Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Josh Muckley]

Yep, halfway.  That way guys like Jake wouldn't have to travel so
far...assuming he would want to make that trip more than once a year for
the screwpile race.

My wife also suggested Harrington Harbour.  A real nice place, just no town
to speak of.

What type of place do the list members look for?  Just a place to raft up
and maybe do a little lap around the cans?  Or a bigger town with amenities
and things to do and see?

The Holiday Inn in Solomons is also right on Back creek just up stream from
Beacon and Spring Cove.  They have a pretty swank pool and court yard area.

Josh

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 24, 2013 10:40 PM, "Chuck S"  wrote:

> Interesting.  Just checked the charts.  Solomans is halfway down the bay.
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Friday, May 24, 2013 5:21:10 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC
> 7-27
>
> Around Solomons?  Fine.  We have lots of 10+ depths up Back creek and Mill
> creek.  I would suggest the anchorage between Zahniser's and Beacon marina
> or the anchorage just past Harbor Island Marina.  Both anchorages provide
> relatively quick access to the town and most of the marinas.  The public
> pier has a free pump out with public restrooms.  I could research more
> about dingy piers if there is more interest.
>
> Josh
>
> --
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On May 24, 2013 5:06 PM, "Chuck S"  wrote:
>
>> How's the draft around there?
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Atlantic City, NJ
>> --
>> *From: *"Josh Muckley" 
>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Sent: *Friday, May 24, 2013 4:32:07 PM
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at
>> CRYC 7-27
>>
>> Might I suggest Solomons?  It would facilitate participation from members
>> throughout the Bay area.  Lots of anchorages and gunkholes and many of the
>> area marinas only charge a small fee for use of their facilities.  Great
>> walking town with groceries, West Marine, and some pretty decent
>> restaurants... Don't forget the world famous Tiki Bar!
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> --
>> When security matters.
>> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>> On May 23, 2013 9:57 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I am fighting with our CRYC webmistress to get actual 2013 data up there
>>> – I’ll let you know as soon as it is up.
>>>
>>> We do welcome anyone that wants to buy our chicken dinner to come –
>>> racing or not.
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> *Joe Della Barba*
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
>>> Brass
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:34 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at
>>> CRYC
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat
>>> Show in October. But I can’t recall if any details were ever firmed up.
>>> 
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on
>>> the Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so
>>> many of us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice
>>> get-together.  
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> I’m going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my
>>> schedule to do the Baltimore Light race
>>> http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annual%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdfand
>>>  the get together at the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July
>>> 26-28  http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm  .
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at
>>> his club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting
>>> information so I can get registered.
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> I’m planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat
>>> for about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the
>>> boat around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd  to do the Baltimore
>>> Light race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so
>>> I’m looking for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and
>>> offers some cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area
>>> between Solomons and Baltimore would seem practical..
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12’ and the draft is 5’6”. I belong to a
>>> couple of clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of
>>> America, in case anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity.
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space
>>> available, and how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a
>>> marina, or a club. **

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Chuck S]

Interesting. Just checked the charts. Solomans is halfway down the bay. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 5:21:10 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27 



Around Solomons? Fine. We have lots of 10+ depths up Back creek and Mill creek. 
I would suggest the anchorage between Zahniser's and Beacon marina or the 
anchorage just past Harbor Island Marina. Both anchorages provide relatively 
quick access to the town and most of the marinas. The public pier has a free 
pump out with public restrooms. I could research more about dingy piers if 
there is more interest. 

Josh 



-- 
When security matters. 
http://www.secure-my-email.com 
On May 24, 2013 5:06 PM, "Chuck S" < cscheaf...@comcast.net > wrote: 




How's the draft around there? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

From: "Josh Muckley" < muckl...@gmail.com > 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 4:32:07 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27 



Might I suggest Solomons? It would facilitate participation from members 
throughout the Bay area. Lots of anchorages and gunkholes and many of the area 
marinas only charge a small fee for use of their facilities. Great walking town 
with groceries, West Marine, and some pretty decent restaurants... Don't forget 
the world famous Tiki Bar! 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
Solomons, MD 



-- 
When security matters. 
http://www.secure-my-email.com 
On May 23, 2013 9:57 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" < joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov > wrote: 






I am fighting with our CRYC webmistress to get actual 2013 data up there – I’ll 
let you know as soon as it is up. 

We do welcome anyone that wants to buy our chicken dinner to come – racing or 
not. 




Joe Della Barba 





From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:34 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 



I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat Show 
in October. But I can’t recall if any details were ever firmed up. 



But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on the 
Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so many of 
us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice get-together. 



I’m going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my schedule to 
do the Baltimore Light race 
http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annual%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdf
 and the get together at the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July 26-28 
http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm . 



I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at his 
club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting information so I 
can get registered. 



I’m planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat for 
about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the boat 
around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd to do the Baltimore Light 
race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so I’m looking 
for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and offers some 
cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area between Solomons and 
Baltimore would seem practical.. 



Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12’ and the draft is 5’6”. I belong to a couple of 
clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of America, in case 
anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity. 



Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space available, and 
how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a marina, or a club. 



Thanks for any suggestions you might have. 





Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 










From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 10:38 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous? 





I thought there was some planning in progress for a Chesapeake Rendezvous for 
this fall, I cannot find any mention of it on the photo album site; is it still 
a go? If so, are there any dates or other details available? Thanks 



Richard 


1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584; 




Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255 
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com 




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Re: Stus-List Fwd:Paint job and half hull

[Chuck S]

Gorgeous! 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Chris Price"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 6:20:29 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd:Paint job and half hull 



I saw that someone had used flickr to post photos so I thought I'd share a 
photo of Pradel's paint job from last June and the half hull I made earlier 
this spring. 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/96279827@N06/8804072631/in/photostream/lightbox/ 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/96279827@N06/8814682368/in/photostream/lightbox/ 


Chris Price 
Pradel 
35 Mk 1 

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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[dwight veinot]

I am not sure I understand why the differences either, the MOB is still in
the water and needs help to get out of the water.I also carry a life sling
but for me its main purpose would be to assist with getting the MOB
onboard.the life ring provides support to the MOB who may not have a life
jacket on to stay afloat and the attached floating line makes it easier for
the MOB to grab onto the life ring and the pole marks the position where the
MOB was lost. pushing the MOB button on the gps chartplotter might help but
in actuality it may not be as accurate  a location device if we lose sight
in high seas or fog for example as the high riding pole  given tides, wind
and current which will effectively change the position of the MOB.the pole
should follow the MOB in currents tides and waves

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 7:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Dwight;

 

In the US all boats over 16 ft need to have a USCG Certified Type IV
throwable flotation device. It can be a life ring, a horseshoe buoy, a
floating cushion with handles - there are a lot of devices which carry the
USCG certification. The point is to have something that can be thrown to a
MOB to help keep them afloat.

 

I looked up the Transport Canada requirements, and they are quite different.
A "Lifebuoy" must be a ring at least 20" diameter with rope handles. A SOLAS
lifebuoy is at least 30" diameter. No other device is allowed to be
considered a lifebuoy. 

 

Below 6 meters (19 ft for us southerners) you need a floating throw line at
least 50 ft long. From 6 to 9 M you need a throw line or a lifebuoy with an
attached throw line. From 9 to 12 m you need a throw line and a lifebuoy
with throw line, and above 12 M you need two lifebuoys - one with and one
without a throw line.

 

It strikes me there is a different intent of the US and Canadian
requirements. In the US the intent is to provide flotation assistance for
the MOB. In Canada, the required devices seem intended to get someone back
aboard the boat.

 

When reading your post below, and before I looked up the TC requirements, I
was going to ask why throw the life ring and line over? Isn't the line going
to become a problem for maneuvering and potentially get fouled in the prop
or rudder when you approach the MOB? And once the MOB has the ring and the
line, how is he supposed to get the line back to you so you can haul him
aboard the boat ? (Which may be why TC requires Both a ring and a second
device on boats over 29 feet.)

 

I have half a dozen or so Type IV cushions, and if they are out in the
cockpit (never when racing) they go over for flotation. But I would still
chose to keep the device with the recovery line attached (in my case the
Life Sling) on the boat until I can get back to the MOB to pick him up.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

My first action would to be to deploy the life ring with attached floating
line so the MOB had something to catch onto and keep him afloat, then the
position marker or MOB pole if there is one onboard.I am not sure a MOB pole
is required but a life ring is required by Canadian Coast Guard standards

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13

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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Rick Brass]

Dwight;

 

In the US all boats over 16 ft need to have a USCG Certified Type IV
throwable flotation device. It can be a life ring, a horseshoe buoy, a
floating cushion with handles - there are a lot of devices which carry the
USCG certification. The point is to have something that can be thrown to a
MOB to help keep them afloat.

 

I looked up the Transport Canada requirements, and they are quite different.
A "Lifebuoy" must be a ring at least 20" diameter with rope handles. A SOLAS
lifebuoy is at least 30" diameter. No other device is allowed to be
considered a lifebuoy. 

 

Below 6 meters (19 ft for us southerners) you need a floating throw line at
least 50 ft long. From 6 to 9 M you need a throw line or a lifebuoy with an
attached throw line. From 9 to 12 m you need a throw line and a lifebuoy
with throw line, and above 12 M you need two lifebuoys - one with and one
without a throw line.

 

It strikes me there is a different intent of the US and Canadian
requirements. In the US the intent is to provide flotation assistance for
the MOB. In Canada, the required devices seem intended to get someone back
aboard the boat.

 

When reading your post below, and before I looked up the TC requirements, I
was going to ask why throw the life ring and line over? Isn't the line going
to become a problem for maneuvering and potentially get fouled in the prop
or rudder when you approach the MOB? And once the MOB has the ring and the
line, how is he supposed to get the line back to you so you can haul him
aboard the boat ? (Which may be why TC requires Both a ring and a second
device on boats over 29 feet.)

 

I have half a dozen or so Type IV cushions, and if they are out in the
cockpit (never when racing) they go over for flotation. But I would still
chose to keep the device with the recovery line attached (in my case the
Life Sling) on the boat until I can get back to the MOB to pick him up.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

My first action would to be to deploy the life ring with attached floating
line so the MOB had something to catch onto and keep him afloat, then the
position marker or MOB pole if there is one onboard.I am not sure a MOB pole
is required but a life ring is required by Canadian Coast Guard standards

 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd:Paint job and half hull

[Joel Aronson]

I'm impressed!

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 6:25 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:

> Very nice!
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax
>
> On 2013-05-24, at 19:20, Chris Price  wrote:
>
>> lightbox
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Fwd:Paint job and half hull

[Knowles Rich]

Very nice!

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-05-24, at 19:20, Chris Price  wrote:

> lightbox

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Re: Stus-List Fwd:Paint job and half hull

[Chris Price]

I saw that someone had used flickr to post photos so I thought I'd share a 
photo of Pradel's paint job from last June and the half hull I made earlier 
this spring. 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/96279827@N06/8804072631/in/photostream/lightbox/ 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/96279827@N06/8814682368/in/photostream/lightbox/ 


Chris Price 
Pradel 
35 Mk 1 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

[Rick Brass]

Bill, if your engine is like my Universal (AFAIK, all the current Universal
engines and the mid-sized Betas are marine-ized versions of Kubota diesels)
there is an electronic fuel lift pump that supplies low pressure fuel to
charge the injection pump. Once the engine is started, the injection pump
will actually suck fuel through the lift pump. If your engine is like mine,
shutting down the "ignition" would not stop the fuel flow.

 

I have a primary fuel filter (a Racor) up stream of the lift pump, which is
gravity fed from the tank. There is a  shut off up stream of the primary
filter, so I can shut off the fuel when changing the primary filter.

 

Only two things stop a diesel once it is going - stop the fuel flow or stop
the air flow.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

 

Ditto. 

Had a broken spring in the injector of my Kubota, engine ran up to 3 grand,
even shutting the ignition wouldn't stop it. (This also de-activates the
fuel supply solenoid, no manual shutoff)  Thank god the governor worked. I
ended up ripping off the fuel hose as I apparently couldn't think quickly
enough to plug the intake.  Then my buddy, who teaches solid model printing
, 'Printed' me a little plastic paddle, complete with instructions to place
over intake of engine to shut off engine.  So, now it hangs in my engine
compartment next to the intake!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Josh Muckley]

Around Solomons?  Fine.  We have lots of 10+ depths up Back creek and Mill
creek.  I would suggest the anchorage between Zahniser's and Beacon marina
or the anchorage just past Harbor Island Marina.  Both anchorages provide
relatively quick access to the town and most of the marinas.  The public
pier has a free pump out with public restrooms.  I could research more
about dingy piers if there is more interest.

Josh

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 24, 2013 5:06 PM, "Chuck S"  wrote:

> How's the draft around there?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Atlantic City, NJ
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Friday, May 24, 2013 4:32:07 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC
> 7-27
>
> Might I suggest Solomons?  It would facilitate participation from members
> throughout the Bay area.  Lots of anchorages and gunkholes and many of the
> area marinas only charge a small fee for use of their facilities.  Great
> walking town with groceries, West Marine, and some pretty decent
> restaurants... Don't forget the world famous Tiki Bar!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> Solomons, MD
>
> --
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> On May 23, 2013 9:57 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
> wrote:
>
>> I am fighting with our CRYC webmistress to get actual 2013 data up there
>> – I’ll let you know as soon as it is up.
>>
>> We do welcome anyone that wants to buy our chicken dinner to come –
>> racing or not.
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba*
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
>> Brass
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:34 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC
>> 
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat
>> Show in October. But I can’t recall if any details were ever firmed up. *
>> ***
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on
>> the Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so
>> many of us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice
>> get-together.  
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> I’m going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my
>> schedule to do the Baltimore Light race
>> http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annual%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdfand
>>  the get together at the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July
>> 26-28  http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm  .
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at
>> his club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting
>> information so I can get registered.
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> I’m planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat
>> for about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the
>> boat around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd  to do the Baltimore
>> Light race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so
>> I’m looking for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and
>> offers some cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area
>> between Solomons and Baltimore would seem practical..
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12’ and the draft is 5’6”. I belong to a
>> couple of clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of
>> America, in case anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity.
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space
>> available, and how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a
>> marina, or a club. 
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List 
>> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
>> *On Behalf Of *Richard N. Bush
>> *Sent:* Monday, May 20, 2013 10:38 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous?
>>
>> ** **
>>
>> I thought there was some planning in progress for a Chesapeake Rendezvous
>> for this fall, I cannot find any mention of it on the photo album site; is
>> it still a go? If so, are there any dates or other details available? Thanks
>> 
>>
>> Richard
>>
>> 1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584;
>>
>>
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>> 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40202
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>> ___
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> C

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Chuck S]

How's the draft around there? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Josh Muckley"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 4:32:07 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27 



Might I suggest Solomons? It would facilitate participation from members 
throughout the Bay area. Lots of anchorages and gunkholes and many of the area 
marinas only charge a small fee for use of their facilities. Great walking town 
with groceries, West Marine, and some pretty decent restaurants... Don't forget 
the world famous Tiki Bar! 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
Solomons, MD 



-- 
When security matters. 
http://www.secure-my-email.com 
On May 23, 2013 9:57 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" < joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov > wrote: 






I am fighting with our CRYC webmistress to get actual 2013 data up there – I’ll 
let you know as soon as it is up. 

We do welcome anyone that wants to buy our chicken dinner to come – racing or 
not. 




Joe Della Barba 





From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:34 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 



I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat Show 
in October. But I can’t recall if any details were ever firmed up. 



But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on the 
Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so many of 
us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice get-together. 



I’m going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my schedule to 
do the Baltimore Light race 
http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annual%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdf
 and the get together at the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July 26-28 
http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm . 



I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at his 
club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting information so I 
can get registered. 



I’m planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat for 
about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the boat 
around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd to do the Baltimore Light 
race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so I’m looking 
for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and offers some 
cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area between Solomons and 
Baltimore would seem practical.. 



Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12’ and the draft is 5’6”. I belong to a couple of 
clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of America, in case 
anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity. 



Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space available, and 
how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a marina, or a club. 



Thanks for any suggestions you might have. 





Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 










From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush 
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 10:38 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous? 





I thought there was some planning in progress for a Chesapeake Rendezvous for 
this fall, I cannot find any mention of it on the photo album site; is it still 
a go? If so, are there any dates or other details available? Thanks 



Richard 


1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584; 




Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255 
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Gary Nylander]

As part of our Wednesday night series, for about 12 or so years, we require 
each boat to do a man overboard drill. At first, we actually had someone jump 
overboard, but this got a bit hectic, so now we ask that in the proper spirit 
of things, the skipper or his/her designee toss a buoy or cushion overboard 
with no previous notice. To give proper incentive, you have five points added 
to your score (low point system) until you verify your drill.

You can't test the Lifesling that way, but you can realize how long it takes 
for the boat to get in order, slowed, and in position to retrieve. We did test 
the lifesling earlier and that was interesting as well. I'm glad that our 
designated jumper had a life vest on. it took longer to get back than one 
would expect.

Gary
St. Michaels MD
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 4:37 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures


  FWIW In the Safety at Sea demo they used a Lifesling for double handing.  
Just keep circling the victim and the line will come to the swimmer.

  Joel
  Sent from my iPad

  On May 24, 2013, at 4:14 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:


If under sail, I prefer to hove to immediately after pushing the MOB 
button.  That will almost immediately stop the boat and in many cases blow it 
back to the victim.  This is the drill for my wife and I as we predominantly 
double hand.  Without more crew and free hands it is challenging to catch a 
mainsail AND furl a headsail (heaven forbid a non-furler headsail).

Once you get hove-to it is easy to leave the helm and perform the rescue.  
If the hove-to does not get you (close enough) to the victim just let the 
headsail sheet out to tack over and then sail back to the victim.  By this time 
you can deploy the life sling and perform the rescue maneuver prescribed by 
them.

As we learned the hard way, don't try to sail to victim.  You will likely 
pass them by with surprising speed.  Sail past with the victim on the windward 
side and then turn into the wind as they pass somewhere behind the mast.  
Turning actually moves the stern away, again it gets you close but not too 
close.  You will again be hove-to where you can more easily perform a rescue.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com

Hey guys,

Nobody here has a GPS?  I think a very early action is a push or two on the 
MOB button... prominent on most plotters.

Push if ya got it! and toss the MOB pole.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:35 PM 23/05/2013, you wrote:

  Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought 
to be interesting.

  Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and 
the advantages of each.

  < http://www.gosailing.info/Man%20Overboard.htm>

  < http://www.rorc.org/general-conditions/man-overboard.html>

  Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or 
the leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of 
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery 
fails.

  Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what 
to do?

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

[Josh Muckley]

Jake, just for my own confirmation, if an engine is equipped with
decompression levers.  A run away diesel could be stopped by using the
levers right?

Josh

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 24, 2013 4:33 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> Steve,
>
> ** **
>
> The Detroit 4-71 and 6-71 diesels (among others) were two stroke diesels
> that were prone to “run away” when the rings got really bad…  I’ve only
> seen it happen once.  I don’t wish to see it again.  “Look out Captain, I
> think she’s going to blow!!!”.
>
> ** **
>
> Jake
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Midnight Mistress*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
> *   *
>
> [image: cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940]**
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Steve
> Thomas
> *Sent:* Friday, May 24, 2013 9:22 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel
>
> ** **
>
> City buses around here that were equipped with Detroit diesels had an
> emergency shut off built in that consisted of some sort of flap that would
> block the air supply. Pretty sure it was standard with those engines, but I
> don't know for certain.
>
>  
>
> Steve Thomas
>
> C&C27 MKIII
>
> Port Stanley, ON
>
>  
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
<>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Joel Aronson]

FWIW In the Safety at Sea demo they used a Lifesling for double handing.
 Just keep circling the victim and the line will come to the swimmer.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

On May 24, 2013, at 4:14 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

If under sail, I prefer to hove to immediately after pushing the MOB
button.  That will almost immediately stop the boat and in many cases blow
it back to the victim.  This is the drill for my wife and I as we
predominantly double hand.  Without more crew and free hands it is
challenging to catch a mainsail AND furl a headsail (heaven forbid a
non-furler headsail).

Once you get hove-to it is easy to leave the helm and perform the rescue.
If the hove-to does not get you (close enough) to the victim just let the
headsail sheet out to tack over and then sail back to the victim.  By this
time you can deploy the life sling and perform the rescue maneuver
prescribed by them.

As we learned the hard way, don't try to sail to victim.  You will likely
pass them by with surprising speed.  Sail past with the victim on the
windward side and then turn into the wind as they pass somewhere behind the
mast.  Turning actually moves the stern away, again it gets you close but
not too close.  You will again be hove-to where you can more easily perform
a rescue.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
 Hey guys,

Nobody here has a GPS?  I think a very early action is a push or two on the
MOB button... prominent on most plotters.

Push if ya got it! and toss the MOB pole.

****Cheers, Russ
*****Sweet *35 mk-1

At 10:35 PM 23/05/2013, you wrote:

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought
to be interesting.

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

< http://www.gosailing.info/Man%20Overboard.htm>

< http://www.rorc.org/general-conditions/man-overboard.html>

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery
fails.

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to
do?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

[Jake Brodersen]

Steve,

 

The Detroit 4-71 and 6-71 diesels (among others) were two stroke diesels
that were prone to "run away" when the rings got really bad.  I've only seen
it happen once.  I don't wish to see it again.  "Look out Captain, I think
she's going to blow!!!".

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Thomas
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

 

City buses around here that were equipped with Detroit diesels had an
emergency shut off built in that consisted of some sort of flap that would
block the air supply. Pretty sure it was standard with those engines, but I
don't know for certain.

 

Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII

Port Stanley, ON

 

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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Josh Muckley]

Might I suggest Solomons?  It would facilitate participation from members
throughout the Bay area.  Lots of anchorages and gunkholes and many of the
area marinas only charge a small fee for use of their facilities.  Great
walking town with groceries, West Marine, and some pretty decent
restaurants... Don't forget the world famous Tiki Bar!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
Solomons, MD

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 23, 2013 9:57 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> I am fighting with our CRYC webmistress to get actual 2013 data up there –
> I’ll let you know as soon as it is up.
>
> We do welcome anyone that wants to buy our chicken dinner to come – racing
> or not.
>
> ** **
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick
> Brass
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 9:34 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC*
> ***
>
> ** **
>
> I recall the conversation about a get together at the Annapolis Sailboat
> Show in October. But I can’t recall if any details were ever firmed up. **
> **
>
> ** **
>
> But Joe Della Barba invited us all to the annual regatta at this club on
> the Corsica River (Eastern Shore across from Baltimore/Annapolis). With so
> many of us in the middle and upper Chesapeake, it could be a really nice
> get-together.  
>
> ** **
>
> I’m going to be the bay for a while this summer and am arranging my
> schedule to do the Baltimore Light race
> http://www.cbyra.org/RaceInfo/2012/206/20120728%20-%20206%20-%20CRYC%20Annual%20Race%20Over-NOR_GSI-20120307a%20-%20FINAL.pdfand
>  the get together at the CRYC Annual Regatta over the weekend of July
> 26-28  http://www.cryc.org/annual.htm  .
>
> ** **
>
> I want to thank Joe Della Barba for inviting us all to a get together at
> his club, and especially for the help he has given me in getting
> information so I can get registered.
>
> ** **
>
> I’m planning a cruise to the Chesapeake, but will need to drop the boat
> for about three weeks and return home in early July. I plan to leave the
> boat around June 28th, and return on July 22nd or 23rd  to do the Baltimore
> Light race on July 27th and attend the C&C Owners rendezvous at CRYC, so
> I’m looking for a spot for the boat that is within reach of Baltimore and
> offers some cruising destinations in the area. Something in the area
> between Solomons and Baltimore would seem practical..
>
> ** **
>
> Imzadi is a C&C 38. Beam is 12’ and the draft is 5’6”. I belong to a
> couple of clubs in my area that have reciprocity through Yacht Clubs of
> America, in case anyone knows of a club that offers reciprocity.
>
> ** **
>
> Could any listers let me know if you have a suggestion for space
> available, and how I would make arrangements? It could be a private dock, a
> marina, or a club. 
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks for any suggestions you might have.
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Richard N. Bush
> *Sent:* Monday, May 20, 2013 10:38 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous?
>
> ** **
>
> I thought there was some planning in progress for a Chesapeake Rendezvous
> for this fall, I cannot find any mention of it on the photo album site; is
> it still a go? If so, are there any dates or other details available? Thanks
> 
>
> Richard
>
> 1987 33-II Ohio River, Mile 584;
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
> Louisville, Kentucky 40202
> 502-584-7255
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Josh Muckley]

If under sail, I prefer to hove to immediately after pushing the MOB
button.  That will almost immediately stop the boat and in many cases blow
it back to the victim.  This is the drill for my wife and I as we
predominantly double hand.  Without more crew and free hands it is
challenging to catch a mainsail AND furl a headsail (heaven forbid a
non-furler headsail).

Once you get hove-to it is easy to leave the helm and perform the rescue.
If the hove-to does not get you (close enough) to the victim just let the
headsail sheet out to tack over and then sail back to the victim.  By this
time you can deploy the life sling and perform the rescue maneuver
prescribed by them.

As we learned the hard way, don't try to sail to victim.  You will likely
pass them by with surprising speed.  Sail past with the victim on the
windward side and then turn into the wind as they pass somewhere behind the
mast.  Turning actually moves the stern away, again it gets you close but
not too close.  You will again be hove-to where you can more easily perform
a rescue.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
 Hey guys,

Nobody here has a GPS?  I think a very early action is a push or two on the
MOB button... prominent on most plotters.

Push if ya got it! and toss the MOB pole.

****Cheers, Russ
*****Sweet *35 mk-1

At 10:35 PM 23/05/2013, you wrote:

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought
to be interesting.

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

< http://www.gosailing.info/Man%20Overboard.htm>

< http://www.rorc.org/general-conditions/man-overboard.html>

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery
fails.

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to
do?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Bill Coleman]

That is a really interesting tip to store away, and (Hopefully) remember!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 11:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

 

A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had
overheating problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo
for its usual bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger,
ran through the whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and
dropped it back in the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we
took it out. About a mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check
everything again. Ran it at the dock, great flow, put a load on it, great
flow, ran for about half an hour at cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took
it back out - lasted a mile back in again.

 

It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as
Bob said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm
out in the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good
sailing week) decided a new water straining system with better gasket
sealing was in order.

 

All is well.

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From: Robert Abbott   

To: Dennis C.   ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM

Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

 

Don:

One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw
water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will
suck in air and not enough water to cool your engine.

If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put
it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.  





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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Gary Nylander]

A friend of mine had a similar problem on his motorsailor. He had overheating 
problems, so took it to the mechanics at the yard in Key Largo for its usual 
bottom job and the motor work. Cored out the heat exchanger, ran through the 
whole water system (has a trans cooler in line as well) and dropped it back in 
the water. Ran great, great water flow at the dock, so we took it out. About a 
mile out, overheating! No water. Back in, check everything again. Ran it at the 
dock, great flow, put a load on it, great flow, ran for about half an hour at 
cruising rpm with load, great flow. Took it back out - lasted a mile back 
in again.

It turned out that there was a small air leak in the raw water strainer, as Bob 
said. Why it would run at the dock and be OK, and not at the same rpm out in 
the ocean is still a mystery, but my friend (after blowing a good sailing week) 
decided a new water straining system with better gasket sealing was in order.

All is well.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert Abbott 
  To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:56 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens


  Don:

  One more thing to check.check to see that your 'o-ring seal' on your raw 
water strainer is tight .if it isn't, your water cooling system will suck 
in air and not enough water to cool your engine.

  If you take the top off the strainer out to clean it, you might not have put 
it back together tight enough.  How do I know this?  Daa!

  Bob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.  



  On 2013/05/23 11:13 PM, Dennis C. wrote:

Good suggestion from Rich.  Even a new impeller can spin.  

Also, there may be a suction leak on the intake side of the pump.  
Disconnect the discharge at the pump.  Start the engine and check for flow 
there.  (It won't hurt the engine to run a couple minutes with no water flow.)  
Try to stop the flow by blocking the hose with a rag or your hand.  If the flow 
and pressure are good, move downstream.  If no flow or you can stop the flow 
then the issue is the pump or ahead of the pump.

If the flow is good, disconnect the hose to the little elbow you cleaned.  
Check for flow and pressure there.  

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA






--
  From: Knowles Rich 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:35 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens



  Suggest checking the raw water pump impellor to make sure the bronze 
insert is not spinning inside the rubber impellor. This can happen with a new 
or old unit and can fool you in an inspection as the rubber vanes may look 
perfect. 


  Rich Knowles
  Indigo. LF38
  Halifax

  On 2013-05-23, at 22:00, "Don Jonsson"  wrote:


  Hi

  I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The 
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because 
generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

  So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper 
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through 
them and the engine.

  I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is 
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I 
knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put it 
on.  Started up and no water.

  I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly 
corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together 
and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat 
out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam 
everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.

  Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No 
water.

  So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't 
that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't think 
although I will replace it.  

  The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And 
I'm stumped. 

  This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has 
anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

  Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic 
had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers for 
that engine?

  Thanks to anyone that can help.
  Don

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Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27

[Gary Nylander]

Yes. Roller furler above deck is 6 seconds credit, a fixed prop (depends on 
what kind) gets credit and you get hit for oversized genoas or chutes. Ches Bay 
does not give any credit for undersized anything. 

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:58 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 7-27


  A "1" would be cool!  Rating will change for non-folding prop, furler or 
oversized/undersized jib or chute.



  On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 1:50 PM, Gary Nylander  
wrote:

Joel, he could use the number 1 and the C&C logo. His is hull number 1 of 
the 30's.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Aronson 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 1:46 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Rendezvous - Weekend with Joe at CRYC 
7-27


  To get a rating you need to go to: 
http://www.phrfchesbay.org/bin/main.php 


  They will assign a sail number which needs to go on both sides of all 
sails.  Sailrite sells them for about $2. each.  You'll need 8 inch high 
numbers (I think)


  Rick



  On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 1:41 PM, rick bushie  
wrote:

Hey Joe,

Anchovy is interested in participating in the Balto Light race and 
subsequent get together.  We don't, however, have a phrf rating or really know 
how to get one or if we really want to get one.  We don't race (mostly because 
the boat's faster than her skipper).  Suggestions?

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 30-1
Worton Creek, MD

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  Joel 
  301 541 8551 


--


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  -- 
  Joel 
  301 541 8551 


--


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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[dreuge]

Hi,

My raw water cooled 2QM15 had a problem of intermitting over heating.  I check 
and replaced many things: hoses, belts, impeller, ...   I even pickled the 
engine with vinegar and turned over water pump impeller backing plate thinking 
the wear was limiting flow.   I even thought I licked the problem.  After a big 
trip (2 two-days gulf crossings), I left the boat for a few weeks and when I 
returned, the engine was seized.  It turned out the  head gasket was slightly 
blown which let raw water in the cylinder and over two weeks corroded/seized a 
piston.  

I discovered the real reason for the heating problem(and likely the reason for 
blowing a head gasket) when I fixed the engine:  severe salt scale build up!

The picture below is my block with the cylinder selves removed showing what was 
likely 33 yrs of scale build up.   

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/7782378010/in/set-72157631067396554

I happily rebuilt the engine(another story) but I strongly suggest that anyone 
with a raw water system regularly flush the engine with a good agent like 
barnacle buster (and don't cheap your self by using vinegar).   The $30-$50 for 
barnacle buster is a lot less than the $800 I spent rebuilding my yanmar. 


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

Begin forwarded message:

> Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:00:17 -0700
> From: "Don Jonsson" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens
> Message-ID: <023e01ce581a$0e7118d0$2b534a70$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
> culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow, because
> generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.
> 
> 
> 
> So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper cleaning.
> I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing through them and
> the engine.
> 
> 
> 
> I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
> supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket, but I
> knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new gasket and put
> it on.  Started up and no water.
> 
> 
> 
> I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly corroded
> but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back together and
> started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took the thermostat
> out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water running, no steam
> everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be sure.
> 
> 
> 
> Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No water.
> 
> 
> 
> So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it wasn't
> that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat - I don't
> think although I will replace it.  
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And I'm
> stumped. 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has anyone
> had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local mechanic
> had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find part numbers
> for that engine?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to anyone that can help.
> 
> Don
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[Knowles Rich]

On the Yanmars, a large tapered wood through hull plug will fit the intake air 
horn and stop the airflow. Works well for noisy crew too.
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Steve Thomas]

There is nothing to prevent you from having safety equipment of any type, so 
long as you have at least the minimum mandatory
equipment on board, and a life ring is mandatory.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of dwight veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:59 AM
To: 'Allen Miles'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures


I have a horseshoe as well but I don't believe the horseshoe is considered 
adequate by Canadian Coast Guard standards.a fully
closed life ring is what they require although I have never been challenged for 
carrying the horseshoe on the stern.I would much
prefer as a MOB getting hit in the head by a flying horseshoe than by a solid 
polymer life ring



Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Allen Miles
Sent: May 24, 2013 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures



We've practiced this maneuver as part of an Albemarle Sail & Power Squadron 
demonstration of the difficulties in recovering MOB.
Horseshoe goes into the water as soon as MOB declared to give helm a more 
visible target and victim added buoyancy.  We deploy
Life Sling when approaching downwind and steer a comma course to bring sling to 
MOB.  If you circle, sling will never approach
MOB.

In four foot waves you'll lose MOB in troughs unless they're close to a highly 
visible floating object.  My old horseshoe was
bright orange:  Sandy deposited it who knows where.  New one is white.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA

-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures




I use a Life Sling with 100 ft of floating line instead of a life ring, but 
that said I see no purpose to deploying it with the
MOB pole. The boat is already away from the MOB and moving further away, 
available manpower is better used for sail handling, and
the float and line would just be another potential complication when we stop 
the boat, strike sail, and start the engine. I'd
rather deploy it in an orderly manner as we move back to the MOB. That way we 
can stream it behind the boat and circle the MOB to
bring the line and float into the person in the water.





Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures



Rick



What about the life ring with a long (50 feet) floating line attached.does that 
go over automatically when you deploy the MOB
pole?



Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:29 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures



I tell my crew that the person who yells "Man Overboard" then has only one job 
- to point one hand at the person in the water and
to NOT take their eyes off the head of the person.



To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your 
fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back
and see if you can find your fender.



Helmsman's first job when hearing "Man Overboard" is to get the MOB pole into 
the water. In case the first person slips in doing
their job.



Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up the 
headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the
MOB. I have a Life Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under 
power to bring the Life Sling to him, and then pull
him in to the stern boarding ladder. If I need to bring someone over the side, 
my main halyard is long enough to run through a
snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which will allow me to 
use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the
cabin top as a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference 
would be to use the leeward side, since the MOB
would not need to swim after the boat as it drifts down wind faster than a man 
in the water ever will.





Rck Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures



Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to be 
interesting.



Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the 
advantages of each.











Note the 

Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[Don Wagner]

I owned a trawler with 2  320 HP Caterpillar 3208T engines. It had an engine 
room automatic fire suppression system using Halon 
In case of an engine room fire, and if the Halon system activated, there was an 
automatic shut down system that activated
I believe it shut off the air intake somehow, since diesels  can run on Halon 
injected into the air intake even if the fuel is shut off.

I think such a system is required by USCG and insurance companies where you 
have automatic Halon fuel suppression systems installed in an enclosed engine 
room.
Simply shutting of the fuel will not stop the engine if the engine room is 
flooded with Halon or other similar HFCs.
The fire will be extinguished (no oxygen) but a diesel will run with the Halon 
environment

West Marine sells devices for this purpose--- see page 187 of their 2013 
catalog.

Don Wagner 
Der  Baron
C&C 41 CB




  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:37 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel


  Feeling the "suction" is a diagnostic method that will also kill the engine 
in short time.  Though, as Rick said, an engine with leaking rings would not 
necessarily stop.

  Additionally, cracking the fuel supply fittings to the injectors while the 
engine is running is also a diagnostic method for determining a failed 
injector.  1 of 3 injectors and the engine runs rough.  2 of 3 game over.

  All that being said it would be safer and easier to pull the decompression 
lever(s).  No compression...no diesel.  Do this while its in gear and the thing 
stops almost instantly.

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk



  -- 
  When security matters.
  http://www.secure-my-email.com

  On May 24, 2013 8:08 AM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

I suppose the engine would stop, but it might be from the blood and tissue 
torn off your hand by the vacuum if the air intake. Seriously, it is a LOT of 
vacuum.



Another ill-advised method of stopping a diesel is to put a rag over/into 
the air intake. The diesel stops, but then you need to rebuild the cylinder 
head to get the fabric parts out of the intake valves.



Assuming the engine won’t shut off because the rings are badly worn and it 
is running on fumes sucked into the cylinder from the oil pan, the best 
alternative is to use a flat metal plate or something like a saucer from the 
galley to put over the air intake horn. I’m not sure what I would do with my 
Universal, which has a circular “can” full of “Brillo pad”-like metal screen 
for an intake filter.



If the engine does not stop or is a runaway because of a problem in the 
fuel injection pump, the best thing to do is shut off the fuel using the shut 
off valve between the tank and your primary fuel filter. Or you could take a 
wrench and loosen the nut at the connection from the injection lines to the 
fuel injectors. If you have a leak there, the injectors stop working and the 
engine stops. I’d be reluctant to try that with engine running, belts whirling, 
pulleys spinning, and everything vibrating – but sometimes you do what you need 
to.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC









From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
Muckley
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel



Are we assuming a run away diesel?  Why not just put your hand over the 
intake pipe?  I assume that is where you are spraying "stuff".

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk




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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[dwight veinot]

I have a horseshoe as well but I don't believe the horseshoe is considered
adequate by Canadian Coast Guard standards.a fully closed life ring is what
they require although I have never been challenged for carrying the
horseshoe on the stern.I would much prefer as a MOB getting hit in the head
by a flying horseshoe than by a solid polymer life ring

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Allen
Miles
Sent: May 24, 2013 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

We've practiced this maneuver as part of an Albemarle Sail & Power Squadron
demonstration of the difficulties in recovering MOB. Horseshoe goes into the
water as soon as MOB declared to give helm a more visible target and victim
added buoyancy.  We deploy Life Sling when approaching downwind and steer a
comma course to bring sling to MOB.  If you circle, sling will never
approach MOB.

In four foot waves you'll lose MOB in troughs unless they're close to a
highly visible floating object.  My old horseshoe was bright orange:  Sandy
deposited it who knows where.  New one is white.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA

-Original Message- 
From: Rick Brass 
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:07 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures 




I use a Life Sling with 100 ft of floating line instead of a life ring, but
that said I see no purpose to deploying it with the MOB pole. The boat is
already away from the MOB and moving further away, available manpower is
better used for sail handling, and the float and line would just be another
potential complication when we stop the boat, strike sail, and start the
engine. I'd rather deploy it in an orderly manner as we move back to the
MOB. That way we can stream it behind the boat and circle the MOB to bring
the line and float into the person in the water.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Rick

 

What about the life ring with a long (50 feet) floating line attached.does
that go over automatically when you deploy the MOB pole?

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:29 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

I tell my crew that the person who yells "Man Overboard" then has only one
job - to point one hand at the person in the water and to NOT take their
eyes off the head of the person.

 

To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your
fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back and see if you can
find your fender.

 

Helmsman's first job when hearing "Man Overboard" is to get the MOB pole
into the water. In case the first person slips in doing their job.

 

Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up
the headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the MOB. I have a Life
Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under power to bring
the Life Sling to him, and then pull him in to the stern boarding ladder. If
I need to bring someone over the side, my main halyard is long enough to run
through a snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which
will allow me to use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the cabin top as
a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference would be
to use the leeward side, since the MOB would not need to swim after the boat
as it drifts down wind faster than a man in the water ever will.

 

 

Rck Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to
be interesting.

 

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

 



 



 

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery
fails.

 

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to
do?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13

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No virus found 

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[sam . c . salter]

I have a leak too.My solution is to try and learn to love it! Sam Salter C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta   From: Stevan PlavsaSent: Friday, May 24, 2013 7:51 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 LeakI think someone already suggested it, but could the wiring be wicking water from either the aft end of the boat or the mast, if any of those wires run forward?I've been following this thread with interest, it's like a good mystery novel. I have a leak as well but I'm pretty sure mine is related to the hatch cover. With the dodger up the boat stay dry!
SteveSuhana, C&C 32TorontoOn Fri, May 24, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR  wrote:
Yeah...already did that. I took every cover off of everything on the stbd side. (4 in all)

Nothing.

It was maddening.

My leak is coming from the little dip in the headliner an inch aft of the electrical panel.  If you reach up in there, you find that they used this as a channel to run the wiring toward the aft end of the boatin mine they must have run the wires in the headliner before putting it on the boat..then put a thin layer of glass over the channel to keep it all in place. The water emerges from this channel as a very slow drip.


-Keith


-Original Message-
From: Alan Bergen [mailto:alan-at-h...@comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Remove the inspection panel above the nav station, and lay a paper towel under any wiring in the area as far forward of the inspection panel as you can reach.  The leak can be anywhere forward of where it appears, before it works its way to where you think it might be.  The leak could be from the companionway slide, or it could be dripping down any of the mast wiring that comes back toward the nav station.



Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Stevan Plavsa]

I think someone already suggested it, but could the wiring be wicking water
from either the aft end of the boat or the mast, if any of those wires run
forward?
I've been following this thread with interest, it's like a good mystery
novel. I have a leak as well but I'm pretty sure mine is related to the
hatch cover. With the dodger up the boat stay dry!

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, May 24, 2013 at 8:42 AM, Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR <
keith.morgenst...@navy.mil> wrote:

> Yeah...already did that. I took every cover off of everything on the stbd
> side. (4 in all)
>
> Nothing.
>
> It was maddening.
>
> My leak is coming from the little dip in the headliner an inch aft of the
> electrical panel.  If you reach up in there, you find that they used this
> as a channel to run the wiring toward the aft end of the boatin mine
> they must have run the wires in the headliner before putting it on the
> boat..then put a thin layer of glass over the channel to keep it all in
> place. The water emerges from this channel as a very slow drip.
>
> -Keith
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Alan Bergen [mailto:alan-at-h...@comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:39
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak
>
> Remove the inspection panel above the nav station, and lay a paper towel
> under any wiring in the area as far forward of the inspection panel as you
> can reach.  The leak can be anywhere forward of where it appears, before it
> works its way to where you think it might be.  The leak could be from the
> companionway slide, or it could be dripping down any of the mast wiring
> that comes back toward the nav station.
>
>
> Alan Bergen
> C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Allen Miles]

We've practiced this maneuver as part of an Albemarle Sail & Power Squadron demonstration of the difficulties in recovering MOB. Horseshoe goes into the water as soon as MOB declared to give helm a more visible target and victim added buoyancy.  We deploy Life Sling when approaching downwind and steer a comma course to bring sling to MOB.  If you circle, sling will never approach MOB.In four foot waves you'll lose MOB in troughs unless they're close to a highly visible floating object.  My old horseshoe was bright orange:  Sandy deposited it who knows where.  New one is white.Allen MilesS/V Septima 30-2Hampton, VA-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass 
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures






I use a Life Sling with 100 ft of floating line instead of a life ring, but that said I see no purpose to deploying it with the MOB pole. The boat is already away from the MOB and moving further away, available manpower is better used for sail handling, and the float and line would just be another potential complication when we stop the boat, strike sail, and start the engine. I’d rather deploy it in an orderly manner as we move back to the MOB. That way we can stream it behind the boat and circle the MOB to bring the line and float into the person in the water.  Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinotSent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:37 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures Rick What about the life ring with a long (50 feet) floating line attached…does that go over automatically when you deploy the MOB pole? Dwight VeinotC&C 35 MKII, AliannaHead of St. Margaret's Bay, NS From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick BrassSent: May 24, 2013 9:29 AMTo: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures I tell my crew that the person who yells “Man Overboard” then has only one job – to point one hand at the person in the water and to NOT take their eyes off the head of the person. To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back and see if you can find your fender. Helmsman’s first job when hearing “Man Overboard” is to get the MOB pole into the water. In case the first person slips in doing their job. Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up the headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the MOB. I have a Life Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under power to bring the Life Sling to him, and then pull him in to the stern boarding ladder. If I need to bring someone over the side, my main halyard is long enough to run through a snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which will allow me to use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the cabin top as a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference would be to use the leeward side, since the MOB would not need to swim after the boat as it drifts down wind faster than a man in the water ever will.  Rck BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AMTo: CnClistSubject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to be interesting. Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the advantages of each.   Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery fails. Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to do? Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LANo virus found in this message.Checked by AVG - www.avg.comVersion: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13

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Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[Josh Muckley]

Feeling the "suction" is a diagnostic method that will also kill the engine
in short time.  Though, as Rick said, an engine with leaking rings would
not necessarily stop.

Additionally, cracking the fuel supply fittings to the injectors while the
engine is running is also a diagnostic method for determining a failed
injector.  1 of 3 injectors and the engine runs rough.  2 of 3 game over.

All that being said it would be safer and easier to pull the decompression
lever(s).  No compression...no diesel.  Do this while its in gear and the
thing stops almost instantly.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

-- 
When security matters.
http://www.secure-my-email.com
On May 24, 2013 8:08 AM, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

> I suppose the engine would stop, but it might be from the blood and tissue
> torn off your hand by the vacuum if the air intake. Seriously, it is a LOT
> of vacuum.
>
> ** **
>
> Another ill-advised method of stopping a diesel is to put a rag over/into
> the air intake. The diesel stops, but then you need to rebuild the cylinder
> head to get the fabric parts out of the intake valves.
>
> ** **
>
> Assuming the engine won’t shut off because the rings are badly worn and it
> is running on fumes sucked into the cylinder from the oil pan, the best
> alternative is to use a flat metal plate or something like a saucer from
> the galley to put over the air intake horn. I’m not sure what I would do
> with my Universal, which has a circular “can” full of “Brillo pad”-like
> metal screen for an intake filter.
>
> ** **
>
> If the engine does not stop or is a runaway because of a problem in the
> fuel injection pump, the best thing to do is shut off the fuel using the
> shut off valve between the tank and your primary fuel filter. Or you could
> take a wrench and loosen the nut at the connection from the injection lines
> to the fuel injectors. If you have a leak there, the injectors stop working
> and the engine stops. I’d be reluctant to try that with engine running,
> belts whirling, pulleys spinning, and everything vibrating – but sometimes
> you do what you need to.
>
> ** **
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:34 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel
>
> ** **
>
> Are we assuming a run away diesel?  Why not just put your hand over the
> intake pipe?  I assume that is where you are spraying "stuff".
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> ** **
>
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Russ & Melody]

Hey guys,

Nobody here has a GPS?  I think a very early action is a push or two 
on the MOB button... prominent on most plotters.


Push if ya got it! and toss the MOB pole.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:35 PM 23/05/2013, you wrote:
Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This 
ought to be interesting.


Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures 
and the advantages of each.






Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward 
or the leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate 
deployment of the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first 
attempt at recovery fails.


Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know 
what to do?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[dwight veinot]

One other thing after all this happened, her husband who was regular crew
with me was heard to say, "you saved her, now she's yours to keep" :-)

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: May 24, 2013 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

My first action would to be to deploy the life ring with attached floating
line so the MOB had something to catch onto and keep him afloat, then the
position marker or MOB pole if there is one onboard.I am not sure a MOB pole
is required but a life ring is required by Canadian Coast Guard standards

 

I hope I never have to deal with the situation again and with the cold water
we have around here it is very difficult to find a subject who will offer to
go overboard so that the procedures can be practiced.  Last time it happened
on my boat was during a broach under spinnaker where a lady slid from the
windward rail right over the cabin top and off the leeward rail into the
water.lucky enough a very aware crew member who was trimming the sail saw it
happen and reached in to grab her by the shirt and haul her aboard with one
hand as the boat was sailing by.we continued and placed quite well in that
race and she spent the sunny afternoon in oversized rain gear because that
was the only dry clothing we had onboard for her to change into.she took it
all very well and was full of laughter but it could have been a very bad
day, we were all aware of that.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

I use a Life Sling with 100 ft of floating line instead of a life ring, but
that said I see no purpose to deploying it with the MOB pole. The boat is
already away from the MOB and moving further away, available manpower is
better used for sail handling, and the float and line would just be another
potential complication when we stop the boat, strike sail, and start the
engine. I'd rather deploy it in an orderly manner as we move back to the
MOB. That way we can stream it behind the boat and circle the MOB to bring
the line and float into the person in the water.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Rick

 

What about the life ring with a long (50 feet) floating line attached.does
that go over automatically when you deploy the MOB pole?

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:29 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

I tell my crew that the person who yells "Man Overboard" then has only one
job - to point one hand at the person in the water and to NOT take their
eyes off the head of the person.

 

To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your
fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back and see if you can
find your fender.

 

Helmsman's first job when hearing "Man Overboard" is to get the MOB pole
into the water. In case the first person slips in doing their job.

 

Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up
the headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the MOB. I have a Life
Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under power to bring
the Life Sling to him, and then pull him in to the stern boarding ladder. If
I need to bring someone over the side, my main halyard is long enough to run
through a snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which
will allow me to use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the cabin top as
a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference would be
to use the leeward side, since the MOB would not need to swim after the boat
as it drifts down wind faster than a man in the water ever will.

 

 

Rck Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to
be interesting.

 

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

 



 



 

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment o

Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[dwight veinot]

My first action would to be to deploy the life ring with attached floating
line so the MOB had something to catch onto and keep him afloat, then the
position marker or MOB pole if there is one onboard.I am not sure a MOB pole
is required but a life ring is required by Canadian Coast Guard standards

 

I hope I never have to deal with the situation again and with the cold water
we have around here it is very difficult to find a subject who will offer to
go overboard so that the procedures can be practiced.  Last time it happened
on my boat was during a broach under spinnaker where a lady slid from the
windward rail right over the cabin top and off the leeward rail into the
water.lucky enough a very aware crew member who was trimming the sail saw it
happen and reached in to grab her by the shirt and haul her aboard with one
hand as the boat was sailing by.we continued and placed quite well in that
race and she spent the sunny afternoon in oversized rain gear because that
was the only dry clothing we had onboard for her to change into.she took it
all very well and was full of laughter but it could have been a very bad
day, we were all aware of that.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

I use a Life Sling with 100 ft of floating line instead of a life ring, but
that said I see no purpose to deploying it with the MOB pole. The boat is
already away from the MOB and moving further away, available manpower is
better used for sail handling, and the float and line would just be another
potential complication when we stop the boat, strike sail, and start the
engine. I'd rather deploy it in an orderly manner as we move back to the
MOB. That way we can stream it behind the boat and circle the MOB to bring
the line and float into the person in the water.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Rick

 

What about the life ring with a long (50 feet) floating line attached.does
that go over automatically when you deploy the MOB pole?

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:29 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

I tell my crew that the person who yells "Man Overboard" then has only one
job - to point one hand at the person in the water and to NOT take their
eyes off the head of the person.

 

To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your
fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back and see if you can
find your fender.

 

Helmsman's first job when hearing "Man Overboard" is to get the MOB pole
into the water. In case the first person slips in doing their job.

 

Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up
the headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the MOB. I have a Life
Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under power to bring
the Life Sling to him, and then pull him in to the stern boarding ladder. If
I need to bring someone over the side, my main halyard is long enough to run
through a snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which
will allow me to use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the cabin top as
a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference would be
to use the leeward side, since the MOB would not need to swim after the boat
as it drifts down wind faster than a man in the water ever will.

 

 

Rck Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to
be interesting.

 

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

 



 



 

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery
fails.

 

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to
do?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by 

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

[Steve Thomas]

City buses around here that were equipped with Detroit diesels had an emergency 
shut off built in that consisted of some sort of
flap that would block the air supply. Pretty sure it was standard with those 
engines, but I don't know for certain.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Bill Coleman
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 9:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel


Ditto.

Had a broken spring in the injector of my Kubota, engine ran up to 3 grand, 
even shutting the ignition wouldn't stop it. (This
also de-activates the fuel supply solenoid, no manual shutoff)  Thank god the 
governor worked. I ended up ripping off the fuel
hose as I apparently couldn't think quickly enough to plug the intake.  Then my 
buddy, who teaches solid model printing , 'Printed
' me a little plastic paddle, complete with instructions to place over intake 
of engine to shut off engine.  So, now it hangs in
my engine compartment next to the intake!



Bill Coleman

C&C 39



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
bria...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel









  The trouble with various sprays is that they may or may not work, or may 
damage the engine. My suggestion is to cut off the air
flow at the intake. When my engine Yanmar  4JH "ran away" (injection pump 
problem) I used a nearby small plastic container to
block the air intake. Engine slowed immediately and stopped.



  Bill

  MYSTY

  Landfall 39.



  In a message dated 5/17/2013 11:19:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
paradigmat...@gmail.com writes:

Urethane spray foam will do the job no problem.



On 17 May 2013 20:07, Steve Thomas  wrote:

Freon probably would have worked, and was available everywhere.

Can't think of anything that is readily available now that wouldn't also 
hurt your engine.



Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 10:10 PM
To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

A long time ago, someone suggested keeping a spray can of something to stop 
a diesel.  What was that?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ




From: "Bill Bina" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 6:08:27 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a diesel

WD40 is very cagey about revealing that key ingredient. They will
enthusiastically tell you what it isn't. It isn't Kerosene or fish oil.
Lately they also swear it is not Stoddard solvent, but that really is
splitting less than a hair. It is so close to Stoddard solvent in makeup
that it is functionally the same thing. Stoddard Solvent is a bit more
refined than kerosene, but for starting a balky diesel, it is close
enough to water-white kerosene to work for that purpose. I think it has
a lower flash point than Stoddard solvent, which is an asset for this
purpose. The term Stoddard Solvent covers a range of petroleum
distillates. If someone calls the main ingredient of WD-40 "Stoddard
Solvent", I don't think you can call them wrong, regardless of marketing
department claims to the contrary.

Bill Bina

On 5/17/2013 6:00 PM, Knowles Rich wrote:
> I've never even tried to burn WD40. Fish oil???
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax


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--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[ELevert]

My raw water cooled Yanmar 2qm15 would start with a normal flow of water. 
On restarting after a sail, no water flow. This repeated regularly until 
the thermostat was changed. 

Ed

C&C 30 Mk 1 Dream Girl (for sale)
C&C 34 Briar Patch 
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Rick Brass]

I use a Life Sling with 100 ft of floating line instead of a life ring, but
that said I see no purpose to deploying it with the MOB pole. The boat is
already away from the MOB and moving further away, available manpower is
better used for sail handling, and the float and line would just be another
potential complication when we stop the boat, strike sail, and start the
engine. I'd rather deploy it in an orderly manner as we move back to the
MOB. That way we can stream it behind the boat and circle the MOB to bring
the line and float into the person in the water.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Rick

 

What about the life ring with a long (50 feet) floating line attached.does
that go over automatically when you deploy the MOB pole?

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:29 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

I tell my crew that the person who yells "Man Overboard" then has only one
job - to point one hand at the person in the water and to NOT take their
eyes off the head of the person.

 

To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your
fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back and see if you can
find your fender.

 

Helmsman's first job when hearing "Man Overboard" is to get the MOB pole
into the water. In case the first person slips in doing their job.

 

Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up
the headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the MOB. I have a Life
Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under power to bring
the Life Sling to him, and then pull him in to the stern boarding ladder. If
I need to bring someone over the side, my main halyard is long enough to run
through a snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which
will allow me to use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the cabin top as
a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference would be
to use the leeward side, since the MOB would not need to swim after the boat
as it drifts down wind faster than a man in the water ever will.

 

 

Rck Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to
be interesting.

 

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

 



 



 

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery
fails.

 

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to
do?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13

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Re: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

As others have mentioned, I'd look for an air leak in every seal from
the pump upstream to the hull fitting -including the entire pump.
If the pump gets air bound and the impeller vanes are less than
absolutely factory perfect, it will have a hard time sucking water, and
will just move the air in the pump around.


My water pump was leaking, and I thought it was the cover seal like you
do...it wasn't, it was the shaft seals between the pulley and the
impeller.  They were about $10 each or so and not terribly hard to
replace.  It's a good idea to replace the bearings if you're going in
there to fix the seals.
If you cannot get new seals in a timely manner, just put as much
thick-tacky grease in the shaft seal as you can...just to slow down the
air-water intrusion/leak.


The other suggestion about the "cam" in the pump is also a good one.
It's held in with a single brass screw.  Mine corroded away to nothing.
So I replaced it with a stainless cap screw.  By the way...it's metric
and it cannot be too long or it will stick into the pump and tear the
vanes. "Choose wisely" as the saying goes.


And another thought, before you go all "acid bath" on the engine...maybe
start with a mild acid like vinegar. It's cheap in large volume, and
mild enough to the steel parts while working magic on salts.  Just a
thought and if it doesn't work, you are only out about $15.
I'd get the engine running and hot on seawater, shut it down, then take
the seawater intake and put it in the vinegar bottle. For a SW cooled
engine, I'd guess that 4 gallons would do.  Then run the engine for a
very short time to suck all 4 gallons into the engine.
Now the heat from the block will help the vinegar do it's thing. Leave
it for a day maybe. The run it normally.
Bewareall those bits that were adhering are going to try to exit the
engine...if there are large scales they could block the passages. (like
a blood clot or heart attack).

-Keith M
C&C 35-3  (3GM30F)


-Original Message-
From: Don Jonsson [mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca] 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 21:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Overheating 3GMD - the plot thickens

Hi

 

I had previously sent out a  message about an overheating diesel.  The
culprit, so I thought, was the knuckle going into the mixing elbow,
because generally when I cleaned it, it worked again.  For a while.

 

So I finally took of the mixing elbow and gave everything a proper
cleaning.  I checked the water pump.  I checked all hoses by blowing
through them and the engine.

 

I put it all back together and it all worked and water pumped like it is
supposed to, except the water pump leaked a bit - needed a new gasket,
but I knew that and just wanted to see if it would work.  Got a new
gasket and put it on.  Started up and no water.

 

I took out the thermostat and checked to see it worked - slightly
corroded but it worked, i.e. opened in hot water.  Put everything back
together and started it up and a bit of water but too much steam.  Took
the thermostat out and put it in more carefully.  Tried again, water
running, no steam everything is perfect.  Ran it for a while just to be
sure.

 

Turned it off.  Waited a while (an hour) and started it up again.  No
water.

 

So the problem is not the mixing elbow (and likely never was as it
wasn't that bad).  Not the pump as it looks fine.  Not the thermostat -
I don't think although I will replace it.  

 

The problem is sometimes the engine pumps water and sometimes not.   And
I'm stumped. 

 

This is a raw water cooled engine which makes things different.  Has
anyone had a similar problem and ideas for a solution.

 

Also, it seems hard to get part numbers for a 3GMD and the local
mechanic had to go find an old book.  Is there any place online to find
part numbers for that engine?

 

Thanks to anyone that can help.

Don

 


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

[Bill Coleman]

Ditto. 

Had a broken spring in the injector of my Kubota, engine ran up to 3 grand,
even shutting the ignition wouldn't stop it. (This also de-activates the
fuel supply solenoid, no manual shutoff)  Thank god the governor worked. I
ended up ripping off the fuel hose as I apparently couldn't think quickly
enough to plug the intake.  Then my buddy, who teaches solid model printing
, 'Printed' me a little plastic paddle, complete with instructions to place
over intake of engine to shut off engine.  So, now it hangs in my engine
compartment next to the intake!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
bria...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

 

 

 

 

The trouble with various sprays is that they may or may not work, or may
damage the engine. My suggestion is to cut off the air flow at the intake.
When my engine Yanmar  4JH "ran away" (injection pump problem) I used a
nearby small plastic container to block the air intake. Engine slowed
immediately and stopped.

 

Bill

MYSTY 

Landfall 39. 

 

In a message dated 5/17/2013 11:19:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
paradigmat...@gmail.com writes:

Urethane spray foam will do the job no problem. 

 

On 17 May 2013 20:07, Steve Thomas  wrote:

Freon probably would have worked, and was available everywhere.  

Can't think of anything that is readily available now that wouldn't also
hurt your engine. 

 

Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII

 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 10:10 PM
To: billb...@sbcglobal.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

A long time ago, someone suggested keeping a spray can of something to stop
a diesel.  What was that?

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


From: "Bill Bina" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 6:08:27 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a diesel

WD40 is very cagey about revealing that key ingredient. They will 
enthusiastically tell you what it isn't. It isn't Kerosene or fish oil.  
Lately they also swear it is not Stoddard solvent, but that really is 
splitting less than a hair. It is so close to Stoddard solvent in makeup 
that it is functionally the same thing. Stoddard Solvent is a bit more 
refined than kerosene, but for starting a balky diesel, it is close 
enough to water-white kerosene to work for that purpose. I think it has 
a lower flash point than Stoddard solvent, which is an asset for this 
purpose. The term Stoddard Solvent covers a range of petroleum 
distillates. If someone calls the main ingredient of WD-40 "Stoddard 
Solvent", I don't think you can call them wrong, regardless of marketing 
department claims to the contrary.

Bill Bina

On 5/17/2013 6:00 PM, Knowles Rich wrote:
> I've never even tried to burn WD40. Fish oil???
>
> Rich Knowles
> Indigo. LF38
> Halifax


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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

[Morgenstern, Keith E CIV SEA 08 NR]

Yeah...already did that. I took every cover off of everything on the stbd side. 
(4 in all)

Nothing.

It was maddening.

My leak is coming from the little dip in the headliner an inch aft of the 
electrical panel.  If you reach up in there, you find that they used this as a 
channel to run the wiring toward the aft end of the boatin mine they must 
have run the wires in the headliner before putting it on the boat..then put a 
thin layer of glass over the channel to keep it all in place. The water emerges 
from this channel as a very slow drip.

-Keith


-Original Message-
From: Alan Bergen [mailto:alan-at-h...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 12:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-3 Leak

Remove the inspection panel above the nav station, and lay a paper towel under 
any wiring in the area as far forward of the inspection panel as you can reach. 
 The leak can be anywhere forward of where it appears, before it works its way 
to where you think it might be.  The leak could be from the companionway slide, 
or it could be dripping down any of the mast wiring that comes back toward the 
nav station.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


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Stus-List Fwd: Stopping a diesel

[Briard6]

 
  

 From: bria...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: 5/17/2013 11:24:30  P.M. Eastern Daylight Time
Subj: Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel


The trouble with various sprays is that they may or  may not work, or may 
damage the engine. My suggestion is to cut off the air  flow at the intake. 
When my engine Yanmar   4JH "ran away" (injection pump problem) I used a 
nearby small plastic  container to block the air intake. Engine slowed 
immediately and  stopped.
 
Bill
MYSTY 
Landfall 39. 
 
 
In a message dated 5/17/2013 11:19:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
paradigmat...@gmail.com writes:

Urethane spray foam will do the job no problem. 



On 17 May 2013 20:07, Steve Thomas <_sthoma20@sympatico.ca_ 
(mailto:sthom...@sympatico.ca) > wrote:


Freon probably would have  worked, and was available everywhere.  
Can't think of anything that is  readily available now that wouldn't also 
hurt your engine.  

Steve Thomas
C&C27  MKIII
 
 

-Original  Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:_cnc-list-bounces@cnc-list.com_ 
(mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com) ]On Behalf Of Chuck  S
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 10:10 PM
To: _billbina@sbcglobal.net_ (mailto:billb...@sbcglobal.net) ; 
_cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
Subject: Stus-List  Stopping a diesel


A long time ago, someone  suggested keeping a spray can of something to 
stop a diesel.  What  was that?

Chuck
Resolute
1990  C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

 

From: "Bill Bina" <_billbina@sbcglobal.net_ (mailto:billb...@sbcglobal.net) 
>
To: _cnc-list@cnc-list.com_ (mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com) 
Sent: Friday, May 17,  2013 6:08:27 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting a  diesel

WD40 is very cagey about revealing that key ingredient. They  will 
enthusiastically tell you what it isn't. It isn't Kerosene or  fish oil.  
Lately they also swear it is not Stoddard solvent, but  that really is 
splitting less than a hair. It is so close to Stoddard  solvent in makeup 
that it is functionally the same thing. Stoddard  Solvent is a bit more 
refined than kerosene, but for starting a balky  diesel, it is close 
enough to water-white kerosene to work for that  purpose. I think it has 
a lower flash point than Stoddard solvent,  which is an asset for this 
purpose. The term Stoddard Solvent covers a  range of petroleum 
distillates. If someone calls the main ingredient  of WD-40 "Stoddard 
Solvent", I don't think you can call them wrong,  regardless of marketing 
department claims to the contrary.

Bill  Bina

On 5/17/2013 6:00 PM, Knowles Rich wrote:
> I've never  even tried to burn WD40. Fish oil???
>
> Rich Knowles
>  Indigo. LF38
>  Halifax


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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk  III
Victoria,  BC



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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[dwight veinot]

Rick

 

What about the life ring with a long (50 feet) floating line attached.does
that go over automatically when you deploy the MOB pole?

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:29 AM
To: 'Dennis C.'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

I tell my crew that the person who yells "Man Overboard" then has only one
job - to point one hand at the person in the water and to NOT take their
eyes off the head of the person.

 

To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your
fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back and see if you can
find your fender.

 

Helmsman's first job when hearing "Man Overboard" is to get the MOB pole
into the water. In case the first person slips in doing their job.

 

Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up
the headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the MOB. I have a Life
Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under power to bring
the Life Sling to him, and then pull him in to the stern boarding ladder. If
I need to bring someone over the side, my main halyard is long enough to run
through a snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which
will allow me to use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the cabin top as
a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference would be
to use the leeward side, since the MOB would not need to swim after the boat
as it drifts down wind faster than a man in the water ever will.

 

 

Rck Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to
be interesting.

 

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

 



 



 

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery
fails.

 

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to
do?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13

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Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[Jeffrey Nelson]

It is, but I think people are discussing the unusual case where the diesel is 
consuming it's own 
oil or the fuel supply can not be shut off for some other reason.


On 05/24/13, dwight veinot   wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
>  
> 
> 
>  
>  
> I thought the usual way to stop the
> engine was to shut off the fuel supply, not the air.
>  
>  
>   
> Dwight Veinot
>  
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>  
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>  
>  
>  
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
> Behalf Of Rick Brass
> 
> Sent: May 24, 2013 9:08 AM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a
> diesel
>  
>  
>  
>  
> I
> suppose the engine would stop, but it might be from the blood and tissue torn
> off your hand by the vacuum if the air intake. Seriously, it is a LOT of 
> vacuum.
>  
>  
>  
> Another
> ill-advised method of stopping a diesel is to put a rag over/into the air
> intake. The diesel stops, but then you need to rebuild the cylinder head to 
> get
> the fabric parts out of the intake valves.
>  
>  
>  
> Assuming
> the engine won’t shut off because the rings are badly worn and it is
> running on fumes sucked into the cylinder from the oil pan, the best
> alternative is to use a flat metal plate or something like a saucer from the
> galley to put over the air intake horn. I’m not sure what I would do with
> my Universal, which has a circular “can” full of “Brillo
> pad”-like metal screen for an intake filter.
>  
>  
>  
> If
> the engine does not stop or is a runaway because of a problem in the fuel
> injection pump, the best thing to do is shut off the fuel using the shut off
> valve between the tank and your primary fuel filter. Or you could take a 
> wrench
> and loosen the nut at the connection from the injection lines to the fuel
> injectors. If you have a leak there, the injectors stop working and the engine
> stops. I’d be reluctant to try that with engine running, belts whirling,
> pulleys spinning, and everything vibrating – but sometimes you do what
> you need to.
>  
>  
>  
> Rick
> Brass
>  
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>   
> From: CnC-List
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
> Behalf Of Josh Muckley
> 
> Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:34
> PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a
> diesel
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Are we assuming a run away diesel? Why not just
> put your hand over the intake pipe? I assume that is where you are
> spraying "stuff".
>  Josh Muckley
> 
> S/V Sea Hawk
>   
>  
>  
>
>  No virus found in this message.
> 
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com(http://www.avg.com)
> 
> Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
--
Cheers,
 Jeff Nelson
 Muir Caileag
 C&C 30
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 84

[Rick Brass]

Tom,

His engine is raw water cooled, so there is no heat exchanger.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom B
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 11:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 88, Issue 84

Don

My guess ( just because noone mentioned it yet) would be a clogged heat
exchanger.  It was a problem for me on my 35 MK 1, but that was an A4.  Not
too sure it would apply to your diesel.

Tom Buscaglia
Alera
C&C 37/40
Vashon WA



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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Rick Brass]

I tell my crew that the person who yells "Man Overboard" then has only one
job - to point one hand at the person in the water and to NOT take their
eyes off the head of the person.

 

To see why, go out one day when it is blowing 10knots, throw one of your
fenders over, go another 100 yards or so, then look back and see if you can
find your fender.

 

Helmsman's first job when hearing "Man Overboard" is to get the MOB pole
into the water. In case the first person slips in doing their job.

 

Then our process id to go into irons to strike the main halyard and roll up
the headsail, start the engine, and turn back to the MOB. I have a Life
Sling on the stern pulpit, so we will circle the MOB under power to bring
the Life Sling to him, and then pull him in to the stern boarding ladder. If
I need to bring someone over the side, my main halyard is long enough to run
through a snatch block at the end of the boom and reach the water, which
will allow me to use the boom and Barient 27 self-tailer on the cabin top as
a crane to lift the MOB and swing him aboard. My first preference would be
to use the leeward side, since the MOB would not need to swim after the boat
as it drifts down wind faster than a man in the water ever will.

 

 

Rck Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 1:36 AM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

 

Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to
be interesting.

 

Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the
advantages of each.

 



 



 

Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the
leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of
the MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery
fails.

 

Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to
do?

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[dwight veinot]

I thought the usual way to stop the engine was to shut off the fuel supply,
not the air.

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: May 24, 2013 9:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

 

I suppose the engine would stop, but it might be from the blood and tissue
torn off your hand by the vacuum if the air intake. Seriously, it is a LOT
of vacuum.

 

Another ill-advised method of stopping a diesel is to put a rag over/into
the air intake. The diesel stops, but then you need to rebuild the cylinder
head to get the fabric parts out of the intake valves.

 

Assuming the engine won't shut off because the rings are badly worn and it
is running on fumes sucked into the cylinder from the oil pan, the best
alternative is to use a flat metal plate or something like a saucer from the
galley to put over the air intake horn. I'm not sure what I would do with my
Universal, which has a circular "can" full of "Brillo pad"-like metal screen
for an intake filter.

 

If the engine does not stop or is a runaway because of a problem in the fuel
injection pump, the best thing to do is shut off the fuel using the shut off
valve between the tank and your primary fuel filter. Or you could take a
wrench and loosen the nut at the connection from the injection lines to the
fuel injectors. If you have a leak there, the injectors stop working and the
engine stops. I'd be reluctant to try that with engine running, belts
whirling, pulleys spinning, and everything vibrating - but sometimes you do
what you need to.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

 

Are we assuming a run away diesel?  Why not just put your hand over the
intake pipe?  I assume that is where you are spraying "stuff".

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3184/5853 - Release Date: 05/24/13

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Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

[Rick Brass]

I suppose the engine would stop, but it might be from the blood and tissue
torn off your hand by the vacuum if the air intake. Seriously, it is a LOT
of vacuum.

 

Another ill-advised method of stopping a diesel is to put a rag over/into
the air intake. The diesel stops, but then you need to rebuild the cylinder
head to get the fabric parts out of the intake valves.

 

Assuming the engine won't shut off because the rings are badly worn and it
is running on fumes sucked into the cylinder from the oil pan, the best
alternative is to use a flat metal plate or something like a saucer from the
galley to put over the air intake horn. I'm not sure what I would do with my
Universal, which has a circular "can" full of "Brillo pad"-like metal screen
for an intake filter.

 

If the engine does not stop or is a runaway because of a problem in the fuel
injection pump, the best thing to do is shut off the fuel using the shut off
valve between the tank and your primary fuel filter. Or you could take a
wrench and loosen the nut at the connection from the injection lines to the
fuel injectors. If you have a leak there, the injectors stop working and the
engine stops. I'd be reluctant to try that with engine running, belts
whirling, pulleys spinning, and everything vibrating - but sometimes you do
what you need to.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping a diesel

 

Are we assuming a run away diesel?  Why not just put your hand over the
intake pipe?  I assume that is where you are spraying "stuff".

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk

 

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Re: Stus-List Edson steering issue

[Mike Brannon]

Josh,  just keep an eye on it,  I was close to losing my mast and I've seen 
pictures where a couple of the older 36's had the knees pull up through the 
deck.   I did the repairs myself,  the boat sails so much better now but I am 
very quick to reduce sail and keep the boat flat 15-20 deg of heel and weather 
helm is virtually non existent. 

Mike
Sent from my iPad

On May 23, 2013, at 22:27, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Yikes!  Never heard of that.  Now you got me scared!
> 
> 
> -- 
> When security matters.
> http://www.secure-my-email.com
> 
> On May 23, 2013 6:49 PM, "Mike Brannon"  wrote:
>> Josh,  this link will https://www.dropbox.com/sc/ktgqzwodk1i0z3u/CxUksbEoW3 
>> take you to pictures that show the damage I had in my boat.  I apologize for 
>> the quality.   Somewhere I have additional pictures showing the completed 
>> repair.   In short the knees are what the chainplates attach to.   Mine 
>> began pulling loose from the boat.   I removed a portion of the liner and 
>> replaced the plywood knees.   If  I can find the other pictures showing the  
>> finished repair I will add them to the folder.   
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On May 22, 2013, at 11:31, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> 
>>> Mike,
>>> 
>>> Could you please explain what "tabbing on their knees" is and what is means 
>>> to fail?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> When security matters.
>>> http://www.secure-my-email.com
>>> 
>>> On May 20, 2013 7:13 PM, "Mike Brannon"  wrote:
 Bill,  I've got a 78 C&C 36 Center Board version.  I find that the boat is 
 very tender and once the wind pipes up I start reducing sail much earlier 
 than most of the other boats in the fleet.   Keeping the boat flat < 20 
 deg of heel and I can still keep up with most of them going to wind with 
 minimal weather helm.   Also, when I replaced the standing rigging a 
 couple of years ago we left the mast where it was.
 
 I'm also aware of several C&C 36s of that vintage which have had the 
 tabbing on their knees fail, mine included.   Once I fixed that problem I 
 found I could carry much more sail.
 
 As an example on Sat I sailed for most of the day in 20+ wind with a 115 
 (blade is being repaired) of unknown age and a single reef in the main and 
 made a decent show considering the aged sail.   I had minimal weather helm 
 and great boat control.
 
 Mike,
 
 Virginia Lee
 C&C 36 CB
 VIRGINIA BEACH
 
 
 Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List MOB recovery procedures

[Indigo]

Being British, I thought I would check what the RYA says   Some very different 
methods! They side though with the Americans and recommend recovery from the 
leeward side

Man overboard | Boat Handling - Sail | Cruising | RYA
www.rya.org.uk/.../asktheexpertsmanove...
Nov 27, 2009 – Man Overboard - RYA Yachtmaster man overboard drill... Man 
Overboard Recovery ...

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

On May 24, 2013, at 1:35, "Dennis C."  wrote:

> Racing season is ramping up.  Time to discuss MOB procedures.  This ought to 
> be interesting.
> 
> Here's a couple of reference sites.  Note the different procedures and the 
> advantages of each.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note the disagreement on whether to recover the MOB on the windward or the 
> leeward side.  Also note that one site recommends immediate deployment of the 
> MOB marker and one site says to deploy it if first attempt at recovery fails.
> 
> Which methods do you favor?  Are you prepared?  Does your crew know what to 
> do?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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