Stus-List Gear shift
Hi All, This may seem to be a very dumb question but the knowledge on this site is just too tempting to resist. I am going through my new-to me 1974 33 3/4tonner with the hope of launching her next weekend. I have the hull in reasonably good condition below the waterline (through hull fittings, bottom paint, running gear, etc.) now it is time to go through the engine and related systems. This boat has an Atomic 4, probably original and it seems to be in pretty good shape for its age. Looks like it was well maintained. I have a couple hopefully simple questions. 1. Is there generally an off or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key 2. This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I cant seem to find? 3.My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey or sea trial . Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart. Skip 1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner Not named yet but leaning toward Mary Jane Not as a tribute to my hippy youth. Those are our Moms names! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List About bigger boats
For two days difference, I would get one of those water bags. Or they may be lift bags that they put water in to Lay it over a little like the popular video of the ketch going under the ICW Bridges. Bill Coleman CC 39 -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 9:10 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List About bigger boats I'm sitting on a balcony watching the sunset at a friend's condo overlooking the beginning of Rocky Bayou on the northern reaches of Choctowatchee Bay at Niceville, Fla. I'm pondering the recent thread on a bigger boat. This venue is lovely. We've watched a lot of sailboats and power boats come and go to/from the the marina a bit north. If I was to bring Touch� here it would take 5 days. A 30 would only take 3 days. I can't get Touch� under the ICW bridges at Navarre Beach or Fort Walton. Similarly, I can't get under the East Pass bridge coming in from the gulf at Destin. I'd have to transit all the way to Panama City, enter St. Andrews Bay then come back west via the ICW to get into Chocotowatchee Bay. That's an extra 2 days. Friend of mine traded his Beneteau 47 for an Island Packet 485. Now he can't get under the Pensacola Beach bridge to sail Santa Rosa Sound, some really prime sailing waters. So, there are some disadvantages to a bigger boat. Dennis C. Touch� 35-1 #83 Mandeville, La Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List About bigger boats
You all drifted off a couple pieces to this puzzle: 1. The OP is new to sailing and boat ownership 2. The bigger boat in question is a *$16,000* 42 foot boat. The CC 30 is a GREAT boat to learn to sail AND to learn to be a boat owner. The scale of the repairs, if needed, both in cost and physical size/weight is doable. A bargain basement 40+ foot boat is going to need expensive upgrades and repairs that are hard to appreciate for a new-to-boating person. This is kind of like when one of my flight students realized that while $100,00 would get him a great 4 seat airplane in nearly new condition, it would also get an old DC-3. He had no idea that the latter airplane would be costing him $100,000 every year, not just the year he bought it. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in bold type ![if !supportLists]1. ![endif]Is there generally an ldquo;offrdquo; or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch. ![if !supportLists]2. ![endif]This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I canrsquo;t seem to find? Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil. ![if !supportLists]3. ![endif] My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not. It kind of slips into reverse with no clunking into gear. Forward is far more noticeable. Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 direct drive New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. 85lbs is not bad. A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over 100lbs I believe. Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey or sea trialhellip;. Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart. Head over to the moyer marine forums. You get loads of great info over there! I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago. Most people advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost and time consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it wasd drop in replacement. There are still 20,000 of them out there running nicely and moyer makes it a far more viable engine and perfectly serviceable. DannyLolita1973 Viking 33Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in bold type ![if !supportLists]1. ![endif]Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch. ![if !supportLists]2. ![endif]This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil. ![if !supportLists]3. ![endif] My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not. It kind of slips into reverse with no clunking into gear. Forward is far more noticeable. Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 direct drive New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. 85lbs is not bad. A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over 100lbs I believe. Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart. Head over to the moyer marine forums. You get loads of great info over there! I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago. Most people advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost and time consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it wasd drop in replacement. There are still 20,000 of them out there running nicely and moyer makes it a far more viable engine and perfectly serviceable. Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences,
Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Hi, I have come across a small pencil-sized hole in my LF38 hull located a few inches forward of the rudder tube. I am not certain of the intent of this hole, but I do recall that on my old 29-1 that it had a short stainless rod coming out of the hull from about the same location(a line diverter?). My guess is that the LF38 had a similar rod which is now missing. I am thinking of filling the hole. Does anyone know what this hole actually is and is there any reason why it should not be filled? Thanks for any insight. - Paul Eugenio 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Paul, Yes, there should be a rod coming out of that hull, and you should replace it. It’s purpose is to deflect seaweed and other items from getting caught in your rudder post as you move through the water. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Jul 7, 2014, at 12:01 PM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, I have come across a small pencil-sized hole in my LF38 hull located a few inches forward of the rudder tube. I am not certain of the intent of this hole, but I do recall that on my old 29-1 that it had a short stainless rod coming out of the hull from about the same location(a line diverter?). My guess is that the LF38 had a similar rod which is now missing. I am thinking of filling the hole. Does anyone know what this hole actually is and is there any reason why it should not be filled? Thanks for any insight. - Paul Eugenio 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
My new E7 Raymarine chartplotter reboots when I start the engine (a Perkins diesel). Cat's Paw's batteries are quite new, fully charged, and hold their charge well. But obviously the voltage drops when cranking the engine. None of my other electronics is affected this way, including an old CP 150 Standard Horizon and a 2007 CP300 chartplotter. Apparently the E7 demands a higher voltage to keep from crashing. Best way to deal with this? Others must have a similar problem. I could put a small rechargable battery just before the panel switch to the E7 with a diode to the main battery, so it is kept charged but maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage drops. But I bet there is a better solution. Suggestions welcome! Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII *From:* Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM *To:* bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in *bold* type ![if !supportLists]1. ![endif]Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key *Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch.* ![if !supportLists]2. ![endif]This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? *Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil.* ![if !supportLists]3. ![endif] My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. * Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not. It kind of slips into reverse with no clunking into gear. Forward is far more noticeable. Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 direct drive* New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. *85lbs is not bad. A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over 100lbs I believe.* Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart. *Head over to the moyer marine forums. You get loads of great info over there! I got the Moyer exchange engine for my boat a couple of years ago. Most people advised a diesel conversion but, I could not justify the cost and time consideration when the A4 pushes my boat along just fine and it wasd drop in replacement. There are still 20,000 of them out there running
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
Time to re wire your boat to have an isolated starting battery and a house battery. That will eliminate most of your charging/starting/low voltage problems. Here's my take on it: http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ Rich On Jul 7, 2014, at 13:18, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
Better to check the wiring to the engine and reduce the voltage drop. Joel On Monday, July 7, 2014, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: My new E7 Raymarine chartplotter reboots when I start the engine (a Perkins diesel). Cat's Paw's batteries are quite new, fully charged, and hold their charge well. But obviously the voltage drops when cranking the engine. None of my other electronics is affected this way, including an old CP 150 Standard Horizon and a 2007 CP300 chartplotter. Apparently the E7 demands a higher voltage to keep from crashing. Best way to deal with this? Others must have a similar problem. I could put a small rechargable battery just before the panel switch to the E7 with a diode to the main battery, so it is kept charged but maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage drops. But I bet there is a better solution. Suggestions welcome! Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:; To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
Yes! I can start my engine all day and none of the boat equipment knows the difference. Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:23 PM To: Eric Frank; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine Time to re wire your boat to have an isolated starting battery and a house battery. That will eliminate most of your charging/starting/low voltage problems. Here's my take on it: http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ Rich On Jul 7, 2014, at 13:18, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
would say, your battery is low (more or less damaged). In this case voltage will decrease during starting the engine and computer will shut down. I had same last year, new battery, everything fine again. best regards Peter Am 07.07.2014 19:31, schrieb Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List: Yes! I can start my engine all day and none of the boat equipment knows the difference. Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:23 PM To: Eric Frank; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine Time to re wire your boat to have an isolated starting battery and a house battery. That will eliminate most of your charging/starting/low voltage problems. Here's my take on it: http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ Rich On Jul 7, 2014, at 13:18, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
Along with all the advice already given to avoid voltage drop, check for any chart plotter wiring run close to high current wiring. On Calypso, some sensitive electronics have had issues if I ran any of their power or sensor cables/wires very close to the engine starting or charging circuits. Once in a while my cell phone will freak if I lay it close to those same cables and start the engine. Calypso does have separate start and house banks but there is a concentration of 00 gage battery cables in several areas between the battery banks and the engine space. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 9:18 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine My new E7 Raymarine chartplotter reboots when I start the engine (a Perkins diesel). Cat's Paw's batteries are quite new, fully charged, and hold their charge well. But obviously the voltage drops when cranking the engine. None of my other electronics is affected this way, including an old CP 150 Standard Horizon and a 2007 CP300 chartplotter. Apparently the E7 demands a higher voltage to keep from crashing. Best way to deal with this? Others must have a similar problem. I could put a small rechargable battery just before the panel switch to the E7 with a diode to the main battery, so it is kept charged but maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage drops. But I bet there is a better solution. Suggestions welcome! Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
According to Raymarine documentation, the E7 operating voltage range is 10.2 - 15.6 volts. Bill Bina On 7/7/2014 12:18 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote: My new E7 Raymarine chartplotter reboots when I start the engine (a Perkins diesel). Cat's Paw's batteries are quite new, fully charged, and hold their charge well. But obviously the voltage drops when cranking the engine. None of my other electronics is affected this way, including an old CP 150 Standard Horizon and a 2007 CP300 chartplotter. Apparently the E7 demands a higher voltage to keep from crashing. Best way to deal with this? Others must have a similar problem. I could put a small rechargable battery just before the panel switch to the E7 with a diode to the main battery, so it is kept charged but maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage drops. But I bet there is a better solution. Suggestions welcome! Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in bold type ![if !supportLists]1. ![endif]Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch. ![if !supportLists]2. ![endif]This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil. ![if !supportLists]3. ![endif] My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not. It kind of slips into reverse with no clunking into gear. Forward is far more noticeable. Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and the forward it 1:1 direct drive New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. 85lbs is not bad. A perfect or freshly rebuilt typically runs over 100lbs I believe. Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I paid very
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
Have you checked how low the battery voltage is dropping when you crank the engine? Marek (in Ottawa) -Original Message- From: Colomba via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:40 PM To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine would say, your battery is low (more or less damaged). In this case voltage will decrease during starting the engine and computer will shut down. I had same last year, new battery, everything fine again. best regards Peter Am 07.07.2014 19:31, schrieb Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List: Yes! I can start my engine all day and none of the boat equipment knows the difference. Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:23 PM To: Eric Frank; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine Time to re wire your boat to have an isolated starting battery and a house battery. That will eliminate most of your charging/starting/low voltage problems. Here's my take on it: http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ Rich On Jul 7, 2014, at 13:18, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.commailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in bold type ![if !supportLists]1. ![endif]Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch. ![if !supportLists]2. ![endif]This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil. ![if !supportLists]3. ![endif] My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. Mine is the same whether the engine is running or not. It kind of slips into reverse with no clunking into gear. Forward is far more noticeable. Reverse has a 2:1 ratio I believe and
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
A friend of mine had that problem, and he bought a little widget to isolate the chartplotter and maintain voltage, kind of like a little voltage conditioner. Search on defender or West. Bill Coleman CC 39 -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:31 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine Yes! I can start my engine all day and none of the boat equipment knows the difference. Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:23 PM To: Eric Frank; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine Time to re wire your boat to have an isolated starting battery and a house battery. That will eliminate most of your charging/starting/low voltage problems. Here's my take on it: http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ Rich On Jul 7, 2014, at 13:18, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Thanks Edd. Do you know if the rod should have a bend to it or should it be a straight piece just a few inches in length? Paul - Paul Eugenio 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On Jul 7, 2014, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 12:07:07 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube Message-ID: a61277c8-6514-4829-adb3-278b4c90a...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Paul, Yes, there should be a rod coming out of that hull, and you should replace it. It?s purpose is to deflect seaweed and other items from getting caught in your rudder post as you move through the water. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
Even scarier are people who store those one-pound camping propane bottles below on their boat. These are $4 bottles with no safety gear on them. I’ve seen old ones empty themselves of propane after a bad fit on a stove. (Luckily, outdoors.) I keep one canister on deck in a capped propane pipe with escape holes drilled in the bottom. When I use it occasionally on a Sea Swing stove, I mount it in the cockpit and check for leaks first. Jack Brennan Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:10 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in bold type ![if !supportLists]1. ![endif]Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a kill switch. ![if !supportLists]2. ![endif]This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? Mine is powered by the ignition and is wired to the coil. ![if !supportLists]3. ![endif] My
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
Ouch, C’mon Joe, I said with all due respect, that is supposed to isolate me from retribution! I realize these occurrences are very rare, but they do happen. And I am so forgetful, I spend half my day chasing around looking for stuff or what I was doing, I wouldn’t trust myself with such a responsibility. And no, I don’t have a propane stove, the PO removed it and put in a microwave. (It is still sitting around the shop somewhere) But I do now have a Magma, but when I am going to use it I keep the little disposable canister in the old propane locker. I also, like you, had a few gallons of fuel leak into my bilge, and I was glad It was diesel. You were very lucky, I would say. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one boat and Atomic 4 (well 2 as I replaced the original) Comments below in bold type ![if !supportLists]1. ![endif]Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key Mine just uses the keyed ignition as a
Re: Stus-List butyl cleanup
Nate, This weekend I used a rag soaked with Naphtha to clean the old grease from the rudder tube. During the process I also noticed that Naphtha cleans up butyl quite easily. - Paul Eugenio 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On Jul 2, 2014, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: From: Nate Flesness nateflesn...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List butyl cleanup? Message-ID: cag5sonsq9klocjczv779z3bg8mp4dreqon-vbqgdpgowsnd...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Planning on cleaning and painting the storage areas on our 30-1. The wonderfully immortal butyl hull/deck sealant has dripped and drooped in many places. Any tips on the best cleanup strategy? (PS. It was gusting 30-35 knots and 86F in the marina Sunday, but half a mile out our neighbors reported 40 degrees F and that their winter parkas were not enough so they came back in) Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Paul, The one on the Enterprise is about 3-4 inches, sticking straight down. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Jul 7, 2014, at 2:38 PM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks Edd. Do you know if the rod should have a bend to it or should it be a straight piece just a few inches in length? Paul - Paul Eugenio 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On Jul 7, 2014, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 12:07:07 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube Message-ID: a61277c8-6514-4829-adb3-278b4c90a...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Paul, Yes, there should be a rod coming out of that hull, and you should replace it. It?s purpose is to deflect seaweed and other items from getting caught in your rudder post as you move through the water. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
If I'm buying a new boat, yeah diesel all the way. If I'm buying a 30 year old boat assuming the same boat, one with a 30 year old diesel and one with a 30 year old atomic 4 .. the diesel will likely be asking about 5k more on the resale, if not more. That was my experience when shopping around and to me, IMO, it's not worth that kind of premium, at least not on boats in the 15k - 20k range. No debate from me that gasoline is superior to diesel on a boat, diesel is better for sure. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 2:50 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ouch, C’mon Joe, I said with all due respect, that is supposed to isolate me from retribution! I realize these occurrences are very rare, but they do happen. And I am so forgetful, I spend half my day chasing around looking for stuff or what I was doing, I wouldn’t trust myself with such a responsibility. And no, I don’t have a propane stove, the PO removed it and put in a microwave. (It is still sitting around the shop somewhere) But I do now have a Magma, but when I am going to use it I keep the little disposable canister in the old propane locker. I also, like you, had a few gallons of fuel leak into my bilge, and I was glad It was diesel. You were very lucky, I would say. Bill Coleman CC 39 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, July 07, 2014 2:11 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Gear shift We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! *Joe Della Barba* Coquina *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Coleman via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List *Sent:* Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM *To:* Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
Respectfully, I have heard that argument and it has merit. My opinion is that it only takes a little vapor in the wrong place at the wrong time to cause an explosive issue. I am used to having (3) gasoline fired engines below my decks and (3) tanks that can carry almost 300 gallons of fuel. It is something you need to be aware of and treat as seriously as it should be treated, whether you have 300 gallons or 3 gallons for your dingy. Gasoline vapor detectors are nice in any boat regardless of fuel type. Blowers should be standard equipment, too. In my case I always rely also on my nose. I have found sources of stray gasoline before but always instantly obvious. The detector adds a little extra comfort. I like that there is one tank, one short fuel line, one filler, one vent, one external filter and one engine. Makes it very simple to maintain the integrity of the system. All that said, I have no discomfort safely carrying 2o gallons of gasoline on board or a jug for the dingy (which should never be stored below decks). I very much like the smooth, quiet operation of the gas motor. I had my last set of gasoline motors on a power boat since 1970. They still run great with over 3500 hours on the hobbs. (The Piper Warrior I fly uses gas, too.) Question: Is it standard practice for some hulls to come fitted with both diesel and gas deck plates? Mine has both, along with water, which like the diesel deck plate is connected to nothing. I think that in order to avoid the potential for a very messy and dangerous situation I might just remove the diesel filler plate From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
That is no fun! I know of homes who transitioned off oil heat, had the inside tank removed BUT did not remove the outside fill pipe. A basement flooded with heating oil is a slippery slope of darkness I might just remove the diesel filler plate Don On Jul 7, 2014, at 3:06 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I might just remove the diesel filler plate ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
I think this discussion has been exhausted numerous times before on numerous forums. However, diesel or gas ... if the tanks higher than the engine, how many of you have an anti-siphon valve at the tank? And how old is your fuel tank? From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 11:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Ouch, C’mon Joe, I said with all due respect, that is supposed to isolate me from retribution! I realize these occurrences are very rare, but they do happen. And I am so forgetful, I spend half my day chasing around looking for stuff or what I was doing, I wouldn’t trust myself with such a responsibility. And no, I don’t have a propane stove, the PO removed it and put in a microwave. (It is still sitting around the shop somewhere) But I do now have a Magma, but when I am going to use it I keep the little disposable canister in the old propane locker. I also, like you, had a few gallons of fuel leak into my bilge, and I was glad It was diesel. You were very lucky, I would say. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To: bstrat...@falconnect.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Hi, I have a Viking 33 with an Atomic 4. I can only comment from my experience with this one
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
Were there any diesel powered British sports cars? :-) Bill Bina On 7/7/2014 3:23 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote: I think this discussion has been exhausted numerous times before on numerous forums. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
I need a stick-out-tongue emoticon in here someplace…pffftt I don’t want to count on luck – not that I would turn it down, but having had many gasoline powered boats and only one diesel, the safe operating habits are very well ingrained at this point. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Ouch, C’mon Joe, I said with all due respect, that is supposed to isolate me from retribution! I realize these occurrences are very rare, but they do happen. And I am so forgetful, I spend half my day chasing around looking for stuff or what I was doing, I wouldn’t trust myself with such a responsibility. And no, I don’t have a propane stove, the PO removed it and put in a microwave. (It is still sitting around the shop somewhere) But I do now have a Magma, but when I am going to use it I keep the little disposable canister in the old propane locker. I also, like you, had a few gallons of fuel leak into my bilge, and I was glad It was diesel. You were very lucky, I would say. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny adjusted so that you actually get a ‘neutral’, without any slippage in forward was an issue with mine when the engine was rebuilt. I think it needs some more adjustment now. Using an oil that is rated for wet clutches (i.e. some motorcycle oil) is also recommended by many. Moyer is a fantastic resource and parts source. I picked up their split shaft coupling, oil dipstick extension, some water pump parts and the alternator tensioner recently. Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII From: Danny Haughey via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:55 AM To:
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
I do NOT rely on the float valve to keep the gas in the tank. I shut my fuel pump off and let the engine run until it quits. The fact that it does quit means there is no active siphon too. A habit I got into with airplanes long ago – we usually shut them off by cutting the fuel, not the ignition. BTW – my wife is totally with the diesel or nothing camp. I will NOT be ever even thinking of buying another gasoline powered sailboat says the admiral. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift I think this discussion has been exhausted numerous times before on numerous forums. However, diesel or gas ... if the tanks higher than the engine, how many of you have an anti-siphon valve at the tank? And how old is your fuel tank? From: Bill Coleman via CnC-Listmailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 11:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Ouch, C’mon Joe, I said with all due respect, that is supposed to isolate me from retribution! I realize these occurrences are very rare, but they do happen. And I am so forgetful, I spend half my day chasing around looking for stuff or what I was doing, I wouldn’t trust myself with such a responsibility. And no, I don’t have a propane stove, the PO removed it and put in a microwave. (It is still sitting around the shop somewhere) But I do now have a Magma, but when I am going to use it I keep the little disposable canister in the old propane locker. I also, like you, had a few gallons of fuel leak into my bilge, and I was glad It was diesel. You were very lucky, I would say. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition (pull-out knob) and a start button. My Ignition is my ‘stop’. I’ve also added low oil pressure, high temperature and zero coolant flow alarms, with a buzzer and warning light on the instrument panel. My gear shift is fairly easy to move. I have to hold the pedestal-mounted gear shift up to keep it in reverse. Neutral is very vague and forward has a definite ‘clunk’ to it. Getting the Atomic 4 tranny
Stus-List gas exposions marine engines
one nearby boat gas fuel explosionyou realize the real dangerearly in my sailing ownerships...had experience leaking gas fuel dripping on water jacked muffler ..noticed when engine shutdown to begin distance race,,fuel smell,,it didnt take long for a crew of 11 to get pails..riggers buckets ,etc,and drown whole engine and hot muffler...auto pumps activated water fuel pumped overboard..left gas spill on water which SAR was happy to clean up...reason for event discovered later fuel tank float rubbed bottom of tank until wore hole in tank bottom...crew really had it together...one half did engine drowning..other half..hung over bow to encourage fwd pumps to engage ..REALLY LUCKY..FUME DETECTER ALSO DEFECTIVEhad manya4s after that with quality fail safe fume detecters...now a hign torque diesel user ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines
I am going to suggest that getting rid of gasoline in the boat with electric bilge pumps is not the best way to go. I did all my cleanup with the batteries off and nothing was turned on until the boat was spotless clean and smelling of nothing but Joy dish soap. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 4:00 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines one nearby boat gas fuel explosionyou realize the real dangerearly in my sailing ownerships...had experience leaking gas fuel dripping on water jacked muffler ..noticed when engine shutdown to begin distance race,,fuel smell,,it didnt take long for a crew of 11 to get pails..riggers buckets ,etc,and drown whole engine and hot muffler...auto pumps activated water fuel pumped overboard..left gas spill on water which SAR was happy to clean up...reason for event discovered later fuel tank float rubbed bottom of tank until wore hole in tank bottom...crew really had it together...one half did engine drowning..other half..hung over bow to encourage fwd pumps to engage ..REALLY LUCKY..FUME DETECTER ALSO DEFECTIVEhad manya4s after that with quality fail safe fume detecters...now a hign torque diesel user ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List gas explosions marine engines
Only problem, you usually dont know it is leaking into the bilge, , (My case) and then float kicks the pump on. I have one of those See Witch electronic switches, and it WONT pump oil. I dont know about gas. But it didnt pump a drop of my diesel overboard. Never mind, it is a Water Witch, https://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteElements/Pages/SecondaryPages/Products /BilgeSwitches.html But I swear by mine. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 4:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines I am going to suggest that getting rid of gasoline in the boat with electric bilge pumps is not the best way to go. I did all my cleanup with the  batteries off and nothing was turned on until the boat was spotless clean and smelling of nothing but Joy dish soap. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 4:00 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines one nearby boat gas fuel explosionyou realize the real dangerearly in my sailing ownerships...had experience leaking gas fuel dripping on water jacked muffler ..noticed when engine shutdown to begin distance race,,fuel smell,,it didnt take long for a crew of 11 to get pails..riggers buckets ,etc,and drown whole engine and hot muffler...auto pumps activated water fuel pumped overboard..left gas spill on water which SAR was happy to clean up...reason for event discovered later fuel tank float rubbed bottom of tank until wore hole in tank bottom...crew really had it together...one half did engine drowning..other half..hung over bow to encourage fwd pumps to engage ..REALLY LUCKY..FUME DETECTER ALSO DEFECTIVEhad manya4s after that with quality fail safe fume detecters...now a hign torque diesel user ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Same here. Extends below the top of the rudder Joel On Monday, July 7, 2014, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Paul, The one on the Enterprise is about 3-4 inches, sticking straight down. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ On Jul 7, 2014, at 2:38 PM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: Thanks Edd. Do you know if the rod should have a bend to it or should it be a straight piece just a few inches in length? Paul - Paul Eugenio 1981 CC Landfall 38 S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL On Jul 7, 2014, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com'); wrote: Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 12:07:07 -0400 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','e...@schillay.com'); To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); Subject: Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube Message-ID: a61277c8-6514-4829-adb3-278b4c90a...@schillay.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','a61277c8-6514-4829-adb3-278b4c90a...@schillay.com'); Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Paul, Yes, there should be a rod coming out of that hull, and you should replace it. It?s purpose is to deflect seaweed and other items from getting caught in your rudder post as you move through the water. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
I'm with Joe here and have been on the receiving end of that lecture many times. If you really want to shut them up quick, ask them how long it has been since they actually check the proper operation of the propane solenoid valve! I don't go on forums and lecture people that they shouldn't have propane stoves and I'm tired of hearing people lecture me about the dangers of a gasoline engines. Millions of boats have been used around the world that are powered by gas engines and there has been an amazingly small number of incidents considering the neglect that many boat operators practice. I usually try to stay out of these discussions because it's impossible to argue against emotion, but I've just finished my first scotch and that is enough to impair my normal discretion. As for Bill's list of advantages, I would argue that my 38 y/o A4 (never rebuilt) should put to rest any debate about life span, I'll give him the better mileage but for my usage it doesn't amount to much of a difference and as for dependability, well, I have 38 y/o A4 that cranks on the first revolution anytime I need it, if it ever fails to do that, I have a small, simple tool kit that can handle almost any issue I'll ever have with it. To his list of disadvantages I would add that diesel fuel stinks to high heaven and permeates everything on the boat, and diesels require a much bigger tool kit and more knowledge than most owners have to work on. Bill, as far as your with all respect lead in That does not excuse an ill-informed, ignorant, and emotion-based answer. A nicely setup A4 with a 2:1 reduction gear is a great engine to power a CC 3/4 tonner. I know that my A4 powers my 15,000 lbs CC 38 quite nicely in all but the most extreme conditions, not to say that I wouldn't enjoy an extra 15 horses occasionally, but I doubt that I will ever consider it worth the cost to switch to diesel. Back to the original question, the reversing gear (transmission) on the A4 is fairly stiff when shifting but what you are feeling is probably some binding in the cable. I think you are on the right track by disconnecting the cable and checking the operation. James S/V Delaney 1976 CC 38 powered by an A4 Oriental, NC - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 2:10 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift We can assume you have no propane stove then? I once got a lecture from a Cabo Rico 38 owner about the dangers of gasoline engines. I noticed he had a propane stove and Clorox bottle full of gasoline for the dinghy stuffed in the engine room! YIKES!!! Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift With all due respect, having watched a power boat blow up, that is and was the primary reason I always wanted diesel. Followed by better mileage, and longer life. And probably more dependable. Unless you have a newer fuel injected gas engine. On the down side, noisier, heavier, and more expensive. Bill Coleman CC 39 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:18 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Gear shift Sounds like your motor is good and healthy. 85 across all four cold is a good number. I love my atomic four. I don't understand why a 30 year old diesel powered boat warrants a higher resale than a 30 year old A4 powered boat. The A4 is a whole lot smoother and quieter than it's 30 year old diesel counterpart. A 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor is a 30 year old motor .. point being, they're all old and they will all need some TLC, diesel or gas. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 11:50 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You should have an oil pressure safety switch installed into the block (or is it oil pan can’t recall) just behind the fuel pump (assuming yours is not bulkhead mounted). Wired between the coil and the fuel pump (with an inline fuse – 5 amp I believe). The safety switch won’t send power to the fuel pump until the oil pressure rises to about 6 psi when the engine is cranked over. This ensures if your engine dies while running or you leave the ignition in on that you don’t continuously pump gas into the carb. Of course these switches fail (mine came to me bypassed, apparently by a ‘professional’ mechanic as the previous owner didn’t do any maintenance on the boat himself) so you should have some means handy to bypass the switch in case it dies at an inopportune time a wire with a couple alligator clips would work. I don’t have a key ... I have an ignition
Re: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines
I'm with you, I once saw a car crash and kill all four passengers- I sold my car and walk everywhere I go now. James S/V Delaney 1976 CC 38 Oriental, NC Sorry for the smart ass reply, but this thread has put me in the mood - Original Message - From: Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:59 PM Subject: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines one nearby boat gas fuel explosionyou realize the real dangerearly in my sailing ownerships...had experience leaking gas fuel dripping on water jacked muffler ..noticed when engine shutdown to begin distance race,,fuel smell,,it didnt take long for a crew of 11 to get pails..riggers buckets ,etc,and drown whole engine and hot muffler...auto pumps activated water fuel pumped overboard..left gas spill on water which SAR was happy to clean up...reason for event discovered later fuel tank float rubbed bottom of tank until wore hole in tank bottom...crew really had it together...one half did engine drowning..other half..hung over bow to encourage fwd pumps to engage ..REALLY LUCKY..FUME DETECTER ALSO DEFECTIVEhad manya4s after that with quality fail safe fume detecters...now a hign torque diesel user -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines
I own my first diesel-powered sailboat after many years of dealing with the headaches and expenses of outboards on smaller sailboats. Safety issues aside, I do have to say I am in awe of diesels. My Yanmar 2GM20F is, hands down, the most reliable and easy-to-maintain engine I have ever encountered on land or water. I hired a guy to spend two hours showing me how to maintain the engine. I’ve been able to do almost everything myself since then. I’ve had one breakdown in five years, at first thought to be the fuel pump, but later found to be a poorly installed vent line on the fuel tank. Contrast that with those @#$%%^ outboards, with impossible-to-reach impellers, tiny cooling channels that always clog, cranky carburetors, spark plugs that foul regularly, etc., and there is no comparison. Never had an A4, but I’ve always been impressed by the comments of their defenders. However, I’m skeptical that they come close to the reliability and performance of diesels. Jack Brennan Former CC 25 Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. From: jtsails via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 7:50 PM To: Jimmy Kelly ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines I'm with you, I once saw a car crash and kill all four passengers- I sold my car and walk everywhere I go now. James S/V Delaney 1976 CC 38 Oriental, NC Sorry for the smart ass reply, but this thread has put me in the mood - Original Message - From: Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:59 PM Subject: Stus-List gas exposions marine engines one nearby boat gas fuel explosionyou realize the real dangerearly in my sailing ownerships...had experience leaking gas fuel dripping on water jacked muffler ..noticed when engine shutdown to begin distance race,,fuel smell,,it didnt take long for a crew of 11 to get pails..riggers buckets ,etc,and drown whole engine and hot muffler...auto pumps activated water fuel pumped overboard..left gas spill on water which SAR was happy to clean up...reason for event discovered later fuel tank float rubbed bottom of tank until wore hole in tank bottom...crew really had it together...one half did engine drowning..other half..hung over bow to encourage fwd pumps to engage ...REALLY LUCKY..FUME DETECTER ALSO DEFECTIVEhad manya4s after that with quality fail safe fume detecters...now a hign torque diesel user -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
Hi Ryan, Keep the 30 to learn and daysail and race. Buy the 42 to cruise with a gang or live aboard. You're young. You can handle both. Easy payments. 2nd tip: Marry rich. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, July 4, 2014 1:59:48 PM Subject: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please! Hi All, I am a new owner of a 1973 CC 30 Mk1. I have fallen in a love with the brand of CC and am really enjoying sailing even though I have only owned the boat a couple months. I am a single 31 year old guy, but I have been thinking a 35-45 footer may have been a better move. There was a 1980 42' foot Landfall sent to me for about the same about of money that I have into my 30 footer! What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my impulsiveness and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a sport/lifestyle/hobby for me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for such a great price is tempting!!! Warm Regards, Ryan S. Beckett Partner Co-Founder 561.301.6337 mobile ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Gear shift
High Skip, I use a rig to run my engine on the hard. It greatly improves confidence (reduces embarrassing moments) when they lift the boat into the water. It is a simple 3' length of hose with a female connection on one end, a ball valve, and a short length of hose that adapts to my raw water intake hose, so it goes through the strainer and the raw water pump and the heat exchanger, so it doubles as a tool for test running the engine before launch in spring and winterizing in the fall. I think every boat should have one. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, July 7, 2014 10:21:18 AM Subject: Stus-List Gear shift Hi All, This may seem to be a very dumb question but the knowledge on this site is just too tempting to resist. I am going through my new-to me 1974 33 3/4tonner with the hope of launching her next weekend. I have the hull in reasonably good condition below the waterline (through hull fittings, bottom paint, running gear, etc.) now it is time to go through the engine and related systems. This boat has an Atomic 4, probably original and it seems to be in pretty good shape for it’s age. Looks like it was well maintained. I have a couple hopefully simple questions. 1. Is there generally an “off” or kill switch other than the ignition key? I have read in other posts about an off switch that is used before turning off the ignition key 2. This motor has an electric fuel pump upgrade and there is no documentation on it. Should I assume it will turn on with the ignition circuit or is there another switch I can’t seem to find? 3. My previous experience with inboard boat transmissions (older power boats) is that they are easy to operate when the motor is not running. Mine is VERY difficult to move. The cable looks like it is not damaged. I will probably end up disconnecting it from the transmission to verify free operation but just curious about these reduction gearing systems. New oil in both engine and reduction gearcase. New fuel. New fuel filters. New spark plugs. Compression check very good (~85lbs with very little variance). I have not started it yet but that is my next step. Now before someone asks why these items were not dealt with during the survey or sea trial…. Those services would have cost almost as much as the boat. I paid very little for the boat and was willing to take the risk. I know the previous owner. He has been and still is at my marina. I have seen the boat in the water and underway. I am an optimist at heart. Skip 1974 CC 33 ¾ tonner Not named yet but leaning toward “Mary Jane” Not as a tribute to my hippy youth. Those are our Mom’s names! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine
That was also my solution. I now have the two original batteries as a bank of house batteries and a third battery that is isolated as a starting battery. The system works very well and has also made managing the batteries much easier. Steve Sharkey Impromptu -Original Message- From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 1:31 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine Yes! I can start my engine all day and none of the boat equipment knows the difference. Joe Della Barba Coquina -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles via CnC-List Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:23 PM To: Eric Frank; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List E7 chartplotter reboots when I start the engine Time to re wire your boat to have an isolated starting battery and a house battery. That will eliminate most of your charging/starting/low voltage problems. Here's my take on it: http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ Rich On Jul 7, 2014, at 13:18, Eric Frank via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: maintains enough voltage to the E7 when the main voltage ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
Consider your slip fees. They go up as the size increases. Every time I prep the bottom of my boat I'm thankful it's only 27 feet. Anti-fouling paint is pricy and you'll more than double the amount needed and 4x the time involved. Substantial upgrades on a 30 vs a 42 are easier. Consider replacing #21 2 speed Barient winches with self trailers for $700 each vs $2000 a piece for the ones for the landfall. Beautiful boat but really make sure you can afford all aspects before jumping in, otherwise you will despise it and never achieve that special love affair we all share. I can't say with any first hand knowledge but I would think riding out a storm on the 42 would be a lot more comfortable than a 30 but as others have said if you are learning how to sail, the smaller boat will make you a better sailor. A well set up 30 can be singlehanded even with a spinnaker but I'm not sure if anyone does any solo kite flying on a LF 42 Whatever you decide you're sailing and that's what counts. Brent Driedger 27-5 Stormy Lake Winnipeg Sent from my iPhone On Jul 7, 2014, at 9:22 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Ryan, Keep the 30 to learn and daysail and race. Buy the 42 to cruise with a gang or live aboard. You're young. You can handle both. Easy payments. 2nd tip: Marry rich. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, July 4, 2014 1:59:48 PM Subject: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please! Hi All, I am a new owner of a 1973 CC 30 Mk1. I have fallen in a love with the brand of CC and am really enjoying sailing even though I have only owned the boat a couple months. I am a single 31 year old guy, but I have been thinking a 35-45 footer may have been a better move. There was a 1980 42' foot Landfall sent to me for about the same about of money that I have into my 30 footer! What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my impulsiveness and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a sport/lifestyle/hobby for me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for such a great price is tempting!!! Warm Regards, Ryan S. Beckett Partner Co-Founder 561.301.6337 mobile ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Bob Perry
Bob Perry impression: I am a big fan of Bob Perry usually while dreaming of boats I can't afford. He admitted several times that his written reviews were based on looking at drawings, not sailing the boats. His reviews in the magazines and the many publications or 20 best boats, etc, were all based on drawings. He did a review of our boat, the CC 34R, said he wished he had designed it, but did the review purely based on his impression of the drawings and the numbers. He has a real talent for critiquing various design details, and is very entertaining and successful producing many publications that way. Gear shift: Once I fell in love with our CC, I made a conscious effort to avoid reviews and just learn to get the most from the boat and give her what was needed to live strong, sail fast, and she has not disappointed. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, July 4, 2014 5:03:18 PM Subject: Stus-List OFF LIST - Talk some sense Very Big Grins - Yeah, it didn't take me long to figure out that Bob Perry was going to say whatever he thought I wanted to hear... But this boat actually does sail well. Wal On 7/4/2014 8:50 PM, coltrek via CnC-List wrote: And in his review of the CC 39, he said THAT was his favorite! But hey, I tell each of my son's in law that the got the pick of the litter! (Bob Perry told me that it's still his favorite) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
Paul - I have a 1.5 inch long metal stud sticking out of the bottom of my hull about six inches in front of the rudder. Somewhere I have a picture, but never put it on a web page. Every time I haul I wonder if I shouldn't just cut it off, but figure what the heck it's not causing a problem so leave it alone. Bottom line: Clean the hole out and fill it. It doesn't go through the hull, obviously, or you wouldn't have time to ask the question. VBG The hull is very thick there (possibly 1.5 or more) and a good vinylester or epoxy resin thickened up, with a little patch of cloth over it will make it go away. Here's what I think: The LF38, with a shoal draft, was originally designed with a different rudder. When I was looking at pictures of them before buying mine, I noticed that some older boats had a shallow rudder that extended forward of the post, so that the post was about five inches behind the leading edge of the rudder. (Just behind the little stud.) It had the same surface area as my rudder, but didn't extend as deep. From a cruising perspective this makes total sense. You don't want to be on the hook or pushing through shallow water with a deep rudder, because in any kind of chop or swell the boat will rock over the keel (I wanted to say hobby-horse, but I've been on boats that hobby-horse) and you don't want to bang the rudder against the bottom. I think that the shallow rudder design didn't work. Perhaps the boat didn't sail as well, or perhaps someone decided that there was no point building a bunch of unique rudders, when there was a darn good rudder for a darn good 38 sitting on the shelf. Personally, I appreciate the big deep rudder on my boat, and I get a lot of lift from it when the boat is trimmed well. It's about six inches shorter than the keel, and I always keep that in mind when crossing a sand bar in wind or swell. I think that the little stud was there to keep things (fishing lines, lady's underwear) from fouling up the rudder/hull joint. That would probably work with a rudder that was only an inch behind the stud, as the offending item would slide down the stud and hit the leading edge of the rudder. I don't think it has much value with the rudder you have, so fill the hole and move on. And, here's where everyone will call me a heretic and burn me at the stake. Once I had to do a spot repair, in three hours, to fix a mistake made by a boatyard worker. My boat was taking on water, and the yard boss was insisting that it was my fault, *SNIP* Okay, I deleted 5000 words because I was getting metaphysical. Plug the hole and go sailing. Wal Paul wrote: I have come across a small pencil-sized hole in my LF38 hull located a few inches forward of the rudder tube. I am not certain of the intent of this hole, but I do recall that on my old 29-1 that it had a short stainless rod coming out of the hull from about the same location(a line diverter?). My guess is that the LF38 had a similar rod which is now missing. I am thinking of filling the hole. Does anyone know what this hole actually is and is there any reason why it should not be filled? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
Just noticed this. No thanks, Chuck! Done that 3 times. Rich On Jul 7, 2014, at 23:22, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Ryan, Keep the 30 to learn and daysail and race. Buy the 42 to cruise with a gang or live aboard. You're young. You can handle both. Easy payments. 2nd tip: Marry rich. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
