Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much 
further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and barrier 
coating.

Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will likely be 
with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a topsides and bottom 
rework, I suggest it’s well worth doing it properly, even if you have to wait a 
year to get it done. Cosmetics can wait for money. I can tell you that my 
recent LF 38 was Awlgripped in 1992 and still, with a good annual spring 
cleanup and polish, the flag blue hull looks excellent. There were a few 
scrapes and dings over the years that I looked after by filling and touching 
up. A new paint job would be terrific, but would only make sense if money were 
not a consideration. All this to say that a good paint job is a great way to 
go. A new gel coat job would be very expensive if done properly.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!



On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote:

Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat.



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





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Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Rich,

Are you suggesting that if a 30 year old boat hasn't blistered yet, that it
is likely to?  My thoughts/statements were twofold, assess exactly what
Danny meant by needing a bottom job and advise that if multiple layers of
bottom paint is the only concern that he could probably get away with
sand/feather/paint.  It doesn't sound like he knows exactly what type of
bottom is there right now but whatever it is it certainly seems to be
working.

Josh
On Sep 6, 2015 4:39 PM, "Knowles Rich via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much
> further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and
> barrier coating.
>
> Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will
> likely be with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a topsides and
> bottom rework, I suggest it’s well worth doing it properly, even if you
> have to wait a year to get it done. Cosmetics can wait for money. I can
> tell you that my recent LF 38 was Awlgripped in 1992 and still, with a good
> annual spring cleanup and polish, the flag blue hull looks excellent. There
> were a few scrapes and dings over the years that I looked after by filling
> and touching up. A new paint job would be terrific, but would only make
> sense if money were not a consideration. All this to say that a good paint
> job is a great way to go. A new gel coat job would be very expensive if
> done properly.
>
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless!
>
>
>
> On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat.
>
>
>
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless!
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List removing sail numbers/residue

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not sure.  Probably 3M Adhesive remover.  Check with your sail maker.

I just sprinkled baby powder on the residue on one of mine.  Problem solved!

Dennis C.

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Just got a nearly new chute off Ebay for next to nothing.  When I remove
> the numbers there is residue on the sail.  What will safely clean up the
> glue?
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List removing sail numbers/residue

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Thanks

On Sunday, September 6, 2015, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If it's a good chute, you may want to avoid harsh chemicals. Sailmakers I
> know just sprinkle baby powder on the old glue, as Dennis says.
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> andrewburtonyachtservices
> 
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Sep 6, 2015, at 17:05, Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
> Not sure.  Probably 3M Adhesive remover.  Check with your sail maker.
>
> I just sprinkled baby powder on the residue on one of mine.  Problem
> solved!
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> All,
>>
>> Just got a nearly new chute off Ebay for next to nothing.  When I remove
>> the numbers there is residue on the sail.  What will safely clean up the
>> glue?
>>
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
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>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Mast chocks - how important?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

If your mast partner is like mine, it is a cast aluminum ring which is not all 
that well machined. Thus, if your mast is moving around (and it will under 
load), your mast will rub on this rough casting. Maybe a little, maybe a lot, 
but I sure would not like to have a scuffed part of the mast where a lot of 
forces are pushing every which way.

I would suggest cutting small slits in the mast boot and insert the blocks from 
the top. Rigging tape will cover the damage. Much better to lose a mast boot 
than a mast.

Gary
30-1
Maryland
  - Original Message - 
  From: davepulaski via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: davepulaski 
  Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2015 4:05 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Mast chocks - how important?


  So I just discovered 4 shaped wood blocks waaay up under the nav table that I 
can only assume are the chocks for where the mast passes through the deck.   
Which obviously means the yard didn't put them in when they stepped the mast 
because they didn't know they existed.


  So my question is, is it a Big Deal to go sailing without them?   As in, will 
it do any damage to anything?   I'd rather not undo my nicely sealed mast boot 
and have to loosen the rig and start all over if I don't have to.


  I don't care if the rig isn't in perfect tune without them, just curious if I 
can get away with being lazy and not hurting anything in this instance.


  My mainsail should be back from the loft in a couple days and I really want 
to get out.


  What say ye?


  -Dave




--


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Re: Stus-List removing sail numbers/residue

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

If it's a good chute, you may want to avoid harsh chemicals. Sailmakers I know 
just sprinkle baby powder on the old glue, as Dennis says.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Sep 6, 2015, at 17:05, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not sure.  Probably 3M Adhesive remover.  Check with your sail maker.
> 
> I just sprinkled baby powder on the residue on one of mine.  Problem solved!
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> Just got a nearly new chute off Ebay for next to nothing.  When I remove the 
>> numbers there is residue on the sail.  What will safely clean up the glue?
>> 
>> Joel
>> 35/3
>> Annapolis
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Fuel contamination

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The problems with fuel might be many, but they fall into a few simple
categories:
 - water in the fuel (the worst kind, because it encourages the grows of
algae)
 - debris in the fuel (should filter out, but if you have plenty of that
stuff, the filters might get clogged)
 - mechanical problems with your fuel system (leaks, air leaks, pumps,
filters etc.) - but polishing fuel won't help here.

If you have no water in the fuel, there won't be any algae growth. The gooey
substance that started this discussion is the algae that growth in the fuel
tank (and eats the fuel), but it grows in the water.

Who knows what might be luring in your fuel tank, but the fact that the fuel
is 5 years old does not mean that it is necessarily bad. Use it up or, if
you have that option, pump it out and give it to the yard's tractor driver.
Obviously, newer fuel is better, but if your engine was running for a few
hours, your old fuel is not that bad.

When I bought my current boat, it had an almost full tank and the fuel was
already about 2 years old. I used it for the next two years without any
incident.

Change your fuel filters often enough (as per the normal maintenance
schedule), buy the new fuel from reputable places and don't worry too much.

Two filters (the primary 30 um and the final 2 um) should do the job.

My $0.02 (CAD)

Marek
C270, "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: September-06-15 12:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djhaug...@juno.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel contamination

Hi this issue is a concern for me as well.  Now, on the boat we're buying,
we ran the engine for probably 2 - 3 hours throughout the weekend.  Between
moving it to the lift and back during the survey and then out for a sea
trial we never shut it off and the engine ran beautifully the whole time.
My concern is that, they claim the boat never left the dock over last 5
years, the fuel in the tank registers 3/4 full, and could very well be very
old.  The surveyor showed little concern and just said to top it off and
carry extra filters.

With that information, is there anything more I could/should do regarding
fuel?  If the fuel were contaminated in some way would it have become
apparent during the time we ran the engine?

Would adding another filter assembly, in line, be a good idea?

Danny
Closing soon
MassachusettsOn Sep 6, 2015 11:55 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List
 wrote:
>
> It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning
method. Has anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter
system with a bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use
much fuel either. 
>
> It isn't complicated in theory. 
> Len 
> Crazy Legs 
> 1989 37+ 
>
> Sent from my mobile device. 
> ___ 
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Stus-List Intro / question: Line lenghts for C 30 MKI spinnaker

[Janko Puls via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

 

I am new to the list and would like to introduce our boat and me. A friend and I are sailing "Messing About", a 1980 C 30 MKI, out of Larchmnont, NY. (I take care of the boat for about seven years, when she was Kelly green and named Mistral IV, but our captain decided at 95 yo that slowly it might be enough, so he passed the helm on to us "chicks".) So it's time for some smaller updates. I love the stiffness and quick reaction of this boat. The boat is in good condition, I'd say, she has a rebuilt 2QM15 since this season, a new mast step, complete new rudder and steering system, new head, a few but updated electronics, and seems overall very healthy. No blisters, no nothing, but it wouldn't be a boat if there weren't some projects to do right?

 

10 boat projects minus 1 boat project equals 11 boat projects.

 

So this spring I did a roll and tip-job on the topsides, and leaving the quite recognizable kelly green behind us, her new colors are seattle grey with seagrass green as contrary color. (Here are some pics: http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/ais/details/ships/shipid:836084/imo:0/mmsi:913030382/vessel:MESSING%20ABOUT)

 

We have a range of sails:

- 143% genny, UK

- 100% battened jib

- a veritable mylar decksweeper which we hardly ever use, since we don't race her at this time (she was once a regular winner up in Westport, CT, as "Irish Wake")

- mainsail heavy quality, fully battened

- mainsail lighter built for racing (North Sails), half battened - to wich we just added three reffing points.

 

Now, here is my question to the community: I would like to get our spinnaker back to work - I always had it sometimers gerryrigged, and since I often singlehand or doublehand the boat, I consider getting a snuffer so that I could use the spi with shrt crew as well. BUT: I lost my uphaul and downhaul lines. Would you have any indication what lenghts of line I need here to run it back to the cockpit?

 

I also am curious to see if here are other C 30 sailors around New York or in the Western Long Island Sound to catch up with and exchange ideas or just meet up with once in a while.

 

cheers

Janko Puls

 

--
Point of View New York City: A Game of The City You THINK You Know
A photo book by Janko Puls.

+++ Photos, reviews and more at www.pointofviewnyc.com or www.facebook.com/pointofviewnyc +++

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Re: Stus-List end of my search - bottom job

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

yea, surveyor didn't say anything about blisters but did say it would be a good 
idea to soda blast barrier coat and bottom paint. sand feather and re-coat 
would certainly be an option, although I don't think the cost would be 
drastically different going the full strip, barrier coat, bottom pain route.  
but i'm going on my experience with the Viking. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: "C List" 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2015 16:06:41 -0500


Rich,
Are you suggesting that if a 30 year old boat hasn't blistered yet, that it is 
likely to?  My thoughts/statements were twofold, assess exactly what Danny 
meant by needing a bottom job and advise that if multiple layers of bottom 
paint is the only concern that he could probably get away with 
sand/feather/paint.  It doesn't sound like he knows exactly what type of bottom 
is there right now but whatever it is it certainly seems to be working.
Josh
On Sep 6, 2015 4:39 PM, "Knowles Rich via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much 
further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and barrier 
coating. Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will 
likely be with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a topsides and 
bottom rework, I suggest its well worth doing it properly, even if you 
have to wait a year to get it done. Cosmetics can wait for money. I can tell 
you that my recent LF 38 was Awlgripped in 1992 and still, with a good annual 
spring cleanup and polish, the flag blue hull looks excellent. There were a few 
scrapes and dings over the years that I looked after by filling and touching 
up. A new paint job would be terrific, but would only make sense if money were 
not a consideration. All this to say that a good paint job is a great way to 
go. A new gel coat job would be very expensive if done properly. Rich 
KnowlesNanaimo, BC
Boatless!

 
On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:
Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat.

Rich KnowlesNanaimo, BC
Boatless!





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Stus-List removing sail numbers/residue

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All,

Just got a nearly new chute off Ebay for next to nothing.  When I remove
the numbers there is residue on the sail.  What will safely clean up the
glue?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Mast chocks - how important?

[davepulaski via CnC-List]

So I just discovered 4 shaped wood blocks waaay up under the nav table that I 
can only assume are the chocks for where the mast passes through the deck.   
Which obviously means the yard didn't put them in when they stepped the mast 
because they didn't know they existed.

So my question is, is it a Big Deal to go sailing without them?   As in, will 
it do any damage to anything?   I'd rather not undo my nicely sealed mast boot 
and have to loosen the rig and start all over if I don't have to.

I don't care if the rig isn't in perfect tune without them, just curious if I 
can get away with being lazy and not hurting anything in this instance.

My mainsail should be back from the loft in a couple days and I really want to 
get out.

What say ye?

-Dave

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Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Juno via CnC-List]

very good points.  I guess if I just bite the bullet and do a really nice paint job now.  I won't have to worry about it again.  I'll probably end up doing that.  I know hinkley in Portsmouth pains boats and boast the best job in the industry but, I can't imagine what that would cost...
I've heard a ballpark price of $350 to $375/ft from another place on the topsides painting alone and 6-8k fur a complete bottom job...
DJH
On "Dennis C. via CnC-List" , Sep 6, 2015 3:06 PM wrote:I can see trying to save $$ on a bottom job.  However, topsides paint is a different story.  I would want a really good paint job even if I had to pay more.  The topsides is what people see.  The numerous positive comments on Touche's topside paint very much ease the pain I felt in my wallet.  :)  More than one person has told me Touche' has the best paint job in the mariina.  Several have asked me where I had it done.  ((Of course, not many of them care to take their boat 160 nms to have it painted.)Dennis C.On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 1:19 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:I LOVE the sound of those prices!  I have not tackled a finish job of this magnitude before.  Repairable is definitely desirable.  For some reason I thought awlgrip wasn't that easy to repair...
 
The bottom looks to have many many years of buildup but, you're right I'm not racing nor do I plan to.
 
I just checked the yard's estimate was $3000 in the sring of 2013 and they honored the price and did the work the following off season.  They then, they gave me a 15% discount for booking early and paying a deposit.  so, I think the whole job came in around $2600 for a strip barrier coat and bottom paint.  So, by those numbers the bottom job with them could be around $3500 - $4000 all in.  I've written them for their thoughts.
 
My issue at this point is I have too much work to give me time to do all that work myself and finding helpers is never easy.  I guess I could pay some guys to help but them there is no one with the experience on the job...  Maybe I should just keep to making money at what I'm good at, and pay people that are good to do the cosmetics on the boat?
 
Danny-- Original Message --From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: "C List" Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsidesDate: Sun, 6 Sep 2015 12:52:14 -0500
So, a roll and tip job is cheap and would not be worthy of Awlgrip.   Awlcraft is the product I was suggesting for ease of repair.  You could probably DIY with a helper or two and get away for less than $1k.
If the bottom doesn't show signs of blistering then i would simply sand and feather the bottom.  You're not racing.  Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat. Again less than $1k.
Josh
On Sep 6, 2015 1:09 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote:





I had Touche' painted with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip.  Easier to blend and repair than Awlgrip.  
I sanded the topsides and had a pro shoot the paint.  Used a Hutchins Hustler straight line sander.  Took 3 coats of high build primer followed by the Awlcraft.  Looks awesome!
The sander removed all imperfections in the hull.  After 40 years, post cure shrinkage caused the pattern of the roving to show.  Now hull is perfectly smooth.
Using a disc sander requires a very steady hand and a lot of experience.  Inexperienced operators tend to rock and tilt a disc sander causing small gouges in the surface.  These gouges may be visible with very smooth shiny paints.
Dennis C.


On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 11:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:
Hi Josh!  In considering topsides to be waterline to toe rail.  I honestly would prefer gel coat.  I don't really understand the rush to paint.  Gelcoat seems to want to come back to life even after years of neglect.  I thought that, because she is painted already, I had no choice but to paint again.  Bottom has many layers of bottom paint that are peeling off.  I think she need a clean start all the way back with barrier coat.  I had this done on Lolita for around $2400 for the 2014 season, if I recall properly.  I guess that was a great price.  I think I paid 800 for sandblasting (yep they sandblasted) and then about 1600 for fixes, barrier coat and bottom paint.  I have to check my files to see how good my memory is.  I remember they gave me a 15% discount for scheduling and paying a 30% deposit.  The top sides on Lolita were painted by a PO and she was rolled and tipped and I thought she looked absolutely fine.  The hull was white.

 Maybe an inexpressive roll and tip job would be an answer to get sailing and kick the can down the road a bit...?On Sep 6, 2015 12:11 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote: > > Danny, > > When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard, area 

Re: Stus-List Mast chocks - how important?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I would say it's a big deal...unless the yard did something else instead

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 5:05 PM, davepulaski via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So I just discovered 4 shaped wood blocks waaay up under the nav table
> that I can only assume are the chocks for where the mast passes through the
> deck.   Which obviously means the yard didn't put them in when they stepped
> the mast because they didn't know they existed.
>
> So my question is, is it a Big Deal to go sailing without them?   As in,
> will it do any damage to anything?   I'd rather not undo my nicely sealed
> mast boot and have to loosen the rig and start all over if I don't have to.
>
> I don't care if the rig isn't in perfect tune without them, just curious
> if I can get away with being lazy and not hurting anything in this instance.
>
> My mainsail should be back from the loft in a couple days and I really
> want to get out.
>
> What say ye?
>
> -Dave
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List end of my search

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Congratulations. There’s one sitting in my slip at my house right now. It’s 
owned by a Norwegian couple that have spent three (winter) seasons in the 
Bahamas on it. They’re currently prepping to do do it again with a stop in NYC 
before heading South.

They’re planning on stopping back at our place on the way down and I’ll 
probably be crewing on the leg from the Chesapeake to Charleston, outside. Big, 
sturdy boat and all set up for offshore work, including a nice wind vane. Which 
I know absolutely nothing about..

If I were home I’d walk down and take a picture and send it to you but it will 
be gone by the time I get back.

Cheers,
Dave in BCN

> On Sep 4, 2015, at 11:05 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> OK all.  It's looking like we're going to be proud owners of a 1985 tartan 
> 40.  Survey went well we have come to terms on price, AND I had absolutely no 
> problem with financing a 30 year old boat.  All there is to do now is 
> finalize paperwork and the yard down there is taking care of a few things for 
> me!
> 
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List end of my search

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Danny,

If you decide to recondition your hull surfaces I would suggest, per Josh and 
Dennis, using AwlCraft 2000 or something similar for the reasons that they 
state, ease of repair. It’s softer than AwlGrip but repairable. My 
understanding is that you should get 10 years without having to re-paint but 
I’m guessing, having a similar paint on my old Mako 261, that it will look nice 
far longer than that before having to start compounding and polishing.

I’ve never heard of anyone re-applying gelcoat to a hull but that’s probably 
just my lack of exposure to other hull covering methods. My experience is that 
gelcoat is only going “look” nice for 2-4 years before starting to fade and 
chalk. Especially if it is a darker color. Many of the newer, very expensive 
boats come painted from the factory. Paint looks better, is easier to maintain 
and lasts longer IMHO. That said, if you were to start the compound/polish 
process on your existing gelcoat, working up through the grits you can get a 
pretty nice looking hull. The wax will last about half a sailing season and 
you’ll need to redo the same process every spring.

Which is one reason why I, or rather, my complaining shoulder sockets, decided 
to paint the hull with AwlCraft 2000 this year.

If you decide to paint, get some quotes and have them describe exactly what 
they will do for the amount quoted. I think that for anything less than $15,000 
to paint a 40’ hull, you’ll be getting a pretty quick and basic paint job. Most 
likely the yard will do a quick sanding of the surface and a few minor repairs 
before shooting. My paint job, which included some repairs but a great deal of 
sanding and board filing, raised boot stripes and a shear-stripe in a different 
color was at the quote mentioned above. I will say that for that price I got a 
“Hinckley” quality hull job.

When it comes to deck painting, even though I already knew the answer, when I 
asked the yard about doing mine they were quick to reply, “No way…”. They just 
can’t make any money on that sort of job. From my discussions with the painter 
and my on-going experience, it could rise to be three times the amount to 
complete. My boat would NEED to be a Hinckley in order to justify that expense.

So, not to be troubled with actually sailing my boat, I embarked on a journey 
to paint my decks. A big project but I’ve never been smart enough not to take 
on a fool’s errand. Like Dennis mentioned, sanding technique is key. After 
sanding and repair work, I’ll be spraying Awlgrip’s 545 epoxy primer. This will 
cover sanding marks down to 80-grit. I’m going to shoot the decks with AwlCraft 
2000. I’m looking forward to it but if that is something that is too daunting, 
roll-and-tip is a good way to go. Using a white’ish color will help with the 
look of the final job. Don’t forget to take into account that you will most 
likely need to redo the non-skid.

As far as bottom work goes, I’m not finished with that but I had my bottom 
blasted for $1,200 last Fall. The rest of the work when done will be charged at 
my yard rate of $0.00/hour so it shouldn’t break the bank...

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Sep 6, 2015, at 6:43 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Josh!
> 
> In considering topsides to be waterline to toe rail.  I honestly would prefer 
> gel coat.  I don't really understand the rush to paint.  Gelcoat seems to 
> want to come back to life even after years of neglect.  I thought that, 
> because she is painted already, I had no choice but to paint again.
> 
> Bottom has many layers of bottom paint that are peeling off.  I think she 
> need a clean start all the way back with barrier coat.
> 
> I had this done on Lolita for around $2400 for the 2014 season, if I recall 
> properly.  I guess that was a great price.  I think I paid 800 for 
> sandblasting (yep they sandblasted) and then about 1600 for fixes, barrier 
> coat and bottom paint.  I have to check my files to see how good my memory 
> is.  I remember they gave me a 15% discount for scheduling and paying a 30% 
> deposit.
> 
> The top sides on Lolita were painted by a PO and she was rolled and tipped 
> and I thought she looked absolutely fine.  The hull was white.
> 
> Maybe an inexpressive roll and tip job would be an answer to get sailing and 
> kick the can down the road a bit...?On Sep 6, 2015 12:11 PM, Josh Muckley via 
> CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> Danny,
>> 
>> When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard, area 
>> between the water and toe rail)?  Or are you talking about the deck 
>> (everything above the toe rail)?  Either way you're probably looking at the 
>> better part of $10k.
>> 
>> For hull/freeboard paint I suggest that  avoid the original Awlgrip (color 
>> and clear coat in one shot) since blending a repair is such a challenge and 
>> 

Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

So, a roll and tip job is cheap and would not be worthy of Awlgrip.
Awlcraft is the product I was suggesting for ease of repair.  You could
probably DIY with a helper or two and get away for less than $1k.

If the bottom doesn't show signs of blistering then i would simply sand and
feather the bottom.  You're not racing.  Wait for blistering to soda or ice
blast and new barrier coat. Again less than $1k.

Josh
On Sep 6, 2015 1:09 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I had Touche' painted with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip.  Easier to blend
> and repair than Awlgrip.
>
> I sanded the topsides and had a pro shoot the paint.  Used a Hutchins
> Hustler straight line sander.  Took 3 coats of high build primer followed
> by the Awlcraft.  Looks awesome!
>
> The sander removed all imperfections in the hull.  After 40 years, post
> cure shrinkage caused the pattern of the roving to show.  Now hull is
> perfectly smooth.
>
> Using a disc sander requires a very steady hand and a lot of experience.
> Inexperienced operators tend to rock and tilt a disc sander causing small
> gouges in the surface.  These gouges may be visible with very smooth shiny
> paints.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 11:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Josh!
>>
>> In considering topsides to be waterline to toe rail.  I honestly would
>> prefer gel coat.  I don't really understand the rush to paint.  Gelcoat
>> seems to want to come back to life even after years of neglect.  I thought
>> that, because she is painted already, I had no choice but to paint again.
>>
>> Bottom has many layers of bottom paint that are peeling off.  I think she
>> need a clean start all the way back with barrier coat.
>>
>> I had this done on Lolita for around $2400 for the 2014 season, if I
>> recall properly.  I guess that was a great price.  I think I paid 800 for
>> sandblasting (yep they sandblasted) and then about 1600 for fixes, barrier
>> coat and bottom paint.  I have to check my files to see how good my memory
>> is.  I remember they gave me a 15% discount for scheduling and paying a 30%
>> deposit.
>>
>> The top sides on Lolita were painted by a PO and she was rolled and
>> tipped and I thought she looked absolutely fine.  The hull was white.
>>
>> Maybe an inexpressive roll and tip job would be an answer to get sailing
>> and kick the can down the road a bit...?On Sep 6, 2015 12:11 PM, Josh
>> Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:
>> >
>> > Danny,
>> >
>> > When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard,
>> area between the water and toe rail)?  Or are you talking about the deck
>> (everything above the toe rail)?  Either way you're probably looking at the
>> better part of $10k.
>> >
>> > For hull/freeboard paint I suggest that  avoid the original Awlgrip
>> (color and clear coat in one shot) since blending a repair is such a
>> challenge and costly.  The newer Awlgrip 2000 is easier to blend and repair
>> and for boats of this age is glossy enough despite not being a color and
>> clear coat combo... Just glossy color.  Either way you will want to follow
>> the manufacturers care instructions closely.  You might want to make sure
>> your discussion includes re-gelcoating as an alternative to paint.  Many
>> people discount this as an option but it is one you might not have
>> considered.  The PO had mine partially re-gelcoated and I'm happy with it's
>> appearance and it's care is "normal".  Wash, polish, wax.
>> >
>> > When you say it needs a bottom job, what degree of bottom are you
>> referring to.  Just a haul, block, and wash with a sand and paint is gonna
>> be about $1k.  If you soda blast (or dry ice blast) then you're probably
>> gonna need a least a little fill and fare and then probably a barrier coat
>> and bottom paint which is also gonna push you close to $10k.  If you get
>> into remediation such as smile and blister repair then you're almost
>> guaranteed $10k+
>> >
>> > Josh Muckley
>> > S/V Sea Hawk
>> > 1989 C 37+
>> > Solomons, MD
>> >
>> > On Sep 6, 2015 11:21 AM, "Juno via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Hi Dave, thanks!  I've read just about every article on this model and
>> have been laying after one but I never thought all the stars would EVER
>> align enough to actually own one!
>> >>
>> >> the wife is not overly enthused about the dark wood interior but she
>> couldn't deny the exceptional value of this particular boat.  I've got some
>> work to do, mostly cosmetic, to make her as beautiful as she should be.
>> the biggest issue is topside paint.  It has an awlgrip job thats peeling
>> terribly.  the surveyor was trying to convince me to do it myself and go
>> with white fur more forgiveness.  I don't think I'd like to take on a job
>> like that.  It seems to big for one guy to on his own.  I guess if I had it
>> inside in my back yard all winter I might give it a shot.
>> >>
>> >> It's also 

Re: Stus-List Fuel contamination

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I like this idea Doug.  It is similar to one that I have had but not
implemented.  I do have a small 12v fuel pump and have used it to "turn
over"  the fuel.  I ran hose from the outlet of the racor to the pump and
then hose out the window to the fuel fill port on deck.  Used and "filter
funnel" at the fill port to try and scrub water from the fuel.  When I was
done I changed the racor.  In theory I'd like to do this annually as part
of the end of season maintenance.  Since i have not had trouble and did not
have any surprises with the filter funnel it has become low priority and
perceived as overkill.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 6, 2015 12:21 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
wrote:

> On Pegasus I have a system that alows me to pump fuel through my filters,
> then back to the tank. Not sure I would call it a fuel polisher. I put it
> in after spending a hour trying to bleed the filters while under way. I
> have a valve before the engine andafter the filters, and one that allows
> fuel to return to the tank. For pumping I installed a small electric pump.
> I also installed a canister Racor filter after the Racor 500. The 500 is
> 30micron and the other is 2micron.
>
> If you want a picture or more information email me, to hard to post a
> decent picture here.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Mitchell's via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Sun, Sep 6, 2015 08:56
>
> *To: *CNC List;
>
> *Cc: *Mitchell's;
>
> *Subject:*Stus-List Fuel contamination
>
>
> It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning method. 
> Has anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter system 
> with a bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use much fuel 
> either. It isn't complicated in theory. LenCrazy Legs1989 37+Sent from my 
> mobile device.___Email 
> address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including 
> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
> at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I had Touche' painted with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip.  Easier to blend
and repair than Awlgrip.

I sanded the topsides and had a pro shoot the paint.  Used a Hutchins
Hustler straight line sander.  Took 3 coats of high build primer followed
by the Awlcraft.  Looks awesome!

The sander removed all imperfections in the hull.  After 40 years, post
cure shrinkage caused the pattern of the roving to show.  Now hull is
perfectly smooth.

Using a disc sander requires a very steady hand and a lot of experience.
Inexperienced operators tend to rock and tilt a disc sander causing small
gouges in the surface.  These gouges may be visible with very smooth shiny
paints.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 11:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh!
>
> In considering topsides to be waterline to toe rail.  I honestly would
> prefer gel coat.  I don't really understand the rush to paint.  Gelcoat
> seems to want to come back to life even after years of neglect.  I thought
> that, because she is painted already, I had no choice but to paint again.
>
> Bottom has many layers of bottom paint that are peeling off.  I think she
> need a clean start all the way back with barrier coat.
>
> I had this done on Lolita for around $2400 for the 2014 season, if I
> recall properly.  I guess that was a great price.  I think I paid 800 for
> sandblasting (yep they sandblasted) and then about 1600 for fixes, barrier
> coat and bottom paint.  I have to check my files to see how good my memory
> is.  I remember they gave me a 15% discount for scheduling and paying a 30%
> deposit.
>
> The top sides on Lolita were painted by a PO and she was rolled and tipped
> and I thought she looked absolutely fine.  The hull was white.
>
> Maybe an inexpressive roll and tip job would be an answer to get sailing
> and kick the can down the road a bit...?On Sep 6, 2015 12:11 PM, Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:
> >
> > Danny,
> >
> > When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard,
> area between the water and toe rail)?  Or are you talking about the deck
> (everything above the toe rail)?  Either way you're probably looking at the
> better part of $10k.
> >
> > For hull/freeboard paint I suggest that  avoid the original Awlgrip
> (color and clear coat in one shot) since blending a repair is such a
> challenge and costly.  The newer Awlgrip 2000 is easier to blend and repair
> and for boats of this age is glossy enough despite not being a color and
> clear coat combo... Just glossy color.  Either way you will want to follow
> the manufacturers care instructions closely.  You might want to make sure
> your discussion includes re-gelcoating as an alternative to paint.  Many
> people discount this as an option but it is one you might not have
> considered.  The PO had mine partially re-gelcoated and I'm happy with it's
> appearance and it's care is "normal".  Wash, polish, wax.
> >
> > When you say it needs a bottom job, what degree of bottom are you
> referring to.  Just a haul, block, and wash with a sand and paint is gonna
> be about $1k.  If you soda blast (or dry ice blast) then you're probably
> gonna need a least a little fill and fare and then probably a barrier coat
> and bottom paint which is also gonna push you close to $10k.  If you get
> into remediation such as smile and blister repair then you're almost
> guaranteed $10k+
> >
> > Josh Muckley
> > S/V Sea Hawk
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> >
> > On Sep 6, 2015 11:21 AM, "Juno via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Dave, thanks!  I've read just about every article on this model and
> have been laying after one but I never thought all the stars would EVER
> align enough to actually own one!
> >>
> >> the wife is not overly enthused about the dark wood interior but she
> couldn't deny the exceptional value of this particular boat.  I've got some
> work to do, mostly cosmetic, to make her as beautiful as she should be.
> the biggest issue is topside paint.  It has an awlgrip job thats peeling
> terribly.  the surveyor was trying to convince me to do it myself and go
> with white fur more forgiveness.  I don't think I'd like to take on a job
> like that.  It seems to big for one guy to on his own.  I guess if I had it
> inside in my back yard all winter I might give it a shot.
> >>
> >> It's also in need of a bottom job.  this will be my 3rd boat in
> desperate need of a bottom job.  I'm going to try and have those 2 things
> done over this winter if I can get a reasonable price.
> >>
> >> does anyone have any idea what I might expect to pay for top sides and
> bottom job?
> >>
> >> geeze, I hope you guys don't mind me staying apart of the group now...
> lol. I'd be lost without you all!
> >>
> >> Danny
> >> closing soon!
> >> Massachusetts
> >>
> >> DJH
> >>
> >> On Dave Godwin , Sep 6, 2015 4:41 AM wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Congratulations. There’s one sitting in my slip at 

Re: Stus-List Fuel contamination

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I would carry extra filters, and fill with fresh fuel.
Pegasus sat for a couple of years when I bought her. I didn't have any
issues with the fuel until I got into rough water, and stired up the fuel.
Now I change the filters once a year and have no issues.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
Just west of Ballard, WA

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 9:21 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi this issue is a concern for me as well.  Now, on the boat we're buying,
> we ran the engine for probably 2 - 3 hours throughout the weekend.  Between
> moving it to the lift and back during the survey and then out for a sea
> trial we never shut it off and the engine ran beautifully the whole time.
> My concern is that, they claim the boat never left the dock over last 5
> years, the fuel in the tank registers 3/4 full, and could very well be very
> old.  The surveyor showed little concern and just said to top it off and
> carry extra filters.
>
> With that information, is there anything more I could/should do regarding
> fuel?  If the fuel were contaminated in some way would it have become
> apparent during the time we ran the engine?
>
> Would adding another filter assembly, in line, be a good idea?
>
> Danny
> Closing soon
> MassachusettsOn Sep 6, 2015 11:55 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning
> method. Has anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter
> system with a bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use
> much fuel either.
> >
> > It isn't complicated in theory.
> > Len
> > Crazy Legs
> > 1989 37+
> >
> > Sent from my mobile device.
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
> >
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List end of my search

[Juno via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, thanks!  I've read just about every article on this model and have been laying after one but I never thought all the stars would EVER align enough to actually own one!  
the wife is not overly enthused about the dark wood interior but she couldn't deny the exceptional value of this particular boat.  I've got some work to do, mostly cosmetic, to make her as beautiful as she should be.  the biggest issue is topside paint.  It has an awlgrip job thats peeling terribly.  the surveyor was trying to convince me to do it myself and go with white fur more forgiveness.  I don't think I'd like to take on a job like that.  It seems to big for one guy to on his own.  I guess if I had it inside in my back yard all winter I might give it a shot.
It's also in need of a bottom job.  this will be my 3rd boat in desperate need of a bottom job.  I'm going to try and have those 2 things done over this winter if I can get a reasonable price.
does anyone have any idea what I might expect to pay for top sides and bottom job?
geeze, I hope you guys don't mind me staying apart of the group now...  lol. I'd be lost without you all!
Danny
closing soon!
Massachusetts
DJH
On Dave Godwin , Sep 6, 2015 4:41 AM wrote:Congratulations. There’s one sitting in my slip at my house right now. It’s owned by a Norwegian couple that have spent three (winter) seasons in the Bahamas on it. They’re currently prepping to do do it again with a stop in NYC before heading South.

They’re planning on stopping back at our place on the way down and I’ll probably be crewing on the leg from the Chesapeake to Charleston, outside. Big, sturdy boat and all set up for offshore work, including a nice wind vane. Which I know absolutely nothing about..

If I were home I’d walk down and take a picture and send it to you but it will be gone by the time I get back.

Cheers,
Dave in BCN

> On Sep 4, 2015, at 11:05 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> OK all.  It's looking like we're going to be proud owners of a 1985 tartan 40.  Survey went well we have come to terms on price, AND I had absolutely no problem with financing a 30 year old boat.  All there is to do now is finalize paperwork and the yard down there is taking care of a few things for me!
> 
> 
> 



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Stus-List Fuel contamination

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning method. Has 
anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter system with a 
bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use much fuel either. 

It isn't complicated in theory. 
Len
Crazy Legs
1989 37+

Sent from my mobile device.
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Re: Stus-List end of my search

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Danny,

When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard, area
between the water and toe rail)?  Or are you talking about the deck
(everything above the toe rail)?  Either way you're probably looking at the
better part of $10k.

For hull/freeboard paint I suggest that  avoid the original Awlgrip (color
and clear coat in one shot) since blending a repair is such a challenge and
costly.  The newer Awlgrip 2000 is easier to blend and repair and for boats
of this age is glossy enough despite not being a color and clear coat
combo... Just glossy color.  Either way you will want to follow the
manufacturers care instructions closely.  You might want to make sure your
discussion includes re-gelcoating as an alternative to paint.  Many people
discount this as an option but it is one you might not have considered.
The PO had mine partially re-gelcoated and I'm happy with it's appearance
and it's care is "normal".  Wash, polish, wax.

When you say it needs a bottom job, what degree of bottom are you referring
to.  Just a haul, block, and wash with a sand and paint is gonna be about
$1k.  If you soda blast (or dry ice blast) then you're probably gonna need
a least a little fill and fare and then probably a barrier coat and bottom
paint which is also gonna push you close to $10k.  If you get into
remediation such as smile and blister repair then you're almost guaranteed
$10k+

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 6, 2015 11:21 AM, "Juno via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Hi Dave, thanks!  I've read just about every article on this model and
> have been laying after one but I never thought all the stars would EVER
> align enough to actually own one!
>
> the wife is not overly enthused about the dark wood interior but she
> couldn't deny the exceptional value of this particular boat.  I've got some
> work to do, mostly cosmetic, to make her as beautiful as she should be.
> the biggest issue is topside paint.  It has an awlgrip job thats peeling
> terribly.  the surveyor was trying to convince me to do it myself and go
> with white fur more forgiveness.  I don't think I'd like to take on a job
> like that.  It seems to big for one guy to on his own.  I guess if I had it
> inside in my back yard all winter I might give it a shot.
>
> It's also in need of a bottom job.  this will be my 3rd boat in desperate
> need of a bottom job.  I'm going to try and have those 2 things done over
> this winter if I can get a reasonable price.
>
> does anyone have any idea what I might expect to pay for top sides and
> bottom job?
>
> geeze, I hope you guys don't mind me staying apart of the group now...
> lol. I'd be lost without you all!
>
> Danny
> closing soon!
> Massachusetts
>
> DJH
> On Dave Godwin , Sep 6, 2015 4:41 AM wrote:
>
> Congratulations. There’s one sitting in my slip at my house right now.
> It’s owned by a Norwegian couple that have spent three (winter) seasons in
> the Bahamas on it. They’re currently prepping to do do it again with a stop
> in NYC before heading South.
>
> They’re planning on stopping back at our place on the way down and I’ll
> probably be crewing on the leg from the Chesapeake to Charleston, outside.
> Big, sturdy boat and all set up for offshore work, including a nice wind
> vane. Which I know absolutely nothing about..
>
> If I were home I’d walk down and take a picture and send it to you but it
> will be gone by the time I get back.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave in BCN
>
> > On Sep 4, 2015, at 11:05 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > OK all.  It's looking like we're going to be proud owners of a 1985
> tartan 40.  Survey went well we have come to terms on price, AND I had
> absolutely no problem with financing a 30 year old boat.  All there is to
> do now is finalize paperwork and the yard down there is taking care of a
> few things for me!
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

[Juno via CnC-List]

Harry, there is a ST solution out there that is like a step better that winch mate but Less than new winches.  I was looking at them for the Viking.  if memory serves they were about $550/winch and it is a bolt on self tailing winch mate.  I'll have to search and see if I can come up with the web site.
Lolita came with winch mates and I never used them for some reason.  we just cleated off.  I can't really say why, I never really even tried to get used to them.  
DJH
On Josh Muckley via CnC-List , Sep 5, 2015 10:38 PM wrote:Harry,
3 pairs of these have come up on eBay over the last 6 months.  Do you have 32STs already?  Just want newish ones?  Spares?  I keep an active search for barient, barlow, lewmar, and self tailing.  I'll let you know if i seen any more.
I have a local machinist that re-knurls, repairs, rebuilds, and repaints them for a reasonable rate.  He can even fix broken teeth on the drum.  The pair I got on ebay had a broken piece out of the self tailer.  He built the metal up and milled it to contour the plate properly.
https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZHVtUmhnX2xFR2s/edit
I'm always looking for 28STs or 27STs...
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 
On Sep 4, 2015 4:55 PM, "Harry Hallgring via CnC-List"  wrote:Bill,EXACTLY what I'm looking for!! HarrySent from my iPhoneOn Sep 4, 2015, at 16:24, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:












On Flea Bay, nice looking Aluminum pair,

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361380512546?item=361380512546==mtr

 

No affiliation, 

 



Regards,

 

Bill Coleman



 





From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2015 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Re: Stus-List Reporting when entering Canadian waters





 

And the Governor of Wisconsin
running for the Republican presidential nomination wants to build a fence along
the USA / Canada border  ..apparently he thinks we Canucks are a big
threat to our southern neighbors...or he wants to keep you guys is.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.









On 2015-09-04 10:21 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:







Just when we thought the US Border Patrol was making things
miserable – 

 

http://www.npr.org/2015/09/01/436525751/canada-enforces-pleasure-boat-reporting-requirements

 

 

 

Actually, coming back from Canada this year the USBP were very
co-operative, I called them, they took all info on the phone as we were coming
across, I notified 8 or 9 other boats to do the same and 
USBP met us at the club and just walked over and gave me a number, and that was
it, the smoothest it has been since it started.





Canada was even easier, we had sent our boat and crew info with
help from the organizers of the race to the Canadian Border Patrol, and we just
called CANPASS with our Documentation # and they said welcome to Canada. Looks
like now It will be more complicated just crossing the imaginary line than
actually docking over there.





 







 










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Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

[Juno via CnC-List]

oops...  all that blather for nothing.  winch mate was the in between item.  I was thinking those rubber things w had on Lolita were winch mates...
don't mind me...  lol
DJH
On Josh Muckley via CnC-List , Sep 5, 2015 10:38 PM wrote:Harry,
3 pairs of these have come up on eBay over the last 6 months.  Do you have 32STs already?  Just want newish ones?  Spares?  I keep an active search for barient, barlow, lewmar, and self tailing.  I'll let you know if i seen any more.
I have a local machinist that re-knurls, repairs, rebuilds, and repaints them for a reasonable rate.  He can even fix broken teeth on the drum.  The pair I got on ebay had a broken piece out of the self tailer.  He built the metal up and milled it to contour the plate properly.
https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yZHVtUmhnX2xFR2s/edit
I'm always looking for 28STs or 27STs...
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 
On Sep 4, 2015 4:55 PM, "Harry Hallgring via CnC-List"  wrote:Bill,EXACTLY what I'm looking for!! HarrySent from my iPhoneOn Sep 4, 2015, at 16:24, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:












On Flea Bay, nice looking Aluminum pair,

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/361380512546?item=361380512546==mtr

 

No affiliation, 

 



Regards,

 

Bill Coleman



 





From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2015 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Re: Stus-List Reporting when entering Canadian waters





 

And the Governor of Wisconsin
running for the Republican presidential nomination wants to build a fence along
the USA / Canada border  ..apparently he thinks we Canucks are a big
threat to our southern neighbors...or he wants to keep you guys is.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.









On 2015-09-04 10:21 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:







Just when we thought the US Border Patrol was making things
miserable – 

 

http://www.npr.org/2015/09/01/436525751/canada-enforces-pleasure-boat-reporting-requirements

 

 

 

Actually, coming back from Canada this year the USBP were very
co-operative, I called them, they took all info on the phone as we were coming
across, I notified 8 or 9 other boats to do the same and 
USBP met us at the club and just walked over and gave me a number, and that was
it, the smoothest it has been since it started.





Canada was even easier, we had sent our boat and crew info with
help from the organizers of the race to the Canadian Border Patrol, and we just
called CANPASS with our Documentation # and they said welcome to Canada. Looks
like now It will be more complicated just crossing the imaginary line than
actually docking over there.





 







 










___ Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

 






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Re: Stus-List Fuel contamination

[svpegasus38]

On Pegasus I have a system that alows me to pump fuel through my filters, 
then back to the tank. Not sure I would call it a fuel polisher. I put it in 
after spending a hour trying to bleed the filters while under way. I have a 
valve before the engine andafter the filters, and one that allows fuel to 
return to the tank. For pumping I installed a small electric pump. I also 
installed a canister Racor filter after the Racor 500. The 500 is 30micron and 
the other is 2micron. If you want a picture or more information email me, to 
hard to post a decent picture here. 

Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Mitchell's via CnC-List Date: Sun, Sep 6, 
2015 08:56To: CNC List;Cc: Mitchell's;Subject:Stus-List Fuel contamination
It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning method. Has 
anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter system with a 
bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use much fuel either. It 
isn't complicated in theory. LenCrazy Legs1989 37+Sent from my mobile 
device.___Email 
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Re: Stus-List Fuel contamination

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi this issue is a concern for me as well.  Now, on the boat we're buying, we 
ran the engine for probably 2 - 3 hours throughout the weekend.  Between moving 
it to the lift and back during the survey and then out for a sea trial we never 
shut it off and the engine ran beautifully the whole time.  My concern is that, 
they claim the boat never left the dock over last 5 years, the fuel in the tank 
registers 3/4 full, and could very well be very old.  The surveyor showed 
little concern and just said to top it off and carry extra filters.

With that information, is there anything more I could/should do regarding fuel? 
 If the fuel were contaminated in some way would it have become apparent during 
the time we ran the engine?

Would adding another filter assembly, in line, be a good idea?

Danny
Closing soon
MassachusettsOn Sep 6, 2015 11:55 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning method. 
> Has anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter system 
> with a bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use much fuel 
> either. 
>
> It isn't complicated in theory. 
> Len 
> Crazy Legs 
> 1989 37+ 
>
> Sent from my mobile device. 
> ___ 
>
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at: 
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List end of my search

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Josh!

In considering topsides to be waterline to toe rail.  I honestly would prefer 
gel coat.  I don't really understand the rush to paint.  Gelcoat seems to want 
to come back to life even after years of neglect.  I thought that, because she 
is painted already, I had no choice but to paint again.

Bottom has many layers of bottom paint that are peeling off.  I think she need 
a clean start all the way back with barrier coat.

I had this done on Lolita for around $2400 for the 2014 season, if I recall 
properly.  I guess that was a great price.  I think I paid 800 for sandblasting 
(yep they sandblasted) and then about 1600 for fixes, barrier coat and bottom 
paint.  I have to check my files to see how good my memory is.  I remember they 
gave me a 15% discount for scheduling and paying a 30% deposit.

The top sides on Lolita were painted by a PO and she was rolled and tipped and 
I thought she looked absolutely fine.  The hull was white.

Maybe an inexpressive roll and tip job would be an answer to get sailing and 
kick the can down the road a bit...?On Sep 6, 2015 12:11 PM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Danny,
>
> When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard, area 
> between the water and toe rail)?  Or are you talking about the deck 
> (everything above the toe rail)?  Either way you're probably looking at the 
> better part of $10k.
>
> For hull/freeboard paint I suggest that  avoid the original Awlgrip (color 
> and clear coat in one shot) since blending a repair is such a challenge and 
> costly.  The newer Awlgrip 2000 is easier to blend and repair and for boats 
> of this age is glossy enough despite not being a color and clear coat 
> combo... Just glossy color.  Either way you will want to follow the 
> manufacturers care instructions closely.  You might want to make sure your 
> discussion includes re-gelcoating as an alternative to paint.  Many people 
> discount this as an option but it is one you might not have considered.  The 
> PO had mine partially re-gelcoated and I'm happy with it's appearance and 
> it's care is "normal".  Wash, polish, wax.
>
> When you say it needs a bottom job, what degree of bottom are you referring 
> to.  Just a haul, block, and wash with a sand and paint is gonna be about 
> $1k.  If you soda blast (or dry ice blast) then you're probably gonna need a 
> least a little fill and fare and then probably a barrier coat and bottom 
> paint which is also gonna push you close to $10k.  If you get into 
> remediation such as smile and blister repair then you're almost guaranteed 
> $10k+
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sep 6, 2015 11:21 AM, "Juno via CnC-List"  wrote:
>>
>> Hi Dave, thanks!  I've read just about every article on this model and have 
>> been laying after one but I never thought all the stars would EVER align 
>> enough to actually own one! 
>>
>> the wife is not overly enthused about the dark wood interior but she 
>> couldn't deny the exceptional value of this particular boat.  I've got some 
>> work to do, mostly cosmetic, to make her as beautiful as she should be.  the 
>> biggest issue is topside paint.  It has an awlgrip job thats peeling 
>> terribly.  the surveyor was trying to convince me to do it myself and go 
>> with white fur more forgiveness.  I don't think I'd like to take on a job 
>> like that.  It seems to big for one guy to on his own.  I guess if I had it 
>> inside in my back yard all winter I might give it a shot.
>>
>> It's also in need of a bottom job.  this will be my 3rd boat in desperate 
>> need of a bottom job.  I'm going to try and have those 2 things done over 
>> this winter if I can get a reasonable price.
>>
>> does anyone have any idea what I might expect to pay for top sides and 
>> bottom job?
>>
>> geeze, I hope you guys don't mind me staying apart of the group now...  lol. 
>> I'd be lost without you all!
>>
>> Danny
>> closing soon!
>> Massachusetts
>>
>> DJH
>>
>> On Dave Godwin , Sep 6, 2015 4:41 AM wrote:
>>>
>>> Congratulations. There’s one sitting in my slip at my house right now. It’s 
>>> owned by a Norwegian couple that have spent three (winter) seasons in the 
>>> Bahamas on it. They’re currently prepping to do do it again with a stop in 
>>> NYC before heading South. 
>>>
>>> They’re planning on stopping back at our place on the way down and I’ll 
>>> probably be crewing on the leg from the Chesapeake to Charleston, outside. 
>>> Big, sturdy boat and all set up for offshore work, including a nice wind 
>>> vane. Which I know absolutely nothing about.. 
>>>
>>> If I were home I’d walk down and take a picture and send it to you but it 
>>> will be gone by the time I get back. 
>>>
>>> Cheers, 
>>> Dave in BCN 
>>>
>>> > On Sep 4, 2015, at 11:05 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>> >  wrote: 
>>> > 
>>> > OK all.  It's looking like we're going to be 

Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I can see trying to save $$ on a bottom job.  However, topsides paint is a
different story.  I would want a really good paint job even if I had to pay
more.  The topsides is what people see.  The numerous positive comments on
Touche's topside paint very much ease the pain I felt in my wallet.  :)

More than one person has told me Touche' has the best paint job in the
mariina.  Several have asked me where I had it done.  ((Of course, not many
of them care to take their boat 160 nms to have it painted.)

Dennis C.

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 1:19 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I LOVE the sound of those prices!  I have not tackled a finish job of this
> magnitude before.  Repairable is definitely desirable.  For some reason I
> thought awlgrip wasn't that easy to repair...
>
> The bottom looks to have many many years of buildup but, you're right I'm
> not racing nor do I plan to.
>
> I just checked the yard's estimate was $3000 in the sring of 2013 and they
> honored the price and did the work the following off season.  They then,
> they gave me a 15% discount for booking early and paying a deposit.  so, I
> think the whole job came in around $2600 for a strip barrier coat and
> bottom paint.  So, by those numbers the bottom job with them could be
> around $3500 - $4000 all in.  I've written them for their thoughts.
>
> My issue at this point is I have too much work to give me time to do all
> that work myself and finding helpers is never easy.  I guess I could pay
> some guys to help but them there is no one with the experience on the
> job...  Maybe I should just keep to making money at what I'm good at, and
> pay people that are good to do the cosmetics on the boat?
>
> Danny
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides
> Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2015 12:52:14 -0500
>
> So, a roll and tip job is cheap and would not be worthy of Awlgrip.
> Awlcraft is the product I was suggesting for ease of repair.  You could
> probably DIY with a helper or two and get away for less than $1k.
>
> If the bottom doesn't show signs of blistering then i would simply sand
> and feather the bottom.  You're not racing.  Wait for blistering to soda or
> ice blast and new barrier coat. Again less than $1k.
>
> Josh
> On Sep 6, 2015 1:09 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I had Touche' painted with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip.  Easier to blend
>> and repair than Awlgrip.
>>
>> I sanded the topsides and had a pro shoot the paint.  Used a Hutchins
>> Hustler straight line sander.  Took 3 coats of high build primer followed
>> by the Awlcraft.  Looks awesome!
>>
>> The sander removed all imperfections in the hull.  After 40 years, post
>> cure shrinkage caused the pattern of the roving to show.  Now hull is
>> perfectly smooth.
>>
>> Using a disc sander requires a very steady hand and a lot of experience.
>> Inexperienced operators tend to rock and tilt a disc sander causing small
>> gouges in the surface.  These gouges may be visible with very smooth shiny
>> paints.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 11:43 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Josh!
>>>
>>> In considering topsides to be waterline to toe rail.  I honestly would
>>> prefer gel coat.  I don't really understand the rush to paint.  Gelcoat
>>> seems to want to come back to life even after years of neglect.  I thought
>>> that, because she is painted already, I had no choice but to paint again.
>>>
>>> Bottom has many layers of bottom paint that are peeling off.  I think
>>> she need a clean start all the way back with barrier coat.
>>>
>>> I had this done on Lolita for around $2400 for the 2014 season, if I
>>> recall properly.  I guess that was a great price.  I think I paid 800 for
>>> sandblasting (yep they sandblasted) and then about 1600 for fixes, barrier
>>> coat and bottom paint.  I have to check my files to see how good my memory
>>> is.  I remember they gave me a 15% discount for scheduling and paying a 30%
>>> deposit.
>>>
>>> The top sides on Lolita were painted by a PO and she was rolled and
>>> tipped and I thought she looked absolutely fine.  The hull was white.
>>>
>>> Maybe an inexpressive roll and tip job would be an answer to get sailing
>>> and kick the can down the road a bit...?On Sep 6, 2015 12:11 PM, Josh
>>> Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Danny,
>>> >
>>> > When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard,
>>> area between the water and toe rail)?  Or are you talking about the deck
>>> (everything above the toe rail)?  Either way you're probably looking at the
>>> better part of $10k.
>>> >
>>> > For hull/freeboard paint I suggest that  avoid the original Awlgrip
>>> (color and clear coat in one