Re: [Chevelle-list] question 400 SBC

[Tom Rightler]

MOST small block 400's have 3 freeze plugs per side, but early ones have
2.  All small block 400's are externally balanced and will have a
weighted 168 tooth flexplate or flywheel as well as a weighted balancer.
 
Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor
http://www.mdchevelleclub.com
-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of
harkema...@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 10:16 PM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] question 400 SBC
 
i was going to look at a 400 SBC and wondered the "signs" that it is a
400--i think one is a weighted flywheel? 

thanks!
Harlan 




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Re: [Chevelle-list] Question for a 68-72 Convertible A Body expert

[Dan Solomon]

Thanks! That is perfect.

Dan

 
"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry."
http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/





 


From: rgr...@cableone.net
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 10:28:19 -0600
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Question for a 68-72 Convertible A Body expert





This link is to the photo from OPG’s online catalog.  If this is not exactly 
what you need, they have photo’s of most parts they sell on their website 
OPGI.com.
 
http://www.opgi.com/ebproductshowdetail.asp?GrpCode=11623&ProdCode=2200K19
 
 


From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dan Solomon
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 4:28 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question for a 68-72 Convertible A Body expert
 

I am putting together a 72 Chevelle convertible that I purchased disassembled. 
I went to install the rear view mirror and am missing the bracket that attaches 
the mirror to the header panel. Anyone have a photo of this bracket, I might 
have it and not realize it. Anyone know of a source if I cant find it?

 

Thanks, Dan

 

"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a hurry."
http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question for a 68-72 Convertible A Body expert

[Ron Griffith]

This link is to the photo from OPG's online catalog.  If this is not exactly
what you need, they have photo's of most parts they sell on their website
OPGI.com.

 

http://www.opgi.com/ebproductshowdetail.asp?GrpCode=11623

&ProdCode=2200K19

 

 

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dan Solomon
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 4:28 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question for a 68-72 Convertible A Body expert

 

I am putting together a 72 Chevelle convertible that I purchased
disassembled. I went to install the rear view mirror and am missing the
bracket that attaches the mirror to the header panel. Anyone have a photo of
this bracket, I might have it and not realize it. Anyone know of a source if
I cant find it?

 

Thanks, Dan

 

"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a
hurry."
http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/

Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...

[Jim H. Thompson]

Losing power sounds like it is starving for fuel. Have you changed the fuel
filter? A dirty air cleaner will do the same thing.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eduardo (Eddie)
Gamino
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 6:57 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...

Well, I have a 350 transmission, 12 bolt 3.42 gears rear end, and front disc
brakes.  Another thing I am having problems with the car is that it tends to
lose power at one point and then the car turns off and It starts up right
away and then feels like it loses power again.  Is it cause I'm losing
vacuum like you said?  I don't know.  Can I see and feel the cam's lobes if
there damaged?  It seems like I will need to just buy a whole kit with
everything together to be sure and more accurate.

> - Original Message -
> From: Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:29:05 -0500
> 
> 
> I would never replace one without the other myself since each lifter and
cam
> lobe become 'wear mated' to each other.
> 
> You should always use the appropriate lifter type for the camshaft.  That
> is, you shouldn't run flat tappet solid or roller lifters on a cam
designed
> for flat tappet hydraulic lifters.  You don't necessarily have to use the
> same cam manufacturer's lifters with their cam but regardless of what type
> lifter it's made for (solid or hydraulic flat tappet, or solid or
hydraulic
> roller) you need to use the correct type lifter for the camshaft.  Be
aware
> many cam manufacturers may void any warranty on their camshaft if you use
> another manufacturer's lifters.
> 
> A 'high performance' cam is kinda like the old '3/4 race' cam terminology.
> 'High performance' compared to what?  A 'high performance' 283/327 cam may
> be a very mild cam for a 350.  Since it's mainly a street car, regardless
of
> the manufacturer you go with, I'd stick with their recommendation for an
> application and maybe even the lower end of multiple selections.  Look at
> your car's weight, transmission & rear end gear type/ratio, and where you
do
> most of your driving (RPM range).  If you have power brakes, engine vacuum
> is also another thing to take into consideration.  Watch out for 'high
> performance' cams that result in a loss of engine vacuum, hence vacuum for
> power brakes.
> 
> It's easy to get carried away and 'over cam' your engine due to enthusiasm
> and costs being about the same.
> 
> Dale McIntosh
> ChevelleCD.com
> ChevelleStuff.com
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:chevelle-list-
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino
> > Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 5:53 PM
> > To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> > Subject: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...
> >
> > Hey guys I need your help.  I am in the process of replacing my existing
> > lifters because there is a bad clicking noise, which doesn't go away.
My
> > brother in law had re-tightened the rockers, but the clicking doesn't go
> > away.  So he suggested that there might be a bad lifter and for me to
buy
> > new lifters especially to buy the roller lifters.  I bought my 1970
> > chevelle 350 about 4 years ago and I don't really know of what
> > modifications were done in the engine.  For one thing I know there is a
> > high performance cam, with HEI ignition, headers dual exhaust, holly
carb.
> > My car is for street use only, no track.
> >
> > Do I need to match the lifters to my cam?  If I don't need to, What type
> > of lifters should I buy?  What brand is best to get?  Also, I read in a
> > forum from a website that you can't install new lifters with a used cam
> > because you will do more damage, Is this true?  If true, then do I need
to
> > buy a new cam with new lifters altogether?  thanks
> > -Eddie
> >
> > --
> > Be Yourself @ mail.com!
> > Choose From 200+ Email Addresses
> > Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
> >
> >

>


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Get a Free Account at www.mail.com

Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...

[Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino]

Well, I have a 350 transmission, 12 bolt 3.42 gears rear end, and front disc 
brakes.  Another thing I am having problems with the car is that it tends to 
lose power at one point and then the car turns off and It starts up right away 
and then feels like it loses power again.  Is it cause I'm losing vacuum like 
you said?  I don't know.  Can I see and feel the cam's lobes if there damaged?  
It seems like I will need to just buy a whole kit with everything together to 
be sure and more accurate.

> - Original Message -
> From: Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:29:05 -0500
> 
> 
> I would never replace one without the other myself since each lifter and cam
> lobe become 'wear mated' to each other.
> 
> You should always use the appropriate lifter type for the camshaft.  That
> is, you shouldn't run flat tappet solid or roller lifters on a cam designed
> for flat tappet hydraulic lifters.  You don't necessarily have to use the
> same cam manufacturer's lifters with their cam but regardless of what type
> lifter it's made for (solid or hydraulic flat tappet, or solid or hydraulic
> roller) you need to use the correct type lifter for the camshaft.  Be aware
> many cam manufacturers may void any warranty on their camshaft if you use
> another manufacturer's lifters.
> 
> A 'high performance' cam is kinda like the old '3/4 race' cam terminology.
> 'High performance' compared to what?  A 'high performance' 283/327 cam may
> be a very mild cam for a 350.  Since it's mainly a street car, regardless of
> the manufacturer you go with, I'd stick with their recommendation for an
> application and maybe even the lower end of multiple selections.  Look at
> your car's weight, transmission & rear end gear type/ratio, and where you do
> most of your driving (RPM range).  If you have power brakes, engine vacuum
> is also another thing to take into consideration.  Watch out for 'high
> performance' cams that result in a loss of engine vacuum, hence vacuum for
> power brakes.
> 
> It's easy to get carried away and 'over cam' your engine due to enthusiasm
> and costs being about the same.
> 
> Dale McIntosh
> ChevelleCD.com
> ChevelleStuff.com
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:chevelle-list-
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino
> > Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 5:53 PM
> > To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> > Subject: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...
> >
> > Hey guys I need your help.  I am in the process of replacing my existing
> > lifters because there is a bad clicking noise, which doesn't go away.  My
> > brother in law had re-tightened the rockers, but the clicking doesn't go
> > away.  So he suggested that there might be a bad lifter and for me to buy
> > new lifters especially to buy the roller lifters.  I bought my 1970
> > chevelle 350 about 4 years ago and I don't really know of what
> > modifications were done in the engine.  For one thing I know there is a
> > high performance cam, with HEI ignition, headers dual exhaust, holly carb.
> > My car is for street use only, no track.
> >
> > Do I need to match the lifters to my cam?  If I don't need to, What type
> > of lifters should I buy?  What brand is best to get?  Also, I read in a
> > forum from a website that you can't install new lifters with a used cam
> > because you will do more damage, Is this true?  If true, then do I need to
> > buy a new cam with new lifters altogether?  thanks
> > -Eddie
> >
> > --
> > Be Yourself @ mail.com!
> > Choose From 200+ Email Addresses
> > Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
> >
> >

>


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Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...

[Tom Rightler]

I suggest to check the lift on EACH and EVERY valve before tearing it apart. 
You may have a wiped out camshaft lobe. If that is the case, you will need a 
whole cam kit.


Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor

- Original Message - 
From: "Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 6:53 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...


Hey guys I need your help.  I am in the process of replacing my existing 
lifters because there is a bad clicking noise, which doesn't go away.  My 
brother in law had re-tightened the rockers, but the clicking doesn't go 
away.  So he suggested that there might be a bad lifter and for me to buy 
new lifters especially to buy the roller lifters.  I bought my 1970 chevelle 
350 about 4 years ago and I don't really know of what modifications were 
done in the engine.  For one thing I know there is a high performance cam, 
with HEI ignition, headers dual exhaust, holly carb.  My car is for street 
use only, no track.


Do I need to match the lifters to my cam?  If I don't need to, What type of 
lifters should I buy?  What brand is best to get?  Also, I read in a forum 
from a website that you can't install new lifters with a used cam because 
you will do more damage, Is this true?  If true, then do I need to buy a new 
cam with new lifters altogether?  thanks

-Eddie

--
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6:55 PM

Re: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...

[Dale]

I would never replace one without the other myself since each lifter and cam
lobe become 'wear mated' to each other.

You should always use the appropriate lifter type for the camshaft.  That
is, you shouldn't run flat tappet solid or roller lifters on a cam designed
for flat tappet hydraulic lifters.  You don't necessarily have to use the
same cam manufacturer's lifters with their cam but regardless of what type
lifter it's made for (solid or hydraulic flat tappet, or solid or hydraulic
roller) you need to use the correct type lifter for the camshaft.  Be aware
many cam manufacturers may void any warranty on their camshaft if you use
another manufacturer's lifters.

A 'high performance' cam is kinda like the old '3/4 race' cam terminology.
'High performance' compared to what?  A 'high performance' 283/327 cam may
be a very mild cam for a 350.  Since it's mainly a street car, regardless of
the manufacturer you go with, I'd stick with their recommendation for an
application and maybe even the lower end of multiple selections.  Look at
your car's weight, transmission & rear end gear type/ratio, and where you do
most of your driving (RPM range).  If you have power brakes, engine vacuum
is also another thing to take into consideration.  Watch out for 'high
performance' cams that result in a loss of engine vacuum, hence vacuum for
power brakes.

It's easy to get carried away and 'over cam' your engine due to enthusiasm
and costs being about the same. 

Dale McIntosh 
ChevelleCD.com 
ChevelleStuff.com 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:chevelle-list-
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino
> Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 5:53 PM
> To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] QUESTION: about Lifters...
> 
> Hey guys I need your help.  I am in the process of replacing my existing
> lifters because there is a bad clicking noise, which doesn't go away.  My
> brother in law had re-tightened the rockers, but the clicking doesn't go
> away.  So he suggested that there might be a bad lifter and for me to buy
> new lifters especially to buy the roller lifters.  I bought my 1970
> chevelle 350 about 4 years ago and I don't really know of what
> modifications were done in the engine.  For one thing I know there is a
> high performance cam, with HEI ignition, headers dual exhaust, holly carb.
> My car is for street use only, no track.
> 
> Do I need to match the lifters to my cam?  If I don't need to, What type
> of lifters should I buy?  What brand is best to get?  Also, I read in a
> forum from a website that you can't install new lifters with a used cam
> because you will do more damage, Is this true?  If true, then do I need to
> buy a new cam with new lifters altogether?  thanks
> -Eddie
> 
> --
> Be Yourself @ mail.com!
> Choose From 200+ Email Addresses
> Get a Free Account at www.mail.com
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[John W. Lonadier, Jr.]

I know that I am a little late in responding to this but the engine that
is in my Chevelle is from a truck, I don't know if it has two or four
bolt mains. The previous owner had the block decked and it had 049 heads
with the stock size valves in it when I got it. Since then I have
changed the cam to a Crane 272 adv with .515 lift single pattern
hydraulic lifter. I also had a set of 781 heads worked and put the 2.19
intake and 1.88 exhaust valves with Comp Magnum roller tipped rockers.
Just those changes seemed to do a lot for the way the engine behaves.
Just my .02.

John L.
ACES #5597
70 LS5 TRIBUTE
http://chevellfan.com/index89.html
http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.html


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale Mundle
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 5:51 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454


I am looking for help building a 70 chevelle, have a chance to get a 454

that most likely according to the numbers came out of a truck from
75-87.   
My question is are these good blocks to build?  How much should I pay
for 
something like this?

Thanks guys,

Dale

_
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Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[Bad66Chevelle454]

I too, have one of these truck 454's in my  Chevelle.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[Dale Mundle]

Thanks for all the help guys, probably going to pick it up.




I am looking for help building a 70 chevelle, have a chance to get
a 454
that most likely according to the numbers came out of a truck from
75-87.
My question is are these good blocks to build?  How much should I
pay for
something like this?

Thanks guys,
Dale



>
>



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Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[wbainey]

Some trucks came with 4 bolt mains which is a bonus.
Some heads were peanut port...good for torque but ran out of air early.
many had "low perf" heads that will work great on in your chevelle.  The
781 and 049's are great.  I ran them on my 10 second nat aspirated combos...
Walt
http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm

- Original Message -
From: Dale Mundle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Saturday, December 16, 2006 6:51 pm
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net

> I am looking for help building a 70 chevelle, have a chance to get 
> a 454 
> that most likely according to the numbers came out of a truck from 
> 75-87.   
> My question is are these good blocks to build?  How much should I 
> pay for 
> something like this?
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> Dale
> 
> _
> Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger. 
>
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme002001msn/direct/01/?href=http://get.live.com/messenger/overview
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[Clint Hooper]

I've seen quite a few truck 454 engines that had  781 oval port castings and
those are excellent units.
Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino protourer
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/
"You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a
pile of brass."

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Rightler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> Nothing wrong with any 454 block.  The heads, however, are another story.
> They have peanut port intake runners that aren't worth the iron they are
> made from.  You'll need to find some decent heads for it.  I built one for
> my 70 and it runs low 13's on street tires.
> Tom Rightler
> MCC Newsletter Editor

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[Tom Rightler]

Nothing wrong with any 454 block.  The heads, however, are another story. 
They have peanut port intake runners that aren't worth the iron they are 
made from.  You'll need to find some decent heads for it.  I built one for 
my 70 and it runs low 13's on street tires.


Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[Clint Hooper]

If the block checks out to be sound,nothing wrong with 454's from those
years. Some of them had lousy heads and some didn't.
$500 is probably a good price for something like that around here.
Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino protourer
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/
"You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a
pile of brass."

- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Mundle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> I am looking for help building a 70 chevelle, have a chance to get a 454
> that most likely according to the numbers came out of a truck from 75-87.
> My question is are these good blocks to build?  How much should I pay for
> something like this?
> Thanks guys,
> Dale

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454

[william yetman]

Be carefull...I bought a remanufactured 454  I believe it was a 1983 block 
which ment it was a smog motor, it only had 230HP. I decided to tear it down 
and rebuild it only to find the crank was out of tollerance the cylinders 
were all sleeved and it was decked. I paid 2000 for it and will put app. 
3500 into it. Still not a bad deal it should be well over 500HP when it is 
done.
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale Mundle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 6:51 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question about 454


I am looking for help building a 70 chevelle, have a chance to get a 454 
that most likely according to the numbers came out of a truck from 75-87. 
My question is are these good blocks to build?  How much should I pay for 
something like this?


Thanks guys,

Dale

_
Talk now to your Hotmail contacts with Windows Live Messenger. 
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme002001msn/direct/01/?href=http://get.live.com/messenger/overview

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question CI of bore & stroke

[Jim Dos]

pi r(radius) 
squared x 3
 
3.1416 x (2.375 x 
2.375) x3 x 8 = 425.2941 cu in

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Dave Corgill 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, October 30, 2006 11:48 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question CI of 
  bore & stroke
  Just replaced the valves on my 2 stage air 
  compressor& the big piston is 4.750 (4 3/4 ") & stroke is 
  3".I wondered what CI would a V8 be with a 4 3/4" borewith a 3" 
  stroke. I forgot how to figure 
  it.---Text 
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  message has NOT been classified as spam. If it is unsolicited mail (spam), 
  click on the following link to reclassify it: It is 
  spam!---

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question About Fuel Fittings

[Larry Shouse]

Very nice set-up Herb.
 
Larry

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Herb Lumpp 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 9:55 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Question 
  About Fuel Fittings
  
  Are 
  you sure the -8 has a 3/8 pipe thread and not a 1/2"?  Instead of the 
  dual feed lines, I went with Edelbrocks deal with the regulator.  The two 
  lines going to the float bowls are -6 and line feeding into the bottom of the 
  regulator is a -8.  I like it, it's clean and works good.  The fuel 
  filter is back by the tank.
   
  http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/DSC05117.JPG
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
ShouseSent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 9:40 PMTo: 
Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Question About Fuel 
Fittings
I have one of those dual feed fuel line with a 
pressure gauge on it. The input end (right next to the gauge) is threaded, 
and has an adaptor screwed in that runs into a male 3/8" barb end. 

 
Does anybody have an idea what size and 
type the threaded end is? I took it to an auto parts store, and the guy 
there told me it's a standard 3/8" fitting. This adaptor threads right into 
canister type fuel filters.
 
I tried screwing in the 3/8" NTP end of a 
-8 AN to 3/8" NTP adaptor into the female (input end) of the dual feed fuel 
line and it's just a bit too big to fit.
 
What I'm trying to do is run a -8 AN braided 
line from my fuel pump up to the dual feed line hooked to the carb. I was 
thinking the basic 3/8" fuel line fitting was the same thread as on the -8 
AN to 3/8" NTP adaptor... I guess not.
 
Any 
ideas?

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question About Fuel Fittings

[Larry Shouse]

Herb,
 
Summit offers both -8 to 3/8 and -8 to 1/2. The kit 
I bought came with 4 -8 to 3/8. These adaptors fit just fine into my mechanical 
fuel pump with 3/8" fittings. Since I'm not running a regulator, I don't have 
your option without additional fittings.
 
Larry Shouse

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Herb Lumpp 
  
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 9:55 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Question 
  About Fuel Fittings
  
  Are 
  you sure the -8 has a 3/8 pipe thread and not a 1/2"?  Instead of the 
  dual feed lines, I went with Edelbrocks deal with the regulator.  The two 
  lines going to the float bowls are -6 and line feeding into the bottom of the 
  regulator is a -8.  I like it, it's clean and works good.  The fuel 
  filter is back by the tank.
   
  http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/DSC05117.JPG
  Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
ShouseSent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 9:40 PMTo: 
Chevelle ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Question About Fuel 
Fittings
I have one of those dual feed fuel line with a 
pressure gauge on it. The input end (right next to the gauge) is threaded, 
and has an adaptor screwed in that runs into a male 3/8" barb end. 

 
Does anybody have an idea what size and 
type the threaded end is? I took it to an auto parts store, and the guy 
there told me it's a standard 3/8" fitting. This adaptor threads right into 
canister type fuel filters.
 
I tried screwing in the 3/8" NTP end of a 
-8 AN to 3/8" NTP adaptor into the female (input end) of the dual feed fuel 
line and it's just a bit too big to fit.
 
What I'm trying to do is run a -8 AN braided 
line from my fuel pump up to the dual feed line hooked to the carb. I was 
thinking the basic 3/8" fuel line fitting was the same thread as on the -8 
AN to 3/8" NTP adaptor... I guess not.
 
Any 
ideas?

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question About Fuel Fittings

[Herb Lumpp]

Are 
you sure the -8 has a 3/8 pipe thread and not a 1/2"?  Instead of the dual 
feed lines, I went with Edelbrocks deal with the regulator.  The two lines 
going to the float bowls are -6 and line feeding into the bottom of the 
regulator is a -8.  I like it, it's clean and works good.  The fuel 
filter is back by the tank.
 
http://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/DSC05117.JPG
Herb Lumpphttp://users.adelphia.net/~hlump/index.htm

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Larry 
  ShouseSent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 9:40 PMTo: Chevelle 
  ListSubject: [Chevelle-list] Question About Fuel 
  Fittings
  I have one of those dual feed fuel line with a 
  pressure gauge on it. The input end (right next to the gauge) is threaded, and 
  has an adaptor screwed in that runs into a male 3/8" barb end. 
   
  Does anybody have an idea what size and 
  type the threaded end is? I took it to an auto parts store, and the guy 
  there told me it's a standard 3/8" fitting. This adaptor threads right into 
  canister type fuel filters.
   
  I tried screwing in the 3/8" NTP end of a -8 
  AN to 3/8" NTP adaptor into the female (input end) of the dual feed fuel line 
  and it's just a bit too big to fit.
   
  What I'm trying to do is run a -8 AN braided line 
  from my fuel pump up to the dual feed line hooked to the carb. I was thinking 
  the basic 3/8" fuel line fitting was the same thread as on the -8 AN to 3/8" 
  NTP adaptor... I guess not.
   
  Any ideas?

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question/MoldingsRestore

[mike f]

Mr. Gamino

Eddie, I have just buffed my front the rear window
glass molding up and the look good. theses were the
stock pieces from the car. I have a 1/2 HP bench
grinder converted to buffer with the white rouge and
the unsewn (loose) buffing wheeel. Worked good and
quickly. 

Before, I did this I needed a tray to soak the pieces
in. So, I bot a 4 in. pvc pipe and put caps on it.
Took a cutter and cut a side out to make it hold
thinner( good lacquer - ^sp )and soaked the parts in.
The cleaned up good. From that point, all I needed was
the white rouge. I bot the next step up buff and
compound. Can't remenber what that was, right off. Oh,
I got the video too. 

Hope this helps.
mike

--- "Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Hey there fellow members, I was wondering if anybody
> can give me any pointers and suggestions on
> restoring my car moldings, such as the front & rear
> window moldings.  I don't really want to buy new
> ones, unless I have to.  My moldings are dull and
> have some minor scratches with some kind swirl
> marks.  Can I use anything to get the marks off and
> shine them back up??  THANKS, -EDDIE-
> 
> -- 
> ___
> Play 100s of games for FREE! http://games.mail.com/
> 
> 
> 


__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question/MoldingsRestore

[HarKemAsso]

In a message dated 2/8/2006 7:28:44 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


Hey there fellow members, I was wondering if anybody can give me any pointers and suggestions on restoring my car moldings, such as the front & rear window moldings.  I don't really want to buy new ones, unless I have to.  My moldings are dull and have some minor scratches with some kind swirl marks.  Can I use anything to get the marks off and shine them back up??  THANKS, -EDDIE

Eddie, you would need a good grinder (and some long extensions for the ends) and some buffing wheels and some compound, it is a dirty job, but can be done, sort of tedious- lots of steps- i am no expert. usually places that sell buffing supplies have sort of a hand book that tells the steps- becareful not to get the mldgs too hot- that can leave spots.  to have them redone runs about 20.00 per foot in these parts anyways, i have never bought new ones- don't know about the quality, but is probably cheaper than having them redone.
hope this helps!
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question/MoldingsRestore

[Rick Schaefer]

  The window moldings are stainless steel, they can be polished like new.   And you will be much better off keeping the originals if you can.  If you go to this page:  
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html  there is all of the supplies you will need.  You can usually buy them locally too.  On the left side of that page is a link to 
Free How To Buff & Polish Booklet . Print it out  and have fun.
On 2/8/06, Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey there fellow members, I was wondering if anybody can give me any pointers and suggestions on restoring my car moldings, such as the front & rear window moldings.  I don't really want to buy new ones, unless I have to.  My moldings are dull and have some minor scratches with some kind swirl marks.  Can I use anything to get the marks off and shine them back up??  THANKS, -EDDIE-
--___Play 100s of games for FREE! http://games.mail.com/-- Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest

[Mike Holleman]

Brad, Thanks for noticing the photo and little blurb in the current HPP. I 
doubt my car would do too well in a POCI national. Way too modified, driven 
almost daily, and not really national material. My car will be featured in 
the March 06 HPP. According to Editor Tom DeMaura that issue hits the news 
stands in Mid Dec.
Like most of the folks on this list, I do shows to meet people with the same 
affliction and to see what they have built. When you luck into a little 
recognition it's icing on the cake. Herb and I are heading over to the 
Goodguys in Charlotte this coming weekend. If any of you guys are going 
please look us up.

Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: "Brad Olson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest



-- Original message --
From: Bob Haggard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The subject came up on the Nova list that Pontiac Tempest had a 1 year 
only
front engine rear transmission linked together with a torque tube in 1963 
but

dropped the design in 64.  Anyone know why?  I think they made the right
decision to go with a conventional rear suspension shared with other 
BOP&C

products but no one knows the details.


The '61-63 Tempest was a unibody and used the rear transaxle.  There
were a few minor problems with it (body flex, driveshaft noise) but
because the Tempest shared the Corvair's swing axle suspension there
were problems with marketing and the public's perception of the car, too.
Converting to a more conventional design also meant that stronger
transmissions could be used as well.

Speaking of Tempests, list member Mike Holleman and his trophy-winning
'64 are featured in one of the current Pontiac magazines...Mike, did
you win at the POCI national convention in Greenville SC this year?
Congratulations!

Brad



--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/147 - Release Date: 10/24/2005

RE: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest

[John Nasta]

Isn't this the car that Marisa Tomei (in "My Cousin Vinny") cited as the
only GM 4-door sedan at the time to have posi-traction?

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest

[Brad Olson]

-- Original message --
From: Bob Haggard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> The subject came up on the Nova list that Pontiac Tempest had a 1 year only 
> front engine rear transmission linked together with a torque tube in 1963 but 
> dropped the design in 64.  Anyone know why?  I think they made the right 
> decision to go with a conventional rear suspension shared with other BOP&C 
> products but no one knows the details.

The '61-63 Tempest was a unibody and used the rear transaxle.  There
were a few minor problems with it (body flex, driveshaft noise) but
because the Tempest shared the Corvair's swing axle suspension there
were problems with marketing and the public's perception of the car, too.
Converting to a more conventional design also meant that stronger
transmissions could be used as well.

Speaking of Tempests, list member Mike Holleman and his trophy-winning
'64 are featured in one of the current Pontiac magazines...Mike, did
you win at the POCI national convention in Greenville SC this year?
Congratulations!

Brad

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest

[John]

Everyone has pretty well covered the weak 
points.  Increased horsepower was too much.  Reason for design was to 
give a flater and more usable floor pan.  Concept was ahead of the 
technology to make it work correctly.  John

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  
  Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 11:43 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] question 
  about 63 Tempest
  
  
  In a message dated 10/21/2005 9:42:05 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
  
The transaxle was garbage and was very unreliable. Think of a large 
rubber band always snapping.In 1966 I was interested in buying one and 
my Dad checked it out. We did not buy it because the mechanic 
were my Dad worked just plain said they were junk.
   Larry 
(Z) 
 
  
  whoops where

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest

[Z16CHEVELLEGUY]

In a message dated 10/21/2005 9:42:05 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  The transaxle was garbage and was very unreliable. Think of a large 
  rubber band always snapping.In 1966 I was interested in buying one and my 
  Dad checked it out. We did not buy it because the mechanic 
  were my Dad worked just plain said they were junk.
     Larry 
  (Z) 
   

whoops where

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest

[Z16CHEVELLEGUY]

The transaxle was garbage and was very unreliable. Think of a large rubber 
band always snapping.In 1966 I was interested in buying one and my Dad 
checked it out. We did not buy it because the mechanic 
were my Dad worked just plain said they were junk.
   Larry 
(Z) 
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest

[Jim Dos]

I really think it was the ''rope cable '' drive shaft... it was not 
particularly reliable and could not take much power at all..as horsepower 
continued to increase, it was something that had to change.


Jim


- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Haggard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 9:28 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] question about 63 Tempest


The subject came up on the Nova list that Pontiac Tempest had a 1 year 
only front engine rear transmission linked together with a torque tube in 
1963 but dropped the design in 64.  Anyone know why?  I think they made 
the right decision to go with a conventional rear suspension shared with 
other BOP&C products but no one knows the details.

Bob Haggard

Re: [Chevelle-list] question on '67 rear

[DonnieG67]

Jim,
 
It will be a direct bolt in... and you will not need the spring cups to 
bolt down the bottom of the springs to the rear they will just sit right on 
top of the perches.
 
Donnie

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about the back pad

[Skylark701]

   They ship OVERSIZE so freight may be more than the package tray, and it may still have a crease in it when you get it.  I'll try to make my own next time.  They start at $21.95 from Y-1 for a Nova, mesh for a Skylark is about twice that.
   Bob Haggard

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


That's referred to as the rear package tray... usually pretty cheap 
anywhere you look for one.
--
Shawn Price
Senior Network Engineer
Morrison Homes
404-427-8229
On Aug 30, 2004, at 5:07 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> hey guys,
>
> What is the pad behind the back seat where the speakers are? is there 
> a name for it? if so do they reproduce it? the one on my 1970 chevelle 
> is all bent outta shape and does not lay flat anymore and it seems it 
> is only cardboard and some black plastic.
>
> Apreciate the info,
> Aaron
> 1970 Chevelle Malibu
> Houston,TX
>
>

RE: [Chevelle-list] question about the back pad

[John Nasta]

They cost more to ship than they are worth. Try to buy one from a local
vendor or at a show / swap meet.

John Nasta



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Shawn Price
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 5:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] question about the back pad

That's referred to as the rear package tray... usually pretty cheap
anywhere you look for one.
--
Shawn Price
Senior Network Engineer
Morrison Homes
404-427-8229
On Aug 30, 2004, at 5:07 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> hey guys,
>
> What is the pad behind the back seat where the speakers are? is there
> a name for it? if so do they reproduce it? the one on my 1970 chevelle
> is all bent outta shape and does not lay flat anymore and it seems it
> is only cardboard and some black plastic.
>
> Apreciate the info,
> Aaron
> 1970 Chevelle Malibu
> Houston,TX
>
>

Re: [Chevelle-list] question about the back pad

[Shawn Price]

That's referred to as the rear package tray... usually pretty cheap 
anywhere you look for one.
--
Shawn Price
Senior Network Engineer
Morrison Homes
404-427-8229
On Aug 30, 2004, at 5:07 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

hey guys,
What is the pad behind the back seat where the speakers are? is there 
a name for it? if so do they reproduce it? the one on my 1970 chevelle 
is all bent outta shape and does not lay flat anymore and it seems it 
is only cardboard and some black plastic.

Apreciate the info,
Aaron
1970 Chevelle Malibu
Houston,TX

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question

[Batsy74]

I didn't get that question. Try asking it again.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  ROBERT BATES 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 8:55 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question
  
  How do I go about posting a question to be answered by the 
  readers?
   
  thanks,
   
  Robert
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question

[rick]

The same way you just asked ...

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  ROBERT BATES 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 7:55 
  AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Question
  
  How do I go about posting a question to be answered by the 
  readers?
   
  thanks,
   
  Robert
   
  ---Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.Checked 
  by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).Version: 6.0.524 
  / Virus Database: 321 - Release Date: 
10/6/03

RE: [Chevelle-list] Question

[Diane Peppin]

"How do I go about posting a question to be 
answered by the readers?"
 
Robert;
 That question can be answered 
by one or all of us. ;-Diane
    

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question

[James Spradling]

You just did!
 
James
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search

Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about Vortec 350

[Dave Corgill]

At 06:46 AM 08/23/2003 -0400, you wrote:
   Car Craft Oct.03 has an article about Vortec valve springs made by 
Comp Cams that increase the valve lift to .550 and they are lighter and 
can be installed without machine work.  Comp cam part # 26915 has seat 
pressure of 105# and part # 26918 has seat pressure of 130#.  I ordered 
the 130# version of this Beehive spring along with retainers # 774.  Only 
problem with this spring was the price of $185.  Any suggestions of a 
self aligning 1.6 roller rocker that will fit under stock style valve 
covers on a Vortec head.
Bob Haggard


Here they are:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=523&pid=1086

At 09:54 PM 08/22/2003 -0400, Bob Haggard wrote:
>I am building a Vortec 350 that was removed from a 97 Chevy
> pickup.  It's a 70k mile motor that is in great condition so I am just
> replacing the cam, timing chain, valve springs, rockers, and all new
> gaskets and seals.  The GMPP Ram Jet cam #14097395 seems to be a good
> deal for a roller cam at $121.10 (+shipping) from GMPartsDirect.com so I
> ordered one.  This is a 350 hp EFI crate motor and my plans are to use
> either a Holley or Edelbrock carb and intake.  Was this a bad choice
> considering its a EFI cam or can I expect to have about 350 hp with a
> carb.  I may change over to EFI at some later date but don't have the
> $2,500 at this time.
>Bob Haggard
>63 Nova
>70 Skylark
That cam is not a EFI cam it's the same cam GMPP uses on the HT383 motor 
& will work fine with a carb. 1.6 rockers will help that cam but you need the
crane upgrade springs for that see below :

Can I use the 1.6 rockers on the HT383 with the stock springs? I see the
Ram Jet uses them on the same head & springs. That would be .481 E lift.
Thanks

By Scott on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 10:04 pm:
It can be done, but I wholeheartedly recommend changing the springs to do
this. The Vortec spring is really about maxed out at this point. The real
problem becomes retainer to valve seal clearance. Some of the Vortec heads
have tighter clearances than others and nearly all of them have valve seals
that aren't fully installed. The seals lack as much as .080-.100" of being
driven all the way on. If you go to the trouble to remove the springs and
drive the seals all the way on, you may as well replace the springs while
you are there. Purchase Crane springs P/N 10309 for best results.


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Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about Vortec 350

[Dave Corgill]

At 06:46 AM 08/23/2003 -0400, you wrote:
   Car Craft Oct.03 has an article about Vortec valve springs made by 
Comp Cams that increase the valve lift to .550 and they are lighter and 
can be installed without machine work.  Comp cam part # 26915 has seat 
pressure of 105# and part # 26918 has seat pressure of 130#.  I ordered 
the 130# version of this Beehive spring along with retainers # 774.  Only 
problem with this spring was the price of $185.  Any suggestions of a 
self aligning 1.6 roller rocker that will fit under stock style valve 
covers on a Vortec head.
Bob Haggard


These are what I bought & they fit under the stock centerbolt covers.
N GM 12370839 Rocker Arm SBC Rocker_Arm - Aluminum roller rocker, 1.6 
ratio, self alinging. (Kit: 16 rockers, nuts, and instruction sheet.)

You can see them here:
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/engine.html

At 09:54 PM 08/22/2003 -0400, Bob Haggard wrote:
>I am building a Vortec 350 that was removed from a 97 Chevy
> pickup.  It's a 70k mile motor that is in great condition so I am just
> replacing the cam, timing chain, valve springs, rockers, and all new
> gaskets and seals.  The GMPP Ram Jet cam #14097395 seems to be a good
> deal for a roller cam at $121.10 (+shipping) from GMPartsDirect.com so I
> ordered one.  This is a 350 hp EFI crate motor and my plans are to use
> either a Holley or Edelbrock carb and intake.  Was this a bad choice
> considering its a EFI cam or can I expect to have about 350 hp with a
> carb.  I may change over to EFI at some later date but don't have the
> $2,500 at this time.
>Bob Haggard
>63 Nova
>70 Skylark
That cam is not a EFI cam it's the same cam GMPP uses on the HT383 motor 
& will work fine with a carb. 1.6 rockers will help that cam but you need the
crane upgrade springs for that see below :

Can I use the 1.6 rockers on the HT383 with the stock springs? I see the
Ram Jet uses them on the same head & springs. That would be .481 E lift.
Thanks

By Scott on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 10:04 pm:
It can be done, but I wholeheartedly recommend changing the springs to do
this. The Vortec spring is really about maxed out at this point. The real
problem becomes retainer to valve seal clearance. Some of the Vortec heads
have tighter clearances than others and nearly all of them have valve seals
that aren't fully installed. The seals lack as much as .080-.100" of being
driven all the way on. If you go to the trouble to remove the springs and
drive the seals all the way on, you may as well replace the springs while
you are there. Purchase Crane springs P/N 10309 for best results.


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[EMAIL PROTECTED] & The Doberman gang in Dallas (Taxes)
Dave's Doberman page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1877/
Doberworld home page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1878/
El-Camino/Chevelle page http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/
My Machine Shop http://cncshop.8m.com
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Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about Vortec 350

[Skylark701]

   Car Craft Oct.03 has an article about Vortec valve springs made by Comp Cams that increase the valve lift to .550 and they are lighter and can be installed without machine work.  Comp cam part # 26915 has seat pressure of 105# and part # 26918 has seat pressure of 130#.  I ordered the 130# version of this Beehive spring along with retainers # 774.  Only problem with this spring was the price of $185.  Any suggestions of a self aligning 1.6 roller rocker that will fit under stock style valve covers on a Vortec head.
Bob Haggard

At 09:54 PM 08/22/2003 -0400, Bob Haggard wrote:
>    I am building a Vortec 350 that was removed from a 97 Chevy 
> pickup.  It's a 70k mile motor that is in great condition so I am just 
> replacing the cam, timing chain, valve springs, rockers, and all new 
> gaskets and seals.  The GMPP Ram Jet cam #14097395 seems to be a good 
> deal for a roller cam at $121.10 (+shipping) from GMPartsDirect.com so I 
> ordered one.  This is a 350 hp EFI crate motor and my plans are to use 
> either a Holley or Edelbrock carb and intake.  Was this a bad choice 
> considering its a EFI cam or can I expect to have about 350 hp with a 
> carb.  I may change over to EFI at some later date but don't have the 
> $2,500 at this time.
>Bob Haggard
>63 Nova
>70 Skylark

That cam is not a EFI cam it's the same cam GMPP uses on the HT383 motor & will work fine with a carb. 1.6 rockers will help that cam but you need the 
crane upgrade springs for that see below :

Can I use the 1.6 rockers on the HT383 with the stock springs? I see the 
Ram Jet uses them on the same head & springs. That would be .481 E lift.
Thanks



By Scott on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 10:04 pm:
It can be done, but I wholeheartedly recommend changing the springs to do 
this. The Vortec spring is really about maxed out at this point. The real 
problem becomes retainer to valve seal clearance. Some of the Vortec heads 
have tighter clearances than others and nearly all of them have valve seals 
that aren't fully installed. The seals lack as much as .080-.100" of being 
driven all the way on. If you go to the trouble to remove the springs and 
drive the seals all the way on, you may as well replace the springs while 
you are there. Purchase Crane springs P/N 10309 for best results.




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Re: [Chevelle-list] Question about Vortec 350

[Dave Corgill]

At 09:54 PM 08/22/2003 -0400, you wrote:
   I am building a Vortec 350 that was removed from a 97 Chevy 
pickup.  It's a 70k mile motor that is in great condition so I am just 
replacing the cam, timing chain, valve springs, rockers, and all new 
gaskets and seals.  The GMPP Ram Jet cam #14097395 seems to be a good 
deal for a roller cam at $121.10 (+shipping) from GMPartsDirect.com so I 
ordered one.  This is a 350 hp EFI crate motor and my plans are to use 
either a Holley or Edelbrock carb and intake.  Was this a bad choice 
considering its a EFI cam or can I expect to have about 350 hp with a 
carb.  I may change over to EFI at some later date but don't have the 
$2,500 at this time.
Bob Haggard
63 Nova
70 Skylark
That cam is not a EFI cam it's the same cam GMPP uses on the HT383 motor & will
work fine with a carb. 1.6 rockers will help that cam but you need the 
crane upgrade
springs for that see below :

Can I use the 1.6 rockers on the HT383 with the stock springs? I see the 
Ram Jet uses them on the same head & springs. That would be .481 E lift.
Thanks


By Scott on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 10:04 pm:
It can be done, but I wholeheartedly recommend changing the springs to do 
this. The Vortec spring is really about maxed out at this point. The real 
problem becomes retainer to valve seal clearance. Some of the Vortec heads 
have tighter clearances than others and nearly all of them have valve seals 
that aren't fully installed. The seals lack as much as .080-.100" of being 
driven all the way on. If you go to the trouble to remove the springs and 
drive the seals all the way on, you may as well replace the springs while 
you are there. Purchase Crane springs P/N 10309 for best results.



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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about air/fuel mixture

[bdo_chevelle]

Are you getting any spark knock?  Is the car running warmer than before?  How 
do your plugs look?  Are you talking about idle mixture?

A miss is more often than not ignition-related.

Brad

> If your mixture is too lean, what would probably be
> the most common result?  Would the engine start missing?
> 
> I had adjusted mine a few weeks ago as some of you
> might remember, and when running my car yesterday my
> engine was starting to miss a bit- I wondered if this
> could be contributing to the cause?
> 
> I changed the plug wires yesterday which were pretty
> well shot, and that definitely helped- but, I didn't
> know if the mixture change could have contributed to the issue?
> 
> Jim
> '66 Malibu

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RE: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[Don Fields]

I have replaced front suspension parts on several cars.
I would crawl under and squeeze the joints ( top to bottom ) with a channel
lock.
If I saw more than a RCH of play I would consider replacing it.
It depends on how tight u want the front end .
If I was doing the in and out tie rods I would probably do the center link
and the idler.
It seems that most of those parts wear at the same rate.
Can't understand a pitman arm going bad ?



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dale McIntosh
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 4:52 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] question about center links


Roger on the price.  I've found them (for a 67) anywhere from $85 to
$150.  I don't know how often they really go bad, but I can see the
mechanics point of if you're doing it, do it all and do it right.  I
think Autozone was one of the higher priced ones too.  Pittman arms
don't usually go bad unless they're broken.  There are no joints to wear
out and about the only thing that can go wrong is the hole getting
reamed over time - but it's not common.  Sleeves are the same, nothing
to wear out unless the bolts are stripped.  Tell him you'll get a front
end kit from P-S-T or someone similar and a Moog or TRW centerlink and
bring him the parts.  Labor may cost a bit more since he's not making a
profit on the parts but the parts should cost a bunch less in the long
run.

Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS/67 Elky


> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links
>
>
> Center links bump up the price depending on years they
> average $ 100.Tom
> B.


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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[MACSRUL]

Dale,

 Anyone that would purchase a part from AutoZone would let their sister work in a 
ho house. LOL

    J.D. Hardin
    67 Chevelle
   Memphis, TN
   Headquarters for Auto Zone : )

Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[MACSRUL]

Hey Guys,

 I have the list for what my cost is on the front end parts for my 67. I have it laying in my desk at the shop. I'll look in the morning and post the costs involved.

    Thanks

 J.D. Hardin
    Memphis, TN
 67 Chevelle

 

Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[rocky hill]

Yes center links do need replaced, the ball joint that
attaches to the pitman arm, and the one that attaches
to the idler arm wear out just like any other part of
the front supension.

 just price one, then you will see why they are not
included in the front end kit, they seem to run about
$175.00 throw that into the kit, and then the so
called afordable kits don't look so attractive.

But when your replacing the whole front suspension
whats another $175.00 when your safety is concerned.



Rocky



--- "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Do centerlinks really need to be replaced??  I have
> looked at about 5 diff front-end rebuild kits, and
> none of them include the center link.  I find it odd
> that the guy at the shop told me today that mine
> would
> need to be replaced-  If they always needed to be
> replaced, wouldn't they be part of one of these
> kits??
>  Please help, I'm getting looney looking for the
> parts
> I need8^[
> 
> 
> 
> Jim
> '66 Malibu
> 
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
> http://search.yahoo.com
> 
>
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RE: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[Dale McIntosh]

Roger on the price.  I've found them (for a 67) anywhere from $85 to
$150.  I don't know how often they really go bad, but I can see the
mechanics point of if you're doing it, do it all and do it right.  I
think Autozone was one of the higher priced ones too.  Pittman arms
don't usually go bad unless they're broken.  There are no joints to wear
out and about the only thing that can go wrong is the hole getting
reamed over time - but it's not common.  Sleeves are the same, nothing
to wear out unless the bolts are stripped.  Tell him you'll get a front
end kit from P-S-T or someone similar and a Moog or TRW centerlink and
bring him the parts.  Labor may cost a bit more since he's not making a
profit on the parts but the parts should cost a bunch less in the long
run.

Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS/67 Elky


> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links
> 
> 
> Center links bump up the price depending on years they 
> average $ 100.Tom
> B.


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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[GLENN BAILEY]

Centerlinks have wear joints at the idler and pitman arms.  They don't seem 
to wear out that often on Chevelles, but will over time, especially after 35 
years.  If it's worn, replace it.
Glenn


From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Chevelle-List] question about center links
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 12:28:38 -0700 (PDT)
Do centerlinks really need to be replaced??  I have
looked at about 5 diff front-end rebuild kits, and
none of them include the center link.  I find it odd
that the guy at the shop told me today that mine would
need to be replaced-  If they always needed to be
replaced, wouldn't they be part of one of these kits??
 Please help, I'm getting looney looking for the parts
I need8^[


Jim
'66 Malibu
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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[MICRLASER]

In a message dated 5/27/03 3:30:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

<< Do centerlinks really need to be replaced??  I have
 looked at about 5 diff front-end rebuild kits, and
 none of them include the center link.  I find it odd
 that the guy at the shop told me today that mine would
 need to be replaced-  If they always needed to be
 replaced, wouldn't they be part of one of these kits??
  Please help, I'm getting looney looking for the parts
 I need8^[ >>

If you are going to rebuild the front end, get a new center link.  The one on 
my 69 is wiped out and needs to be replaced.  It causes the car to wander all 
over the road needing constant steering corrections.

Tom

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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about center links

[Tom Blawkamp]

Center links bump up the price depending on years they average $ 100.Tom
B.
- Original Message -
From: "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2003 3:28 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] question about center links


> Do centerlinks really need to be replaced??  I have
> looked at about 5 diff front-end rebuild kits, and
> none of them include the center link.  I find it odd
> that the guy at the shop told me today that mine would
> need to be replaced-  If they always needed to be
> replaced, wouldn't they be part of one of these kits??
>  Please help, I'm getting looney looking for the parts
> I need8^[
>
>
>
> Jim
> '66 Malibu
>
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension

[gene . nusbaum]

Thanks to all for the information regarding the El Camino rear suspension 
braces.  I now know why mine didn't have them, but will probably add them.

Thanks again,
Gene
> Gene,
>   The  F40 and F41 suspension package had a frame brace that went from
> the front bolt of the lower control arm to the front bolt of the upper
> in front of the rear crossmember. I have driven chevelles with and
> without them and have noticed no difference but I'm not real rough with
> them in the corners. They aren't reproduced for the 68-72 Chevelles but
> I see them on E-bay all the time (usually way over priced)
> 
> Trooper
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > I have a 71 Elky that I want to add boxed control arms and a rear sway bar to
> > improve handling.  My questions are around the tubular brace (Edelbrock in 
> this
> > case) that runs from the lower to the upper control arms for support.  Some of
> > the materials that I have read talk about replacing a current thin piece of
> > metal which I don't seem to have on my 71.  Was some form of brace standard on
> > 71's and is the brace necessary or worth the money to add or upgrade?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Gene
> > 
> > -
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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension

[Dale McIntosh]

Don't know about 71's but for 70, the F41 was only availble on 13637-67
models while the F40 was availble on anything but a wagon.  Sounds like
Larry may have a valid point, exclamations and all. 

Dale McIntosh
TC Gold #92/ACES #1709
67SS/67 Elky


> Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension
> 
> 
> El Camino's were not available with the F-41 suspension. 
> Buildout manuals and documentation says they none were 
> produced!! You can add the system, but no line installed it 
> at the factory!!
> 
> Larry!
> 


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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension

[MICRLASER]

I bought a 70 EC SS out of a junkyard.  It had those braces from the factory.  The Chevelles equppied with the F-41 suspension had the braces along with the boxed arms.

Tom

RE: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension

[McLerran, Larry W.]

El Camino's were not available with the F-41 suspension. Buildout manuals and 
documentation says they none were produced!! You can add the system, but no line 
installed it at the factory!!

Larry!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2003 2:42 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension


I thought all El Caminos had those.  I know they are part of the F-41 Suspension on 
big block cars.  I custom made a beefier set for my 70.  They add stability to the 
suspension.  I personnaly would put them on for a performance application.

Tom

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension

[MICRLASER]

I thought all El Caminos had those.  I know they are part of the F-41 Suspension on 
big block cars.  I custom made a beefier set for my 70.  They add stability to the 
suspension.  I personnaly would put them on for a performance application.

Tom

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question about El Camino Rear Suspension

[Trooper]

Gene,
  The  F40 and F41 suspension package had a frame brace that went from
the front bolt of the lower control arm to the front bolt of the upper
in front of the rear crossmember. I have driven chevelles with and
without them and have noticed no difference but I'm not real rough with
them in the corners. They aren't reproduced for the 68-72 Chevelles but
I see them on E-bay all the time (usually way over priced)

Trooper

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> I have a 71 Elky that I want to add boxed control arms and a rear sway bar to
> improve handling.  My questions are around the tubular brace (Edelbrock in this
> case) that runs from the lower to the upper control arms for support.  Some of
> the materials that I have read talk about replacing a current thin piece of
> metal which I don't seem to have on my 71.  Was some form of brace standard on
> 71's and is the brace necessary or worth the money to add or upgrade?
> 
> Thanks,
> Gene
> 
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> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question

[Michael Ishee]

By chance do you need an original rear SS bumper with bumper pad because i 
just so happen to have one for sale that has been sitting in my attic for 6 
months.
Michael


>From: "G Cook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [Chevelle-List] Question
>Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2002 19:23:42 -0500
>
>I'm in the process of restoring a 1970 Chevelle SS 396, I don't have the 
>build sheet, Is there any way of getting one from the VIN number???
>
>Any advice will be greatly appreciated


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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about hardened valve seats

[Jim R Hunter]

Jim,

I'd recommend Blitz Performance in Kennett Square, Pa.  They've been
working on these engines  and rebuilding them since they were new back in
the 60s  (and I've been watching cars powered by their engines run at
Cecil County Dragway since I was a youngster in those days).

Their number is 610-444-3830.

Jim H.

On Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:42:26 -0700 (PDT) "J. Brady" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
writes:
> Last weekend I bought an original '67 327 motor from a
> guy who took the heads off to have a valve job done on
> them..
> 
> Everything on the heads have been redone, and the
> rocker arm studs have even been pinned..  Only thing
> is, they rebuilt the heads to original, and put soft
> valve seats in them-
> 
> How much would it be to have a shop replace the soft
> seats with the hardened ones?  Any recommendations in
> the northern MD/DE/PA area?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jim 
> '66 Malibu
> 
> __
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[AutoObsessn]

In a message dated 4/22/02 6:01:44 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< Thanks for the info, guys.

By the way, Trevor, do you have a catalog online or in paper form?

Jim -69-SS396- H.  >>

Jim,
Our website, www.AutoObsession,com has lots of info, parts lists, prices, 
etc.  But, it is far from complete.  I'm actually looking to hire someone to 
convert our website to the "shopping cart" kind, for ease of ordering.
A printed catalog is very expensive and just doesn't fit in the budget, at 
the moment.  So, for now, I let the big guys pay to print their catalogs and 
I just beat their prices!

Sincerely,
Trevor Baker
http://www.autoobsession.com/";>Auto Obsession
805-306-0795  Shop
805-660-2253  Cell
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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[John Nasta]

There is a pic at:

http://oldcarnetwork.com/Merchant2/graphics/gmparts/CH2081.jpg


-Original Message-
Does anyone have pictures of this trim that we are talking about as I
have a '69 and I am not sure what we are talking about.
Thanks


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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[HarKemAsso]

is ths the mldg that runs between the headlights above the grille on the 
header panel, or am i misunderstanding??

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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[John Nasta]

My 69 El Camino (non-SS) had them from the factory and we also sell them. I
can post a pic tomorrow.

John Nasta
Old Car Network
http://oldcarnetwork.com




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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[Jim R Hunter]

Thanks for the info, guys.

By the way, Trevor, do you have a catalog online or in paper form?

Jim -69-SS396- H.  

On Mon, 22 Apr 2002 10:17:08 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Jim,
> I too have seen 69's with and without those little chrome moldings 
> between 
> the headlight bezels.  My 69 SS El Camino had them, as did my 
> previous, 
> non-SS 69 Elco.  It's my understanding that '68's never had them, 
> although 
> the 68's do use the same long header panel molding.
> BTW, we've been carrying those little moldings for almost two years 
> now!
> 
> Sincerely,
> Trevor Baker
> http://www.autoobsession.com/";>Auto Obsession
> 805-306-0795  Shop
> 805-660-2253  Cell
> To subscribe to our email group and be notified when we acquire more 
> parts or
> parts cars, and to find out about upcoming shows and swap meets, 
> send an
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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[Michael Ishee]

Does anyone have pictures of this trim that we are talking about as I
have a '69 and I am not sure what we are talking about.
Thanks
Michael

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Michael Pell
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2002 6:29 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding
inserts

I have these on my '69 Malibu, from the factory.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> i thought only 68's had this mldg
>
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[Michael Pell]

I have these on my '69 Malibu, from the factory.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> i thought only 68's had this mldg
>
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[ChevelleYenko]

>From what I have seen, The 69 SS 396 Malibu should have the small trim piece 
between the headlights. A 69 SS 300 deluxe may not have them since the 300 
grill does not have the center trim bar. I think many cars do not have it 
today because of a new header installation or other body/paint work where 
they just didn't replace the small parts. I have them on my 69.

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[HarKemAsso]

i thought only 68's had this mldg

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question on 69 SS headlight chrome molding inserts

[AutoObsessn]

Jim,
I too have seen 69's with and without those little chrome moldings between 
the headlight bezels.  My 69 SS El Camino had them, as did my previous, 
non-SS 69 Elco.  It's my understanding that '68's never had them, although 
the 68's do use the same long header panel molding.
BTW, we've been carrying those little moldings for almost two years now!

Sincerely,
Trevor Baker
http://www.autoobsession.com/";>Auto Obsession
805-306-0795  Shop
805-660-2253  Cell
To subscribe to our email group and be notified when we acquire more parts or
parts cars, and to find out about upcoming shows and swap meets, send an
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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about rear control arm bushings

[Larry Fisher]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


Mine have squeeked since the day i installed 'em. The only ones that don't
have been replaced w/original ones. They really tightened my front end up
but are NOISY.
Larry #?
- Original Message -
From: richard a schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] question about rear control arm bushings


>
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> 
>
> cory
>  You should get a small tube of the lube (silicon based I think) with
> your bushings.  But I would still try to find a supplemental supply.  Its
> been many years since I did mine and the amount of grease they sent for
> mine didn't seem like enough.  And as it turned out,  it wasn't.   Mine
> squeeked in cold weather from day one.   I recently replaced the fronts
> with del-alum and added grease fittings to the rear.  So far they are
> quiet, but I've only got a few miles on the rears.
>
> rick schaefer
> http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html
> http://chevelles.com/showroom/ricks%20motor%20-L
>
>
> On Fri, 1 Feb 2002 08:42:21 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> > 
> >
> > Hello, I took everyones advice and ordered some rear control arm
> > bushings.
> > They are made of polyurethane, and I forgot to order some of the
> > lube that is
> > used with them.  How important is it to use this, will they squeak?
> > Is there
> > any suggestions on using another type of grease? for example: high
> > quality
> > grease used in bicycle suspensions.
> >
> > Thanks for any and all help, I read the list daily and have learned
> > a ton
> > from all of you "experts"
> >
> > Cory Thompson
> > 68 Chevelle Malibu
> >
> > -
> > To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> > To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> -
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>


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RE: [Chevelle-List] question about rear control arm bushings

[Tigergutt]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


I used white lithium grease and have been happy with it so far

Kind Regards
André

 -Original Message-
From:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]  On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent:   1. februar 2002 14:42
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject:[Chevelle-List] question about rear control arm bushings


Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


Hello, I took everyones advice and ordered some rear control arm bushings.
They are made of polyurethane, and I forgot to order some of the lube that
is
used with them.  How important is it to use this, will they squeak?  Is
there
any suggestions on using another type of grease? for example: high quality
grease used in bicycle suspensions.

Thanks for any and all help, I read the list daily and have learned a ton
from all of you "experts"

Cory Thompson
68 Chevelle Malibu

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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about rear control arm bushings

[richard a schaefer]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


cory
 You should get a small tube of the lube (silicon based I think) with
your bushings.  But I would still try to find a supplemental supply.  Its
been many years since I did mine and the amount of grease they sent for
mine didn't seem like enough.  And as it turned out,  it wasn't.   Mine
squeeked in cold weather from day one.   I recently replaced the fronts
with del-alum and added grease fittings to the rear.  So far they are
quiet, but I've only got a few miles on the rears.

rick schaefer
http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html
http://chevelles.com/showroom/ricks%20motor%20-L


On Fri, 1 Feb 2002 08:42:21 EST [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> 
> 
> Hello, I took everyones advice and ordered some rear control arm 
> bushings.
> They are made of polyurethane, and I forgot to order some of the 
> lube that is 
> used with them.  How important is it to use this, will they squeak?  
> Is there 
> any suggestions on using another type of grease? for example: high 
> quality 
> grease used in bicycle suspensions.
> 
> Thanks for any and all help, I read the list daily and have learned 
> a ton 
> from all of you "experts"
> 
> Cory Thompson
> 68 Chevelle Malibu
> 
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Chevelle-List] question about rear control arm bushings

[Richard Milkiewicz]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


You should get the lube with the bushings.
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 8:42 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] question about rear control arm bushings


>
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> 
>
> Hello, I took everyones advice and ordered some rear control arm bushings.
> They are made of polyurethane, and I forgot to order some of the lube that
is
> used with them.  How important is it to use this, will they squeak?  Is
there
> any suggestions on using another type of grease? for example: high quality
> grease used in bicycle suspensions.
>
> Thanks for any and all help, I read the list daily and have learned a ton
> from all of you "experts"
>
> Cory Thompson
> 68 Chevelle Malibu
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[Mike Skinner]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List




Clint Hooper wrote:

> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> 
>
> I've always built my cars to suit me,,not someone else. If my SS badging
> pisses someone off,that's their problem,,not mine.
> Anyone that worries whether my car is real or not is just a little anal.
> Strange but if I were to put six cylinder emblems on my SS,would people
> really give a damn? Probably not so why not the other way around?
> Not a popular opinion,I know,but that's mine & I'm sticking to it.
> Clint Hooper
>
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> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
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I'm with you Clint "I like what I like and let the other fokes do the same.
I have a real SS but would be jus as happy if I'd cloned it.

Mike Skinner
67 SS396 Chevelle Convertible


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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[aztechsteel]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


I SECOND THE VOTE FOR INDIVIDUALISM!

JOE BANKS
AZTECH MOLD & DIE STEEL
602-257-2300


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Clint Hooper
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 7:08 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu


Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


I've always built my cars to suit me,,not someone else. If my SS badging
pisses someone off,that's their problem,,not mine.
Anyone that worries whether my car is real or not is just a little anal.
Strange but if I were to put six cylinder emblems on my SS,would people
really give a damn? Probably not so why not the other way around?
Not a popular opinion,I know,but that's mine & I'm sticking to it.
Clint Hooper



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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[Clint Hooper]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


When I see standard C4 Corvettes with ZR-1 emblems,it makes me chuckle. It
would be very,very expensive and difficult to clone a ZR-1(and the VIN would
give them away,too) so I can relate to your opinion. However,whether I had a
clone SS or a true version,it just wouldn't matter much to me one way or the
other. Doesn't make much sense except for the fact they didn't produce the
Chevelle/El Camino I want so paying a bunch of extra green for a matching
numbers,true SS car that I would modify the heck out of doesn't make
sense,either.
Nahh,I decided against the 70 Elky. For some reason,1970 was just not a good
year for me. What do you think of the photos I just emailed you on that
killer '69 SS with 427/450 and 4spd? Except for the silver hood stripes,that
car is "The One".
Clint Hooper
LT5 Registry
Wichita Falls,Tx
(940) 855-6636 anytime
'90 ZR-1 Red/Red #952
TX TAGS: USA ZR1
http://www.LT5Registry.com/
- Original Message -
From: 396guy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Hu-rah Clint, build 'em to please yourself - my motto as well.  Never said
> it pi$$ed me off.  I just happen to pi$$ one guy off ONLY because of my
> belief that it shouldn't have SS badges.  Would going the other way bother
> people?  Not me.  It wouldn't bother me if people took an SS and debadged
it
> entirely.  That would be downplaying the car to make it a sleeper...no
> problem in my eyes...it's when it's being promoted...
>
> In any event, your opinion is the majority and you're certainly entitled
to
> it; just as I think I'm entitled to mine. :*)
>
> BTW, anything happen with that 70 Elky?
>
> Dale



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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[396guy]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


Hu-rah Clint, build 'em to please yourself - my motto as well.  Never said
it pi$$ed me off.  I just happen to pi$$ one guy off ONLY because of my
belief that it shouldn't have SS badges.  Would going the other way bother
people?  Not me.  It wouldn't bother me if people took an SS and debadged it
entirely.  That would be downplaying the car to make it a sleeper...no
problem in my eyes...it's when it's being promoted...

In any event, your opinion is the majority and you're certainly entitled to
it; just as I think I'm entitled to mine. :*)

BTW, anything happen with that 70 Elky?

Dale

>
> I've always built my cars to suit me,,not someone else. If my SS badging
> pisses someone off,that's their problem,,not mine.
> Anyone that worries whether my car is real or not is just a little anal.
> Strange but if I were to put six cylinder emblems on my SS,would people
> really give a damn? Probably not so why not the other way around?
> Not a popular opinion,I know,but that's mine & I'm sticking to it.
> Clint Hooper
>
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>


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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[RKoletzke]

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I agree---I build for ME no one else, besides I kinda like pi$$ing people
off-- if I don't pi$$ some one off during the day I'll stop at a used car
lot on the way home. Try it sometime it's a lot of fun

thanks
Bob K

- Original Message -
From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu


>
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> 
>
> I've always built my cars to suit me,,not someone else. If my SS badging
> pisses someone off,that's their problem,,not mine.
> Anyone that worries whether my car is real or not is just a little anal.
> Strange but if I were to put six cylinder emblems on my SS,would people
> really give a damn? Probably not so why not the other way around?
> Not a popular opinion,I know,but that's mine & I'm sticking to it.
> Clint Hooper
>
>
>
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
> To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[396guy]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


Hmmm.  383KA.  Has a nice ring to it :*)

Dale McIntosh
ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold
67 SS/67 Elky
http://www.dalesplace.com

> 
> >Then I can forgo "No, it is not an SS". Instead, I can
> >claim it is a "kick ass" 67 Chevelle Malibu with
> >various upgrades and modifications.
> 
> Then you can say it's a KA model...(yuk...yuk)...that'll throw 'em off!!
> 
> 
> Kelly C. Hanna
> www.hannawoodworks.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
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> 

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Re: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[Clint Hooper]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


I've always built my cars to suit me,,not someone else. If my SS badging
pisses someone off,that's their problem,,not mine.
Anyone that worries whether my car is real or not is just a little anal.
Strange but if I were to put six cylinder emblems on my SS,would people
really give a damn? Probably not so why not the other way around?
Not a popular opinion,I know,but that's mine & I'm sticking to it.
Clint Hooper



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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List



>Then I can forgo "No, it is not an SS". Instead, I can
>claim it is a "kick ass" 67 Chevelle Malibu with
>various upgrades and modifications.

Then you can say it's a KA model...(yuk...yuk)...that'll throw 'em off!!


Kelly C. Hanna
www.hannawoodworks.com










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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[Ken's Email]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


Dale:

Good response below. And, as we are both aware there
are pros and cons to this issue. I have vascillated
back and forth. However, the more I have become
involved in this hobby, the more I learn. 

Again, I won't take sides since I have been on both.
But, I know that I have heard several individuals 
instantly say when describing their Chevelle Malibu's
(especially in the 66-67 year groups), "It is a
clone."
As if your accusing them of something. Then being the
Americans we are you hear, "...it is not a real SS..."

Since I have a real 67 SS and a 67 Chevelle Malibu, I
am leaning toward keeping what both are. However, with
the 67 Chevelle Malibu I want to modify a few things,
e.g., SS hood, lower moldings, maybe even the rear
black stripe. I like the idea of the new 383
lettering/
badging since this reflects what will be in it. 

Then I can forgo "No, it is not an SS". Instead, I can
claim it is a "kick ass" 67 Chevelle Malibu with 
various upgrades and modifications.

But let me be clear here, I have no qualms if others
want to clone their Chevelles to reflect an SS. And,
I also believe buyer should be aware. 

Just a few rambling thoughts. Thanks for the input.

Big Ken

--- 396guy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle
> Mailing List
>

> 
> Ken,
> 
> As Bill Vander Werf noted in an email I got with
> this one, OPG now has "383"
> badges in their catalog and notes there are three
> different styles.  The
> last one I have from them is 2000 so I'm not aware
> of the new ones.  To
> answer your specific question, I'd go with whatever
> style they have designed
> for 64-67 Chevelles; be it the 283/327 flag type
> (appropriate since it's a
> small block) or just the numbers themselves.  Guess
> I'll have to order a new
> OPG catalog and get caught up :)
> 
> Not to begin a diatribe, but as for the rest, maybe
> I've been misunderstood,
> maybe not but it's where I disagree with many.  I
> see absolutely nothing
> wrong with SS hood, moulding trim, suspension
> upgrades, even 396 or 427
> Turbo Jet flags if it has a big block.  It's the
> *SS* and *Super Sport*
> badging that I find objectionable.  It projects
> Super Sport to everyone who
> sees it when, in fact, it is not; identically
> equipped or no.  And, as you
> said, having to say it's not a Super Sport every
> time someone asks would
> seem to be a PITA as well as a bit embarrassing - at
> least to me.  Why some
> people get downright pi$$ed when you ask or point
> out their car is not a SS
> is beyond me.  Wonder why that is?
> 
> I also have a 67 Elky that, like many 66/67 Elky
> owners, I'll probably use
> the SS hood of my coupe and maybe even an extra set
> of rocker panel trim I
> have.  Like many, I like the SS "scoops" and the
> look of the lower trim as
> opposed to the Malibu flat hood and style trim. 
> I've always built my cars
> to suit my taste and that usually means
> "customizing" them to some extent
> and I enjoy the heck out of 'em!
> 
> If anyone has a scan of the 383 emblems, I'd be
> interested in seeing what
> they look like.  Appreciate it.
> 
> Dale McIntosh
> ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold
> 67 SS/67 Elky
> http://www.dalesplace.com
> 
> 
> 
> >
> > Dale:
> >
> > I know your the 67 Chevelle guy. I also own a 67
> SS
> > plus a 67 Malibu. I don't want to start a clone
> vs.
> > not to clone thread here. And I know that I build
> the
> > car the way I want. But, based on what you have
> seen
> > out there here is my question.
> >
> > If I decide not to clone the 67 Malibu what would
> be
> > appropriate engine badging on front fenders if I
> am
> > placing a 383 stroker in the Malibu, re: 350
> Badging ?
> >  My thought is if I do not go with a complete
> clone,
> > just make a few changes, re:
> > engine badging, SS hood, and maybe the lower edge
> > moldings on rocker panels.
> >
> > Note:  I have no problems with anyone clone-ing.
> > However, if I decide to sell the Malibu in a
> couple
> > of years I do not want to go through the hassle of
> > explaining "it is a clone...blah, blah, blah..."
> >
> > I am merely asking for a few ideas. I am not
> passing
> > judgment on whether to clone or not. Both are
> > acceptable to me if your honest.
> >
> > Thoughts,
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ken McD...
> 
> 
>
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To start 

Re: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[SUPRSPRT72]

I, give thumbs up  and 7 hail marys to that hehe 
 Ken 2 HeavyChevy Chevelle

RE: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List



>Not to begin a diatribe, but as for the rest, maybe I've been misunderstood,
>maybe not but it's where I disagree with many.  I see absolutely nothing
>wrong with SS hood, moulding trim, suspension upgrades, even 396 or 427
>Turbo Jet flags if it has a big block.  It's the *SS* and *Super Sport*
>badging that I find objectionable.  It projects Super Sport to everyone who
>sees it when, in fact, it is not; identically equipped or no.  And, as you
>said, having to say it's not a Super Sport every time someone asks would
>seem to be a PITA as well as a bit embarrassing - at least to me.  Why some
>people get downright pi$$ed when you ask or point out their car is not a SS
>is beyond me.  Wonder why that is?

I am with you on that one Dale, even when talking about the 78-87's (which 
were wheels, decals and mirror packages only). If it's not an SS, then 
leave it what it is. I plan to make the 83 look like my 78 with a front 
spoiler and a little less chrome trim on the outside, but I will not be 
putting SS badges on the car. Other than that, I'm the last person that 
gets fussy about it all being original. Neither one of mine are nor will 
they be. I venture to say that when I get a 70-72 someday, it won't be 
either.

Kelly C. Hanna
www.hannawoodworks.com










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RE: [Chevelle-List] Question for Dale=67 Malibu

[396guy]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List


Ken,

As Bill Vander Werf noted in an email I got with this one, OPG now has "383"
badges in their catalog and notes there are three different styles.  The
last one I have from them is 2000 so I'm not aware of the new ones.  To
answer your specific question, I'd go with whatever style they have designed
for 64-67 Chevelles; be it the 283/327 flag type (appropriate since it's a
small block) or just the numbers themselves.  Guess I'll have to order a new
OPG catalog and get caught up :)

Not to begin a diatribe, but as for the rest, maybe I've been misunderstood,
maybe not but it's where I disagree with many.  I see absolutely nothing
wrong with SS hood, moulding trim, suspension upgrades, even 396 or 427
Turbo Jet flags if it has a big block.  It's the *SS* and *Super Sport*
badging that I find objectionable.  It projects Super Sport to everyone who
sees it when, in fact, it is not; identically equipped or no.  And, as you
said, having to say it's not a Super Sport every time someone asks would
seem to be a PITA as well as a bit embarrassing - at least to me.  Why some
people get downright pi$$ed when you ask or point out their car is not a SS
is beyond me.  Wonder why that is?

I also have a 67 Elky that, like many 66/67 Elky owners, I'll probably use
the SS hood of my coupe and maybe even an extra set of rocker panel trim I
have.  Like many, I like the SS "scoops" and the look of the lower trim as
opposed to the Malibu flat hood and style trim.  I've always built my cars
to suit my taste and that usually means "customizing" them to some extent
and I enjoy the heck out of 'em!

If anyone has a scan of the 383 emblems, I'd be interested in seeing what
they look like.  Appreciate it.

Dale McIntosh
ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold
67 SS/67 Elky
http://www.dalesplace.com



>
> Dale:
>
> I know your the 67 Chevelle guy. I also own a 67 SS
> plus a 67 Malibu. I don't want to start a clone vs.
> not to clone thread here. And I know that I build the
> car the way I want. But, based on what you have seen
> out there here is my question.
>
> If I decide not to clone the 67 Malibu what would be
> appropriate engine badging on front fenders if I am
> placing a 383 stroker in the Malibu, re: 350 Badging ?
>  My thought is if I do not go with a complete clone,
> just make a few changes, re:
> engine badging, SS hood, and maybe the lower edge
> moldings on rocker panels.
>
> Note:  I have no problems with anyone clone-ing.
> However, if I decide to sell the Malibu in a couple
> of years I do not want to go through the hassle of
> explaining "it is a clone...blah, blah, blah..."
>
> I am merely asking for a few ideas. I am not passing
> judgment on whether to clone or not. Both are
> acceptable to me if your honest.
>
> Thoughts,
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ken McD...


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Re: [Chevelle-List] question: power steering pumps & 327/275 horse motors?

[Z16CHEVELLEGUY]

Paul:
the #3890462 late 1966 combustion chamber had 62.076 cc for all.the #3917291 has two versions / 1.94/1.50 / 63.305 cc and 2.02/1.60 / 63.995 cc.the combustion chamber was enlarged slightly on the 2.02 version. the valve guide boss diameter was increased to . 410 to accept the 2.02 / 1.60 valves.the book shows the #3892657 for most 1967 327/350 motors. the #3903352 was used mid to late 1967.the #3914660 was used prior to Feb 29,1968.the #3914678 was used for all small blocks except for the 307.this motor was used more prominently during the 1968 model year.
   Larry

Re: [Chevelle-List] question: power steering pumps & 327/275 horse motors?

[Paul Hernandez]

Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List



So what your saying is that each head casting flows the same if it werent
for the different valve sizes installed? The part #'s are just for the
different yrs built?Oh! and since this engine was found in a 67 4-door
Impala would this engine be the same for the chevelle 327's in 68 with
possibly different casting #'s on the heads.

P. Hernandez
68 chevelle SS



   

[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

Sent by:  To: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]   cc:  

velles.net    Subject:     Re: [Chevelle-List] 
question: power steering pumps  
   & 327/275 horse motors? 

   

11/28/2001 01:45 PM

Please respond to  

chevelle-list  

   

   





Paul:
the "camel hump" heads will show same number for both low and performance
heads. The early 1967 327 and 350 took a #3884520 and was available with
1.94/1.50 valves up to 300 HP. The 2.02/1.60 valves were used with the 325
and 350 HP motors. in late 1967 they used a #3917291. The same thing
happened then. same part number for heat / different size valves for HP.
The "camel hump" is just a casting symbol.
Larry




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Re: [Chevelle-List] question: power steering pumps & 327/275 horse motors?

[Z16CHEVELLEGUY]

Paul:
the "camel hump" heads will show same number for both low and performance heads. The early 1967 327 and 350 took a #3884520 and was available with 1.94/1.50 valves up to 300 HP. The 2.02/1.60 valves were used with the 325 and 350 HP motors. in late 1967 they used a #3917291. The same thing happened then. same part number for heat / different size valves for HP. The "camel hump" is just a casting symbol.
 Larry