Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Overhead Panels - Teak and alternatives

[Rick Brass]

Based on my experience with cabinetmaking and wood working, and with a lot
of boat projects over the years, here are some comments and suggestions
about obtaining teak and alternative hardwoods for your boat.

 

You probably do not want to try to source “Door Skins” for a project on your
boat. The Luan door skins are made from soft wood, which may make them more
flexible than hardwood panels, but do not use waterproof glue in the
lamination. Fasteners will not hold as well in the soft wood, and the
plywood will delaminate relatively quickly (OK, in a few years) in the humid
environment of a boat.

 

Agree with Ken that you should avoid most ¼” plywood sold for underlayment
in a home floor. It is really made to have carpet installed over it.  

 

However, in your local big box store or lumber yard you can source a premium
underlayment intended to provide a finished surface under linoleum or
ceramic tile. It is sanded very smooth and uses waterproof glue. The
surfaces look like birch, but are some African or South American hardwood
other than birch. I have a friend whose business is wooden boat restoration
and boat interior remodeling. He often uses this material for the side
panels on cabinets.

 

He is making cabinets and shelving to fit into the port pilot berth outboard
of the settee on Imzadi. (I sometimes feel like I am building a LF38 from
the hull inward.) The cabinets and shelves will be made form ½” plywood made
from an African hardwood called ACUNA. It looks and performs like teak, but
is substantially less expensive. A 4x8 sheet of ¼” teak plywood runs over
$100. A sheet of acuna is about $30. Similarly, the solid parts of tha
cabinet frames and the door frames will be made from another hardwood called
JATUBA (also pronounced as jatoba). Again, it looks and performs like teak,
but is less than half the cost per board foot.

 

Your local big box home improvement store can also provide hardwood plywood,
though probably not teak, and has the advantage of having it already cut
into partial sheets. My local Lowes provides ¼, ½, and ¾ thick in 2x2, 2x4,
and 4x4 sheets in red oak, white oak, mahogany, birch, and cherry. They also
have solid wood pieces in various sizes up to 1x8 and in various lengths for
use in cabinet making.

 

One of the best sources I know of for marine hardwoods is in Beaufort, NC
and is named Atlantic Veneer. Their primary business is making plywood for
boat construction and restoration, but they also supply rough cut planks and
various sizes of lumber. (I was there over the weekend to buy a 4/4”x6”x11ft
cypress board for restoration of a Dyer Dhow for the local Power Squadron
chapter.) I’m sure they would cut a sheet of ¼ acuna ply into 2x4 panels and
package and ship it by UPS for ½ to 2/3 the cost of a sheet of teak ply –
including the shipping cost.

 

My friend Bob, the boat restorer, tells me there are a number of places in
the New Jersey area where you can source specialty hardwoods used for boat
building. I’d guess there would also be sources in Canada near areas that
have a tradition of boat building.

 

And if all else fails, ask a friend who does woodworking or look in the
phone book for a local cabinet maker (not someone who orders and installs
custom cabinets made in a factory). I’m sure they can tell you who is a good
local source for specialty hardwoods.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Heaton
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 6:02 AM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Overhead Panels

 

Try looking for "Door Skins" but beware of the really cheap stuff Home Depot
and others sell for floor underlayment, it is useless for this sort of
thing.  Look in the door section rather than the lumber section of a big box
store.  It is the sort of veneer plywood used for interior hollow core doors
so is intended to look good and take a good finish.

 

Ken H.

 

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Re: Stus-List Questions I've been dying to ask Rob Ball - Mega

[Hoyt, Mike]

Edd
 
I would love to comment on this one.
 
Over the past year I look at the interior of my 27.  No not C&C but J.
Is 27.5 LOA, 8.5 beam, 3800 disp and has a functional interior with long
comfortable bunks but ridiculously cramped head and sitting not even
stooping headroom.  I go from there to think that a 30 foot modern sport
boat even a Farr 30 should with its extra LOA and beam have enough room
to have a much more usable interior than our 27 - with long comfortable
bunks, stooping headroom, galley of sorts and decent head area.  The
boats are racing OD or PHRF against their own measured performance so
why not?  Such a 30 footer would have all the amenities of our 27 and
then some.
 
However Nope .. is not currently done much.  To get such a beast you
almost have to go back 25 - 30 years when dual purpose boats were more
the norm.
 
Back to the Mega.  Lets match up the design concept against my supposed
wish list.  I will state my wish list first
 
Wish list:
 
Fast.  At 30 feet should be below PHRF 120 - preferably well below 100
these days
Light.  Max 5000 lbs
Trailerable - this means ramp launchable - retracting keel - not folding
centerboard keel but a modern lifting foil
Usable interior.  When not racing would like to be able to weekend or
longer on the boat as well
Inboard would be ideal - saildrive preferably
 
... and of course these days sprit not pole so easier to sail with less
crew
 
Match that up against the Mega.  Then go back and compare to designs of
that day.  It seems to me the Mega was designed basically for what I was
asking ... the near impossible,
 
I would challenge you to trailer Enterprise.  Even the tractor beams and
transporters are not yet up to snuff for that at this time.  
Try a C&C 30 or even a 27.  You are down to a 25 or a 24 before you get
a boat that is in fact trailerable (not ramp launchable)
 
So the Mega?  Tried to be a whole lot of boat for a whole lot of
different requirements and wishes.  In a lot of ways I think it did
succeed, in others not as well.  It was however reasonably fast and I
think had a retracting bulb keel.  Probably was too far ahead of its
time because a lot of people want that now and no one is really making
one - Andrews 28 was the closest and the rest have minimalist interiors.
 
Mega = great idea
 
BTW - Koobalibra the C&C 115 we sail on just sailed to Cape Breton.
When it finishes race the cape it will next race Baddeck Race Week,
Then it will sail the 200+ NM from Baddec to Chester for Chester RAce
Week the following week.  A lot of deliveries.  By contrast our 27 will
sail in Baddeck Race week, kick around the lakes a bit and then trailer
back to Halifax - I think this is the idea that the Mega was designed
for - that and travelling to OD regattas
 
anyway ...
 
Mike



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 8:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Questions I've been dying to ask Rob Ball


How about this one. 

The Mega: What were you thinking? 



All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Jul 12, 2013, at 9:57 PM, Chuck S  wrote:


Hi Rob,
I plan to make your rendezvous, should be a blast.
Thought we C&C owners might prepare a list of questions for Rob to
consider?  Here's a start:

1)  What other sailboat designers influenced or impressed him?  Heard he
was friends with Bob Perry.  But wonder if he followed Olin Stevens,
Bill Luders, Bill Tripp or Doug Peterson, or German Frers, Chuck Paine,
Rob Johnstone, Steve Killing, etc.
2)  Did other boat builders influence C&C;  Saber, Swan, Beneteau,
Jenneau, Catalina, Hunter?
3)  Has he designed any other sailboats since leaving C&C?
4)  Heard he once built his own C&C 34.  What did he name her.  Where is
she now?  Did he make any modifications?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ



From: "Robert Gallagher" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 6:24:16 PM
Subject: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time


I do agree that the 30 MKII may not be the exact same pedigree as the
34+ and 37+, mainly the rudder and keel designs .  If you look at the
layouts, drop down/walk through transom steps, aft head, aft cabins,
saloon table design, overall layout, fit and finish, you can see a some
similarities that you won't find in most other C&C models. 

Of course the 30 MKII is smaller so you don't get the separate shower
stall or walk around queen berth in the aft cabin.  Still from many
angles it does seem like a mini-34+.

Now this is just my humble opinion.  However, it is one questions I will
be asking ROB BALL IN PERSON September at the   2013 C&C RENDEZVOUS ON GORGEOUS BL

Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Stevan Plavsa]

Hi All.

It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs used
this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other ultrafurl
owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm blaming the drum.
It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, then come to a stop,
turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The energy required to turn it is
quite high, I have to go forward and manually turn the drum to furl or
unfurl the sail. How can I troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will
require some forestay action but I'm hoping not.
According to their site it can be installed without dropping the forestay
so I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500. I'm waiting
on an email back from ultrafurl.

Any ideas?
Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Bill Bina]

It could be as simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try 
and furl with your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.


Bill Bina


On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:

Hi All.

It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs 
used this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other 
ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm 
blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, 
then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The 
energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward and 
manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I 
troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some forestay 
action but I'm hoping not.
According to their site it can be installed without dropping the 
forestay so I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500. 
I'm waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.


Any ideas?
Thanks,

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto





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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Richard N. Bush]

Steven that sounds like a halyard may be catching the furler at the top of the 
mast, and getting wrapped up in the sail...;


Richard
1987 33-II; Ohio River, Mile 584

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor 
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, Jul 15, 2013 9:08 am
Subject: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking


Hi All.


It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs used this 
furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other ultrafurl owners. I 
dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm blaming the drum. It needs a lot 
of coaxing to turn and it will turn, then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn 
then stop .. etc. The energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go 
forward and manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I 
troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some forestay action but 
I'm hoping not. 
According to their site it can be installed without dropping the forestay so 
I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500. I'm waiting on an 
email back from ultrafurl.


Any ideas?
Thanks,


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto






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Re: Stus-List Questions I've been dying to ask Rob Ball - Mega

[Della Barba, Joe]

OTOH I have no interest at all in being able to get my boat on a trailer. I 
don't own a vehicle that could possibly tow it and have no plans to ever get 
one. AFAIK my boat has never ever moved anyplace on a trailer in 40 years.
I think the overlap between people who want a trailerable sport boat and people 
who want to go cruising is very small as well.  C&C did build the SR series 
that interior space aside were trailerable sport boats AFAIK. One trend you can 
see in racing is it has been getting closer to auto racing over the years, i.e. 
the boats are more specialized as race boats and other uses of them are far 
down the list. Cruisers are buying a Catalina with a nice comfortable cockpit 
with a table and a place for a grill and are totally divorced from modern 
racing, even if they do a have fun doing their own owner's group racing.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Questions I've been dying to ask Rob Ball - Mega

Edd

I would love to comment on this one.

Over the past year I look at the interior of my 27.  No not C&C but J.  Is 27.5 
LOA, 8.5 beam, 3800 disp and has a functional interior with long comfortable 
bunks but ridiculously cramped head and sitting not even stooping headroom.  I 
go from there to think that a 30 foot modern sport boat even a Farr 30 should 
with its extra LOA and beam have enough room to have a much more usable 
interior than our 27 - with long comfortable bunks, stooping headroom, galley 
of sorts and decent head area.  The boats are racing OD or PHRF against their 
own measured performance so why not?  Such a 30 footer would have all the 
amenities of our 27 and then some.

However Nope .. is not currently done much.  To get such a beast you almost 
have to go back 25 - 30 years when dual purpose boats were more the norm.

Back to the Mega.  Lets match up the design concept against my supposed wish 
list.  I will state my wish list first

Wish list:

Fast.  At 30 feet should be below PHRF 120 - preferably well below 100 these 
days
Light.  Max 5000 lbs
Trailerable - this means ramp launchable - retracting keel - not folding 
centerboard keel but a modern lifting foil
Usable interior.  When not racing would like to be able to weekend or longer on 
the boat as well
Inboard would be ideal - saildrive preferably

... and of course these days sprit not pole so easier to sail with less crew

Match that up against the Mega.  Then go back and compare to designs of that 
day.  It seems to me the Mega was designed basically for what I was asking ... 
the near impossible,

I would challenge you to trailer Enterprise.  Even the tractor beams and 
transporters are not yet up to snuff for that at this time.
Try a C&C 30 or even a 27.  You are down to a 25 or a 24 before you get a boat 
that is in fact trailerable (not ramp launchable)

So the Mega?  Tried to be a whole lot of boat for a whole lot of different 
requirements and wishes.  In a lot of ways I think it did succeed, in others 
not as well.  It was however reasonably fast and I think had a retracting bulb 
keel.  Probably was too far ahead of its time because a lot of people want that 
now and no one is really making one - Andrews 28 was the closest and the rest 
have minimalist interiors.

Mega = great idea

BTW - Koobalibra the C&C 115 we sail on just sailed to Cape Breton.  When it 
finishes race the cape it will next race Baddeck Race Week,  Then it will sail 
the 200+ NM from Baddec to Chester for Chester RAce Week the following week.  A 
lot of deliveries.  By contrast our 27 will sail in Baddeck Race week, kick 
around the lakes a bit and then trailer back to Halifax - I think this is the 
idea that the Mega was designed for - that and travelling to OD regattas

anyway ...

Mike


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 8:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Questions I've been dying to ask Rob Ball
How about this one.

The Mega: What were you thinking?

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Jul 12, 2013, at 9:57 PM, Chuck S 
mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>> wrote:
Hi Rob,
I plan to make your rendezvous, should be a blast.
Thought we C&C owners might prepare a list of questions for Rob to consider?  
Here's a start:

1)  What other sailboat designers influenced or impressed him?  Heard he was 
friends with Bob Perry.  But wonder if he followed Olin Stevens, Bill Luders, 
Bill Tripp or Doug Peterson, or German Frers, Chuck Paine

Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[HONEYSAIL]

Halyard wrapping is the most likely culprit
 
 
In a message dated 7/15/2013 9:22:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
bushma...@aol.com writes:

Steven that sounds like a halyard may be  catching the furler at the top of 
the mast, and getting wrapped up in the  sail...;

 
Richard
1987 33-II; Ohio River, Mile 584

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor  
Louisville, Kentucky 40202 
502-584-7255



-Original  Message-
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To:  cnc-list 
Sent: Mon, Jul 15, 2013 9:08  am
Subject: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking


Hi All.  


It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs  used 
this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other ultrafurl  
owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm blaming the drum. It  
needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, then come to a stop, turn, 
 then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The energy required to turn it is quite  
high, I have to go forward and manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the 
 sail. How can I troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some 
 forestay action but I'm hoping not. 
According to their site it can be installed without dropping  the forestay 
so I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500. I'm  waiting 
on an email back from ultrafurl.


Any ideas?
Thanks,


Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto







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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Prime Interest]

We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
fight the curve.



Ed

Prime Interest
1982 C&C 38 Landfall
Toronto, Canada

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

It could be as simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try and
furl with your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.

Bill Bina


On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
> Hi All.
>
> It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs 
> used this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other 
> ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm 
> blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, 
> then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The 
> energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward and 
> manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I 
> troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some forestay 
> action but I'm hoping not.
> According to their site it can be installed without dropping the 
> forestay so I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500.
> I'm waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.
>
> Any ideas?
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>


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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Dennis C.]

Coincidence.  I'm dropping  an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin of an 
Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV

Dennis C 


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Prime Interest"  wrote:

> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
> fight the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> Ed
> 
> Prime Interest
> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
> Toronto, Canada
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
> Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:20 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> 
> It could be as simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try and
> furl with your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
>> Hi All.
>> 
>> It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs 
>> used this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other 
>> ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm 
>> blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, 
>> then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The 
>> energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward and 
>> manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I 
>> troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some forestay 
>> action but I'm hoping not.
>> According to their site it can be installed without dropping the 
>> forestay so I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500.
>> I'm waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.
>> 
>> Any ideas?
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[HONEYSAIL]

Swt.
 
 
In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
capt...@yahoo.com writes:

Coincidence.  I'm dropping  an old Hood Seafoil 2536  today. Close cousin 
of an Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk  IV

Dennis C 


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at  9:24 AM, "Prime Interest"  
wrote:

>  We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
>  causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as  
you
> fight the curve.
> 
> 
> 
> Ed
>  
> Prime Interest
> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
> Toronto,  Canada
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
Bina
> Sent:  Monday, July 15, 2013 9:20 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> 
> It could be as  simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try and
> furl with  your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.
> 
>  Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>> Hi All.
>> 
>> It seems the drum on my  ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs 
>> used this  furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other 
>>  ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm 
>>  blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn,  
>> then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The  
>> energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward  and 
>> manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I  
>> troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some  forestay 
>> action but I'm hoping not.
>> According to  their site it can be installed without dropping the 
>> forestay so  I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500.
>> I'm  waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.
>> 
>> Any  ideas?
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Steve
>> Suhana,  C&C 32
>> Toronto
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Martin DeYoung]

> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
> fight the curve.

With Calypso's Harken system both halyard and backstay tension have to be 
"tight" to avoid excessive resistance or halyard wrap.  Once in a while the 
furling line will bind up in the drum, especially when handling the #1 
headsails (150%).

Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
honeys...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

Swt.

In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
capt...@yahoo.com writes:
Coincidence.  I'm dropping  an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin of an 
Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV

Dennis C

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Prime Interest" 
mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>> wrote:

> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
> fight the curve.
>
> Ed
>
> Prime Interest
> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
> Toronto, Canada
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Bill Bina]

Some troubleshooting tips from a Harken manual that may apply to others

Sail will not furl or is difficult to furl.
Jib halyard is wrapping around headstay because
angle between mast and and halyard is too shallow
See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard angle. It may be 
necessary

to mount a halyard restrainer on front of your mast to hold halyard to rear.

Jib halyard is wrapping around the headstay
because halyard swivel is too low.
See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard swivel height. A 
wire pendant

may be needed at head of sail to raise halyard swivel to proper height.

Jib halyard is too tight.
Ease jib halyard.

Foils riding on turnbuckle.
Raise foils. See adjusting turnbuckle on Page 24.

Foils too high, binding on swage eye.
Lower foils until clear. See adjusting turnbuckle on Page 24.

Spare halyard is wrapping in sail as it furls.
Secure spare halyards away from furling headstay by flipping them behind 
spreaders


Salt or dirt in bearings.
Flush bearings with freshwater and lubricate with dry spray lubricant 
such as McLube

®

Furling line tangled in drum.
Overrides are best prevented by using a 7402 ratchet block as the last 
furling line lead to maintain proper drag on line while unfurling.


Stop knot catching.
Make sure knot is a single overhand and is pushed up inside drum.

Sail full of wind.
Luff completely before furling or reefing.

Sail flogging too much.
Release a short length of sheet, pull some furling line and repeat.

Jib sheets are not free.
Free jib sheets.

Foil out of drum assembly.
Reinstall foil in drum assembly and tighten clamp screws.

No wraps of furling line on drum.
Remove sheets. Rotate stay wrapping as much furling line on drum as 
possible.


Lineguard assembly has slipped down.
Tighten line guard assembly screws securely.

Line through 7402 ratchet backwards.
Rerun line.

Halyard swivel installed upside down.
Remount swivel correctly.

Sail will not unfurl or will not unfurl completely.
Jib halyard is wrapping around headstay because
angle between mast and halyard is too shallow.
See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard angle. It may be 
necessary to

mount a halyard restrainer on front of your mast to hold halyard to rear.

Jib halyard is wrapping around the headstay
because the halyard swivel is too low.
See installation instructions


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Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak

[Curtis]

What grease should be used??



On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 11:10 PM, Jim Reinardy wrote:

> Blair,
>
> There is an access panel in the ceiling of the very back of the aft berth.
>  Take those screws out and remove the panel.  Mine also has an drain pan
> above that.  Once that is gone, you have a pretty good view of the cable
> and the rudder post and you should be able to figure out what might be
> going on.
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C&C 30-2 Firewater
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 14, 2013, at 4:59 PM, "Blair Clark" 
> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a1988  C&C 30 MK II with edson pedestal and steering out of DYC in
> dartmouth NS.
>
> The steering of Incognito has developed a major sqeak when turning the
> wheel and it is stiff to turn. This Problem was first noticed when the
> wheel seemed stiffer than usual after launch. Then it seemed to be
> intermittent  but today with heat is very stiff and loud..
>
> First I thought it may be clutch on Raymarine wheel pilot but now I
> believe that I have narrowed it to either in the D 25 edson drive wheel or
> where the rudder post shaft enters the emergency tiller collar.
>
> I thought about taking the screws holding the outer collar of the
> emergency tille on the floor of the cockpit before the walk through transor
> to see if I could lubricate but chickened out as I really do not know what
> taking those screws out would lead to in the water.
>
> I have oiled the wire cable coming from base of pedestal to sheaves and
> then aft to drive wheel and the wheel runs quiter but the squeak is still
> severe.
>
> Please can someoen give me direction as to what to lubricate and how and
> whether this can be all done safely in the water.
>
> Thanks
>
> Blair Clark 902-423-4651
>
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>
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-- 
“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change;
the realist adjusts the sails.”
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Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

[Allan Rheaume]

Jim, I've had a 30-2 for 14 years now, what I do know about them: first 4 built 
were 1987 models, they had plexiglass sliding doors for the galley storage and 
the panel behind the companionway steps was hinged opening to the aft cabin. 
The bulk of the boats were 1988 models. Some 1989 models had 3 cylinder 
Universal diesels. Three of the 30-2's were XL models with triple spreader rigs 
and running backstays. The XL's also had honeycombed bulkheads kevlar in the 
hulls and stainless cabin top rails. The last 30-2 was a 1995 XL version, it 
was owned by Greg Cutter who used to be on this list, his hull was # 175.

Allan Rheaume
Drumroll, 30-2 #90
Eastern Lake Ontario





 From: Jim Reinardy 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 9:38:50 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
 


Chuck,

No worries, I get a lot of surprised looks when people see our boat and realize 
how much they packed into a 30 foot hull on the Mark II.  It's very comfortable 
and inviting below.  There has not been much emphasis on 30 foot designs since, 
so I still think the combination of features is pretty unusual in the market 
even today.  The only downside is a fairly small cockpit, but it really has not 
been an issue for us.  It was a huge upgrade from our Catalina 27, I know that!

I am not sure of the evolution, the 30-2 was a fairly late design for C&C, 
coming out in 1988 as far as I can tell.  I don't see many that were made after 
'88, which I find interesting.  I know our '88 was a showroom boat in Michigan 
and did not see water until '90.  Can anyone shed any light on the later 
history of this model?

Thanks,

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI


Sent from my iPad

On Jul 12, 2013, at 7:08 AM, "Chuck S"  wrote:


Wow!  I checked the 30 MkII brochure and learned I had the wrong length.  Lot 
of interior in a 30 ft length.  Love that cabinetry.
>I guess Rob Ball tried out the aft cabin idea on the 30 first, then the 37/40 
>let him do an island bed, then the 34/36 used an athwartships bunk in back?  
>anybody know?
>
>Sorry if my earlier email sounded arrogant.  I like to be accurate, as I'm 
>trying to answer questions about the C&C design evolution.    
>My apologies.  
>
>
>Chuck
>Resolute
>1990 C&C 34R
>Atlantic City, NJ
>
>
>From: "Jim Reinardy" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:01:48 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
>
>
>No, I think he meant the 30, all of what he described is true of the mkII and 
>still pretty unusual in a 30 footer.  I do agree that it is a great boat as 
>well, but probably have some bias.
> 
>Jim Reinardy
>C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
>Milwaukee, WI
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
>Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 9:07 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
> 
>I think he meant the 33 MkII?  It's all in the details.
>Chuck
>Resolute
>1990 C&C 34R
>Atlantic City, NJ
>
>
>
>From: "dwight veinot" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 5:26:00 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
>Sorry can’t agree with you on the 30 MKII
> 
>Dwight Veinot
>C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
>Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> 
>
>
>
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
>Gallagher
>Sent: July 11, 2013 6:16 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time
> 
>...And since the 30MKII is the smaller of the three, (37+, 34+, 30MKII) and 
>the fact that it had to be the first 30 ft racer cruiser with an aft cabin, 
>aft head, walk through transom, and full standing 6'2"+ headroom throughout 
>makes it the bestest C&C ever :) 
>
>
>
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3204/5982 - Release Date: 07/11/13
>
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Dennis C.]

Not for my boat.   Touche' has a Harken Mk III.  Love it.

Nope, this is on a CS33.  My buddy and I install Harken furlers.  I'm the mast 
monkey.

If the old furlers are not in too bad condition, I usually them for a couple 
hundred $$ on eBay.  

Unfortunately, I tried to disassemble this Seafurl once we got it on the 
ground.  Couldn't separate the extrusion sections.  However, I now understand 
how a Hood Seafurl is constructed.  I did keep the drum and upper swivel 
assemblies.

Stevan, if your Ultrafoil is the same as or very similar to a Seafurl 2535, I 
have insight into the drum assembly and how the forestay is attached.  Took it 
apart.  It's in my truck.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: "honeys...@aol.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 11:31 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> 
>
>
>Swt.
> 
>In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
capt...@yahoo.com writes:
>Coincidence.  I'm dropping  an old Hood Seafoil 2536  today. Close cousin of 
>an Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk  IV
>>
>>Dennis C 
>>
>>
>>Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>On Jul 15, 2013, at 
  9:24 AM, "Prime Interest"  wrote:
>>
>>> 
  We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
>>> 
  causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as 
  you
>>> fight the curve.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Ed
>>> 
>>> Prime Interest
>>> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
>>> Toronto, 
  Canada
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: CnC-List 
  [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
>>> Sent: 
  Monday, July 15, 2013 9:20 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
>>> 
>>> It could be as 
  simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try and
>>> furl with 
  your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.
>>> 
>>> 
  Bill Bina
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa 
  wrote:
 Hi All.
 
 It seems the drum on my 
  ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs 
 used this 
  furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other 
 
  ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm 
 
  blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, 
 then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The 
 energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward 
  and 
 manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I 
 troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some 
  forestay 
 action but I'm hoping not.
 According to 
  their site it can be installed without dropping the 
 forestay so 
  I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500.
 I'm 
  waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.
 
 Any 
  ideas?
 Thanks,
 
 Steve
 Suhana, 
  C&C 32
 Toronto
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
  ___
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  by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>>> 
>>> 
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  List is provided by the C&C Photo 
  Album
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Dennis C.]

One of the most common problems is the second issue listed below.  I think 
Harken recommends a minimum divergence angle between forestay and halyard of 7 
degrees.  If you have a Harken furler, please consider a halyard restrainer to 
create that divergence.  My buddy and I have installed several in the past few 
years to the extreme delight of the boatowners.  Poof!  Halyard wrap problem 
gone!

We install a restrainer on EVERY Harken furler we install.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Bill Bina 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 12:36 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> 
>
>Some troubleshooting tips from a Harken manual that may apply to others
>
>Sail will not furl or is difficult to furl.
>Jib halyard is wrapping around headstay because
>angle between mast and and halyard is too shallow
>See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard angle. It may be 
>necessary
>to mount a halyard restrainer on front of your mast to hold halyard to rear.
>
>Jib halyard is wrapping around the headstay
>because halyard swivel is too low.
>See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard swivel height. A 
>wire pendant
>may be needed at head of sail to raise halyard swivel to proper height.
>
>Jib halyard is too tight.
>Ease jib halyard.
>
>Foils riding on turnbuckle.
>Raise foils. See adjusting turnbuckle on Page 24.
>
>Foils too high, binding on swage eye.
>Lower foils until clear. See adjusting turnbuckle on Page 24.
>
>Spare halyard is wrapping in sail as it furls.
>Secure spare halyards away from furling headstay by flipping them behind 
>spreaders
>
>Salt or dirt in bearings.
>Flush bearings with freshwater and lubricate with dry spray lubricant 
>such as McLube
>®
>
>Furling line tangled in drum.
>Overrides are best prevented by using a 7402 ratchet block as the last 
>furling line lead to maintain proper drag on line while unfurling.
>
>Stop knot catching.
>Make sure knot is a single overhand and is pushed up inside drum.
>
>Sail full of wind.
>Luff completely before furling or reefing.
>
>Sail flogging too much.
>Release a short length of sheet, pull some furling line and repeat.
>
>Jib sheets are not free.
>Free jib sheets.
>
>Foil out of drum assembly.
>Reinstall foil in drum assembly and tighten clamp screws.
>
>No wraps of furling line on drum.
>Remove sheets. Rotate stay wrapping as much furling line on drum as 
>possible.
>
>Lineguard assembly has slipped down.
>Tighten line guard assembly screws securely.
>
>Line through 7402 ratchet backwards.
>Rerun line.
>
>Halyard swivel installed upside down.
>Remount swivel correctly.
>
>Sail will not unfurl or will not unfurl completely.
>Jib halyard is wrapping around headstay because
>angle between mast and halyard is too shallow.
>See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard angle. It may be 
>necessary to
>mount a halyard restrainer on front of your mast to hold halyard to rear.
>
>Jib halyard is wrapping around the headstay
>because the halyard swivel is too low.
>See installation instructions
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[sam . c . salter]

To stop furling lines binding up in the drum, de core the furling line that wraps around the drum. Leave the core in at the end of the line where you handle it. This will reduce the bulk on the drum by half.   sam :-) 403-617-6280 From: Martin DeYoungSent: Monday, July 15, 2013 11:20 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking







> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
> fight the curve.
 
With Calypso’s Harken system both halyard and backstay tension have to be “tight” to avoid excessive resistance or halyard wrap.  Once in a while the furling line
 will bind up in the drum, especially when handling the #1 headsails (150%).
 
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of honeys...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking


 

Swt.


 



In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
capt...@yahoo.com writes:


Coincidence.  I'm dropping  an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin of an Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV

Dennis C 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Prime Interest"  wrote:

> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
> fight the curve.
> 
> Ed
> 
> Prime Interest
> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
> Toronto, Canada





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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Dennis C.]

Sam,

A properly sized furling line shouldn't overfill the drum.  The furling line 
should exit the drum at 90 degrees to the forestay.  Too high and it will fill 
the top of the drum; too low and it will fill the bottom of the drum.

Dennis C.





>
> From: "sam.c.sal...@gmail.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 4:18 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> 
>
>
>To stop furling lines binding up in the drum, de core the furling line that 
>wraps around the drum. Leave the core in at the end of the line where you 
>handle it. This will reduce the bulk on the drum by half. 
>
>
>sam :-) 403-617-6280
>From: Martin DeYoung
>Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 11:20 AM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking 
>
> 
>> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
>> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
>> fight the curve.
> 
>With Calypso’s Harken system both halyard and backstay tension have to be 
>“tight” to avoid excessive resistance or halyard wrap.  Once in a while the 
>furling line will bind up in the drum, especially when handling the #1 
>headsails (150%).
> 
>Martin
>Calypso
>1971 C&C 43
>Seattle
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
>honeys...@aol.com
>Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:31 AM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> 
>Swt.
> 
>In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
>capt...@yahoo.com writes:
>Coincidence.  I'm dropping  an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin of an 
>Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV
>>
>>Dennis C 
>>
>>Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Prime Interest"  wrote:
>>
>>> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
>>> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
>>> fight the curve.
>>> 
>>> Ed
>>> 
>>> Prime Interest
>>> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
>>> Toronto, Canada
>
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Stus-List Ultra furl and Harken Mk IV

[blhickson]

 Seafoil 2536  today. Close cousin 
> of an Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk  IV
> 
> Dennis C 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 15, 2013, at  9:24 AM, "Prime Interest"  
> wrote:
> 
>> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
>> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as  
> you
>> fight the curve.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Ed
>> 
>> Prime Interest
>> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
>> Toronto,  Canada
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List  [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
> Bina
>> Sent:  Monday, July 15, 2013 9:20 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
>> 
>> It could be as  simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try and
>> furl with  your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>> 
>> On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>>> Hi All.
>>> 
>>> It seems the drum on my  ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs 
>>> used this  furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other 
>>> ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm 
>>> blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn,  
>>> then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The  
>>> energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward  and 
>>> manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I  
>>> troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some  forestay 
>>> action but I'm hoping not.
>>> According to  their site it can be installed without dropping the 
>>> forestay so  I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500.
>>> I'm  waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.
>>> 
>>> Any  ideas?
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana,  C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20130715/071f9390/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 17:19:18 +
> From: Martin DeYoung 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> Message-ID: <23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d7ce...@dmi3.dmi.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
>> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
>> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
>> fight the curve.
> 
> With Calypso's Harken system both halyard and backstay tension have to be 
> "tight" to avoid excessive resistance or halyard wrap.  Once in a while the 
> furling line will bind up in the drum, especially when handling the #1 
> headsails (150%).
> 
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> honeys...@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:31 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking
> 
> Swt.
> 
> In a message dated 7/15/2013 12:20:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> capt...@yahoo.com<mailto:capt...@yahoo.com> writes:
> Coincidence.  I'm dropping  an old Hood Seafoil 2536 today. Close cousin of 
> an Ultrafurl. Replacing it with a Harken Mk IV
> 
> Dennis C
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 15, 2013, at 9:24 AM, "Prime Interest" 
> mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
>> We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
>> causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
>> fight the curve.
>> 
>> Ed
>> 
>> Prime Interest
>> 1982 C&C 38 Landfall
>> Toronto, Canada

Stus-List Going looking

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

  
  

I'm setting up an appointment to go look at a C&C 33 tomorrow. 
A few of the boats I've been watching have sold or have dropped off
the market (presumably not getting near the asking prices).

This C&C is local - Broker says it "needs an interior refresh"
but is a "super deal" - not that I'm going to allow that to define
my opinion.

You can see the listing at
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-33-2555288/Halifax/Canada#.UeRy1Y226So


  This is a special C&C
33 Mk I.  Built for and by the then C&C Rhode Island Plant
Manager Barry Carroll, the boat has features not found in any
other C&C 33. 
  
Taller than standard double spreader rig
Custom Doug Peterson style lead keel and ellipical shaped
  rudder
Many custom teak wood trim and finish appointments below
  
  Take a look at the Full
Specs for the complete story.


Has an Atomic 4 inboard - which after discussions on this list and
elsewhere I'm less concerned about.  Don't plan long distance
motoring anyway.

Any thoughts from Nova Scotia sailors on having a 6 ft 2in draft? I
know we have lots of depth in the harbour - but the point of getting
a bigger boat is to start touring around a little gunkholing.  

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

-- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  


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Re: Stus-List Going looking

[Bob Moriarty]

I'd take a closer look at what's coming out of the rudder in pic #9. I'm no
expert. Looks like rust. I'm curious what others think.
Also, the listing states/implies that the hull is cored. "Regular" 33-1's
have solid hulls, which might be preferable for a boat of this vintage.
Again, I'm no expert.

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

[Jake Brodersen]

Allan,

 

You have a good recollection of the last 30-2.  It was totaled after falling 
over on the hard in Annapolis.  Not sure what happened to it after that.  Maybe 
somebody fixed it up.  It was a great boat.

 

Greg is still racing, but on an Elliott 770 now.  He helped me a lot when I got 
my first C&C.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III

Midnight Mistress

Hampton VA

   

cid:image001.png@01CE3D06.5A990940

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Allan Rheaume
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 4:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

 

Jim, I've had a 30-2 for 14 years now, what I do know about them: first 4 built 
were 1987 models, they had plexiglass sliding doors for the galley storage and 
the panel behind the companionway steps was hinged opening to the aft cabin. 
The bulk of the boats were 1988 models. Some 1989 models had 3 cylinder 
Universal diesels. Three of the 30-2's were XL models with triple spreader rigs 
and running backstays. The XL's also had honeycombed bulkheads kevlar in the 
hulls and stainless cabin top rails. The last 30-2 was a 1995 XL version, it 
was owned by Greg Cutter who used to be on this list, his hull was # 175.

Allan Rheaume
Drumroll, 30-2 #90
Eastern Lake Ontario

 

 

  _  

From: Jim Reinardy 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 9:38:50 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

 

Chuck,

 

No worries, I get a lot of surprised looks when people see our boat and realize 
how much they packed into a 30 foot hull on the Mark II.  It's very comfortable 
and inviting below.  There has not been much emphasis on 30 foot designs since, 
so I still think the combination of features is pretty unusual in the market 
even today.  The only downside is a fairly small cockpit, but it really has not 
been an issue for us.  It was a huge upgrade from our Catalina 27, I know that!

 

I am not sure of the evolution, the 30-2 was a fairly late design for C&C, 
coming out in 1988 as far as I can tell.  I don't see many that were made after 
'88, which I find interesting.  I know our '88 was a showroom boat in Michigan 
and did not see water until '90.  Can anyone shed any light on the later 
history of this model?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI



Sent from my iPad


On Jul 12, 2013, at 7:08 AM, "Chuck S"  wrote:

Wow!  I checked the 30 MkII brochure and learned I had the wrong length.  Lot 
of interior in a 30 ft length.  Love that cabinetry.
I guess Rob Ball tried out the aft cabin idea on the 30 first, then the 37/40 
let him do an island bed, then the 34/36 used an athwartships bunk in back?  
anybody know?

Sorry if my earlier email sounded arrogant.  I like to be accurate, as I'm 
trying to answer questions about the C&C design evolution.
My apologies.  

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


From: "Jim Reinardy" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 11:01:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

No, I think he meant the 30, all of what he described is true of the mkII and 
still pretty unusual in a 30 footer.  I do agree that it is a great boat as 
well, but probably have some bias.

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 9:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

 

I think he meant the 33 MkII?  It's all in the details.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


  _  


From: "dwight veinot" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2013 5:26:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

Sorry can’t agree with you on the 30 MKII

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 


  _  


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Gallagher
Sent: July 11, 2013 6:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Best C&C's of all time

 

...And since the 30MKII is the smaller of the three, (37+, 34+, 30MKII) and the 
fact that it had to be the first 30 ft racer cruiser with an aft cabin, aft 
head, walk through transom, and full standing 6'2"+ headroom throughout makes 
it the bestest C&C ever :) 


  _  


No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3204/5982 - Release Date: 07/11/13


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Re: Stus-List Going looking

[Graham Collins]

Hi Mark
Budget for a new rudder - the weeping out the sides of it are a clear 
sign.  A good survey would find that - heck, a bad survey better find 
that.  Also the wiring looks a bit amateur in the shot from inside 
looking aft.  What is with the rails attached to the cockpit locker 
lids?  It also doesn't look like the lines are led aft (small winch farm 
next to the mast, visible in one pic)

The heater is a nice option though!

With regards the depth, we draw 6'5" per box specs (probably an inch or 
two more with all the crap I'm dragging around) and have not had issues.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-07-15 7:14 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:


I'm setting up an appointment to go look at a C&C 33 tomorrow.  A few 
of the boats I've been watching have sold or have dropped off the 
market (presumably not getting near the asking prices).


This C&C is local - Broker says it "needs an interior refresh" but is 
a "super deal" - not that I'm going to allow that to define my opinion.


You can see the listing at
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-33-2555288/Halifax/Canada#.UeRy1Y226So

This is a special C&C 33 Mk I.  Built for and by the then C&C Rhode 
Island Plant Manager Barry Carroll, the boat has features not found 
in any other C&C 33.


  * Taller than standard double spreader rig
  * Custom Doug Peterson style lead keel and ellipical shaped rudder
  * Many custom teak wood trim and finish appointments below

Take a look at the Full Specs for the complete story.



Has an Atomic 4 inboard - which after discussions on this list and 
elsewhere I'm less concerned about.  Don't plan long distance motoring 
anyway.


Any thoughts from Nova Scotia sailors on having a 6 ft 2in draft? I 
know we have lots of depth in the harbour - but the point of getting a 
bigger boat is to start touring around a little gunkholing.


Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

--

-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Going looking

[sbrown]

Hey Mark, 

I concur with Grahams comments and can attest to not encountering any issues 
with a boat drawing 6’5” in the local waters.



Scott Brown

Breezin’

C&C 35- III 


From: Graham Collins 
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 10:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Going looking

Hi Mark
Budget for a new rudder - the weeping out the sides of it are a clear sign.  A 
good survey would find that - heck, a bad survey better find that.  Also the 
wiring looks a bit amateur in the shot from inside looking aft.  What is with 
the rails attached to the cockpit locker lids?  It also doesn't look like the 
lines are led aft (small winch farm next to the mast, visible in one pic)
The heater is a nice option though!

With regards the depth, we draw 6'5" per box specs (probably an inch or two 
more with all the crap I'm dragging around) and have not had issues.   

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11On 2013-07-15 7:14 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:


  I'm setting up an appointment to go look at a C&C 33 tomorrow.  A few of the 
boats I've been watching have sold or have dropped off the market (presumably 
not getting near the asking prices).

  This C&C is local - Broker says it "needs an interior refresh" but is a 
"super deal" - not that I'm going to allow that to define my opinion.

  You can see the listing at
  
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-33-2555288/Halifax/Canada#.UeRy1Y226So


This is a special C&C 33 Mk I.  Built for and by the then C&C Rhode Island 
Plant Manager Barry Carroll, the boat has features not found in any other C&C 
33. 

  a.. Taller than standard double spreader rig 
  b.. Custom Doug Peterson style lead keel and ellipical shaped rudder 
  c.. Many custom teak wood trim and finish appointments below 
Take a look at the Full Specs for the complete story.


  Has an Atomic 4 inboard - which after discussions on this list and elsewhere 
I'm less concerned about.  Don't plan long distance motoring anyway.

  Any thoughts from Nova Scotia sailors on having a 6 ft 2in draft? I know we 
have lots of depth in the harbour - but the point of getting a bigger boat is 
to start touring around a little gunkholing.  

  Any input is appreciated.

  Thanks,
  Mark


-- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
   

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Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak

[Ronald B. Frerker]

On my 30-1 we found the cups and associated grease exit hole so badly cruded up 
that we had to take out the cup and the fitting which was screwed into the 
fiberglass and clean it up.
After that, we filled the cup and rotated a bit to get the grease out the exit 
and replaced into the rudder tube.  Turned a bit more to lube and the squeaking 
went away.
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL




 From: Jim Reinardy 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak
 


Blair, 

There is an access panel in the ceiling of the very back of the aft berth.  
Take those screws out and remove the panel.  Mine also has an drain pan above 
that.  Once that is gone, you have a pretty good view of the cable and the 
rudder post and you should be able to figure out what might be going on.

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 Firewater
Milwaukee, WI


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 14, 2013, at 4:59 PM, "Blair Clark"  wrote:


 
>Hi,
> 
>I have a1988  C&C 30 MK II with edson pedestal and steering out of DYC in 
>dartmouth NS.
> 
>The steering of Incognito has developed a major sqeak when turning the wheel 
>and it is stiff to turn. This Problem was first noticed when the wheel seemed 
>stiffer than usual after launch. Then it seemed to be intermittent  but today 
>with heat is very stiff and loud..
> 
>First I thought it may be clutch on Raymarine wheel pilot but now I believe 
>that I have narrowed it to either in the D 25 edson drive wheel or where the 
>rudder post shaft enters the emergency tiller collar.
> 
>I thought about taking the screws holding the outer collar of the emergency 
>tille on the floor of the cockpit before the walk through transor to see if I 
>could lubricate but chickened out as I really do not know what taking those 
>screws out would lead to in the water.
> 
>I have oiled the wire cable coming from base of pedestal to sheaves and then 
>aft to drive wheel and the wheel runs quiter but the squeak is still severe.
> 
>Please can someoen give me direction as to what to lubricate and how and 
>whether this can be all done safely in the water.
> 
>Thanks 
>
>Blair Clark 902-423-4651 
>
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Re: Stus-List Going looking

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

  
  
Yes, I had noticed that rusty spot on
  the rudder.
  I've never had to deal with something like that in the past -
  anyone have ideas on cost? I'm assuming rust means the inner frame
  will be shot and it is not "fixable".
  
  Never seem rails attached like that to the cockpit seats/lids -
  not sure how that makes for a comfortable seat even with cushions.
  
  Boat does have a few options with radar, chartplotter, autopilot
  etc - but sails are old (1996 according to the listing) -- figure
  that is a $7000 hit if they need replacing
  
  I'm guessing original winches, non-self tailing.  
  
  Worth a look.  See the size and space
  
  Thanks for the comments about depth issues, you and Scott.  
  
  Mark
  
  
  -
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 15/07/2013 10:00 PM, Graham Collins wrote:


  
  Hi Mark
Budget for a new rudder - the weeping out the sides of it are a
clear sign.  A good survey would find that - heck, a bad survey
better find that.  Also the wiring looks a bit amateur in the
shot from inside looking aft.  What is with the rails attached
to the cockpit locker lids?  It also doesn't look like the lines
are led aft (small winch farm next to the mast, visible in one
pic)
The heater is a nice option though!

With regards the depth, we draw 6'5" per box specs (probably an
inch or two more with all the crap I'm dragging around) and have
not had issues.   
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-07-15 7:14 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:
  
  


I'm setting up an appointment to go look at a C&C 33
tomorrow.  A few of the boats I've been watching have sold or
have dropped off the market (presumably not getting near the
asking prices).

This C&C is local - Broker says it "needs an interior
refresh" but is a "super deal" - not that I'm going to allow
that to define my opinion.

You can see the listing at
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-33-2555288/Halifax/Canada#.UeRy1Y226So


  This is a special C&C 33 Mk I.  Built for
and by the then C&C Rhode Island Plant Manager Barry
Carroll, the boat has features not found in any other
C&C 33. 
  
Taller than standard double spreader rig
Custom Doug Peterson style lead keel and ellipical
  shaped rudder
Many custom teak wood trim and finish appointments below
  
  Take a look at the Full Specs for the complete
story.


Has an Atomic 4 inboard - which after discussions on this list
and elsewhere I'm less concerned about.  Don't plan long
distance motoring anyway.

Any thoughts from Nova Scotia sailors on having a 6 ft 2in
draft? I know we have lots of depth in the harbour - but the
point of getting a bigger boat is to start touring around a
little gunkholing.  

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark

-- 

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana



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Re: Stus-List Going looking

[Rick Brass]

Back about 12 years ago I was shopping for a bigger  boat to replace my 25,
and decided that the 33-1 was probably the best looking sailboat ever made -
with the possible exception of the 62/63/65 foot Swan. Then again that was
before I saw my 38. I can see the resemblance though, and Rob Ball did say
that the 38 was an enlarged version of the 33.

 

Regarding the older sails, I'd use them a bit before I ran out to replace
them. A recent article by North Sails in Cruising Compass and the electronic
edition of Blue Water Sailing was entitled "How long will my sails last?".
It pointed out that a new sail can be expected to last between 4000 and 7000
hours of sailing depending on the material used. Since the average sailboat
owner only sails about 200-300 hours per year it isn't unusual for the sail
material to last 17 to 20 years. Racing sails lose their shape from stress,
and older sails may benefit from a recut or two over their lifetime and
restitching occasionally (stitching dies faster than the sail cloth, the
article said). If this boat has not been used much and the sails were not
exposed to UV for long periods, a little relatively inexpensive sail
maintenance may get you a lot of useful life.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 10:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Going looking

 

Yes, I had noticed that rusty spot on the rudder.
I've never had to deal with something like that in the past - anyone have
ideas on cost? I'm assuming rust means the inner frame will be shot and it
is not "fixable".

Never seem rails attached like that to the cockpit seats/lids - not sure how
that makes for a comfortable seat even with cushions.

Boat does have a few options with radar, chartplotter, autopilot etc - but
sails are old (1996 according to the listing) -- figure that is a $7000 hit
if they need replacing

I'm guessing original winches, non-self tailing.  

Worth a look.  See the size and space

Thanks for the comments about depth issues, you and Scott.  

Mark





-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 15/07/2013 10:00 PM, Graham Collins wrote:

Hi Mark
Budget for a new rudder - the weeping out the sides of it are a clear sign.
A good survey would find that - heck, a bad survey better find that.  Also
the wiring looks a bit amateur in the shot from inside looking aft.  What is
with the rails attached to the cockpit locker lids?  It also doesn't look
like the lines are led aft (small winch farm next to the mast, visible in
one pic)
The heater is a nice option though!

With regards the depth, we draw 6'5" per box specs (probably an inch or two
more with all the crap I'm dragging around) and have not had issues.   



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-07-15 7:14 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:


I'm setting up an appointment to go look at a C&C 33 tomorrow.  A few of the
boats I've been watching have sold or have dropped off the market
(presumably not getting near the asking prices).

This C&C is local - Broker says it "needs an interior refresh" but is a
"super deal" - not that I'm going to allow that to define my opinion.

You can see the listing at
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-33-2555288/Halifax/Canada#.UeRy1Y
226So




This is a special C&C 33 Mk I.  Built for and by the then C&C Rhode Island
Plant Manager Barry Carroll, the boat has features not found in any other
C&C 33. 

. Taller than standard double spreader rig

. Custom Doug Peterson style lead keel and ellipical shaped rudder

. Many custom teak wood trim and finish appointments below

Take a look at the Full Specs for the complete story.


Has an Atomic 4 inboard - which after discussions on this list and elsewhere
I'm less concerned about.  Don't plan long distance motoring anyway.

Any thoughts from Nova Scotia sailors on having a 6 ft 2in draft? I know we
have lots of depth in the harbour - but the point of getting a bigger boat
is to start touring around a little gunkholing.  

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark




-- 
 
-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana






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Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap

[Rick Brass]

The talk about Ultrafurl and Harken furlers on the list reminded me of
something I'd been asked to do:

A friend of mine had a Catalina 38 with an old Hood furler for which parts
were no longer available. He bought himself a Harken furler (model unknown)
with 50+ feet of luff extrusion to install on his boat, and then the boat
was totaled in Hurricane Irene a couple of years ago. 

He still has the furler in the overhead of his garage, and asked if I know
anyone who might want to buy the furler. I believe he only wants $400 or
$500 for it. The extrusions are in 6 foot sections, so the furler should be
shippable by UPS at a fairly reasonable cost.

If anyone is interested in talking to my friend, please let me know off list
and I will put you in contact with each other.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC






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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Chuck S]

Hi Dennis, 
The restrainer may be in my future. Right now I have a pemanent pendant at the 
head of my sail that positions the furler swivel correctly. 
Do you recommend any certain brand, or size? 



Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Dennis C."  
To: "Cn Clist"  
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 5:15:52 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking 


One of the most common problems is the second issue listed below. I think 
Harken recommends a minimum divergence angle between forestay and halyard of 7 
degrees. If you have a Harken furler, please consider a halyard restrainer to 
create that divergence. My buddy and I have installed several in the past few 
years to the extreme delight of the boatowners. Poof! Halyard wrap problem 
gone! 

We install a restrainer on EVERY Harken furler we install. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 










From: Bill Bina  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 12:36 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking 


Some troubleshooting tips from a Harken manual that may apply to others 

Sail will not furl or is difficult to furl. 
Jib halyard is wrapping around headstay because 
angle between mast and and halyard is too shallow 
See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard angle. It may be 
necessary 
to mount a halyard restrainer on front of your mast to hold halyard to rear. 

Jib halyard is wrapping around the headstay 
because halyard swivel is too low. 
See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard swivel height. A 
wire pendant 
may be needed at head of sail to raise halyard swivel to proper height. 

Jib halyard is too tight. 
Ease jib halyard. 

Foils riding on turnbuckle. 
Raise foils. See adjusting turnbuckle on Page 24. 

Foils too high, binding on swage eye. 
Lower foils until clear. See adjusting turnbuckle on Page 24. 

Spare halyard is wrapping in sail as it furls. 
Secure spare halyards away from furling headstay by flipping them behind 
spreaders 

Salt or dirt in bearings. 
Flush bearings with freshwater and lubricate with dry spray lubricant 
such as McLube 
® 

Furling line tangled in drum. 
Overrides are best prevented by using a 7402 ratchet block as the last 
furling line lead to maintain proper drag on line while unfurling. 

Stop knot catching. 
Make sure knot is a single overhand and is pushed up inside drum. 

Sail full of wind. 
Luff completely before furling or reefing. 

Sail flogging too much. 
Release a short length of sheet, pull some furling line and repeat. 

Jib sheets are not free. 
Free jib sheets. 

Foil out of drum assembly. 
Reinstall foil in drum assembly and tighten clamp screws. 

No wraps of furling line on drum. 
Remove sheets. Rotate stay wrapping as much furling line on drum as 
possible. 

Lineguard assembly has slipped down. 
Tighten line guard assembly screws securely. 

Line through 7402 ratchet backwards. 
Rerun line. 

Halyard swivel installed upside down. 
Remount swivel correctly. 

Sail will not unfurl or will not unfurl completely. 
Jib halyard is wrapping around headstay because 
angle between mast and halyard is too shallow. 
See installation instructions regarding optimal halyard angle. It may be 
necessary to 
mount a halyard restrainer on front of your mast to hold halyard to rear. 

Jib halyard is wrapping around the headstay 
because the halyard swivel is too low. 
See installation instructions 


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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[randy]

Steve, seems to me this is your first season with the boat?  Never ass-u-me,
but if we allow the PO probably used it as a sail boat set up as is, the
most common problem I've found is halyard tension.  Probably because of no
restrainer, it's more important, but there seems to be a sweet spot between
too tight and too loose, that "goldilocks" likes.  While at the dock you
might experiment w/ just an inch or so at a time of halyard tension or
release.  Lot easier than climbing the mast to install more goodies.  And
that "assumes" of course there's no wrap from another halyard, etc.

 

randy

Tamanawas

29-II

Hood River, OR

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 6:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

 

Hi All.

 

It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs used
this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other ultrafurl
owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm blaming the drum. It
needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, then come to a stop, turn,
then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The energy required to turn it is quite
high, I have to go forward and manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the
sail. How can I troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some
forestay action but I'm hoping not. 

According to their site it can be installed without dropping the forestay so
I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500. I'm waiting on an
email back from ultrafurl.

 

Any ideas?

Thanks,

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Going looking

[Rick Brass]

Mark;

 

>From earlier discussions on the various C&C lists over the years, it seems
that C&C built a lot of rudders with stainless rudder shafts and mild steel
webs - and that a lot of these rudders had weep holes in them so they could
dry out over the winter. It looks like the two spots might be opposite each
other, so they might be purpose made weep holes.

 

When I replaced the rudder on my 38 in early 2011 (shaft problem, the web
was OK after 35 years), the new rudder from Foss Foam in Florida cost about
$2600 including shipping to NC, and I provided a stainless rudder shaft for
use in making the rudder.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Going looking

 

Hi Mark
Budget for a new rudder - the weeping out the sides of it are a clear sign.
A good survey would find that - heck, a bad survey better find that.  Also
the wiring looks a bit amateur in the shot from inside looking aft.  What is
with the rails attached to the cockpit locker lids?  It also doesn't look
like the lines are led aft (small winch farm next to the mast, visible in
one pic)
The heater is a nice option though!

With regards the depth, we draw 6'5" per box specs (probably an inch or two
more with all the crap I'm dragging around) and have not had issues.   



Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-07-15 7:14 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar wrote:


I'm setting up an appointment to go look at a C&C 33 tomorrow.  A few of the
boats I've been watching have sold or have dropped off the market
(presumably not getting near the asking prices).

This C&C is local - Broker says it "needs an interior refresh" but is a
"super deal" - not that I'm going to allow that to define my opinion.

You can see the listing at
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-33-2555288/Halifax/Canada#.UeRy1Y
226So




This is a special C&C 33 Mk I.  Built for and by the then C&C Rhode Island
Plant Manager Barry Carroll, the boat has features not found in any other
C&C 33. 

. Taller than standard double spreader rig

. Custom Doug Peterson style lead keel and ellipical shaped rudder

. Many custom teak wood trim and finish appointments below

Take a look at the Full Specs for the complete story.


Has an Atomic 4 inboard - which after discussions on this list and elsewhere
I'm less concerned about.  Don't plan long distance motoring anyway.

Any thoughts from Nova Scotia sailors on having a 6 ft 2in draft? I know we
have lots of depth in the harbour - but the point of getting a bigger boat
is to start touring around a little gunkholing.  

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Mark




-- 
 
-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.bedfordchiro.ca
-
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana






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