Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question
At this point before I would buy new gages I would split the dash harness between the cluster plug and fuse box and check for melted or shorted wires. Also I would recheck all grounds to cluster and maybe run a direct ground from the battery to the cluster, straight wire. With the sending unit plugs disconnected and then shorted to ground you should have some type of movement in the gage. If there were a short or open in the harness nothing would change by removing the plugs from the senders. Leo - Original Message - From: rml...@comcast.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 12:49 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question I have voltage at my guages, and I have voltage on the lines to my sending units ie. temp. and fuel. I disconnected the plug in the trunk and checked for voltage which tested ok. However when I unplugged it my guage didn't respond by going to full. Iam thinking maby I need new guages. I did the same with the temp. I checked for voltage by disconnecting the line at the temp. sending unit and got a voltage reading. However, the guage didn't respond to being disconnected or grounded. Do yall think maby I need new guages.Thanks to you all for all your help. - Original Message - From: 327mal...@gmail.com To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Sunday, February 7, 2010 10:37:50 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question I don't know if this will help you but give it a look. The Chevelle Engineer http://chevelleengineer.home.comcast.net/~chevelleengineer/fuelgage.htm - Original Message - From: rml...@comcast.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 7:53 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question Jim I appriciate your help. It seems to me Iam being told 2 different things here. Leo say's there should be no power at pins 10 and 11 and it sounds to me like your telling me there should be power at those pins. I dont understand the principles of operation here. I dont understand how they work.I hope someone here can explain to me exactly how it works. Does 12 volts go through the guage and the sending units add resistance to ground. Thanks every body for your help here. I just wanna get my guages working. - Original Message - From: "Jim Thompson" jimthompso...@gmail.com To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, February 2, 2010 7:10:29 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question I will suggest again that ground is critical. Your fuel sending unit should have its own ground wire. The temp sending unit is hot, internally the switch closes to ground. With the key to “on” both should be hot. Your fuse box should have one fuse marked “gauges” if it is hot on both sides. Then it is a ground issue or short in the gauge harness. From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of rml...@comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 4:25 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question Does anyone know where the voltage for the fuel and temp. guages is fed from. I have voltage to everything except these two guages. I unplugged the 12 pin connector that plugs into the pcb and checked for voltage there. everything is hot with the exception of temp and fuel. all my fuses are good. Any ideas.Thanks, Bob - Original Message - From: dhoesc...@granitecityperformance.com To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 10:03:58 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question I would suggest disconnecting the tan fuel sender feed wire at the fuel tank. Turn the key to RUN position and wait a few moments (some gauges are slow) with the tan wire disconnected the fuel gauge should read past full. Then ground the tan wire anywhere to the body and the gauge should read empty. If you get no response then you have a bad gauge or a wiring problem. -Original Message- From: "Tom Rightler" Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 20:47 To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question If you want to check the gauges, send 12 volts directly to them and see if the needle moves. If the needle moves, the gauges is good and there are wiring issues elsewhere. I’ve seen brand new sending units fail. There should be 12 volts at the bulkhead connector with the key in the run position for all wiring to the gauges. Tom -Original Message-
Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question
What you need to do now is with ign in run, go to the senders unplug them and check for voltage at the plug. Either with a voltmeter or test light. This is checking continuity from the gauges to the sender’s plugs. If you have continuity then there is a grounding issue. If you have no voltage at the unplugged sender plugs then there is open wire to the gauges. Leo
Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question
Bob, Jim is right. With the cluster plug connected to the cluster and Ign switch in run, you should have 12v when you disconnect the plug at either the temp sender or fuel sender. If you don’t, then there is an open somewhere between the gauge fuse and the sender plugs. You can use a test light and disconnect the sender plugs and connect the test light to these connectors. The light should light but it will be dim. As for grounding; You should ground the engine to the frame and to the body. You should ground the body to the frame. The cluster should be grounded to the dash frame. The headlight should be grounded to the cluster by a shorting strap. The fuel tank should be grounded to the frame. All of these grounds need to be in place to eliminate any grounding loops. Bad grounds will give bad readings and can cause you to go around in circles. You did indicate that your gauges never did work. My 70 El Camino had a problem that was caused by the amp meter wires had melted in the dash harness. There was no indication of a problem except that the amp didn’t move. The outside of the harness looked good. I found the problem when install a TPI engine and rewired the harness for the computer and upgrade for glass fuse to ATO. Several of the wires were melted together. These old original harness are in bad shape. Do check the grounds. Leo - Original Message - From: rml...@comcast.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question Jim I appriciate your help. It seems to me Iam being told 2 different things here. Leo say's there should be no power at pins 10 and 11 and it sounds to me like your telling me there should be power at those pins. I dont understand the principles of operation here. I dont understand how they work.I hope someone here can explain to me exactly how it works. Does 12 volts go through the guage and the sending units add resistance to ground. Thanks every body for your help here. I just wanna get my guages working. - Original Message - From: "Jim Thompson" jimthompso...@gmail.com To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, February 2, 2010 7:10:29 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question I will suggest again that ground is critical. Your fuel sending unit should have its own ground wire. The temp sending unit is hot, internally the switch closes to ground. With the key to “on” both should be hot. Your fuse box should have one fuse marked “gauges” if it is hot on both sides. Then it is a ground issue or short in the gauge harness. From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of rml...@comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 4:25 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question Does anyone know where the voltage for the fuel and temp. guages is fed from. I have voltage to everything except these two guages. I unplugged the 12 pin connector that plugs into the pcb and checked for voltage there. everything is hot with the exception of temp and fuel. all my fuses are good. Any ideas.Thanks, Bob - Original Message - From: dhoesc...@granitecityperformance.com To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 10:03:58 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question I would suggest disconnecting the tan fuel sender feed wire at the fuel tank. Turn the key to RUN position and wait a few moments (some gauges are slow) with the tan wire disconnected the fuel gauge should read past full. Then ground the tan wire anywhere to the body and the gauge should read empty. If you get no response then you have a bad gauge or a wiring problem. -Original Message- From: "Tom Rightler" Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 20:47 To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question If you want to check the gauges, send 12 volts directly to them and see if the needle moves. If the needle moves, the gauges is good and there are wiring issues elsewhere. I’ve seen brand new sending units fail. There should be 12 volts at the bulkhead connector with the key in the run position for all wiring to the gauges. Tom -Original Message- From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of rml...@comcast.net Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 9:01 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question The sending. unit is grounded to the body, and the temp sending unit is new. Tom,do you know if there would or should be voltage at the 12 point connection into the pcb. for the temp and fuel guages - Original Message - From: "Tom
Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question
Below is a copy of the 12 pin plugs for both gauges & idiot lights. With the key in the RUN position you should have 12v at pin 7, the pink wire. Pin 10, green wire, is temp from engine, no power. Pin 11, brown wire is from gas tank sender, no power. Pin 6, Blue wire is for oil pressure light, no power. If you have power at pin 7, reconnect the plug to instrument cluster, with ign switch in the RUN position, disconnect the temp connector for the sender and ground it. The temp gauge to indicate full deflection. The same indication with the fuel wire grounded. The only time you should have power to the instruments is in the run position. I sure hope that this is helpful. Leo Chevelle Tach & Gauge Dash Wiring - Original Message - From: rml...@comcast.net To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 1:24 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question Does anyone know where the voltage for the fuel and temp. guages is fed from. I have voltage to everything except these two guages. I unplugged the 12 pin connector that plugs into the pcb and checked for voltage there. everything is hot with the exception of temp and fuel. all my fuses are good. Any ideas.Thanks, Bob - Original Message - From: dhoesc...@granitecityperformance.com To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Monday, February 1, 2010 10:03:58 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] wiring question
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fwd: [CECCO] Fw: CHANGING FAN BELTS [1Attachment]
how_to_change_a_vw_belt.wmv - Original Message - From: harkema...@aol.com To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 12:21 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fwd: [CECCO] Fw: CHANGING FAN BELTS [1Attachment] In a message dated 11/22/2009 11:19:33 PM Central Standard Time, z16chevelle...@comcast.net writes: I wonder how many fingers it took to get this right? Larry (Z) i did not get the link for what ever this was?? thanks Harlan
Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question
It's strange that Costco will top off all tires that they sell for free. It's been three years now and I have all three cars with tires from Costco and never paid extra for the Nitrogen they inflate their tires with. Rotation and re-balance is also free. Costco sells tires for less and gives the Nitrogen free. Dealers are gouging the public. Leo - Original Message - From: tc To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 8:15 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question air is 78% Nitrogen To: dansolo...@msn.com ; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 10:34 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question I have a 2006 Jeep and notice that periodically my tire sensors state that my air pressure is low by 5-6 lbs. Funny thing is each time its' a different tire. The GM dealer price for this is $ 69 and they tell me that a few of the local stations are charging $100 plus Rich - 70 SS coupe To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net From: dansolo...@msn.com Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 14:17:22 + Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question My boss has a Mercedes with tire pressure monitors. Was constantly having to make additions. The nitrogen was recommended by the dealer and solved the problem. If I remember correctly it was pricey. Good ol air works fine for me. Thanks, Dan -- Sent using BlackBerry From: richard sierra Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 23:24:35 -0500 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question I just purchased a new GMC vehicle and the dealer offered the following new package called "Nitro Fill'. The claim is that nitrogen is better than compressed air in a tire. They claim that nitrogen is a dry gas and is free of moisture. It doesn't deteriorate the rubber and it is lss susceptible to air loss with temperature changes. I'd be interested to hear what the "group" thinks about this. Thanks Rich - 70 SS Coupe Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now. Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. Sign up now.
Re: [Chevelle-list] A Veteran
We All do that. Myself, I have to read, and then think about what I read and read it allover again. Senior moments, I believe
Re: [Chevelle-list] A Veteran
You need to read what I said. “I can’t agree more with the paragraph at the bottom of this post.” After thirty years and retired form the Navy, I rather believe that I AM a Veteran! I didn’t do 2 or 4 and jump out, and I gave that blank check several times. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 12:01 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A Veteran I'm in late guys but I have to respond. What's there not to agree with. Nothing political here. No disrepect but obviously you're not a veteran! Phil G. 65 SS
[Chevelle-list] A Veteran
I can't agree more with the paragraph at the bottom of this post. - Original Message - From: Rich Pruett To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:51 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] The latest installment of the Camaro Insider ishere. Thought you guys and girls would like to see pictures of my next car. Color selection is narrowed down to Aqua Blue Metallic, Cyber Gray Metallic, Silver Ice Matallic or Inferno Orange Metallic. Dear Richard Pruett, The 2010 Chevy Camaro is taking the entertainment world by storm and only the Insider has an exclusive round up on when and where you can catch a glimpse of your favorite sport's car. Plus, get all the latest news, photos and videos on the 2010 Chevy Camaro here. This is an email advertisement. If you wish to unsubscribe from these Camaro email updates, please click here. If you prefer not to receive any unsolicited marketing e-mails regarding GM vehicles, please click here. ©2008 GM Corp. General Motors Corporation, 100 GM Renaissance Center, 482-A00-MAR, Detroit, MI 48265. GM Privacy Statement | Copyright & Trademark Information A veteran - whether active duty or national guard or reserve - is Someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life." That is honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it. Author unknown. Semper Fi.
Re: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and....
Ok, it sounds like you have an HEI distributor. When you replaced the ignition module on one end you connected two wires to one side and the other side there are five wires. The two wires connect to a pickup coil underneath a cover with three screws and three go to the coil. The end with just two wires goes to a capacitor. I would try this capacitor before the pickup coil as the capacitor is more sensitive to heat, easier to replace and cheaper. Leo - Original Message - From: tabius barrett To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 2:06 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and No its not the starterIts an ignition/electrical issue. The starter works properly. -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2008 09:57:57 -0700 Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and If I understand you what you are saying is that when you try to start the engine the starter spins but the engine will not turn over. If this is your problem then you need the check the starter. Either replace the starter drive inside the starter or replace the starter as an assembly. Hope this helps. Leo - Original Message - From: tabius barrett To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 8:49 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and Ok here is the latest problem. First let me say that i have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ignition module, ignition switch, and coil, all twice. The issue is that when I drive the car, as long as the car is hot, it starts up just fine. However, when I allow the car to sit and cool off for several hours or overnight, the car spins but will not crank. After trying to crank it a few times, if i let it sit for another several hours, it will fire right up. Then it cranks fine for a few days then it starts all over again. I don't know what else to replace. I was just told yesterday that it may be the "pick-up coil" in the actual distributor. Driving me crazy. Any thoughts? tb 71 Chevelle SS 402 Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play chicktionary! -- Do more with your photos with Windows Live Photo Gallery. Get Windows Live-Free
Re: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and....
If I understand you what you are saying is that when you try to start the engine the starter spins but the engine will not turn over. If this is your problem then you need the check the starter. Either replace the starter drive inside the starter or replace the starter as an assembly. Hope this helps. Leo - Original Message - From: tabius barrett To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 8:49 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and Ok here is the latest problem. First let me say that i have replaced the distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ignition module, ignition switch, and coil, all twice. The issue is that when I drive the car, as long as the car is hot, it starts up just fine. However, when I allow the car to sit and cool off for several hours or overnight, the car spins but will not crank. After trying to crank it a few times, if i let it sit for another several hours, it will fire right up. Then it cranks fine for a few days then it starts all over again. I don't know what else to replace. I was just told yesterday that it may be the "pick-up coil" in the actual distributor. Driving me crazy. Any thoughts? tb 71 Chevelle SS 402 -- Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play chicktionary!
Re: [Chevelle-list] Energy Non-Crisis
If you would like to read the book ‘The Energy Non-Crisis by Lindsey Williams’ You can find it here for free. http://www.reformation.org/energy-non-crisis.html Very interesting reading if you only believe ½ of it. - Original Message - From: Dan Mascheck To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 3:24 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Joe America. O/T If you like this video, try these about oil! Watch them all. Interesting if true!! 1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbakN7SLdbk 2. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGGjbDjnNzw 3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q39ic04vhNo 4. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKCyCYz_aHY 5. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TYmSGwAumk 6. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbwMOvV6ctg 7. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5HGHsy3H_0 8. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CC61X78-OI0 From: Dave Corgill [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 1:01 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Joe America. O/T At 11:23 AM 6/10/2008, you wrote:  Very interesting message. Joe America on oil. This guy makes a lot of sense. Please take a few minutes and watch This guy’s message is right on target. If only he were a candidate. At the end, Joe America provides an email address. Please send this on to your email distribution until every American has seen it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPch2k63uj4 = Check this out also if you want to see the truth. Check this out. About 1 hr. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3340274697167011147
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection!
I have a 1970 El Camino with a 92 TPI engine and 700R4 unit out of a 92 Camaro. I use the A100 pump mounted in the rear in front of fuel tank below level of tank pick up. Stock fuel pick up and sender installed in tank with ¾" rubber line to pre filter to pump. AN-6 SS line to left side of engine with Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator set to 55#. This return line goes to Morose EFI fuel return kit that is installed in the gas tank fill pipe. The fuel rail return line is run in a separate line that connects to one of the vapor pipes at the top of the tank. From the Aeromotive fuel pressure/return regulator to fuel rail is another fuel filter, I used a fram heavy duty filter rated at 200#. I had this installed in 1999 with no problems with this setup. The El Camino is a driver and not used for drags so the AN-6 lines satisfy the fuel supply. You man need to increase the supply lines for performance operation. FYI, the stock or after market in tank pumps are not suitable for use outside the tank. The liquid of the fuel is used to cool the pump in the tank. If you used this type of pump and shield the pump with Dynomat you could have prevented the pump from cooling with the air passed over it. Good luck Leo - Original Message - From: "Daniel Mascheck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fuel injection! I know this may not be the place to ask, but I have a 46 Chevy truck with a 96 LT1 fuel injected engine. I have gone through 4 fuel pumps in two months. I have the old underneath the seat tank, and I'm pulling from the bottom of the tank. I was running rubber fuel injection rated lines and the tank is plumbed with a return. The pump is maybe 4" from one exhaust and I do have a small shield of Dynomat Extreme, but I doubt it's doing much good! After I have been stranded several times, it's time to do some major surgery! First the pump will be relocated! I have called Aeromotive and they gave me a plan on re-plumbing with 10 AN fitting and braided SS hose with a pre filter from the tank to the pump with an A-1000 fuel pump. Then a post filter to the engine using 8 AN hose to the engine, then a special regulator of their choice and 6 AN return line. The question is, is anyone one running a fuel injection system with an external pump successfully? I don't want to move the tank underneath the bed, and surely it can be done. Thanks Dan
Re: [Chevelle-list] Small block lifting points
I have a lifting plate that bolts to the intake manifold in place of the carburetor with the three holes in the vertical plate. I use the rear hole if the transmission is to be removed with the engine. I have removed small block and big block, manual and automatic transmissions in 'A', 'F' and 'B' body's with and without the hoods installed. The engine lift plate has never failed in the 15 years that I have used it. I have removed the distributor before removal and install it after the engine and transmission are in place. Also use a slip yoke in the transmission and not a plastic plug while removing or installing. I have found that the plastic plug can be dislodged if in contact with firewall. Also use a floor jack under the transmission to lift to remove and replace rear cross member for transmission mount. This operation has worked good for quick and safe removal and installation. Leo - Original Message - From: chevelle292wagon dejazzd.com To: Chevelle-list Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 7:25 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Small block lifting points A dumb question maybe: Where do you attach to a 64 283 to lift engine and tranny as a unit? I've only done a V-8 once! I think I used two intake manifold bolt holes but thought I'd ask. Is it worth buying an engine tilter? Thanks. Pete
Re: [Chevelle-list] Jack Stands with Bottle jack
Try This Link http://www.kwiklift.com/Accessories.htm - Original Message - From: Jim Buckingham To: 'Rick Schaefer' ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 5:44 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Jack Stands with Bottle jack Yeah that won't work. They kwiklift has a tray that you put the jackstands on. Can't get a regular jack up there. Thanks, Jim -- From: Rick Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 8:05 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Jack Stands with Bottle jack I saw something similar in the last Craftsmen Club Sale Flyer. The jackstand is on the end of the jack; and once the jack is raised you pull it out leaving the JS behind. It was in the $150.00 range. On 8/13/07, Jim Buckingham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: In some magazine, I saw a jack stand that had a bottle jack incorporated. Those would be great to use with the kwiklift. I can not for the life of me find the magazine or the manufacturer. Anyone have any ideas or a source? Thanks, Jim Buckingham -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Jack Stands with Bottle jack
Try This Link http://www.kwiklift.com/Accessories.htm - Original Message - From: Jim Buckingham To: 'Rick Schaefer' ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 5:44 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Jack Stands with Bottle jack Yeah that won't work. They kwiklift has a tray that you put the jackstands on. Can't get a regular jack up there. Thanks, Jim -- From: Rick Schaefer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 8:05 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Jack Stands with Bottle jack I saw something similar in the last Craftsmen Club Sale Flyer. The jackstand is on the end of the jack; and once the jack is raised you pull it out leaving the JS behind. It was in the $150.00 range. On 8/13/07, Jim Buckingham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: In some magazine, I saw a jack stand that had a bottle jack incorporated. Those would be great to use with the kwiklift. I can not for the life of me find the magazine or the manufacturer. Anyone have any ideas or a source? Thanks, Jim Buckingham -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
What's The Problem? Distribution Block Proportion Valve Combination Valve They all have the safety valve that closed off the defective side of the brake system to prevent all fluid loss and complete loss of brakes. The valve has to be returned to natural so that fluid can flow to both front and rear brakes. Leo - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes If it's on a 69 he's describing the distribution block. Both the distribution block in 69 and 70 and the prop valve 71 - 72 have 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized)" Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Trooper he says that he has a connection on his valve. "2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized)" Leo - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Can't do this on a 69. As described in my previous post, the prop valve has no idiot light connection in 69 or 70. Trooper - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefe
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Trooper he says that he has a connection on his valve. "2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized)" Leo - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Can't do this on a 69. As described in my previous post, the prop valve has no idiot light connection in 69 or 70. Trooper - Original Message ----- From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center"? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: > What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered > is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the > system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Mike, this valve is also called a 'Combination Valve' because it not only proportions front and rear pressure but also adds safety to the brake system. It does two jobs. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center"? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: > What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered > is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the > system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear > first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the > car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the > brake light is on the por, vale is off center. > - Original Message - From: "Michael Pell" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "ChevelleList" > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes > > >> I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to >> flow through the lines. >> I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is >> working. >> >> I even , gulp, read the directions. Open the bleeder open on the >> brake pedal downstroke, close it before brake pedal gets to the bottom. >> I can hear and see the air moving a bit in the clear hose from the >> bleeder to the cup . >> >> Any tips on how to get the fluid down the lines? >> Thanks, >> Mike >> >> -- >> -- >> I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find >> out there isn't, Than live my >> life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal >> Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com >> TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com >> Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 >> Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc ( http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 >> >> >> > > > > > -- Rick Schaefer 72 TPI El Camino Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.5.5/769 - Release Date: 4/19/2007 5:56 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes
Mike, On the prop valve the idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized) turns on the brake light on the dash to tell you that you have a problem with the brake system. A valve underneath the plug will slide in the direction where the pressure is the lowest, a leak either in the front or rear line section. When that valve moves it will block any more fluid going to the leaking or low-pressure side of the prop valve. You need to return the valve underneath the plug back to the center so that fluid will flow to the front and rear brakes. What you have sounds like the valve has closed off the rear brakes. Fluid will go the front but not the rear. The Prop valve will provide a ground for the light. You can connect a test light to the plug. If the valve has moved to close off a section of the brake lines the light will light. With the test light connected the plug open a front line and slowly apply pressure at the brake pedal and watch the light. If it flickers and stays on the valve has slid to the opposite side. You should be able to bleed the rears now but not the front. What you want is to have the test light out. You may have to open the rear line and repeat the apply brake pedal slowly while watching the light until it stay out. At some point in time the brake pedal was applied with a leak or open line to the rear brakes and the prop valve closed off the rear brakes. When the prop valve closes off either side it is for safety and you will have at least half of the braking system to stop the vehicle. Try the test light to see if the prop valve has slid to either side. Leo - Original Message - From: Michael Pell To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes The Prop valve is from a '69, I think. No such pin as you mention. 2 inputs, 3 outputs, 1 idiot wire plug-in (currently not utilized). I took the 1st MC back, and got another just like it. It seems to be working better. I finally got the fronts to bleed!!! And the front wheels are done. This has not been fun. Now the rears won't bleed at all, haven't moved an ounce from the resevoir. I can see bubbles move forward/back as the pedal is pumped (1 man bleed kit), so I know that the lines are clear and not kinked. At least some air is getting moved at the rear wheel cylinder as the pedal is pumped. I did bench bleed the MC, that went fine. I'm going to let it sitt over night hoping to let the gravity do it's thing. I don't think I've ever had this much trouble bleeding brakes!! Thanks for the suggestions. Mike -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Rick Schaefer wrote: Mike What year? And where can you not get fluid? Front/rear/both? For 72 anyway, there is a pin on the proportioning valve that must be pressed in to get flow to the rear. On 4/20/07, Michael Pell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks, but what do you mean by 'off center"? -- I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out there isn't, Than live my life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold), ACES member #1377 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6 Mark Tibbits wrote: > What brake lines did you replace? The por. valve might be off centered > is the brake light on? You might have to have to press. bleed the > system.If you are bleeding the fronts you might have to bleed the rear > first. Some times if the por. valve is off center you can drive the > car as long as you have some brake pedal and then try again. If the > brake light is on the por, vale is off center. > - Original Message - From: "Michael Pell" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "ChevelleList" > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 7:59 PM > Subject: [Chevelle-list] Help bleeding brakes > > >> I replaced the MC and and brake lines, and can't get any fluid to >> flow through the lines. >> I did successfully bleed the MC seperately, so I know that part is >> working. >> >> I even , gulp, read the directions.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering
It is possible that the steering box has developed what is knowing as 'stick slip condition'. That is the balls in the guide tubes and sticking and binding, especially when engine is cold and just starting up after sitting for a few hours. After warm up and getting the balls moving the condition will go away but will return after a long cool down. The tubes in the steering box are worn. You could replace the tubes and balls in the steering box and correct the problem but at the age of the box other parts are also worn. A replacement unit will correct all worn parts. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:53 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering Nope! I guess It's been there since I bought the car but I didn't notice it in the beginning because the engine was idling quite high! Now when the carb is OK and the engine is starting to act normal I've noticed this! But it's also possible that the problem have popped up lately. My guess is that it's the steering pump. If it's the pump? Is it enough to buy a gasket kit to get rid of the problem or is it something else (hard to fix) that's worn out or broken in the pump? Pelle - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering Did it start after replacing the hoses? Could have air in the system. Dale McIntosh 1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs ChevelleStuff.com ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 11:19 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering The belt is new, the fluid is fresh and at a proper level, the hoses to/from the pump are new! Pelle - Original Message - From: Dale To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:12 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering You don't mention if you have power steering or not but low fluid or loose p/s belt can cause this if so equipped. Dale McIntosh 1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs ChevelleStuff.com ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92 -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:51 AM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering Hi! The steering's a bit jerky at low rpm's, like when I'm parking the car! Something wrong or normal? The steering seems to be working fine but I can feel pulses/vibrations in the steering wheel & the wheels move a bit "nervous" when steering. Best regards Pelle __ Chevelle gearheads http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ http://groups.msn.com/chevellegearheads/restorepics.msnw avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 000734-1, 04/17/2007 Tested on: 4/17/2007 11:12:09 AM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software. -- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 000734-1, 04/17/2007 Tested on: 4/17/2007 11:31:57 AM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Diameter of 327 draft tube hole?
1 1/4" - Original Message - From: Anthony Jenefsky To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 12:29 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Diameter of 327 draft tube hole? Anybody know what the diameter of 327 draft tube hole is? I need to block it off with a freeze plug and the engine is 30 miles from me right now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Tony
Re: [Chevelle-list] Front end fastener kit?
Cupped side should be outward. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 11:03 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Front end fastener kit? Ok! Seemes I've them at the right place :-) I thought they might be alignment washers for the fenders (the ones just beside the hood hinges) They are "cupped" should the cupped side be outwards or inwards? Pelle - Original Message ----- From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 6:37 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Front end fastener kit? Pelle, On my 70 on the inner fender well on the lower rear there are two holes that are larger than the rest. The large washers will be used here. They fasten the fender to the body. On my 65 on the inner fender well above the wheel there are two holes that are larger than the rest. They fasten the inner fender to the fender and are about 12" separation between them. The kit says it is for a 70 up and I don't remember which model year you have. I had to get two different kits when I did mine. Hope this helps. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 3:42 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Front end fastener kit? What are the 4 big washers in these kits for? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front-sheet-metal-kit-Camaro-1970-71-72-73-74-75-76-81_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36475QQihZ016QQitemZ260018151178QQtcZphoto Best regards Pelle __ Chevelle gearheads http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ http://groups.msn.com/chevellegearheads/restorepics.msnw -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.433 / Virus Database: 268.16.6/617 - Release Date: 1/5/2007 11:11 AM -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.433 / Virus Database: 268.16.6/617 - Release Date: 1/5/2007 11:11 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Front end fastener kit?
Pelle, On my 70 on the inner fender well on the lower rear there are two holes that are larger than the rest. The large washers will be used here. They fasten the fender to the body. On my 65 on the inner fender well above the wheel there are two holes that are larger than the rest. They fasten the inner fender to the fender and are about 12" separation between them. The kit says it is for a 70 up and I don't remember which model year you have. I had to get two different kits when I did mine. Hope this helps. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 3:42 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Front end fastener kit? What are the 4 big washers in these kits for? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front-sheet-metal-kit-Camaro-1970-71-72-73-74-75-76-81_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36475QQihZ016QQitemZ260018151178QQtcZphoto Best regards Pelle __ Chevelle gearheads http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ http://groups.msn.com/chevellegearheads/restorepics.msnw -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.433 / Virus Database: 268.16.6/617 - Release Date: 1/5/2007 11:11 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Lower Ball Joints
1-1/2" TAPER PER FOOT BALL JOINT & TIE ROD TAPER REAMER #5952 - Original Message - From: langus To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 4:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Lower Ball Joints Jim... I do believe they are the same size as your 69 but maybe someone on the list can clarify that would know for sure..thanks Leo That web site that you gave me...would you happen to know off hand what size of reamer I would need? Thanks for all the help guys! Once I finally get these dumb spindles on, I can finish up the front end and get it put on the new rims and tires instead of the jack stand it has been on for what seems like an eternity!! Thanks again Ryan No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/476 - Release Date: 10/14/2006 6:30 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Lower Ball Joints
All A bodys were the same. Care lines seemed to use same parts through years. Although there were crossovers in some places. Leo - Original Message - From: Jim Sullivan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 3:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Lower Ball Joints Are they the same for a '69 Malibu, SB ?? If so , I can measure mine. They are out. - Original Message - From: langus To: Chevelle Chat Forum Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 6:06 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Lower Ball Joints I was wondering if any of you would be able/willing to go measure the shaft on your front lower ball joints (mine are 1968) and tell me the diameter at the top and bottom. My new ball joints and old ball joints are not the same diameter. Someone had mentioned earlier about getting the right box but not having the right ball joint inside the box. I am beginning to think they where on to something. My old ones measure .790 at the bottom and .636 at top. The new ball joints measure .783 at the bottom and .690 at the top. The old one has 5651 stamped on the bottom and the new one has 9642 on the bottom (they are both Moog). Anyone willing to help me out again? Thanks! Ryan No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/476 - Release Date: 10/14/2006 6:30 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Lower Ball Joints
That was me Ryan. I believe that you were given the lower ball joints for a Camaro. You are better off with them as they are heavy duty and stronger that the original. You will have to ream out the lower mount on the spindle to get the correct fit. I did when I installed the tall spindles form a Camaro, it takes time to ream out and test fit until you get the carter key hole to line up with the space in the nut. Funny thing about GM and their lower control arms between car lines. The mounting for the ball joint is the same diameter but the shaft is a different size. I would measure mine but they are together now and I would have to separate them. Try this web site for a ream http://www.xkut-reamers.com Leo - Original Message - From: langus To: Chevelle Chat Forum Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 3:06 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Lower Ball Joints I was wondering if any of you would be able/willing to go measure the shaft on your front lower ball joints (mine are 1968) and tell me the diameter at the top and bottom. My new ball joints and old ball joints are not the same diameter. Someone had mentioned earlier about getting the right box but not having the right ball joint inside the box. I am beginning to think they where on to something. My old ones measure .790 at the bottom and .636 at top. The new ball joints measure .783 at the bottom and .690 at the top. The old one has 5651 stamped on the bottom and the new one has 9642 on the bottom (they are both Moog). Anyone willing to help me out again? Thanks! Ryan No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/476 - Release Date: 10/14/2006 6:30 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle
Question, are you having the same problem with the lower ball joint on both sides? Camaro lower ball joints will fit the lower control arm but have a larger and different taper. Same with lower ball joints that fit 'B' body. They are press in interference fit and some are threaded and screw into to lower control arm. My thought is that what you received was miss packaged with the correct part number on the package. If you got the correct part you should not have the problem you are having. If you still have the old ball joints, test fit them in your spindles. Leo - Original Message - From: "langus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 10:54 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle I stuffed foam into all the ball joint/tierod end openings on the spindle before I had them powdercoated and taped the threads on the spindle. I have tried to put the control arms onto the spindle with out having to fumble with the springs but I just cannot get the spindle down on the lower (the upper fits fine) ball joint. I have checked that I have the right lower ball joint, and even took my die grinder (gently) into the taper in the spindle thinking maybe I just had a burr or something. Still no go. I can get the castle nut down far enough the that top of the cotter hole is just barly visible but not enough to get the cotter pin in. Guess I will just have to keep working at it. The upper ball joints slide right through nicely so I am not sure what happened. Anyway, thanks for all the responsesYou guys are great Ryan -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.3/474 - Release Date: 10/13/2006 9:00 AM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Air Suspension
When I put this system together
ART didnt offer anything but analog controllers. Dakota was digital and the
display fit nicely along side the radio.
Anything else would have to hang below the dash.
I give an opinion between the two
but what I put together works for me and so far is reliable. I guess that I have been lucky in
piecing parts from different manufactures together and getting them to work.
Leo
- Original Message -
From:
Clint Hooper
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 11:36
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Air
Suspension
What's your honest opinion of the Dakota Digital
controller? ART's digital controller is a POS.
Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino protourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htmhttp://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/"You
may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of
brass."
- Original Message -
From:
Leo John
Costigan
I have shockwave coil-overs on front and
tapered bags on rear. Installed
a little over a year now and doing fine.
For the front is used Air Rides
kit with lower control arm and shockwave, before they started calling them
Strong Arm.
I used upper control arms from
Speedway Motors that are adjustable.
The rears are the tapered bags
that fit in the spring pockets.
I used the Big Red control
valves and controlled with Dakota Digital
controller. I also used their
Instrument system for the dash gauges.
Leo
- Original
Message -
From:
Clint
Hooper
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 5:25
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list]
Spindle
You planning to run bags or Shockwave
coilovers?
Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino
protourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htmhttp://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/"You
may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile
of brass."
- Original Message -
From:
Leo
John Costigan
Forgot to mention that I
also used lower A arms from shockwave set up from Air Ride Technology
while installing air bags.
Leo
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Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle
I changed the upper control arms and used adjustable ones from Speedway Motors. The adjustment is with the two arms going to the upper ball joint. You loosen the jam nuts and twist the shafts to get the alignment. They are shorter and straight from the frame mount to the ball joint. Leo - Original Message - From: Jim H. Thompson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 8:00 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle Did you change your upper control arms to the shorter ones, or were you able to get proper alignment? -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Leo John CostiganSent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 7:41 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle If your spindle taper has build up from powder coating you may need to clean the taper for a proper fit. This web site may help you find the proper ream to clean up the taper. http://www.xkut-reamers.com I installed tall spindles form a Camaro and had to enlarge the taper so the nut would close down enough for the carter key to be installed. Hope this is of some help to you. Leo - Original Message - From: langus To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle I too am doing a frame off resto... I checked with the auto store today and they verified that I had the right lower ball joint (original spindle going onto new MOOG lower and upper ball joints). I know have some good ideas to try tonight. I found myself the other night with a hammer in my hand thinking about convincing my newly powdercoated spindle on to my newly powdercoated control arms that are attached to my newly powdercoated frame. Needless to say I had to walk away. Thats when I sent the email. I will try tonight to get them back on. I have done coil springs before but for some reason these are fighting me. Ryan Havinvg malibu spindles and putting BB coil springs wouldnt have anything to do with it would it? I have always thought they where the same spindles for BB and SB cars. Maybe not Thanks again No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.2/472 - Release Date: 10/11/2006 2:45 PM No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.2/472 - Release Date: 10/11/2006 2:45 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Air Suspension
I have shockwave coil-overs on front and tapered bags on rear. Installed a little over a year now and doing fine. For the front is used Air Rides kit with lower control arm and shockwave, before they started calling them Strong Arm. I used upper control arms from Speedway Motors that are adjustable. The rears are the tapered bags that fit in the spring pockets. I used the Big Red control valves and controlled with Dakota Digital controller. I also used their Instrument system for the dash gauges. Leo - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 5:25 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle You planning to run bags or Shockwave coilovers? Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino protourerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htmhttp://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/"You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a pile of brass." - Original Message ----- From: Leo John Costigan Forgot to mention that I also used lower A arms from shockwave set up from Air Ride Technology while installing air bags. Leo No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.2/472 - Release Date: 10/11/2006 2:45 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle
Forgot to mention that I also used lower A arms from shockwave set up from Air Ride Technology while installing air bags. Leo - Original Message - From: langus To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle I too am doing a frame off resto... I checked with the auto store today and they verified that I had the right lower ball joint (original spindle going onto new MOOG lower and upper ball joints). I know have some good ideas to try tonight. I found myself the other night with a hammer in my hand thinking about convincing my newly powdercoated spindle on to my newly powdercoated control arms that are attached to my newly powdercoated frame. Needless to say I had to walk away. Thats when I sent the email. I will try tonight to get them back on. I have done coil springs before but for some reason these are fighting me. Ryan Havinvg malibu spindles and putting BB coil springs wouldnt have anything to do with it would it? I have always thought they where the same spindles for BB and SB cars. Maybe not Thanks again No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.2/472 - Release Date: 10/11/2006 2:45 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle
If your spindle taper has build up from powder coating you may need to clean the taper for a proper fit. This web site may help you find the proper ream to clean up the taper. http://www.xkut-reamers.com I installed tall spindles form a Camaro and had to enlarge the taper so the nut would close down enough for the carter key to be installed. Hope this is of some help to you. Leo - Original Message - From: langus To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 3:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Spindle I too am doing a frame off resto... I checked with the auto store today and they verified that I had the right lower ball joint (original spindle going onto new MOOG lower and upper ball joints). I know have some good ideas to try tonight. I found myself the other night with a hammer in my hand thinking about convincing my newly powdercoated spindle on to my newly powdercoated control arms that are attached to my newly powdercoated frame. Needless to say I had to walk away. Thats when I sent the email. I will try tonight to get them back on. I have done coil springs before but for some reason these are fighting me. Ryan Havinvg malibu spindles and putting BB coil springs wouldnt have anything to do with it would it? I have always thought they where the same spindles for BB and SB cars. Maybe not Thanks again No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG.Version: 7.5.427 / Virus Database: 268.13.2/472 - Release Date: 10/11/2006 2:45 PM
Re: [Chevelle-list] 'slightly' off topic- disc brake question.
First off, that gear on the back of the rotors is for the anti lock brakes. There is a sensor mounted of the spindle that has a set clearance between the sensor and the rotor. You may have this sensor too close to the rotor and that is the clicking sound. You could destroy the sensor and not have anti lock function is a panic situation when the brakes lock up. On the dash there is a warning light for anti lock brakes. It should come on when ignition switch if turned to the run position and then go out. If your vehicle does not have anti lock brakes when you got the replacement rotors you got the ones for anti lock and there is interference because of the 'gear' on the rear of the rotor and after some driving the gear brakes off or wears until the is clearance. The gear on the rear of the rotor is actually part of the wheel speed sensor system that controls when the brake system will go into anti lock. Hope this is of some help, Leo - Original Message - From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle Group" Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 5:23 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] 'slightly' off topic- disc brake question. I have a disc brake question which I'm hoping you guys can help me with.. Only thing is, the brakes are on my GMC Sonoma. Today I did new rotors, wheel bearings (in and out), seals, and pads on my truck (also did badly needed front shocks). Thought since colder weather was on the way, now was the time.. This is the 2nd time I've done this in the time I've had the truck (since 2000), and it's the 2nd time I've had this issue. With all of the new parts in place, I went for a test drive. Overall I can feel improvement, but from 0-10 and at deceleration, I can feel what I want to describe as a "ticking" or "clicking" feeling in the steering wheel. Again it's only from 0-10 and at the very end. The rotors are brand new, and I know they're not warped b/c it's not that sensation I'm feeling (I know that one). I have noticed tho that on the back of the rotor, where the inner bearing is seated, there is what I want to call a 'gear' with teeth that goes all the way around. I'm wondering if the ticking I'm feeling in the steering wheel, is because I have the discs too tight and that gear is rubbing somewhere? I was able to spin the discs after assembly before putting the wheel on by hand, and they do spin but with some drag (which is how I thought they were supposed to be). Other point worth mentioning, I did pack all the new bearings with fresh grease, and filled the grease caps, so I don't think it's the bearings. Any help would be greatly appreciated, b/c it pissed me off to feel this after spending all day working on this truck. Regards, Jim '66 Malibu '98 Sonoma a step away from trade-in __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.407 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-(
Pelle, to check for an external vacuum leak use Carb cleaner and spray around the gasket between manifold and head. If you have an external leak the RPMs will increase. If you have an internal leak you may not notice anything. Internal leaks will have oil deposits on spark plugs and severe leak will show blue smoke out the tail pipe, if true dual exhaust the smoke will be out the pipe on the leaking bank. This leak will be from the intake gasket. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:09 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( Aaahhh! I see! Its a Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake & Yes its a dual plane! When checked it #8 got lukewarm whilst all others got scorching hot! Maybe its something somewhere between the cam & valves then? How many PSI compression should I expect from a 402 BB? Whats normal? Pelle Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För Leo John CostiganSkickat: den 22 augusti 2006 01:20Till: The Chevelle Mailing ListÄmne: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( They share the same runner form the Carb base to the head port. Look at the intake manifold and you will see that four cylinders share runners. Two even and two odd. This is for a dual plane manifold. If you are using a single plane manifold then all 8 will draw from the Carb. Dual plane manifolds usually will pare off with 1 4 6 7 runners and 2 3 5 8 runners. 5 & 8 are the rear runners and if you have a vacuum leak at 8, 5 will have a somewhat lean mixture. 2 & 3 will be far enough from the leak that they will not be affected, as 5 would be. This is all assuming that you have a dual plane manifold. A vacuum leak in a single plane manifold should not more than where the leak is. Look at the top of your manifold and you will see how the runners are cast. Four runners will be higher than the other four. This works for two barrel and four barrel manifolds. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 3:16 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( I'm not sure I follow you here? I get the part that a leaking intake runner might cause low exhaust temp. due to a lean condition, sounds resonable to a rookie like me. But how's that related to #5 cylinder? Best regards Pelle - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( Pelle, you might want to check for a vacuum leak on the #8 intake runner and also check the #5 spark plug and compare it with the other three on the odd side of the engine. A vacuum leak will cause a cylinder to be lean and have a low exhaust temp. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( The primary tube on #8 cylinder is much colder than the rest! Haven't checked anything yet! What's your best bet? Best regardsPelle__Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/http://groups.msn.com/chevellegearheads/restorepics.msnw No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.4/424 - Release Date: 8/21/2006 No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.4/424 - Release Date: 8/21/2006 No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.4/424 - Release Date: 8/21/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-(
They share the same runner form the Carb base to the head port. Look at the intake manifold and you will see that four cylinders share runners. Two even and two odd. This is for a dual plane manifold. If you are using a single plane manifold then all 8 will draw from the Carb. Dual plane manifolds usually will pare off with 1 4 6 7 runners and 2 3 5 8 runners. 5 & 8 are the rear runners and if you have a vacuum leak at 8, 5 will have a somewhat lean mixture. 2 & 3 will be far enough from the leak that they will not be affected, as 5 would be. This is all assuming that you have a dual plane manifold. A vacuum leak in a single plane manifold should not more than where the leak is. Look at the top of your manifold and you will see how the runners are cast. Four runners will be higher than the other four. This works for two barrel and four barrel manifolds. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 3:16 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( I'm not sure I follow you here? I get the part that a leaking intake runner might cause low exhaust temp. due to a lean condition, sounds resonable to a rookie like me. But how's that related to #5 cylinder? Best regards Pelle - Original Message - From: Leo John Costigan To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( Pelle, you might want to check for a vacuum leak on the #8 intake runner and also check the #5 spark plug and compare it with the other three on the odd side of the engine. A vacuum leak will cause a cylinder to be lean and have a low exhaust temp. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( The primary tube on #8 cylinder is much colder than the rest! Haven't checked anything yet! What's your best bet? Best regardsPelle__Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/http://groups.msn.com/chevellegearheads/restorepics.msnw No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.4/424 - Release Date: 8/21/2006 No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.4/424 - Release Date: 8/21/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-(
Pelle, you might want to check for a vacuum leak on the #8 intake runner and also check the #5 spark plug and compare it with the other three on the odd side of the engine. A vacuum leak will cause a cylinder to be lean and have a low exhaust temp. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:28 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Cold primary on #8 :-( The primary tube on #8 cylinder is much colder than the rest! Haven't checked anything yet! What's your best bet? Best regardsPelle__Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/http://groups.msn.com/chevellegearheads/restorepics.msnw No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.4/424 - Release Date: 8/21/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Axle Code
Thanks for the information Jim. It is setup for coil springs and measures 54 3/8" between backing plates. It appears straight. No drums or brake parts. Thinking about install disk brakes and not interested in the drums. Leo - Original Message - From: "Jim H. Thompson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 5:55 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Axle Code 69 or 70 2:73 open rear. Most likely a series 2 carrier. If the housing is straight, buy it for the housing and axels only. Is it set up for coil or leaf springs? What is the length? Back of drum to back of drum. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Leo John Costigan Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 4:52 PM To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Axle Code I have come across a 12 bolt rear axle with a code of 'KDC 237 A'. I am having trouble de-coding it. Can anyone help? Thank you, Leo Costigan -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.6/338 - Release Date: 5/12/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] LOW OIL PRESSURE/solved?
Jeg's has a oil pump pickup retainer than clamps the pickup to the pump body. Part #555-23620, $9.99. I have used this part and have changed pickups and not had to change the pump bottom. You might try this. Leo - Original Message - From: "Jimmy C." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 1:48 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] LOW OIL PRESSURE/solved? thanks guys for the reply. I drained the oil , fished around the oil pan through the drain plug hole with a coat hanger and felt the oil pick-up laying (loosely)in the bottom of the pan. I'm guessing the best way to deal with it ,would be to yank the motor , put it back on the engine stand re-install the pick-up and try and get it welded in there. I'd like to hear what you guys think. thanks, Jimmy C. - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 4:18 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] LOW OIL PRESSURE Electric guage...no kinked line. But you may have put teflon on the sender threads...a piece of that in the sender can make the guage read as low as 0. I keep a spare mechanical guage around just to test things. Hopefully it is the guage or sending unit. Walt - Original Message - From: Mikey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tuesday, May 9, 2006 3:50 pm Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] LOW OIL PRESSURE Go with Eddie..we had the same problem & it turned out to be a pinchedoil line to the guage, I cut off the bad section ,reinstalled & it worked great. Mikey ---Original Message--- From: Eddie Bumgarner Date: 05/09/06 15:31:17 To: The Chevelle Mailing List Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] LOW OIL PRESSURE Check you gauge first, sometimes the gauge will be defected then check your oil pressure with another gauge, if it still remans low then seek professional help. It could be inside your oilling passages. good luck Eddie 66ss conv. "Jimmy C." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I put the chevelle on the road last thursday ,been driven around town I put about 75 miles freash rebuild, 454ci mild comp cam ,easy miles (3500rpm max) with 4 speed trans, everything was great. went to put it into the garage and noticed about 12 psi on the oil pressure gauge. shut it off thinking I was seeing things (praying). I started again fired right up no weird noisesidled nice, still read about 12 psi. gauges are new electric auto meter. is there a simple answer to this, what should I be looking for? Jimmy C. Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv. Yahoo! Mail goes everywhere you do. Get it on your phone. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.6/337 - Release Date: 5/11/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Axle Code
I have come across a 12 bolt rear axle with a code of 'KDC 237 A'. I am having trouble de-coding it. Can anyone help? Thank you, Leo Costigan
Re: [Chevelle-list] OT - Used "new" car warranty
The new owner needs to do the transfer of warranty. There will be a charge to him for this process. The old owner only needs to provide the information about the warranty for the new owner. It's not a problem and the new owner should have done the transfer at the time the vehicle was presented at the dealership. They should have guided him in the transfer. Not sure why they didn't unless the new owner expects you to pay for transfer! This has been done at my dealership with no problem and the warranty was performed and new owner sent on his way. Leo - Original Message - From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle List" Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 5:50 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] OT - Used "new" car warranty Has anyone sold a newer car that still has the factory warranty? Did you have to transfer the warranty to the new owner and if so, what did you have to do to transfer it? The reason I ask is I sold my Joe Gibb Silverado and within the first week the new owner lunched second gear. He took it to the dealer and was told he needs to transfer the warranty. I have no clue. Thanks. Herb Lumpp http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.5.1/327 - Release Date: 4/28/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires
I thought you said that you werent going to respond any more? - Original Message - From: vin To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 4:47 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires you guys are are a bunch of baby's - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 6:51 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires Sounds like this guy is his worst enemy. I'd bet he has a life degree in "insensitivity and ignorance." Just get him off the list. We don't need this. Sorry guys. I just had to chime in. "And yes Vin, we may not have an idea of your knowledge, but we have an idea of your intelligence"! Phil G. 65 SS -Original Message-From: vin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 14:22:18 -0500Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires if you can't take a little heat,then get up and leave, you guy's are so sensitive besides go fu--yourself. this chevelle list is like listening to a kindergarten class,don't worry I'll never reply again I don't need your help,you have no idea of my knowledge. - Original Message - From: Karl Groves To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires Regardless of whether his question was "dumb" or not, that doesn't give you a right to act like a dick. Give a helpful answer or delete the message and let someone else more mature give the answer. Karl GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.comWill Work For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3 From: vin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:47 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires you do engine work for 40 years and you need to ask the question should I use wire looms??? now you know why I said what I said. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:06 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires Hi Karl, I've been doing engine work for over 40 years and am just about to fire up my brand new 350. I was considering doing it without ignition wire looms but am now rethinking it. My ignorance about whether it would harm the silicone wires was easily cured by asking the Chevelle list, I keep my laptop in the garage while working there. Unfortunately, for Vin to learn punctuation and capitalization will require several years of middle school and high school English classes. Thanks for the help. Dennis - Original Message - From: Karl Groves To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' ; 'Dennis McGillis' Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 7:36 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires This, coming from the guy whose grammatical masterpieces include: "just drain the oil's and fuel start a new you'll be fine" "people are there worst enemy to them selves." and: "very cool---I've after being in auto bus. alot off stuff is interchangeable." or this wonderful, oh-so-cohesive treatise: http://chevelles.net/pipermail/chevelle-list_chevelles.net/2006-February/019368.html Really now. I think you have little room to be calling other people "the dumbest dumb people" when you can't manage basic grammar & spelling or form a cohesive thought. Was Dennis' question kind of "dumb"? Yeah, but he's probably new to this kind of stuff. You, on the other hand, are obviously an adult, yet you lack the intellectual fortitude to properly use homophones, which kids learn in 2nd grade. Don't be a dick when someone doesn't know something that you do. Ignore their question, or offer up a
Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires
Well said Trooper. - Original Message - From: Trooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires Well vin, your first response was brash and uncalled for. You then had a chance to redeem yourself with a short apology but you opted to be more rude, so you know the old saying. Don't let the door hit you in the --- on the way out. Trooper - Original Message - From: vin To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:22 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires if you can't take a little heat,then get up and leave, you guy's are so sensitive besides go fu--yourself. this chevelle list is like listening to a kindergarten class,don't worry I'll never reply again I don't need your help,you have no idea of my knowledge. - Original Message - From: Karl Groves To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:54 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires Regardless of whether his question was "dumb" or not, that doesn't give you a right to act like a dick. Give a helpful answer or delete the message and let someone else more mature give the answer. Karl GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.comWill Work For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3 From: vin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:47 PMTo: The Chevelle Mailing ListSubject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires you do engine work for 40 years and you need to ask the question should I use wire looms??? now you know why I said what I said. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 1:06 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires Hi Karl, I've been doing engine work for over 40 years and am just about to fire up my brand new 350. I was considering doing it without ignition wire looms but am now rethinking it. My ignorance about whether it would harm the silicone wires was easily cured by asking the Chevelle list, I keep my laptop in the garage while working there. Unfortunately, for Vin to learn punctuation and capitalization will require several years of middle school and high school English classes. Thanks for the help. Dennis - Original Message - From: Karl Groves To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' ; 'Dennis McGillis' Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 7:36 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-list] Silicone Plug Wires This, coming from the guy whose grammatical masterpieces include: "just drain the oil's and fuel start a new you'll be fine" "people are there worst enemy to them selves." and: "very cool---I've after being in auto bus. alot off stuff is interchangeable." or this wonderful, oh-so-cohesive treatise: http://chevelles.net/pipermail/chevelle-list_chevelles.net/2006-February/019368.html Really now. I think you have little room to be calling other people "the dumbest dumb people" when you can't manage basic grammar & spelling or form a cohesive thought. Was Dennis' question kind of "dumb"? Yeah, but he's probably new to this kind of stuff. You, on the other hand, are obviously an adult, yet you lack the intellectual fortitude to properly use homophones, which kids learn in 2nd grade. Don't be a dick when someone doesn't know something that you do. Ignore their question, or offer up a helpful answer. Karl GrovesMaster Certified CIWhttp://www.karlgroves.comWill Work For Parts:http://chevelle.karlcore.com/detail.php?id=3 From: vin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 9:57 AMTo: Dennis McGillis; The Chevell
Re: [Chevelle-list] Quick question!
The picture is of a dual pattern flexplate. Not sure of the tooth count, hard to count. Leo - Original Message - From: Pelle Andersson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 12:31 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quick question! Thank u guys! I just won a flexplate on a Swedish "bidding site" & a flexplate is what I want! But the box is saying "flywheel". I asked the guy if it's the flywheel IN the box he's selling or the flexplate ON TOP of the box ;-) Just to be sure! http://www.tradera.com/auction/auction.aspx?aid=25241702 Best Regards Pelle - Original Message - From: Shawn Price To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 9:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Quick question! Pelle, A flexplate is for an automatic transmission and is much lighter than a flywheel which is for a manual transmission. They both have the ring gear that the starter engages to turn the engine over. Shawn On Mar 13, 2006, at 3:02 PM, Pelle Andersson wrote: Hi! What's the difference between a flexplate & a flywheel? Best regardsPelle__Chevelle gearheadshttp://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/ No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.2.2/280 - Release Date: 3/13/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Pre-oiling a new SBC
Question, have you installed a test pressure gauge while priming the oil pump? Use the port adjacent to the distributor or the port above the oil filter. You should have above 30 psi while priming the pump with a drill motor. I have used a modified old distributor with the rotor part machined to look like the end of a drill bit. Turn the shaft in the same direction as the distributor rotates, clockwise looking down on the shaft. It does take from three to five minutes of spinning the pump shaft to get oil flow from the push rods. Leo - Original Message - From: Dennis McGillis To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Pre-oiling a new SBC Hi Guys, I'm still fighting the pre-oiler wars with my new crate 350. Several Chevelle List members helped me determine that a screwdriver shaft can't work since it needs a bushing to oil the upper galleries and valvetrain. So I bought a Proform "66896 Professional Oil Pump Primer with Bushing" at my local Speed Shop. Today I cranked it for a couple of minutes but still don't see any oil coming from the pushrod/rocker area. Am I missing something? It seems like it shouldn't be this difficult. No, there is not a big pool of oil under the car. Thanks, Dennis McGillis 1965 Malibu SS-350 No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.2.1/277 - Release Date: 3/8/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Psalm 23 (For the Work Place)
Thanks Clint. Leo - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 10:33 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Psalm 23 (For the Work Place) The spammer has been removed. Thanks,Admin. Clint HooperH&H Custom,owner1969 El Camino ProTourer2001 H-D FLHR custom baggerhttp://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I agree Clint. Enough!! Phil G. 65 SS -Original Message-From: Clint Hooper <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> That's enough of the spam,Joe. Take it somewhere else. Clint Hooper H&H Custom,owner 1969 El Camino ProTourer 2001 H-D FLHR custom bagger http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm - Original Message - From: "joehvelarde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <Chevelle-list@chevelles.net> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 5:11 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fw: Psalm 23 (For the Work Place) No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.23/243 - Release Date: 1/27/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] SBC
What you have basically is a 4 bolt main block with a 4 bore that is .010 over bore. Depending of the crankshaft you install you could have a 302, 327 or 350. Crankshaft stroke will determine the size of displacement for this casting. Good block for build. This 3970010 was first linked to a LT1 install in Corvettes and later used generally in different applications. Check the main bosses on the block. If there are other numbers besides 1,2,3,4 & 5 The block has been line-bored oversize. Most of the time the line bore will be back the factory specs, but there are exceptions. Your bock has been machined at least one time. Not a bad thing, the block has been seasoned well and should not have problems with shifting of main or bore alignment. Hope this helps you. Leo - Original Message - From: Jimmy C. To: Chevelle Forum Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] SBC Hey to the list, Hope everyone had a Happy Christmas a Great Holiday and the New Year is starting out right ! I have a SBC motor and I can't figure out what it is ? The cast #3970010 when I looked it up it lists three different possibilities "1969" 302ci 4-blt main , "62-67"327ci 2-blt ,or "69-80" 350ci 2or4 blt main. then I went and tried to find the casting date(on rear ledge passenger side) which I think is H 1 87 - August, 1, 1987 . the stamped assembly date would seem to confirm this,V0827 CHF V= Flint, MI-08=August, 27=day (26 days after being cast) if this is correct? can anybody tell me what size motor I have or where I need to look to find later than "1980" casting number listings. thanks in advance, Jimmy.C ps .010 is also cast in larger numbers next to the freeze plugs on both sides of the block. No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.14/222 - Release Date: 1/5/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] Frame Mounts
The difference is that you are able to use motor mounts that have the interlocking feature. The indent provides the necessary clearance for the addition of the interlocking parts that the standard mounts for the SB. The interlocking mounts were introduced with the big block and keep from tearing the rubber part of the non locking mounts. Added safety for any motor. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 8:07 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fram Mounts I have a 65 that had the SBC mounts. I bought the BBC Frame mounts thinking they were different. They are the same height, size, use the same motor mounts, etc... The only difference is that the big block ones have an indent, that appears to do nothing. As far as a '65 goes. You can use the same mounts for either BBC or SBC. Physically they are the same, cosmetically they are different. http://65ss.com/images/engine/06052004pic8.jpg Charles 65ss.com - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 5:26 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fram Mounts In a message dated 1/2/2006 6:21:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: So what you are saying here Tom is that the frame mounts are the same, but the motor mounts would be different?Thanks Joe P. 307's use their own frame and motor mounts. If you put any other small block (350, 400) in an original 307 car, you need to use 307 mounts as they bolt right up to a 350. If you want to put a big block (396/454/502) in an original 307 car, you need to change the frame mounts. If you have an original 350 car, or an original big block car, you can use the original frame mounts to put in any small block other than a 307 or big block. Tom No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition.Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.10/218 - Release Date: 1/2/2006
Re: [Chevelle-list] El Camino
While not buying an El Camino on e-bay, I did buy a 1994 Caprice S/W located in the Birmingham, Alabama area. I paid the down through PayPal and sent the balance via bank transfer. I flew the Birmingham and the seller met my wife and I at the airport. We completed the transaction and drove the S/W back the California with no problems at all. The average fuel mileage was 26.8 until I started using fuel blended for California. Now my average is 14.4 with best at 18.9. I had looked on e-bay for over 6 months before selecting this one. Most of the listing on e-bay were deceiving and the pictures were blurred and fuzzy or did not show the vehicle in good frames. You need to look beyond what the seller is describing and trying to not to tell. Leo - Original Message - From: Ron Malespin To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Friday, September 09, 2005 1:17 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] El Camino Thanks for bringing this up Marlon. I searched and searched for a 67 and found one on ebay. I flew to Oklahoma City. I had already sent a $2k down pay and lined up a shipper. I had the rest of the pay in hand when I got there. The car was ok but I wrote a list of 23 things wrong for what was advertised as a complete restore. It was a disaster. I declined the buy and asked for my down pay back. I ended up going back again to take them to small claims for the down pay. I lost. Yes, beware of ebay and used car salesman. I found my beautiful 67 30 mi. down the road for a tremendous price. What you see on ebay and what you get are sometimes 40 miles apart. Ron M. 67 Malibu. - Original Message - From: Marlon Hanson To: The Chevelle Mailing List Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 10:04 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] El Camino Be cautious on ebay and with paypal. The paypal guarantee is a complete fraud. I bought a 51 Chevy pickup that was described as "motor runs fine" and listed over a dozen new parts, even saying new transmission oil. When it came time to have shipped he (named Brad Dewitt from Colorado- in case he ever tries to take you for a ride) said he hadn't messed with it for years and it would have to be winched on trailer. We filed complaint under paypal guarantee policy and they basically said tough sh.t that we should read their guarantee very closely, apparently admitting it's total worthlessness.Chuck Speake <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I was looking on Ebay and other car sale locations and did not see very manyor no 1970 El Camino's. Are these rare, or are people just holding ontothem more than other years? All of you El Camino guys have kind of got myinterest up. I think my final dream is a three pack. This would include mycurrent 70 Malibu, a 70 Chevelle convertible, and now a 70 El Camino tofinish off the set. Does anyone have an idea of the average cost of a 70 ElCamino in probably an 8-9 condition range out of 10? I may change my mindand go for the El Camino for the next car instead of the convertible. Chuck Speake70 Chevelle MalibuGlen Ellyn, IL No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.19/93 - Release Date: 9/8/2005
Re: [Chevelle-list] p/s pressure hose
John, below is an explation of the pressures and construction of the Powerfles hose. "Powerflex stainless steel braided hose, specifically designed for high performance brake and power steering applications, features the combination of a Teflon inner liner with the corrosion and abrasion resistance of stainless steel braid for maximum pressure use up to 2500 psi. Teflon inner liner with a 308 stainless steel braid. Use with Endura Powerflex Hose Ends"
Re: [Chevelle-list] p/s pressure hose
John, you might consider using stainless steel lines. I used Russells Powerflex hose & ends for my 65 El Camino P/S. The lines were easy to make up and really look good. It cost around $50 for the parts. The Powerflex hose is made for P/S and brake lines. I used 6 for the P/S. I also have made up lines for the brake lines as well. No problem with pressure. Just a thought. Leo - Original Message - From: John Nasta To: The Chevelle Mailing List Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 6:45 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] p/s pressure hose I spoke w/a guy who can make a new hose for me w/ the right ends but he asked me how many pounds of pressure it had to hold, and I had to tell him that I really didnt know. So, if anybody knows, that would be great. I also tried to bend the tubing on the one I bought yesterday. It's not really easy to bend w/ a hand bender because there is not much there to work with. The original one goes out of the pump about a half inch or an inch out, and then straight down with a curve toward the p/s box. The new one comes out and then goes down on about a 45 degree angle, and the end that attaches to the box has no bend at all, whereas the original has a 90 degree bend. Totally different. I think if I can bend it down enough though (at least on the pump side), I think I can make it work. I didnt want to take this hose, but the guy I got it from argued that it would work because it shows in his computer and blah blah blah. He said that they take out some of the bends so that it will fit more vehicles. He actually came over and watched me try to install it, and saw for himself that it doesn't fit. I told him that what they really should do if they want to make these hoses more universal is to put less metal tubing on the ends and more rubber in the middle. This thing has about 5 inches of metal sticking out of each end, and aiming in the wrong directions. Anyway, if anybody knows the psi that the pump put out, that would be great. With a little luck though, I will get this other hose to work and get my p/s back today. No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.18/89 - Release Date: 9/2/2005
[Chevelle-list] Re: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 25, Issue 82
Also Joining .. Leo Giamboni , Sao Paulo Brazil, Chevy Malibu 1968, blue, 2 doors , cool Rgds Leo - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2005 5:24 PM Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 25, Issue 82 Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to Chevelle-list@chevelles.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: List Membership (Rick Schaefer) 2. Re: John Nasta?? (Rick Schaefer) 3. RE: Trailered vs. Non-Trailered Cars at shows (Wayne Kline) 4. Re: List Membership (Clint Hooper) 5. RE: Re: Gas Prices (Wayne Kline) 6. RE: Paint (Chuck Speake) 7. Re: Paint (Ron Malespin) 8. Re: Trailered vs. Non-Trailered Cars at shows ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) 9. Re: Paint ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) ___ Chevelle-list mailing list Chevelle-list@chevelles.net http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
[Chevelle-list] Traffic
Sure is quite tonight.
Re: [Chevelle-list] Wheels for disc brakes
The drawing is good an example of the problem and you have the idea of what I am trying to say. In the early years of front disk brakes GM made some 14" wheels that were made for disk brakes. Most were for 4 wheel drum brakes and would not work on front disks. 14" wheels will work on for disk brakes but you have to look at the area form the inside bead to the mounting flange and make sure that it is flat. Leo - Original Message - From: "Bill Lessenberry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 7:05 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Wheels for disc brakes > At 08:47 PM 2/3/2005, you wrote: > >For what it worth, you need to check the shape of the inner wheel for the > >inside bead to the mounting flange. > > > >If it is flat, then the wheel should work. > > > >If the wheel steps down towards the center axis then you are going to have a > >problem with the caliper not clearing. > > > >Back spacing is not the large problem in clearing the caliper. The step > >down will always contact the caliper no mater how much back spacing there > >is. > > > >14" wheels are the big problem with caliper contact in the inner wheel area. > >15" and larger wheels will clear the caliper. > > > >Leo > > > This will be a crummy drawing, but it this what you mean? > > __ _ >\ \ > l l > \Bad l Good > l l > l l > > Thanks, > > BL > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/05 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/05
Re: [Chevelle-list] Wheels for disc brakes
For what it worth, you need to check the shape of the inner wheel for the inside bead to the mounting flange. If it is flat, then the wheel should work. If the wheel steps down towards the center axis then you are going to have a problem with the caliper not clearing. Back spacing is not the large problem in clearing the caliper. The step down will always contact the caliper no mater how much back spacing there is. 14" wheels are the big problem with caliper contact in the inner wheel area. 15" and larger wheels will clear the caliper. Leo -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/05
Re: [Chevelle-list] Posi Lube color?
You are so wrong that there is no Posi gear lube. It has been on the market for about 15 to 20 years. Standard oil markets it, Quaker state markets it, and GM markets it in 1-quart containers. GM part # 1052271 80W-90 Rear axle lube. GM part # 1052358 Limited slip differential lube additive. The additive is used with the rear axle lube is severe cases where the stick slip symptom is heard. Quaker state weight of the lube is 75-90 and is green is color. Brown or dark brown color means that the fluid is burnt and needs changing, as it can no longer provide adequate lubrication for the bearings or gears. You need to change the rear fluid, and then find parking lot where you can drive in figure 8 patterns for about 10 to 20 times. This will work the new fluid into the clutch and disk plate in the posi. You may need to change the fluid again and repeat above after 500 miles. Good luck. Leo - Original Message - From: "Krister Meister" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 10:52 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Posi Lube color? > > > > > Checked my posi rear end fluid level - it was fine as some seeped out when > the plug was removed. The color was a very dark brown - is this a normal > color for posi rear end lube. Everything else appears to work fine. May > be I am just used to standard gear lube being light colored. > > Krister Meister > Bloomingdale, IL > '66 #'s matching > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Cleaning spark plug wires
Use silicone spray. It will clean the wires and leave them resistant to moisture. Take a shop rag and lay the wire in the rag, spray both and pull the wire back and forth through the wet rag. You can also spay the inside of the distributor cap to clear moisture and water. Good after cleaning engine compartment at car wash. - Original Message - From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Chevelle List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2004 11:40 AM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Cleaning spark plug wires > Ok, I know this is probably going to sound dumb, but has anyone cleaned > their plug wires before? What did you use? I was going to wipe them down > with WD40 but figured the oil residue would attract more dirt. Since > they're off the engine (I had to replace a burnt boot) I'm now thinking > bucket of soap and water. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. > > Herb Lumpp > http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm > >
Re: [Chevelle-list] Re:I wish you the best on your CAR, BUT.
- Original Message - From: "e24c41" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 1:09 PM Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re:I wish you the best on your CAR, BUT. > As a years ago single parent, I hope your parents are proud of you. > In fact I get the feeling that you might have more common sense than a lot of Dysfunctional 2 year old s (Commonly called Spoiled Brat Syndrome)in America. We have a Bunch of them in the White House right now. > I still did not find any answers to my ? Back window 72 Malibu (Glue or Gasquet? > Again thank you for just being what Indians call a HUMAN BEING. > El [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ___ Chevelle-list mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://chevelles.net/mailman/listinfo/chevelle-list_chevelles.net
Re: [Chevelle-List] I'm back...
More lightweights, 38 years next month, it only seems like 50. Lightwieghts 30 + years here larry (Z( - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] 'Tis better to have raced and lost Than never to have raced at all. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] PG tranny linkage needed
Send me an address and I'll ship the whole thing to you, I just converted to a TH350. Hi guys, I wanted to see if anyone had any linkage for a 2-spd powerglide transmission lying around before I went on to scour the web for it. I have the linkage that allows you to put the car in drive, reverse, etc, but was advised that I am missing the kickdown linkage (?). I know it's the linkage that allows the tranny to downshift when you get on it, but I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Any help would be greatly appreciated- Regards, Jim '66 Malibu __ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] Alfred Tennyson wrote: 'Tis better to have loved and lost Than never to have loved at all. The same can be applied to racing as well: 'Tis better to have raced and lost Than never to have raced at all. - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] HELP! Timing or what?
When both marks are pointing at each other, that is #6 at TDC. When both marks are pointing straight up, that is #1 at TDC. It sounds as you set the timing up with both marks pointing at each other and set the distributor to #1 Cyl. That would be 180 degrees out of timing. With everything back together, remove #1 Spark plug and turn the engine over until you feel pressure and then watch the timing mark on the balancer and stop when the mark on the balancer and the timing tab are set to 0 degrees. Rest the distributor to #1 cyl, lock it down, start eng and then set timing with timing light. You should be ok. Leo - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 2:15 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] HELP! Timing or what? Hey Listers, I have another problem. OK, I recently replaced my timing chain and the big/top sprocket. It was the actual sprocket that was messed up. The teeth were all eaten away. Now I try to start my Chevelle and it will start, but it coughs something fierce with gas spurting on the carb at every cough. I align the two gear notches as required and put the front cover back on. Today I loosen the distributor and had a friend start it as I turn the distributor. I sounds a LITTLE better but still coughs and spits gas from the carb. What else should I do? I changed plugs today -- no real difference -- any suggestions?C. Campbell - Detroit, MI.'70 Chevelle Malibu 4 dr., 307, originalDetroit Chevelle Club email --> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] In Shock
I have a 66 4 door, Socal car no rust 283 th350 lets talk. - Original Message - From: "jason pollock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 7:46 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] In Shock List, I just found out my wife is pregnant with kid # 2. Anybody want too trade a 64/67 wagon for a 66 El Camino.??? I am in shock, Jason Pollock - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Tis better to have raced and lost than never to have raced." - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Exhaust Pipe Diameter
Sound like a good combination, remember one of the factors in mufflers and noise is the number of cylinders per muffler, duals on a V8 will be noisier than the same muffler with all 8 flowing thought it. Hey all, I am building an exhaust system for my 67 with a 250-I6. I have headers, with 1 1/2 x 36 main tubes, into 2 1/2 x 5 collectors. What do I do to determine the best pipe size? cn I run 2 1/2 all the way back, or would that cause nasty side effects? I'm considering a Flowmaster 70-series muffler (#52573, offset/offset 2 1/2 in and out.) Erring on the side of quieter rather than louder would be preferable. If I can, running the headers into a y-pipe, then to the muffler would be the easiest, seeing as the collectors and the muffler both accept 2 1/2" pipe. Any thoughts? Dave. -- www.swingvictoria.com - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] El Camino Rear Suspension
I purchased my 70 El Camino Custom in 69 and added SS package. It came with braces and rear sway bar. Built in Van Nuys, California. Leo - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] New GTO pics - four door, V6, FWD pieces of crap
I have one to those four door, V6, FWD pieces of crap. 1989 Pontiac SSE 3800. 212,000 miles now. Brakes, tires, alternator, water pump, wiper blades and battery have been the only maintenance done. I look forward for 300,000 and will see where I will go from there. The General has done fine with this one. Leo - Original Message - From: Clint Hooper To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 1:24 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] New GTO pics - what has happened to our beloved A-bodycousin? I agree with Dwight. GM started going downhill fast when they started concentrating on building four door, V6, FWD pieces of crap. Ever wonder why truck sales took off after that? Clint HooperLT5 Registry DirectorWichita Falls,Tx(940) 855-6636'91 ZR-1 Callaway AerobodyTX TAGS: USA ZR1http://www.LT5Registry.net/'69 El Camino ProTourer'99 Honda F6 Valkyrie custom - Original Message - From: Dwight Fulton To be honest, I welcome any RWD offering from GM as long as it's RWD & V8 powered. What they call it doesn't matter. How it performs does. Calling this "Aussy" a GTO is one thing but, it will never be a GOAT. Same goes for GM producing a new"Chevelle", it will never compare to a SS396 or SS454. Dwight 72 Elky
Re: [Chevelle-List] 65 EC from Hollywood Knights
How good a photo do you need, I have the tape/dvd and could scan the frame an send it to you. Greetings, Does anyone know where I can locate photos of the 65 El Camino from Hollywood Knights? Any help appreciated! Dan Raburn - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Tis better to have raced and lost than never to have raced." - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Tubular upper A Arms for less - if we getenough orders.
Put me down for 1 set, Leo Baker 66 4 door, 283 PG. Gents, There is a manufacturer of solid tubular A arms for 55-57 Chevys that sells them for under $250 for a pair. I talked to a retailer that carries those and he contacted the manufacturer. The manufacturer is interested in making them for Chevelles if he can get an order of 20 or more. This list is the only place I know where we could possibly get 20 or more orders. Other places are selling the same thing for well over $450 a pair. We would be saving around $200 a pair on these. Again, they are currently manufacturing and selling for 55-57's Chevys and advertising in a large magazine. Would enough of you be interested? Steve - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Tis better to have raced and lost than never to have raced." - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Flowmaster install
For what its worth, I installed the Flowmaster kit for the El Camino on my 70. I installed it in my driveway and it fit like a dream. The H pipe and all pipes are above the frame rails, dont drag. The two pipes that connect to the headers are adjustable and need to be cut to fit. I used a regular pipe cutter for plumbing pipe, three wheels that role around the pipe to be cut. I used the band type clamps from Dynomax. The system came with all hardware and hangers to install. I substituted the Dynomax clamps for the regular muffler clamps. Other than that you got everything needed to install. Leo - Original Message - From: "John Nasta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 11:01 AM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Flowmaster install > Thanks Tom, > > Yeah, I see that kit and I can get a deal on it myself directly from > Flowmaster. The nice thing about the El Camino kit (17120) is that it comes > with the stainless exhaust tips and is pre-bent to exit behind the rear > wheel wells. All nicey nicey when done. I guess I'll go that route. It's > probably the most efficient and probably even less expensive than buying the > mufflers and then paying a shop to bend pipes (and I won't have to worry > about trusting some shop mechanic with my newly restored car). > > Thanks for the info. I'm glad to hear that it fits well and installs easily. > > John Nasta > > > -Original Message- > > > John > > Flowmaster makes a kit you can bolt directly up. It's called the American > Thinder System. It's a 2.5" H-pipe setup, you can get it with or w/o the > mufflers. i have it on my 70 and it fit very nice. I had the whole thing > installed in about an hour. Any good muffler shop can do the job if you > take > them the new mufflers. It may be cheaper if you get the shop to get them, > ya > never know, they may get them at wholesale cost. I ordered my setup from > Jeg's and did it on the weekend in my garage. > > Tom > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Crate Motors/water pumps???
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Before I order a motor from GM, 330Hp 350cid, can you use the short water pump with the latest motors, if you order the delux motor it comes with a long pump. I sure would like to save the time and expense and not have to change all the brackets. -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Tis better to have raced and lost than never to have raced." - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Header questions small block
Title: Re: [Chevelle-List] Header questions small block http://www.sandersonheaders.com Does sanderson have a web site? Larry (z) -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Tis better to have raced and lost than never to have raced."
[Chevelle-List] Header questions small block
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List Has anyone used Sanderson cast iron headers? How about Brzezinski cast and ported manifolds? -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Tis better to have raced and lost than never to have raced." - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] "El Camino Real"
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List That is exactly where the two end missions are! - Original Message - From: "396guy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 2:50 PM Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] "El Camino Real" > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > According to the California Highways official web page > (http://www.pacificnet.net/~faigin/CA-HWYS/elcamino.html), "El Camino Real" > means "The King's Highway". Eighth grade Spanish was a l-o-n-g time ago, > but that was the name of our Spanish book, and I thought it was "The King's > Highway" and wanted to research it. El Camino Real runs from San Diego to > Sonoma. > > Dale > > > -Original Message- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Leo John > > Costigan > > Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 12:38 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: [Chevelle-List] "El Camino Real" > > > > > > > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "Kelly C. Hanna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 1:15 PM > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] test picture > > > > > > > > > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > > > > > > > > >ECC where "The Road" begins, El Camino means "The Road". > > > > > > Yessir, it doesfitting name for a great ride. Mine loves > > the highway! > > > They got the name for it from the "El Camino Real" which means > > "the royal > > > road". If memory serves right it's the name of one of the heaviest > > > travelled trails to Mexico city (or somewhere thereabouts in the days > > > before real roads). > > > > > > > > > Kelly C. Hanna > > > www.hannawoodworks.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - > > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] "El Camino Real"
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List - Original Message - From: "Kelly C. Hanna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 1:15 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] test picture > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > >ECC where "The Road" begins, El Camino means "The Road". > > Yessir, it doesfitting name for a great ride. Mine loves the highway! > They got the name for it from the "El Camino Real" which means "the royal > road". If memory serves right it's the name of one of the heaviest > travelled trails to Mexico city (or somewhere thereabouts in the days > before real roads). > > > Kelly C. Hanna > www.hannawoodworks.com > > > > > > > > > > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] "El Camino Real"
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List "El Camino Real" was the connection between the missions of California. Starting in the south at Mission San Diego de Alcalá and ending in the north at Mission San Fransisco Solano. Which is north of what is now San Francisco in Solano, California. - Original Message ----- From: "Leo John Costigan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 10:37 AM Subject: [Chevelle-List] "El Camino Real" > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Kelly C. Hanna" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2002 1:15 PM > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] test picture > > > > > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > > > > > > >ECC where "The Road" begins, El Camino means "The Road". > > > > Yessir, it doesfitting name for a great ride. Mine loves the highway! > > They got the name for it from the "El Camino Real" which means "the royal > > road". If memory serves right it's the name of one of the heaviest > > travelled trails to Mexico city (or somewhere thereabouts in the days > > before real roads). > > > > > > Kelly C. Hanna > > www.hannawoodworks.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > - > > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > - > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Chevelle-List] Rally Wheel supplier
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List An recommendations for after market rally wheels, 15 X 8 or 16 X 8 ? -- Leo Baker Network Janitor University of San Diego [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Tis better to have raced and lost than never to have raced." - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Online petition-Resignation of Barbara Lee (coward)
Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List - Original Message - From: "Eugene Flack" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 3:49 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Online petition-Resignation of Barbara Lee (coward) > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List > > > I'm number 154. > > Gene > 71 Chevelle > > > next she'll want to do away with our cars. > She already has! - To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery
I used the yellow top battery for my application. I have a 70 El Camino that I installed a complete engine and transmission out of a 1992 Camaro Z28. 5.7 Vin '8' and a 4L60 trans. Was able to get complete access to everything needed from radiator to gas tank. The yellow top is a deep cycle type and it has been in for two years now without problems. Here in central California the temp does get into the 100's but does cool down in the evening. I have A/C and do use it. This is a daily driver so it does get the short shut downs and restarts. I am using the '92 starter. I have not had the hard starting problem associated with a hot soak condition. I also have a decent stereo with high drain on battery and charging system. One thing that I added to the charging system was the Iceberg high output conversion that JCW sells for the alternator, about $100.00 or so. Gives the alternator about 140 amps of output. Not sure but I think that the yellow top should work for you. Summit and Jeggs have them for about $170.00 + shipping. Leo - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 12:34 AM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery thanks Leo, I have already tried their website, but I can't find anywhere on there the info that I need. I did use the battery locator program they have, but they say I only need like 750 cca and I want the most powerful battery they've got. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ - Original Message - From: Leo Costigan To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:59 PM Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery Rodney, try this link, http://www.optimabatteries.com/ , you may find more about this series of battery's. A lot more information. Leo - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:24 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery Ok guys... I've been researching an Optima battery I went into Desert Rat (local 4x4 shop) to buy a red top Optima. Well, it turns out they have different power levels of the red top (which the Optima site doesn't say anything about). I told the guy it was going in a Chevelle and he said he was out of stock right now, but they'll be in Wed. (tomorrow). So I said okay and proceeded to call Firestones and some other places.. I'll never buy anything from a Firestone here in town... what a bunch of morons working there. I called one and asked the guy if he sold Optima batteries and he says "we don't sell many of those. hold on and let me see if we have any." So he comes back. Ya, we have one. I said how much? and he says "h I'd have to make a phone call to find out for sure, but I think they're like $169". I said goodbye quickly I called a few more Firestones and they were all pretty much morons... Anyways, back to the point... I went to CostCo today to see how much theirs are and they're only $99 compared to $129 at Desert Rat... the only thing is Desert Rat shows their Optima as having 1250 cranking amps (see http://www.desertrat.com/optimbat/optima.htm) and the CostCo shows theirs as like 980 or something like that. So, I've done a web search and I can't find any place else at all who advertises a 1250 cranking amp Optima. Does anyone have a clue about this? Does Desert Rat just have a new improved Optima and everyone else is selling old stock or what? Thanks for any help. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ
Re: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery
Rodney, try this link, http://www.optimabatteries.com/ , you may find more about this series of battery's. A lot more information. Leo - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 10:24 PM Subject: [Chevelle-List] Optima battery Ok guys... I've been researching an Optima battery I went into Desert Rat (local 4x4 shop) to buy a red top Optima. Well, it turns out they have different power levels of the red top (which the Optima site doesn't say anything about). I told the guy it was going in a Chevelle and he said he was out of stock right now, but they'll be in Wed. (tomorrow). So I said okay and proceeded to call Firestones and some other places.. I'll never buy anything from a Firestone here in town... what a bunch of morons working there. I called one and asked the guy if he sold Optima batteries and he says "we don't sell many of those. hold on and let me see if we have any." So he comes back. Ya, we have one. I said how much? and he says "h I'd have to make a phone call to find out for sure, but I think they're like $169". I said goodbye quickly I called a few more Firestones and they were all pretty much morons... Anyways, back to the point... I went to CostCo today to see how much theirs are and they're only $99 compared to $129 at Desert Rat... the only thing is Desert Rat shows their Optima as having 1250 cranking amps (see http://www.desertrat.com/optimbat/optima.htm) and the CostCo shows theirs as like 980 or something like that. So, I've done a web search and I can't find any place else at all who advertises a 1250 cranking amp Optima. Does anyone have a clue about this? Does Desert Rat just have a new improved Optima and everyone else is selling old stock or what? Thanks for any help. Rodney. 71 Chevelle Phoenix, AZ
