Stus-List Annapolis
Coquina en route Annapolis Sent from my iPhone On May 22, 2015, at 8:15, Stelios via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Menemsha is lovely bring your camera! The vacation place of Obama. Also on the breakwater you may see gigantic fat naked short-haired lesbians with large tattoos basking on the rocks attempting to mate. Avert your eyes! Or not as your preference may be. Stelios On May 22, 2015, at 08:02, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have cruised Buzzards Bay, the Islands and Narraganset fairly extensively over the years. Great suggestions from Damian. I would add my favorites... Quissett : beautiful little harbor north east of Woods Hole. Long walk or trolley bus to Woods Hole Hadley Harbor: opposite Woods Hole - no landing on islands but really peaceful place to anchor or pick up free moorings if available Menemsha: call early in the morning to make a mooring reservation. Very limited but the do allow up to three maybe four boats on each of the moorings inside. Coecles Harbor (east side of Shelter Island). Channel narrow and not a lot of depth - go in / out on a rising tide!! But once in, several options. I generally anchor on the left side going in. -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 22, 2015, at 06:49, Damian Greene via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Dan, I used to be based in Westbrook CT, so here are my recommendations for Eastern Long Island Sound. This is based on several summer cruises on our CC 34 with wife and two younger teenagers. Westbrook - slip at Brewer's. Huge full-service yard. Pool, showers, restaurant (expensive). Gas BBQ grills and picnic tables at the head of each dock. There is a picnic area at the channel entrance with gas grills, picnic tables, and a clubhouse with kitchen facilities and a TV room. Great spot to hang out in the evening and watch the boat traffic. That was our regular hangout. Mystic - slip at Brewer's. On the right, just before the railroad bridge. Easy dinghy ride to the town dock. Decent swimming pool. Be careful to stay in the channel, and do NOT try to cut left of the rockpile at the entrance to Noank (you'll see what I mean - there's a confusing dogleg). Get ice-cream at the store by the lifting bridge. Of course the Seaport Museum. In general, any Brewer's yard along LIS is a good stopover. Shelter Island - good moorings at Piccozzi's Dering Harbor Marina. Decent showers. Nice small town with decent bars and restaurants. Explore the island by bike - rentals at Piccozzi's garage. Fun trip in through Plum Gut. Newport - we would stay at Dutch Harbor. Moorings for rent, launch service, showers and laundry. Walk to foodstore and restaurants. Harbor shuttle across to Newport. More peaceful than craziness of Newport. Martha's Vineyard - we were disappointed with available moorings. The best we found were in Vineyard Haven. Services not great, and serious wakes from car-ferries. Still, the Vineyard is a must-see. Rent a Jeep. Go to the Jaws locations. Block Island - Great Salt Pond. Rather than scramble for town moorings, we would book a slip at Champlin's Marina. In reality, you're likely rafted, and it gets very congested with powerboats at weekends. Still, it is a fun experience. Decent pool, bars, takeout pizza, cinema (for kids), all without leaving the marina. And then of course there's Block to explore! Rent bikes. Great beaches. Cuttyhunk is our favorite destination. If you get there on time, there are town moorings in the inner harbor. Otherwise, plenty of moorings available outside, but with more wave action. Beautiful island. No cars, one small restaurant, boat goes around each evening selling fresh shellfish and lobsters. Great beaches (at harbor entrance, and over the bar at the far side). Channel can be tricky, so be careful. Last time we were there, we watched another sailboat solidly aground on a falling tide. No fun. Cape Cod Canal is a beautiful ride. Make sure to time your transits with the tides. Some serious wave action on the southern entrance - you'll be surfing in, then it gets flat. Sandwich Marina is a decent stop at the northern exit from the CCC. showers, food-store nearby, decent restaurants. Feel free to discuss more offline. damian.gre...@yahoo.com Damian Greene CC 34 GHOST Bass Harbor, Maine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Background Not Included
http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/50463 Impressive interior. With the demise of SLR photography, I get visually confused by many sailboat photos that have boat(s) in the background. (e.g. Is that a three-masted ketch?) I initially thought that this was some sort of mega-sailboat with a trawler superstructure on the foredeck. Not exactly a foredeck cow, but confusing nonetheless. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
I had a similar problem 3 seasons ago.It was bad or corroded connections and wiring.35 years is pretty good, but everything needs replacing eventually.I replaced all the major electrical lines around the batteries, main switch and engine with pre made auto lines from Canadian Tire (maybe Autozone in the US). Cost was about $65 CDN for my 26No more problems since. sam:-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake AlbertaFrom: Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: Friday, May 22, 2015 7:58 AMTo: CnClistReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dennis C.Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting problemsJust a caution, a check of voltage or resistance is only a part of the puzzle. If the connection(s) on one or both ends are corroded, it may still pass a small amount of current to show voltage but may not pass enough current to support the user, i.e. pump or starter, etc.Connections must be clean to pass current.Dennis C.On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 8:00 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:Derek,Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and check each connection.Could also be your starter solenoid.Good luck.All the best,Edd---Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseNCC-1701-BCC 37+ | City Island, NYwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.332.4400 | Office914.774.9767 | Mobile---Sent via iPhone 6iPhone. iTypos. iApologizeOn May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in advanceDerek Kennedy TortugaCC 30 mk1 Ballantyne’s Cove, NS ___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
Hi Derek, My 2QM20 might be a similar vintage to your engine. Mine has a fuse near the back of the head, port side, that has a connection which often comes loose. The symptoms shown have been no idiot light at panel or lights okay but no starter power. So far I've cured by wiggle action but one of these days I know that isn't going to work anymore. It really needs new connections, no spring left to grip the spade. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 05:32 AM 22/05/2015, you wrote: Iâm having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didnât solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. Iâm unskilled at tracing problems, so thought Iâd ask for help. Thanks in advance Derek Kennedy Tortuga CC 30 mk1 Ballantyneâs Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
Thanks, Russ! Yep, it’s all over. Money in the bank and some already spent. Not sure what’s next. We’ll see. Meantime, I’m hanging out here unless I’m kicked off. Cheers Rich Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On May 22, 2015, at 22:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Rich, Best wishes on the second or third happiest day of your life. (Wedding days are currently under discussion at the institute.) Can we assume the sale is final? Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote: Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and wear set in. Iâve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be severed and rejoined as needed. Iâm not sure that this is the root of your problems but itâs a good place to start. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and wear set in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be severed and rejoined as needed. I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place to start. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless. On May 22, 2015, at 06:00, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Derek, Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and check each connection. Could also be your starter solenoid. Good luck. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com http://www.starshipsailing.com/ --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 6 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in advance Derek Kennedy Tortuga CC 30 mk1 Ballantyne’s Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
Boatless eh, Rich? Sad state to be in. And I should know! Congrats on the sale. David On 23 May 2015 at 15:30, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks, Russ! Yep, it’s all over. Money in the bank and some already spent. Not sure what’s next. We’ll see. Meantime, I’m hanging out here unless I’m kicked off. Cheers Rich Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On May 22, 2015, at 22:24, Russ Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Rich, Best wishes on the second or third happiest day of your life. (Wedding days are currently under discussion at the institute.) Can we assume the sale is final? Cheers, Russ *Sweet *35 mk-1 At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote: Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and wear set in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be severed and rejoined as needed. I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place to start. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
Hi Rich, Best wishes on the second or third happiest day of your life. (Wedding days are currently under discussion at the institute.) Can we assume the sale is final? Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote: Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and wear set in. Iâve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be severed and rejoined as needed. Iâm not sure that this is the root of your problems but itâs a good place to start. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
That looks pretty much the same as I found on Windburn. I used 2 white oak for two of the girders ( stringers ? ) and 1.5 for the center girder. The challenge was cutting the oak to match the curve of the bilge, which was different on the two sides. Further, the sides did not run parallel bow to stern. I did smooth the worst of the bumps down with a grinder and applied a coating of resin to re-seal everything. I see from your picture #9 it was the same for Admiral Maggie. The area just in front on the foremost keel bolt appeared to be the lowest point in the bilge. A bit of resin was poured in their to level it, and a remote pickup installed for a Whale Gulper 320. Getting the height right was also a process. I assumed the original supports had settled a bit and there is not much square in the boat to compare to. The top surface of the aluminum casting the mast sits on is not the same thickness front to back, and the bottom of the mast is not square. No idea if all of that was by design. I also installed two 4 x 1/4 thick aluminum angle pieces, bolted horizontally through the front and rear girders. They were drilled and tapped to hold the machine screws coming down from the mast step. Was your block screwed down directly into the girders? Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 21 May 2015 17:10:27 -0400 From: Aaron Rouhi admiralmag...@outlook.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 Message-ID: bay179-w44f5e244aa918e2f4a0063a2...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hey Nate,Here are some pictures from when I replaced my mast step few years back. The stringers were so rotted that I was able to remove them pretty much by hand! It was not pretty... I replaced them with 5 new stringers made out of 8/4 mahogany. Make sure you mark up the height of your oak block so you can match it. This is also a good time to installed a bilge pump pickup hose in front of the mast (lowest part of the bilge). Doing that will keep your bilge dry... Pictures are here: http://imgur.com/a/SOWx6 Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 CC 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 11:12:16 -0500 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: nateflesn...@gmail.com I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck) and want toforestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengtheningit now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast step base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice welcome, pictures very welcome. I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access, then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty area with micro-balloon slurry? She's an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year, which may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet. Nate FlesnessSarah Jean1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage
Maybe 6 knots. Usually 4.5-5 But yes no sense fighting it It is the East River and LIS junction (not Hudson) Jersey Shore the people are to be more feared than the weather. Beware the 'Snookie' On May 21, 2015, at 23:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Sounds like tou plan to come through Hells Gates where the Hudson River meets Long Island Sound. The currents there can be upwards of 8 knots! Be very aware of the weather while passing the Jersey Shore. It can get pretty nautical. Josh On May 21, 2015 11:43 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'm taking Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back, leaving June 5. Itinerary is Baltimore, Cape May, Block Island, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, Provincetown, Bowston, Woods Hole, Mystic, New Haven, New York City, Lower Jersey Shore, Ocean City Md, and then back to Baltimore. Got 4 weeks to do it, and crew joining and leaving at various places along the way. Any recommendations as to anchorages, marinas, where I need reservations, things to do, places to go, people to see, are very welcome. Also welcome - things not to do, places not to go, people not to see, etc. Thanks Dan Sheer Pegathy LF 38 Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage
I have cruised Buzzards Bay, the Islands and Narraganset fairly extensively over the years. Great suggestions from Damian. I would add my favorites... Quissett : beautiful little harbor north east of Woods Hole. Long walk or trolley bus to Woods Hole Hadley Harbor: opposite Woods Hole - no landing on islands but really peaceful place to anchor or pick up free moorings if available Menemsha: call early in the morning to make a mooring reservation. Very limited but the do allow up to three maybe four boats on each of the moorings inside. Coecles Harbor (east side of Shelter Island). Channel narrow and not a lot of depth - go in / out on a rising tide!! But once in, several options. I generally anchor on the left side going in. -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 22, 2015, at 06:49, Damian Greene via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Dan, I used to be based in Westbrook CT, so here are my recommendations for Eastern Long Island Sound. This is based on several summer cruises on our CC 34 with wife and two younger teenagers. Westbrook - slip at Brewer's. Huge full-service yard. Pool, showers, restaurant (expensive). Gas BBQ grills and picnic tables at the head of each dock. There is a picnic area at the channel entrance with gas grills, picnic tables, and a clubhouse with kitchen facilities and a TV room. Great spot to hang out in the evening and watch the boat traffic. That was our regular hangout. Mystic - slip at Brewer's. On the right, just before the railroad bridge. Easy dinghy ride to the town dock. Decent swimming pool. Be careful to stay in the channel, and do NOT try to cut left of the rockpile at the entrance to Noank (you'll see what I mean - there's a confusing dogleg). Get ice-cream at the store by the lifting bridge. Of course the Seaport Museum. In general, any Brewer's yard along LIS is a good stopover. Shelter Island - good moorings at Piccozzi's Dering Harbor Marina. Decent showers. Nice small town with decent bars and restaurants. Explore the island by bike - rentals at Piccozzi's garage. Fun trip in through Plum Gut. Newport - we would stay at Dutch Harbor. Moorings for rent, launch service, showers and laundry. Walk to foodstore and restaurants. Harbor shuttle across to Newport. More peaceful than craziness of Newport. Martha's Vineyard - we were disappointed with available moorings. The best we found were in Vineyard Haven. Services not great, and serious wakes from car-ferries. Still, the Vineyard is a must-see. Rent a Jeep. Go to the Jaws locations. Block Island - Great Salt Pond. Rather than scramble for town moorings, we would book a slip at Champlin's Marina. In reality, you're likely rafted, and it gets very congested with powerboats at weekends. Still, it is a fun experience. Decent pool, bars, takeout pizza, cinema (for kids), all without leaving the marina. And then of course there's Block to explore! Rent bikes. Great beaches. Cuttyhunk is our favorite destination. If you get there on time, there are town moorings in the inner harbor. Otherwise, plenty of moorings available outside, but with more wave action. Beautiful island. No cars, one small restaurant, boat goes around each evening selling fresh shellfish and lobsters. Great beaches (at harbor entrance, and over the bar at the far side). Channel can be tricky, so be careful. Last time we were there, we watched another sailboat solidly aground on a falling tide. No fun. Cape Cod Canal is a beautiful ride. Make sure to time your transits with the tides. Some serious wave action on the southern entrance - you'll be surfing in, then it gets flat. Sandwich Marina is a decent stop at the northern exit from the CCC. showers, food-store nearby, decent restaurants. Feel free to discuss more offline. damian.gre...@yahoo.com Damian Greene CC 34 GHOST Bass Harbor, Maine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage
My only suggestion running around cape cod and the neighbouring islands is to have your tide and pilot book and try to time your passages with the currents. They run up to 3 knots and can really slow your progress. If you go through the canal the current can run up to 6 knots. Danny From my Android phone Original message From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 05/21/2015 11:43 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Daniel Sheer dansh...@yahoo.com Subject: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage I'm taking Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back, leaving June 5. Itinerary is Baltimore, Cape May, Block Island, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, Provincetown, Bowston, Woods Hole, Mystic, New Haven, New York City, Lower Jersey Shore, Ocean City Md, and then back to Baltimore. Got 4 weeks to do it, and crew joining and leaving at various places along the way. Any recommendations as to anchorages, marinas, where I need reservations, things to do, places to go, people to see, are very welcome. Also welcome - things not to do, places not to go, people not to see, etc. Thanks Dan Sheer Pegathy LF 38 Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
Derek, Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and check each connection. Could also be your starter solenoid. Good luck. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 6 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in advance Derek Kennedy Tortuga CC 30 mk1 Ballantyne’s Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump
David: If there is no anti-siphon loop in your bilge pump exit line, it is very possible to have the water from the transom thru hull run back into the bilge. A fellow club member with a CC 41 was doing an offshore voyage, when around 2:00 a.m. with a following sea, he or one of the crew noticed the bilge filling with sea water.turns out there was no 'loop' in his exit line .he said it was a very scary situation until they discovered the problem. I removed the check valve from my electric bilge pumpI found the smallest particles running through it caused it to not function properlymaybe just an inferior valve, however, I don't miss it. Rob Abbot AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-05-22 10:12 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: We had a discussion a few years back about whether or not to have a check valve on the bilge pump outlet hose and as a result, I removed the valve from mine. All has been fine since. Yesterday, while motoring for a long ways down the river, I noticed that the bilge was filling with water. I pumped it out and the water immediately returned. I pulled the pump out of the bilge, and water was pouring into the bilge through the pump. When I lifted it, the flow stopped so it seemed to be siphoning/flowing through the bilge pump exit line, which is in the transom and when motoring, looks to be under water. I have not checked yet to see if there is an anti-siphon loop. I am guessing that this is one of the functions of the one way valve that was there before, but I can’t figure out why it never happened before. The Whale 500 pump does not specifically say it has a check valve, but perhaps it does and it stopped working? I had an oil spill into the bilge last winter and so maybe that is causing problems. I plan to reinstall a check valve in the line so this does not happen again. Any other thoughts? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List A-4 zincs
I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade folding prop.. lots of patience. I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the boat but it is pretty beat up. Burt 1974 CC 33-3 quarter tonner On the hard in the back yard Walpole, MA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
Derek, I had a similar problem starting this season, found it was a loose ground wire on the alternator bracket. I had taken the alternator off when I was changing the pencil zincs in my 2qm20. There are some really smart guys on the list, with lots of good information. I was lucky I didn't have to chase my problem too deep. Chuck CC 34 Elusive Somerset, MA On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 9:00 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Derek, Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and check each connection. Could also be your starter solenoid. Good luck. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 6 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in advance Derek Kennedy Tortuga CC 30 mk1 Ballantyne’s Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
Just a caution, a check of voltage or resistance is only a part of the puzzle. If the connection(s) on one or both ends are corroded, it may still pass a small amount of current to show voltage but may not pass enough current to support the user, i.e. pump or starter, etc. Connections must be clean to pass current. Dennis C. On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 8:00 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Derek, Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and check each connection. Could also be your starter solenoid. Good luck. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 6 iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in advance Derek Kennedy Tortuga CC 30 mk1 Ballantyne’s Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage
Menemsha is lovely bring your camera! The vacation place of Obama. Also on the breakwater you may see gigantic fat naked short-haired lesbians with large tattoos basking on the rocks attempting to mate. Avert your eyes! Or not as your preference may be. Stelios On May 22, 2015, at 08:02, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have cruised Buzzards Bay, the Islands and Narraganset fairly extensively over the years. Great suggestions from Damian. I would add my favorites... Quissett : beautiful little harbor north east of Woods Hole. Long walk or trolley bus to Woods Hole Hadley Harbor: opposite Woods Hole - no landing on islands but really peaceful place to anchor or pick up free moorings if available Menemsha: call early in the morning to make a mooring reservation. Very limited but the do allow up to three maybe four boats on each of the moorings inside. Coecles Harbor (east side of Shelter Island). Channel narrow and not a lot of depth - go in / out on a rising tide!! But once in, several options. I generally anchor on the left side going in. -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On May 22, 2015, at 06:49, Damian Greene via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Dan, I used to be based in Westbrook CT, so here are my recommendations for Eastern Long Island Sound. This is based on several summer cruises on our CC 34 with wife and two younger teenagers. Westbrook - slip at Brewer's. Huge full-service yard. Pool, showers, restaurant (expensive). Gas BBQ grills and picnic tables at the head of each dock. There is a picnic area at the channel entrance with gas grills, picnic tables, and a clubhouse with kitchen facilities and a TV room. Great spot to hang out in the evening and watch the boat traffic. That was our regular hangout. Mystic - slip at Brewer's. On the right, just before the railroad bridge. Easy dinghy ride to the town dock. Decent swimming pool. Be careful to stay in the channel, and do NOT try to cut left of the rockpile at the entrance to Noank (you'll see what I mean - there's a confusing dogleg). Get ice-cream at the store by the lifting bridge. Of course the Seaport Museum. In general, any Brewer's yard along LIS is a good stopover. Shelter Island - good moorings at Piccozzi's Dering Harbor Marina. Decent showers. Nice small town with decent bars and restaurants. Explore the island by bike - rentals at Piccozzi's garage. Fun trip in through Plum Gut. Newport - we would stay at Dutch Harbor. Moorings for rent, launch service, showers and laundry. Walk to foodstore and restaurants. Harbor shuttle across to Newport. More peaceful than craziness of Newport. Martha's Vineyard - we were disappointed with available moorings. The best we found were in Vineyard Haven. Services not great, and serious wakes from car-ferries. Still, the Vineyard is a must-see. Rent a Jeep. Go to the Jaws locations. Block Island - Great Salt Pond. Rather than scramble for town moorings, we would book a slip at Champlin's Marina. In reality, you're likely rafted, and it gets very congested with powerboats at weekends. Still, it is a fun experience. Decent pool, bars, takeout pizza, cinema (for kids), all without leaving the marina. And then of course there's Block to explore! Rent bikes. Great beaches. Cuttyhunk is our favorite destination. If you get there on time, there are town moorings in the inner harbor. Otherwise, plenty of moorings available outside, but with more wave action. Beautiful island. No cars, one small restaurant, boat goes around each evening selling fresh shellfish and lobsters. Great beaches (at harbor entrance, and over the bar at the far side). Channel can be tricky, so be careful. Last time we were there, we watched another sailboat solidly aground on a falling tide. No fun. Cape Cod Canal is a beautiful ride. Make sure to time your transits with the tides. Some serious wave action on the southern entrance - you'll be surfing in, then it gets flat. Sandwich Marina is a decent stop at the northern exit from the CCC. showers, food-store nearby, decent restaurants. Feel free to discuss more offline. damian.gre...@yahoo.com Damian Greene CC 34 GHOST Bass Harbor, Maine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
Stus-List Starting problems
I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in advance Derek Kennedy Tortuga CC 30 mk1 Ballantyne’s Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump
We had a discussion a few years back about whether or not to have a check valve on the bilge pump outlet hose and as a result, I removed the valve from mine. All has been fine since. Yesterday, while motoring for a long ways down the river, I noticed that the bilge was filling with water. I pumped it out and the water immediately returned. I pulled the pump out of the bilge, and water was pouring into the bilge through the pump. When I lifted it, the flow stopped so it seemed to be siphoning/flowing through the bilge pump exit line, which is in the transom and when motoring, looks to be under water. I have not checked yet to see if there is an anti-siphon loop. I am guessing that this is one of the functions of the one way valve that was there before, but I can’t figure out why it never happened before. The Whale 500 pump does not specifically say it has a check valve, but perhaps it does and it stopped working? I had an oil spill into the bilge last winter and so maybe that is causing problems. I plan to reinstall a check valve in the line so this does not happen again. Any other thoughts? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs
The A4 has no zincs unless FWC Sent from my iPhone On May 22, 2015, at 10:30, Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Burt, Moyer Marine has a service and repair manual they sell for about $50. It's worth it. I'd also recommend a fresh water cooling kit to stop any more salt water running through your engine. You can run a hotter thermostat to run the engine at a better temp. Moyer sells a kit that adapts a pulley wheel to the front of the engine to run a mechanical pump and Indigo marine sells a kit with electric pumps if you don't have the room on the front of the engine for the pulley. I installed the idigo kit with 2 electric pumps. I plumbed it so if the running pump failed all I'd have to do is redirect flow with a diverter valve and install a fuse to run on the spare pump. It was Tom Steven's idea from Indigo. I don't have an answer for you on the zincs though. Moyer forums are great resource as well. As far as backing down or running in reverse, If you have the 1:1 ratio in forward and 2:1 ratio in reverse set up, you rev the heck out of it in reverse to get the same spin as in forward. My boat had a Michigan Wheel Blue Dot 2-blade folding prop and it went like a banshee in reverse but, I ran really high in the RPMs to do so. It was even common practice to spin it up in reverse to open the prop and then pop into forward. It worked well but it but a lot of stress on the drive train. I ended up putting a the 3-blade prop on from indigo. It gave me better RPMs in forward and I still had the rev the heck out of in reverse. Nice prop and more kind to the drive train. It did add some drag though but I don't race so I didn't care. Still saw speeds in the 7s Hope some of this is helpful... Danny, Still shopping in Massachusetts -- Original Message -- From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Burt Stratton bstrat...@falconnect.com Subject: Stus-List A-4 zincs Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 10:11:37 -0400 I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade folding prop…. lots of patience. I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the boat but it is pretty beat up. Burt 1974 CC 33-3 quarter tonner On the hard in the back yard Walpole, MA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1
I used over sized lag screws to bold them down to stringers. I like your taped aluminum angle bar better though... Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 CC 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 07:35:27 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: m...@tkg.ca That looks pretty much the same as I found on Windburn. I used 2 white oak for two of the girders ( stringers ? ) and 1.5 for the center girder. The challenge was cutting the oak to match the curve of the bilge, which was different on the two sides. Further, the sides did not run parallel bow to stern. I did smooth the worst of the bumps down with a grinder and applied a coating of resin to re-seal everything. I see from your picture #9 it was the same for Admiral Maggie. The area just in front on the foremost keel bolt appeared to be the lowest point in the bilge. A bit of resin was poured in their to level it, and a remote pickup installed for a Whale Gulper 320. Getting the height right was also a process. I assumed the original supports had settled a bit and there is not much square in the boat to compare to. The top surface of the aluminum casting the mast sits on is not the same thickness front to back, and the bottom of the mast is not square. No idea if all of that was by design. I also installed two 4 x 1/4 thick aluminum angle pieces, bolted horizontally through the front and rear girders. They were drilled and tapped to hold the machine screws coming down from the mast step. Was your block screwed down directly into the girders? Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Thu, 21 May 2015 17:10:27 -0400 From: Aaron Rouhi admiralmag...@outlook.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 Message-ID: bay179-w44f5e244aa918e2f4a0063a2...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hey Nate,Here are some pictures from when I replaced my mast step few years back. The stringers were so rotted that I was able to remove them pretty much by hand! It was not pretty... I replaced them with 5 new stringers made out of 8/4 mahogany. Make sure you mark up the height of your oak block so you can match it. This is also a good time to installed a bilge pump pickup hose in front of the mast (lowest part of the bilge). Doing that will keep your bilge dry... Pictures are here: http://imgur.com/a/SOWx6 Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 CC 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 11:12:16 -0500 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List mast step redo on a 30-1 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: nateflesn...@gmail.com I'll soon have the mast out of my 1980 30-1 (for relocating her by truck) and want toforestall future mast step issues by redoing/strengtheningit now. The mast was last out 8 years ago. I've never pulled the oak mast step base plate, so don't know what to anticipate underneath. Advice welcome, pictures very welcome. I'm imagining figuring out the necessary drainage and keel bolt access, then using epoxy-saturated oak board or McMaster Carr fiberglass sheets to built a new support step, and maybe filling in what I hear is a large empty area with micro-balloon slurry? She's an all-freshwater boat which sits in a cradle 7 months a year, which may be why its lasted this long with no signs of trouble yet. Nate FlesnessSarah Jean1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay MarinaLake Superior ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs
Really? That is surprising. Danny, I flush the engine after each use with fresh water. PO did, too. I think that helps a lot. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 10:46 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joe Della Barba Subject: Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs The A4 has no zincs unless FWC Sent from my iPhone On May 22, 2015, at 10:30, Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Burt, Moyer Marine has a service and repair manual they sell for about $50. It's worth it. I'd also recommend a fresh water cooling kit to stop any more salt water running through your engine. You can run a hotter thermostat to run the engine at a better temp. Moyer sells a kit that adapts a pulley wheel to the front of the engine to run a mechanical pump and Indigo marine sells a kit with electric pumps if you don't have the room on the front of the engine for the pulley. I installed the idigo kit with 2 electric pumps. I plumbed it so if the running pump failed all I'd have to do is redirect flow with a diverter valve and install a fuse to run on the spare pump. It was Tom Steven's idea from Indigo. I don't have an answer for you on the zincs though. Moyer forums are great resource as well. As far as backing down or running in reverse, If you have the 1:1 ratio in forward and 2:1 ratio in reverse set up, you rev the heck out of it in reverse to get the same spin as in forward. My boat had a Michigan Wheel Blue Dot 2-blade folding prop and it went like a banshee in reverse but, I ran really high in the RPMs to do so. It was even common practice to spin it up in reverse to open the prop and then pop into forward. It worked well but it but a lot of stress on the drive train. I ended up putting a the 3-blade prop on from indigo. It gave me better RPMs in forward and I still had the rev the heck out of in reverse. Nice prop and more kind to the drive train. It did add some drag though but I don't race so I didn't care. Still saw speeds in the 7s Hope some of this is helpful... Danny, Still shopping in Massachusetts -- Original Message -- From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Burt Stratton bstrat...@falconnect.com Subject: Stus-List A-4 zincs Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 10:11:37 -0400 I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade folding prop…. lots of patience. I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the boat but it is pretty beat up. Burt 1974 CC 33-3 quarter tonner On the hard in the back yard Walpole, MA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
I was also going to suggest a bad ground at the engine. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On May 22, 2015, at 8:07 AM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Derek, I had a similar problem starting this season, found it was a loose ground wire on the alternator bracket. I had taken the alternator off when I was changing the pencil zincs in my 2qm20. There are some really smart guys on the list, with lots of good information. I was lucky I didn't have to chase my problem too deep. Chuck CC 34 Elusive Somerset, MA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rock Hall Approach
Thanks... I'm coming from the south so I'll be going around the sand bar... Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 CC 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 03:37:07 + To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Rock Hall Approach From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: dansh...@yahoo.com Pegathy takes 5'. I have run across the bar using the line formed by the Brewerton Channel East range lights several times in the last few years, and, per the charts, have never had less than 1.5 feet under the keel. I'd do it again anytime except low tide or in strong winds. Even going slowly the shortcut has saved me much time coming from the Patapsco. This is, of course, no guarantee you'll make it. I have been keeping just south of the range line. The lights are easy to line up. If you have any doubts after looking at the charts, go the long way. And, if you do choose to cross the bar, do it under power and do it slowly. That's my experience, not a recommendation. Dan SheerPegathyLF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List A-4 zincs
Hi Burt, Moyer Marine has a service and repair manual they sell for about $50. It's worth it. I'd also recommend a fresh water cooling kit to stop any more salt water running through your engine. You can run a hotter thermostat to run the engine at a better temp. Moyer sells a kit that adapts a pulley wheel to the front of the engine to run a mechanical pump and Indigo marine sells a kit with electric pumps if you don't have the room on the front of the engine for the pulley. I installed the idigo kit with 2 electric pumps. I plumbed it so if the running pump failed all I'd have to do is redirect flow with a diverter valve and install a fuse to run on the spare pump. It was Tom Steven's idea from Indigo. I don't have an answer for you on the zincs though. Moyer forums are great resource as well. As far as backing down or running in reverse, If you have the 1:1 ratio in forward and 2:1 ratio in reverse set up, you rev the heck out of it in reverse to get the same spin as in forward. My boat had a Michigan Wheel Blue Dot 2-blade folding prop and it went like a banshee in reverse but, I ran really high in the RPMs to do so. It was even common practice to spin it up in reverse to open the prop and then pop into forward. It worked well but it but a lot of stress on the drive train. I ended up putting a the 3-blade prop on from indigo. It gave me better RPMs in forward and I still had the rev the heck out of in reverse. Nice prop and more kind to the drive train. It did add some drag though but I don't race so I didn't care. Still saw speeds in the 7s Hope some of this is helpful... Danny,Still shopping in Massachusetts -- Original Message -- From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Burt Stratton bstrat...@falconnect.com Subject: Stus-List A-4 zincs Date: Fri, 22 May 2015 10:11:37 -0400 I am new to the ownership of an Atomic 4. So far it has been a very pleasant experience. I am reasonably sure it is original to the boat. It has a couple upgrades like electric fuel pump and electronic ignition (no points). Ran great through a short season last year. No issues of any kind. Just needed to figure out how to stop the boat and back her down with a two blade folding prophellip;. lots of patience. I do need to find and replace all the zincs, though. It is a raw water cooled motor and no water heater in the cooling loop. Is there a document available that will identify where I might find zincs on this motor? Maybe an owners manual or service manual on line? I have an owners manual on the boat but it is pretty beat up. Burt 1974 CC 33-3 quarter tonner On the hard in the back yard Walpole, MA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump
If I were you , I would install an anti-siphon loop first and then think of the check valve. Most of us don’t sail in really heavy weather conditions, so this may not apply, but I read somewhere about an issue of flooding the engine with water (hydrolock) by the following seas. The guy ended up installing a manual cut-off valve on the exit of his exhaust to prevent it. I guess this would make sense only if you are making long enough passages. Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa From: David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 9:12 AM To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump We had a discussion a few years back about whether or not to have a check valve on the bilge pump outlet hose and as a result, I removed the valve from mine. All has been fine since. Yesterday, while motoring for a long ways down the river, I noticed that the bilge was filling with water. I pumped it out and the water immediately returned. I pulled the pump out of the bilge, and water was pouring into the bilge through the pump. When I lifted it, the flow stopped so it seemed to be siphoning/flowing through the bilge pump exit line, which is in the transom and when motoring, looks to be under water. I have not checked yet to see if there is an anti-siphon loop. I am guessing that this is one of the functions of the one way valve that was there before, but I can’t figure out why it never happened before. The Whale 500 pump does not specifically say it has a check valve, but perhaps it does and it stopped working? I had an oil spill into the bilge last winter and so maybe that is causing problems. I plan to reinstall a check valve in the line so this does not happen again. Any other thoughts? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump
(Some) power boats use good scuppers. Their exhaust outlets are usually very close to the water line. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 12:01 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump If I were you , I would install an anti-siphon loop first and then think of the check valve. Most of us don't sail in really heavy weather conditions, so this may not apply, but I read somewhere about an issue of flooding the engine with water (hydrolock) by the following seas. The guy ended up installing a manual cut-off valve on the exit of his exhaust to prevent it. I guess this would make sense only if you are making long enough passages. Marek 1994 C270 Legato Ottawa From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, May 22, 2015 9:12 AM To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump We had a discussion a few years back about whether or not to have a check valve on the bilge pump outlet hose and as a result, I removed the valve from mine. All has been fine since. Yesterday, while motoring for a long ways down the river, I noticed that the bilge was filling with water. I pumped it out and the water immediately returned. I pulled the pump out of the bilge, and water was pouring into the bilge through the pump. When I lifted it, the flow stopped so it seemed to be siphoning/flowing through the bilge pump exit line, which is in the transom and when motoring, looks to be under water. I have not checked yet to see if there is an anti-siphon loop. I am guessing that this is one of the functions of the one way valve that was there before, but I can't figure out why it never happened before. The Whale 500 pump does not specifically say it has a check valve, but perhaps it does and it stopped working? I had an oil spill into the bilge last winter and so maybe that is causing problems. I plan to reinstall a check valve in the line so this does not happen again. Any other thoughts? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT _ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump
They also have exhaust risers to keep water flowing out. Joel On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 12:19 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: (Some) power boats use good scuppers. Their exhaust outlets are usually very close to the water line. *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List *Sent:* Friday, May 22, 2015 12:01 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Marek Dziedzic *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump If I were you , I would install an anti-siphon loop first and then think of the check valve. Most of us don’t sail in really heavy weather conditions, so this may not apply, but I read somewhere about an issue of flooding the engine with water (hydrolock) by the following seas. The guy ended up installing a manual cut-off valve on the exit of his exhaust to prevent it. I guess this would make sense only if you are making long enough passages. Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Friday, May 22, 2015 9:12 AM *To:* CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com *Cc:* David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com *Subject:* Stus-List Check valve on bilge pump We had a discussion a few years back about whether or not to have a check valve on the bilge pump outlet hose and as a result, I removed the valve from mine. All has been fine since. Yesterday, while motoring for a long ways down the river, I noticed that the bilge was filling with water. I pumped it out and the water immediately returned. I pulled the pump out of the bilge, and water was pouring into the bilge through the pump. When I lifted it, the flow stopped so it seemed to be siphoning/flowing through the bilge pump exit line, which is in the transom and when motoring, looks to be under water. I have not checked yet to see if there is an anti-siphon loop. I am guessing that this is one of the functions of the one way valve that was there before, but I can’t figure out why it never happened before. The Whale 500 pump does not specifically say it has a check valve, but perhaps it does and it stopped working? I had an oil spill into the bilge last winter and so maybe that is causing problems. I plan to reinstall a check valve in the line so this does not happen again. Any other thoughts? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage
Dan, I used to be based in Westbrook CT, so here are my recommendations for Eastern Long Island Sound. This is based on several summer cruises on our CC 34 with wife and two younger teenagers. Westbrook - slip at Brewer's. Huge full-service yard. Pool, showers, restaurant (expensive). Gas BBQ grills and picnic tables at the head of each dock. There is a picnic area at the channel entrance with gas grills, picnic tables, and a clubhouse with kitchen facilities and a TV room. Great spot to hang out in the evening and watch the boat traffic. That was our regular hangout. Mystic - slip at Brewer's. On the right, just before the railroad bridge. Easy dinghy ride to the town dock. Decent swimming pool. Be careful to stay in the channel, and do NOT try to cut left of the rockpile at the entrance to Noank (you'll see what I mean - there's a confusing dogleg). Get ice-cream at the store by the lifting bridge. Of course the Seaport Museum. In general, any Brewer's yard along LIS is a good stopover. Shelter Island - good moorings at Piccozzi's Dering Harbor Marina. Decent showers. Nice small town with decent bars and restaurants. Explore the island by bike - rentals at Piccozzi's garage. Fun trip in through Plum Gut. Newport - we would stay at Dutch Harbor. Moorings for rent, launch service, showers and laundry. Walk to foodstore and restaurants. Harbor shuttle across to Newport. More peaceful than craziness of Newport. Martha's Vineyard - we were disappointed with available moorings. The best we found were in Vineyard Haven. Services not great, and serious wakes from car-ferries. Still, the Vineyard is a must-see. Rent a Jeep. Go to the Jaws locations. Block Island - Great Salt Pond. Rather than scramble for town moorings, we would book a slip at Champlin's Marina. In reality, you're likely rafted, and it gets very congested with powerboats at weekends. Still, it is a fun experience. Decent pool, bars, takeout pizza, cinema (for kids), all without leaving the marina. And then of course there's Block to explore! Rent bikes. Great beaches. Cuttyhunk is our favorite destination. If you get there on time, there are town moorings in the inner harbor. Otherwise, plenty of moorings available outside, but with more wave action. Beautiful island. No cars, one small restaurant, boat goes around each evening selling fresh shellfish and lobsters. Great beaches (at harbor entrance, and over the bar at the far side). Channel can be tricky, so be careful. Last time we were there, we watched another sailboat solidly aground on a falling tide. No fun. Cape Cod Canal is a beautiful ride. Make sure to time your transits with the tides. Some serious wave action on the southern entrance - you'll be surfing in, then it gets flat. Sandwich Marina is a decent stop at the northern exit from the CCC. showers, food-store nearby, decent restaurants. Feel free to discuss more offline. damian.gre...@yahoo.com Damian GreeneCC 34 GHOSTBass Harbor, Maine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
