have you ever used a cont tester that was much quieter? Or to ask more directly, ever notice the volume level of others? I don't know what brand Science Products was using. Your statements are perfectly reasonable. Tough to describe, my cont circuit is like a quiet microwave, like the beep of changing bands on the C.Crane C.C.Radio, and I wish I could think of another item that is common. But thanks. Sounds like it would be enough. On Tue, 2 Jun 2009, NLG wrote: Loud to me and loud to you or someone else may be totally different If I were checking continuity and had a radio on, at normal volume and not so loud that the people in the next county could hear it,, I would have no problems hearing it. I also can hear it while my air compressor is running, however if my telephone rings on the other side of the garage while my air compressor is running, I sometimes don't hear it. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 5:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter grrr, means I really have to get one. How loud is the continuity tester? I am currently using a 9 volt beeper from Rat Shack as the cont tester in mine is far too quiet. I like to listen to NPR or Newsweek tapes while working when it's not baseball, hockey or football on the radio. On Tue, 2 Jun 2009, NLG wrote: Yes. Three double A batteries power the unit. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 2:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter do they run on batteries? I have an expensive model from Science Products that is a standard meter with a speak unit affixed and I have to run it on an adaptor. I'm lucky it's not a woodwork item or I'd have cut that cord or broken it by now. On Sun, 31 May 2009, NLG wrote: I have three of them. The first one bit the dust, however, I used it so often that I bought two more, one is in storage just in case they quit making them. The price you quoted is about the same as I paid a year ago. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I also want to know if the price is reasonable. Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA batteries are required. Thanks, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
To clarify...My makeshift tester when used as a continuity tester had a 12 volt battery out of an old smoke detector wired inline on one of the wires hooked to the buzzer. I could also use it as a 12 volt DC tester with the battery removed. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 6:47 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter I've built continuity testers from the stuff available from Radio Shack and when I was in the dealerships, guys would complain because it was so loud. I epoxy the buzzer in a kit box that I pre drilled holes in one side to let the sound out. Some of their buzzers are rather quiet but have them demonstrate them to you and you'll find some loud ones too. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 8:09 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter No but I have used a makeshift one that was louder. I pulled the buzzer unit from under the dash of a 80's Chevy truck, hooked up two wires to it and used it as a continuity tester when I couldn't find mine. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 11:02 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter well, have you ever used a cont tester that was much quieter? Or to ask more directly, ever notice the volume level of others? I don't know what brand Science Products was using. Your statements are perfectly reasonable. Tough to describe, my cont circuit is like a quiet microwave, like the beep of changing bands on the C.Crane C.C.Radio, and I wish I could think of another item that is common. But thanks. Sounds like it would be enough. On Tue, 2 Jun 2009, NLG wrote: Loud to me and loud to you or someone else may be totally different If I were checking continuity and had a radio on, at normal volume and not so loud that the people in the next county could hear it,, I would have no problems hearing it. I also can hear it while my air compressor is running, however if my telephone rings on the other side of the garage while my air compressor is running, I sometimes don't hear it. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 5:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter grrr, means I really have to get one. How loud is the continuity tester? I am currently using a 9 volt beeper from Rat Shack as the cont tester in mine is far too quiet. I like to listen to NPR or Newsweek tapes while working when it's not baseball, hockey or football on the radio. On Tue, 2 Jun 2009, NLG wrote: Yes. Three double A batteries power the unit. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 2:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter do they run on batteries? I have an expensive model from Science Products that is a standard meter with a speak unit affixed and I have to run it on an adaptor. I'm lucky it's not a woodwork item or I'd have cut that cord or broken it by now. On Sun, 31 May 2009, NLG wrote: I have three of them. The first one bit the dust, however, I used it so often that I bought two more, one is in storage just in case they quit making them. The price you quoted is about the same as I paid a year ago. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I also want to know if the price is reasonable. Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA batteries are required. Thanks, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
Yes. Three double A batteries power the unit. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 2:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter do they run on batteries? I have an expensive model from Science Products that is a standard meter with a speak unit affixed and I have to run it on an adaptor. I'm lucky it's not a woodwork item or I'd have cut that cord or broken it by now. On Sun, 31 May 2009, NLG wrote: I have three of them. The first one bit the dust, however, I used it so often that I bought two more, one is in storage just in case they quit making them. The price you quoted is about the same as I paid a year ago. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I also want to know if the price is reasonable. Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA batteries are required. Thanks, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
Loud to me and loud to you or someone else may be totally different If I were checking continuity and had a radio on, at normal volume and not so loud that the people in the next county could hear it,, I would have no problems hearing it. I also can hear it while my air compressor is running, however if my telephone rings on the other side of the garage while my air compressor is running, I sometimes don't hear it. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 5:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter grrr, means I really have to get one. How loud is the continuity tester? I am currently using a 9 volt beeper from Rat Shack as the cont tester in mine is far too quiet. I like to listen to NPR or Newsweek tapes while working when it's not baseball, hockey or football on the radio. On Tue, 2 Jun 2009, NLG wrote: Yes. Three double A batteries power the unit. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 2:48 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter do they run on batteries? I have an expensive model from Science Products that is a standard meter with a speak unit affixed and I have to run it on an adaptor. I'm lucky it's not a woodwork item or I'd have cut that cord or broken it by now. On Sun, 31 May 2009, NLG wrote: I have three of them. The first one bit the dust, however, I used it so often that I bought two more, one is in storage just in case they quit making them. The price you quoted is about the same as I paid a year ago. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I also want to know if the price is reasonable. Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA batteries are required. Thanks, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter
I have three of them. The first one bit the dust, however, I used it so often that I bought two more, one is in storage just in case they quit making them. The price you quoted is about the same as I paid a year ago. - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 2:05 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Digital Multimeter I saw this item and wondered if anyone had any experience with it. I also want to know if the price is reasonable. Marlin P. Jones and Associates has a Talking Digital Multimeter for $39.95. It measures voltage and current and speaks the results. Two AA batteries are required. Thanks, Betsy Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas/electric refrigerator
That is correct. Most have an electric element and no compressor. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 9:14 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas/electric refrigerator I plead ignorance on this type of fridge. I thought the 120 would be for when you were at the camp site and could power up. The propane is supposed to work when you are traveling. As far as hearing a compressor, I really don't know. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 8:56 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gas/electric refrigerator HI, I have a old camper with a propane gas / 120 electric refrigerator in it.. Right now I have no gas to try the refrigerator but when I try it on electric Don't here any noise like a compressor starting.. This thing was given to me so this the first time trying this stuff.. Would the refrigerator just have a electric heating unit in it to heat up the refrigerant like the gas would and not have a compressor in it??? Thanks for any help.. ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking tire gauge?
I am not really sure where I got mine. I have a few of them. Like Bob's, mine also have a button on them so that you could hold it closer to your ear and push the button to have the reading repeated. I would say that the voice is similar to a talking watch in clarity and volume. - Original Message - From: john schwery To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 8:39 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] talking tire gauge? Where does one get a talking tire gauge and are they clear voiced? Do they have enough volume to hear them? I wear2 hearing aids so that is a concern. John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Router Question
Remove the colet. This may be difficult if your router hasn't been used for a while. You may need a dental pick or something similar to get it out. After you get it out, try spreading it slightly then put it back and try installing the bit. If this fails, you will need to purchase a new colet. - Original Message - From: Patrick Sturdivant To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 1:28 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Router Question I have a router that I am having a problem with and was wondering if someone could offer some beginner information on the proper use of it when you can't see. It is a Skill 1/2 inch hand held router. Here is my main problem. Got a 1/2 inch diameter round over bit and I can't figure out how to install it in the Colet. Used the little lever to lock the shaft down from spinning while I loosened the big nut. Got the nut off and found the Colet. I set the shaft of the bit on the Colet but the Colet is a fraction too small or the shaft of the bit is a fraction too big. So what am I missing? I presume a rubber mallet used with some encouragement on the router bit to install into the Colet isn't a good idea. Any help is appreciated. If there was a Blind Handyman show that had a segment on the use of a router I would appreciate knowing what the show number is. If a show hasn't been done on using a hand held router I would like to suggest this might be a good opportunity to help those blind handymen who like to use this type of tool. Thanks Patrick [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wheels and my brushhog
Sounds to me that the reference to wheels means the cutting blade (disk) verses a string? - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 3:01 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Wheels and my brushhog I'm a little confused too, can you describe the tool? Most I guess all of the ones I know about would have wheels already. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 20:12 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Wheels and my brushhog Are you meaning brush hog or bush hog. There is a huge difference at least over here. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of carl Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 2:54 PM To: blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Wheels and my brushhog is a brush hog the same thing as a weed wacker or in the uk as a strimmer? - Original Message - From: RJ r...@velocity. mailto:rjf1%40velocity.net net To: handyman blindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 6:27 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Wheels and my brushhog I got the wheels for my Stilh 100-10 brushhog today. I was able to run the brushhog without any problem, even though I couldn't see where or what I was cutting. But my sighted wife said she finds the wheels to be more than what she expected. I think with the wheels a low vision person could run the hog without a problem. These large brushhogs, as near as I know don't come with wheels, I know Stihl doesn't make them. RJ Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ p .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-owner%40yahoogroups.com ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_ p .org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio. ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday .org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail- http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws- http://www.jaws-users.com/ users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman- mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.comYahoo h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] garage door openers
The first thing to try is; Disconnect the door from the opener by pulling the rope hanging in the middle of the door, then see if you can manually open and close the door. There may be something interfearing with the travel of the door. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 11:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] garage door openers HI, Does any one know any thing about garage door openers??? My opener today stopped working the motor comes on but the chain does not move.. Looks like the chain and cable are on right but the chain gear just will not turn.. Any ideas?? ROB FROM MINNESOTA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Watering a large Garden with water pressure issues
You need a larger diameter hose because of the hydraulic friction loss . Depending on your setup, you might try opperating only two sprinklers at a time. If you still can not opperate the farthest sprinklers on the run, in this manner, try increasing the diameter of your hose. - Original Message - From: RiverWind To: Blind Handymen's Forum Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:24 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Watering a large Garden with water pressure issues Greetings, Ok folks, I have a question for which I can find absolutely no solution. We have just planted our spring vegetable garden, and we require six sprinklers in order to adequately irrigate it. Well, when all of the sprinklers are hooked up and the hose turned on, some of the end sprinklers aren't getting enough water with which to function. Admittedly, there is a lot of hose, well over a hundred yards. So naturally there are issues with water pressure. Turning up the pressure gage on the well pump doesn't seem to help the matter at all. Aside from getting a new pump, which I can't afford, is there any product or appliance I can buy, or any sort of procedure I could perform that would give me more water pressure in order to irrigate my garden? Thanks so much in advance. Bright Blessings, RiverWind [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rotating Tyres
Max might be thinking about a dirrectional tire. Like some of the 4x4 off roaders run. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 9:42 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rotating Tyres Since the radial tire, front to back is the recommended way unless the start to cup or you are correcting for a bad alignment. Radials recommend figure 8 for those problems. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rotating Tyres There are some kind of tires that have to always stay on the same side of the car. You can't figure 8 those tires. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy bobke...@bellsouth.net To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 3:06 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rotating Tyres Not sure what you mean by 5 new ones... Here in the states the way to rotate 4 tires is to keep them on the same side. So it's front to back and back to front. If you develop problems with the tires such as cupping, which you can pick up the slapping sound the tire makes, then you figure eight them. In this case the front left goes to right read and left rear goes to front right. These directions are all the same no matter what side you drive from. Just make your picture standing in back of the car looking forward. - Original Message - From: Agent86b To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 3:13 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rotating Tyres Hi all, we have just purchased a new car. I wish to rotate the tyres from time - to - time. As there are five new ones, what is the rotation order? Please if anybody answers this can you say what country you are from so I can change it to a right-hand drive car if necessary. Thanks for any advice. Max. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] humidifiers
Mine is a Beamis and it sounds similar to yours. Mine also drains the right tank first, but if I forget to fill the right tank, it will drain the left side tank. Perhaps it isn't level, I never checked it. Try not filling the empty tank and see if yours will also then drain the second tank. - Original Message - From: frank cunningham To: blind handyman Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 10:16 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] humidifiers Hello All, I have a portable humidifier which you fill 2 water containers and slide them down into the humidifier. The reservoir fills as water is needed. when one container is empty the other one is suppose to start filling the reservoir, until they are both empty. The problem I have is the right side one works fine and empties correctly, yet the left side fails to continue the process. I have checked the push valve and it works fine. any suggestions... Frank Sorry for the long post... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears
And if Betsy's number doesn't work for you try the following number that I got from searspartsdirect.com (800) 252-1698 Monday - Friday 7am - 9pm Central time Saturday - Sunday 9am - 7pm Central time - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 6:00 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] dryer parts from Sears Aloha Lee, Try this: 800-469-4663 At 12:47 PM 1/23/2009, you wrote: Do you know of a number to call for a supplier of parts for a Sears dryer . which is a Kenmore 90 series. we went to our local Sears outlet store and apparently his comment was he could order a dryer element with the part number we have but could not garunetee that we would get that part and nothing could be returned. I called another number they gave me and I was not able to get passed the language barrier. any help with a solid phone number for parts would be appreciated. this dryer is maybe ten years old. thanks.Lee -- No one can feel as helpless as the owner of a sick goldfish. Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting
Yes. The floor covering goes down before the cabinets. I just ran into a situation where the cabinets with a under the counter dish washer was in stalled then the floor covering was installed up to the cabinets. It was a real task to remove the dish washer for servicing because it was lower than the floor covering! - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 5:25 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The kitchen remodel drama is starting Aloha everyone, It's time to replace the counters in our kitchen and we have been advised that since our cabinets are 30 years old and were not the best quality to begin with, that we really need to replace the cabinets also. We were planning to install vinyl in the kitchen to match the vinyl that we put in the entry way and in part of my office, but now they are suggesting that since we are going to replace the cabinets, that we should wait until the cabinets have been removed, then install the vinyl and then put the cabinets on top of the vinyl. Is that usual? I am wanting thoughts and ideas about this project. Do any of you have items in your kitchens that you really like or dislike? I was looking at some lazy-susan units that look like they would be very helpful, but I just don't know how well they hold up and if they are truly sturdy. Besides suggesting that I move out until the job is done, I welcome any and all suggestions. Perhaps I can get my husband to take a vacation while the work is being done. That would really be of great help,...grin. Thanks, Betsy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet
If yours is like mine, you have to push a flat bladed screwdriver between the inner slide and the one rivoted to the drawer. You have to insert the screwdriver before the drawer is all the way out because the catch that keeps the drawer from coming all the way out consists of two tabs one on the inner slide and one on the drawer slide. The open end of the inner tab is tward the back of the cabinet and the open end of the tab attached to the drawer slide is tward you as you are opening the drawer. These tabs lock into each other when the drawer is pulled all the way out. Hopefully I explained it well enough that you get the picture. With a little patients you should bee able to remove the drawer. Good luck :) - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 10:04 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tool cabinet OK help. I have a roll around Sears Craftsman tool cabinet. Steel 4 drawer locking. Here is what has happened. A set of sockets in a plastic case was lain in the bottom drawer on top of some other stuff , somehow in shutting the drawers it slid and is setting vertical behind something else. Anyway the second drawer up will not shut and the bottom is not asseble because the second drawer up is being pulled out with this plastic case. We, myself and sighted wife have looked and can find no latches to free the drawer on top so we could pull it entirely out of the cabinet and fix things. Is there a hidden catch or am I going to have to saw part of the back out of the upper drawer so I can fish my hand down into the other one. Ron [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable
I would put dielectric grease on the splice. If the jar isn't huge, I would fill it also with dielectric grease. - Original Message - From: Jewel jewelbla...@xtra.co.nz To: bhm blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 08:34 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Underground electricity cable I have widened a gateway under which runs the cable carrying the electricity to my hot wire fence. Consequently, I have had to extend the cable. Preventing the joint from coming in contact with water and soil: both implacable enemies of electricity: is the essential component to making the extension work. What I have done is to drill a hole in the lid and bottom of a plastic jar: fed the cable through the holes so that one cable has the lid threaded on to it, and the other, the jar itself. I then clamped the two cables together and pulled the cable back so that the clamp is enclosed within the jar and screwed the lid on. I haven't reburied the cable yet, as I wanted to know if you think that what I have done, to date, is sufficient protection. When I do dig the cable back in, I plan to put a brick on either side of the jar so that, if a vehicle should pass over top of it, it will be the bricks that will take the weight, leaving the jar unhurt! I would have preferred to use a glass jar, but I did not know how to drill a hole through glass: hence the ubiquitous plastic jar. If I had used a glass jar, its life within the ground would be very long, but what about the plastic. It is not too late to change the jars if anyone can tell me a good, safe way to drill through glass! Any better ideas will be studied and evaluated for their betterness! Jewel Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:blindhandyman-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: blindhandyman-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[BlindHandyMan] Talking Thermometer for smoking meat
Hi, I just finished building a thermostatic controlled cooker/smoker out of an old refrigerator. I have a large smokehouse down back but needed something that I could more closely regulate the smokehouse temperature Yesterday, I smoked 12 pounds of Canadian bacon and had to have a sighted person set my thermometer. I am looking for a wireless cooking thermometer to use to monitor the internal temperature of the meat I am smoking/cooking.. I need a thermometer with a probe that I can insert into the meat and set a temperature on the unit (for example 150 degrees F) and have an alarm sound when the internal temp of the meat reaches the set temperature (in this example, 150 degrees F). What are you guys/gals using for thermometers when making your smoked sausages, bacons, hams, beef sticks, etc? Thanks :)
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Thermometer for smoking meat
A wireless thermometer will work since the only thing inside the smoker is the probe. It is attached to a cable that runs to the outside of the smoker and attaches to the thermometer unit that I sit on top of the smoker. In bad weather, I place the thermometer in a zip-lock bag to protect it from the weather. Thanks for the tip to the cooking in the dark group. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 02:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Thermometer for smoking meat I really wonder if a wireless thermometer would work inside of the old refrigerator, the metal may work as a shield. You may have more luck in getting an answer on the cooking in the dark list. I do not have the subscription information but I think a search for cooking in the dark will probably get you there. - Original Message - From: NLG [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 8:53 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking Thermometer for smoking meat Hi, I just finished building a thermostatic controlled cooker/smoker out of an old refrigerator. I have a large smokehouse down back but needed something that I could more closely regulate the smokehouse temperature Yesterday, I smoked 12 pounds of Canadian bacon and had to have a sighted person set my thermometer. I am looking for a wireless cooking thermometer to use to monitor the internal temperature of the meat I am smoking/cooking.. I need a thermometer with a probe that I can insert into the meat and set a temperature on the unit (for example 150 degrees F) and have an alarm sound when the internal temp of the meat reaches the set temperature (in this example, 150 degrees F). What are you guys/gals using for thermometers when making your smoked sausages, bacons, hams, beef sticks, etc? Thanks :) Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __ NOD32 3671 (20081208) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] re-post Fw: Talking Meat Thermometers
Thanks, I did see both the Brookstone and the Grill-right thermometers however, it is not clear from the descriptions if a person can program in a specific temperature or if you have to use a preprogrammed temperature setting. I smoke all kinds of different meats and some have to be smoked untill an internal temperature of 140 degrees F is reached while another might need an internal temperature of 155 degrees F and so on. I thought maybe someone here has either the Brookstone or the Grill-right thermometer and could tell me if indeed a person can program in a specific temperature. The thermometer I am using now (not sure what brand it is) does allow for programming in a temperature but like most off the shelf products, it doesn't talk. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: handyman-blind Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 07:06 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] re-post Fw: Talking Meat Thermometers Here is another re-post Lenny - Original Message - From: Irwin Hott [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:28 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fw: Talking Meat Thermometers - Original Message - From: BlindNews Mailing List To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:51 PM Subject: Talking Meat Thermometers The Fred's Head Companion Friday, June 15, 2007 Talking Meat Thermometers By Michael McCarty Friday, June 15, 2007 Grill Alert: Talking Remote Meat Thermometer Grilling is a great way to entertain. Constantly standing next to the grill, however, is not. Now you can have the freedom to mingle with this remote meat thermometer. A voice prompt alerts you when your meat is Almost Ready and Ready. It's one of the hottest accessible gifts you can give! A remote meat thermometer takes the guesswork out of grilling. Insert the stainless steel probes in the center of the meat, select the type of meat and how you would like it cooked and let this wireless remote cooking thermometer do the rest. You can relax knowing that you will not overcook your food! Features: Works from up to 300 feet away. Belt clip for added freedom. Display backlight for convenient night grilling. Water resistant for easy cleanup. Wireless remote cooking thermometer operates at 433Mhz. Uses two AA batteries and two AAA batteries (not included). Click this link to purchase the Grill AlertTalking Remote Meat Thermometer from Brookstone. http://www.brookstone.com/store/thumbnail.asp?wid=3cid=33sid=465search_t The Grill Right Wireless Talking BBQ/Oven Thermometer Hate not knowing when meat is properly cooked? Maybe you like meat cooked a certain way? This wireless thermometer will verbally tell you when your meat has reached its perfect temperature. You can program it for 8 entrees (beef, lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, turkey, chicken, and fish), choose the doneness you want, and just start grilling. Features LCD screen, remote wireless probe, speaks in 5 languages, has range from 32°F to 572°F, four alert options (almost ready, ready, overcooked, out-of-range), audio alarm, and the main unit can receive probe signal from up to 330 feet away. Click this link to purchase the Grill Right Wireless Talking BBQ/Oven Thermometer from Oregon Scientific. http://www2.oregonscientific.com/shop/product.asp?cid=9scid=99pid=763 Posted by Michael McCarty at 12:56 PM http://fredsheadcompanion.blogspot.com/2006/10/grill-alerttalking-remote-meat.html -- -- BlindNews mailing list To contact a list moderator about a problem or to make a request, send a message to [EMAIL PROTECTED] The BlindNews list is archived at: http://GeoffAndWen.com/blind/ To address a message to all members of the list, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Access your subscription info at: http://blindprogramming.com/mailman/listinfo/blindnews_blindprogramming.com To unsubscribe via e-mail: send a message to [EMAIL PROTECTED] with the word unsubscribe in either the subject or body of the message [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank
Re: [BlindHandyMan] caning and repairing chairs
Where is a good place to learn the art of caneing? I see some basic instruction in my cursory search on the subject but didn't completely understand it. For instance, after you run the cane from front to back, when running the cane from side to side does it go over all the ones running front to back or do you weave it over and under? Any titles of recorded books, internet web sites, or pod casts would be appreciated. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 08:55 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] caning and repairing chairs Kevin just said he is getting $1.00 per hole and when we first started in the late 50's we were at 15 cents a hole and when I left home in 66 Mom was getting 26 cents a hole. The point I would like to make if one has the ability to use your hands and think. you might not get rich but you could make some money not only caneing but repairing older furniture. You might need some sighted help to scout out and find some deals on chairs of different kinds but the money is out there as is the ability to apply the skills as a blind handyman or handywoman. Then you toss in some learned skills at your ability to haggle on price and work that you would be willing to take in. Lee -- The goal of science is to build better mousetraps. The goal of nature is to build better mice. Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] toyata headlight bulb
Just one thing to add to what Bob said...With some vehicles you have to remove a plastic panel to get at the light sockdet fixtures. Your owners manual should tell you what you need to do to remove and replace a headlight. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 15:20 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] toyata headlight bulb I haven't looked at one in a good while. But almost all headlights are changed from the back side now. There is the plastic lens across the front and then the bulb either unplugs or unscrews from the back side. As these are halogen or some exotic compound now you have to be extra careful to keep your fingers off of the glass. They are coated and removing the coating by touching the glass can shorten bulb life. - Original Message - From: Peter Mikochik To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:06 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] toyata headlight bulb hi guys anyone here know how to change a low beam headlight bulb on a 2002 toyata minivan? pete [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas.
I never researched to see what it cost or how many cubic feet of natural gas I would have to burn to produce a KW of electricity...I'll leave that for others with more free time on their hands than I have. My generator is portable. It has a set of wheels on it. When I have a power outage, I pull the generator out of my garage which is only about 12 feet from my natural gas connection and the electrical connection. After the outage is over, I put the generator back into the garage, so I don't have a shelter over it while it is in service. I have never had a problem with it in any weather .conditions, sunny, rain or snow by not having it sheltered. As far as maintanance, the only thing I have had to do is change oil in the engine. I don't have an hour meter on the unit so can't tell you how many hours I have on it. I would guess less than 200 hours in 10 years. I can tell you that running it on natural gas verses gasoline, the oil when I change it is cleaner and I am still running with the original spark plug. - Original Message - From: Spiro To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 22:56 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Gas. I have a few questions. What does the natural gas converted electric cost perKW? How much maintenance to run one of these? What kind of shelter/venting do they need? On Mon, 10 Nov 2008, NLG wrote: The horse power is 11 and it does have a float type carb. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 08:45 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas. Hi, could you till me what HP. your briggs and stratton engine is? Also do you have the float type carb. on it??? Thanks Rob from Minnesota - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 5:47 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas. Hi, Yes, in my case, I can run my generator on either natural gas or gasoline. The engine on my generator is a Briggs and Stratton. The addaptor to run on natural gas fits right on top of the carb. The choke plate is moved on this engine by sliding a lever. After installing the natural gas addaptor on top of the carb, the sliding choke lever was not long enough to reach the arm on the choke plate, so I had to extend the lever to reach the arm on the choke plate. I extended it with a short piece of metal I cut from a piece of roof flashing and rivoted it to the end of the choke lever with two small pop rivots. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 23:49 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas. I do not understand you rmessage here when yhou refer to to extend the choke so I can run gasoline. did I miss something. can you run these engines on natural gas and pr gasoline? thanks for the explaining.Lee On Sun, Nov 09, 2008 at 12:51:34PM -0500, NLG wrote: I converted my generator to run on natural gas about 10 yearrs ago. I don't remember now where I bought the kit but it was somewhere online. I do remember telling the sales person the model of the engine on my generator and that was the only information he needed. He then sent me the kit which consisted of a natural gas regulator ( looks similar to the one on a gas grill) an adaptor that bolted onto the carb, a piece of hose that connected the regulator to the adaptor, and a few bolts and clamps. It was pretty simple to hook up, I completed the job in less than an hour. The most difficult part was extending the choke linkage to get it to reach so I could still run it on gasoline - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 12:27 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Hi all, I read this message about generator conversion kits and took a look at the web site. I was wondering if anyone has ever done such a conversion. If so, how well did it work out? Was the actual conversion difficult to do? Thanks a lot. Take care, Ed Przybylek -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 7:27 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Bill, I found this site. They have some interesting information about conversions. I didn't notice prices. They stated that a 20? cylinder is equal to 5 gallons of gas. At about $4 per gallon it is almost
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas.
The horse power is 11 and it does have a float type carb. - Original Message - From: Rob Monitor To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 08:45 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas. Hi, could you till me what HP. your briggs and stratton engine is? Also do you have the float type carb. on it??? Thanks Rob from Minnesota - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 5:47 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas. Hi, Yes, in my case, I can run my generator on either natural gas or gasoline. The engine on my generator is a Briggs and Stratton. The addaptor to run on natural gas fits right on top of the carb. The choke plate is moved on this engine by sliding a lever. After installing the natural gas addaptor on top of the carb, the sliding choke lever was not long enough to reach the arm on the choke plate, so I had to extend the lever to reach the arm on the choke plate. I extended it with a short piece of metal I cut from a piece of roof flashing and rivoted it to the end of the choke lever with two small pop rivots. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 23:49 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas. I do not understand you rmessage here when yhou refer to to extend the choke so I can run gasoline. did I miss something. can you run these engines on natural gas and pr gasoline? thanks for the explaining.Lee On Sun, Nov 09, 2008 at 12:51:34PM -0500, NLG wrote: I converted my generator to run on natural gas about 10 yearrs ago. I don't remember now where I bought the kit but it was somewhere online. I do remember telling the sales person the model of the engine on my generator and that was the only information he needed. He then sent me the kit which consisted of a natural gas regulator ( looks similar to the one on a gas grill) an adaptor that bolted onto the carb, a piece of hose that connected the regulator to the adaptor, and a few bolts and clamps. It was pretty simple to hook up, I completed the job in less than an hour. The most difficult part was extending the choke linkage to get it to reach so I could still run it on gasoline - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 12:27 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Hi all, I read this message about generator conversion kits and took a look at the web site. I was wondering if anyone has ever done such a conversion. If so, how well did it work out? Was the actual conversion difficult to do? Thanks a lot. Take care, Ed Przybylek -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 7:27 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Bill, I found this site. They have some interesting information about conversions. I didn't notice prices. They stated that a 20£ cylinder is equal to 5 gallons of gas. At about $4 per gallon it is almost double what I just paid for my grill tank to be filled at $11. http://www.propane-generators.com/ Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- The Harvard Law states: Under controlled conditions of light, temperature, humidity, and nutrition, the organism will do as it damn well pleases. -- Larry Wall in [EMAIL PROTECTED] Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net [Non-text portions
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas.
Hi, Yes, in my case, I can run my generator on either natural gas or gasoline. The engine on my generator is a Briggs and Stratton. The addaptor to run on natural gas fits right on top of the carb. The choke plate is moved on this engine by sliding a lever. After installing the natural gas addaptor on top of the carb, the sliding choke lever was not long enough to reach the arm on the choke plate, so I had to extend the lever to reach the arm on the choke plate. I extended it with a short piece of metal I cut from a piece of roof flashing and rivoted it to the end of the choke lever with two small pop rivots. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 23:49 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane andNatural Gas. I do not understand you rmessage here when yhou refer to to extend the choke so I can run gasoline. did I miss something. can you run these engines on natural gas and pr gasoline? thanks for the explaining.Lee On Sun, Nov 09, 2008 at 12:51:34PM -0500, NLG wrote: I converted my generator to run on natural gas about 10 yearrs ago. I don't remember now where I bought the kit but it was somewhere online. I do remember telling the sales person the model of the engine on my generator and that was the only information he needed. He then sent me the kit which consisted of a natural gas regulator ( looks similar to the one on a gas grill) an adaptor that bolted onto the carb, a piece of hose that connected the regulator to the adaptor, and a few bolts and clamps. It was pretty simple to hook up, I completed the job in less than an hour. The most difficult part was extending the choke linkage to get it to reach so I could still run it on gasoline - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 12:27 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Hi all, I read this message about generator conversion kits and took a look at the web site. I was wondering if anyone has ever done such a conversion. If so, how well did it work out? Was the actual conversion difficult to do? Thanks a lot. Take care, Ed Przybylek -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 7:27 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Bill, I found this site. They have some interesting information about conversions. I didn't notice prices. They stated that a 20£ cylinder is equal to 5 gallons of gas. At about $4 per gallon it is almost double what I just paid for my grill tank to be filled at $11. http://www.propane-generators.com/ Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- The Harvard Law states: Under controlled conditions of light, temperature, humidity, and nutrition, the organism will do as it damn well pleases. -- Larry Wall in [EMAIL PROTECTED] Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas.
I converted my generator to run on natural gas about 10 yearrs ago. I don't remember now where I bought the kit but it was somewhere online. I do remember telling the sales person the model of the engine on my generator and that was the only information he needed. He then sent me the kit which consisted of a natural gas regulator ( looks similar to the one on a gas grill) an adaptor that bolted onto the carb, a piece of hose that connected the regulator to the adaptor, and a few bolts and clamps. It was pretty simple to hook up, I completed the job in less than an hour. The most difficult part was extending the choke linkage to get it to reach so I could still run it on gasoline - Original Message - From: Edward Przybylek To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 12:27 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Hi all, I read this message about generator conversion kits and took a look at the web site. I was wondering if anyone has ever done such a conversion. If so, how well did it work out? Was the actual conversion difficult to do? Thanks a lot. Take care, Ed Przybylek -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 7:27 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas. Bill, I found this site. They have some interesting information about conversions. I didn't notice prices. They stated that a 20£ cylinder is equal to 5 gallons of gas. At about $4 per gallon it is almost double what I just paid for my grill tank to be filled at $11. http://www.propane-generators.com/ Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] stain on the stainless steel
Stainless wool. Don't ever use an SOS or BBrillo, etc pad on stainless steel. - Original Message - From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 13:01 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stain on the stainless steel Ok folks, we really screwed up here. My wife and I both forgot the damned cast-iron pan in the kitchen sink. This morning she found a stain on the bottom of the sink and man we really freaked and worked hard to get rid of it. Not knowing what to use, she tried a bit of CLR and we scrubbed like hell. Got most of it out, but there's one spot that is still there and this is a new sink. So, anyone have any suggestions, please please let me know what I can use to get rid of this stain. I have to admit I put the pan down there for a minute while letting it dry a bit as I finished some other stuff and well needless to say, this and that came along and derailed my memory. tnx Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] 4 hour timer
Not sure what situation you need this timer for. I would think that there would be many that could be downloaded and be installed on your computer. - Original Message - From: Tom Hodges To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 09:34 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] 4 hour timer Lenny, If you're just looking for something to let you know when 4 hours is up, we have a kitchen timer that goes all the way up to 23 hours and 59 minutes. If you set it for 4 hours, when it goes off, press the button to stop the beeping, then press again to re-start the timer. That way you don't have to keep resetting the timer. Ours is from Williams-Sonoma about 10 years ago and it goes about $20, but have since found the same type at cheaper places, such as Bed, Bath Beyond. If this is not what you're looking - good luck! -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 3:16 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] 4 hour timer Does anyone know where I can get a 4 hour timer? None of my clocks or watches will allow me to set a timer for 4 hour intervals. I don't like the thought of resetting an alarm ever 4 hours for the next week or so. Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ Lenny Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut
Yes it does. - Original Message - From: Gary Hale To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 08:48 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut Does current flow to a burned out or missing light bulb when the light switch is turned on? Gary in TX [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut
What do you mean by difference? The outlets don't consume electricity if nothing is plugged into them I am not trying to come across as a smart ass...It is just that the subject line doesn't indicate whether we are talking about saving electricity use, or what.. - Original Message - From: Shawn Keen To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 08:59 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut Hi, I was talking to a friend in London one time, and he said all the power plugs over there have an on off switch. I know there system is different than ours. But I wonder if that would make any difference if you could turn plugs off if your not using them? - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 8:56 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut Hi Gary, When the switch is turned on current is sent to the light fixture. If the bulb is missing or burned out there is no completion of the circuit. Only when a circuit is completed is there a use of power. Like your outlets current is to the outlet but no use until something is plugged in or turned on. - Original Message - From: Gary Hale [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 9:48 AM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut Does current flow to a burned out or missing light bulb when the light switch is turned on? Gary in TX Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __ NOD32 3566 (20081029) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut
OK, I stand corrected For safety reasons though, I wouldn't be sticking my finger a screwdriver or anything else in a light socket without turning the switch off. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 17:31 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut Gary asked. Does current flow to a burned out or missing light bulb when the light switch is turned on? Then NLG replied. Yes it does. I beg to differ. Current can not pass through an open circuit. When a light bulb is burned out its filament is open. Current cannot possibly flow through an open circuit. That's a law of physics and you can't get around it. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: NLG [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 2:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut Yes it does. - Original Message - From: Gary Hale To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 08:48 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electrical power uses cut Does current flow to a burned out or missing light bulb when the light switch is turned on? Gary in TX [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] update on Microwave!
Before you give up on the Hamilton Beach, check to make sure the problem isn't a blown fuse in the microwave itself. To access the fuse you will probably have to remove the side of the microwave where the electric cord enters. Follow the electric cord and you should find the fuse. Make sure the microwave is unplugged from the electrical outlet before attempting this. - Original Message - From: Rita To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Cc: Claudia Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 07:52 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] update on Microwave! Hi Claudia, There are so many ways to deal with a touch screen on the microwave. Loc dots are nice and some folks put them on in the form of the pattern of five on dice. You ten have a less cluttered screen that way. Rita On Fri, 24 Oct 2008, Claudia wrote: Hi All, Thanks for all of your suggestions. I do plan to also contact Wal-Mart, to inform them of this issue with Hamilton Beach! I had to go out and purchase another microwave last night; I bought an Emerson, and it has a touch screen, but they all do. I didn't see one that was even remotely accessible, but what could I do? I'll have someone come over later today to help me label the thing! Does anyone know if Emerson provides braille overlays, for their products? I looked at purchasing a GE Because I heard they might do that, but they were all much more expensive! Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Microwave that doesn't talk but can be used by the blind.
I am not sure if this Panasonic model is still being produced but after I read the following post, I purchased it, and I can say, that it is the most blind friendly non-talking microwave I have ever owned. It doesn't have the so often found touch pad panel, rather a raised button pannel that is easily felt.I really like mine. Review of the Panasonic microwave oven model NNT994SF by a blind person below: I figured out the timer so I added that and a couple of other minor points. I think the defrost feature is another censor thing so if you want to experiment with that, you'll be able to figure it out. If you just want to enter a defrost, they recommend setting the power level at 3, so here's the final unless someone else finds out something. Gail Panasonic microwave oven model NNT994SF The top of the panel is a display.. Below the display is an array of buttons which are quite prominent. They are as follows. I will go from left to right. Row 1: power level, popcorn, sensor reheat Row 2: 1, 2, 3, Breakfast Row 3: 4, 5, 6, lunch-snack Row 4: 7, 8, 9, side dish Row 5: timer, 0, clock, dinner Row 6: quick minute, function, more-less, invert-turbo-defrost Row 7: start, beverages Row 8: stop-reset, keep warm To set cooking time, you press number keys and then start. For example, to set it for 2 minutes and 30 seconds, press 0230 then start. Like most microwaves you press two digits for the minutes and two for the seconds. If you want to cook using half power, first you press the power button five times and then you set the time and press start. The power button works on a percent scale, so 5 presses is 50 percent. If you don't press power at all, it cooks at high power, 100 percent. If you press keys and you don't hear a beep, press stop/reset and start over. If you press breakfast once and then start, the setting is for one bowl of instant oatmeal or comparable hot cereal with liquid mixed in. Press breakfast twice and start for 2 to 8 links of breakfast sausage. Press breakfast 3 times and start for an omelet. Press lunch once and start for soup, 1 to two cups, covered with vented plastic wrap. Press lunch twice and start for frozen entrees, 8-32 ounces. Press lunch 3 times and start for frozen pizza. This is for small single serving pizza. Press lunch 4 times and start for one frozen pocket sandwich. Press side dish once and start for baked potatoes, 4 maximum, pierced several times with a fork. Press side dish twice and start for fresh vegetables, 4 to 16 ounces. Press side dish 3 times and start for frozen vegetables, 6 to 16 ounces. Press side dish 4 times and start for canned vegetables, 15 ounces. Press side dish 5 times for white rice and 6 times for brown rice, 1/2 to 1 1/2 cups prepared as the package directs. Press dinner once and start for frozen dinner, one, 11 to 16 ounces. Press dinner twice and start for pasta, 2 to 8 ounces, with water as package directs. Press dinner 3 times and start for stew, 1 to 2 cups. This is for stew that has been cooked or for canned stew, maybe for frozen. Press dinner 4 times and start for ground meat, 16 to 32 ounces. This is for meat that has been broken apart to brown for a casserole or other recipe. Press dinner 5 times and start for fish fillets, 4 to 16 ounces. This is sensor cooking and with what I've done it has worked very well, but I'm going to experiWith this sensor cooking, I'm ment and time things as I do them to make sure it works the way I expect it to.. It says you can put in a plate of food for reheating, press sensor reheat and start and it will reheat the food.. This works. With the sensor cooking, when it beeps twice, this means it's almost done. The function button is to shut things off or turn them back on, like the beep and a child lock. The popcorn button is another sensor cook and it's for popping in a microwave popper or one bag at a time of microwave popcorn. I'd stick to just putting in the time or else experimenting with this one. To set the clock, press clock, enter the time using the numbers and press clock again. To set the timer, press timer, enter the amount of time you want using the numbers. Press start. The microwave will not run but after the amount of time you put in, it will beep five times. Quick minute sets it for a minute. If you press it for the number of minutes you want, you don't have to use the numbers. For instance, if you press it five times and then press start, it will cook for five minutes. Beverages works the same way. If you want to heat a cup of water, press it once and press start. If you want to heat two cups, press it twice and press start. This should get you started. I'm keeping this file so if anyone has any other additions, let me know. If it becomes more complete, I'll put it on the list again. :
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice
Perhaps this could be accomplished by attaching a dial inclinometer to a 2 or four foot level. If the face/lense of the dial can be removed so the pointer on the dial could be felt...I have a neighborhood hardware store in my area with very knowledgable and helpful people working there. The next time I get into town, I'll find out what is available. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 00:14 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice I think the pendulum is a better solution. For the ball and channel the channel has to be machined to a very accurate arc to give a valid indication. The pendulum always hangs straight down no matter what. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: NLG [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice Interesting. I hear you about sensative. From personal experience, I find that too accurate, costs time and is not necessary. For example, if you were pouring a new sidewalk, you want a slight slope so that the water will run off but if you have an eighth inch drop in 3 feet or a half inch, who really cares, or could tell, as long as the water runs off. In my opinion accuracy in leveling something is not nearly as critical as making sure your saw cuts right on . We need to come up with a kinda cage type afair that contains a ball bearing inwich the ball can't fall out, is open, so that if necessary, you could feel the ball possission when it travels along a channel. This channel could be attached to any standard carpender's level available to the public at any standard hardware store. This design would work for leveling horizontally but if leveling vertically, we would need another ball bearing traveling 90 degrees in the same kind of closed cage to the first setup used to read level in the horizontal. Not sure if I made myself clear to all, but I am sure some here know what I am saying. I would be interested in hearing your suggestions on what size balls,length channel excetra you think would make this work for the blind. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 21:52 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice Absolutely! Though the one I have is only about 8 inches long it works too well. A 4 foot one really only needs the ball channel to be relatively short. This one would be better if the top surface with the channel in it were machined with a very slight arc, being flat it is far too sensitive. There is no value in more than one quality ball bearing, this one is about an inch and a beautiful piece of polished metal it is too. I have also seen a rather good idea using a pendulum however it was outrageously expensive. This one though did solve the problem of measuring both horizontal and vertical. Essentially it was a stick with a semicircular protractor fixed to one edge a little more than half a circle actually. There was a slot in the stick and a pendulum with a substantial weight on the short end of a pivoted pointer fixed by a pin through the stick. The pointer described an arc just proud of the edge of the protractor which was marked at 90 and 180 degrees so, when the stick is horizontal the weighted end of the pointer pulls the other end in line with the marked edge of the protractor. This had a button one could press to hold the pointer for examination, it would have been better if that break was a toggle because it was difficult to hold and examine the pointer in an actual working situation. The other issue of course was that the stick is only 8 or 10 inches long and being wood, maybe not so good as something forged. It also cost something like 80 bucks I think back in around 1992. It may have come from RNIB too, if so probably a lot cheaper there. This style though strikes me as a much better and should be much cheaper, absolutely reliable solution to a level and the protractor could be marked at significant intervals, probably 5 degrees at least. Finally, I have thought of using something like this with a very true surface which could be bonded probably with screws to the edge of a quality common builder's level to give the 4 foot level without the need of machining a purpose built model which should keep the cost down. For some reason
Re: [BlindHandyMan] some usful info request pleas
I have also used a swipe with a turpentine brush on the north end of a south bound cat to accomplish the same thing. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 10:31 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] some usful info request pleas I use the leading pointy end of a size 7 and a half cowboy boot to repel cats in my garden. Does that count? - Original Message - From: carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 9:49 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] some usful info request pleas i'm looking for interesting things like extrordenary uses for ordenery things or simalor as i hav this one - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 2:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] some usful info request pleas You really don't give much to work with here. What are you looking to do or with what do you hope to do it? - Original Message - From: carl To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 8:11 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] some usful info request pleas i'm looking for some info about useing unusual things to o cheeve an objecktive [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Dispose of Unused Medicines
I think that kid has branched out? Seems like every neighborhood has one...Maybe it's a franchise? - Original Message - From: rs_denis To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 19:43 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Dispose of Unused Medicines Boy there's a lot here on disposing of drugs. The kid down the street recycles all the left over drugs in the neighborhood. He says he has deals for recycling them all over the county and guarantees that they will all be liver or kidney filtered before they can escape back into the environment. He even offers a service without charge (unless one chooses to press them) in which he will willingly enter the house and remove all the drugs from the medicine cabinets to allow one to get a fresh start and not worry about which bottle has the older drugs. RD - Original Message - [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice
Reading your post has kindled my early/year thought of I have often thought about making a level that works with a ball or balls. I got this idea many years ago, when I was a kid, when working a puzzle. The puzzle was a small game that you could hold in your hand. It was about the size of a snuff can ... some times not round but rectangular in shape. The toy/game was made of a tin bottom, with a few dimples in it, a few small bb metal balls and was enclosed with a see through plastic cover/lid. The object of the game was to hold the toy in your hand then tilt it to get the balls to roll into the dimples. It still seems to me that a level usable by the blind can be made using this principle, and would be as accurate as the modern day electronic levels and a hell of a lot cheaper. The level you talk about sounds like it works on this principle. If we stretched your level out to 4 feet and added 3 or four more balls, do you think we would have a level that would be accurate and dependable for use for the blind handyman? - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 11:20 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice Hi Max, Does the beep only happen when the level is exactly level or is there a range perhaps of changing tone or volume as dead level is approached? I have never seen one but I am a little curious. I have a ball/channel device I bought from RNIB when I was a student over there in the late '60s only about 8 inches long and probably a little too accurate but it does work pretty well for laying block or bricks. I would really like a light weight string level though for landscaping. I think Dan Rossie has a water level which might be made to serve for that as well. When laying out a masonry wall a tight masonry string line is a valuable tool but getting one right is a challenge and you want to be able to verify it occasionally. - Original Message - From: Max Robinson To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 4:22 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice If you walk into Sears and ask for an audible level they won't know what you are talking about. They have two digital levels that read out the angle on an LCD. There is a button you can push that turns on a beeper. It beeps at zero and 90 degrees. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Larry Stansifer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 2:19 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice Hi art, About the best recommendation I can make is the Stabila. The down side is the damn things are a bit pricey. The other thing is they are not very loud so if you are working in a noisy environment or like me your hearing is shot it may be a problem. They provide you with two accurate readings, level and vertical. I hear tell there is a way to program a specific angle into the unit so that it will beep at some pre determined setting but I haven't figured that one out yet. TNX Larry -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 10:24 AM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I need some level advice Hello, I have been a long time lurker, and have enjoyed many of the adventures that folks have had on this list! Thanks for many good ideas and laughs! I am undertaking a masonry project in the next few days, and need to use a level to get things right. Most times this wouldn't be a problem, as my wife is sighted, and can usually be enticed to help out. This time I will be going it alone, and didn't think it was going to be so difficult to find an audible level. I am totally blind, and knew that some of the home centers sold one a year or two ago. Surprise! They don't carry them anymore! I have googled and found a couple that would fit the bill, and read through the archives on this list (see message below) and read about a couple here that I was considering. Does anyone have a recommendation? I know that Sears had one a while ago, but they don't seem to carry it anymore either. I need to obtain it in the next few days, and would like to keep the cost down if possible. Thanks for your help and advice! Art [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Send any questions
Re: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket
What is Neatsfoot oil? Courtesy of Wikipede and lostapiarist « on: May 15, 2008, 09:03:34 AM » Neatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the feet (but not the hooves) and shin bones of cattle. It remains liquid down to a low temperature, and is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medically as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions. Neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature because the fat in animals' legs generally has a lower melting point than the body fat. This occurs because the legs and feet of such animals are adapted to tolerate and maintain much lower temperatures than those of the body core, using countercurrent heat exchange between arterial and venous blood. Because of this, neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature and so can easily soak into leather. Currently, neatsfoot oil is sometimes made from lard.[1] It is sold as neatsfoot oil in pure form, or neatsfoot oil compound, if mineral oil is added. Some brands have been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and drying oil[2]. Pure neatsfoot oil comes in two forms: regular and cold tested. In the latter, the oil is filtered at 0 to -4°C to remove solid components, as they can lead to 'spewing' (a whitish crystalline deposit or bloom resulting from fat migration).[3] 'Neat' in the oil's name comes from an old term for cattle, and even today the best quality neatsfoot oil still comes from the legs of calves and with no mineral oil added. Prime neatsfoot oil or neatsfoot oil compound are terms used for a blend of pure neatsfoot oil and non-organic oils, generally mineral oil. Although the Prime is marketed as the saddlemaker's choice, many saddle makers actually recommend pure neatsfoot oil for leather goods, particularly saddles. Pure neatsfoot oil has superior softening and preservative properties, the addition of mineral oils often leads to more rapid decay of stitching and speeds breakdown of any adhesive materials that may have been used. Neatsfoot oil, like other leather dressings, should not be used on important historical objects, as it will oxidize with time, and embrittle the leather even more.[4] It also may leave an oily residue that can attract dust. On newer leather, it will inevitably darken the leather, even after a single application, and thus is not a desirable product to use when maintaining a lighter shade is desired. However, for routine use on working equipment, particularly in dry climates, it is a powerful softening and conditioning agent that few modern synthetic alternatives can replace. - Original Message - From: Dale Leavens To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 18:28 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket What on earth is a neat? How does a neat feel about sacrificing it's feet for oil and how does it manage without it's feet? - Original Message - From: William Stephan To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 6:08 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket I use something similar to this, (could even be th3e same brand), for dispatch cases and the like, and it really does a good job. You just squirt some in your hand, work it into the leather and whipe and buff with a clean rag. It actually leaves a little shine as well as cleans your leather. Neatsfoot oil is very good for keeping leather tack supple in very cold weather, but it does often cause color changes, so I'd be careful using it on a jacket. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trouble Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 07:48 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket Mink oil is good for boots, but the leather on a jacket is softer and needs a more milder wash. i got the lotion your talking about and it will do a good job. you won't be leave how much dirt will come out. At 05:05 PM 10/4/2008, you wrote: I read two different claims last night. SOme places say to use mink oil, but Wilson's leather goods recommends something called leather lotion and discourages the use of things like mink oil. SO I figure I'll take it into them and see what they say. - Original Message - From: Ron Yearns To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@ mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 3:50 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] oiling a leather jacket Neatsfoot oil or some use mink oil. Let a sighted person try it on a inside area. Don't get overzealous in applying. If the leather has been dyed it still might not absorb real evenly. Ron - Original Message - From: Robert Riddle To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fireplace Safety: Avoiding the Dangers ofCreosote Buildup
I have been burning wood since the mid 60's. My chimney for my fireplace is made of brick with a 12 inch by 12 inch tile liner. I don't burn my fireplace any longer for the simple fact that a fireplace is a waste of fire wood. That is when you burn wood in a fireplace, it sucks all the heat out of your house and right up the chimney. Besides that the only place that is warm in your house is right in front of the fire, near the hearth... Which actually , now that I think of it wasn't a bad thing when I was younger (OOh the days of women, wine and roses.) but I digress. I still burn wood, but now I burn it in a air tight wood furnace located in my basement. The furnace has a plenum with heat runs running to all the rooms in the house. It also has two cold air returns (one near the front door and one near the back door. This setup is ideal, the entire house is toasty as can be. My house is a two story home. The chimney for the wood furnace in my basement exits the center of my roof which is a pyramid type roof and steep...Way too much of a pitch for me to climb on now a days. My fireplace chimney runs up the back wall of my house and continues up higher than the peak of my main roof This chimney had to clear the peak of my main roof to prevent down drafts when burning the fireplace. Back in my younger days I used to climb up on the roof and then place a step ladder against the fireplace chimney, remove the cap and run a chimney brush down the chimney to clean it. After I installed the wood/coal furnace, I knew I had to come up with a way to clean my chimney without having to climb up onto the roof. Sure, I could have just hired a chimney sweep to do it...but then again, no I couldn't, since I won't hire anyone to do things that I can do for myself Here is what I came up with. I had a sewer cleaning snake that is 1 inch wide, about 1/4 inch thick, and 50 feet long. I removed the cutting head from the snake and attached a 3/8 inch piece of pipe about 8 inches long and threaded on one end to the snake by drilling and bolting. I then screwed on a 3/8 inch coupler to the threaded end of the pipe. I now can screw my chimney cleaning brush into the coupling. Now I just open the clean out door on my chimney in the basement and run the brush that is attached to the snake up the chimney and back down a half dozen times to clean the chimney. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 14:07 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fireplace Safety: Avoiding the Dangers ofCreosote Buildup great posting Ray about chimneys. I would be interested to read here how those burning wood are taking care of their chimneys. I do not have a wood stove or fireplace in this house but have burned wood many times in a previous home. due to the highth of the chimney we had a relative or hired someone to clean the chimney. I found it interesting when we hired a professional chimney sweep that he did it all from inside and made no mess at all but he sure did get a lot of crap out of that old brick chimney. again thanks for the very interesting post Ray. Lee On Wed, Oct 01, 2008 at 06:53:51PM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote: Fuel oil and natural gas prices have soared, and with them so has the popularity of alternative fuels. Wood stove, pellet stove and fireplace use are all on the rise, and with each of these comes a hidden danger that every dedicated wood burner needs to keep in mind: Burning wood creates creosote, and if left untreated creosote can cause fires. The Skinny on Creosote When wood fire burns, it releases unburned gases. These unburned gases condensate on the walls of the chimney liner or flue tile and form a tarry or glazed substance called creosote. Creosote becomes dangerous when allowed to accumulate in the chimney, where it becomes a fuel source for a potential chimney fire. Creosote buildup can be minimized by burning small hot fires and using dry, well seasoned wood, but the reality is the formation of creosote from burning wood cannot be avoided. The Dangers of Creosote Buildup A chimney fire will occur when built-up creosote deposits are ignited by extreme heat from the fireplace. For this to occur, the creosote must be subjected to high temperatures-temperatures in excess of 1,000 degrees or so. Although 1,000-plus degrees may seem a bit extreme, the following quote from the March 1990 Home Hearth Magazine puts this all in good perspective: Creosote buildup, by itself or in combination with other factors, was involved in 92 percent of chimney fires reported in a study commissioned by the Wood Heating Alliance. A buildup of as little as 1/8 to 1/4 inch of creosote is sufficient to create a fire hazard. First Key to Safety is Cleaning Eventually,
Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing 1998 corolla indicator light
Hi Lenny, Don't forget to check for a blown fuse on the dome light circuit. Here is what I googled up on the light in the console, hope it helps. How do you replace the light on the automatic gear shift of a 1996 Toyota Corolla? In: Toyota Corolla [ Edit] [ Edit] Answer This was on my 1998 Corolla, but the procedure should be the same. You must remove the center console to get at the burned out bulb. This can be tricky because Toyota doesn't make it easy to access this area. First, open up the storage compartment in the console. Remove the little square of carpet and you will find two bolts. Removing them. Next, there is one screw on each side of the console, near the base. Remove these. Carefully remove the console. Pull rearward and lift the back up and ease it over the emergency brake handle. Once the console is removed, you will be able to see the back of the shifter housing. You will see a wire running up to the underside of the shifter console. Follow this wire until you find the black socket holding the bulb. By turning this a quarter to a half turn counter-clockwise, the socket should pull down and the bulb can be pulled out. The bulb is bayonet-style---it just plugs in and pulls out. If you have trouble reaching in with your fingers, try using a small wrench to turn the socket. Alternatively, you can very carefully use a pair of needlenose pliers to turn the bulb socket. The hardest part is trying to get the bulb socket to seat back into the shifter console. If this doesn't work, let me know and I will try to guide you through another process. Answer I just replaced the light bulb on the automatic gear shift of my 1997 Toyoto Corolla. I believe 1993-1997 Corollas are very similar. 1. Lift the little carpet in the console rear to the automatic gear shift. Pry with a small flat screwdriver will do the job. 2. Remove the three Philips head screws. 3. Remove one Philips head screws on each side of the rear console, they are located at the bottom front of the rear console panel. You may have to move the driver and passenger seat back to see the screws. 4. Grab the back of the rear console and gently wiggle, pull backward and lift upward. Pull the hand brake so it is easier to remove the loosened rear console panel. 5. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the rectangular 'cushion' around the automatic gear shift. Gently pry at various spot and the rectangular 'cushion' will come off easily. 6. Now you are just one more plastic cover away from the burned bulb. The plastic cover that has those 'P'ark, 'R'everse, 'D'rive letters is held in place by four snap on latches. Use a small flat head screwdriver and gently push the black latches inward in a downward motion, once the screwdriver head gets inside the grey latch holder it will free the black latch. Work on each of the four latches in turn. 7. Wiggle the plastic cover until it is completely loosened from the four latches. Gently lift the plastic cover up. The automatic gear shift will stop the plastic from being lifted out completely. You still have enough room to work with. You will see the little burned bulb directly below those 'P'ark, 'R'everse, 'D'rive letters. Gently pull the bulb out. I got my replacement bulb at Canadian Tire, Motomaster instrument replacement bulb 194LL (clear, long lasting, 2 bulbs for $2.99Cdn). It is a push-on bulb. 8. Test the bulb by starting your car and dash lights. 9. Snap back the plastic 'P'ark, 'D'rive cover. Put back the rear console panel and finally the rectangular 'cushion' around the automatic gear shift. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 19:26 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] changing 1998 corolla indicator light My daughter has a 1998 corolla. The shift indicator light is burned out. Anyone have any idea how to change it? I can not locate any screws on the console. There is a snap piece of plastic around the shift handle but when it is removed there is nothing exposed that will give me access. We also need to replace the dome light. It does not come on when any door is opened. I tried to clean the switch at the light and it did not help. When you remove the screw holding the switch handle in there is a very small ball bearing that makes contact activating a steady on light, no light or door activation. I think that the only way to fix it is to replace. Tomorrow I will call some auto grave yards a new oem part I suspect will be very expensive. I located an after market led light for $40. Just not sure how well it will fit. Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources for the blind. http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ Lenny Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link
[BlindHandyMan] Nail Sizes
A 2penny nail's length is 1 inch A 3 penny nail's length is 1 1/4 inch A 4 penny nail's length is 1 1/2 inch A 5penny nail's length is 1 3/4 inch A 6 penny nail's length is 2 inches A 7 penny nail's length is 2 1/4 inches A 8 penny nail's length is 2 1/2 inches A 9penny nail's length is 2 3/4 inches A 10penny nail's length is 3 inches A 12 penny nail's length is 3 1/4 inches A 16 penny nail's length is 3 1/2 inches A 20 penny nail's length is 4 inches A 30 penny nail's length is 4 1/2 inches A 40 penny nail's length is 5 inches A 50 penny nail's length is 5 1/2 inches A 60 penny nail's length is 6 inches
Re: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster
I agree with Lary. One thing to remember is don't over do it!. That is, you only need a couple of drops of oil to do the job. If you are getting staining on your wood, you are over oiling or perhaps the staining isn't oil from the oiling of the tool and rather moisture passing through from your compresser tank. This I find happens more often from using air tools when the weather is humid. - Original Message - From: Larry Stansifer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 17:41 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster For what it's worth, I have a Bostich pneumatic staple gun and a Snap-on air-hammer and I use the PB-blaster in both of them. The stapler is about 7 years old and the air-hammer is about 25 years old. You can also purchase 16-OZ bottles of traditional air-tool oil from any of the tool guys. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 3:14 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster I believe so. I also must replace the very small bottle that came with my nailers. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:47 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster So, is there an oil specifically intended for pneumatic nailers? I got a little bottle of oil with my nailer, but it didn't last long. Bill Stephan Kansas Citty MO Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Phone: (816)803-2469 - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 3:38 pm Subject: [BlindHandyMan] pb-blaster I found the following information on the manufacturer's web site. It is only for rotary type air tools. I suspect it is fantastic for Larry's shop. Sure wish it could be used on my pneumatic guns. Blaster's Air Tool Conditioner is designed restore and prolongs air tool life by cleaning, coating and lubricating tools. ATC will break loose deposits that accumulate over time in air tools. This lubricant formulation inhibits rust. RPMS return to peak efficiencies. ATC is environmentally safe and contains no fluorocarbon. Cleaner, Conditioner Lubricant Allows calcium, vanish sludge (built up on veins of tool) to be emulsified (liquefied) exhausted from impact wrenches, drills, grinders, polishers Sanders. a.. Instantly restores (near factory) RPM torque capacity b.. Contains fish-eye eliminator c.. Freeze protection down to -25F Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous with many resources. http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ Lenny Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op= view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links __ NOD32 3389 (20080826) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus
Re: [BlindHandyMan] power nailer help.
Hi, I came in late on this post, so if this has already been mentioned, disregard. Try a dental pick. You can get a set at your local auto parts store. The set has a variety of curves to the end of the picks. - Original Message - From: cheetah To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 13:46 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] power nailer help. hi dan thats the best idea i got yet. thanks will have to think on that. jim At 10:02 AM 8/19/2008, you wrote: TO get that 22 brass out of the nail gun, how about the super glue deal? Glue something to the casing and pull. Might be difficult to get something in there, and you would have to be damn careful not to get glue anywhere where it shouldn't be. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail:mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu[EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel:(412) 268-9081 No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.5/1620 - Release Date: 8/19/2008 6:04 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys
I agree with Lary and will add this; Check that all your lug nuts are tightened to the proper torque. I had some young kid working at the garage where I get mine inspected, over tighten the lug nuts and had a similar vibration. One other thing, check to make sure they tightened the caliper . A loose caliper could cause a chatter when the brakes are applied. - Original Message - From: Larry Stansifer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 19:00 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys Lenny, Did they turn the rotors when you had the brakes done the last time? In my unhumble professional opinion not turning or replacing rotors when doing pads is akin to not using toilet paper. If they were turned once you can probably plan on replacing them. There is a minimum thickness that brake rotors can be machined to, I think it is 10MM. Warped or thin rotors is probably the vibration she is feeling. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 4:44 PM To: handyman-blind Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys We have a 2003 grand caravan sport all wheel drive. Two weeks ago for inspection it needed breaks at the same time I upgraded the break fluid to dot 5.1 and also had the tires rotated. Now about 45 mph when Karen applies the break she can feel a chatter or vibration. When she first said it was shaking at that speed I thought she lost a balancing weight. I now suspect rotors. Is there anything that can cause a rotor go bad after about two weeks after installing new breaks? The vehicle has about 40,000 miles and the rotors were cut around 25,000 miles. Got to get this thing fixed quickly, next week we are taking my grandson to Canada to see the falls. Lenny Send any questions regarding list management to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links -- BEGIN-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS -- Teach InfoWest Spam Trap if this mail (ID 200308578) is spam: Spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=200308578m=148e77daecd3c=s Not spam: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=200308578m=148e77daecd3c=n Forget vote: https://spamtrap.infowest.com/canit/b.php?i=200308578m=148e77daecd3c=f REMEMBER: Never give out your account information, password, or other personal information over e-mail. -- END-ANTISPAM-VOTING-LINKS [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing?
This is a method of restoring your mortor joints. The old loose mortor is removed and fresh mortor is tucked back in place with a (you guessed it) a tucking tool. Then the joint is smoothed off with a mortor joint tool to give it a nice smooth rounded appearance. - Original Message - From: Claudia To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 02:44 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Tuck Pointing? Hello, What is tuck pointing? We're being told that this has to be done to our basement because there are cracks along the walls, and water is seeping in. If we don't do this, the house or foundation could begin to sink in? Is this correct? Claudia Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues. [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] fixing a freezer compressor
Replacing a compressor is costly, since you would have to hire it done (more than likely) because of rechartging the system. Is this freezer a self defrosting type? If so, your problem could be with the timer and not actually the compressor. If it is a self defrosting model, locate the timer, could be behind the removable grill at the bottom of the unit near the floor in the front. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the timer and slowly turn it clockwise. If the compressor starts, most likely replacing the timer will solve your problem. - Original Message - From: Robert Riddle To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 14:22 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] fixing a freezer compressor Ok, there's not much to a freezer, a pump compressor and thermostat, correct? Our freezer, the one I wrote here about earlier, is broken, and I think it's the compressor because the light stays on but the motor doesn't, and of course everything thawed out. So, this being a Kenmore freezer, how much would a compressor cost and what's generally needed to instal it? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Changing a gas tank/F150
Hi, I installed a new gas tank on a 2000 F150 and forgot to put the clips back on the lines that attach to the fuel pump. I hate like hell to have to drop the tank to attach these two clips, but a man has to do what a man has to do! I had one hell of a time getting the strap/ hanger bolts to start and really hope I don't have to drop the tank again, the bolts were a B to get started in the hanger strap. As you know, the lines to the fuel filter as well as to the fuel pump on a 2000 F150 are the quick Thanks disconnect type. Will these suckers leak if the clip is not installed?
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Changing a gas tank/F150
That is what I thought. I could kick myself for forgetting to double check that everything was hooked back up! Actually, I did double check but didn't realize that I forgot to put the clips back on untill I went to put the new filter on and saw the clips. Oh well, it's back underneath the SOB again tomorrow! - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 17:41 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Changing a gas tank/F150 I would think they could disconnect when under pressure. - Original Message - From: NLG To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 5:11 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Changing a gas tank/F150 Hi, I installed a new gas tank on a 2000 F150 and forgot to put the clips back on the lines that attach to the fuel pump. I hate like hell to have to drop the tank to attach these two clips, but a man has to do what a man has to do! I had one hell of a time getting the strap/ hanger bolts to start and really hope I don't have to drop the tank again, the bolts were a B to get started in the hanger strap. As you know, the lines to the fuel filter as well as to the fuel pump on a 2000 F150 are the quick Thanks disconnect type. Will these suckers leak if the clip is not installed? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] How is your front end?
Hard to tell without being there. Could be a tie rod end is worn out. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: Blind Handyman Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 11:12 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How is your front end? Imagine if you would that you are riding in a 2000 Dodge sport six medium size pickup truck and you hit a decent size bump in the road. all of a sudden your front end is all overy the place. seemingly rolling from side to side until you get settled back down. Maybe this truck has been mis used as a four wheel drive in a farmers field when it is only a two wheel drive. any opinions as to why this front end would feel like it is all over the place would be appreciated. It is my kids truck and I do not think it is safe out on the road. just my opinion. Lee -- Montana: Where forty-three below keeps out the riff-raff. Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] PORTIBLE TABLE SAWS
To cut a 4x4 in one pass, you will need to forget the 10 inch saws and look at the 12 inch models. - Original Message - From: Larry Stansifer To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 07:28 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PORTIBLE TABLE SAWS Hi folks, From time-to-time you all have made reference to a portable, contractors, or folding table saw. What would be your recommendation? Keep in mind it will probably get used three times a year so I am not looking for some $1000.00 wazoo saw that will do everything but drive nails. I understand that they are not all created equally and I think I want one that would handle a 4X4 in one pass and comes equipped with a usable miter gage and anything else you guys can think of. As far as usage goes, it would be general purpose minor repair and remedial construction. BTW, It has to be small enough to hide when the car guys come around. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Cab Corners
I have been trying to locate (with no luck) after market cab corners for a 2000 F150, regular cab. Perhaps the after-market doesn't make them yet. Any of you guys/gals know a place to buy them? Thanks :)
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Replacing a roof
Here is an article I saved, perhaps it will help. Getting Started The first step in a roof project is to check the weather report. Ideally, you don't want any showers heading your way for the next three days. However, as Mother Nature is known to be unpredictable, have a couple of tarps on hand in case of rain. If you're re-roofing, first nail down all loose shingles and replace any that are missing. Or, with a tear-off, make all the necessary repairs to the roof sheathing, underlayment, wood trim and flashing. The roof surface must be dry, cleaned and properly prepared before roofing. For more information on proper sheathing and flashing techniques, check out the variety of online roofing articles at www.extremehowto.com and www.apawood.org. Appropriately enough, shingling a roof starts at the roof edge with what is called a starter strip. At the lower end of a standard shingle are three tabs separated by slots about 3/8-inch wide. The starter strip prevents rainwater from flowing through these slots and onto the roofing underlayment. To create the starter strip, first cut off the tabs of the first shingle and discard them. Cut from the back side of the shingle when possible to avoid dulling the knife blade. Then cut 6 inches off the first starter-course shingle and apply the rest of it on the lower corner of the roof, with the cut edge overlapping the eaves and gutter apron. The shingle should overlap rakes and eaves by 1/2 inch if using a drip edge. If not using a drip edge, make the overhang 3/4 inch. Continue applying full-length starter-course shingles along the eaves. Shingle All the Way With the starter strip complete, you're ready for the first course. Apply a full shingle at the lower roof corner on top of the starter course. The tabs of the shingle should be flush with the edges of the starter course. This method seals the lower edge of the roof to help prevent the edge shingles from lifting in high winds. To fasten the shingles, apply four nails through the tabs just below the sealant line, 1 inch from each edge and just above each slot. In areas exposed to high winds, six nails can be used (two nails flanking the top of each slot). Use 11- or 12-guage corrosion-resistant roofing nails at least 1-inch long with at least 3/8-inch heads. Make sure the nails are driven straight, not overdriven or under-driven. Check your manufacturer's instructions for specific nailing requirements. In steep slope applications (over 21/12), asphalt roofing cement should be used in conjunction with nails. One inch of roofing cement should be applied beneath each corner of the tabs. However, working on a steep slope can be very dangerous and require special scaffolding; such projects are best left to the professionals. Once the first shingle is in place, snap a chalk line from the top of the shingle to the opposite edge of the roof. Then move to the first shingle of the second course. This helps align the shingles, and moving up rather than out means you don't have to journey across the roof with each successive shingle. Cut 6 inches off the first second-course shingle. Align the bottom edge of the shingle with the top of the tabs of the first shingle. Nail it in place. With those shingles in place, move to the third course. Cut 12 inches off the first third-course shingle. Align the bottom edge with the top of the slots in the second-course shingle, and nail it home. Continue progressing up the roof, nailing the first shingle of each course 6 inches narrower than the one beneath it (see diagram). After the sixth course, you will begin with another full shingle aligned with the edge of the roof. After you've worked up to the roof ridge, return to the lower edge of the roof. Butt a full-length shingle next to the first-course shingle and nail in place. Continue back up the roof, nailing a full-length shingle against each of the starting shingles that are already in place. Follow this shingling procedure to complete the field of the roof. All the shingles are full-length except the ones at the edge of the roof. At the edge of the roof, use a straight edge to cut the shingles to overlap the rake by no more than 3/4 inch. On hips and ridges, trim the shingles flush with the centerline. Hips, Ridges and Valleys Hips and ridges must be covered by 12-inch ridge caps. Some companies offer special ridge cap shingles. Check to see if they're available for the shingles you're installing. If not, then make the caps from regular 36-inch shingles cut into thirds, separated at the tabs. Cut the sealant ends of the tabs so they taper to about 10 inches. To install, snap a chalk line on each side of the ridge or hip, 6 inches from the center line. Start with the first cap at the end of the ridge opposite from the prevailing wind direction. Bend the cap over the ridge along the center line. Fasten with two nails on each cap, just above the sealing tab and 1 inch from
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plugging conduit.
You need ductseal compound. It comes in a block similar in size to a block of paraffin wax. It kinda has the texture of a wax seal for a toilet. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 15:10 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plugging conduit. A while back, I did some wire cleanup on my house. The installers had run TV cable, and phone lines all over the back and sides of the house. I pulled everything down, and ran a single line for each, down the back of the house, into the basement, and then fished them up through the walls so they weren't uglying up the outside of the house. Well, yesterday, I pulled the lines out and ran them through some PVC conduit, to protect them a bit better and give it a slightly cleaner look. The question is, what do I use to seal up the end of the PVC pipe to keep water from running down inside? I wanted to put a 180 degree bend at the top so that the open end would be pointing down, but being essentially a plumbing job, it guaranteed that I would not have enough pieces to actually do that. Being impatient, I just ended up with a 90 degree bend at the top. So, water could run down the wires and following them, drip down the inside of the conduit. Is there some kind of putty or something I can use to seal up the end around the wires? Can I just squeeze in a ton of silicon or is there something better? Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] business end of an air impact
I agree with Bob. I have a 1/2 inch pneumatic impact gun and the ball is missing also. I do the same thing, making sure the socket is on the nut before hitting the trigger. Once in a while it will fall off and roll across the garage floor but that is the kind of thing that builds vocabulary! - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 21:20 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] business end of an air impact I'd still use it. Most of them have a ring that you have to wiggle the socket over and I haven't seen one of them yet that stays in shape after a couple years. The worst that will happen is the socket will spin off. You can control that by not hitting the trigger until you have the socket over the nut or bolt. I have 2 3/8 drive guns and neither one holds the socket in place if I point it toward the ground. But I'm not spending a hundred plus while they still work good. Remember sockets are somewhat heavy and aren't designed to fly. If it spins off it won't go far. It will dance around on the floor but you're certainly not going to get hurt from it. Just wait for it to stop spinning and start over again... - Original Message - From: Robert j To: Blind Handyman Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 9:09 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] business end of an air impact All this talk reminds me that I have an air impact that I got free some time ago. I have not used it very often. It would be considered unsafe to use in its present condition but I take great care and I am aware of the problem and have not had a problem with it. Now here is the deal. The ball that is designed to stick out with a spring on the back side to hold the socket on, is no longer there. it is not worth having a shop repair it and probably not worth buying parts and trying to rebuild it myself. Does any one have any ideas short of making it another contribution to the scrap iron pile. Robert. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Coal Burning Stoker Stoves from Reading Stoves
Another company not too far from Hazleton that makes stoves is Harman Stove Company, located in Halifax Pa. I have examined a few of them and The stoves are well made. Harman won't sell directly to you though, you have to go through one of their dealers. - Original Message - From: Lenny McHugh To: handyman-blind Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 18:09 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Coal Burning Stoker Stoves from Reading Stoves Mark, Here is another local company. One thing that I would check out on every model is how the coal is fed into the stoker. Years ago a friend had a VE which are no longer manufactured. Anyway the feed was not set properly and the fire started burning back into the hopper. That is something I would talk to the sales people about. Here is the link for Reading stoves. http://www.readingstove.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas hell yes I got gas
Not sure if the coupler you are talking about is a union . If it is a union, it will have to hex ends on it so you can get wrenches on it to take it apart. If so, remove and replace it and the piece of pipe that goes to the ninety at the meter. If it is a coupler, sometimes called a collar, remove it and then replace it with a union and piece of pipe as I mentioned above. - Original Message - From: Shane Hecker To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 23:11 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gas hell yes I got gas In the back yard that is. Lets put it this way. When a totally blind person can see the gas leak, it's time to fix it. This one is about a half inch to an inch above the ground (on my side of course). Have no idea how long it's been leaking like that. Anyway, it was the gas technician from the city who came out and helped me find it. So here's what I want to do for the repair, but first some other information. I don't know who ran this line, but here's what they did. They have the standard 90 coming off the meter. The pipe goes down into the ground which is standard. But where the leak is and where the pipe broke off (after the gas technician tried getting it out) there is a coupling. That coupling is what came apart. Then, there is the piece on the other side which goes into the ground. My question is why wasn't a piece of pipe run all the way down? Why put the coupling there? For now, the technician put a rag on top of the pipe to keep moisture out of it. I should say stuffed then laid the rest on top. I plan to take that coupling and the remaining piece of pipe off. Ain't digging fun? Then, it's time for a trip to home depot for a measurement. Or, I could just cut the pipe (black pipe that is) myself. I've got the cutter to do it with along with a talking tape measure so it shouldn't be too bad. Threading isn't a problem either. The pipe is 1 inch. Then I plan to coat the pipe threads with plenty of the pipe dope. Then comes reassembly. Finally, a call to the city will be in order for them to come inspect it and hopefully turn the gas back on. One other thing, the gas technician tells me that if I'm replacing 5 feet or less I don't need a permit to do it, so lets hope it's less than 5 feet. Now for some questions. Is there anything I should be aware of when digging along the pipe? Is there anything else I might have missed? Any input is appreciated. Oh, and in case someone asks why don't you have a licensed plumber do it?, my answer is I don't want to pay a rediculous price for them to do it when I could do it myself for a fraction of that price. Shane [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber?
Where do you live? I ask because here in the United States, I can't believe that soldering any gas line would pass code. - Original Message - From: martin webster To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 15:52 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? Hi, The most accurate way of testing for leaks is with a water or digital manometer. At the gas meter and within a gas appliance there are small brass plugs which you use for perging the pipe work and appliance of gas. These are all so used to run pressure tests. you would undo one of these and attach your manometer and repressurize the line. Once the line or appliance is at it's required working pressure, *usually milly bars) you would then shut off the gas and watch for pressure drop. if there is a leak even a minnute leak, you will see the water drop down the scale on the manometer. My sighted girl friend checks the manometer for me. There are all so really good gas leak testers which are hand held and audible, and there's all so your nose. I have both manometer and gas leak tester which I can use to go round any joins I have soldered. Of course I have a nose too, but the manometer and tester are much more accurate, the tester being able to detect as litttle as 30 parts gas per one million parts of air which is the industry standard, the tester is of course variable and the manometer being able to measure pressure in milly bars, so both pieces of iquipment used in conjunction with one another is the way a gas fitter would do this. The manometer for testing a whole line or appliance, and the tester for finding any leaks. Tip, when replacing the brass test plugs use a little gas ceal. This is like a grease which gas fitters use, and it's all so good for insuring a good ceal on the rubber hose that attaches the manometer to the line you are testing. The test that Cy speaks about is known as the old match test and indeed is a reliable way of testing for small leaks, the danger with this test is you may get a build up of gas, and you can have a flash I do know of people who still use it though. The flash point for gas or a build up of gas in any given size room is five percent. Hope this helps. Martin Webster. From the UK. --- On Sat, 4/26/08, Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, April 26, 2008, 6:59 PM David, Now, I know you are going to think that I am a liar - but - one of the local plumbers tests for leaks by lighting a rolled newspaper and passes it around the new connection. The first time I saw him do this I was headed for some other place to be! I suppose that so long as there was not a build up of gas this is probably safe but, no thanks folks. The soap you spoke of is something like Dawn dishwashing soap. It will do a great job of bubbling up if there is a leak. Cy, the Ancient Okie _ From: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:blindhandyman@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of David Ferrin Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 7:12 AM To: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups. com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? How do you test for a gas leak my friend? I've watch plumbers rub soap on the connections and look for bubbles. David Ferrin www.jaws-users. -com - Original Message - From: martin webster HYPERLINK mailto:webstermart in%40yahoo. comwebstermarti [EMAIL PROTECTED] com To: HYPERLINK mailto:blindhandym an%40yahoogroups .comblindhandym [EMAIL PROTECTED] -com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 6:59 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? Hi, I think the answer to this question is yes and know. Plumbers work on many different sites and in many different locations in one week, and this you would have a problem with as a totally blind individual. I do much work for family and good friends, and the kind of work I do is plumb in washing machines, dish washers, move radiators, move sinks, install outside taps, and much more. You could certainly learn to master many of the techniques involved in plumbing even soldering won't be a problem if you feel you can cope with it. There are different levels of training for this profession and not all plumbers take them all, for instance if you want to train to install and maintain gas appliances such as fires, boilers, kilns and spa systems, then that's a different level of training again. I do all the maintance myself On my own combination theating and hot water system, and then pay to have it gas tested after woulds. I all so have a carbonmonoxcide detector installed near the appliance. Safety is Paramount
Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber?
Oh, now I see he said from the UK at the end of his message. My concern was...If a dwelling had soldered joints in the gas line and there was a fire in that dwelling, the heat would melt the solder and gas would be fueling the fire. - Original Message - From: David W Wood [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 18:29 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? He said in the U.K. Here, we have a standard and if the system is checked by a registered inspector, then it is deemed OK. David W Wood GUILDFORD PHYSIOTHERAPY AND SPORTS CLINIC MATTHEWS HOUSE 85 EPSOM ROAD GUILDFORD SURREY GU1 3PA T: 01483 575876 (APPOINTMENTS) 302691 (ALL OTHER INQUIRIES) E: [EMAIL PROTECTED] W: http://tinyurl.com/5wptcp DISCLAIMER The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and is intended solely for the individual/s to whom it is addressed. If you are not the intended recipient or have received this e-mail in error please delete it immediately. Any disclosure including but not withstanding reading copying or distribution of all or part of the information contained herein is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. Although this email and any attachments are believed to be free of any virus or any other defect which might affect any computer or system on which they are received and/or opened it is the responsibility of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free and no responsibility is accepted by The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic for any loss or damage arising in any way from receipt or use thereof. Any opinions or advice contained in this email are not necessarily those of The Guildford Physiotherapy and Sports Clinic or any individual or individuals working or acting on its behalf. All prices shown are in pounds sterling and exclude VAT, Delivery and Expense charges unless otherwise stated. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of NLG Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 11:23 PM To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? Where do you live? I ask because here in the United States, I can't believe that soldering any gas line would pass code. - Original Message - From: martin webster To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 15:52 Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? Hi, The most accurate way of testing for leaks is with a water or digital manometer. At the gas meter and within a gas appliance there are small brass plugs which you use for perging the pipe work and appliance of gas. These are all so used to run pressure tests. you would undo one of these and attach your manometer and repressurize the line. Once the line or appliance is at it's required working pressure, *usually milly bars) you would then shut off the gas and watch for pressure drop. if there is a leak even a minnute leak, you will see the water drop down the scale on the manometer. My sighted girl friend checks the manometer for me. There are all so really good gas leak testers which are hand held and audible, and there's all so your nose. I have both manometer and gas leak tester which I can use to go round any joins I have soldered. Of course I have a nose too, but the manometer and tester are much more accurate, the tester being able to detect as litttle as 30 parts gas per one million parts of air which is the industry standard, the tester is of course variable and the manometer being able to measure pressure in milly bars, so both pieces of iquipment used in conjunction with one another is the way a gas fitter would do this. The manometer for testing a whole line or appliance, and the tester for finding any leaks. Tip, when replacing the brass test plugs use a little gas ceal. This is like a grease which gas fitters use, and it's all so good for insuring a good ceal on the rubber hose that attaches the manometer to the line you are testing. The test that Cy speaks about is known as the old match test and indeed is a reliable way of testing for small leaks, the danger with this test is you may get a build up of gas, and you can have a flash I do know of people who still use it though. The flash point for gas or a build up of gas in any given size room is five percent. Hope this helps. Martin Webster. From the UK. --- On Sat, 4/26/08, Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Cy Selfridge [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] do you really want to be a plumber? To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, April 26, 2008, 6:59 PM David, Now, I know you are going to think that I am a liar - but - one of the local plumbers tests for leaks by lighting a rolled newspaper and passes it around the new connection. The first time I saw him do this I was headed for some
Re: [BlindHandyMan] True Bionic Eye
There's nothing to it...Use an eye bolt! - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 10:56 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] True Bionic Eye Yeah, mine is on the fritz. Does anyone know how to fix one of these bionic eyes? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: (412) 268-9081 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt
My neighbor had the same exact problem with a metal door and it coming open in a strong gust of wind. I took a look at it for him and found that the screws that hold the inside knob to the outside knob were slightly loose. I tightened the screws and the door latches and stays latched now. - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 13:10 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt No, Bob , there is only a standard lockset in the door handle. I am considering adding another locking device. when the door comes open is always during a hard wind coming in from the West. this is a Stanley 9 lite steel door installed maybe around 1986 or 7 with no other problems. Lee On Sun, Apr 13, 2008 at 10:48:25PM -0400, Bob Kennedy wrote: I would be more concerned with the squareness of the door frame. If the lock doesn't work and nothing has changed but the house settling, the first thing I'd want to check would be if the latch is going into the mortise correctly. If the house settles the opening might be higher or lower than where the latch is touching. If that is still lining up but you can push the door open check the clearance between the door and the jam. The latch can only reach so far and if you can push the door open this may be the problem. Now if you are saying you can set the dead bolt and can still push the door open I'd check the clearance between door and jam again. Also check that the dead bolt is working correctly by turning the key and then the lever and watching that the bolt is coming all the way out. When you have turned the key or lever until it stops. At that point push on the dead bolt and see if it goes back in the door or does it not move at all? If it goes back in the door you need a new dead bolt. If it doesn't move at all but you can push the door open while the bolt is out, I would have to think the door had gotten too wide and the problem is with the door frame, not the dead bolt. Good luck - Original Message - From: Lee A. Stone To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 1:40 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Selecting the right deadbolt n My question would be on this subject matter. is the length of the actual bolt that goes back in the door fram the same length? I ask because our house seems to settle from time to time and the standard lock doesn't work as the door can swing open. Lee -- Draft beer, not people. Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] -- Honk if you are against noise pollution! Do you Jabber? I do. My JID is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Spot Welding
I need to replace both rocker panels and both cab corners on a 2000 F150. Is there a spot welder that you place the electrode in the spot to be tacked and then you just press a button to make the weld? Is anyone here successfully spot welding auto body panels? What make/model spot welder are you using? Thanks :)
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Flat tire on riding mower.
I have done this for years. In some cases, it was the only way I could get 10 ply tires to seal the bead. - Original Message - From: Bob Kennedy To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 20:54 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Flat tire on riding mower. The band in tire shops actually has a valve on the end and lets you inflate the band to tighten it up. When I was running a marina years back there was a tire shop on the other side of the building. I learned a trick from the guys there that I still use from time to time. This is a take it or leave it tip. I'm not going to debate the issue with anyone. Take a can of starting fluid, give about a 1 to no more than 2 second blast into the tire. Then while applying air into the tire valve, take one of those long stem lighters like you use to light the grill. The fire will ignite the ether and the small explosion will most definitely seat the bead of the tire... Now if you get the neck of the lighter inside the bead, you won't have time to get it out once the ether lights. I mean to tell ya, it seats the bead with authority. Before anyone writes in and says the tire can catch fire and so on, just save that thought. There is no supply of oxygen to keep a fire going inside the tire. If there is, you have a real problem and will need a new tire anyway. - Original Message - From: Robert j To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 9:16 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Flat tire on riding mower. I have had my share of these and what I find works great is to take the wheel off of the mower and then with the tire in the upwrite position bounce it off the floor and rotate the tire as you do this. this will tend to snap the bead outward with every bounce so if you turn the tire a few inches every time and do this prossess for a couple of rotations you should be good to go. This has never failed to work for me. Although the way that max did it is very reliable too. If I am not mistaken tire places actually have a band that is designed just for that task. While we are on the topic be very carefull about extreme over inflation. I have heard my share of horrer stories. My local mechanic in town here had a friend of his get killed by a truck tire. I think it was actually the rim that got him. It was a large truck tire and it had a split rim. I don't know if they even make them any more. Don't be afraid of airing up your tires but keep within the normal range for the tire that you are airing up. I myself tend to go over the recommendation but only by about 2 pounds. Which is still wel within the maximum. My tires I think recamend about 35 LBS but the maximum states some where around 5 LBS. -Original Message- From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Max Robinson Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 7:36 PM To: Blind Handyman Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Flat tire on riding mower. Hi All. Here's a story that may help someone else who finds themselves in the same position some day. This spring, just a few days ago, when we got the riding lawn mower out of its house we found that one of the tires was flat. It had separated from the rim. I thought that lifting it off the ground would allow it to reengage to the rim so I could inflate it with my air compressor. Sue took the compressor hose to the hardware store to get the necessary adaptor to fit a valve stem. Then I cut a piece of scrap 2 by 4 just long enough to hold the wheel, it was a front one, off the carport when placed under the axel. I used an 8 foot 2 by 4 to leaver up the front end while Sue placed the block under the axel. The tire did not pop back into place. We fiddled with it for a while and then decided that was too dangerous so I removed the wheel. We tried several ways of pushing on it but couldn't get it to seal well enough to take air. Then we both had the same thought at the same time. We tied a length of rope around the circumference of the tire, right in the middle. We put a screwdriver through the knot and began to twist. This compression caused the walls of the tire to be forced outward and they finally made a seal good enough to get a few pounds of pressure in the tire. Then we removed the tourniquet and finished inflating to the recommended 15 pounds. Checking the other three tires revield anywhere from 3 to 5 pounds of pressure. We pumped them all up to 15. Before this year we didn't own an air compressor so we couldn't have aired up the tires even if we had thought of it. From now on, checking the tire pressure will be a part of spring maintenance for the riding mower. Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:max%40maxsmusicplace.com Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site:
Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Paslode Nailer
I have a Passlode also. No, the gas doesn't leak out but I have found that the gas , if old doesn't work properly. So, don't buy more gas containers than you are going to use up in a year or so. - Original Message - From: cheetah To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 18:40 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Paslode Nailer hi barry good for you. i have one question about that tool. which you will be able to answer say in 4 months or so. does the gas leak out over time like it does in say a c o2 pelit gun? just wondering. jim At 06:12 PM 3/29/2008, you wrote: Howdy Blind Handy People, I have a new, as in just purchased about an hour ago, Paslode 18-gauge cordless brad nailer! Hah! My scores on the man-scale have just risen another whole standard deviation above the mean! It works off a battery and a gas charge. The battery will last approx 4000 hits, and the gas canister will go for approx 1200 hits. It will handle brads from five-eights inch long, on up to two inches. I bought it because I have a little project that was going to be a pain if I had to manually nail some finishing brads to hold a couple of 6-foot lengths of one-by 3 clear finishing pine in place.Now, the only problem I have is not having enough finishing work around the house to use it more. The only downside to this little 4.9 pound beauty of a tool is that my wife states she won't stay in the same room with me while I'm shooting. Ah well, life is full of little sacrifices. --Barry No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1348 - Release Date: 3/28/2008 10:58 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Rust From Stainless Steel?
I am positive that it is stainless steel. The idea that a magnet won't stick to stainless steel is misleading since there are different types of stainless steel and a magnet will stick to some types and not to others. The stove I am speaking of is down at our Lions club. It was not rusty when it was donated to us, however, having so many different cooks using it, I think someone meaning well but not knowing how to clean it, used steel wool and the fibers from the steel wool imbedded themselves into the grain and pores of the stainless steel grill and this is what caused the rusting. I see a lot of products on the net that claim remarkable results for handling a problem like this however, before I try some of them, I thought maybe someone here has used something they could recommend. Thanks for your response :) - Original Message - From: Brice Mijares To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 07:47 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Rust From Stainless Steel? Are you positive it's stainless steel? First , take a magnet and see if it sticks. Stainless steel isn't suppose to rust. If you have a stainless stove or refrigerator, your suppose to clean it with a stainless steel cleaner. We polish ours with WD-40. When polishing it, you follow the grain. I didn't know they made the grills out of stainless steel. Our grill is made out of cast iron. The stove top is some type of enamel, and the rest of the facing is stainless steel. - Original Message - From: NLG [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 5:13 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Rust From Stainless Steel? We have a Vulcan commercial range that appears to have been improperly cleaned with an S O S or some similar scrub pad. The stainless steel grill is pretty rusty, the rust actually (I believe) caused by the particles from the scrub pad being imbedded in the pores of the stainless steel. Has anyone delt with a similar problem? If so, what method or product did you use to get rid of the rust? Thanks :) To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[BlindHandyMan] Removing Rust From Stainless Steel?
We have a Vulcan commercial range that appears to have been improperly cleaned with an S O S or some similar scrub pad. The stainless steel grill is pretty rusty, the rust actually (I believe) caused by the particles from the scrub pad being imbedded in the pores of the stainless steel. Has anyone delt with a similar problem? If so, what method or product did you use to get rid of the rust? Thanks :)
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Brainstorming Design for Computer Desk
Betsy, you say your CPU is on the floor. I often thought of having mine on the floor but mine has the CD drives built in the case. Just curious...are your's external? Or doesn't it seem to be a bother accessing the drives I guess maybe it might depend on where on the floor your CPU is located...Tell me more about your setup.? - Original Message - From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 11:33 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Brainstorming Design for Computer Desk Aloha Bill, The three things I don't have at my desk that I wish I did are a place the get the CPU off the floor, some really good device that would allow me to easily roll this monster out from the wall for cleaning the floor, and a nice neat way to harness all this spaghetti wiring. . I have an L shaped desk that would be 9 feet long if it were straight along the wall. This doesn't tell you how to create this, but it gives you a couple of things to consider. I have been looking for the perfect desk for about 30 years, grin. Betsy At 04:51 AM 1/23/2008, you wrote: Hi all you handy men (and gals), I'm posting here because I'm planning on building a computer desk and would appreciate any design features that you might think would be neat, clever, necessary and/or maximally functional. For example, I'd like this desk to have the following features: - L shaped to fit snugly in a corner of my basement - convenient to assemble/disassemble (just in case I move) - slide-out keyboard tray at the angle of the L - drawers to store paper, software, storage media, folders, file folders, etc. - peripheral shelves for printer, scanner, modem, router (would especially appreciate suggestions on this) Anyway, I suspect you get the idea. This would be a first time wood working project so I'd likewise appreciate advice on techniques for constructing drawers, shelves, centering drawer handles and anything you might think would be helpful for a totally blind maybe-not-so-handy guy to think about then taking on such a project. And here's a list of the tools I have at my disposal: - router with table and various bits - small portable ½ chuck drill press - bench top table saw - electric miter saw - small electric belt sander - the dowel joining tool discussed on this list last summer I have a fairly large heated garage where I'd build this desk and although I have used the above tools for various maintenance and repair I've never taken on building a piece of furniture before. I'm doing this because I'm somewhat bored and need a computer desk so I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone so to speak. I'd appreciate any suggestions no matter how technical or not so technical. Thanks! Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Nothing is more admirable than the fortitude with which millionaires tolerate the disadvantages of their wealth. - Rex Stout To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
