Re: Stus-List Venetian parade

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

We do Christmas ships every year and usually go out about 5 nights per
season. I have a cheapish 500 watt (peak) Stanley inverter wired directly
to one of my house battery's with a flat wire plug and about a 18" lead
with an inline fuse of course. We run all LEDs. On our 30-2 we run lights
up the mast, zipped around the toe rail, and looped around the lifelines.
Total light length is 200'. I haven't added up the accumulated but suspect
I nave room for more. First year I used or cigarette lighter at the nav
station with no issues, but we've added lights and feel better about the
direct connection. Someone can shout me down about the assymetric load on
my house bank of (2) group 27s.

The parade is quite fun for friends and colleagues. Quite a bit of
work/concentration for the skipper and occasionally hard on the boat
depending on the debris load in the river... If you boat on one.
Incidentally, many people used generators when we started. Very few have
them anymore.

Kevin
Osprey
30-2 Portland

On Sat, Dec 19, 2015, 10:26 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'd have to look but I think it's something like a 100 amp fuse.  I think
> the wires are something like 2 or 4 AWG. I know the cables are substantial
> and I had to locate the inverter for minimum wire run, like under 10 feet
> total.  I did the calculations using the Blue Sea app.
>
> DIY's are usually surprised when they start sizing cables for the 12 VDC
> side of an inverter install.
>
> I'm helping a buddy with a 2000W inverter install.  We're using 2AWG
> cables with a wire run under 4 feet total.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 19, 2015 at 11:08 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dennis,
>>
>>
>>
>> If you were pulling 830 watts from the inverter, that’s 69 amps @ 12
>> volts!  How big a fuse do you have on your inverter?  My 600 watt inverter
>> uses a 50 amp fuse.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Venetian parade - now inverters

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I agree that charging laptops and cell phones is usually better done with a 12 
volt charger for the device in question than an inverter. By “appliance” I 
thought you meant things like vacuums, blenders, drills, etc. My boat computer 
has a 12 volt charger and so does my phone. The computer actually can run on 
straight 12 volts with no charger at all, but it won’t charge the internal 
battery. It needs about 16-18 volts for that. Inverters have two different 
efficiency issues to keep in mind. One is conversion efficiency and the other 
is idling power consumption. My big 1200 watt inverter draws about 0.8-0.9 amps 
just doing nothing. This is fine when I am doing something that draws 50-80 
amps on the DC side, but it would be terrible if left on for charging a phone 
or running a laptop. The little inverter draws about 0.1-0.2 amps at idle, so 
it gets used for anything it can handle. My wife has a CPAP machine that needs 
to run all night and the little inverter handles that fine.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2015 4:19 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Venetian parade - now inverters

 

Easy Joe, I didn't say it was impossible to install an inverter properly and 
neither did my surveyor.  It was simply his opinion that they had serious 
potential to cause more trouble than they were worth since a proper 
installation was difficult.  In his experience he had seem quite a few fires or 
potential fires.

As for the efficiency I was referring to the inverter losses.  Folks here have 
shared their own experiences charging cell phones and laptops from inverters 
vice 12v adapters.  The inverter losses can be significant and that loss equals 
heat which is often the problem with installs.  Too much heat in a tucked away 
corner which is probably further than 4' from the batteries.

In this case, for Xmas lights, it seems that a temporary install with a clamp 
on is a perfect solution.  I don't disagree that replacing the clamps with lugs 
would probably be smart and not significantly decrease the portability.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Dec 19, 2015 12:18 PM, "Joe Della Barba via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Your surveyor is quite wrong. I have installed a number of fixed mount 
inverters ranging from 1,000  to 3,000 watts or so and the installations 
require nothing exotic, just the correct size of wire and fuse. A skilled 
marine electrician will do these installations correctly as a routine matter. 
It is large portable inverters that are dangerous. A jumper cable clamp is not 
a safe way to carry 100 amps for very long and few to none of these setups will 
have correct fusing on either the AC or DC side.

I have permanently installed 300 and 1200 watt inverters on my boat. I usually 
have the 300 watt unit switched on for charging phones, radios, and computers. 
I can throw a switch and use the 1200 watt unit for tools, hair dryers, the 
shop-vac,  or any other large load. It draws about .9 amps at idle so I don’t 
use it routinely. I bought a hydraulic wire crimper from Harbor Freight to get 
all the battery cable crimps done right and it was an easy job making up all 
the wiring. I got a Kisae auto-switch from West to switch the outlets over from 
shore power to inverter when the shore power is turned off and then back again 
when it comes on.

As for 12 volt appliances, most of them are much more expensive than the 120 
volt version and by definition cannot be more efficient if they have the same 
power (except for inverter loses). I did discover that my little Dirt Devil 120 
volt vacuum is WAY more powerful than a 12 volt car vacuum. It does use more 
power, but gets the dirt the first pass, not after 5 passes, so it evens out in 
the end.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2015 9:34 AM
To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Venetian parade

 

A clamp on inverter is temporary and more powerful than a cigarette lighter 
inverter but still considerably less powerful than a permanent installation 
type.  It has jumper cable clamps for attaching to the battery studs.  The 
following is just one example.

BESTEK 2 AC Outlets 1000W Power Inverter with Battery Clamps and Car Cigarette 
Lighter Plug 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SLDDHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_NGwDwbG6XRHSP

To my surprise, my marine surveyor actually advised against permanent 
installation style inverters.  He explained that a typical 2000w inverter can 
draw so much current that a

Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

[Ainslie via CnC-List]

I acquired 'Spirit' this past summer, so I've just gone through my first
haul-out. I examined the hull very carefully for blisters (none), and
checked the keel for the C&C smile- also none. When I went to check on her
this past week, I can now see a hair-line crack starting to appear where I
think the keel-stub is. My question is: did I just miss it on my first
inspection, or could this be a result of improper loading on the cradle, ie:
too much of the boat's weight being supported on the keel? If so, would it
help to ratchet up the support pads to relieve the weight somewhat? I'm
going to talk to the yard guys this week, but it would be good to have other
owners' thoughts. Thanks!

 

Jason Ainslie

1984 C&C 35 Mk-III "Spirit"

Bayfield YC

Bluewater, Ontario

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Re: Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Boat is supposed to sit on the keel.  The jack stands should be primarily
to hold the boat upright.  Your 35-3's keel is flat on the bottom and
should have support along the length.  For the older "shark fin" style
keels, care must be taken to place the support near the forward part of the
keel and not at the aftmost tip where it will create leverage on the joint.

One needs to be careful increasing the pressure on jack stands.  If they
are not positioned at bulkheads, they could result in deformations in the
hull.

There is much discussion on the hull/keel joints for our C&C's.  You can
search the photoalbum archives for lots of info.

Conventional wisdom says tighten the keel bolts to spec first then worry
about additional concerns later.  Torque specs for keel bolts can be found
on the photoalbum site by clicking the "Do It Yourself" button on the left
sidebar then clicking the "Keel Bolt Torque Specifications" link.  Or
follow this link:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm

A small crack in the joint is common and is usually not a major issue if no
water ingress is observed.  Many owners, including myself have, after
properly torquing the bolts, epoxied a few strips of biaxial tape or
equivalent over the joint and sailed on.  Most have not seen recurrence in
succeeding haul outs.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Ainslie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I acquired ‘Spirit’ this past summer, so I’ve just gone through my first
> haul-out. I examined the hull very carefully for blisters (none), and
> checked the keel for the C&C smile- also none. When I went to check on her
> this past week, I can now see a hair-line crack starting to appear where I
> think the keel-stub is. My question is: did I just miss it on my first
> inspection, or could this be a result of improper loading on the cradle,
> ie: too much of the boat’s weight being supported on the keel? If so, would
> it help to ratchet up the support pads to relieve the weight somewhat? I’m
> going to talk to the yard guys this week, but it would be good to have
> other owners’ thoughts. Thanks!
>
>
>
> *Jason Ainslie*
>
> *1984 C&C 35 Mk-III “Spirit”*
>
> *Bayfield YC*
>
> *Bluewater, Ontario*
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List C&C 30/1 deep and shoal draft

[Francis Tibbetts via CnC-List]

 Date: Dec. 20th, 2015
 Listers:
I have seen recently quite a bit of discussion about the difference between the 
deep and  shallow 
C&C 30/1 versions. I would like to add:
1. Some posters have found the builders published numbers to be of little use, 
when compared to their own measurements. I would agree, because boats will vary 
greatly  in draft (differing loads), if the measurement is taken from the 
flotation water line. Also many boats have had their PAINTED waterline changed 
(usually raised) over time. I would expect the DIFFERENCE between the published 
figures for deep and shallow keels to be accurate, and applicable to all boats. 
Frequently the designer (George inthe case of the 30/1) chooses the HALF LOAD 
condition for the design draft, altho' I don't know in this case. 
We are only interested in the DIFFERENCE between two boats' draft anyway.
2. Because the "smile" (bottom of the hull mould) is the same in all boats,  is 
easily found/identified , is adjacent to the keel, and is independent of plane 
of flotation/load, it can serve as a measurement point when COMPARING  keel 
depth. One can measure easily from the bottom of the smile to the bottom of the 
keel when the boat is out of the water. Since the smile does not exactly 
parallel the waterline , I would suggest the AFTER point on the smile to 
compare two boats' draft.
3. As to my own experience, I've personally designed and built a 23' and a 35' 
racing boat as well as built a 40' boat of my son's design. I currently own a 
1982 C&C 30 Mk1  (one of the few built in the Rhode Island plant, with moulds 
trucked down from NOTL, Ont.)
Francis Tibbetts
francistibbe...@hotmail.com
 
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Re: Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

The seam could be thin enough that you didn't see it until the bottom 
paint dried out and shrinkage of the paint revealed the seam. I don't 
think the weight of the boat has anything to do with it. Although some 
on the list figure they are okay as long as no water gets to the bidge, 
the real issue is whether water ever touches the keel bolts. You don;t 
want that to happen, so I recommend properly torquing the keelbolts, 
grinding and filling the immediate seam area with thickened epoxy 
(peanut butter consistency) and then wrapping the keel from about a foot 
above to about a foot below the seam with several layers of fiberglass 
bandage and epoxy. I did this over 10 years ago and it seems to be a 
very permanent fix. I've even had a few soft groundings without issue. 
My guess is that the bolts could now be removed and the epoxy/glass 
bandage would hold the keel on by itself. I do not recommend testing 
that theory, but I believe it is likely true.


In my case, the seam had been ground and filled with 5200 previously. I 
removed that with a wire wheel chucked in my drill. That left a nice and 
very rough surface for the epoxy mix I re-filled it with to mechanically 
bond.


Bill Bina

On 12/20/2015 12:25 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List wrote:

I acquired ‘Spirit’ this past summer, so I’ve just gone through my first
haul-out. I examined the hull very carefully for blisters (none), and
checked the keel for the C&C smile- also none. When I went to check on
her this past week, I can now see a hair-line crack starting to appear
where I think the keel-stub is. My question is: did I just miss it on my
first inspection, or could this be a result of improper loading on the
cradle, ie: too much of the boat’s weight being supported on the keel?
If so, would it help to ratchet up the support pads to relieve the
weight somewhat? I’m going to talk to the yard guys this week, but it
would be good to have other owners’ thoughts. Thanks!

**

*Jason Ainslie*

*1984 C&C 35 Mk-III “Spirit”*

*Bayfield YC*

*Bluewater, Ontario*



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Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of
the keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to
compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than
have to do the math all the time.

I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under
keel while others don't use any offset at all.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I use the same, depth sounder shows water depth to compare to charts.  
If I recall correctly,  in my Raymarine setup I adjusted for the depth 
of the transducer below the waterline, and since I have clear hoses on 
my cockpit drains I was able to get a decent estimate of transducer's depth.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 12/20/2015 3:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom 
of the keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I 
prefer to compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart 
plotter rather than have to do the math all the time.


I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth 
under keel while others don't use any offset at all.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I'm on the same page as you, Dennis. The depth sounder is a handy nav tool.
If it doesn't match the numbers on the chart, then I know something's wrong.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Newport, RI

On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.
>
> I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of
> the keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to
> compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than
> have to do the math all the time.
>
> I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under
> keel while others don't use any offset at all.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - Search Light ?

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

Back in February you mentioned you bought the “Marinebeam Ultra Long Range CREE 
RLT Illuminator”  as an LED search light.  How did you like using that light?   
 Though expensive, did it perform well?   Would you buy it again / recommend 
it?  

 

My < 2 year old 1 M candle search light quit this past fall and I need to 
replace it with something that works well and lasts longer than 2 years.  This 
was the 2nd such light to die on me in 4 years, and they mostly just sit  on 
board, each being used 2-3 times a season.  

 

Thanks

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I do the same as you Dennis.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 20, 2015 3:04 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.
>
> I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of
> the keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to
> compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than
> have to do the math all the time.
>
> I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under
> keel while others don't use any offset at all.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - Search Light ?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It's pretty awesome.  Definitely recommend it.

It has a very narrow beam so if you're looking for a wider beam it's not
for you.  However, the narrow beam is it's best attribute.  Very little
reflection from lifelines, rigging, etc.  My old Q-beam style light had so
much reflection it blinded me.  Had to hold it outside the lifelines or
send someone to the bow.  The Marinebeam RLT can be used fairly well from
the cockpit.

At first I thought the narrow beam would be a problem but it isn't so.
Most of what you want to find is between 0-10 feet above the water.  The
narrow beam easily finds things in that area a few hundred yards away.

Panbo liked it:

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2014/07/marinebeam_ultra_long_range_led_flashlight_tested_marinekinetix_wind_turbine_admired.html

I also bought their smaller light for the Admiral to carry in her purse:
https://store.marinebeam.com/3w-cree-xp-e-compact-led-zoom-focus-flashlight/
She has some night blindness so it comes in handy.  It works really well,
however, I don't see it as a huge improvement over similar small LED
flashlights.

I also have their LED anchor light:
https://store.marinebeam.com/utility-led-anchor-light-with-dusk-to-dawn-photocell-sensor/

They are my go to source for LED's.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA

On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:37 PM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
>
>
> Back in February you mentioned you bought the “Marinebeam Ultra Long Range
> CREE RLT Illuminator”  as an LED search light.  How did you like using that
> light?Though expensive, did it perform well?   Would you buy it again /
> recommend it?
>
>
>
> My < 2 year old 1 M candle search light quit this past fall and I need to
> replace it with something that works well and lasts longer than 2 years.
> This was the 2nd such light to die on me in 4 years, and they mostly just
> sit  on board, each being used 2-3 times a season.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Brian
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Actually, you're right, mine is measured from waterline to tranducer
location.  Duh!

Dennis C.

On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:16 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use the same, depth sounder shows water depth to compare to charts.  If
> I recall correctly,  in my Raymarine setup I adjusted for the depth of the
> transducer below the waterline, and since I have clear hoses on my cockpit
> drains I was able to get a decent estimate of transducer's depth.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
> On 12/20/2015 3:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.
>
> I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of
> the keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to
> compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than
> have to do the math all the time.
>
> I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under
> keel while others don't use any offset at all.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

You probably just didn't see it the first time. I wouldn't worry too much about 
a hairline crack. 

FYI, I read somewhere that 90% of the boat should rest on the keel and 10% on 
the stands. 12000# boat should have only 1200# on the stands. If you have 6 
stands and a bow stand that's less than 200# on each stand. Google "Brownell" 
to see a video on how they set up and adjust the stands. 




- Original Message -

From: "Ainslie via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Ainslie"  
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 12:25:33 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Starting to 'smile' 



I acquired ‘Spirit’ this past summer, so I’ve just gone through my first 
haul-out. I examined the hull very carefully for blisters (none), and checked 
the keel for the C&C smile- also none. When I went to check on her this past 
week, I can now see a hair-line crack starting to appear where I think the 
keel-stub is. My question is: did I just miss it on my first inspection, or 
could this be a result of improper loading on the cradle, ie: too much of the 
boat’s weight being supported on the keel? If so, would it help to ratchet up 
the support pads to relieve the weight somewhat? I’m going to talk to the yard 
guys this week, but it would be good to have other owners’ thoughts. Thanks! 



Jason Ainslie 

1984 C&C 35 Mk-III “Spirit” 

Bayfield YC 

Bluewater, Ontario 

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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I do the same as Neil. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:19 PM 20/12/2015, you wrote:


I do the same as you Dennis.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Dec 20, 2015 3:04 PM, "Dennis C. via 
CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the 
transducer to the bottom of the keel so the 
depth shown closely matches the charted 
depth.  I prefer to compare the depth shown on 
my instruments to the chart plotter rather than 
have to do the math all the time.Â


I know some owners use an offset so that the 
instrument shows depth under keel while others don't use any offset at all.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

The same. I used a marked pole in my slip to set the offset. I want the
depth to be the depth.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

 


I do the same as Neil. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 01:19 PM 20/12/2015, you wrote:




I do the same as you Dennis.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 







On Dec 20, 2015 3:04 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of the
keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to
compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than
have to do the math all the time.  

I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under
keel while others don't use any offset at all.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I do the same, though I measured differently. Our moorings are fairly shallow 
(about 6 ft.). I measured actual water depth at the place where the transducer 
is (using a long stick) and compared it to the reading on the depth sounder. As 
others mentioned, I prefer to see the actual depth, not how much is left under 
the keel.

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 16:26
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

 

Actually, you're right, mine is measured from waterline to tranducer location.  
Duh!

Dennis C.

 

On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 2:16 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I use the same, depth sounder shows water depth to compare to charts.  If I 
recall correctly,  in my Raymarine setup I adjusted for the depth of the 
transducer below the waterline, and since I have clear hoses on my cockpit 
drains I was able to get a decent estimate of transducer's depth.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY





On 12/20/2015 3:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of the 
keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to compare 
the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than have to do 
the math all the time.  

I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under keel 
while others don't use any offset at all.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

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Re: Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

IIRC – the MK III can have the standard “tighten the bolts” smile or a more 
serious issue with fiberglass repairs needed.

Is there a way to tell which is which?

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

 

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

Unsmiled this August with a big socket wrench ;)

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 4:34 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

 

You probably just didn't see it the first time.  I wouldn't worry too much 
about a hairline crack.  

 

FYI,  I read somewhere that 90% of the boat should rest on the keel and 10% on 
the stands.  12000# boat should have only 1200# on the stands.  If you have 6 
stands and a bow stand that's less than 200# on each stand.   Google "Brownell" 
to see a video on how they set up and adjust the stands.

 

 

 

 

  _  

From: "Ainslie via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: "Ainslie" mailto:ains...@hay.net> >
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 12:25:33 PM
Subject: Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

 

I acquired ‘Spirit’ this past summer, so I’ve just gone through my first 
haul-out. I examined the hull very carefully for blisters (none), and checked 
the keel for the C&C smile- also none. When I went to check on her this past 
week, I can now see a hair-line crack starting to appear where I think the 
keel-stub is. My question is: did I just miss it on my first inspection, or 
could this be a result of improper loading on the cradle, ie: too much of the 
boat’s weight being supported on the keel? If so, would it help to ratchet up 
the support pads to relieve the weight somewhat? I’m going to talk to the yard 
guys this week, but it would be good to have other owners’ thoughts. Thanks!

 

Jason Ainslie

1984 C&C 35 Mk-III “Spirit”

Bayfield YC

Bluewater, Ontario


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Stus-List How to attach a rigid boom vang on LF38

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I'm thinking of getting a Garhauer rigid vang. Only problem - the dang
mainsheet block lead is in the way. It's mounted on deck in the standard
location a few inches behind the mast collar, then the main sheet runs
vertically up to a boom block. If I mount the boom vang to port of the main
sheet, it'll bind / rub on a starboard broad reach (I think). Or similarly
for the other side.

How have other LF38 owners attached a rigid vang? I'm sure there are more
than just one who have made the upgrade.

Wally has some good writeups on his running rigging and moving his main
sheet padeye. But, it's not clear to me exactly how he ran the vang, and it
seems like he was unhappy with how the main sheet padeye move worked out
(it ended up being in the way). And I'm not sure if he ever installed the
rigid vang he was thinking of upgrading to.

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/mapadeye/mpad.htm

http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/runrig/pad2/pad2.htm

I know from the archives that Nick of "Parbleu!" installed a Garhauer vang,
but he didn't mention anything of changing the leads.
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2011-January/036831.html

Maybe it doesn't matter because although the mainsheet will get bent a bit
by the vang, the smooth metal won't be enough to chafe it or make trimming
difficult? Or does everyone move their main sheet padeye?

Here's a pic of the current layout:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxfHpwssU_6NY0ZoeVBpV244UDQ/view?usp=sharing

Main sheet is the red one, and the turning block immediately to stbd of it
(white line with blue/black tracers) is the current non-rigid vang attached
to the mast collar. That one binds too, but it's not too bad because the
block+shackle gets it out far enough that usually just the blocks are
hitting.

-Patrick
1984 C&C Landfall 38
Seattle, WA
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Stus-List depth sounder offset

[robert via CnC-List]

Dennis:

I use the same method as you, actual offset from the transducer to the 
bottom of the keel so the dept shown closely matches the charted depth.


As with you, I don't want to do additional math.

I think my draft is 5' 8".this Summer, I was in a situation where 
the depth instrument was reading 6' 4" .I know I was that close to 
touching bottom, I could see it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-12-20 4:03 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom 
of the keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I 
prefer to compare the depth shown on my instruments to the chart 
plotter rather than have to do the math all the time.


I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth 
under keel while others don't use any offset at all.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Winter discussions - depth sounder offset

[svpegasus38]

On Pegasus, I added a foot to the offset on the chart plotter, and read 
actual depth on the autopilot display. Mainly because I couldn't figure how to 
set the offset on the Raymarine ST70 display. But it actually works out great. 
I know the depth for anchoring and still have water under me when the 
chartplotter says zero when moving. No high tec math here. So far I haven't 
found the bottom with my keel, just the anchor. Knock on wood!. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListDate: Sun, Dec 20, 
2015 12:04To: CnClist;Cc: Dennis C.;Subject:Stus-List Winter discussions - 
depth sounder offset
Just curious what listers use for a draft offset and why.

I use the actual offset as measured from the transducer to the bottom of the 
keel so the depth shown closely matches the charted depth.  I prefer to compare 
the depth shown on my instruments to the chart plotter rather than have to do 
the math all the time.  

I know some owners use an offset so that the instrument shows depth under keel 
while others don't use any offset at all.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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